Descente du fleuve Manambolo (Madagascar)
by Randorun
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour à tous,
J’ai le projet de faire la descente de la Manambolo en mai 2018 avec 1 ami
Ces dernières années, on nous l’a déconseillé pour des raisons de sécurité :il fallait être accompagné par des gendarmes malgaches ou faire partie d’un gros tour opérateur !
Je pense avoir compris à travers mes lectures du forum qu’il faut arriver par taxi-brousse ou 4X4 jusqu’à Belobaka en passant par Tsiroanomandidy. Puis c’est à pied pour rejoindre Ankava lieu de l’embarcation
Merci de rectifier si je me trompe
Je souhaiterai que certains d’entre vous puissent me renseigner sur les guides à contacter pour faire cette partie à pied puis la descente en canoé : je pense qu’il faut que l’on soit accompagné : guide, porteur, piroguier…
2 ème question une fois arrivé à Bekopaka comment organiser notre retour sur Morondava ou sur Miandrivaza ? faut-il le prévoir ou peut-on espérer trouver un véhicule à compléter pour ce retour…
Merci de vos infos
Bien à vous
Jack
Bonjour Jack,
En effet oui, il faut se rendre à Belobaka(exactement au borne 30) puis commencer à marcher 02 jours et demi pour arriver jusqu'à Ankavandra.
De Ankavandra, il faut prévoir aussi au moins 03 jours de pirogue en fonction du profondeur de l'eau en mai normalement l'eau est encore assez profonde donc pas besoin de pousser la pirogue.
Pour l'acceuil à Bekopaka, le mieux c'est de prevoir un 4x4 venant de Morondava etant donné que de Morondava à Bekopaka il n'y a pas de taxibrousse et déjà pour se rendre aux tsingy de Bekopaka , il faut un 4x4.
S'il vous faut autres renseignements ou même un guide pour organiser votre voyage, n'hesitez pas à me contacter en privé
Cordialement
Gasilahy
Bonjour Ratovo,
Je te remercie pour ta réponse rapide et pour les détails que tu indiques.
Je ne peux pas t'envoyer de message privé car je n'ai pas suffisamment participé aux forums...
Nous espérons être sur Tana vers le 06 mai et donc commencer la descente vers le 10 ou 12 mai
Merci de me préciser si tu as l'expérience en tant que guide de cette époque.
A Bientôt
Cordialement
Jack
Bonjour Jack,
Bien sur que je connais très bien ce coin mais ici la pub c'est interdit donc je vous donne mon mail et on peut en parler en privée: williamratovo@yahoo.fr
Cordialement
bjr, il y a une navette régulière entre bekopaka et morondava à un tarif bon prix que de faire venir un 4x4 privé depuis morondava à un prix exorbitant
Et je me demande comment il va faire pour accéder aux Tsingy de Bekopaka s'il n'a pas de 4x4?
Bonsoir voisin,
Je confirme les propos de quatre-vingt. il existe une navette ( voir photo). Venant du Nord (maintirano) en TB ou occasions, j'ai pû rejoindre morondava pour un prix modique à partir de Bekopa. en fait, cette navette propos aux routards d'accéder aux Tsingy au départ de Morondava, elle retournait sur Morondava, était loin d'être pleine.
Cordialement,
loïc
Je confirme les propos de quatre-vingt. il existe une navette ( voir photo). Venant du Nord (maintirano) en TB ou occasions, j'ai pû rejoindre morondava pour un prix modique à partir de Bekopa. en fait, cette navette propos aux routards d'accéder aux Tsingy au départ de Morondava, elle retournait sur Morondava, était loin d'être pleine.
Cordialement,
loïc
Bonjour à tous,
Ces dernières années, on nous l’a déconseillé pour des raisons de sécurité :il fallait être accompagné par des gendarmes malgaches ou faire partie d’un gros tour opérateur ! Je pense avoir compris à travers mes lectures du forum qu’il faut arriver par taxi-brousse ou 4X4 jusqu’à Belobaka en passant par Tsiroanomandidy. Puis c’est à pied pour rejoindre Ankava lieu de l’embarcation.. Je souhaiterai que certains d’entre vous puissent me renseigner sur les guides à contacter pour faire cette partie à pied puis la descente en canoé : je pense qu’il faut que l’on soit accompagné : guide, porteur, piroguier… 2 ème question une fois arrivé à Bekopaka comment organiser notre retour sur Morondava ou sur Miandrivaza ? faut-il le prévoir ou peut-on espérer trouver un véhicule à compléter pour ce retour…
Je l'ai fait seul en 2016 sans pb, moins touristique donc moins de risque que la Tsiribihina effectivement tsidy, belobaka, ensuite trek chercher guide et porteurs (15000ar/jour à l'époque) à belobaka, 2 jours de marche soutenues car ils ont leurs étapes toutes faites et ne veulent pas s'arrêter avant, ça doit pouvoir se négocier... ensuite, le chemin rejoint souvent une piste très mauvaise mais qui est qd meme praticable, j'y ai vu un 4x4 d'un karana qui venait direct de tsiroanomandidy qui prend des passagers et également deux camions le deuxième jour qui allaient sur belobaka, donc si on est en petite forme, il doit y avoir moyen de se faire trimballer à akavandra il faut se faire obligatoirement enregistrer à la mairie avant la descente du fleuve tu peux le faire en pirogue traditionnelle ou avec les kayaks de mad caméléon Mme lalisy qui a un hotel a akavandra et connait des piroguiers, on me l'avait recommandée, je suis passé par claude vassil qui l'organise aussi 0345036747 (en face de mad caméléon), mais demander un guide qui parle français, monja qui m'a conduit était bien mais il était pressé et a shunté les piscines naturelles en fin de parcours, c'est ballot de faire 8500km et de passer sans s'arrêter ... ensuite pour morondava il y en a de mieux informés que moi, mais j'avais réussi à me faire prendre dans 1 4x4 tout neuf (le plus beau véhicule que j'ai jamais pris à mada) en payant une place (je ne me souviens plus du prix, cher) voila, c'est une super ballade, que je referais volontiers s'il n'y avait pas tant de choses à voir...
Ces dernières années, on nous l’a déconseillé pour des raisons de sécurité :il fallait être accompagné par des gendarmes malgaches ou faire partie d’un gros tour opérateur ! Je pense avoir compris à travers mes lectures du forum qu’il faut arriver par taxi-brousse ou 4X4 jusqu’à Belobaka en passant par Tsiroanomandidy. Puis c’est à pied pour rejoindre Ankava lieu de l’embarcation.. Je souhaiterai que certains d’entre vous puissent me renseigner sur les guides à contacter pour faire cette partie à pied puis la descente en canoé : je pense qu’il faut que l’on soit accompagné : guide, porteur, piroguier… 2 ème question une fois arrivé à Bekopaka comment organiser notre retour sur Morondava ou sur Miandrivaza ? faut-il le prévoir ou peut-on espérer trouver un véhicule à compléter pour ce retour…
Je l'ai fait seul en 2016 sans pb, moins touristique donc moins de risque que la Tsiribihina effectivement tsidy, belobaka, ensuite trek chercher guide et porteurs (15000ar/jour à l'époque) à belobaka, 2 jours de marche soutenues car ils ont leurs étapes toutes faites et ne veulent pas s'arrêter avant, ça doit pouvoir se négocier... ensuite, le chemin rejoint souvent une piste très mauvaise mais qui est qd meme praticable, j'y ai vu un 4x4 d'un karana qui venait direct de tsiroanomandidy qui prend des passagers et également deux camions le deuxième jour qui allaient sur belobaka, donc si on est en petite forme, il doit y avoir moyen de se faire trimballer à akavandra il faut se faire obligatoirement enregistrer à la mairie avant la descente du fleuve tu peux le faire en pirogue traditionnelle ou avec les kayaks de mad caméléon Mme lalisy qui a un hotel a akavandra et connait des piroguiers, on me l'avait recommandée, je suis passé par claude vassil qui l'organise aussi 0345036747 (en face de mad caméléon), mais demander un guide qui parle français, monja qui m'a conduit était bien mais il était pressé et a shunté les piscines naturelles en fin de parcours, c'est ballot de faire 8500km et de passer sans s'arrêter ... ensuite pour morondava il y en a de mieux informés que moi, mais j'avais réussi à me faire prendre dans 1 4x4 tout neuf (le plus beau véhicule que j'ai jamais pris à mada) en payant une place (je ne me souviens plus du prix, cher) voila, c'est une super ballade, que je referais volontiers s'il n'y avait pas tant de choses à voir...
Kabary
BONSOIR JACK
En effet la navette dont vous voyer la photo fait le trajet Morondava-Bekopaka 3 fois la semaine elle propose aussi une visite de la forêt de Kirindy. Il en existe deux autres pour en savoir plus voyez le site madagascar-touring.com. et écrivez à l'adresse que j'ai communiqué dans un message il y a quelques jours. Bonne continuation. Cordialement. JP
En effet la navette dont vous voyer la photo fait le trajet Morondava-Bekopaka 3 fois la semaine elle propose aussi une visite de la forêt de Kirindy. Il en existe deux autres pour en savoir plus voyez le site madagascar-touring.com. et écrivez à l'adresse que j'ai communiqué dans un message il y a quelques jours. Bonne continuation. Cordialement. JP
lestratadamsimonneau
bjr, il y a une navette régulière entre bekopaka et morondava à un tarif bon prix que de faire venir un 4x4 privé depuis morondava à un prix exorbitant
Merci Christian pour cette précision Peut-on savoir si cette navette est quotidienne ? Cordialement Jean Jack
bjr, voir avec son exploitant madagascar touring pour la fréquence.
Merci Christian pour cette précision Peut-on savoir si cette navette est quotidienne ? Cordialement Jean Jack
bjr, voir avec son exploitant madagascar touring pour la fréquence.
Merci cher voisin
OK pour cette réponse
Même s'il faut attendre 1 jour ou 2 sur Bekopaka ce sera sympa de profiter de cette navette: elle a l'air d'être assez confortable en regardant la photo.
Je n'avais pas imaginé qu'il y ait cette jonction routière entre Maintirano et Morondava (On peut imaginer que ce type de navette continue jusqu'à Tuléar).
Avec plaisir de se rencontrer sur Saint-Pierre
Jean Jack
Bonjour,
Cette description très détaillée va m'être utile pour organiser notre périple surtout que ton voyage date de moins de 2 ans.
Tu parles de 2 jours de marche soutenue ...6 à 8 heures par jour ? avec gros dénivelé ?
Est-ce-que d'autres membres du forum auraient des informations plus récentes sur cette très mauvaise piste...certains 4x4 ou camions continuent-ils à l'emprunter?
Cordialement Jean Jack
Cordialement Jean Jack
Bonjour,
Tu parles de 2 jours de marche soutenue ...6 à 8 heures par jour ? avec gros dénivelé ?
Est-ce-que d'autres membres du forum auraient des informations plus récentes sur cette très mauvaise piste...certains 4x4 ou camions continuent-ils à l'emprunter?
Jean Jack
6-8 h oui avec pause déjeuner confortable (photo1) gros dénivelé le premier jour, une fois sur le plateau c'est ... plat ensuite descente par un sentier direct (photo2) vers ankavandra avec belle cascade, j'ai fini par les décider à bivouaquer là, mais j'étais déjà rincé 😛 je te signale qu'il y a de nombreux passages où on marche dans l'eau, comme il n'est pas question de s'arrêter pour se sécher les pieds, gare aux ampoules ! franchement ça vaut la peine de le faire en trois jours quitte à insister bcp auprès du guide et des porteurs, pour avoir le temps de se sécher les pieds et regarder le paysage, je me faisais quasiment engueuler quand je prenais trop de photos 😉 moi j'avais négocié mais en fait ils ont bourré pareil le premier jour c'est vraiment la première étape qu'ils ne veulent pas rater, sans doute pour ne pas bivouaquer car je n'ai pas vu de village avant maroulakabe, mais pas dit qu'il n'y en ait pas à côté de la piste ... si tu veux j'ai reconstitué quelques tronçons du chemin dans google map, demande moi en mp la piste à mon avis fonctionne toujours, vu l'état dans lequel elle était elle n'a pas pu se dégrader plus, surtout que c'est assez pierreux, (je te rassure le sentier de descente n'est pas le même ... la piste fait une grande boucle vers le nord)
6-8 h oui avec pause déjeuner confortable (photo1) gros dénivelé le premier jour, une fois sur le plateau c'est ... plat ensuite descente par un sentier direct (photo2) vers ankavandra avec belle cascade, j'ai fini par les décider à bivouaquer là, mais j'étais déjà rincé 😛 je te signale qu'il y a de nombreux passages où on marche dans l'eau, comme il n'est pas question de s'arrêter pour se sécher les pieds, gare aux ampoules ! franchement ça vaut la peine de le faire en trois jours quitte à insister bcp auprès du guide et des porteurs, pour avoir le temps de se sécher les pieds et regarder le paysage, je me faisais quasiment engueuler quand je prenais trop de photos 😉 moi j'avais négocié mais en fait ils ont bourré pareil le premier jour c'est vraiment la première étape qu'ils ne veulent pas rater, sans doute pour ne pas bivouaquer car je n'ai pas vu de village avant maroulakabe, mais pas dit qu'il n'y en ait pas à côté de la piste ... si tu veux j'ai reconstitué quelques tronçons du chemin dans google map, demande moi en mp la piste à mon avis fonctionne toujours, vu l'état dans lequel elle était elle n'a pas pu se dégrader plus, surtout que c'est assez pierreux, (je te rassure le sentier de descente n'est pas le même ... la piste fait une grande boucle vers le nord)
Kabary
Bonsoir Jean Jack,
La navette citée fait le parcours Bekopa- Morondava, pour les autres tronçons transport plus aléatoire. exemple : photo du 4x4 humanitaire qui prenait des passagers et qui m'a permis de faire Antsalova- Bekopa .OK pour te rencontrer. j'ai les cartes détaillées si nécessaire.
je suis joignable au 0692135359.
Loïc
La navette citée fait le parcours Bekopa- Morondava, pour les autres tronçons transport plus aléatoire. exemple : photo du 4x4 humanitaire qui prenait des passagers et qui m'a permis de faire Antsalova- Bekopa .OK pour te rencontrer. j'ai les cartes détaillées si nécessaire.
je suis joignable au 0692135359.
Loïc
bjr, la navette fait morondava jusqu'à belo sur mer. elle ne va pas plus loin (pas de tulear). possibilité de faire morondava, belo sur mer et salary par la mer à bord d'un pirogue de pecheurs. puis, une fois à salary (à andravona plus précisément) prendre la navette de Mikea Lodge pour rejoindre tulear. par ailleurs, un français (Pirata Be sur facebook) exploite un boutre VIP pour des croisières entre morondava et tulear mais le prix n'est pas donné.
Et je me demande comment il va faire pour accéder aux Tsingy de Bekopaka s'il n'a pas de 4x4?
c'est inclus dans le tarif de la navette.
c'est inclus dans le tarif de la navette.
Bonjour
Je reprends la suite de la discussion que j’avais initiée en février. Tout d’abord merci à tous ceux qui m’ont aidé par leurs réponses précises à mes interrogations. Notre descente de la Manambolo est donc prévue le mois prochain (sans doute le 08 mai) avec départ de Tana puis jonction en 4x4 et à pied jusqu’à l’embarquement en pirogue (2 à 3 jours) et 3 jours de descente puis 1 à 2 nuits à Bekopaka avec visite des Tsingy de Bemaraha puis retour en 4x4 par Morondava, par l’allée des baobabs et on passe par Antsirabé pour rentrer à Tana. Nous sommes donc 2 à partir : mais si 2 personnes veulent se joindre à nous pour vivre ce merveilleux périple : ce serait bien pour partager les frais et également pour des raisons de sécurité… Au plaisir de vous lire Jack
Je reprends la suite de la discussion que j’avais initiée en février. Tout d’abord merci à tous ceux qui m’ont aidé par leurs réponses précises à mes interrogations. Notre descente de la Manambolo est donc prévue le mois prochain (sans doute le 08 mai) avec départ de Tana puis jonction en 4x4 et à pied jusqu’à l’embarquement en pirogue (2 à 3 jours) et 3 jours de descente puis 1 à 2 nuits à Bekopaka avec visite des Tsingy de Bemaraha puis retour en 4x4 par Morondava, par l’allée des baobabs et on passe par Antsirabé pour rentrer à Tana. Nous sommes donc 2 à partir : mais si 2 personnes veulent se joindre à nous pour vivre ce merveilleux périple : ce serait bien pour partager les frais et également pour des raisons de sécurité… Au plaisir de vous lire Jack
Bonjour, j'en arrive ... Il faut compter plutôt 3 jours + une matinée au départ de Ankavandra. J'ai navigué avec mon kayak pliant à voile (biplace) ... c'était superbe, voir le fb "Luc BABIN", attention à la courtoisie avec les Dahalo (nombreux) ...
Luc au cap Masoala,
"là où la forêt tombe dans la mer"
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Thanks for your replies
Are there any boat connections between Mananara and Sambava in September 2026?
Thanks for your replies
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Hi everyone,
I'm looking for a private transfer from Tana to Mananjary from May 16 to 20, 2026.
Do you have a contact, please?
Best regards,
Jary
I'm looking for a private transfer from Tana to Mananjary from May 16 to 20, 2026.
Do you have a contact, please?
Best regards,
Jary
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this? Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason. Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market. The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers... The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there). The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this? Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason. Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market. The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers... The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there). The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
hi there
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra. I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it. So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast. Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it? What do you think?
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra. I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it. So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast. Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it? What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
Hello!
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days) Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights) Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach. Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot. Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina). Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights) Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse. Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights) Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise. Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach. Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days) Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights) Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy. Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire. Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie. Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling. Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights) Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach. Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon. Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery. Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls). Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights) Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach. Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs. Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights) Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park. Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes. Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village. Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days) Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights) Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach. Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot. Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina). Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights) Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse. Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights) Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise. Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach. Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days) Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights) Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy. Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire. Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie. Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling. Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights) Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach. Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon. Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery. Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls). Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights) Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach. Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs. Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights) Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park. Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes. Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village. Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?
Thanks! !
Thanks! !
Hi everyone! I’ve put together an itinerary for Madagascar and would love to get your feedback if you can help—thanks!
December 6–9: Antananarivo 3 nights, sightseeing Andasibe-Mantadia National Park Rova of Antananarivo (Ambohimanga Fort) Lemurs’ Park
December 9–11: Fianarantsoa, 2 nights Ranomafana National Park
Ambalavao, December 11–13, 2 nights Andringitra National Park
December 13–15: Ranohira or Ilakaka, 2 nights Monkey Canyon visit Isalo National Park
December 15–18: Tulear, 3 nights Reniala Reserve visit Beach time, possible diving Antsokay Arboretum Ifaty Forest
December 18–19: Full day—take a flight to the capital and stay overnight Then on December 19, take the bus to Morondava
December 19–23: Morondava, 4 nights Kirindy Mitea National Park Avenue of the Baobabs Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park
12:30-hour bus ride from Morondava to the capital
Antananarivo, December 23–24 11:30-hour trip from the capital to Mahajanga
Mahajanga/Majunga, December 24–27, 3 nights Ankarafantsika National Park visit
Ambanja District, 3 nights December 27–30 Tsaratanana Nature Reserve visit Maromokotro trek
Nosy Be Island, December 30–January 7, 2026, 8 nights diving, beach time, relaxation, walks, hiking, snorkeling
Antsiranana, January 7–11, 4 nights Ambavanibe Bay visit Montagne d’Ambre National Park
Return to the capital for a flight home or a 28-hour bus ride
1 or 2 nights in Antananarivo depending on the return trip
January 13: Departure for France Arrival in Paris, France the next day
December 6–9: Antananarivo 3 nights, sightseeing Andasibe-Mantadia National Park Rova of Antananarivo (Ambohimanga Fort) Lemurs’ Park
December 9–11: Fianarantsoa, 2 nights Ranomafana National Park
Ambalavao, December 11–13, 2 nights Andringitra National Park
December 13–15: Ranohira or Ilakaka, 2 nights Monkey Canyon visit Isalo National Park
December 15–18: Tulear, 3 nights Reniala Reserve visit Beach time, possible diving Antsokay Arboretum Ifaty Forest
December 18–19: Full day—take a flight to the capital and stay overnight Then on December 19, take the bus to Morondava
December 19–23: Morondava, 4 nights Kirindy Mitea National Park Avenue of the Baobabs Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park
12:30-hour bus ride from Morondava to the capital
Antananarivo, December 23–24 11:30-hour trip from the capital to Mahajanga
Mahajanga/Majunga, December 24–27, 3 nights Ankarafantsika National Park visit
Ambanja District, 3 nights December 27–30 Tsaratanana Nature Reserve visit Maromokotro trek
Nosy Be Island, December 30–January 7, 2026, 8 nights diving, beach time, relaxation, walks, hiking, snorkeling
Antsiranana, January 7–11, 4 nights Ambavanibe Bay visit Montagne d’Ambre National Park
Return to the capital for a flight home or a 28-hour bus ride
1 or 2 nights in Antananarivo depending on the return trip
January 13: Departure for France Arrival in Paris, France the next day
I'm heading to Nosy Be (Madagascar) this coming October. This is my very first visit to this part of the Indian Ocean. I'd like to know if it's better to bring my bank card and withdraw cash from ATMs there, or if it would be preferable to bring cash in euros or dollars and exchange it for the local currency upon arrival.
Thanks!
/D

















