Permettez-moi une brève présentation. Je pratique plutôt le voyage à vélo en autonomie, j'ai 65 ans et quelques problèmes de santé me font depuis quelques mois obstacle à cette pratique.
J'avais dans mes cartons un périple dans le sud du Maroc que je vais finalement réaliser en véhicule à moteur. Ce sera via les bus locaux et les grands taxis.
Le circuit partira d'Agadir, longera toute la côte jusqu'à Guelmim, pose à Tighmert, puis remontée vers Tafraoute et Taroudant. Nous nous donnons un mois.
Mon épouse, qui est loin d'avoir l'esprit routard comme moi sera du voyage. Et elle a un sérieux handicap, elle souffre de vertige sévère (j'ai pu le mesurer lors de ma tournée des châteaux Cathares). Elle peut avoir des réactions de panique très impressionnantes.
Donc, venons en au fait, je m'adresse à vous (le Maroc n'étant pas couvert par GoogleStreetMap) pour obtenir votre avis sur 2 points précis :
- pensez-vous que la remontée de Taroudant à Marrakech par le Tizi N'Test et halte à Ijoukak lui serait insupportable en ce qui concerne le dénivelé et surtout en fonction des protections existantes ou non entre la route et le ravin ? Doit-on oublier cette étape sachant que ce doit être magnifique mais qu'il y a 216 km à parcourir ?
- dès lors, pensez-vous que celà vaille vraiment le coup de parcourir 312 km aller/retour de Guelmim pour aller voir le coucher de soleil à El Ouatia via Tan Tan ?
Nous partons le 29 octobre et devrions être de retour 30 jours plus tard. Bien sûr, je ferai un carnet de voyage mais ce ne sera pour vous que des confirmations dans la mesure où j'ai puisé les bons plans hébergement ici.
En vous remerciant,
Bien cordialement,
Jean-Simon
PS : j'habite à Riantec, en Bretagne sud, au bord de la petite mer de Gâvres (a côté de Lorient)
La route du Tizi N Test peut être impressionnante mais elle est assez large. Mais je ne connais pas le seuil de tolérance de votre femme.
En revanche pour aller de Guelmim à El Ouatia c'est plat.
La route du tizi n test ne presente pas d aspect terrifiant car comme deja dit elle est assez large et de memoire on ne longe pas le vide. Mais comme on ne connait pas votre femme ?'
Je ne ferais pas tous ces km pour un coucher de soleil a el ouatia.
Toute la cote atlantique vous en servira de forts beaux.
Un truc joli si vous y aller, mais il faudra prendre un taxi a tan tan ou a el outia : l embouchure du draa.
Ma foi, la, pourquoi pas un coucher de soleil. Mais perso rien que pour ca, ninr.
Merci à vous Béatrice, ainsi qu'à Trostang, pour vos réponses (rapides).
J'ai une autre question aussi, plus générale mais dont je n'ai pas trouvé la réponse ici : comment s'y prend-t-on avec le chauffeur si on a besoin de faire pipi durant un voyage de 2 ou 3h dans un bus genre CTM ou Supratours, ou autre bus Beldi ? y a-t-il des poses prévues à cet effet ? C'est un problème récurrent je pense ?
pensez-vous que la remontée de Taroudant à Marrakech par le Tizi N'Test et halte à Ijoukak lui serait insupportable en ce qui concerne le dénivelé et surtout en fonction des protections existantes ou non entre la route et le ravin ?
Il faut dire que lorsque le vertige confine à la panique cette route peut être épineuse . Surtout en transports en commun ou on ne maîtrise rien , aucune possibilité de faire 1/2 tour . Depuis qu'elle est en partie refaite ca vas mieux , mais il reste dans le haut quelques passages pas terribles . Apres on n'y croise pas beaucoup de camions .
La deuxième photo doit être Apres le col en allant sur Ijoukak , avec cet angle on remarque bien le côté vertigineux d'une portion de la route .
Apres pour etre reste coincée par le vertige sur une passerelle qui surplombait une Gare SNCF je comprends tout à fait le phénomène de vertige . Et pourtant je conduit sans probleme sur la route du Tizi n'Test , mais le vertige ça dépend des lieux , des individus , de la cause ( physique ou psychique) c'est complexe .
Ha mais je n ecris pas cela pour nier la peur et le vertige. Vous connaissez mieux que moi la route.
Toi et mezgarne.
Je ne voudrais pas avoir donner un mauvais avis en ayant ete trop subjective. La route est si belle.
La route est plus que belle c'est sur .
Ä mon avis en voiture de location si ça craint on peux faire demi tour éventuellement , mais en bus ....on est embarqué pour le voyage .
Il n'y a que la personne qui peut décider si oui ou non elle peut passer sur son vertige . Ce qui fait qu'il est très difficile d'être objectif pour donner une réponse dans ce cas .
Tu vas y passe je suppose ?
Sur le Tizi n'test on vous as déjà donné des éléments de reponses dans la mesure du possible . Si les vertiges peuvent déclencher ce que l'on appelle des crises de panique alors ce peut être ennuyeux , surtout avec des transports en commun .
Mais pour remonter vers Tafroute qu'elle route comptez vous prendre car une partîe de la route qui passe par le col du Kerdous peut être impressionnant sur une quinzaine de kms .
Votre question pose problème car on ne peut jamais savoir ce qui déclenche réellement le vertige et lä ou un passeras sans probleme l'autre resteras bloqué .
Pas la peine d'aller à El Outia pour le coucher du soleil . À partir de Tiznit , Aglou , Leghzira, Sidi Ifni vous permettrons de vous regaler Pour admirer le coucher du soleil sur la mer .
Grand merci à tous, vos messages m'ont convaincu de ne pas prendre de risque inconsidéré.
Vos propos ont bien résumé la situation et le fait d'exclure le demi tour pour les bus en commun est un élément de poids. On ne peut pas prendre le risque de gâcher le voyage d'autres personnes.
Donc Hannah, la solution de repli sera de rejoindre directement l'aéroport d'Agadir au départ de Taroudant et là, aucun risque de vertige.
Ce forum est vraiment une source magique de renseignements, je ne manquerai pas d'y apporter ma contribution au retour.
La route est plus que belle c'est sur .
Ä mon avis en voiture de location si ça craint on peux faire demi tour éventuellement , mais en bus ....on est embarqué pour le voyage .
Il n'y a que la personne qui peut décider si oui ou non elle peut passer sur son vertige . Ce qui fait qu'il est très difficile d'être objectif pour donner une réponse dans ce cas .
Tu vas y passe je suppose ?
Bonsoir.
le tizi n'test est magnifique mais je crois qu'on en profite beaucoup plus en voiture qu'en bus car on s'y arrête quand on veut, c'est à dire très souvent dans mon cas, en voiture. La vue est forcement plus limitée en bus. Dans la sens Taroudant-MRK, la montée se fait essentiellement côté "montagne", pas côté ravin. Mais quant à la gestion du vertige, c'est trop personnel pour que je vous incite trop lourdement à passer par là. Bon voyage.
Il faut dire que lorsque le vertige confine à la panique cette route peut être épineuse . Surtout en transports en commun ou on ne maîtrise rien , aucune possibilité de faire 1/2 tour .
Quand je l'ai faite j'étais déjà habituée aux routes de montagne au Maroc, mais je me souviens avoir dû m'arrêter "là maintenant immédiatement tout de suite" dans la route des gorges du Dadès. Panique des passagers qui m'ont vue aller sur la droite vers le ravin parce qu'il y avait un petit terre plein :D :D
Apres on n'y croise pas beaucoup de camions .
Maintenant non puisqu'ils peuvent prendre la route vers Agadir, plus longue, mais plate et plus rapide....
J'ai un excellent souvenir de cette route que j'ai faite plusieurs fois, en sachant à quoi m'attendre, et conduite par quelqu'un en qui j'avais toute confiance.
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!!
Thanks
Hi everyone,
We're leaving in early October 2026 and planning to travel from the Aït Bougmez Valley ("Happy Valley") to Skoura/Ouarzazate via Demnate and the R307/N23 route.
Has anyone taken this road recently? Is it passable with a regular car (non-4x4), or is a 4x4 absolutely necessary? Are there any ongoing construction projects or degraded sections to be aware of?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!