Bonjour amis de VF,
Je vais tenter de mettre ici des infos pratiques concernant notre voyage de 6 semaines au Guatemala, organisé par nous mêmes. du 14/01/2019 au 24/02/2019
Notre blog est aussi visible ici http://pamyguat2019.home.com Pour plus de photos et de détails.
Nous faisons le tour à l’inverse des aiguilles d’une montre.
La sortie de l’aéroport se fait rapidement, commander un Uber est très facile et revient quasi au même prix que la navette pour rejoindre Antigua. Uber fonctionne très bien dans cette partie du Guatemala.
Pas d’infos particulière pour Antigua car nous logeons chez une connaissance dans le village de San Juan del Obispo. Bus locaux pour Antigua 2Q.
Marché le dimanche et le mercredi dans un village plus haut que San Juan à Santa Maria de Jesús, nous y sommes allés le mercredi mais il est plus intéressant le dimanche. De ce village un bureau de guide organise la montée sur le volcan probablement moins cher que depuis Antigua. Ce village peut se reloindre depuis Antigua en Uber ( peut être 30 quetzals la course) ou en transport public, il faut alors changer à San Juan. Entre San Juan et Antigua chouette excursion à faire à flan de montagne au Cerro de San Christobla del Alto. Un resto avec une superbe vue sur les volcans mais un peu cher est installé là on peut y prendre un verre et visiter le beau jardin avec serres d’orchidées et potager. Pour aller là c’est compliqué sans Uber.
Vers Copan
Nous partons directement pour Copan Honduras depuis Antigua à 9h30 avec la compagnie Litegua pour 125 Q./pers. Minibus tout nouveau jusqu’à la capitale où on devra changer pour un grand bus. Pas d’inquiétude de sécurité dans la gare. Tout est bien organisé par la compagnie de bus qui nous transfère d’une gare à l’autre dans Guatemala Ciudad.
Changement de bus à Jocotan pour un bus local où on est un peu entassé mais cela dure environ 1/2 heure sur une toute nouvelle route. A la frontière nous arrivons à la nuit tombée les formalités de sortie et d’entrée au Honduras se font dans le même bureau, les guichets honduriens et guatemaltèques sont les uns à côté des autres. En principe c’est gratuit pour entrer au Honduras mais en réalité on devra s’acquitter de 3$ On reçoit un reçu, pas de problème pour payer en quetzals.
Pendant nos 2 jours et 3 nuits à Copan on payera tout en quetzals ou par carte bancaire. Certainement qu’on se fait un peu avoir avec le change quetzals lempiras mais ce ne sont que des petites sommes, il est aussi possible de payer en dollars.
A la frontière nous avons la chance de monter dans un shuttle affrété par 2 jeunes hollandais pour rejoindre Copan. Nous avons choisi de loger au ViaVia 10$ la nuit pour 2! Mais hélas le bar à côté va faire la fête jusqu’à 2 h.du matin si bien qu’on dit au propriétaire belge qu’on est trop vieux pour toute cette musique. Il nous propose d’aller voir un hôtel avec lequel il a un arrangement le prix réel est de 60$ on pourrait y dormir pour 25$... On s’est levé un peu tard pour aller visiter les ruines, on se décide pour aller avec l’entremise aussi de Gerardo patron du Via Via aux thermes Mayas, une très chouette après midi.
Le Don Unos est superbe au bout d’une rue, un grand lit confortable on est séduit ça vaut certainement les 25$. À payer en liquide au ViaVia, la même chose pour les thermes cela met à mal notre provision de quetzals. On va manger au comedor en face du ViaVia vraiment bon et très bon marché. Le soir on ira au resto à côté du comedor, très bon, beau cadre, le double du prix mais ok peut être un peu plus cher que le ViaVia mais plus authentique.
Au retour nous prendrons un tuk tuk et un minibus local (50lempiras) jusqu’à la frontière.
vers Quirigua
Trajet Copan à Quirgua
De l’autre côté un minibus Lintegua nous prend en charge directement jusqu’à Jocotan ou de nouveau on prend un grand bus pour aller jusqu’à Rio Hondo, où on attend 5 mn le bus pour Quirigua. Nous parlons très mal espagnol mais tout est simple et les correspondances s’enchaînent très vite. Le bus va donc nous déposer à la passerelle de Quirigua comme conseillé par le LP, il faut descendre dans le village pour arriver à l’hôtel Royal. Chambre routarde et pas de carte on a plus de liquide donc tuk tuk jusqu’à Los Alamates où il y a plusieurs banques. Nous renonçons à la banc
a rural car chaque fois notre MasterCard est refusée. A côté nous obtiendrons avec carte et passeport le maximum possible soit 3900 Q environ 450€. Longues, très longues formalités mais ça finit par marcher pas de frais du coup. On est de nouveau riche! Retour à Quirigua en tuk tuk pour visiter les ruines. 1 grosse heure suffit. Hôtel le Royal vraiment pas top, on y mange le soir, cela semble bon mais Richard va tomber malade le lendemain. À refaire on prendrait plutôt un hôtel à Los Alamates, c’est plus simple le bus pour poursuivre le voyage part de là et tous les tuk tuk vous conduisent aux ruines pour 10 à 20Q.
vers Rio Dulce
Los Alamates Rio Dulce
Bus direct à 10h30 700Q pour 2 toujours un grand bus Litegua, clim à fond prévoir un pull.
A Rio Dulce, on a pris contact avec la Casa Perico. (dans le LP) Des bungalows dans la mangrove qu’on n’atteint qu’en bateau. Bungalow privatif avec Sdb privée 250Q.
Repas sur place tout à fait convenable et prix ok. Il faut comprendre qu’une fois là on doit reprendre le bateau pour retourner à Rio Dulce. Richard est malade entérite, moi mon dos cassé on reste ici le temps de se refaire idéal pour le repos.
La suite au fur et à mesure et en fonction de notre temps et du wifi.
J’aurais aimé modifier mon premier message mais je n’ai pas trouvé comment faire...
Nous allons nous diriger vers Livingston, pour cela la navette commandée par notre hôte de Casa Perico vient nous chercher à 9h. Nous allons faire plusieurs AR entre différentes GH pour prendre les voyageurs, on s’est installé à l’arrière comme suggèré par notre hôte, et même au milieu. Les places devant sont tentantes mais dès que le bateau prend de la vitesse le devant se soulève et on ne voit rien. De plus notre voyage se fera sous la pluie et ne sera pas du tout la croisière prévue. Saison seche! On débarque trempée et ce qui est moins drôle nous découvrirons que nos valises ont pris l’eau!
L’aigrette prend sa douche aussi.
A Livingston nous logeons au Rio tropicales chambre négociée à 185 Q. Chambre très propre mais il doit y avoir moyen de trouver mieux.
Nous irons le lendemain aux « seite alteres » promenade le long de la plage très réduite et malheureusement très sale, pour les altères c’est un beau site mais il nous a un peu déçu il parait qu’il n’y a pas assez d’eau.
Rencontre dans Livingston avec un rasta nommé Philippe qui va nous faire visiter le village Garifunas, une grande misère.
Pour plus de photos et impressions http://pamyguat2019.home.blog
Je continue donc mon monologue.
Une belle journée à Livingston où nous avons visité avec Philip un rasta Garifuna le village garifuna beaucoup de misère tant dans les habitations et tout nous a semblé pauvre aussi culturellement parlant. Philip par un très bon anglais, il a fait des études aux USA mais sa vie n’est certainement pas celle qu’il a rêvée.
Puis nous sommes partis en tuk tuk pour s’approcher des Seite altares, une longue promenade sur la plage réduite à 1m de large et hélas encombrée d’imondices. Les Seite Altares nous ont un peu déçus manque d’eau et la baignade dans les bassins nous a paru bien fraîche.
Retour le lendemain pour Rio Dulce 100Q. Le retour se fait sous le soleil c’est superbe.
Départ avec la compagnie Fuente Del Norte pour la Finca Ixtobel. 50Q un grand bus mais cette fois mon mari fera le voyage debout! Le bus nous dépose devant le chemin qui mène à la Finca 1km à pied.
Chambre sdb partagee 155Q grande mais cloison en bois qui laissent passer les voix des voisins. Accueil et repas excellents. Bel endroit pour se reposer.
Un shuttle va venir nous chercher pour aller à Santa Elena(Flores) 55Q par personne.
Changement de minibus pour El Remate à Santa Elena 25Q pp
El Remate chez Alice bungalow avec sdb 250Q négocie à 230 car nous restons 3 nuits.
Départ Tikal depuis la rte pres de la GH 60Q (5h30 du matin! ) entrée Tikal 150Q et guide 75Q. Nous avons choisi de prendre un guide et n’avons pas regretté car si avec le guide papier on a sûrement assez d’infos pour visiter seul. Le guide nous a donné beaucoup d’explications sur les arbres et montres des oiseaux que nous n’aurions pas vu sans lui.
il y a bien longtemps que vous êtes rentrés du Guatemala...Mais moi j'ai bien ri en lisant votre "périple" sur votre blog...Surtout ne changez rien cousins...
Nous y étions l’hiver dernier, mon dos s’en rappelle toujours. Mais on repart en Inde en janvier.
Cousins? D’outre Quievrain? En fait on habite principalement en France.
Amitiés de Normandie 😉
Je pars au Mexique en décembre.Quelqu'un pourrait il me dire si il existe un bus direct entre Puebla et Taxco ce qui m'éviterai de repasser par Mexico.Merci…
Notre voyage au Nicaragua a commençé il y a une semaine déj. Nous sommes allés directement Granada, la siesta où j'avais réservé une chambre, et, nous y sommes…
Croisières › États-Unis / Mexique / Belize · 17 replies
En direct duCarnival Conquest Jour 1 dimanche12 octobre De Naples à Miami Après avoir quitté Naples (en Floride!) vers 10h30 nous arrivons à l’aéroport de…
Quelqu'un pourrait-il me renseigner concernant le trajet de Playa del Carmen à Chichen Itza? Quel est l'itinéraire le plus direct en voiture (via Tulum ou…
Hello,
We're planning 15 days in Chiapas. We already spent 3 weeks in the Yucatán 4 years ago.
What would you recommend in Chiapas? Our idea is to rent a car so we can move around freely—there’ll be two of us.
Thanks for your tips on great places to stay, restaurants, and sights to visit!
In 2024, I spent two months solo in El Salvador. While I’m still putting together my travel journal on Myatlas, here’s a quick recap.
It’s a country where it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
SAFETY:
For a long time, the country was considered one of the most dangerous in the world because of the "maras," ultra-violent gangs. But today, I think it’s the safest country in Latin America.
BUDGET:
For French tourists, the country is very affordable, especially in the less touristy regions.
TRANSPORT:
I got around everywhere by local bus.
Local buses go everywhere and run all the time. For me, it’s the best way to travel in El Salvador—you’re fully immersed, moving at the pace of the locals, and interacting with Salvadorans who are eager to connect with travelers.
I saw all sorts of things on those buses—I’ve got dozens of stories!
PEOPLE:
I’m used to traveling all over Latin America, and for me, Salvadorans are the warmest and most welcoming. Everywhere you go, people say, "Welcome to El Salvador!"
The connections and long conversations with locals were my favorite part of the trip.
TOURIST CROWDS:
The country isn’t well-known among European tourists, but Americans and Quebecers visit. Overall, it’s still pretty low-key, especially compared to other Central American countries. That said, tourism has been growing since security improved significantly.
WHAT I LOVED ❤️
-Suchitoto, one of the most beautiful colonial towns in Central America.
-The volcanoes—there are so many! Santa Ana is the most touristy.
-The lakes—also plentiful. Coatepeque is the most famous, but there are lots of lagoons too.
-The mountainous regions, where the cooler weather is a nice break: La Palma, Perquín, Cerro El Pital, etc.
-The charming villages along the Ruta de las Flores, especially Nahuizalco with its nighttime atmosphere and food stalls. Juayúa and others are great too.
-The conversations with people who lived through the horrors of the civil war in Perquín and Cinquera. I met one of them by chance while waiting for a bus.
For surfers, El Salvador is a paradise, with world-famous beaches.
WHAT I LIKED LESS:
I loved almost everything, but I found the archaeological sites a bit underwhelming. Joyabaj de Cerén is billed as the "Pompeii of El Salvador," which is a stretch (though it *is* a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical value).
I’ve been reading some really conflicting info about the best ways and advantages of exchanging euros for Mexican pesos. For those with recent experience, could you shed some light? Is exchanging at the airport currency exchange offices more worthwhile? Other advice suggests that withdrawing with an international bank card is the best option. Thanks for sharing your experiences on this!
Philippe
I’m heading to Guatemala for 18 days in August with my 11-year-old and I’m wondering if renting a car makes sense—not so much because of the road conditions, but because I’d like to spend about 3 days in Livingston. Since it’s only accessible by boat, I’d have to leave the car in Río Dulce. Maybe possible at a hotel, but that means paying for a rental for 3 days without using it...
Same issue for Semuc Champey—it’s only reachable by 4x4, and I won’t be renting that type of vehicle.
Also, has anyone traveled from Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) to Cobán (to explore the caves and waterfalls in the area)?
According to Google Maps, it’s a 6-hour, 44-minute drive... so whether by car or minibus, it’s *really* long (same for Cobán-Flores later).
Are there any interesting stops along the way where I could spend a night? And if I’m not renting a car, is it possible to take two private shuttles for this route?
Hi,
We’re planning a trip to Mexico this summer (loop through Yucatan, Quintana Roo, Campeche). We’re thinking of using public transport or possibly renting a car. The French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website has a lot of recommendations. Are these states safe for solo travelers? Are there any precautions we should take or areas to avoid?
Thanks,
Hi everyone, I’m planning to go to Panama in December and I’d like to know which city is closest to the Panama-Costa Rica border—and just across the border in Costa Rica—to buy the cheapest bus ticket? Just so I have proof of onward travel when I take my flight, thanks.
When planning a trip to Panama, you often hear about Panama City, Bocas del Toro, Boquete, or even San Blas. Yet, there’s a region that remains relatively under the radar in travel guides: the Arco Seco.
Located on the Pacific coast, between the provinces of Panamá Oeste, Coclé, Herrera, and Los Santos, the Arco Seco enjoys a generally drier climate than the rest of the country. Even during the rainy season, you’ll often find more sunshine here than in other parts of Panama.
For travelers who love alternating between beaches, nature, hikes, and local discoveries, this region is definitely worth a detour.
A few ideas for visits:
• The beaches of La Ensenada, El Palmar, Punta Barco, and Coronado
• Surfing at El Palmar, one of the most well-known spots on the Pacific coast
• Kitesurfing at Punta Chame, which is highly reputed!
• El Valle de Antón, nestled in an ancient volcanic crater, with its hikes, waterfalls, artisan market, and hot springs
• Various hikes offering stunning panoramas
• The waterfalls in the San Carlos and El Valle areas
• Golf at Vista Mar or Coronado
• Fishing villages where you can still buy freshly caught fish directly from local fishermen
What I particularly love about this region is that it lets you discover a more authentic and peaceful side of Panama while remaining easily accessible from Panama City.
I’ve been living in San Carlos for several years now, and I’m still discovering new places, trails, beaches, and hidden gems.
If anyone is planning a trip to this region and has questions, I’d be happy to share my favorite spots and personal recommendations.
Hi,
For those who’ve tried it, are Uber or similar services (if available—could you also let me know the names of local equivalents?) reliable and safe?
Thanks in advance.
Philippe
I’m reaching out to tap into your knowledge and experiences, as my partner and I are heading to Guatemala and Belize for the entire month of February 2020, and we could really use some tips.
I was thinking of spending 20 days in Guatemala and 10 days in Belize, especially since our flight arrives in Guatemala City and departs from Belize.
We were considering hiring a driver-guide for part of our time in Guatemala. Which part do you think would be best? We’re choosing this country for all the culture and traditions it has to offer, so skipping a guide entirely would be a shame—but I can imagine it’d be tough to keep one for all 20 days.
So maybe a week or ten days. What kind of budget should we plan for? And most importantly, do you have any contacts for reliable driver-guides?
Thanks in advance for your valuable advice.
Marilyne
Hi there! We’ve decided to head to Panama this summer and would love to do a road trip with a rental car—there are four of us, and our kids are 20 and 23. Do you have any recommendations on must-see spots and things to avoid? Any great tips for accommodation, restaurants, or activities? Thanks so much for your help
Hello,
We’re heading to Playa del Carmen for two weeks in August with our 4-year-old child.
We’ve seen that you can visit places like Tulum or Cozumel on your own using colectivos. For Coba, we’re hesitant to go alone because we’d like to see the cenotes and the Mayan village.
But we’d prefer to find a French-speaking agency that guarantees small-group tours, especially for Sian Ka’an.
We’d rather avoid the "mimi tours" even though they’re recommended by a lot of people and the *Guide du Routard*, based on the reviews we’ve read.
I’m interested in the agency Muuch Ximbal, which seems to offer slightly different outings. There’s also H and L Tours or Delphine Fautré’s agency (though the last two don’t list excursion prices). We also found Promomaya, but apparently, they don’t have an on-site agency.
Do you have any tips or other agencies to recommend?
We’d also like to swim with dolphins but outside of the Xcaret and Xel-Há parks. Do you know of other ways to swim with them, maybe even in the open sea???
I’ve also seen that it’s possible to swim with whale sharks—is this doable with a 4-year-old who doesn’t like putting her head underwater yet? Have any of you done it? This excursion is quite expensive, and I’d be okay with swimming with them, but just sailing on a boat without being able to see them would be disappointing.
PS: Our Spanish isn’t very good.
Thanks in advance for your replies.
we’re traveling as a couple to Guatemala from Feb 8 to 22.
We’ve realized that given the distances, it feels a bit short.
So, we’ve decided to limit ourselves to:
- Antigua: 3 nights (from Feb 8 to 11), including the arrival day
- Lake Atitlán: from Feb 11 to 14 – 3 nights in San Juan La Laguna, including the morning trip from Antigua to Lake Atitlán
- Chichicastenango: from Feb 14 to 15 – 1 night to attend the Sunday market and visit the cemetery
We have 7 days left that we’re not sure how to organize to cover:
Flores – Tikal – El Remate, then head back to Guatemala City for our flight on Feb 22.
Actually, I have a few questions:
Do you think the time in Antigua and at the lake is enough?
We might do the Pacaya Volcano, which is accessible for beginners, and that’s it.
Should we spend a bit more time at these two spots: Antigua and the lake? If so, we’d have to skip the Chichicastenango market.
We’re also thinking of leaving Chichicastenango to head to Flores, then staying overnight in El Remate. Does that seem doable in one day?
We’ve noted that the trips are long, and since we don’t want to rush, we’ve reduced the number of accommodations. Even though we know we won’t see everything, we don’t want to miss the must-sees.
We’re also wondering if we’ve planned the route in the right direction, or if we should head straight to Tikal when we arrive.
Anyway, I know this is long, but we’re a bit lost.
Thanks so much for your help!
Annick
My partner and I would like to travel to Mexico during the Christmas holidays. We’re well aware that this is a peak tourist season, but it’s the only time of year when we can take a long trip (over two weeks) due to work commitments.
We’re looking to avoid overly touristy areas and travel independently (renting a car). We want to explore Mexico’s history, take our time, and enjoy nature and the sea.
I’ve never been to Mexico before, and I’m considering the following regions (not all of them, of course): Yucatán (outside Quintana Roo), Baja California, Oaxaca, or Chiapas.
I’ve more or less ruled out Chiapas for safety reasons (even though the nature there looks amazing), and I’d love to hear your thoughts on the other regions. From experience, I know that even in highly touristy areas, you can often find quieter spots with good planning and by avoiding the main hotspots. For example, we were in Thailand last year during the same period, and aside from 2-3 places, we had a very peaceful trip—sometimes even being the only Westerners around. Would the same be true for Yucatán or Baja California?
Do you have any recommendations for nice, less touristy spots? What are your thoughts on the regions I mentioned?
Thanks so much for your help, and I hope you have a great weekend!
Hi there,
We’ve had to change our plans, so we’re heading to Guatemala from October 16 to 25, 2025 (in just 6 days 😱 😊😕), with two kids aged 8 and 10. No time difference for us.
Here’s our itinerary:
Day 1: Morning: Arrival in Guatemala City at 9 AM. Drive to Antigua (1-hour shuttle) / Afternoon: Stroll around Antigua / Night: Antigua
Day 2: Explore Antigua / Night: Antigua
Day 3: Visit the area around Antigua OR hike a volcano (Acatenango?) / Night: Antigua
Day 4: Drive to Chichicastenango for the big market (how many hours?) / Afternoon: Iximche ruins? Or the hanging bridges at Atitlán Reserve? Or spend the day in Chichicastenango / Night: Panajachel
Day 5: A day by boat visiting villages around the lake and checking out local crafts (which villages to pick?), Night: Panajachel
Day 6: Drive to Flores with 1 stop? Should we go to Semuc Champey? (how many hours?), Night: ??
Day 7: Drive to Flores (how many hours?), Night: Flores
Day 8: Yaxha (1.5-hour drive each way with a driver), Night: Flores
Day 9: Day trip to Tikal, Night: Flores
Day 10:: Flight from Flores to Guatemala City, then departure at 4:30 PM
About hiking a volcano, I’ve read mixed reviews. Some say it’s easy, others say it’s tough.
Is there a kid-friendly hike where we could see lava from a volcano? Is it only visible at night? Do we *have* to sleep at the top and come down the next day?
I’ve heard of people doing it with 2-year-olds by carrying them, and others using horses—but I guess the horses don’t go all the way up? Seeing a real volcano would be amazing! I think it’d be a memorable experience for the kids. It’d be so cool to say, "We did that as a family!" But maybe it’s way too hard and a bad idea...
I’m struggling to find reliable info on travel times:
- How long is the drive from Antigua to Chichicastenango, please?
I’ve read shuttles leave at 7 AM and arrive at the market by 8:30 AM, but I’ve also seen people say it’s a 4-hour trip 😕.
Are the times on Google Maps reliable?
A blog mentioned visiting Chichicastenango’s market in the morning and Iximché in the afternoon. That seems like a lot of driving, especially after leaving Antigua in the morning. What should we do in the afternoon instead?
Days 6 and 7: The trip from Panajachel to Flores. Any advice on taking an overnight bus?
Should we go during the day with a stop at Semuc Champey? Or fly and spend the extra day somewhere else?
Day 8: Is a full day at Yaxha too much?
Thanks so much for your help—it’s *so* valuable with such short notice! 😅 😅 😅 THANK YOU
PS: If you have recommendations for private drivers, shuttle services, or any firsthand experience, I’d love to hear it!
Hi, a friend will be in Panama at an all-inclusive resort and was wondering if it's worth visiting the Canal in a single day, and also which attractions shouldn't be missed.
Is it better to choose a package deal? What's the recommended mode of transport for this trip?
Thanks
We’re a retired couple in our 70s looking to spend six weeks in Costa Rica between mid-January and mid-March 2026. We’d like to stay in comfortable bungalows (2x3 weeks) and rent a car for the entire period. We enjoy light hiking and some beach time, but we also love relaxing on a shaded veranda, reading, and unwinding. Which places would suit these preferences? We have a lot of experience with this kind of stay in the French West Indies or Indian Ocean islands but have never been to Central America. Does anyone have good tips?
Hi there, after my trip to Nicaragua in January, I’m planning to visit Honduras and El Salvador during the same journey. Can anyone tell me where to cross the border from Nicaragua to Honduras by bus? Is it doable? Safe? And most importantly, what’s a good route to take and what’s worth seeing in Honduras in a safe way?
Is it better to travel with a group (through an agency) or is solo travel no problem?
P.S.: And for El Salvador, same question—what’s a good route and what’s generally worth seeing? Is it better to start in the south (El Salvador) and then head north to Honduras before continuing to Guatemala, or...?
I spent two months alone in Guatemala this summer, without a guide or agency, and I’d love to share a quick recap of my impressions.
● First off, it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
If you want a guide for excursions, you can easily find one through the many agencies in Antigua or Panajachel. In Flores, there are also plenty of agencies offering multi-day jungle treks.
● I got around by shuttle for part of the "classic" and more touristy route. To step off that path, I took "camionetas" (chicken buses) or minibuses.
For me, "camionetas" are the best way to get around Guatemala. They let you travel everywhere, fully immersed, at the local pace. They run all the time and are even an adventure in themselves.
Shuttles are direct, but local buses aren’t.
No matter how you travel, trips take a while because roads are often in bad shape, and in the mountains, you can’t overtake.
● As for safety, there’s nothing unusual compared to other Latin American countries. Just keep in mind it’s not Europe. As a solo woman, I try not to draw too much attention—though traveling alone already does that. Like in other countries, I was often asked where my kids and husband were, and I just gave whatever answer I felt like.
● Budget-wise, Guatemala isn’t too expensive for French tourists, but Antigua and Panajachel—two very touristy spots—are pricier.
● Guatemala is a small country but incredibly rich in culture and nature (volcanoes, mountains, beaches, etc.). You can easily spend several days (or even weeks) in each region.
● My top picks ❤️:
- The Mayan markets, especially the one in San Francisco El Alto
- The Ixil Triangle: Nebaj, Chajul, Acul
- The stunning landscapes around Todos Santos Cuchumatán
- Antigua, very touristy but beautiful
- Lake Atitlán, also touristy but gorgeous
I planned to climb Pacaya Volcano, but early in my trip, there was an earthquake in Antigua, and by the end, I wasn’t in the mood. Climbing Acatenango is more spectacular but also more challenging.
● Biggest highlights ❤️ ❤️:
- Tikal—it’s THE must-see site, an incredible mix of archaeology and nature!
- The Joyabaj Fair, which I hadn’t planned to visit but ended up spending a week at: Mayan ceremonies, equestrian parades, diverse dances, processions with Mayan priests, and especially the "palo volador"—the highlight of the festival!
● Small letdown 👎:
- Ranchitos del Quetzal, where I went hoping to spot the quetzal. I knew it wasn’t the right season, but I was still disappointed—I didn’t see any other birds either, and the hiking options were limited. It also took me a slight detour from Cobán.
If you have any questions, I’d be happy to answer them.
● If you’re interested, I kept a more detailed travel journal, and I’m working on another one just about the Joyabaj Fair:
We’re planning a 15-day family trip in February 2026 (with 3 teens). We’ll be visiting friends who live in Puebla. Initially, I was thinking of the Yucatán, but after reading up on it, I don’t think it’s the right fit for us (too crowded, too touristy).
So, we’re leaning toward something like this:
- Mexico City: 2 days (Teotihuacán + city)
- Puebla: 3 days
- Tehuacán: 2 days (to break up the trip—is this a good choice? Is there enough to do for 2 days?)
- Oaxaca: 3 days (Hierve el Agua, Monte Albán, city/tours)
- Pacific Coast: 4 days (snorkeling, excursions)
Does this seem balanced? We’d like to end on the coast for some relaxation, ocean time, and fun for the kids. I’ve seen lots of excursions offered along the coast but can’t decide where to stay. Puerto Escondido? Huatulco? The beaches seem better for snorkeling in Huatulco, but I’ve read mixed things, and it’s farther away. What do you think?
For transportation, is this doable by bus? I’m struggling to find a decent bus between Tehuacán and Oaxaca (overnight schedules), and I’m not sure how to get around the coast. Also, how do we handle luggage between cities? We usually rent a car.
Finally, I’d love feedback on the Pacific Coast excursions—I get the feeling some are worth it and others aren’t. Is bioluminescence really magical? Are dolphin-watching tours ethical and not too "factory-like"? (We skipped them in Quebec and just watched whales from shore.) Can you see sea turtles up close?
Hi everyone,
There’s not much info out there on Nicaragua in general, which is why I posted my questions here on the forum... but didn’t get many answers since it’s tough to find any anyway.
It’s a stunning country, but my experience was mixed.
There are areas with very few tourists (which is exactly what we were looking for), but as a result, there’s almost no way to get around (unless you walk, and even that’s not easy or always possible) and no real tourist infrastructure.
Finding info is nearly impossible—there’s practically nothing, so it’s hard to know what you’ll find in a given place, whether it’s worth taking a 12-hour bus ride across the country, only to turn around 48 hours later.
The easy and pleasant spots: Granada, Ometepe, San Juan del Sur and the Pacific beaches, León, and the Corn Islands. These are the places mentioned in guidebooks (the rest is jungle to the east, not many roads south of the lake, and no boats on the lake either—except for the Rivas-Ometepe connection). Venturing off the beaten path is really tough.
The Caribbean coast: aside from the Corn Islands (which are very touristy but not easy to reach by ferry from Bluefields), or if you want to take a flight with La Costeña, book in advance—there are often very few seats! The rest isn’t particularly satisfying, especially Pearl Lagoon, where swimming isn’t possible due to unsafe water. Don’t expect a postcard-perfect setting. But everything’s worth it if you have the time...
Buses: there are plenty, and they’re super cheap—but be warned, they stop everywhere, take forever, and are loud (though kind of charming in a vintage way). Too many buses can ruin a trip.
Lodges: affordable on a small budget, except in Managua and along the entire Caribbean coast! For example, beaches like El Tránsito (which is gorgeous) charge at least $50 or $60 per night for a basic room. Good to know.
In Matagalpa, we tried to rent a motorcycle to get around—impossible. I asked everywhere, but there was no way. So we cut our stay short because once you’ve explored Selva Negra, there’s not much else to do (an 8-hour bus ride to see a waterfall? No thanks). These might seem like small details, but they really matter when you want to enjoy where you are and discover nice spots—you end up stuck.
Bring plenty of mosquito spray + oral antihistamines: mosquitoes and bites are a *serious* nuisance. (I got over 200 bites in one go during a trip to a humid tropical forest, even though I was covered and protected.)
All in all, it’s an adventurous, exploratory trip. The people are great, and we never felt unsafe (even though some travelers have had *really* bad experiences). I thought there’d be a carnival since it was the right time of year—nothing. No dancing, not festive at all (compared to Brazil, for example, it’s the complete opposite).
We saw animals, but no toucans, for example!
For a beautiful, pristine, and well-organized trip, everyone agrees—go to Costa Rica, but be prepared to pay a lot more. Nicaragua is something else entirely. For surfers, though, it’s amazing! Personally, I love watching fish in clear, calm waters, hiking in nature, and swimming—I think I picked the wrong destination, but I’m glad I got to experience this totally wild side of Central America! :-)
Here’s our itinerary for 15 days in Guatemala.
Does it seem logical in terms of distances to avoid overly long trips? If not, which stop should we cut?
- Antigua
- Atitlán
- Lanquín
- Río Dulce
- El Remate – Flores
- Guatemala City
Could you help me estimate the approximate travel time for these routes by tourist bus or shuttle?
- Atitlán – Lanquín
- Lanquín – Río Dulce
- Río Dulce – El Remate
- Flores – Guatemala City
Hi everyone,
I’m so happy 🙂 to be traveling again after 5 years without a trip. I’m heading back to Costa Rica for 18 days from December 12th to 30th with a friend. We’re doing San José-Sarapiquí (2 nights), then Sarapiquí-Tortuguero (3 nights), then from Tortuguero heading to the Cahuita and Puerto Viejo area. We’ll spend about ten days in that region, then make a 2-day stop somewhere before flying back out of San José.
From what I’ve read on this blog, Puerto Viejo seems like the "rasta," party-friendly spot, which is honestly the kind of place I tend to avoid—too touristy. I’m looking for places surrounded by beautiful nature. I’ve already spent several weeks in Drake Bay (in 2019 and 10 years before that) and loved it. My friend also wants to visit the Bri Bri.
Could you recommend some authentic spots in this southern Caribbean area? Your favorite places—whether it’s sights to see, accommodations, or even your favorite little restaurants 😛?
What’s the most authentic way to visit the Bri Bri? What’s your take on that?
And finally, what beautiful stop would you recommend before heading back to San José?
A huge thank you to everyone!
Have a great day,
Zineb
We’d like to do a tour to Yaxchilan and Bonampak from Palenque, but it seems there are tons of travel agencies offering this tour. We’ve also read about a lot of disappointments... any recommendations?
Hi,
I’m heading to Cancun next January and I’m looking for a rental car.
I’m overwhelmed by all these cheap offers from sites like Booking, Carigami, and others...
Some reviews mention extra insurance fees that had to be paid on the spot.
I’d love to hear about your experiences—what company did you use? Were you charged any additional costs?
A lot of ads redirect to Touracancun, but they don’t seem trustworthy to me.
Thanks for your feedback!
My son is finishing up a year of working holiday in Canada soon. His plan is to take a bus from Montreal to Florida on 10/26, stay there for a few days, then fly to Cancun, Mexico. From there, he doesn’t have a precise plan yet, except to head down to Panama if the security situation in the countries he’ll cross allows it. Then, in March 2026, he’ll take a flight to Martinique, where he’d like to either find a sailboat (as crew) for the return transatlantic crossing (option 1) or do a sailing internship that includes the crossing (option 2).
So my questions are:
- Will he be able to re-enter Mexico without an exit date or proof of a flight back to Belgium? Would being able to prove his return by sailboat with a specific date (option 2, the sailing internship) make things easier?
- Are there any countries to avoid between Mexico and Panama? He’s traveling backpacker-style on a small budget.
Hi everyone, absolute travel lovers after our 20 trips to the USA, we’ve decided to head to Mexico in February (flight already booked: Nice to Cancun on February 20th, returning on the evening of March 1st).
I’m mainly hesitating about trying to do too much, as usual when discovering a new country. Here’s my itinerary—I’m unsure about a few things:
- **Day 1**: Should we stay relaxed at the resort we booked, or should we do Isla Mujeres instead? If we stay, when’s the best time to visit the island?
- **Day 3**: If we visit Chichén Itzá right at opening, will the Ik-Kil cenote be quieter in terms of tourists? If not, which cenote nearby would you recommend?
- **Big decision**: Should we go all the way down to Bacalar or not? After that, it feels a bit rushed. **Day 6** is mandatory, or are there other options? Honestly, I’m counting on your advice!
For context, we’re a family of four (with very grown-up kids who are used to traveling), and we’ve already rented an SUV for this period. Thanks in advance for your help—it’ll be invaluable!
**Departure – February 20th**: Arrival in Cancún
Arrival at 8:20 PM, pick up rental car.
Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 1 – February 21st**: Isla Mujeres
Ferry from Cancún to Isla Mujeres.
Playa Norte, snorkeling, golf cart tour.
Return to Cancún. Overnight in Cancún.
Drive (~3.5h). Settle in Tulum.
Visit the Mayan ruins of Tulum (stunning ocean view).
Swim in Gran Cenote or Cenote Calavera.
End the day at Playa Paraíso.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 6 – February 26th**: Sian Ka’an Reserve
Guided excursion:
Option Muyil (half-day): boat tour + swim in the Mayan canal.
Option Punta Allen (full-day): dolphins, turtles, snorkeling on the reef.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 7 – February 27th**: Tulum → Akumal → Playa del Carmen
Morning: snorkeling with turtles in Akumal.
Lunch, then drive to Playa del Carmen.
Evening on 5th Avenue.
Overnight in Playa del Carmen.
**Day 8 – February 28th**: Playa del Carmen → Puerto Morelos
Free morning in Playa del Carmen (beach or Cenotes Azul & Cristalino).
Afternoon: drive to Puerto Morelos (~30 min).
Overnight in Puerto Morelos.
**Day 9 – March 1st**: Puerto Morelos → Cancún → Return flight
Relaxing morning in Puerto Morelos.
Drive (~30 min) to Cancún Airport.
Return rental car. Return flight.
Back in 2002, we spent two weeks in Playa del Carmen. We did day trips to Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Chichén Itzá, Tulum, and Xcaret.
We’re heading back at Christmas with our two daughters, aged 15 and 19. I’m sure it’s changed a lot with the booming tourism.
Flights are booked: Paris-Cancún on 19/12 (arriving at 8:20 PM) and Cancún-Paris on 01/01 at 1:30 PM. We’re still finalizing the itinerary because we want to explore but don’t want to switch hotels too often. We’ll be there for 13 nights and 12 days, so we’re choosing among:
- Playa del Carmen
- Cozumel
- Holbox
- Valladolid
- Tulum
- Mahahual
We won’t do everything, so any tips would be great! I’m also unsure if renting a car is the best option.
Hi, can you tell me if there’s a bus or shuttle from Alajuela to the Nicaragua border via Los Chiles? I’d like to avoid going through San José.
Thanks for your help!
Bonjour amis de VF,
Je vais tenter de mettre ici des infos pratiques concernant notre voyage de 6 semaines au Guatemala, organisé par nous mêmes. du 14/01/2019 au 24/02/2019
Notre blog est aussi visible ici http://pamyguat2019.home.com Pour plus de photos et de détails.
Nous faisons le tour à l’inverse des aiguilles d’une montre.
Pour plus de photos et impressions 
