Chemin de la Plata (Séville-Compostelle)
by Rllchouchou
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour
Le 18 septembre 2011 partons à deux faire le chemin de la Plata : seville-St Jacques.
Si vous avez fait ce voyage récemment, merci de nous donner vos conseils , votre expérience sur hébergement, difficulté rencontrée etc... et mode de retour en France.
Merci et à bientôt
Régina
Je n'ai fait qu'un tout petit bout du chemin, exactement 117km, au printemps 2010. Je suis reparti de Burgos pour plusieurs raisons. Si la température avait été plus agréable j'aurais continué sur la via de la Plata. J'en étais à ma première expérience sur les chemins de St-Jacques. Un jour, assurément, je vais le refaire mais pas tôt au printemps. J'en étais à mon premeir voyage en Europe. J'ai eu un choc culturel - très positif. J'ai été déstabilisé, c'est cela que je recherchais.
Ce que je peux dire c'est que ce chemin est totalement différent du camino Francès. Le paysage est magnifique. Parfois les distances entre les auberges sont grandes. On ne peut pas se permettre de modifier les étapes comme bon nous semble: l'offre d'hébergement de type albergue n'est pas toujours adéquat - existant, à moins d'aller dans les hôtels ou les casas rurales.
Il faut prévoir des moyens pour traverser les gués. J'imagine qu'à l'automne les ruisseaux et les rivières seront à sec... Une des dernières étapes que j'ai parcourue n'avait, selon le guide, qu'un seul gué à traverser. Cela fait du bien aux pieds... mais rendu au sixième, l'eau glacial du printemps, plus haut que les genoux, a eu raison de moi.
À Séville, le pont Triana est le même que le pont Isabel II. Les habitants de la ville le connaissent sous le nom de Triana (ou c'est l'autre). Sur l'avenue Castilla, il y a des escaliers près d'un carrefour giratoire. Je les ai cherchées... Il y avait des camions garer devant. J'ai perdu un bon 45 minutes. La signalisation est parfois déficiente à Séville.
À Santiponce, il n'y a pas d'auberge. Il y a la Casa rural de madame Carmen. Charmante petite dame et très accueillante. Elle m'a interdit de me doucher. Elle me trouvait trop grand. Je fais 1.85 m. Elle a cru que j'étais Allemand!!! J'ai bien ri avec elle.
À Guillena, le refuge est situé derrière un bar et à coté d'un terrain de football. J'ai demandé les clés à la police. Ils sont venus m'ouvrir, ne m'ont pas remis les clés et le bar était fermé... Je suis resté pris à l'extérieur.
À Real de la Jara, je n'ai pas pu aller dormir à l'auberge... Il y avait eu fête durant la fin de semaine et le ménage n'avait pas été encore fait. J'ai dormi à l'hôtel.
Je n'ai pas aimé le gîte municipal de Los Santos de Maimona. Probablement parce qu'il se trouve en haut d'un monticule. Pour y accéder il y a plusieurs marches à gravir et je faisais une crise d'asthme. Ce fut le coup de grâce. Les clés se trouvent à trois km de l'endroit.
Honnêtement, je conserve de magnifiques souvenirs de la via de la Plata.
Ce que je peux dire c'est que ce chemin est totalement différent du camino Francès. Le paysage est magnifique. Parfois les distances entre les auberges sont grandes. On ne peut pas se permettre de modifier les étapes comme bon nous semble: l'offre d'hébergement de type albergue n'est pas toujours adéquat - existant, à moins d'aller dans les hôtels ou les casas rurales.
Il faut prévoir des moyens pour traverser les gués. J'imagine qu'à l'automne les ruisseaux et les rivières seront à sec... Une des dernières étapes que j'ai parcourue n'avait, selon le guide, qu'un seul gué à traverser. Cela fait du bien aux pieds... mais rendu au sixième, l'eau glacial du printemps, plus haut que les genoux, a eu raison de moi.
À Séville, le pont Triana est le même que le pont Isabel II. Les habitants de la ville le connaissent sous le nom de Triana (ou c'est l'autre). Sur l'avenue Castilla, il y a des escaliers près d'un carrefour giratoire. Je les ai cherchées... Il y avait des camions garer devant. J'ai perdu un bon 45 minutes. La signalisation est parfois déficiente à Séville.
À Santiponce, il n'y a pas d'auberge. Il y a la Casa rural de madame Carmen. Charmante petite dame et très accueillante. Elle m'a interdit de me doucher. Elle me trouvait trop grand. Je fais 1.85 m. Elle a cru que j'étais Allemand!!! J'ai bien ri avec elle.
À Guillena, le refuge est situé derrière un bar et à coté d'un terrain de football. J'ai demandé les clés à la police. Ils sont venus m'ouvrir, ne m'ont pas remis les clés et le bar était fermé... Je suis resté pris à l'extérieur.
À Real de la Jara, je n'ai pas pu aller dormir à l'auberge... Il y avait eu fête durant la fin de semaine et le ménage n'avait pas été encore fait. J'ai dormi à l'hôtel.
Je n'ai pas aimé le gîte municipal de Los Santos de Maimona. Probablement parce qu'il se trouve en haut d'un monticule. Pour y accéder il y a plusieurs marches à gravir et je faisais une crise d'asthme. Ce fut le coup de grâce. Les clés se trouvent à trois km de l'endroit.
Honnêtement, je conserve de magnifiques souvenirs de la via de la Plata.
C'est le plus beau des chemins (j'en ai fait trois)
voir site ci dessous indiqué où j'ai mentionné le ressenti des pèlerins que nous fûmes et les adresses de repas et hôtels
retour en France après avoir loué à Santiago une auto pour la rendre à Madrid et avion sur Nice
Nos parcours jacquaires et romieux ICI
Personnellement, j'ai parcouru le camino frances et le camino de la Plata. Deux chemins strictement différents. La Plata est peu fréquenté : du moins, en 2007 et en mai/juin. Très souvent (au vu des livres d'or), les gens l'empruntent en mars/avril par crainte de la chaleur ; le souci est qu'en cette période le temps peut être très désagréable (froid et pluie). Côté hébergements, pas de souci : jamais d'étapes à plus de 30 km/jour (et plus souvent entre 20 et 25 km) ; un très bon accueil partout (j'ai été remis sur le bon chemin par deux fois : travaux autoroutiers à l'époque qui avaient désorganisé le chemin) ; des villes magnifiques : Zafra, Mérida, Cáceres, Salamanca, Zamora, Orense, Santiago ; des hébergements de qualité (c'est à dire, comme sur tout chemin de Compostelle). Mais (et est-ce un mal ?), le fait que ce parcours soit moins fréquenté fait que la relation entre pèlerin et habitant est différente. Personnellement, cela ne m'a pas gêné.
Dernière précision : pas de difficulté physique majeure, et retour effectué par avion (destination finale Paris). Mais une personne rencontrée sur le camino est rentrée en bus par Eurolines (destination Lyon).
Buen camino
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This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont. The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
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We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots? Thanks in advance for your tips. We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries! Claire and Albert
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I’m looking for half-day hikes near Karakol (not Jety-Oguz, since I’ll be heading there separately—max 30 minutes’ drive to the trailhead).
I can find longer treks, but nothing for a short outing!
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We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
Hi there,
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
Hi there,
I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
hi there,
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
Hi,
I’d like some advice on doing the Camino de Santiago—or part of it—from the Basque Country.
Best,
Hi there,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.