Wild hikes and bears on Hokkaido Island, Japan
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
WI
Not very well known: Hokkaido Island has national parks that rival those in North America. Hiking there is free (even many mountain huts) and requires no formalities. These treks are described in the LP *Hiking in Japan* guide—you can just buy the Hokkaido PDF. It’s way better than Mount Fuji. Of course, everything depends on the weather, which is very unstable in the Japanese mountains (frequent strong winds). The trails are often obstacle courses.

The Daisetsu Zan traverse is a stunning hike through volcanic terrain with a remote section in the middle that requires at least one night of camping (there are basic huts for the rest, which is popular with Japanese hikers): 4 to 6 days.

The Shiretoko traverse takes 2 days with views including an island in Russia, but the ridge is brown bear territory—there are even more here than in Denali National Park in Alaska (brown bears and grizzlies are the same). I ran into 7 in just 6 hours of hiking!

I’m heading to Rebun and Rishiri Islands next.
KU Kujila Globetrotter ·
It's way better than Mount Fuji.

It's different, though...

For someone visiting Japan for the first time, I’d suggest spending two or three days near Fuji instead of planning a longer, more logistically challenging itinerary in Hokkaido...
SE Senmout Veteran ·
Thanks for this feedback! 🙂
il lui suffisait de voir une carte pour se mettre à l'étudier avec passion, puis, invariablement, il commençait à projeter quelque nouveau voyage impossible, qui, parfois, se transformait en réalité. » PAUL BOWLES : « Un Thé au Sahara »
CH Cheechako Veteran ·
Thanks for this interesting info.

Crossing Shiretoko—better than Mount Fuji? As Kujila said, they’re really different, so not quite comparable. But anyway, only someone who’s done both can really say. And since I haven’t done either...

Could you tell me a bit more about this trail? Is there a mountain hut at the trailhead? Is it close to Iwaobetsu Onsen? (Is this onsen open to the public?) We’re heading to Hokkaido in a few days—this’ll be my third trip to the island, but the first two were in winter. I’m hoping to spot one or two *higuma* (is that the right word?) but at this time of year, they should be closer to the sea, near salmon rivers. Thanks. PS: In Alaska, the highest density of brown bears isn’t in Denali NP but in Katmai NP and on Kodiak Island. But the world’s highest density is debated between Alaska and the Russian Far East...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/135039272@N03/
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Yes, there's a free onsen in the wild at Iwaboetsu, and also a mountain hut, but I didn't stay there. To cross over to Io Zan, you'll need to camp for one night. At the bottom, when you arrive, you can also bathe for free in the warm waterfalls. At the Nature Centre, they give out a trek map in Japanese.
CH Cheechako Veteran ·
Thanks! Sorry to ask for more details, If you remember: Is the hut Kinoshita Hut? But is the trailhead several kilometers further on? And the warm waterfalls are at the end, so on the other side: Kumano Yu, near the Rausu onsen? There’s something I don’t get: IoZan isn’t the traverse, it’s a round-trip from Rausu Dake, right? So if we add that round-trip, is it still two days?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/135039272@N03/
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Yes, the Kinoshita Hut—it’s right by the trail, but it’s a one-hour walk from the main road and the bus stop. You’re not talking about the same traverse. Climbing Rausudake and descending to Rausu is doable in a day. I did the wild ridge traverse at the summit, with bears, on IoZan, then descended to Kamuiwakka Falls, just like the LP hiking guide describes.
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
In the meantime, I also visited Akan National Park, Lake Akan, and Mount Oakan—it was less impressive. I preferred Lake Kussharo, which is more preserved, with free hot springs. I’ve now also climbed the volcano on Rishiri Island, doing the traverse—really great (in good weather).
CH Cheechako Veteran ·
Thanks.

You're not talking about the same crossing.

Right! I understand better now. But I thought this crossing was no longer allowed, since the climb from Kamuiwakka Falls has been closed to the public a few hundred meters above. And then the 10 km access trail from the junction to the Five Lakes—would it only be open to hikers and cyclists? Quite a challenge overall, with a good bit of elevation gain!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/135039272@N03/
CH Cheechako Veteran ·
Hi!

Meanwhile, I also visited Akan National Park, Lake Akan, and Mount Oakan—it was less impressive. I preferred Lake Kussharo, which is more pristine, with free hot springs.

Oh yes, of course, I already know the Wakoto onsen—at -17°C in the early morning, amazing! And I definitely plan to go back.

I’ve now also climbed the volcano on Rishiri Island, doing the traverse—really great (in good weather).

I’ve heard great things about it, but it’ll have to wait for another time. Between Daisetsuzan NP, Shiretoko, Akan, and Kussharo, we’ve got plenty to explore.

Lake Kussharo

Singing swans in the steam from the onsen.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/135039272@N03/
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
This hike is open. The descent from Iozan doesn’t reach the waterfalls but ends 500 meters further on. The road to the waterfalls is open to cars, and the bus service only runs during high season, including the mid-September holiday week. I hitched a ride back to the Five Lakes.
CH Cheechako Veteran ·
The descent from Iozan doesn’t reach the waterfalls but ends 500 meters further on.

Thanks, because that’s a "detail" that can make a difference!

The road to the waterfalls is open to cars, but the bus service only runs in high season, including the mid-September holiday week. I hitchhiked back to the Five Lakes.

Actually, based on what I found online (http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6851.html), the buses only run from August 1 to 25 and from September 16 to 23. During that period, car access is banned (I guess having both cars and buses at the same time would be too much). We’ll plan accordingly. Enjoy the rest of your trip in Hokkaido! Where’s your next trail headed?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/135039272@N03/
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Two photos of Rishiri Island, from below and from the summit, and one photo with three bears in the clearing right on the ridge trail in Shiretoko.
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
More photos of the scenery on the hikes in Daisetsuzan and Shiretoko
CH Cheechako Veteran ·
Hello! Thanks for these photos. But the bear picture is really blurry. I can see a shape on the left, very close to the trail, and two others on the right. Are those the bears? I guess your camera gear was super lightweight, though. This time of year and on that terrain, I think they were "berry picking"?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/135039272@N03/
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
I only have a tablet. Not sure what they eat up there on the ridges—there doesn’t seem to be much around.
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Practical info: at Asahikawa Station there’s a great AEON supermarket. Much better than at Sapporo Station, where there’s a small shop selling expensive imported goods, including pasta, Italian sauces, Belgian chocolate, etc. For gas, there’s a Montbell store 5 minutes from Sapporo Station. They also sell maps, but for those, there’s a big bookstore 2 minutes to the right of the station.
CH Cheechako Veteran ·
Hey, Got it about the tablet... About the bears: I think up there they were eating berries, which should be plentiful in late summer. Did you notice if there were berries like blueberries or lingonberries? That’s what surprised me when you said you saw quite a few bears on the ridges, because usually during the salmon runs (I think that’s the season in Hokkaido), bears gather by the rivers where the salmon swim upstream, so near the sea. But I might be totally wrong since I know Alaska bears pretty well, but I still don’t know anything about the ones in Japan (and I hope to fill that gap soon).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/135039272@N03/
CH Cheechako Veteran ·
Hi! Thanks for these practical tips. So far, I’ve only had experience with Seicomart and 7-Eleven... Especially for Asahikawa, since we’re not going through Sapporo: we land in Kushiro the day after tomorrow.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/135039272@N03/
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
I'm in the Japanese Alps now—beautiful hikes (following the ridges too), but compared to Hokkaido, it's crowded here.
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
I spent 5 days in the mountains at Murodo and Kamikochi, including ascents of Tateyama, Tsurugidake, and Yarigatake. If you're interested, feel free to ask me any questions here.
LI LindaBorto ·
Hi there,

I’m planning a 2–3 month solo hike this summer (2016) and Hokkaido has caught my eye. I’m a big fan of spots that stay off the beaten path and feel authentic, and what you’ve described sounds amazing! Could you tell me where I might find reliable hiking maps for the region to prep for my trip? Is it possible to do a non-stop trek (like a loop or a traverse) for 2–3 months on Hokkaido?

Thanks for your tips! Linda
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
No, there isn't enough wilderness for 2 or 3 months in Hokkaido—it's more for all of Japan. You can buy the LP *Hiking in Japan* guide. As for Japanese trekking maps, it seems tough to get them anywhere but Japan.

In the Japanese Alps, there are *tons* of hikers, though.

A country where you can find no one and long hikes: Tajikistan.
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
This year, I went on several more hikes in the Northern and Southern Japanese Alps (including Hakusan, Kitadake, and Shiroumadake), as well as the Kohechi route of the Kumano Kodo. I might write a separate report about them—feel free to ask me questions, especially since it seems the *Hiking in Japan* guide PDFs are no longer available.
ME Mellone Veteran ·
Your Japan updates are so interesting—it’s making me want to go if I can find a spot in my schedule! He he Did you go in August or September? Does October seem doable?

Thanks, François
http://myovoo.blogspot.fr/
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
I was there in August and September, and in July. I don’t know about October, but for Hokkaido, it seems too late to me.
ML Mlefevre Globetrotter ·
Hi Pierre, Under family pressure (...) I’m starting to think about a trip to Japan. I hate cities, and I’ve been really interested in your post about Hokkaido, where you also mention the Japanese Alps. For a 3-week stay, do you think it’s feasible to explore a bit of all these regions? My gut tells me it’d be better to focus on just one... but which one? Given that we’re not into temples or overly manicured nature, and we’re claustrophobic in forests—preferring open landscapes. For the season, anything’s possible... Finally, a slightly provocative question: if we’re mostly interested in nature and not very receptive to cultural differences, is it still worth going all that way? Thanks for your reply! Marie
Nos voyages en images : https://www.sibellelaterre.fr/
KU Kujila Globetrotter ·
I hate cities

Given that we’re pretty averse to temples and overly manicured nature, and we’re claustrophobic in forests

That’s quite a few constraints for Japan 😉!

Forests are plentiful and very dense. Most of the time, it’s more like a jungle. It’s often downright impossible to walk through them off the roads.

When there are trails, they’re usually somewhat developed... But hey, Japan is a very natural country, but also very forested (and very mountainous too).

One last slightly provocative question: if we’re mainly interested in nature and not very receptive to cultural change, is it really worth going so far?

One of the appeals of Japan for us Europeans is obviously the cultural change... If that’s not what you’re looking for, you might want to aim for Ardèche, Périgord, or Corsica instead...
ML Mlefevre Globetrotter ·
Hi Fred,

Just heading to Corsica in a few days! You’ve reinforced my idea that you need to be open to cultural immersion to really enjoy a trip to Japan—and that nature alone might disappoint us (though I could be wrong...).

Anyway, I’ll keep looking into it... Thanks for your input! Marie
Nos voyages en images : https://www.sibellelaterre.fr/
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Hiking in Hokkaido is way quieter than in the Japanese Alps, where there are lots of mountain huts and crowds of Japanese hikers. In both cases, the hikes follow the open ridge tops with great views—the forest is lower down. So I’d recommend the Daisetsu Zan traverse, Shiretoko, and possibly Rishiri and Rebun. Japan is still a cultural change of scenery, even if that’s not the main goal of the trip. You might want to look into Alaska.
ML Mlefevre Globetrotter ·
Thanks Pierre! Based on my initial reading, the spots you mentioned are the ones I’d probably prefer. We went to Alaska a few years ago, after considering Kamchatka, actually. But Kamchatka seemed too complicated/adventurous for a family trip without speaking Russian, and too expensive/restrictive when going through a local agency.
Nos voyages en images : https://www.sibellelaterre.fr/
BL Bluequark Veteran ·
Hi Marie,

I hope you don’t mind me jumping into your conversation. We went to Japan this summer—not Hokkaido, but partly in the Japanese Alps. We loved it, especially for the cultural change of scenery. We visited Kamikochi, which is really pretty but *super* developed—definitely not the kind of place you usually go. Okay, fine, we just did a walk along the river, and you *can* do more challenging stuff there, but I still think it’s way more developed than what you’re used to.

One idea to look into: Shikoku, with the pilgrimage trail (no idea how much forest there is, though 😉). Good luck with your research!
Bluequark

Carnets : Namibie, Laos-Perhentias-BKK, Ouest US, Lanzarote, New-York, Berlin, Cuba, Bardenas Reales, AFS -Lesotho-Swaziland, Japon et le dernier né Colombie: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/ete-2017-trois-semaines-en-colmobie-en-famille-d10108246/
ML Mlefevre Globetrotter ·
Hi Cécile, Thanks for your input! So I gather I should approach Japan with different expectations than I usually have... Not sure I can find the motivation to endure a 12-hour flight for a trip that only moderately appeals to me so far. But I remember Fred had to insist for our first trip to the US—I didn’t want to go! Do you plan to make a travel journal for Japan? Cheers, Marie
Nos voyages en images : https://www.sibellelaterre.fr/
CH Cheechako Veteran ·
Hello, Sorry to barge in like this... I’ve been to Hokkaido three times—twice in winter and once in September with my wife—and I completely agree with Willemspie’s point of view. Whether at Daisezutsan or Shiretoko, it was crowded. Maybe for them, it was actually peak season ("Autumn leaves"). But in Shiretoko, the crowds stopped at the famous "Five Lakes" site, and as soon as you moved toward the ridges, you were pretty much alone. Maybe because of the real bear paranoia (we did run into some). Around lakes Mashu, Akan, or Kussharo, though, it was very peaceful. And the cultural change of scenery alone could justify the trip.







https://www.flickr.com/photos/135039272@N03/
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
If you just want to do a short trek in the Japanese Alps to take a look, I’d suggest the Southern Alps—Kitodake, Ainodake, or Mt. Houou, because - they’re close and quick to get to from Tokyo - great views of Mt. Fuji.
ML Mlefevre Globetrotter ·
Great photos, Cheechako, thanks for dropping in! Since you're a camper van enthusiast, do you think this island would be a good fit for that?

@Willemspie: thanks for these new trails—I’ll check them out!
Nos voyages en images : https://www.sibellelaterre.fr/
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
No camper van—you’ve got to hike the ridges and either camp there or stay in a mountain hut (for the Daisetsu Zan traverse, one night of camping is mandatory, and the Iosan to Shiretoko traverse also has no huts).
ML Mlefevre Globetrotter ·
Actually, I was thinking of using a camper van as a base camp for day hikes or even occasional 1- to 3-day treks, rather than renting a car so we’d have more freedom to adapt our route based on the weather. I get that the heart of the parks is only accessible on foot.
Nos voyages en images : https://www.sibellelaterre.fr/
CH Cheechako Veteran ·
Hello Marie, Yes, based on our limited experience, I’d say this island is actually a great fit for that. We saw very few classic camper vans (European or American style), but a lot more large minivans and station wagons that were more or less converted. Because we discovered that sleeping in your vehicle is a really common and totally accepted way to travel here. Some parking lots, like in Utoro, are packed with over a dozen vehicles by evening, where people spend the night and then use the super comfortable and spotlessly clean public restrooms in the morning. Even the tiny 600cc cars that are everywhere are sometimes cleverly turned into "camper vans" for one person. Renting a proper camper van is possible, but it’s not very common on Hokkaido (except apparently in Sapporo). That said, it has the same downside as anywhere else: the great independence it gives you also means you might miss out on connecting with locals. And skipping the experience of minshuku (kind of like B&Bs) and ryokan (fancier, with onsens), or even hostels, would be a real shame in my opinion. We mixed it up: hostels, minshuku, camping, and sleeping in our rental car, depending on the place and the weather. And we’ll definitely do it again with just as much joy on our next trip. P.S. Thanks for your kind words about the photos. I forgot the captions: No. 1 Lake Kussharo No. 2 Asahi Dake and its fumaroles No. 3 in the heart of Daisetsuzan National Park No. 4 the rare Blakiston’s fish owl (Shiretoko NP).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/135039272@N03/
BL Bluequark Veteran ·
Hi Marie,

Japan is so different from what we know that we spent our whole trip with our eyes wide open. The Japanese are also super friendly. And you’ll have plenty of opportunities for great photos. Just a heads-up, traveling as a family can be quite expensive. I’m not talking about our trip, where I splurged on a few unreasonable extras 😉 (I found myself plenty of excuses for that😛 ), but in general. The main reason is that, unlike other countries, accommodation for four is almost double the price of accommodation for two (within 10%), even with family rooms. Otherwise, yes, I’m thinking of keeping a travel journal, but as you know, I’m really slow. So when... If you have any questions, don’t hesitate. Also, don’t hesitate to learn a few Japanese words (there’s a course for foreigners on the NHK website). Guaranteed success!!

Have a good evening
Bluequark

Carnets : Namibie, Laos-Perhentias-BKK, Ouest US, Lanzarote, New-York, Berlin, Cuba, Bardenas Reales, AFS -Lesotho-Swaziland, Japon et le dernier né Colombie: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/ete-2017-trois-semaines-en-colmobie-en-famille-d10108246/
ML Mlefevre Globetrotter ·
Thanks Cheechako for this new info. These mini RVs don’t really excite me. I think if I’m not going to be fully self-sufficient, I’d rather camp (car + tent) to have a bit more space, alternating with a few solid accommodations...
Nos voyages en images : https://www.sibellelaterre.fr/
ML Mlefevre Globetrotter ·
Hey Cécile, Well, I’ll wait as patiently as I can (not my strong suit!) for your future travel journal! For now, I still haven’t had that "aha moment" to decide to go to Japan... Gotta keep researching!
Nos voyages en images : https://www.sibellelaterre.fr/
BL Bluequark Veteran ·
Hi Marie,

I get it 😉. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask...
Bluequark

Carnets : Namibie, Laos-Perhentias-BKK, Ouest US, Lanzarote, New-York, Berlin, Cuba, Bardenas Reales, AFS -Lesotho-Swaziland, Japon et le dernier né Colombie: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/ete-2017-trois-semaines-en-colmobie-en-famille-d10108246/
MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
I’ve been thinking about Hokkaido for a while now—that’s why I came to "check it out." On the other hand, Patagonia or even Ethiopia (where we were in October) fit your criteria better 😉
https://apprentisvoyageurs.com
ML Mlefevre Globetrotter ·
Hey JF! Yeah, definitely, or Mongolia! 😉 Have a great weekend! Marie
Nos voyages en images : https://www.sibellelaterre.fr/
LE Leounet73 ·
This year, I did several more hikes in the Northern and Southern Japanese Alps (including Hakusan, Kitadake, and Shiroumadake), as well as the Kohechi route of the Kumano Kodo. I might write a separate report about them—feel free to ask me questions, especially since the *Hiking in Japan* guide PDFs seem to no longer be available.

Hi Willemspie! We’re heading to Japan in July and are really excited about the Kohechi route. Could you tell us a bit more about it? Is the hike worth it? How did you handle accommodations? How many stages are there? What’s the weather like, and what’s the best time to go? Basically, anything that could help us out. Thanks in advance
Leounet
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
In July, it's really hot. Except when it rains heavily. All the info, including maps for the 4 stages and accommodations, is on the site http://www.tb-kumano.jp/fr/. I booked through them (even though they charge a commission). For the night in Koyasan before the hike, it's a different site. There’s no choice for the first and second nights—it’s 100% typically Japanese. It’s very remote; I didn’t meet anyone. But the environment isn’t exceptional—just secondary forest the whole way. If you’re only planning one hike, I’d recommend the Japanese Alps instead.
LE Leounet73 ·
Thanks for your quick reply. You're right, the site is really well done. Thanks, it's perfect. For the Japanese Alps, we weren't super motivated since we live in the French Alps (in Savoie). So, we wanted to see something different. Can you tell me how many stages you did and, the icing on the cake, the elevation gain? Thanks again.
Leounet
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Kohechi is 4 stages. There's a small pass each day. On the maps on the site, I think the altitudes are shown.
FR Fredtno ·
bonjour et pour la nourriture avais tu emmené des lyo de france ?végé?

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