Solo female travel to Iran, departure March 2015
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
JO
Hi everyone, I’m really keen to visit Iran for three weeks in mid-March 2015. What worries me a bit isn’t so much traveling alone—I’m used to it and know the Middle East well—but rather the current events (Islamic State) that could potentially become dangerous. Flights are pretty cheap at the moment, and I’d like to book before prices go up.

Any advice from people who know the ground situation and Iranian current affairs better than I do would be much appreciated! :)
ST Stille Regular ·
If I were you, I’d hold off... it’d just be more prudent, we don’t know how the conflict’s gonna play out.
ME Meg2 Globetrotter ·
Iraq has been a dangerous country for years, while Iran has remained very safe. For a long time, Shia Iran has been the best enemy of the wealthy Sunni kingdoms that supported and exported Al Qaeda... The only "risky" areas in Iran were a few border zones with Pakistan and Afghanistan; you might want to avoid the areas near the Iraqi border from now on. But I don’t think this will affect safety in the rest of the country.

That said, if the conflict escalates to the point where the armed groups currently taking over Iraq trigger an open war with Iran, it won’t be a great idea to go there. If you don’t want to risk losing the cost of your flight ticket, get travel insurance—but only after checking that the policy doesn’t exclude war as a reason for cancellation.
JO Jordanscam Regular ·
Yeah, that's the whole issue—my insurance doesn’t cover war zones, and as far as I know, I don’t think any insurance covers that risk :(
CO Cocottte Veteran ·
In my humble opinion, Iran is one of the last stable countries in the region... What would be worrying is an ISIS attack on the country, but I think they already have enough fronts to deal with at the moment between Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, and Western bombings... Plus, they know that unlike the countries where they’re currently fighting, the Iranian state is strong. Maybe avoid the Iraqi, Pakistani, and Afghan borders, sure, but hey....

If the airfare isn’t too expensive, you’re not taking a huge risk...

But I could be wrong! 🏴‍☠️
"On voyage pour changer, non de lieu, mais d'idées." Hippolyte Taine Mes photos: http://clairette-82.myportfolio.com/projects
JO Jordanscam Regular ·
this just came out today :(

http://www.lesechos.fr/monde/afrique-moyen-orient/0203794661493-letat-islamique-appelle-a-tuer-des-francais-1045255.php

and I’m leaving for Jordan soon... I’ve been traveling to Jordan for a long time, and I don’t feel like I’m putting myself in danger by going there right now.

That said, I *do* have doubts about Iran, mainly because of ISIS. Still thinking it over before deciding
CO Cocottte Veteran ·
The Islamic "State" is establishing itself in Sunni areas, in Iraq, Syria, ... and Lebanon. It seems they’re also in northern Jordan, but you’re in a better position than I am to know that.

Iran is overwhelmingly Shia. ISIS might find some internal support in Iran’s Sunni regions that oppose the central government, but I can’t imagine for a second that Iran’s Shia population would join the takfiris.

For now, at least, ISIS is fighting to establish itself in Sunni regions where there’s opposition to the central government, not to attack other countries (aside from terrorist attacks). Again, Iran is their worst enemy, but I don’t see what they’d go there to do...
"On voyage pour changer, non de lieu, mais d'idées." Hippolyte Taine Mes photos: http://clairette-82.myportfolio.com/projects
ME Meg2 Globetrotter ·
Still, it’s true that I have doubts about Iran, just because of ISIS, really.

Why Iran in particular?

In the West, we often don’t understand the difference between Shia and Sunni Muslims—we lump everything into the same "Islamist" basket (and the "-ist" suffix isn’t always very meaningful, by the way). Iran is a predominantly Shia country where Al Qaeda and affiliated groups have no foothold and enjoy no sympathy or support, neither from the central government (which is actually quite strong in Iran...) nor from the population (even among the opposition). As Cocottte said, it’s not very realistic to think ISIS would attack Iran under these conditions.

The only uncertainty is what Iran would do if ISIS fanatics ransacked the Shia pilgrimage cities near the Iranian border (Kerbala and Najaf). But even in that scenario, the conflict would most likely stay localized.
DN Dniorthe Veteran ·
hi,

I think going to Iran, even in a few months, is a smart and fairly safe choice. I’m not sure I’d say the same about Egypt... even though there are way more tourists in that area... If you know Jordan well, it shouldn’t be any more of an issue than that.

Dominique
RO Rose086 Regular ·
Hi, Honestly, the only question you need to ask yourself is: "Am I prepared to lose the money I’ve invested in the flight ticket?" If the answer’s NO, don’t buy it; if it’s YES, then go ahead... and you’ll see, when the time comes, whether it’s safe to travel. Because honestly, those who answer you with certainty today about what’s going to happen in that region in a few months aren’t really worth listening to. We’re subjected (by public authorities and the media in general) to a lot of misinformation about this part of the world, and I truly believe no one can reasonably claim that a Western woman won’t face any risks traveling to Iran next April. (Who would’ve thought, just a week ago, that a French person could be at risk hiking near Tizi Ouzou in Kabylie?) No one can say for sure how alliances will shift, given the massive geopolitical stakes, and—let’s be humble—neither VF’s friends nor I can answer the question you’re asking.
JO Jordanscam Regular ·
I actually think you're absolutely right, Rose086. No one can really predict, so it's up to me to see if I risk losing my flight ticket, or if I postpone this trip and choose a destination that seems politically safer for now :) It’ll just be postponed for another time...
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
No one can formally predict how the alliances will evolve, given the colossal geopolitical stakes.

Still, there are a few axes and/or antagonisms that have held for centuries.

For example, the antagonism between Shias and Sunnis.

Certainly, the Iranian regime is an "Islamic Republic," which Western media hastily translated as "Islamist." But it’s a very pale form of Islam compared to what’s practiced on the other side of the Persian Gulf, particularly in Saudi Arabia—yet no one ever calls that Islamist.

I largely agree with the previous comments and don’t believe there’s any "Daesh"-style danger in Iran. Not even in the Sunni regions, which the central government keeps under tight control.

Moreover, the pride of the average Iranian, their disdain for the Arab world, doesn’t favor any alignment with this "Islamic State." Even for a Sunni in the peripheral regions.

For context, in 2001, Iranians proved to be the best U.S. partners in Afghanistan. Not widely known, but this temporary alliance was very effective, especially in the Herat region. Meanwhile, Bush was launching his diatribes against the "axis of evil," which included Iran.

Iran and the West have far more interests in common than with the rest of the Middle East. In the long run, these interests will outweigh the Iranian-American dispute, which largely stems from the humiliation of the 1979 U.S. embassy affair.

In my view, the main risks when visiting Iran are: - road accidents (with a reckless *savari* driver), - earthquakes, - falling in love with an Iranian woman (if you're a man, obviously).

The terrorist risk in Iran is negligible—far lower than in India (see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_terrorist_incidents_in_India). Yet no tourist in India worries about it.

Have a great trip to Iran!

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
MI Michel77220 Regular ·
hi Peggy

I’d recommend you go (I got back the day before yesterday). It’s a beautiful country, the people are lovely, and it’s really easy to travel there.

Just a reminder that they’re Shia Muslims.

Ask me specific questions—I’ll answer!

michel
JO Jordanscam Regular ·
Thanks Michel, everyone’s replies really reassure me about this choice. I’m thinking of doing a 3-week trip at the end of March/beginning of April.
MI Michel77220 Regular ·
happy to help with any advice

including if you need guides in Shiraz, Persepolis, or Isfahan hotels, transport

the Iranians don’t deserve the reputation their country has
JO Jordanscam Regular ·
All tips are welcome. Thanks for sharing them in this forum—it’s really nice of you. 🙂
MI Michel77220 Regular ·
My girlfriend and I left on September 6th for a flight from Paris to Shiraz: - Shiraz - Persepolis, Necropolis - Shahad, the Kaluts, Mahan, Rayen, Kerman - Yazd, Kharanaq, Chak Chak, Meybod - Isfahan - Kashan, Abyaneh - Tehran

Returning Tuesday the 23rd, Tehran to Paris.

I loved this country! The only issue for you ladies: wearing a headscarf over your hair.
JO Jordanscam Regular ·
Thanks for the hotel and guide info... can you tell me more?
MI Michel77220 Regular ·
of course

I used the services of a French-speaking guide in Shiraz a young architect-guide in Isfahan

if you want to contact them on my behalf - no problem

I have hotel addresses

regarding transport (buses), the schedules are respected, the prices are very low (Shiraz - Kerman around $5) buses are really great

Iran is a super clean country

eating = $3 to $4 is great, food is very good and enjoyable you can drink tap water, it's good and fresh etc

let me know where you need help
CL Clemetcoco ·
Hey vf crew,

We (my partner and I) are in India right now. We’re leaving Delhi for Shiraz on October 10th, then planning to head up to Tehran and make our way to Turkey. From there, we’ll cross Turkey to get back to Europe. Do you think the area around Tabriz and the Turkish border is risky? And what about the risk of terrorist acts on the eastern Turkish side? If so, is it possible to cross from Iran into Armenia at the border?

We’d prefer not to change our return route, but the situation is starting to feel worrying.

Thanks for your replies
MI Mikaelsetti ·
Hi,

Regarding your post and the various comments.

Having lived in Iran for a year and a half, working in education and tourism, I’d like to share my take: come to Iran—it’s an amazing destination, far from the stereotypes. The people are incredibly welcoming, the scenery is unique, and there’s so much to see.

The terrorist threat or Daesh isn’t a concern here. It’s actually much safer than Paris, and don’t bother trying to tell me otherwise—IT’S A FACT!!!

So don’t hesitate—take the leap and ignore the media’s portrayal, which, let’s face it, only spouts nonsense to serve their masters!!!! Travel, listen to locals’ opinions and perspectives, and let’s not pretend we’re in any position to lecture them or change their lives!!! Interference isn’t the answer; people should be able to self-determine, and that’s their business.

For any info, I’m available.

Mikael
IR IranianGirl ·
I just got back from Tehran, and honestly, Iran is calm and there’s no particular danger. I’m Iranian, so I’m used to the situation there, but this time I brought my 5-month-old son and my French husband. It was his third trip to Iran since 2009. He’s someone cautious, so he made sure his health insurance (repatriation, etc.) works well in Iran, and that’s it. After that, we only stayed in Tehran, but I follow the news about Iran and I don’t feel there are risks to traveling in Iran—except near the borders with Pakistan, Afghanistan, and recently Iraq.
Venez à Téhéran Restez chez Mizban*! -- *Mizban(en Farsi)=Hôte (d'une chambre d'hôte)
MA Madgic83 ·
Hello Is your trip only possible in March?
JO Jordanscam Regular ·
Hi Madgic83, After a long hesitation, I’ve decided on a different destination. I’m keeping Iran for a future trip.
DépartLune ·
Hi, I’m leaving in two weeks from Azerbaijan (where my husband works) to Iran with our 3-and-a-half-year-old son. I can’t hide my worries, even though my husband is completely calm, because our son is still really little. I’d love to hear from someone who’s recently been to Iran about how safe the country is. I know it obviously depends on the type of trip you take, and we’ll be driving and visiting the main tourist sites while avoiding getting close to the borders with all the other countries since they’re all very "sensitive." The closest city to Iraq, for example, will be Tabriz, then we’ll stay relatively in the center, heading south before returning to Azerbaijan. Do you think the current situation means we shouldn’t make this trip????? Thanks to you and anyone who can reply based on their recent experience (more than just info from the media!!!!) Thanks
MI Michel77220 Regular ·
hi Alessandra

I went to Iran in September 2014 I found the country very safe

here’s my itinerary: Paris-Shiraz flight out then Kerman, Yazd, Isfahan return from Tehran

all intercity connections by bus small hotels found on Lonely Planet

people were very welcoming, as kind as can be just one thing—as a woman, you’ll need to wear a headscarf

now, I’m leaving for Azerbaijan, Georgia, and returning from Armenia in May this year

do you have any tips or info? thanks in advance

I’m happy to share any info about Iran

michel
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
The closest city to Iraq, for example, will be Tabriz, then we stay relatively in the center while continuing south before returning to Azerbaijan.

Hi Alessandra!

Since you’re coming from Azerbaijan, here are some must-see recommendations: - Ardabil, not to be missed for the stunning Safi-od Din sanctuary. - The Arax Valley, which you can follow up to Jolfa. Take a slight detour from the main road to visit the lovely village of Ushtebin—a terraced village like Masuleh but with no tourists at all. - Armenian monasteries, especially St. Stephanos near Jolfa and Kara Kelisa. If you’re driving, you can go directly from one to the other without passing through Tabriz—there’s a road. The Dzorzor chapel is less known, even by locals in Maku. If it interests you, plan your route carefully.

Of course, the Soltaniyeh mausoleum is also a must-see.

Takht-e Suleiman is quite off the Tabriz-Tehran highway but worth the visit if you love archaeology.

As for your young son, it seems a member named Bahrein traveled last year with young children, and another member was in your situation. No difficulties were reported, so they traveled without any particular issues.

I’d like to hear from someone who’s recently been to Iran about safety in the country.

In my opinion, the main risks for your family will be: 1) The driving habits of some reckless Iranian drivers. 2) Earthquakes. 3) The beauty and charm of many Iranian women.

Fabrice

P.S.: I don’t think the proximity to Iraq is currently an issue in border areas. The Iranian army is quite present in that sector. Anyway, a strip of about 5 km along the border is off-limits to foreigners, except at official border crossings. In the past, occasional unrest in the area was caused by Kurdish separatists. Facing Daesh, Iraqi Kurds now have other priorities than supporting their Iranian "cousins."
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
DépartLune ·
Thanks so much, Michel! I don’t think things have really gotten worse between September 2014 and now! As for the headscarf, it’s just a small detail since I don’t mind wearing it at all—I adapt and respect all "customs" without any problem...

I’ve been commuting to Azerbaijan for three years now, and there are some amazing places to see (too bad I have tons of photos on FB I could’ve shown you!). One place I *loved* is Xinaliq, right on the Russian border, perched in the mountains—people still live there like they did a hundred years ago... Laza, also on the Russian border, is worth seeing too. Baku is a tale of two cities, as you can imagine (oil country... extreme wealth and extreme poverty!!!). The Candy Cane Mountain area is a must-see, and the mud volcanoes aren’t far from Baku—they’re pretty unique. Let me know which areas you’re planning to visit...

As for Georgia, unfortunately, I’ve only seen Tbilisi! For Armenia, I don’t know how you plan to get around, but do some research and be careful if your passport has Azerbaijani visas—the wars between these two countries are "silent" but still ongoing.

Thanks again for your info on Iran, and I’m happy to help if you need any tips on Azerbaijan. Have a great evening!
DépartLune ·
Thanks so much, Fabrice! Your reply has tons of valuable info, so I’ll be tweaking our itinerary based on what you said. You also think there’s no safety issue—I’m feeling a bit more reassured now. :-) Thanks again! Have a great evening!
DépartLune ·
Thank you all for your precious help and useful information. This trip to Iran was pure magic, breathtakingly beautiful, and I can confirm what I’ve read so often (from people who’ve actually been there!!): Iranians are truly warm and incredibly kind. It’s a shame that in the West, Iran’s reputation is nothing like what it deserves!!!!! Thanks again to everyone!!!!! :-)
MI Michel77220 Regular ·
hi Alessandra

so glad you loved Iran! what a magnificent country, and such a welcoming people. we’ve got to keep spreading the word.

always happy to help if you need any tips for another trip.

best,

michel
DépartLune ·
Thanks so much, Michel!!! That’s really kind of you!! Yes, we really need to spread the word because everyone I met there truly deserves to be seen as they really are—warm and incredibly kind—and we in the West deserve to stop having our eyes blindfolded and our minds manipulated by fear and baseless alarmist rhetoric. It’s so sad!!! I hope your trip to Baku went well!!! Thanks again, and likewise, if you need any info, just let me know! See you soon!
JA Jacquelinepr Regular ·
I know Jordan well, and I’d be more wary of it than Iran. French people who get involved on all fronts aren’t very welcome there and risk retaliation from Islamists.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Iranians are truly warm and touchingly kind. It's a shame that in the West, Iran's reputation is nothing like what it deserves!!!!!

It's important to distinguish between interpersonal relationships, which are excellent for travelers in Iran, and intergovernmental relations, which are at the very least troubled. The Iranian regime's past actions (instrumentalizing terrorist groups) play a big role in this, even though Western countries also share some of the blame (e.g., France refusing to deliver contractually owed enriched uranium or buy back Iran's stake in the enrichment plant).

Thank you all for your precious help and useful information. This trip to Iran was magically special, breathtakingly beautiful, and I confirm what I’ve often read (from people who’ve actually been there!!)

For future travelers, what were your favorite places? In particular, did you get the chance to visit any of the sites I recommended, like Ardabil, the Aras Valley, the lovely village of Ushtebin, the Armenian monasteries of St. Stephanos, Kara Kelisa, and the Dzorzor chapel, the Soltaniyeh mausoleum, or the Takht-e Suleiman site?

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
CE Cecileflamen Regular ·
Hello! I’m planning to go to Iran in October with my husband and one of my sons! Did you end up going to Iran? How did it go?
MA Madgic83 ·
Hello, did you end up going?

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