Hiking the GR34 starting from Mont Saint-Michel
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Original post
AN
I’d like to hike the GR 34 this summer with my 17-year-old son. We’re planning to start at Mont Saint-Michel, aiming for around 20 km/day. We’ll be using a tent.

If anyone’s done this trail before, could you share some insights on how challenging it is, how easy it is to find campsites along the GR, and what the average daily distance is like?
JL Jlc35 ·
AN Annd ·
hi there I hiked the GR34 (customs officers' trail) from Le Croisic to Brest in June 2003 during the heatwave with a poorly packed backpack—it was brutal. Camping spots vary; they're handy when near the coast, but after 20 km, including 4 or 5 km of dry sand, you won’t want to walk another 5 km to sleep and then 5 more the next day. If you'd like more details, feel free to contact me—I’d be happy to help. cheers
AN Antoinepilou ·
Hi, and thanks for replying,

We’ll follow the GR trail, and if we find a campsite along it or within one or two km, we’ll stay there. But if the campsites are farther away, we’ll just pitch the tent in a field. We’ll still try to sleep at campsites whenever possible so we can use the showers. As for food, did you buy your groceries day by day, or did you bring enough to eat in your pack? I think to travel lighter, we’ll set off without food and just buy things as we pass through villages—though we’ll still take a minimum just in case...

See you later
AN Annd ·
hi there, besides the fact that campsites aren’t always very close to the coast, they can also be pretty expensive—up to 10 € for one night, even if you arrive around 5 PM and leave by 7 AM. That’s a bit much. For showers, the harbor master’s office is often a good option—they’re usually cool about it, and the showers aren’t too pricey.

To cross estuaries (like the Vilaine or Lorient roadstead, etc.), just ask who can take you across. I crossed with fishermen, sailing schools, and others. The same goes for getting to the islands—hitching a boat ride works well, especially on weekends.

For food, I’d buy enough for about three days. The issue is the same as with camping: it’s not always close to the coast. Couscous is really handy because it expands even with cold water and is easy to store. Then I’d pack cans like sardines or corned beef—they’re high in calories and hold up well in the heat—plus figs, raisins, and dates. Still, I lost 6 kilos in two weeks.

Which section are you interested in? If you need them, I had a few maps of the area. Here’s my email: annd@hotmail.fr
RO Rozvein ·
Hello,

Personally, I know the section of the GR34 that runs from Beuzec-Cap-Sizun to Pointe du Raz. It passes through the Goulien bird sanctuary. Most hikers break it into these stages: Douarnenez -> Beuzec-Cap-Sizun -> overnight at the Beuzec-Cap-Sizun communal gîte -> Goulien bird sanctuary or Pointe de Penharn (Cléden-Cap-Sizun) -> overnight at the Goulien municipal campsite or in B&Bs at Roz-Vein Pointe de Penharn -> Pointe du Raz.

Best regards and happy hiking.
AL Albelle Regular ·
hi there I’m interested in info about the Customs Officers’ Path (Chemin des Douaniers) too, as I’m planning to do it on horseback. I’m coming from Caen, heading to Mont Saint-Michel and then Brittany along the coast. I’m looking for any info possible, and maps too, of course. If anyone wants to get rid of some or has them at a good price, I’m interested. Is wild camping easy to do? Is this GR mostly on dirt paths or are there rocks?

I’m also looking for maps of Normandy, Pays de la Loire, Burgundy, and Morvan for a friend who’s crossing France!! thanks
DA Daniel56 Regular ·
Hi (hello) Antoinepilou.

This is an excellent choice for an adventure on the GR34. Starting from Mont Saint-Michel to Saint-Nazaire, you're looking at around 1,800 km—at least two months to cover the distance. The GR34 is known as the customs officers' path and is off-limits to bikes (and horses, I think—various obstacles), reserved for hikers only. Some connecting sections aren’t very interesting and can be long. For example, from Mont Saint-Michel to Cancale, unless you take the marsh route (in which case it’s best to have a guide).

I completed the Tro Breizh (October 1987), which is a completely different Breton adventure, and this year in May and June, I’m tackling the GR34. I’ve opted for a mix of styles—by bike and on foot!—depending on the interest of the route. I do loops to rejoin my bike left waiting, hiking the best sections of the GR34 on foot and covering the rest by bike (keeping in mind the trail’s ban on cycles).

The bike gives you more autonomy, and the "strong" sensations come from walking. Bretons (I’m one from Morbihan) are very welcoming, so you’ll easily find a spot to pitch your "guitoune" (tent). However, near the coast, proximity to "second homes owned by non-locals" can be tricky (the selfishness of the "new rich" vs. the "wandering beggar," right?).

The bike’s autonomy is great in the evenings after 25 km of "backpacking." Unless you have a lot of free time, you’ll need to break the route into sections. The climate is better in the south than the north (I’m a chauvinistic Breton from the south, so that goes without saying), but the northern coast is much more beautiful and appealing.

A must-try: eight days around the Gulf of Morbihan—182 km from Le Crouesty to Locmariaquer via Vannes, plus the Île aux Moines or Arz. There’s a great free documentary published by the Morbihan General Council: *"Sur les Sentiers de la Petite Mer"* (On the Trails of the Little Sea). It’s part of the GR34, with no elevation changes, unlike the northern coast, which is more of a rollercoaster. The Crozon Peninsula is also pure bliss...

Catch you later if you need more details or tips.
Daniel d'Ar Minic'hi
LA Laguin Regular ·
We "did" this GR trail that follows the Breton coast almost continuously (big interruption between Brest and Landévénec for 3 days). No problem finding campsites—there are plenty all along the coast. On rainy days (rare in Brittany), we used small coastal hotels. The path is stunning, with lots of wild beaches, coves, and incredible cliffs (Fort de la Latte). It’s particularly challenging, with lots of ups and downs. The detours around the *abers* are also very long: Aber Wrac’h, Aber Benoît, and especially the Aber Belon on the south coast. You can hike it in sections if you don’t have at least 45 consecutive days. Note that from Mont St-Michel to Brest, it takes 24 days, and from Brest to Vannes, it takes 22 days. Essential guidebooks: - Côte d’Émeraude (ref 345) - Côte de Granit Rose (ref 346) - Les Abers (ref 347) - Le Finistère Cornouailles (ref 292) - Le Littoral du Morbihan (ref 561) Some sections don’t have guidebooks, so you’ll need to buy 1:25,000 scale maps (from Brest to Pointe du Raz, i.e., all of Crozon), but the trail is always obvious and easy to follow. Enjoy!
CH Christofen Regular ·
Hi Albelle, I hiked from Cancale to Roscoff on foot back in 2005. I don’t think you can do it on horseback—there are lots of rocky sections, cliffs at Plouha, stairs, very narrow passages between the lovely villas in Dinard, and tight chicanes for path access. When I was younger, I worked hauling wood with horses, and I can’t picture managing that trail with them. Maybe the southern coast is less rugged; it’s a shame because the north is stunning. As for wild camping, no problem—we saw it everywhere. Hope this helps! A+
ou il y a une volonté, il y a un chemin.
AL Albelle Regular ·
Thanks everyone for your tips—it’s way more kilometers than I thought! I’ll also keep in mind that the D34 isn’t open to riders everywhere. As for Crozon, it’s a place I really want to see!! From Mont Saint-Michel to Saint-Malo, I thought the landscapes were beautiful, so I’ll skip that part and head further south if you confirm it’s not great.

Have any of you tried ING’s Evadéo GPS? I’m skeptical about how useful it is;;; I’m renewing my call for maps of Brittany—nothing too expensive or, ideally, free!! See you!
RO Rozvein ·
Hi there,

The Crozon peninsula is indeed really beautiful. You’ll find info about this section of the GR34 on the site "Natadéric’s Hikes" (http://nataderic.free.fr)

Happy hiking! !
TI Titifrutu ·
Hello everyone, I’d love to get the experienced hikers’ take and insights from those who’ve walked different sections of the GR34. I’m definitely hiking 12 days on the GR34 in Finistère, but I’m still torn between the Route des Abers or Crozon and part of the Audierne Bay.

Do you have any thoughts on this? Is the landscape between Morlaix and Brest more monotonous than the southern sections? Are the lighthouses really visible along the Route des Abers? Also, is there a big difference between Crozon and Audierne Bay, or does the scenery flow seamlessly? If you haven’t hit the trails this summer, your input would still be super valuable! Best, titi
YA Yaro Regular ·
Hi,

The section north of Pointe du Raz is quite similar to Crozon—really beautiful. (http://www.cap-sizun.com/photos/438-la-plage-de-theolen-vue-d-avion.jpg) If it still exists, grab a drink at the little bistro overlooking Théolen Beach.

Once you round Pointe du Raz, the coastline changes noticeably—less wild, more rounded, drier.

Cabestan Cove in Esquibien is magical: after days of walking on rocks, being able to take off your shoes and walk barefoot in that white sand is pure bliss.

And while you're in the area: don’t forget to spend at least one night on Île de Sein.

Yan
Méfiez vous des contrefaçons: apprenez à faire la différence entre un faux plat et un vrai.
LI Lilianerenne ·
Hello, I don’t know when you sent this message, but I’m also considering doing this route with my sons (10 and 13 years old) from Saint-Malo to Saint-Brieuc for a few days of vacation. I’ve already done part of the Camino de Santiago, and from experience, once you get into the rhythm, you can easily cover 30 km a day without overthinking it. I’m not sure if we need a map—I’m planning to go without one, that’s one less thing to carry. Plus, we’ll be camping, so we already have to carry the tent and sleeping gear, right? Anyway, if you’re not already on the trail, keep me posted on your plans. We could swap tips, but there’s already a lot of info online. Just Google "GR 34" or "Mont Saint-Michel to Saint-Brieuc"—there’s a really detailed and interesting blog, and I don’t think they used a map either. Just follow the sea... the whole thing! 😛 Safe travels... Liliane
liliane

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