Impressions de voyage, trois mois en Amérique du Sud
by Ladrech
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Ce n'est pas un carnet de voyage, bien d'autres en font sur ce forum..., ce n'est que quelques reflexions sur ce voyage qui nous semble le plus abouti.
Après un certain nombre de voyages en amérique du sud, nous voilà liberés des contraintes des sites incontournables a visiter.N'ayant rien réservé d'avance comme d'habitude, sinon le billet d'avion aller retour pour 3 petits mois, nous avions tout le loisir et le temps de dècouvrir d'autres régions moins visitées, au gré de nos désirs.
Nous avions seulement le souhait de revoir certaines régions et quelques amis disséminés de la patagonie au versant nord amazonien du Pérou.
Nous avions déjà compris l'année dernière que grâce au change parallèle, nous pourions rester un peu plus longtemps en Argentine sans grever notre budget.En effet, nous avons donc prévu notre séjour en Argentine avec suffisamment d'espèces, surtout des dollars, qui sont toujours beaucoup mieux changés , afin de ne pas avoir à utiliser la carte bancaire.
Cela nous a permis d'économiser 40% sur notre voyage.
Ce que nous avons le moins aimé pendant notre voyage
L'énorme distance que nous avions à parcourir entre la patagonie et le nord du Pérou, ( avec beaucoup d'étapes afin d'y retrouver nos amis.)
Les bus suites de la ligne Buenos Aires Salta qui ne mèritent plus leur nom, de plus en plus chers et de plus en plus vieux
Devoir aller parfois dans des endroits un peu bizarres pour faire du change surtout à Buenos Aires.
Ce que nous avons le plus aimé pendant ce voyage
Revoir Rodolphe (Hergé) toujours présent pour venir nous chercher à l'aèroport et nous donner les dernières infos sur l'Argentine
Les quelques jours passés à Buenos Aires avec Adrian et sa famille
Retrouver les habitués du petit matin pour prendre le petit déjeuner tranquilement chez Tortoni avant l'arrivée massive des touristes
Un bon bife de chorizo chez Lallo
Prendre le dernier métro de la ligne A qui datait des années 1920
Quelques parillas ou asados avec les amis de Pigüé dans la pampa, Griselda, Ruben, Marilia et bien d'autres encores
Les andes boisées avec ses superbes paysages et les amis au bord du lago Melliquina.
Salta et sa région, toujours et encore
Faire la boucle sud de Salta avec Regine et Dante qui avaient délaissé leur pizzeria creperie pour quelques jours.
Prendre le temps de se balader ou de séjourner quelque part au gré de nos envies et du temps qu 'il fait.
Juan et Albertine dans leur joli petit village près de Güemes
Les retrouvailles avec Nicole (Nicobry) et Rafael et les enfants de la puna
Les quelques jours passés sur l'altiplano dans les ecoles dont s'occupe l'association les enfants d'atacama.
Beaucoup de petits restos aussi bien en Argentine qu'au Perou
Goûter les vins argentins, chiliens, péruviens et boliviens (surtout dns la région de Tarija)
Un petit pisco à l'hotel Bolivar à Lima
Les fruits de mers et les poissons succulents du Pérou
Les voyageurs que nous avons rencontré et avec qui nous avons voyagé quelques heures ou quelques jours, dont un couple franco japonais qui tourne autour du monde depuis 5 ans.
Nous retrouver dans la région de Tarapoto avec les cuisiniers Cristian et Monica dans leur restaurant chalet venezia.
La ballade en voiture dans cette superbe région avec l'ami Jacques qui venait rendre visite à son fils dans ses plantations de cacao et de café
Puis les retrouvailles avec Philippe, Irène et leurs enfants dans leur nouvelle maison tout en bois dans la forêt, près de leur gites à côté de Yurimaguas.
Les derniers jours à la fin du voyage dans la région de Santa Fe, région plus agréable que l'on pourrait le croire.
Et bien d'autres choses encore...
Tout celà n'est que nos impressions de voyage et ne pose pas de question et ne demande pas de réponse ni de commentaire.
Merci
Faire la boucle sud de Salta avec Regine et Dante qui avaient délaissé leur pizzeria creperie pour quelques jours.
J'en profite pour leur faire un peu de pub, car ils le méritent. Leur restau (avec grande terrasse) s'appelle "La Bohème". Pizzas incroyablement excellentes et accueil plus que chaleureux de ce couple franco-argentin.
J'en profite pour leur faire un peu de pub, car ils le méritent. Leur restau (avec grande terrasse) s'appelle "La Bohème". Pizzas incroyablement excellentes et accueil plus que chaleureux de ce couple franco-argentin.
Bonjour à vous deux,
Très intéressant votre récit de voyage. J'aurai juste une question à vous poser, quel est le bilan financier de vos 3 mois en ayant pratiqué le change parallèle en Argentine?
A bientôt.
Bonjour,
Tu nous demandes notre bilan financier , Sur 3 mois, nous avons dépensè 115 € par jour pour 2 personnes pour environ 2 mois en Argentine et 1 mois au Perou et en Bolivie.
Cela comprenait : les locations de voitures sur environ 30 jours ( 3 fois en Argentine et 1 fois au Pérou)
Les trajets en bus generalement 180° au Perou et en Argentine
Les trajets en taxis collectifs longue distance en Bolivie ( Villazon Tupiza, Tupiza Potosi, Potosi Sucre, Tarija Salta)
ces taxis collectifs sont un peu plus chers que les bus mais plus confortables et tellement plus rapides.
Les trajets en avion ( Lima tarapoto AR , Sucre La Paz et La paz Tarija )
Les hotels, generalement 3 etoiles et même parfois 4 etoiles, ( cette année en Argentine il etait beaucoup plus facile de discuter le prix des hotels, bien sur avec des especes et pas question de reserver d'avance)
Les restaurants midi et soir
Et tous les autres frais, essence, agences locales pour de petits circuits, visites diverses, musées, cadeaux etc et divers
La moyenne fut pratiquement la même en Argentine et au Perou
Si nous n'avions pas pratiqué le change parallele, cela nous aurait coûté 40% plus cher en Argentine, comme l'a bien expliqué aujourd'hui Hergé dans plusieurs messages, même si cela ne plait pas à certaines personnes qui veulent donner des leçons de morale.
A plus
Bonjour et merci pour tous ces renseignements.
Vous nous aviez déjà bien renseigné sur la région d'Yurimaguas il y a quelques temps.
Nous envisagions de visiter l'Argentine, mais le coup de la vie nous arretait jusqu'à présent. Les messages des forums et différents carnets de voyages ne nous donnaient pas assez d'informations.
Le système de change parallèle nous permettra d'économiser 40 % et donc de concrétiser ce voyage.
Nous aurions quelques précisions à vous demander, notamment concernant les bus, qui semblent vieillissants.
Quelle est la meilleure période pour visiter les Andes boisées? Que nous conseillez- nous à Buenos Aires et en combien de jours? Que nous conseillez- vous dans la région de Salta? Etc...
Merci.
Bonjour,
Oui il est possible que dans les différents carnets de voyage que tu as lu, tu n'ais pas trouvé ces informations car c'est difficile de connaitre les fonctionnements d'un pays en ne venant qu'une courte periode.
Mais beaucoup de messages parlent de ce sujet. Encore aujourd'hui Kalchaqui a evoqué le change parallèle dans ce forum.
Pour les quelques précisions que tu souhaitais avoir, il est vrai que le bus que nous avions pris entre Buenos Aires et Salta etait en très mauvais etat, alors qu'il s'agissait de la meilleure catègorie, mais il est difficile de généraliser, même si nous pensons que la flotte n'a pas eté renouvelée comme il faudrait ces dernieres années.
Nous avons visite les andes boisées à plusieurs époques et le mois de decembre est la période que nous avons préféré car c'est la fin du printemps, il y a beaucoup de fleurs, il fait déja doux, et les argentins n'étant pas encore en vacances, les prix des locations n'ont pas encore flambé.
Pour la région de Salta, nous te conseillons fortement de louer une voiture, et de faire la boucle sud et la nord sans trop se presser, tu verras il y a pleins d'endroit où tu auras envie de t'arrêter, ( mais tous les guides en parlent.)
Si tu as le temps, une quinzaine de jours est idéal.
Pour ce qui est de Buenos Aires, quelques jours pour la visite classique.
Si tu te passionnes pour quelque chose en particulier , dans ce cas prevois plus de temps.
Nous c'est les musées, les différents marchés d'antiquités, les monuments tel le théatre Colon, recemment rénové etc...
et bien sur quelques bons restaurants .
Tout celà est notre vision, et surtout nous ne prétendons pas connaitre l'argentine, c'est pour celà que nous y retournons assez souvent.
Quelques précisions sur le change parallèle.
Pourquoi les argentins n'ont plus confiance dans leur monnaie? Depuis 2001, tous les comptes ayant etés bloqués , ils ont etés spoliés de leurs économies et n'ont retrouvé que des miettes.
Il y a quelques années on pouvait encore voir les imposantes portes en bronze des banques qui avaient eté martelées par les épargnants qui voulaient récuperer leur argent. C'est pourquoi les argentins prefèrent payer même cher des dollars ou des euros afin de ne jamais laisser leur argent en banque.
Que ce soit les amis de Pigüé, de Buenos Aires, de Salta ou ceux de Neuquen ( qui possédaient une petite entreprise de matériel agricole et qui ont presque tout perdu et mis des années pour se redresser ), tous, dès qu'ils ont un peu d'epargne préfèrent la transformer en euros ou en dollars pour ne pas revivre l'après 2001.
Nous espérons que celà t'aidera à comprendre le change parallèle.
Tu nous demandais quoi faire dans la région de Buenos Aires, tu peux aller à San Antonio de Areco, petite ville agréable à 100km de Buenos Aires avec le très interessant musée du peintre Molina Campo, le peintre de la vie rurale et des gauchos.
Bonjour Ladrech
Je suis à la recherche d'infos pour mon futur voyage en Argentine.
Je penses partir 3 ou 4 mois en fin d'année 2014.
J'ai déjà trouvé beaucoup d'informations pour les grands sites à visiter sur différents forums, mais je souhaiterais aussi connaître l'Argentine moins touristique, mais certainement plus authentique.
J'ai lu plusieurs de vos messages et j'ai vu que vous parliez de régions qui ne figurent pas sur les guides ou dont on ne parle que rarement sur les forums.
Tout d'abord, d'après vous combien de temps faut il séjourner dans la région de Buenos Aires, Cordoba, Mendoza, Salta, Igazu , Bariloche, Le Perito Moreno, Valdes... et bien sur que ne faut -il pas manquer en dehors des grands sites.
Un grand merci d'avance.
Nous pouvons te donner quelques idées mais nous ne savons pas comment tu as décidé de voyager, en avion, bus voiture de location ?
As- tu déjà fait une ébauche d'itinéraire pour ton voyage ? Es tu seule ou avec d'autres personnes et de quel budget disposes-tu,
A notre avis pour les grands sites comme Perito Moréno, Iguaçu, il n'est pas necessaire d'avoir un véhicule, tu peux y aller en bus ou en avion tout depend de ton budget.
Par contre pour visiter la région de Salta, de Cordoba, de Bariloche , nous te conseillons si tu le peux, de louer une voiture pour profiter pleinement de ces régions. Si tu ne veux pas faire des km de route, tu peux rejoindre ces régions en bus puis sur place louer un véhicule.
Pour la péninsule Valdès tout depend à quelle époque tu dois passer, car en fin d'année il sera surement trop tard pour voir des baleines, et maintenant tout est extrêmement balisé et tu ne peux plus voir les lions et elephants de mer et autre
animaux que de loin, et nous trouvons que c'est beaucoup moins interessant qu'auparavant.
Donnes nous quelques précisions sur ton itinéraire et tes envies, nous essayerons de repondre à tes questions.
J'ai cru comprendre que les vols intérieurs en avion étaient assez chers, plus chers pour les touristes que pour les argentins, c, est pourquoi je pense privilégier les bus ou location de voiture.
Nous partirons à deux, avec sans doute un budget d'environ 100€ par jour.J'ai bien bien compris le système du change parallèle et espère pouvoir en bénéficier en fin d'année afin d'améliorer notre pouvoir d'achat.
Mon itinéraire est pour l'instant des plus classique : arrivée à Buenos Aires, puis Iguaçu, Salta, Cordoba, Mendoza, Bariloche, Perito Moreno, Ushuaia et peut-être la péninsule Valdès.
Contrairement à la majorité des touristes qui sont limités par le temps, souvent moins d'un mois, je disposerai de 3 ou 4 mois.
D'après vous, l'idéal serait d'alterner les voyages en bus pour les gros trajets et de louer des voitures sur place.
J'ai déjà une petite idée sur ce qu'il y a à visiter à Salta et alentours, et je pense y rester une dizaine de jours.
Combien de temps pour visiter les régions de Cordoba, Mendoza, Bariloche, Ushuaia et qu'y a -t-il d'intéressant à voir autour et entre ces différentes villes.
Combien de temps rester à Buenos Aires et dans sa province ?
Merci.
Il est un peu difficile de te donner le temps que tu dois consacrer aux regions que tu souhaites visiter, tout depend de tes gôuts et centres d'interét.
On peut te dire ce que nous avons particulierement aimé.
Dans la région de Cordoba, les estancias jesuites par ex Alta Gracia, La Candelarie, Jesus Maria....
Beaucoup d'autres endroits à visiter dans cette province, plus au nord, à 160 km de Cordoba, le Cerro Colorado avec ses escarpements et ses petroglyphes.
Au sud, en partant d'Alta Gracia, la traversée de la magnifique cordillère en direction de Mina Clavero, avec la visite de l'indescriptible musée Rocsen à Nono, ( fondé dans les années 60 par un descendant de français, Juan Bouchon) et toute la traversée de la sierra jusqu'à la petite ville touristique de Merlo dans la province de San Luis.
Nous avons aussi beaucoup apprécié les régions de San Juan, de La Rioja avec les nombreuses sierras, les parc naturels tels que Talampaya, Vallée de la Lune.....
De là on peut rejoindre Mendoza, petite oasis au milieu du désert, ville charmante et ombragée grâce à ses nombreux canaux d'irrigation.
Pour les amateurs de vin, nombreuses bodegas à visiter tout autour.
Ensuite la region de Bariloche.
A Bariloche nous lui préférons les petites villes au bord des lacs telles que San Martin de los Andes, Villa la Angostura, et plus au sud El Bolson, Esquel, Trevelin, toute la région des lacs et andes boisées et le grand parc de Los Alerces.
Pour visiter ces régions, véhicule obligatoire; nous y passons souvent une dizaine de jours sans nous lasser.
On peut y louer des cabanas au milieu de la nature, y deguster en saisons les fruits des chacras ( cerises, fraises, framboises ) et gôuter les bieres artisanales.
Plus bas, la petite ville le Los Antiguos sur le lac Buenos Aires, capitale de la cerise, ;
un peu plus loin, un site important la cueva de las Manos, un peu difficile d'accès, une cinquantaine de km à partir de Bajo Caracoles , malheureusement nous n'avons pas pu le voir, cela reste à faire.
Plus au sud, bien sur El Chalten et El Calafate et peut-être Ushuaia.
Pour te donner une idée, en 2008, nous avions loué une voiture à Buenos Aires pour 28 jours, et nous avions visité la
péninsule Valdes, nous etions descendus par Comodoro Rivadavia jusqu'à Cmte Luis Piedra Buena puis rejoint El Calafate et remonté la route 40 jusqu'à Zapala, Neuquen, Santa Rosa dans la province de la pampa et Buenos Aires. Nous avions parcouru cette année là environ 8000 km en prenant le temps de visiter de nombreux endroits.
Pour Buenos Aires et sa province, nous pensons que tu as déjà pu te faire une idée en lisant les forums sur ce qu'il y a
d'interesssant à visiter, nous avons egalement déjà ecrit pas mal de messages sur ce que nous y avons aimé .
Merci pour tous ces renseignements, j'étudie tout cela et je me permettrai éventuellement de vous recontacter pour d'autres conseils.
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Auriez-vous des adresses de lieux d'hébergement sympathiques, non luxueux pour chacune de ces étapes.
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Bonjour.
J'ai déjà posté un message sur des renseignements au sujet de notre futur voyage au Chili.
Les précisions: Se déplacer en bus ou en train.
Partir de Valparaiso aller jusqu'au nord en passant par des villes et des lieux à visiter puis revenir à santiago en empruntant un autre chemin.
Éviter les plages ..
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Hi everyone,
We’re planning 40 days in Uruguay and Argentina in February and March, trying to avoid as much rain as possible.
We’re thinking of starting in Buenos Aires, then heading to Bariloche, and from there flying to Córdoba, Mendoza, or Salta. Maybe by bus or renting a car to explore each region.
Do you have any suggestions or tips for us? We love picturesque, historic cities and landscapes. As seasoned travelers, we’re used to planning our trips ourselves.
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Hello,
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Hi there,
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What do you think? Thanks,
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What do you think? Thanks,
IMPORTANT NOTICE for those planning to take a bus to another city, state, or destination from Salvador!
Starting January 20, 2026, the intercity bus station Rodoviária is changing its address! The Rodoviária is leaving the Iguatemi area and will now be located in ÁGUAS CLARAS (about twenty kilometers from downtown Salvador).
A brand-new station (the most modern in Brazil) has just been set up there, accessible by car/taxi/Uber/metro. Allow for much more transfer time (especially during rush hours), so leave early if you're heading to Chapada Diamantina or other Brazilian cities by bus.
Remember, there are also private transfers (even French-speaking ones) that can take you directly from your hotel in Salvador to your hotel in Chapada. Sure, it’ll be more expensive, but you’ll save on transfer time and comfort.
Tropical greetings from Salvador,
@ivanbahiaguide
Loyal member of the French-Speaking Brazil Forums for over 15 years already 😊 🇧🇷
Starting January 20, 2026, the intercity bus station Rodoviária is changing its address! The Rodoviária is leaving the Iguatemi area and will now be located in ÁGUAS CLARAS (about twenty kilometers from downtown Salvador).
A brand-new station (the most modern in Brazil) has just been set up there, accessible by car/taxi/Uber/metro. Allow for much more transfer time (especially during rush hours), so leave early if you're heading to Chapada Diamantina or other Brazilian cities by bus.
Remember, there are also private transfers (even French-speaking ones) that can take you directly from your hotel in Salvador to your hotel in Chapada. Sure, it’ll be more expensive, but you’ll save on transfer time and comfort.
Tropical greetings from Salvador,
@ivanbahiaguide
Loyal member of the French-Speaking Brazil Forums for over 15 years already 😊 🇧🇷
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Day 6: Day trip to Monte San Valentin Glacier.
Day 7: Excursion to the Marble Chapels, then drive to Puerto Guadal. We'll stay there for 3 nights.
Day 8: Walk along Lago Carrera and return to Puerto Guadal.
Day 9: Rio Baker Valley and, if possible, a glacier excursion.
Day 10: Drive to Cochrane and hike in Tamango National Reserve. We'll stay 2 nights in Cochrane.
Day 11: Walk in the Chacabuco Valley.
Day 12: Drive to Caleta Tortel. We'll stay there for 2 nights.
Day 13: Cruise in the Rio Baker delta.
Day 14: Return to Cochrane.
Day 15: Return to Balmaceda in two stages.
Day 16: Continue the return journey.
Day 17: Return the rental car and head back to Santiago.
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After this, we're also planning to explore northern Santiago. I'll post about that part once I have a clearer idea of the route.
What do you think of this itinerary? Is it doable in 17 days? Thanks in advance for your tips and recommendations. martine
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So, what do you think? Is this doable, or should we tweak it? Thanks in advance for your invaluable feedback and tips! 🙂
Below is our draft itinerary (with questions at each stop):
29/11: France → Colombia. Overnight in Bogotá. 30/11: Exploring Bogotá: La Candelaria and Montserrate. 01/12: Gold Museum (closed on Mondays). Drive to Zipaquirá (1.5 hrs) to visit the Salt Cathedral. Then drive to Villa de Leyva (3 hrs). Explore the town. Overnight in Villa de Leyva. 02/12: Return to Bogotá via Laguna de Guatavita (5 hrs). Is it worth the detour? Overnight in Bogotá. 03/12: Flight to Pereira. Drive to Salento. Overnight in Salento. 04/12: Cocora Valley (hike among the wax palms) followed by a drive around the area. Are there any waterfalls or other sights nearby? 05/12: Visit a coffee finca—any recommendations? Then explore the surroundings: Filandia, Manizales, waterfalls? Hot springs? Which ones? 06/12: Flight to Medellín. 07/12: Exploring Medellín: Centro, Plaza Botero, Comuna 13. How do you visit Comuna 13? Is it easy to get around Medellín? Metro? Buses? 08/12: Drive to Guatapé (2 hrs). Visit the town, stroll around the lake, then El Peñol. Overnight in Guatapé. 09/12: Return to Medellín. 10/12: Flight to Santa Marta. Drive to a hotel near Tayrona Park. 11/12: Tayrona—El Zaino entrance. 12/12: Tayrona—Palangana entrance, then Bahia Concha and Santa Marta. What do you think? 13/12: Drive to Minca (45 mins). Can we reach the village by car? Pozo Azul and Marinka waterfalls. Overnight in Minca (or back in Tayrona?). 14/12: Drive to Puerto Nao (5 hrs). Stop in Ciénaga on the way + boat tour in Nueva Venecia and/or Buena Vista? Not enough time? Overnight in Puerto Nao. 15/12: Exploring Cartagena: Centro, Getsemaní, the walls + La Boquilla if we have time. 16/12: La Boquilla (is it really worth it?) if we didn’t have time yesterday, then back to the beach. 17/12: Return to France.
So, what do you think? Is this doable, or should we tweak it? Thanks in advance for your invaluable feedback and tips! 🙂
Hi there, I’ll be in Brazil from December 10th to the end of February.
I’ve sketched out a rough itinerary but I’m not sure how to arrange it—considering the climate, year-end holidays, and Carnival.
Basically, I’m thinking of the Amazon, the Northeast coast with Lençóis Maranhenses National Park (but skipping Chapada Diamantina),
Ouro Preto, Paraty, and Ilha Grande—but no Rio visit.
Is this doable in 3 months?
Which direction should I take for this itinerary?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone, does anyone know the agency Ventura Travel Agency (not ventura travel)? After lots of research and quotes, it’s the only one offering Uyuni at a reasonable price while meeting all the criteria: transfer to the border, private-room accommodation, and a very fair rate. Other agencies or guides either offer shared rooms, no border transfer, or prices that are way too high. But I’d love to hear some reviews about this agency. Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
We're planning a trip to Chile to visit the Atacama Desert and then head toward Putre, Lauca, Salar de Surire, etc.
Which would be the better time to go, April or November?
Is an SUV enough?
Looking forward to your tips!
Hi, I'm looking for a local agency in Uyuni to do the trip and tours from Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Hi there,
Could you recommend any car rental agencies in Calama and Punta Arenas? Best regards,
Could you recommend any car rental agencies in Calama and Punta Arenas? Best regards,
Hi everyone, French travelers in Chile—what credit cards do you use for your various car rentals in the country? I’m traveling in September and was planning to switch my regular debit card (a VISA PREMIER in deferred debit mode) for the deposit guarantee.
My rentals are with Figal in Punta Arenas, Econautos in Arica, and Chilean Rent a Car in Temuco, and all of them want the deposit on a credit card. For me, deferred debit *should* work, but I’ve read comments saying the opposite.
How’s it actually working on the ground with these rental companies right now? Will a deferred debit card work, or not at all?
In France, banks don’t issue credit cards, right—or am I mistaken?
Thanks for your help!
My rentals are with Figal in Punta Arenas, Econautos in Arica, and Chilean Rent a Car in Temuco, and all of them want the deposit on a credit card. For me, deferred debit *should* work, but I’ve read comments saying the opposite.
How’s it actually working on the ground with these rental companies right now? Will a deferred debit card work, or not at all?
In France, banks don’t issue credit cards, right—or am I mistaken?
Thanks for your help!
Hi everyone, is it still possible to travel in Ecuador outside the Amazon region? If so, do you have a reliable agency to recommend? All your recent experiences from the past few months would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much
Hi,
We’re heading to Buenos Aires for 3 days in November and would like to do a guided tour of a few neighborhoods. There are "free" tours, but none in French. Does anyone have a guide to recommend so we can really get to know the city beyond just the architecture?
Thanks
Hi there,
I’m desperately looking for info on the schedules and routes of (shared) boats to visit the islands of Lake Titicaca.
From what I’ve found, there’s a *combi* (bus) that leaves from Puno to go to Llachon. Where do you catch it? What are the schedules and frequency? Does it take about 1 hour?
Then in Llachon, you can take a boat to Amantani (45 min). Same question—where do you check for frequency and schedule? After that, from Amantani, boats go to Taquile and then Uros. Do you have enough time to visit the islands between two boats? Frequency and schedule?
The goal is to do this tour independently (no agency) over 2 days. Thanks for any tips you might have!
Then in Llachon, you can take a boat to Amantani (45 min). Same question—where do you check for frequency and schedule? After that, from Amantani, boats go to Taquile and then Uros. Do you have enough time to visit the islands between two boats? Frequency and schedule?
The goal is to do this tour independently (no agency) over 2 days. Thanks for any tips you might have!
Hey everyone,
I just got back from a trip to Bolivia and wow—what a wake-up call. It’s not the easiest country, but it’s absolutely stunning.
I started with Isla del Sol, perfect for easing into the altitude at a relaxed pace. Try to stay in the northern part of the island—it’s quieter and the views are insane. And the trout there? Unreal. Quick tip: bring cash in small bills; they almost never have change, and cards are rarely accepted.
Next up, La Paz. The city’s pretty wild, built in every direction. I did a few hikes in the area, including the famous Charquini Lagoon (the blue lake) at over 5,000 m—let’s just say I struggled 😅 but it was so beautiful it was totally worth it.
After that, I headed to Sajama. It’s cool, especially for the hot springs, and I stayed in Tomarapi. But honestly, if you’re short on time, you can skip it without too many regrets.
The highlight of the trip: the Salar. I did it starting from Tupiza, and I *highly* recommend going Tupiza → Uyuni. Way less crowded at the start and the landscapes are super varied. For the tour, I used SplitYourGuide to find a group, and it worked out great. Super handy for splitting costs and meeting people.
I wrapped up in Sucre—this city is gorgeous, all white, with such a chill vibe. And the salteñas + ice cream? Next level 😋
Bottom line: Bolivia’s a bit rough around the edges, sometimes exhausting (shoutout to the altitude), but it’s 1000% worth it.
If you’ve got questions or need tips, I’m happy to help! Martin
I just got back from a trip to Bolivia and wow—what a wake-up call. It’s not the easiest country, but it’s absolutely stunning.
I started with Isla del Sol, perfect for easing into the altitude at a relaxed pace. Try to stay in the northern part of the island—it’s quieter and the views are insane. And the trout there? Unreal. Quick tip: bring cash in small bills; they almost never have change, and cards are rarely accepted.
Next up, La Paz. The city’s pretty wild, built in every direction. I did a few hikes in the area, including the famous Charquini Lagoon (the blue lake) at over 5,000 m—let’s just say I struggled 😅 but it was so beautiful it was totally worth it.
After that, I headed to Sajama. It’s cool, especially for the hot springs, and I stayed in Tomarapi. But honestly, if you’re short on time, you can skip it without too many regrets.
The highlight of the trip: the Salar. I did it starting from Tupiza, and I *highly* recommend going Tupiza → Uyuni. Way less crowded at the start and the landscapes are super varied. For the tour, I used SplitYourGuide to find a group, and it worked out great. Super handy for splitting costs and meeting people.
I wrapped up in Sucre—this city is gorgeous, all white, with such a chill vibe. And the salteñas + ice cream? Next level 😋
Bottom line: Bolivia’s a bit rough around the edges, sometimes exhausting (shoutout to the altitude), but it’s 1000% worth it.
If you’ve got questions or need tips, I’m happy to help! Martin
hi,
I was planning to go to Réunion and stay in half-board accommodation with non-professionals, but it seems that’s not really the custom there—or maybe my budget isn’t big enough.
So, since I’ve already traveled around Ecuador and Peru, I’m now looking at Argentina, especially for its mountains (like the ones in Réunion that tempted me, even though—frustratingly—I could only admire them from below).
I plan to get around by bus and don’t know in advance where I’ll sleep, so I won’t book ahead. If I like a place, I might stay for several days.
I know that in Chile, it’s easy to find half-board accommodation, but what about in Argentina?
I’d like to stay with locals in half-board without it being a professional setup. I’m not sure if this is common practice there. It’s up to me to find someone willing to host me. What do you think? What would be a fair price (keeping in mind that 40 to 50 € is the max I can spend on accommodation, breakfast, and dinner)?
Looking forward to your feedback.
Best regards,
I was planning to go to Réunion and stay in half-board accommodation with non-professionals, but it seems that’s not really the custom there—or maybe my budget isn’t big enough.
So, since I’ve already traveled around Ecuador and Peru, I’m now looking at Argentina, especially for its mountains (like the ones in Réunion that tempted me, even though—frustratingly—I could only admire them from below).
I plan to get around by bus and don’t know in advance where I’ll sleep, so I won’t book ahead. If I like a place, I might stay for several days.
I know that in Chile, it’s easy to find half-board accommodation, but what about in Argentina?
I’d like to stay with locals in half-board without it being a professional setup. I’m not sure if this is common practice there. It’s up to me to find someone willing to host me. What do you think? What would be a fair price (keeping in mind that 40 to 50 € is the max I can spend on accommodation, breakfast, and dinner)?
Looking forward to your feedback.
Best regards,
Hi everyone,
We’re heading to Patagonia for three weeks in November, starting from Coyhaique in Chile.
We won’t have a car, and I’m struggling to find information about transportation options for a few parts of the itinerary we’d like to do:
1) From Perito Moreno (the town, near Los Antiguos), we’d like to travel down Ruta 40 to visit Perito Moreno National Park and then cross into Chile via the Paso Roballos (at the latitude of Bajo Caracoles) to reach the road to Cochrane. Without a car, it seems we’ll need to use private agencies to get to the national park—do you have any recommendations or suggestions? Also, does anyone know if it’s possible to cross into Chile via Paso Roballos (from Bajo Caracoles) without a rental car? That is, without having to go all the way down to El Chaltén or back up toward Perito Moreno/Los Antiguos, etc.?
2) The second stretch that seems a bit tricky (though still easier, in theory) is from Caleta Tortel to Villa O’Higgins on the Chilean side. Do we have to go back through Cochrane, or are there ways to get directly from Tortel to Villa O’Higgins?
3) Finally, we’d like to hike into Argentina (El Chaltén) from O’Higgins. Any recommendations for this? Do we need to go through an agency? What’s the estimated duration of the trek?
As you’ve probably gathered, we want to visit some off-the-beaten-path spots but don’t have a car, so we’re looking for the best possible compromises.
Thanks so much in advance for all your suggestions! Thomas
1) From Perito Moreno (the town, near Los Antiguos), we’d like to travel down Ruta 40 to visit Perito Moreno National Park and then cross into Chile via the Paso Roballos (at the latitude of Bajo Caracoles) to reach the road to Cochrane. Without a car, it seems we’ll need to use private agencies to get to the national park—do you have any recommendations or suggestions? Also, does anyone know if it’s possible to cross into Chile via Paso Roballos (from Bajo Caracoles) without a rental car? That is, without having to go all the way down to El Chaltén or back up toward Perito Moreno/Los Antiguos, etc.?
2) The second stretch that seems a bit tricky (though still easier, in theory) is from Caleta Tortel to Villa O’Higgins on the Chilean side. Do we have to go back through Cochrane, or are there ways to get directly from Tortel to Villa O’Higgins?
3) Finally, we’d like to hike into Argentina (El Chaltén) from O’Higgins. Any recommendations for this? Do we need to go through an agency? What’s the estimated duration of the trek?
As you’ve probably gathered, we want to visit some off-the-beaten-path spots but don’t have a car, so we’re looking for the best possible compromises.
Thanks so much in advance for all your suggestions! Thomas
Hi,
we’re planning a round trip from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, to Salta, Argentina, in two months. On the way there, we’ll take the northern route via Susques, Route 27, then 52. But for the return, we were thinking of taking the southern route via San Antonio de los Cobres, Route 51, then 23. Is it similar to the northern route in terms of road surface? How busy is it, and are there gas stations? Basically, should we be worried about doing it in an SUV that’s supposedly 4x4 but has regular road tires and no second spare wheel, obviously...
I’ve seen that we can stop over in San Antonio de los Cobres.
Thanks for your feedback.
Raf.
Hi,
we’ll be in Calama at the end of March 2026, and I’m looking for a reliable car rental there for a 7-day road trip to Salta, Argentina. But I’m struggling with the car rental agencies in Calama because the reviews can be scary. I saw Gyg, which has great ratings, but I’m a bit wary (5/5 from 59 reviews—either the guy’s amazing or it’s fake...), but I can’t find any recent reviews on VF in general.
For Punta Arenas, I booked with Dachelet and didn’t have any issues with email exchanges.
Thanks in advance.
Raf.
Hi everyone!
I’m planning the trip of my dreams for next November—Chile! I’d love to get your thoughts on my potential itinerary. I know it’s a big investment in terms of both time and money, so every bit of feedback, suggestion, or info helps immensely. Thank you in advance!!
1-Flight to Santiago
2-Explore Santiago
3-Explore Santiago
4-Bus from STG to Valpo (2h) + visit Valparaíso + night in Viña
5-Visit Valparaíso + bus back to STG (2h)
6-Flight to Calama + bus to San Pedro + explore and acclimate in San Pedro + car rental in the afternoon (+Chaxa?)
7-(Very early) Valle del Arcoíris + Laguna Cejar + Valle de la Luna
8-Laguna Miñiques & Miscanti + Salar de Talar + Laguna Tuyajto
9-Geysers El Tatio early in the morning + Cañón de Guatín + return car
10-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni
11-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni
12-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni
13-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni + return to San Pedro for the night
14-Bus to Calama + flight Calama-La Serena + explore La Serena
15-Excursion to Reserva Pingüino + bonus time (sunset at Playa Tongoy or elsewhere...)
16-Rent a car in Pisco Elqui & Vicuña + Observatory
17-Return car in La Serena + flight Santiago & Puerto Montt (4h)
18-Rent a 4x2 car + drive to Temuco (4h)
19-Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello + hike + night in Temuco
20-Parque Nacional Conguillío then drive and night in Pucón
21-Villarrica Volcano
22-Parque Huerquehue
23-Activities on-site
24-Drive to Valdivia + explore and night there
25-Drive to Puerto Varas (via Frutillar, etc.) + activities on-site
26-Salto Las Cascadas + Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales (Salto del Petrohué) + Canoeing/Rafting?
27-Drive to Parque Alerce Andino (round trip 3h) + hike Sendero Sargazo?
28-Drive to Castro + explore Chiloé and night in Castro
29-Explore Chiloé
30-Explore Chiloé + return to Puerto Varas
31-Drive to Cochamó (1h30) + drive to Hornopirén (2h30)
32-Ferry to Caleta Gonzalo + drive to Chaitén (1h20)
33-Parque Nacional Pumalín, night in Chaitén
34-Drive to Puyuhuapi + Sendero Ventisquero Yelcho?
35-Ventisquero Colgante + drive to Coyhaique
36-Drive to Villa Cerro Castillo
37-Hike Cerro Castillo
38-Drive to Puerto Río Tranquilo
39-Excursion to Glaciar Exploradores
40-Mármol Cathedral + lake activities
41-Drive to Cochrane
42-Parque Patagonia
43-Drive to Chile Chico
44-Ferry Chile Chico-Ibañez + drive to Coyhaique + drop off car
45-Flight to Punta Arenas (1h30) + explore the city
46-Rent a car + drive to Puerto Natales
47-Drive to Torres del Paine in the morning + hike to the base of the towers (return to Puerto Natales for the night)
48-Torres del Paine hike 2 (return to Puerto Natales for the night)
49-Torres del Paine hike 3 (return to Puerto Natales for the night)
50-Drive to Punta Arenas
51-Flight Punta Arenas-Santiago + flight Santiago-Buenos Aires (2h)
52-Explore Buenos Aires
53-Explore Buenos Aires
54-Explore Buenos Aires
55-Flight back to France
I’m planning the trip of my dreams for next November—Chile! I’d love to get your thoughts on my potential itinerary. I know it’s a big investment in terms of both time and money, so every bit of feedback, suggestion, or info helps immensely. Thank you in advance!!
1-Flight to Santiago
2-Explore Santiago
3-Explore Santiago
4-Bus from STG to Valpo (2h) + visit Valparaíso + night in Viña
5-Visit Valparaíso + bus back to STG (2h)
6-Flight to Calama + bus to San Pedro + explore and acclimate in San Pedro + car rental in the afternoon (+Chaxa?)
7-(Very early) Valle del Arcoíris + Laguna Cejar + Valle de la Luna
8-Laguna Miñiques & Miscanti + Salar de Talar + Laguna Tuyajto
9-Geysers El Tatio early in the morning + Cañón de Guatín + return car
10-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni
11-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni
12-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni
13-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni + return to San Pedro for the night
14-Bus to Calama + flight Calama-La Serena + explore La Serena
15-Excursion to Reserva Pingüino + bonus time (sunset at Playa Tongoy or elsewhere...)
16-Rent a car in Pisco Elqui & Vicuña + Observatory
17-Return car in La Serena + flight Santiago & Puerto Montt (4h)
18-Rent a 4x2 car + drive to Temuco (4h)
19-Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello + hike + night in Temuco
20-Parque Nacional Conguillío then drive and night in Pucón
21-Villarrica Volcano
22-Parque Huerquehue
23-Activities on-site
24-Drive to Valdivia + explore and night there
25-Drive to Puerto Varas (via Frutillar, etc.) + activities on-site
26-Salto Las Cascadas + Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales (Salto del Petrohué) + Canoeing/Rafting?
27-Drive to Parque Alerce Andino (round trip 3h) + hike Sendero Sargazo?
28-Drive to Castro + explore Chiloé and night in Castro
29-Explore Chiloé
30-Explore Chiloé + return to Puerto Varas
31-Drive to Cochamó (1h30) + drive to Hornopirén (2h30)
32-Ferry to Caleta Gonzalo + drive to Chaitén (1h20)
33-Parque Nacional Pumalín, night in Chaitén
34-Drive to Puyuhuapi + Sendero Ventisquero Yelcho?
35-Ventisquero Colgante + drive to Coyhaique
36-Drive to Villa Cerro Castillo
37-Hike Cerro Castillo
38-Drive to Puerto Río Tranquilo
39-Excursion to Glaciar Exploradores
40-Mármol Cathedral + lake activities
41-Drive to Cochrane
42-Parque Patagonia
43-Drive to Chile Chico
44-Ferry Chile Chico-Ibañez + drive to Coyhaique + drop off car
45-Flight to Punta Arenas (1h30) + explore the city
46-Rent a car + drive to Puerto Natales
47-Drive to Torres del Paine in the morning + hike to the base of the towers (return to Puerto Natales for the night)
48-Torres del Paine hike 2 (return to Puerto Natales for the night)
49-Torres del Paine hike 3 (return to Puerto Natales for the night)
50-Drive to Punta Arenas
51-Flight Punta Arenas-Santiago + flight Santiago-Buenos Aires (2h)
52-Explore Buenos Aires
53-Explore Buenos Aires
54-Explore Buenos Aires
55-Flight back to France
Good evening,
We’d love to go in November to enjoy some beautiful beaches for about two weeks, preferably around Bahia, as November/December seems like a great time.
We’ve already traveled to Brazil several times and know the south of Rio as well as the region between São Luís and Fortaleza, and Chapada Diamantina...
What advice would you give us: the south with Itaparica, Morro de São Paulo, Boipeba, Barra Grande—or all four? Or maybe the north?
Thanks in advance for your help
Hi everyone, it’s been a while since I last posted!
First time in South America for me, my wife, and our 7-year-old son. I’ve put together this itinerary and would love to hear your thoughts:
Bogotá 28/07 – 30/07: Arrival. Which neighborhood and outings would you recommend? Flight to
2 Filandia 30/07 – 03/08: (255 €). Waterfalls and horseback riding, Cocora Valley, Hiking, Nearby villages. Flight to 3 Tayrona 03/08 – 07/08: Hotel La Casablanca
Hike with Tierra Nevada and the Kogui village (any feedback?). Return by inner tube for the little one. Short night hike. Second hike to La Piscina, etc., return by 🐎.
4 Cartagena 07/08 – 10/08: Air-conditioned bus. Staying in Getsemaní? Mangroves & the Castle, exploring the city.
5 Bogotá 10/08 – 12/08
Feel free to share your feedback! Have a great day!
Seb
First time in South America for me, my wife, and our 7-year-old son. I’ve put together this itinerary and would love to hear your thoughts:
Bogotá 28/07 – 30/07: Arrival. Which neighborhood and outings would you recommend? Flight to
2 Filandia 30/07 – 03/08: (255 €). Waterfalls and horseback riding, Cocora Valley, Hiking, Nearby villages. Flight to 3 Tayrona 03/08 – 07/08: Hotel La Casablanca
Hike with Tierra Nevada and the Kogui village (any feedback?). Return by inner tube for the little one. Short night hike. Second hike to La Piscina, etc., return by 🐎.
4 Cartagena 07/08 – 10/08: Air-conditioned bus. Staying in Getsemaní? Mangroves & the Castle, exploring the city.
5 Bogotá 10/08 – 12/08
Feel free to share your feedback! Have a great day!
Seb
Hi,
During an upcoming trip to Peru, we’ll have one day to explore around Arequipa (excluding Colca Canyon) with a car and driver.
We’ve got a few options:
- Toro Muerto petroglyphs and dinosaur footprints at Querulpa
- Ruta del Sillar and Quebrada de Culebrillas
What do you think? Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance! Larri
What do you think? Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance! Larri







