bonjour,
je pars au sulawesi fin juillet,
(nous allons visiter le pays toraja et la réserve de Morowali),
Les iles banggai me tente beaucoup mais je n'arrive pas à me faire une idée du trajet (sachant que nous arriverions de Morowali) et que j'aimerais bien aller un peu plus loin que Banggai island et visiter une partie de l'archipel,
avez vous des infos sur les durées approximatives des trajets entre iles, de combien de temps il faut au minimum à prévoir pour avoir toutefois le temps de partager et rencontrer ;)
merci
Les ferries partent de Luwuk, y'en a deux.
Le ferry de nuit est direct et va à Banggai, ayant le sommeil léger je ne l'ai pas emprunté. Il met 8-10h, tu arrives à Banggai au petit matin.
Le ferry de jour, le Tanjung Api, part de Luwuk en fin de matinée, il arrive à Salakan sur Pulau Peleng, me souviens plus ça met quelque chose comme 5-6h. Contrairement aux autres ferries ASDP, celui là est tout beau tout neuf 🙂
De Salakan il faut chartériser un taxi assez cher (dans les 150.000 si mes souvenirs sont bons) qui te pose à Tobing, sud de Pulau Peleng. On va dire une bonne heure de route de mémoire. La route est sympa, et ayant eu l'occasion de longer la grande Ile Peleng en ferry, j'ai aperçu des paysages très chouettes. Mais l'île est immense et comme il n'existe aucune information touristique, on sait pas trop comment la visiter.
Ensuite, de Tobing (toujours sur Pulau Peleng) il y a des petits bateaux en bois qui amènent à Banggai (l'île et la ville du même nom, capitale de l'archipel des Banggai). Disons 2h de trajet.
Ca parait compliqué comme ça mais c'est bien rodé, tu arrives à Banggai vers 20h. Dans la ville de Banggai il y a 2-3 hôtels (les seuls de tout l'archipel, ils hébergent principalement des fonctionnaires indonésiens en mission).
Banggai en elle-même n'offre guère d'intérêt, si ce n'est le fait d'y rencontrer Suhardin, un fonctionnaire local qui aime rencontrer les touristes et n'hésite pas à dialoguer par SMS même si tu es en France (même encore maintenant j'ai droit à mon "comment ça va?" mensuel 😏)... Suhardin t'organisera un séjour à Bangkurung chez son frère, pêcheur avant tout et guide 1 ou 2 fois dans l'année (puisque c'est en gros le nombre de touristes qui passent par an à Bangkurung... 😉)
Justement la partie intéressante de l'archipel se situe autour de l'île de Bangkurung, situtée à 4-5h de ferry (encore!) de la ville de Banggai. Sur l'île de Bangkurung, tu as le village de Lala, où vit le frère de Suhardin, Papa Sarah, qui peut t'héberger en pension complète et te guider dans l'archipel avec son bateau. Pour finir de répondre à ta question de "temps entre les Iles Banggai", les sorties se font depuis Lala, la plupart du temps à la journée. Mais évidemment tu ne visites qu'une toute petite partie des Iles Banggai... il faudrait des mois pour faire le tour de tout l'archipel.
J'ai passé 2 semaines dans l'archipel en février dernier, c'est le plus bel archipel que j'ai jamais vu en Indo (et pourtant la barre était placée haute avec les Iles Moluques découvertes l'année d'avant...). Si tu es vraiment "sac à dos, découverte des locaux", tu vas être comblée 🙂 Par contre les fonds marins sont moins beaux qu'aux Togian (de ce que j'ai vu en tous cas), la pêche à la bombe est encore très pratiquée 🙁
Pour découvrir les secrets des Banggai, il faut beaucoup de temps et de souplesse dans son agenda voyage, faire une totale abstraction du confort, ne pas être en attente d'une "prestation touristique" de la part de Papa Sarah qui est pêcheur avant tout, et si possible parler un peu le Bahasa Indonesia car personne ne parle anglais, sauf Suhardin (mais il est peu probable qu'il puisse accompagner à cause de son boulot).
Attention le climat aux Iles Banggai est assez unique par rapport au reste de l'Indonésie, les mois les plus pluvieux sont mai juin juillet. Papa Sarah m'a dit qu'il ne pleut pas tant que ça.
A noter qu'il existe un ferry direct Luwuk-Bangkurung, mais alors pour connaître le jour où il est censé passer il faut consulter un sorcier. Je l'ai vu passer une fois à Lala pendant mon séjour de 2 semaines, et personne n'était au courant de son passage.
Voici le village de Lala sur Bangkurung Island, la femme de Papa Sarah tout à gauche, adossée à sa maison (donc ta chambre 😎)
Papa Sarah (bon, de dos, tant pis 😎)
Et son "staff" (heu... le village Bajau derrière devrait te plaire)
Oula oula c'est quoi ces photos? 😮
VF étant victime de son succès, je me permets de rajouter une 2ème couche d'anti-parasite:
- AVOIR DU TEMPS DEVANT SOI, PLEIN
- SE FOUTRE TOTALEMENT DU CONFORT
- SAVOIR SE DEBROUILLER EN BAHASA INDONESIA
- AUCUNE INFRASTRUCTURE TOURISTIQUE ET HOTELIERE SUR PLACE, VOYAGEUR-CONSOMMATEUR S'ABSTENIR
bonjour,
et merci pour tes préciseuses infos et tes superbes photos,
et suite à ton retour je pense que je vais devoir faire un choix entre les banggai et morowali sinon je n'aurais pas assez de temps ( il me reste 7 jours et ça me semble trop court...)
mon coeur balance
je me replonge sur le sujet !!
merci encore
saurais tu me dire les jours de départ des 2 ferrys de luwuk ?
Oula non ! 😇 Mais plusieurs fois par semaine c'est sûr. J'ai pas eu besoin de passer une journée entière à Luwuk, j'ai eu mon bateau le jour souhaité... idem pour Bangkurung...
Avant tout, merci pour ces infos sur les Banggai, elles sont tellement rares.
Je pars dans quelques jours pour Jakarta puis environ six semaines à Sulawesi (où je ne compte pas monter plus haut que les Togian, donc en prenant mon temps au sud de cette latitude).
Je lorgne donc depuis un moment sur les Banggai (je pense pouvoir y trouver un peu de l'isolement que j'avais beaucoup aimé aux Pulau Banyak, Sumatra nord-ouest, il y a une dizaine d'années). J'aimerais te poser quelques questions pratiques en vrac. Grand merci d'avance si tu peux me renseigner :
1) Comment es-tu arrivé à Luwuk ? Et en est reparti ? Ça m'intéresse surtout de le savoir s'il y est question d'avion car je me dis qu'une fois arrivé à cette extrémité de Sulawesi, je pourrais peut-être me payer un vol de retour Luwuk-Makassar. Donc si tu as des infos à ce sujet...
2) Sais-tu si le change d'argent se fait facilement à Luwuk ?
3) Où/comment puis-je trouver Suhardin à Banggai ?
J'ai aussi suivi tes échanges à ce sujet avec Giacitto sur le LP anglo. Pourrais-tu me confirmer que tu as rémunéré Papa Sarah et sa famille de cette façon (je précise que mon but n'est pas de ne pas "payer un sou de trop" mais, ayant très souvent logé chez l'habitant dans d'autres pays d'ASE proches, j'ai bien constaté que payer un "prix objectif" favorisait des relations saines avec les hôtes et, par ailleurs, permettait de ne pas perturber le regard des voisins sur les hôtes en question...). J'ai donc noté : "150.000 per day for accomodation + food (for 3 people), 100.000 per day for Papa Sarah as guide, and 150.000 per day for the boat rental (I paid petrol separately)".
4) "3 people", étaient-ce toi + deux autres bule ? Ou étaient-ce toi + 2 personnes de la famille de Suhardin ?
5) Confirmes-tu que la rémunération de Papa Sarah à la journée avec location de son bateau = 100.000 + 150.000 + coût essence ?
Terima kasih banyak !
A +
321
200 jours à pied,
seul, sans guide,
aux confins du Laos : CLIC
Alhamdulillah 🙂🙂 Trop content de recevoir ce message car:
1/ y'en a pas souvent des comme ça !
2/ en janvier figures toi que je vais aux iles Beaucoup à Sumatra... alors on va s'entraider cher ami n'est-ce pas? 🙂
Luwuk...
Je sais plus où j'avais lu ça, peut-être dans le Lonely, il parait que c'est pas facile d'aller à Luwuk, ceci n'est plus d'actualité, il y a 4 compagnies aériennes qui font Makassar-Luwuk chaque jour, notamment Merpati et Batavia, les 2 autres j'ai oublié...
Pour le change, je ne peux pas te répondre dans l'absolu car je ne change jamais d'argent en Indo, vu que j'ai ouvert un compte bancaire à Rumaji, je lui fais un virement avant de partir et ensuite on voyage avec sa carte de retrait ce qui m'évite les frais bancaires à chaque fois. Ceci dit, y'a pratiquement aucun touriste à Luwuk, donc à mon avis si change il y a le taux doit être + que merdique... Par contre y'a des ATM, et même à Banggai (Banggai Kota étant la capitale des iles Banggai).
Suhardin
Il vaut mieux le contacter par SMS un peu à l'avance de façon à ce qu'il ait le temps de prévenir Papa Sarah, qui est à 4h de ferry de Banggai. Comme il n'y a pas de téléphone sur son île, il faut qu'il lui envoie une lettre pour le prévenir. Bon ceci dit si tu arrives à l'improviste, tu ne les prendra pas au dépourvu, on est en Indonésie 😉 Suhardin je sais où il habite dans la ville de Banggai mais je serai bien incapable de t'expliquer, donnes lui plutôt RDV par SMS. Si tu loupes Suhardin, c'est pas dramatique, car en fait il se contente de t'envoyer à son frère Papa Sarah, mais bon il aime tellement causer aux étrangers que je pense qu'il serait vexé s'il se trouve court-circuité...
Les people
Y'avait moi + mon pote Abel donc bule normal + Rumaji bule local. Donc 2 vrais touristes + 1 faux 😎
Sur les prix, c'est pas évident, j'aie essayé d'être correct par rapport aux prix pratiqués dans les régions plus touristiques et aussi par rapport au niveau de vie local dans l'archipel (en gros si tu chartérise un bateau faut que le mec gagne au moins ce qu'il gagnerait en une journée de pêche), mais tout en allant pas trop haut pour pas créer d'inflation. Pas facile tout ça, les 1ers touristes à débarquer dans une région ont une lourde responsabilité...
Les 150.000 c'était tout inclus: dodo + bouffe pour 3.
Ensuite 100.000 pour Papa Sarah, les jours où il nous guidait dans l'archipel.
150.000 pour le bateau dans la mesure où Papa Sarah n'a pas un bateau assez gros, donc doit louer à un autre pêcheur (un peu cher, on a pas mal négocié, mais d'un côté je comprends pendant qu'il nous trimbalait il bossait pas). En principe octobre la mer est très calme et normalement le bateau de Papa Sarah doit suffir donc tu dois pouvoir payer moins cher.
En effet, dans ce genre de trip, je règle toujours l'essence à part de façon à ne pas me retrouver prisonnier d'un "forfait -pétrole"...
Bon... maintenant si tu es sage 😛
A savoir:
1/ tu acceptes de faire le facteur pour moi, c'est à dire tu assures une distribution de photos sur place...
2/ tu me donnes des infos sur les Iles Banyak, notamment si c'est la grosse galère pour y aller et si c'est ambiance surf comme ça donne l'impression de Lonelyplanet, et si y'a des plages qui déchirent vraiment ou pas....
Si tu es sage donc.... je te donnerai un endroit dont j'ai jamais parlé ici, où tu auras la possibilité de vivre une expérience hors du commun avec les Bajau Laut... par exemple tu pourras pêcher dans leur cuisine 🙂
Prévois un petit matelas gonflable si tu veux pas dormir directement sur les lattes en bambou. Au fait, voyages tu avec un laptop? Auquel cas en + de faire facteur tu pourras leur montrer un film qu'ils veulent voir depuis 3 ans (normal ils sont dedans!)
Bon, de ton côté, si tu as des photos des zindigènes des Iles Banyak, je suis + que preneur, car la distribution de photos est une excellente porte d'entrée 🙂
Bref faudrait, si tu le souhaites, qu'on se capte physiquement avant ton départ... ça me donnera l'occasion de te filer une carte précise de l'archipel, introuvable sur internet, carte que j'ai pris en photo dans un hôtel à Luwuk.
Attends, je vérifie un truc, ouais c'est bon cette discussion n'est pas trop lue, j'vais donc conclure par ça 🙂
Pour Pulau Banyak, je préfère te prévenir que cela date d'il y a 10 ans... Pauvre de moi, je ne me souviens d'ailleurs même pas du nom d'une seule des îles. Mais avec la carte du LP sous les yeux cela devrait revenir (en tout cas à l'époque il contenait une carte de l'archipel, est-ce toujours le cas...). Donc si on se croise à Lyon, stp apporte le LP si tu l'as (je n'ai que les photocopies du chapitre Sulawesi). Je n'ai pas de photos non plus, je n'en prenais pas du tout à l'époque (et encore très peu actuellement, je n'ai d'ailleurs toujours pas d'appareil numérique, et ne compte pas apporter mon pauv' petit appareil compact à peloch' à Sulawesi).
Je crains donc tellement de te décevoir au niveau des infos sur Pulau Banyak. J'ai honte, après toutes celles que tu as apportées sur les Banggai ! Tu veux pas plutôt des infos sur les zones isolées du nord Laos ? 🙂
Au fait, l'épicentre du séisme qui a provoqué le tsunami de 2004 se situait apparemment vraiment tout proche de l'archipel des Banyak. Qu'est-ce que cela a pu provoquer sur place, sachant que la plupart des îlots ne sont que des coconuts gardens situés à fleur de l'eau (?)...
Pas de problème pour apporter des photos à Banggai (y'en a pas un kilo hein ? je suis un forcené du sac léger !). Avec toutefois une seule "mise en garde" : je n'ai jamais de programme totalement définitif en voyage. Priorité à l'imprévu. Donc même si je prévois de passer aux Banggai, je ne veux pas te le garantir à 100%. En plus de la totale incertitude de mon parcours (je n'ai pour l'instant décidé d'une seule chose : rejoindre Mamassa après Macassar ; ensuite tout se décidera sur place au jour le jour) une autre raison me fait également hésiter : le fait que je ne maîtrise rien du bahasa (l'ami Muhammad m'a traduit un lexique "personnalisé", qui devrait m'aider à randonner seul dans les collines du centre, mais il ne me sera d'aucune utilité avec les pêcheurs).
Merci aussi pour la "conclusion".
Je t'envoie un mp.
A +
321
Edit : tiens, toi aussi tu refuses les mp ? (peut-être pour les mêmes raisons que moi...). Bon, je les débloque un instant, le temps que tu me donnes un e-mail ou un tél. Je pars mercredi matin, donc dernier week-end à Lyon si on veut se capter.
200 jours à pied,
seul, sans guide,
aux confins du Laos : CLIC
Pour Pulau Banyak, je préfère te prévenir que cela date d'il y a 10 ans... Pauvre de moi, je ne me souviens d'ailleurs même pas du nom d'une seule des îles. Mais avec la carte du LP sous les yeux cela devrait revenir (en tout cas à l'époque il contenait une carte de l'archipel, est-ce toujours le cas...). Je n'ai pas de photos non plus, je n'en prenais pas du tout à l'époque
Arf 😕... bon, pas grave tant pis !...
Donc si on se croise à Lyon, stp apporte le LP si tu l'as (je n'ai que les photocopies du chapitre Sulawesi).
Je l'ai pas, en fait je télécharge les chapitres sur le site du LP, ça permet d'avoir la dernière édition et de voyager sans se trimbaler un moellon dans le sac.
Au fait, l'épicentre du séisme qui a provoqué le tsunami de 2004 se situait apparemment vraiment tout proche de l'archipel des Banyak. Qu'est-ce que cela a pu provoquer sur place, sachant que la plupart des îlots ne sont que des coconuts gardens situés à fleur de l'eau (?)...
C'est vrai ça, j'y avais pas pensé !... j'espère que c'est pas trop abîmé 🏴☠️ Bon de toutes façons chuis comme toi rien n'est fixé, j'ai 6 semaines pour découvrir Padang / Mentawai / Toba / Banyak, ça me parait un peu juste...
Pas de problème pour apporter des photos à Banggai (y'en a pas un kilo hein ? je suis un forcené du sac léger !).
Heu... comme j'imprime en A4 je vais faire un tri 😉
Avec toutefois une seule "mise en garde" : je n'ai jamais de programme totalement définitif en voyage. Priorité à l'imprévu.
T'inquiète c'est les contraintes du métier !
une autre raison me fait également hésiter : le fait que je ne maîtrise rien du bahasa
oula !! zut alors, moi qui me réjouissais d'exercer mon bahasa cette semaine, c'est raté! ça va être fun avec Papa Sarah, la langue des signes 😏
tiens, toi aussi tu refuses les mp ? (peut-être pour les mêmes raisons que moi...).
Probablement... moi chuis nul en adresses d'hôtels et pas mieux s'il faut donner la solution à "comment optimiser mon marathon en Indonésie" 😏
Bon je t'ai envoyé mon mail en MP, et on se rencarde rapidement.
bonjour 321,
j'étais à l'origine de cette discussion mais mon voyage à été annulé l'année dernière faute à une vilaine fracture du bassin, du coup nous partons au sulawesi fin juillet
es tu finalement parti ?
si oui, si tu as des infos de ton côté sur les jours de départ du ferry luwuk > banggai
(j'aurai préféré un bitung luwuk, mais vu tes posts tu arrivais du sud)
et puis si tu as des infos, bon plan, coup de coeur,
je prends
merci ausii à lolodesîles et toutes ses infos précieuses que je reprends avec intérêt
Non, je ne suis finalement pas allé jusqu'aux Banggaï. Pour cause de niveau de bahasa trop faible. Car dans ce genre de coin, je trouve l'intérêt de la chose tout de suite très limité si je ne peux pas causer un minimum avec les locaux.
Je suis allé jusqu'à Luwuk, mais uniquement pour acheter puis prendre un vol de retour vers Jakarta.
Mais Lolo' t'a fait ci-dessus un topo au poil au sujet des ferries. Je ne pense pas que la fréquence des départs ait beaucoup changé depuis. Donc c'est lui qu'il faut réinterroger si tu as besoin de plus de détails à ce sujet.
A +
321
200 jours à pied,
seul, sans guide,
aux confins du Laos : CLIC
je me rends cet été aux sulawesi debut aout et il est difficile de faire un choix sachant que je ne veux pas me depecher et zapper sans arret
as tu eu le temps d 'aller aux bangai et a la reserve morowali, c 'est ce que je voudrais faire en 15/ 17 jours avant de repartir sur lombok
que peux tu me donner comme conseils ? de la pluie? difficile de s 'y rendre, les fonds marins sont ils bien ? et la reserve as tu pu observer des animaux?les logements, les transports, etccc
enfin toutes les infos et conseils me seront utiles pour organiser tout ça et y voir plus clair
Bonjour,
Je viens d'arriver à Luwuk et malgré de multiples tentatives je ne parvient pas à téléphoner à Mr Suhardin. Je crois que le numéro n'existe plus. Aurais tu un autre numéro ou des infos complémentaires pour le contacter ?
Ps : merci pour tes précieuses infos sur les Banggai.
Merci pour ta réponse qui commence déjà à dater...
Nous avons passé une semaine formidable chez Papa Sarah en juillet dernier. De retour en france, j'avais promis à Papa Sarah de lui envoyer des photos par mail, via M. Suhardin. Aurais-tu son adresse mail ?
bonjour Vincent
Non désolé, car les Indonésiens n'utilisent pas les email...
Par contre j'ai son facebook https://www.facebook.com/suhardin.imaa et j'ai même retrouvé son whatsapp +6281245119548
J'en déduis donc que Papa Sarah n'est toujours pas connecté 😉
haha décidément 😏 Mais ça va j'ai son facebook également ! C'est marrant ça, d'habitude les indonésiens ne marchent pas par mail (mais il est vrai qu'il est fonctionnaire alors il s'en sert peut-être davantage)
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Hi! I’d like to split my trip into two parts: 15 days in Phuket and 15 days in Krabi. Do you know if I can rent a car and drop it off in Krabi when I fly back to France?
Thanks for your feedback!
Have a great Sunday!
Martine
Hi fellow travelers,
First trip to Vietnam.
We’ll be arriving in Ho Chi Minh City during Tet.
Is it complicated to find accommodation and get around during this period?
Any tips would be welcome.
Thanks for your replies.
Hello,
After 1 night in Khao Sok, I’d like to find a 2 Days 1 Night package on the lake.
After reading a lot, I decided to "break the bank" and treat ourselves to a private tour—mainly to avoid the crowds.
But after contacting several operators, they offer "private tours" that are very expensive (around 700 €), yet in the details, the boats can only leave from the pier at 10 AM like everyone else. (I was hoping to leave much earlier.) The morning program is the same for everyone too (private or not). They drop us off at noon at our floating hotel (I’d chosen Phupha Waree). Free afternoon (swimming or kayaking in front of the hotel). We head back by boat for a 1-hour sunset ride. And the next morning, we leave the hotel at 8 AM to be at the pier by 9:30 AM at the latest—end of the trip.
So basically, we’re paying a lot for a private tour just to do the same thing as everyone else at the same time.
Or maybe I just had bad luck in my search.
I contacted Panida Ladi, who’s very popular on forums. We’d agreed on a private tour that matched my request (departure from the pier at 8 AM, very personalized itinerary). We settled on the itinerary and price, she asked for a Wise transfer for a 30% deposit, confirmed receipt of the deposit. Then 30 minutes later, she messaged me to say she was canceling everything because it was impossible to do the requested tour—and promised a quick refund of my deposit.
So here’s my question: Who’s done a *real* private tour on this lake? Who can recommend a reliable agency? Is it even really possible to do a private tour here?
Hi,
I wanted to get some info about the cable car and the bridge—I see lots of different options...
How much time should we allow for these two activities? If we arrive around 4 PM, will we have enough time to visit without rushing?
Thanks
I’m searching for a real gem for my 3rd stay in Koh Lanta: a lovely, high-quality hotel right by an easily accessible beach in a lively spot.
If you know of anything that fits what I’m looking for and want to share, don’t hesitate!
Hi,
On September 1st, we're heading to Kalimantan for six weeks, probably from Pontianak to the Derawan Islands.
I've scoured this site, which is usually my go-to 😉, and others like VoyageForum, but recent info is pretty scarce.
I'd love any tips on places you've visited—our itinerary is still a work in progress.
We're two couples traveling with backpacks, using buses, boats, guesthouses, and homestays.
Thanks in advance!
Hi, is anyone there in Flores right now? According to some websites, everything is closed and the situation is tough. But our guide says it's fine. Who should we believe? We're supposed to leave on September 2nd. Thanks to anyone in Flores at the moment!
Hi dear community,
I'm planning to visit Cambodia this winter, right after Christmas, for my first solo trip and my first trip to Asia. For two weeks (yes, I know it's short, but I really can't do more...). I have two main desires: Siem Reap and the countryside, the villages, the Mekong...
What do you think of this itinerary? Arrival in Siem Reap, departure from Phnom Penh.
SR: 5 days (1 day for arrival, 3 for the temples, 1 for the lake and its villages)
Kratie (stop on the way to Mondolkiri): 3 days (1 day of travel, 2 days there)
Mondolkiri/Sen Monorom: 4 days (1 day of travel, 1 day there, 2 days of treks)
PP: 3 days (1 day of travel, 2 days of sightseeing)
I think I need to cut one day somewhere if I travel from Saturday to Saturday or Sunday to Sunday. In Kratie, maybe? Or in PP? And I'll miss the boat trip that everyone recommends (SR-Battambang), but I don't see where to fit it in. Unless I do a PP-PP loop starting in the east, skip Kratie or just stay one night, then SR, then PP.
In my timing, Mondolkiri seems closer than Ratanakiri, which also tempted me a lot! Will it be too complicated alone? I'm thinking of using local guides or a small local agency for a nature and village getaway.
I've read that Siem Reap is very crowded between Christmas and New Year's. I could also do the circuit in the opposite direction. But I thought it would be easier to get familiar with the country by arriving in a touristy area—I might be wrong...
Thanks for your advice and opinions!
Hi everyone.
I’m planning my trip, and based on all the posts I’ve read, this country is amazing.
Of course, I’ve got a ton of questions for you.
Here’s a possible itinerary: Vientiane - Vang Vieng - Phonsavan - Sam Neua - Nong Khiaw + villages - Phongsali - Luang Namtha and the area - Udomxai - Huay Xai - Luang Prabang and back to Vientiane.
What do you think?
We’re planning to prioritize local transport—is it possible to do this loop?
We’d also love to go kayaking, but I’m not sure if the season’s right or where the best spot is.
For trekking—I read that Phongsali is the most authentic spot to visit villages and see wildlife. Do you know of a reliable agency and a guesthouse with reasonable prices?
Is it worth taking a slow boat for a stretch on the Mekong, and if so, which route?
For accommodations, is it better to book through Booking.com and Agoda or look when we arrive?
Are mosquitoes bad in Laos, and should we take malaria prophylaxis?
What’s the average daily budget (accommodation, food, visits)?
Is renting scooters a good option for exploring towns, and if so, which ones?
From what I’ve read, it’s best to carry cash—euros or dollars? Is it risky to walk around with that much cash?
I’ve still got tons of questions. Thanks to anyone who can help, and I’m open to all tips, info, etc.
Thanks again
Hi there,
I’m planning a trip to Vietnam in February, specifically Da Nang and Hoi An.
Does anyone know a French-speaking guide in the area?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
I’m planning a family trip (my wife and I, both 47, and our two sons, aged 5 and 12) to Malaysia for the last week of June and the first two weeks of July 2027.
We used to love road trips as a couple, then as a trio, but since our second child arrived, we’ve taken a break with "camping village" style trips.
Now feels like the right time to get back to our old habits, while adjusting the pace for the kids.
We’re craving Asia. We’ve been lucky enough to visit Thailand, Indonesia (Bali and Lombok), and Sri Lanka before.
Friends have raved about Malaysia, so we’re definitely tempted.
For those who know and love Malaysia, what would be a good itinerary starting from Kuala Lumpur, with a maximum of 3-4 stops? We’d like a mix of culture, nature, and relaxation (just to clarify, we’re not big beach fans). All of this without rushing, of course.
Hello,
We’re a family of four with two teens aged 16 and 18. We’re heading to Thailand this summer. We’ll arrive in Bangkok and plan to take a flight to Luang Prabang.
I’ve seen there are some great visits and excursions to do (temples, markets, waterfalls) and maybe even venture a bit north to places like Nong Khiaw, Muang Xay, Muang Ngoy, or Oudom Xay.
But I’ve also heard about the Bokeo region with the Gibbon Experience.
Since we won’t be able to do everything, I’d love to hear about your experiences, impressions, and advice on the two options I’m considering, especially since we’ll be meeting family in Chiang Mai, Thailand, afterward.
Option 1: A loop from Luang Prabang heading slightly north, then a flight from Luang Prabang to Chiang Mai.
Option 2: A few days in Luang Prabang, exploring within a few dozen kilometers around, then heading to Bokeo province for the 2-day/1-night Gibbon Experience. For this option, I saw on Rome2Rio that it’s possible to book a ferry trip on the Mekong from Luang Prabang to Huay Xay—they mention about 8 hours. But is that realistic? What type of boat is it?
Then, to get to Chiang Mai, there aren’t many options—bus or minivan—but how does crossing the border work?
Finally, for those of you who’ve been to Laos in August, what was the weather like?
We’ve already visited Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia during the same period over the past four years and weren’t really bothered by bad weather.
I’m starting a discussion about guides in the Mekong Delta because we’ve just finished our trip in this region and had a hard time finding a French-speaking guide. We had Thanh—she speaks French really well and travels all over the delta region, including Ho Chi Minh City. She’s super friendly and flexible. I recommend her wholeheartedly. If it can help someone...
Feel free to contact us for her number.
Hi everyone,
I couldn’t find any recent info on Kuching.
Can anyone recommend a hotel or guesthouse for under 100 RM that’s nice and affordable? No dorms, please.
Also, does it rain a lot in November, and is it still worth visiting Semenggoh or Bako?
We’ll be arriving in Phnom Penh this coming January and we’re thinking of starting our trip with a stop in Kampong Cham, then Kratie.
After Kratie, we’re considering heading toward Siem Reap with a stop in Kampong Thom.
That said, I’m not really sure how long the Kratie–Kampong Thom journey might take or how complicated it is.
Does this stop on the way to Siem Reap seem like a good idea to you?
If we don’t visit the Sambor Prei Kuk site, are there still any walks or sights worth checking out in Kampong Thom?
Silly question—backpack or hard-shell suitcase for the Sepilok, Kinabatangan, Tioman, KL trip?
I’m struggling to fit all my son’s and my stuff into the 70L backpack... and I’m thinking a suitcase would be easier, but I’m not sure if it’ll work for getting around.
Hi there,
I didn’t plan to return to Thailand this year, but my health conditions mean it’ll be the best place for me to stay between two trips to India. The tourism setup there is so well-organized that it’s the most "comfortable" country for a short visit. Thailand feels too sanitized for my taste, and there’s too much religion, Buddha, and the King, but it’s still the best option given how my health has been evolving. I’d considered two weeks in ThaTon for hiking, but I got too sick from the burn-offs during my trips to the mountains around Chiang Rai. So I’m not sure where to go this year. Definitely not the sea, touristy spots, or the mountains with burn-offs...
After a stay on Koh Phayam this coming November, I’d like to spend 2 or 3 days on Koh Phra Thong before heading further south.
Do you think it’s doable to leave Koh Phayam early enough to catch the 10 AM boat from Khura Buri to Koh Phra Thong? The next one isn’t until 4 PM, which would cost me a whole day.
I’m planning a trip to Indonesia, specifically Sulawesi and Java, in September for 10 days.
I don’t know this part of the world at all—any advice is welcome!
I’ll be traveling solo and would also love tips on meeting other travelers or locals.
Hello everyone,
Not long ago, I used to travel as a couple, but my husband has since passed away, and I’ve decided to set off again. The trip I took to Cambodia in January 2025 did me a world of good.
I’m now considering Thailand, a destination we never included in our plans because even 15 years ago, people said it was too touristy. Still, I’m thinking about the itinerary below, but I don’t feel up to arranging buses, trains, or guides on my own while I’m there. I’m looking for one or more drivers and have been in touch with an agency, but their offers are just copy-paste group tours that I don’t want.
So, if you have any contacts, experiences, or advice, I’d be so grateful if you’d share them with me. Here’s my rough plan:
Arrival in Bangkok
Ayutthaya (2 nights)
Kanchanaburi (2 or 3 nights)
Sangkhlaburi/Sai Yok (3 nights)
Sukhothai (2 nights)
Lampang (I’ve planned 3 nights, but that might be a bit much—it depends on what time I arrive in the city)
Chiang Mai
Chiang Dao
Pai
Chiang Rai
I was thinking about the Mae Hong Son loop—thoughts?
What do you think about staying overnight at the Golden Triangle?
When I look online, of course, I can find agencies that organize tours to national parks, etc.
I’m retired but in great physical shape. I’d rather go hiking than sit in hot springs with crowds of tourists who’ve all arranged meet-ups. I don’t want to spend a day at an elephant camp, and I don’t want to visit Karen villages.
I’d love to hear your advice.
Thank you all,
Hi everyone,
Could you share your thoughts on my 3-week itinerary?
We’re a small group (family + friends) of 12 people, planning to leave around January 21, 2027.
Here’s my itinerary:
3 nights in Bangkok
4 nights in Chiang Mai
3 nights on Koh Samui
3 nights on Koh Phangan
4 nights in Krabi
4 nights in Phuket
I’m also open to any great tips you might have...
Thanks, everyone! Alain.
Hi,
From Malacca to get to Jerantut, is it better to go back to KL and take a bus from there, or take a bus to Tampin and then a train? Any feedback on the "Jungle Train"? (duration, price, comfort, etc.). Thanks
Hi there,
We’re planning a 3-week family trip next summer with our three kids, who’ll be 8, 8, and 7 years old.
After some research, we’re leaning toward Malaysia to combine nature/forests and paradise beaches. The idea is to introduce our kids to the country’s culture, nature, and wildlife.
We want a great trip but without splurging on luxury options like high-end lodges and resorts. We’re looking for comfort with a touch of authenticity—basically, a good middle ground.
I’ve started putting together an itinerary and would love your expert advice and tips to help us build this amazing trip with our little ones.
Day 1: Departure from France
Day 2: Kuala Lumpur
Stay at a hotel near the airport or KL Sentral.
Just one night.
Day 3: Morning flight to Sandakan (Borneo).
Stay in Sepilok
Day 4: Sepilok:
* Orangutan Center
* Malayan Sun Bear Center
* Rainforest Discovery Centre
Day 5: Depart for Kinabatangan.
Boat safari in the late afternoon.
Day 6: Sunrise safari.
Jungle walk.
Evening safari.
Day 7: Final safari.
Return to Sandakan.
Flight to Kuala Lumpur, then to Kota Bharu (or overnight transit depending on schedules).
Day 8: Transfer to the port.
Boat to the Perhentian Islands.
Days 9 to 13: Perhentian Besar
5 full days.
* Snorkeling
* Hiking
* Turtle watching
* Wild beaches
* Relaxation
Day 14: Return to the mainland.
Bus or private car to Taman Negara.
Hi everyone,
We’re heading to Flores and then Bali at the end of September.
We’ve already visited both but this time, once we’re in Labuan Bajo, we’d like to take a boat to the Komodo Islands to see the famous Komodo dragons.
I don’t want to sleep on the boat—just a day trip would be perfect.
Does anyone know a reliable and friendly provider to recommend?
Thanks in advance, and have a great summer!
Summer seems to be the best time weather-wise for Bali.
And since summer’s when we can take a long trip, let’s go for Bali... even though we know it’ll be *packed* with people!
So we’ll steer clear of the island’s south...
Our current plan (19 days on the ground, 7 stops):
- 4 Nights (3 days) in Ubud
2 days for rice terraces / activities (Tegallalang, Campuhan Ridge, Monkey Forest, Bird Park, coffee plantation, market (?), dance "pestacle," cooking class and/or spa)
1 day with a driver for the Temples (Pura Gunung Kawi, Tirta Empul Spring, Pura Mengening, Goa Gajah...)
- 2 nights in Sidemen (1 day for Pura Kehen + Batur Caldera + Pura Besakih and 1 day to relax in the rice terraces)
- 3 nights on Gili Meno (Rest and beaches) from Padangbai
- 2 nights in Amed (1 day from Padangbai with the Abang rice terrace and Tirta Gangga baths, and the next day a boat tour in Amed)
- 4 nights in Pemuteran (1 day for transfer and rest, 1 day to visit Kawah Ijen, and 2 days of snorkeling at Menjangan Island)
- 2 nights in Munduk (1 day with the Dayang rice terrace and the 3-waterfall hike, 1 day at Pura Ulun Danu Bratan)
- 2 nights in Jatiluwih (1 day in the rice terraces, and on the last day, we’ll stop by Pura Taman Ayun in Mengwi and Pura Tanah Lot before catching our red-eye flight).
Accommodations in homestays or hotels.
Transportation to be arranged on-site with the lodgings (?)
Boat to Gili Meno to book in advance (?)
Kawah Ijen excursion to plan ahead (?)—check with the homestay (?)
Thanks for your thoughts/comments to help us explore this destination...
After reading and researching, we're planning the following stops in Cambodia in January 2027:
- Phnom Penh
- Kampong Cham
- Kratie
- Siem Reap
- Battambang
- Kampot (round trip)
I'm wondering about the direction of these stops, which could also influence our international flights.
Either a round trip from Phnom Penh in the order above.
Or landing in Siem Reap with the following order:
This second option would save us the Battambang - PP - Kampot trip but means doing a round trip to Battambang from Siem Reap and placing the "highlight of the trip" (Angkor) at the beginning of our stay.
Hi there,
We’re planning to travel from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang next November.
We’d like to take a slow boat from Chiang Khong—or rather from Huay Xai in Laos—with an overnight stop in Pakbeng.
Could you let us know if the boat still leaves Huay Xai in the late morning? If so, what time roughly, and what’s the price for the trip?
Thanks for your help!
Alod
We (3 adults: 68, 65, and 25 years old) are just back from a short trip to the Philippines, and I’d like to share a little summary of our journey. First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who contributes to this forum about this destination and answers the questions of those who aren’t familiar with it. I should also mention that my comments are personal and don’t reflect anyone else’s opinions. Since I don’t have any literary or photographic talent, I’ll stick to the facts and share a few details about the sights, hotels, and restaurants.
Preparations:
We chose this destination in December and quickly booked our flight tickets (540 € with Turkish Airlines) for a departure on February 16 and return on March 5, 2019. We then contacted two French-speaking tour operators based in Manila, asking them to put together an itinerary based on our wishes (places to visit, type of accommodation) and our budget. We wanted to see the rice terraces in northern Luzon, the hanging coffins in Sagada, before flying to the Visayas (Bohol, Siquijor, etc.), and the Taal Volcano, while limiting our nights in Manila as much as possible. In the end, we opted for Alize, whose itinerary and quote matched our request almost perfectly. Our exchanges helped us refine our circuit.
International flights:
The round-trip flights went smoothly. Turkish Airlines, while not at the level of Asian or Gulf airlines, does the job just fine.
Day 1:
We landed on time (6:15 PM) on Monday, February 16, at Terminal 3. We exchanged our euros (near the car rental counters), and I can confirm the exchange rate was very good. On the way to the St. Giles Hotel (decent and affordable for a transit night), we got our first glimpse of Manila’s dense traffic. The Makati district, where our hotel was located, offers a wide choice of restaurants, so we grabbed a quick bite to recover from the trip.
Day 2:
This day was dedicated to transferring to Banaue. Fortunately, we had a comfortable van and an excellent driver for this journey, which took all day (8 to 9 hours with stops). We got a taste of driving in the Philippines—and it’s terrifying. You wouldn’t want to drive on these roads. The first thing that struck us was the relatively good condition of the roads and the cleanliness (a change from other Southeast Asian countries). This impression lasted throughout our trip. Around 6 PM, we checked into our room at the Banaue Hotel (large, charm-free, but with a beautiful view of the rice terraces).
Day 3:
With the help of a local guide, we took a jeepney to Batad. And then—wow! The rice terraces form an amphitheater overlooking the small village. Under the sun, it’s simply spectacular and breathtaking! Even though we’re familiar with rice terraces (Sapa, Bali, Thailand, etc.), we were dazzled by so much beauty. We spent the day walking along the terrace walls. This place is timeless and fully deserves its UNESCO World Heritage status. However, we returned to the hotel exhausted (due to our ages and lack of exercise). We had dinner with our driver at the Las Vegas restaurant in the center of Banaue. The meal was decent, cheap, and the Filipino owner played the guitar to accompany our dinner.
Day 4:
Today, our driver took us to Sagada. The mountain road offered spectacular landscapes (about 1.5 to 2 hours). Along the way, we stopped in Bontoc to visit the small but interesting anthropological museum. It features old photos and various objects from the Ifugao tribes, as well as a reconstruction of primitive dwellings.
We then went on a short hike in Sagada with a very friendly local guide who explained the region’s funeral rites. The walk started at the communal cemetery before reaching “Echo Valley,” where we saw the first coffins hanging on the cliff. We continued to the “Underground River” and a small waterfall, ending our journey in the “Lumiang Cave” burial cave. All in all, this day was very interesting. On the way back, we made a few photo stops.
In the evening, on our driver’s recommendation, we ate at the “Bistro,” a French enclave in the center of Banaue (good pizza, roasted quail, homemade fries).
Day 5:
Today was a transfer day. To limit fatigue and nights in Manila, our tour operator arranged a flight from Clark to Tagbilaran (Bohol), saving us 2 to 3 hours of driving. But to catch our flight, we had to leave very early: 5:30 AM. Our kind driver dropped us off on time at the airport. To use it, we had to pay a 150 PHP tax per person. The Philippine Airlines flight (15 minutes) left early and was far from full. Upon arrival, we were taken to the Loboc River Hotel, on the banks of the river of the same name. A very charming lodge lost in a tropical garden. We stayed in a stilt cottage overlooking the river. We relaxed a bit in the lovely pool. This place is really great—the staff is charming, and the food is excellent for a reasonable price.
Day 6:
This day was dedicated to exploring Bohol. The program was classic, starting with the tarsier sanctuary. We saw a few specimens in a small garden, each pointed out by a staff member. It was both good and disappointing because the animals were in pseudo-freedom in a small enclosure. Then we went to the “Chocolate Hills” and climbed 240 steps to admire the panoramic view of the hills—but by 10 AM, it was crowded. On the way back, we stopped at the butterfly garden, which was uninteresting: tiny, with few butterflies. We consoled ourselves by photographing beautiful flowers. To please our teen, we stopped at the Loboc Eco Tourism Adventure Park and crossed the river lying down, suspended from a steel cable (300 PHP). Finally, we had the traditional lunch-cruise on the Loboc River. It was a factory-like experience, and the meal was unremarkable. The only good thing was the singer on each boat and the lush vegetation. Afterward, we visited colonial churches and the cathedral, remnants of the Spanish presence, before returning to the hotel for a well-deserved dip in the pool. Note that for those interested, there’s an arena near the hotel where cockfights are held every Sunday—something Filipinos are passionate (if not obsessed) about.
Day 8:
Very early departure for the port. We boarded a *banca* in search of dolphins. After about an hour of sailing, we were lucky enough to spot around a hundred dolphins. Our boat then headed to the small and charming island of Pamilacan. After a walk through the little village, we came across locals traditionally building a boat. They told us it takes about a month to finish their outrigger boat. Then we had to choose our snorkeling spot between the coral garden, the fish park, and the turtle enclosure. Note that a fee is charged for each spot: 150 PHP per place and per person. It felt a bit like we were being ripped off, especially since the spots weren’t amazing—we’d see much better on Apo for much less. We had lunch on the island at one of the many small eateries (350 PHP per person).
Days 9 and 10:
On our return, we were taken to the Bohol Sea Resort on Panglao Island, where we stayed for 2 nights. It’s a small, recent establishment in a quiet corner of the island. It’s relaxing—maybe a bit too much. It has a nice pool and access to Danao Beach, but the view is blocked by a flotilla of boats. We didn’t try their diving school. The meals were good. If we had to do it again, we’d skip this stop to spend more time in Negros.
Days 11 and 12:
We took a fast ferry (Ocean Jet) from Tagbilaran port to Dumaguete and were taken to the Thalatta Resort, about 20 km away near Zamboanguita. We stayed there for 2 nights. Let’s just say it was our favorite. It’s a small place facing Apo Island. The rooms are simple, and the pool, nestled in a magnificent tropical garden, is fantastic. The staff is friendly, and the meals are very good. The hotel has its own diving center (snorkeling gear provided) and its own boats. We booked the Apo Island excursion: 1,350 PHP per person, including lunch. It was incredible: magnificent corals, colorful fish, and turtles of all sizes. The crew was endlessly kind and didn’t hesitate to dive to guide us to the best spots. In short, a perfect day. This site is ranked among the top 5 diving spots in the Philippines.
Since we were lucky enough to be there on a Wednesday morning, we explored the surprising Malapay Market, a 10-minute walk from our hotel. You’ll find numerous stalls selling vegetables, fruits, live or dried fish, and handicrafts. Enclosures are set up for selling livestock (calves, zebu, pigs). There are also restaurants. We were lucky to see two pigs roasted traditionally on a spit. There are few Europeans, and the people are warm. A great moment.
We left this beautiful place with regret because we didn’t have time to visit the island or go swimming with whale sharks.
Days 12 to 15:
From Dumaguete port, we took a short crossing (1 hour with Ocean Jet) to Siquijor Island to reach the Coco Grove Beach Resort. A beautiful hotel nestled in a spacious tropical garden. Several restaurants and bars, 4 pools. Despite the size of the place, it remains intimate. You can snorkel (corals and fish) right in front of the beautiful beach. We stayed in a very pleasant duplex suite. For those interested, there’s a spa and a diving center. You can also take the Apo Island excursion (offered at 1,950 PHP).
We spent our days relaxing between the pool and the beach. In the evening, the sunsets over Negros and Apo were stunning.
We booked an island tour with a comfortable tricycle from the hotel (1,500 PHP). The circuit was classic and allowed us to go around the island. We discovered beaches, the famous 400-year-old ficus tree with its enormous roots, and its equally famous foot bath with its cleaning fish. Then we visited the St. Isidore Convent before heading to the Cambugahay waterfalls and their four pools. The setting is idyllic, and the water is surprisingly good—we had a lot of fun swimming. We had dinner at a restaurant overlooking the island, where you can see Apo, Cebu, and Negros. In the end, Siquijor turned out to be a real little tropical paradise.
Since the hotel restaurants were expensive, we dined at nearby establishments: Fuego (clean, good—excellent raw fish—and quiet), Chekesch (louder), and the very pleasant Baha Bar, which brews its own beer and offers more refined cuisine.
Days 15 to 16:
We left at dawn to return to Dumaguete and its airport by ferry. We had breakfast at the Coco Grande Hotel, an annex of the previous one. The Philippine Airlines flight went smoothly. A driver took us to the town of Taal. We stayed at Paradores Del Castillo, right in the heart of the old town. It’s a charming old house with only 6 rooms. The various rooms are decorated with antiques—a real little museum. The garden is pleasant and opens onto the town.
It’s an old early 19th-century house converted into a hotel, beautifully arranged with 6 rooms in the heart of the city. The restaurant in the garden is very pleasant and offers a panoramic view.
We visited an old Spanish house before heading to the beautiful Basilica of St. Martin of Tours, one of the most beautiful religious buildings in the Philippines. A mass was in progress, allowing us to gauge the Filipinos’ fervor before we could visit. When we left, it was dark, and we could admire the illuminated building. We ended our evening by exploring the night market with its many fruit and skewer stalls. A nice surprise.
In the morning, we were taken to the shores of Taal Lake, an ancient caldera where a second volcano has formed in the middle of the lake, which in turn contains another lake. We boarded a *banca* to reach the island in the middle of the lake. This was followed by an uphill walk, made difficult by the high temperature (36°C) and the dust on the path. The dust was worsened by the many horses carrying (or bringing back) the less courageous. To illustrate the difficulty of the climb, the trail is marked by the Stations of the Cross and its 14 stations. We were panting while our guide trotted far ahead. Our effort was rewarded when we reached the summit and its viewpoints over the inner lake and the surroundings. The wisps of smoke seen here and there confirmed we were on an active volcano. Inside the lake, there are supposedly 45 small volcanoes, one of which emerged during its last eruption in 1911.
On the way back, we had lunch by the lake before returning to Manila and the Bayleaf Hotel, whose main merit is its location in the Intramuros district. In the late afternoon, we walked along the walls of the old city.
We had dinner on the hotel’s panoramic terrace overlooking the city and the bay.
Day 17:
Last day! Our tour operator joined us for a tour of the Intramuros district. He enriched the visit with comments on the history, geopolitics, and economy of the Philippines. We visited the Manila Cathedral, destroyed 7 times in the past (6 earthquakes and the 1945 bombing). It’s beautiful, and its stained glass is magnificent. We couldn’t enter the San Agustin Church, the oldest Catholic building in Manila. We passed by the memorial to the Battle of Manila, which claimed over 100,000 lives. We visited the area around Casa Manila, which was closed on Monday, and had a drink at Barbara’s cabaret, located in a historic house. A very enriching morning.
Then we went to the Mall of Asia, the world’s largest shopping mall, to buy some souvenirs (Kultura store) before being taken to the airport. We exchanged our last pesos at the buying rate right after check-in.
The return flight went smoothly. We regretted not being able to use the facilities of Istanbul’s new airport, as its opening was delayed by another month.
Finances:
In the end, we spent 1,640 € for the international flights, 4,200 € for the stay (hotels, visits, various transports) with the agency (whose professionalism we can only praise), and about 700 € for meals, tips, and souvenirs.
Summary:
Luckily, we had beautiful weather throughout our stay, with temperatures between 26 and 35°C. Discovering the Philippines was a wonderful experience. The diversity of the landscapes, the kindness of the Filipinos, the cleanliness, and the truly delicious fruits (especially pineapples and mangoes). We were never harassed, unlike in many touristy countries. On the other hand, the food, though generally cheap, wasn’t exceptional.
Since this country is so vast, we might return in the near future.
Though I’m not a specialist on this destination, I’m happy to answer your questions based on my experience.
So, my flight tickets have just been booked for a trip to Cambodia from November 4th to 27th, 2025.
I’ll be traveling solo and want to explore this amazing country while getting a bit off the beaten path.
I’m arriving in Phnom Penh and also departing from Phnom Penh.
My goal is to travel as much as possible by bus and scooter.
What itinerary would you recommend?
What are the must-do things?
I’m open to all tips and info.
Thanks in advance for your help and responses.
