Western Europe · Italy

Planning a trip to Italy in October. I’d love to hear about your experiences. Thanks!

Hi there, We’d love to spend a week in the Cinque Terre in early April for some hiking, but I’m wondering if it’s crowded at that time of year?

Hi there, I’m wondering about spending a week in Basilicata in southern Italy in mid-to-late March. Initially, I was talking about Puglia, but I realize that in my imagination it was actually Puglia—but no, it’s really the timeless charm of Basilicata that I want to discover.

We’d be leaving from Nice. Do any of you have any tips? People who’ve been there recently—how about transport? Accommodations? A possible itinerary? Maybe fly into Naples and rent a car? Thanks for your feedback!

Have a great day,

Barbara

Video - Famous for Napoleon’s first exile, you don’t need to pay tribute to him to discover this "Miniature Corsica." Elba Island

Hi there! I’d love to know the best route from Carpentras to Levanto and then continue on to Rome.

Hi everyone,

Since I had a fantastic week in Puglia, and it's such a nearby and easily accessible destination from France,

I invite you to check out the article I wrote about it on my blog: www.philippebasset.com/puglia.html

I highly recommend visiting this coastal region along the Adriatic Sea for so many reasons: diverse landscapes, refined and varied cuisine, a very pleasant climate, a discreet and welcoming population, no mafia (it’s sad to say, but many Italian cities are plagued by this scourge, which brings insecurity, filth, and extortion...), and apart from July-August, there’s no risk of mass tourism!

*Dolce vita* guaranteed!

I’m happy to help if you’d like tips or recommendations :)

And plenty more photos to discover—hopefully, it’ll make you want to book a flight to Bari!

Hi there,

I’m planning a trip to Sicily, and we’ll be renting a car at Palermo Airport. For our first stop, we’d like to visit Palermo itself. I’m really struggling to find a parking spot outside the ZTL (since we don’t know what type of vehicle we’ll have) and that’s not too far to walk from the city center.

It’d also be great if the parking were monitored, since we’ll have all our luggage in the car for this first leg of the trip.

I hope I’m not asking for the impossible! If any of you have some great tips to share, I’d love to hear them.

Thanks for taking the time to read my message—it really means a lot!

Looking forward to your replies,

Alain

The title might surprise you, but you’ll understand my point of view.

1/ MEAL STRUCTURE I’m talking about the standard meal, not the one for those who have to budget for financial reasons (generally fewer in northern and central Italy than in France, but more in the south, which makes up 35% of Italy—Eurostat figures), nor for those (mostly women) watching their figure.

The tradition (once the meal of the well-off, widespread among the general population in the 1950s) starts with soup or pasta (or rice, gnocchi, ravioli, lasagna)—this is the *primo piatto*.

Next comes meat or another animal-based product (fish, cured meats, eggs, etc.)—the *secondo piatto*, which can be replaced by cooked vegetables (the only known example in France: eggplant parmesan).

If the meat dish doesn’t already include vegetables, one is served. Salads, whether green or tomato-based, are side dishes, not starters.

The meal ends with dessert—no difference from French habits: cheese, fruit, or sweets.

*Antipasti* (appetizers) are reserved for festive meals or receptions and are served *in addition* to the main courses at the start.

4 practices unknown in France: - If the menu includes pasta and ham, you start with the pasta. - If the menu includes pasta with a meat sauce and fish, you start with the pasta too. - Pasta is never a side dish for meat. - It’s not unusual for Italians to start with pasta in a meat sauce and then have a meat dish—most do this several times a week.

Modern adaptations: - People eat pasta less often (on average 5 times a week, according to recent figures) and soups, which are being replaced by *antipasti*. - The main meal is now mostly dinner, so it’s much heartier, while lunch isn’t usually eaten at home.

2/ THE CUISINE What do we know in France? Pizza, pasta Bolognese, carbonara, arrabbiata, ravioli, and lasagna. Fried scampi, Milanese or Bolognese cutlets, carpaccio, and finally tiramisu.

In short, a few basic dishes, but nothing of the gastronomy—whether regional traditions or high-end restaurants.

2 anecdotes: **Bolognese sauce** In Italy, the most common homemade sauce is a meat-and-tomato-based sauce called *ragù* (pronounced *ragoo*). Every region, even every town and family, as well as every restaurant, has its own recipe. *Ragù alla bolognese* is just one of these countless *ragù*—and no one in France knows the real recipe (I can share it with those interested). The name *bolognese* given abroad to any *ragù* comes from a canned sauce manufacturer who once branded their product that way. Until the early 1960s, it was called *sauce à la viande* (meat sauce).

**Pizza** Before World War II, it was practically unknown north of Rome. Today, Italy is one of the countries where it’s eaten the least (twice as much in France, four times as much in Germany).

Hi everyone,

The last time we saw the Dolomites—briefly—was back in 1982. Obviously, things have changed dramatically since then, as few Italian tourist spots are spared from crowds these days.

So, I have two questions:

1) When? Which period offers relatively good weather and moderate crowds? I was thinking October, but are the cable cars still running then? And what about accommodations?

2) Where? Which "must-see" spots should we skip? On the other hand, which places should we prioritize?

We’d like to do a few hikes—moderate in terms of time, distance, and elevation gain.

Thanks for your tips!

Hi. I’m going on a cruise in May and have an excursion to Cinque Terre. I’d like to do it on my own by taking the train after getting off the ship. Can anyone tell me how it works, and especially if it’s doable with the ship’s schedule? Thanks for your help!

Between COVID waves, our Plan B took us to Venice from Trento. Quite the journey, indeed.

Hardly anyone in the City of Doges. The photos even won me a People's Choice Award at an exhibition in 2023.

And La Fenice... What beauty.

As planned every year for quite some time now, here we are in Italy on the Ligurian Coast to spend a few days and celebrate New Year's 2024/2025.

Our base is in the charming town of Rapallo, between Genoa and La Spezia. We're right on the coast, with our hotel offering a sea view and access to the beach.

Not far from Rapallo, you can find, besides the Cinque Terre, Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, Chiavari, and others like Carrara and even Pisa. In short, there's plenty to do.

Five days there with so-so weather, and crowds but nothing overwhelming.

For the trip between home and our base, we're using an electric vehicle. It's manageable without any issues. The hotel has outlets, and otherwise, there are charging points all over Italy. And just to note, Tesla chargers are the best in terms of cost and charging speed.

There you have it.

Once we arrived on Sunday, December 29th, it was time to go for a walk, book a restaurant for Monday evening, and finalize the itinerary.

On Monday the 30th, we were lucky enough to see a beautiful sunrise from our window.











And the town of Rapallo in the early morning!

Hi there, I’m heading to Florence soon, and since I want to visit as many museums as possible, I’m thinking of getting the Firenzecard (or Firenze Card). From what I’ve gathered online (and feel free to correct me if I’m wrong), with this card, you need to call a phone number to book a specific time slot for the Uffizi Gallery (+39 055 294883). Unfortunately, when I try calling this number from my mobile, I get a message saying the number “is no longer in service.” Has anyone else run into this? Could it be an issue with my phone plan, or has the number changed? Thanks in advance for your help. w.

Hi there,

A little travel journal of our few days in Tuscany in August 2024 with our three daughters aged 16 months, 4, and 6. A beautiful trip but ruined by extreme heat. The same thing in spring or autumn would have been magical.

Itinerary We used our own car for this mini-trip.

Carpentras-Isolalunga: 1 night

Isolalunga-Barberino (Val d’Elsa): 4 nights

Lucca and Pisa

Siena

Val d’Orcia

Volterra

Barberino-Carpentras

Visits

Lucca is less well-known than its neighbors Florence, Pisa, and Siena. Yet it was already a prosperous city during the Renaissance. The Duomo is magnificent, and strolling along the ramparts in the shade of the trees is very pleasant. The large square, where the buildings were constructed using the walls of the amphitheater, is a curiosity. We used the stroller.

Pisa needs no introduction, but it’s also impossible to pass by without stopping. Alexandre and I had already visited it 15 years ago, so this time we didn’t climb the tower or go inside the Duomo. We arrived around 5 PM, so we were short on time, but the heat had dropped, which made the visit very enjoyable.

Siena is a magnificent city but dry. There’s no watercourse here, which has always been the city’s problem. Everything was designed, including the slope of the main square to collect water. The Duomo is absolutely stunning. We bought the pass to visit the Duomo, the baptistery, the crypt, the museum of the works, the panorama, and the “Gate of Heaven.”

The “Gate of Heaven” is a guided tour that allows you to climb to the top of the Duomo, walk under the roof to see the framework, and admire the beautiful frescoes on the floor from above, as well as the stained glass and ceiling paintings from much closer. Of course, the view of Siena from up there is splendid. It’s really worth it. We left the stroller downstairs, and Alex carried Artemisia.

The museum of the works contains some magnificent paintings and original sculptures from the Duomo.

We didn’t find a park for a picnic. We had to settle for a public garden that wasn’t really well-maintained.

Our visit for the “Gate of Heaven” was at 6:30 PM, so we had dinner in Siena. The restaurant was expensive and disappointing. However, we enjoyed the city’s parade—lots of people in costume, plenty of colors, and brass band music. Nice.

Val d’Orcia

The first goal was to see the famous “Gladiator” house, which was used as a set in Ridley Scott’s film. You’ll have to settle for a photo because it’s not open for visits. The place is pretty, but no more so than many Tuscan estates, so I’d say it’s not worth the detour.

We visited the lovely village of San Quirico d’Orcia, where we had a picnic. In the afternoon, we saw the beautiful Abbey of San Galgano and the Chapel of San Lorenzo, where a sword is planted in the stone (its owner stopped waging war to dedicate his life to God—no apparent connection to the legend of King Arthur). The abbey is in ruins, but the site, planted with cypress trees and sunflower fields, is very beautiful.

Volterra

Volterra is a hilltop village with many facets, aside from a still-active penitentiary in the old fortification.

We bought the “Volterra Card” to visit, in particular, the Palazzo dei Priori, which is as beautiful inside as it is outside, and to climb to the top of the tower, where the view is magnificent.

The Roman ruins (especially the amphitheater and arenas under excavation)

The alabaster museum is very small but highlights one of the region’s ongoing activities.

The Etruscan art museum is a must-see. It’s a high-quality museum with many pieces, mainly richly decorated tombs depicting the lives of the deceased. And it’s air-conditioned!

It’s a bit of a hassle with the stroller. A baby carrier would have been more practical.

We had a picnic in the lovely Enrico Fiumi Park (with playgrounds for kids), which overlooks the city.

There are many charming shops in Volterra for bringing back souvenirs, especially food-related ones.

I find that hotels are very expensive in Italy, so I opted for a farmhouse rental.

We picnicked at lunchtime and ate at restaurants or in our accommodation in the evening. Unfortunately, I can’t recommend any great restaurants.

Budget

Accommodation: 120 € per night

Volterra family card: 20 €

Hi! I’m an amateur photographer and I dream of photographing the Venice Carnival. I’m not really much of a partygoer, so I’m wondering how I’d feel at this event—I’m afraid I might feel a bit like an intruder... I know I’m overthinking it since hundreds of photographers go there. How did you feel about it? Thanks!

Quick recap of a getaway to Sicily (June 3–13, 2022).

Day 1: Transavia flight to Palermo from Lyon Day 2: Zingaro Reserve (14 km coastal trail round-trip, about 4 hours of hiking + coves) / Evening in Scopello Day 3: Segesta + Erice via cable car + evening in Trapani (free parking at Piazza Vit. Emmanuele) Day 3: Bike day in Favignana (Cala Rosa, Cala Azzurra) Day 4: Marsala (quick stop at the salt flats), Selinunte, and sleepover in Agrigento Day 5: Day in Agrigento: Valley of the Temples, Temple of Concordia, Temple of Hercules, Temple of Juno, Temple of Castor and Pollux Day 6: Villa Romana del Casale and Cefalù in the late afternoon Day 7: Relaxing beach day in Cefalù Day 8: Mosaics in Monreale Cathedral, then Palermo Day 9: Palermo Day 10: Return to Lyon

8 days on the ground covering 650 km, scorching heat all week (37°C in Zingaro), and a ridiculously expensive car rental (Sicily by Car).

Some truly great accommodations:

- Tre Giummare in Scopello (despite the AC breaking down the night before) - Laurus Apartments in Trapani (perfect for the Favignana ferry) - Terrazze di Montelusa in Agrigento (worth seeing—very unique!) - Rurale, Via Lancenia 22 in Cefalù (for the pool view!) - Il Giardino di Ballarò in Palermo (charming and right in the heart of the city)

Our top picks:

- Favignana (by far the highlight of the trip) - The temples in Agrigento - Palermo - The food here is amazing

No real disappointments, but Erice didn’t quite live up to expectations, and we were frustrated by the car rental prices.

Side note: make sure to specify that your card is a *credit* card (not debit). Ours was a deferred debit card, and our bank had the sense to label it "credit card"—otherwise, you’d be on the hook for an extra 200 €... those Southern Italians!

Hike in Zingaro:







Segesta:

I'd love to know if any of you travelers have been to Mazara del Vallo in Sicily. Is there a bus station that serves the main cities? Where can I find information and schedules? Is there a train station that serves the main cities? Where can I find the information and schedules? Thanks for your tips!

Hi there, We have the option to go to Venice from December 31st to January 4th or 5th. But is it a good idea?

Hi! I’m looking for tips on how to travel by train from Copenhagen to Florence. The route from Copenhagen to Switzerland is pretty clear to me, but the part between Switzerland and my final destination in Italy is much less so... Thanks in advance if you’ve got any great tips to share! Nicolas

Hi there,

A year ago, I posted looking for a cycling route for a trip in Sicily with my partner and our two kids (3 and 4 years old) in a trailer—something calm, with nature and a bit of culture. I didn’t get many replies, so I’m sharing our itinerary, which we really enjoyed. We cycled from the southeast (Syracuse) to the northwest (Palermo).

**Note:** We had no issues on the road—drivers were very courteous, the welcome was exceptional (lots of invitations to eat and/or stay overnight), and there were very few people on the roads, even the big ones, since we were there from September 23 to October 7.

**Weather:** Apparently, the summer of 2014 had been awful (only 25°C...). We, on the other hand, had 3 days at 44°C—it was *brutal*, including one day at 35°C at 1,000m altitude in the center of the island on October 1st...

**Accommodation:** 15 days of wild camping, with just one really nice apartment after 7 days in Piazza Armerina. Wild camping was tough—rocky, dusty, hard to pitch tent stakes. Our tent got pierced by thorns (even the groundsheet) from one side to the other. We washed up at village fountains, and—let’s be honest—less often than we’d have liked. The kids’ clothes, which spent a lot of time on the ground, were pretty grimy since laundry was rare. Only one official campsite (otherwise, they’re all on the beaches): Da Vinci Camping, in the middle of lemon groves near the southeast (Rosolini). It’s well-known on social media for being very "roots."

**Water:** A real challenge—*very* tough. Off-season, many homes are abandoned, and on some days, we passed through few villages. Result: we always carried our max water (9L) and sometimes had to add extra bottles to last 2 days, covering the day’s ride, wild camping, and the next morning—that’s 15L on the bikes. So be careful with this!

**Itinerary**

We arrived by train in Messina from southern Italy (yes, the train goes onto the ferry—worth seeing!), then took the train to Syracuse. We decided the northeast coast was too dangerous to cycle, so we visited Syracuse and then picked the SP roads (the smallest ones, more or less following the coast) toward Noto. We were supposed to head southeast to Pachino, but since our ferry from Palermo was booked 15 days later, we cut the route short and headed toward Rosolini instead. Nothing exceptional until Modica, crossing the Ispica fault. Modica is a really pretty town to see. Then Ragusa’s old town via the SS 115—a quiet but very scenic road. The town is stunning, but getting through the modern part (Ragusa Alta) means 300–400m of elevation gain... Caltagirone: a lovely town (famous for ceramics), but the center is uphill. We took a bigger road, but there was hardly anyone around. Left via Mirabella, then visited Piazza Armerina and the Villa Romana. Took the SP 15 to Barrafranca, Pietraperzia, then Caltanissetta via the SP96 (choose carefully—there’s a bigger road nearby).

Then Serradifalco, Mussomeli (castle), San Giovanni Gemini—a series of hilltop villages with valleys in between. We climbed and descended 500m+ repeatedly. Santo Stefano Quisquina, Prizzi (passing at 1,000m altitude—really nice, no one around). Corleone (great road, some climbing, but it’s awesome); Ficuzza, Santa Cristina Gela, Altofonte, and Palermo (no traffic issues).

**Reminder:** This was off-season—no one on the roads. We found the route through Caltanissetta, Mussomeli, etc., *spectacular* and sometimes breathtaking. Sicily is a rugged place for rugged people (especially wild camping). We’d heard the center of Sicily was overrated (not at all...). After 4 months of traveling without always listening to others’ opinions, we confirm: central Sicily is amazing—rugged, dramatic, and perfect for what we were looking for (though we didn’t swim).

**Elevation:** People kept saying Sicily was a nightmare for climbing. We’ve done much tougher routes in the Black Forest or Slovenia. The tricky part in central Sicily is the constant ups and downs—you climb 300–600m in one go, then descend right after. We used "Ride with GPS" to test different routes and avoid unnecessary descents (or minimize them). With a few extra kilometers, we saved about 2,000m of elevation gain overall, especially around Caltanissetta, the Modica-Ragusa link, arriving in Modica, and leaving Ragusa.

Hope this helps someone...

Hi there, I’ve been wanting to explore Sicily for a long time. From an all-inclusive hotel so I don’t have to change accommodation every night, and getting around by rental car. About ten days. Which spot would be best to stay so I can explore without excessive driving? What are the must-see sites, knowing that Mount Etna is already my top pick? What are the key things to know about renting and driving a car (laws, speed limits, requirements in certain cities, parking, etc.)?

Hi everyone! So nice to be back on our forum!

We’re thinking of taking a little trip to Sicily next month with our camper van. We’d leave from our place in Auvergne, then take a ferry from Genoa to Palermo, and on the way back, we’d follow the Tyrrhenian coast up to Naples. After that, we’d head straight back to Auvergne. We’ve never been to Sicily, Naples, or Pompeii before. Since we couldn’t plan this trip earlier in the year, we’re a bit worried about the weather—especially the temperature and rainfall in Sicily. I know the climate’s getting warmer, but still... Thanks for shedding some light on this for us! Junolu

Hi everyone, so happy VoyageForum is back up and running! I’m planning to explore Sardinia at the end of April and in May 2025. Could anyone tell me what the must-see spots are for this destination? I know there are tons of stunning beaches and, like everyone, I’m drawn to them. But I’m actually more interested in visits (towns, remarkable sites, curiosities) than the usual touristy spots. Looking forward to your enlightened tips!

Hey everyone!

Nothing in this section since 2020? Well, I’ll jump in. With Italy—completely random, of course .

Have you heard of Alessandro Mannarino? He’s something else compared to Toto Cotugno or Eros Ramazzotti...

A young-ish guy (45 years old), handsome like a bad boy , who started his musical journey on the streets of Rome, sleeping in squats with people from all walks of life, before being discovered by a journalist and recording 5 albums.

His music is super *orrechiabile* (how do you say that in French?... easy to listen to...?) with diverse influences. And his lyrics—simple but powerful.

A few examples from his different albums:

Svegliatevi italiani

Translation, not bad.

Maddalena

Translation, very rough, but it gives you an idea. PS for Masterpo if you’re reading this: an answer to *Noli me tangere*! Mado had other things to do. Something human, wonderfully human.

Arca di Noè

No translation available for this song, which sings of a lost Noah’s Ark world adrift. So, uh, the chorus? Let’s go, let’s go. But where are we going? Who knows? Who knows? I’m not afraid. This life is all I have, and the shorter it is, the louder I’ll sing: Eu quero viver como um beija-flor

Agua

No translation for this one either. Just two lines: At night, you can search in an embrace for something that doesn’t taste like rage.

Hope this inspires some of you to listen more, in the winter light.

Puglia, with its charming white villages, Bari—still relatively undiscovered—and Lecce, an architectural gem, has become very popular with tourists. After discovering it in 2018, I wanted to go back.

Instead of taking a low-cost flight, I chose to travel by train. It was 26 hours of pure pleasure in every way, which I share in an article on my blog.

https://travels-of-a-life.com/les-pouilles-en-train-depuis-paris/

Important: my blog isn’t sponsored. It’s strictly personal and aims to help fellow travelers.

Hi everyone,

Le Marche? Where’s that?

That’s what we hear more than 9 times out of 10... This region is actually little-known, or at least only its Adriatic coastline, just below Rimini, rings a bell.

Yet it’s a beautiful region, bordered to the east by the Adriatic Sea and to the west by the Apennine Mountains, with thousands of hills in between—many topped with charming little villages. A very rural area, quite affordable, starting to showcase its heritage, and not yet overrun by tourists... so what are you waiting for?



The distances look short, but the roads are long: aside from the fairly fast routes running from the hinterland down to the coast, following the paths of small rivers that rise in the Apennines and flow into the Adriatic, all the other roads—especially the cross-country ones—wind and twist. They reveal stunning landscapes at every turn but also force you to adjust your sense of time. We stayed in two different spots, each about 30 or 40 km from the coast—first in the north of Le Marche, near Fossombrone, at Isola di Fano, and then in the south, at Montalto delle Marche.

Since this region is still a bit "under the radar," I had some trouble finding information while planning the trip... So this travel journal aims to introduce you to the region through photos and share a few tips along the way.

First up, some views of the landscapes!







More to come in the next post!