Cycling in Sicily: itinerary
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Cycling in Sicily: itinerary

by Nuss

in Topics › Bicycle travel

Translated into English.

Original post
NU
Nuss
RegularAmiens, Dijon · 208 posts
Hi there,

A year ago, I posted looking for a cycling route for a trip in Sicily with my partner and our two kids (3 and 4 years old) in a trailer—something calm, with nature and a bit of culture. I didn’t get many replies, so I’m sharing our itinerary, which we really enjoyed. We cycled from the southeast (Syracuse) to the northwest (Palermo).

**Note:** We had no issues on the road—drivers were very courteous, the welcome was exceptional (lots of invitations to eat and/or stay overnight), and there were very few people on the roads, even the big ones, since we were there from September 23 to October 7.

**Weather:** Apparently, the summer of 2014 had been awful (only 25°C...). We, on the other hand, had 3 days at 44°C—it was *brutal*, including one day at 35°C at 1,000m altitude in the center of the island on October 1st...

**Accommodation:** 15 days of wild camping, with just one really nice apartment after 7 days in Piazza Armerina. Wild camping was tough—rocky, dusty, hard to pitch tent stakes. Our tent got pierced by thorns (even the groundsheet) from one side to the other. We washed up at village fountains, and—let’s be honest—less often than we’d have liked. The kids’ clothes, which spent a lot of time on the ground, were pretty grimy since laundry was rare. Only one official campsite (otherwise, they’re all on the beaches): Da Vinci Camping, in the middle of lemon groves near the southeast (Rosolini). It’s well-known on social media for being very "roots."

**Water:** A real challenge—*very* tough. Off-season, many homes are abandoned, and on some days, we passed through few villages. Result: we always carried our max water (9L) and sometimes had to add extra bottles to last 2 days, covering the day’s ride, wild camping, and the next morning—that’s 15L on the bikes. So be careful with this!

**Itinerary**

We arrived by train in Messina from southern Italy (yes, the train goes onto the ferry—worth seeing!), then took the train to Syracuse. We decided the northeast coast was too dangerous to cycle, so we visited Syracuse and then picked the SP roads (the smallest ones, more or less following the coast) toward Noto. We were supposed to head southeast to Pachino, but since our ferry from Palermo was booked 15 days later, we cut the route short and headed toward Rosolini instead. Nothing exceptional until Modica, crossing the Ispica fault. Modica is a really pretty town to see. Then Ragusa’s old town via the SS 115—a quiet but very scenic road. The town is stunning, but getting through the modern part (Ragusa Alta) means 300–400m of elevation gain... Caltagirone: a lovely town (famous for ceramics), but the center is uphill. We took a bigger road, but there was hardly anyone around. Left via Mirabella, then visited Piazza Armerina and the Villa Romana. Took the SP 15 to Barrafranca, Pietraperzia, then Caltanissetta via the SP96 (choose carefully—there’s a bigger road nearby).

Then Serradifalco, Mussomeli (castle), San Giovanni Gemini—a series of hilltop villages with valleys in between. We climbed and descended 500m+ repeatedly. Santo Stefano Quisquina, Prizzi (passing at 1,000m altitude—really nice, no one around). Corleone (great road, some climbing, but it’s awesome); Ficuzza, Santa Cristina Gela, Altofonte, and Palermo (no traffic issues).

**Reminder:** This was off-season—no one on the roads. We found the route through Caltanissetta, Mussomeli, etc., *spectacular* and sometimes breathtaking. Sicily is a rugged place for rugged people (especially wild camping). We’d heard the center of Sicily was overrated (not at all...). After 4 months of traveling without always listening to others’ opinions, we confirm: central Sicily is amazing—rugged, dramatic, and perfect for what we were looking for (though we didn’t swim).

**Elevation:** People kept saying Sicily was a nightmare for climbing. We’ve done much tougher routes in the Black Forest or Slovenia. The tricky part in central Sicily is the constant ups and downs—you climb 300–600m in one go, then descend right after. We used "Ride with GPS" to test different routes and avoid unnecessary descents (or minimize them). With a few extra kilometers, we saved about 2,000m of elevation gain overall, especially around Caltanissetta, the Modica-Ragusa link, arriving in Modica, and leaving Ragusa.

Hope this helps someone...
- Nuss le Pingouin -

Les forêts précèdent les hommes, les déserts les suivent
YE Yellowmop Veteran ·
Thanks Yannick for this write-up—it's as unique (on VF) as it is exciting and inspiring (even for someone like me who "hates" bikes).

Just as delightful and charming, your avatar (I loooove penguins!!)

Long live carefree travel!!!

Best,

Yell😉wmop.
MI Milocca ·
Nice recap, Nuss. I was on vacation in Sicily during your trip, and you passed within 20 km of where I was staying—yes, it was *very* hot. I’d like to add a few details since I know central Sicily well, cycling through it every summer. Hope this helps! In high season, the roads are also deserted, with little traffic. In spring—April and May—the countryside turns green and blooms, almost like in the mountains. It’s probably the best time to visit. In summer, central Sicily is a furnace, with little to no shade. When cycling, stick to mornings until 11 AM–12 PM and afternoons starting at 4 PM. Generally, the wind picks up around 2 PM but is absent in the morning. Note that in August, night falls around 7:30 PM (1 hour earlier than in France). Shops close between 1 PM and 4 PM, and *panifici* (bakeries) are closed on Sundays (except in big cities). During Scirocco episodes, the sky turns milky, the wind dies down (no natural AC), and temperatures soar. This can last up to 10 days. Normally, daytime temps in the center hover around 35 °C in the afternoon, with wind. Road conditions have worsened due to the climate—very dry summers, rainy winters—and the terrain. Lack of natural vegetation causes landslides and cracks in the roads, most of which go unrepaired. Be extra cautious, especially on descents. A quirk of Sicilian asphalt: it’s very compact and smooth but less grippy than French road surfaces. I learned this the hard way—ended up needing medical evacuation. So *occhio*, as Italian cyclists say! To wrap up, Nuss, your route from Caltanissetta to Palermo? I wouldn’t have done it better myself. And I totally agree with your take on the people who live on this incredible island.
AL Alsardéchois ·
Hi, After traveling around Sicily by bike for nearly 3 weeks in July 2016, here’s our take. We’re a couple in our thirties. After 2 months of travel, we arrived in Sicily from Naples via Stromboli (by the way, Stromboli, an active volcano, is absolutely incredible—don’t miss it if you’ve got a little time).

We took a boat from Stromboli to Milazzo (northeast), then a train to Palermo. Palermo is huge, with way too much traffic, so we only spent a day there (visiting the catacombs and the market). After that, we hit the coastal road toward Scopello to visit the Zingaro Reserve. It’s a stunning park, entry is 4 euros, but it’s totally worth it. The *cala* are little coves with turquoise water.

Next, we crossed the island from northwest to southeast, from Scopello to Pozzallo. It took us 6 nights, averaging 60 km per day, despite the heat and elevation. There are no campsites inland, so we either wild-camped or stayed with locals.

Water: I don’t quite agree with what was said earlier. We found water almost everywhere at village fountains—95% of the time it was drinkable and nice and cold! That said, in the southeast, it was a bit harder to find fountains.

Our route from Scopello to Pozzallo:

Day 1: Scopello-Alcamo-Camporeale-Borgo Schiro (you can take a really nice shortcut trail)-Corleone. Corleone isn’t anything special, except for its mythic name… First day was pretty relaxed, very green, especially through the vineyards.

Day 2: Corleone-Prizzi-Santo Stefano Quisquina-Cammarata Reserve. Big elevation gain that day. We slept at 1,000 m altitude at a pretty unique picnic area.

Day 3: Cammarata-San Giovanni Gemini-Mussomeli via SP25-San Cataldo. The climb to Mussomeli after descending from San Giovanni was particularly tough. We visited the Manfredonico Castle—really impressive, clinging to the rocks.

Day 4: San Cataldo-Caltanissetta (detour via the south)-Pietraperzia-Barrafranca-Piazza Armerina. Between Caltanissetta and Pietraperzia, we had to take a major national road with 300 m of descent, then 300 m of ascent to reach Pietraperzia… the heat was unbearable that day.

Day 5: Piazza Armerina-Mirabella Imbaccari-Caltagirone. In Piazza Armerina, we visited the Casa Museo del Contadino. It’s really original and free—showcasing the life of a 19th-century Sicilian farmer. Caltagirone was one of our favorite stops on this Sicilian journey. A charming town, known as the ceramics capital.

Day 6: Caltagirone-Gramichele-Vizzini-Monterosso Almo. Not too much elevation, except for the climb to Monterosso Almo, which is breathtaking.

Day 7: Monterosso Almo-Ragusa Ibla-Modica-Pozzallo. It’s all downhill to the sea.

After that, we headed back up to Messina to catch the ferry. The road to Syracuse is really awful, but it gets better after that. Syracuse is a must-see—the most beautiful city in Sicily.

We definitely drew inspiration from the original post for our route—thanks, nuss! The Sicilians are super friendly, always ready to help. It was *really* hot—we did the crossing in July… Scorching temperatures, but luckily there was always a bit of wind. We rode from 7 AM to 1 PM and then from 5 PM to 7 PM. The hardest part was finding a nice spot for the midday break. There weren’t many people on the road, but drivers were really careful around us.

Hope this helps other travelers! If you want photos, you can check out our blog at www.ensellemarcel.wordpress.com 🙂🙂

Cyclo touristes en couple. Tour d'EUrope en 2016, Route de la Soie en 2017, Afrique australe en 2018. Notre blog https://ensellemarcel.wordpress.com/
VI Villardstpan ·
Nice recap, Nuss. I was on vacation in Sicily during your trip and you passed within 20 km of my holiday spot—yes, it was scorching hot. I’d like to add a few details since I’m familiar with central Sicily, cycling through it every summer. Hope they’re helpful. In high season, the roads are also deserted, with little traffic. In spring—April and May—the countryside turns green and blooms, almost like in the mountains. It’s probably the best time to visit. In summer, central Sicily is an oven, with little to no shade. When cycling, stick to mornings until 11 AM–12 PM and afternoons starting at 4 PM. Generally, the wind picks up around 2 PM but is absent in the morning. Note that in August, night falls around 7:30 PM (one hour earlier than in France). Shops close between 1 PM and 4 PM, and bakeries (panificio) are closed on Sundays (except in big cities). During Scirocco episodes, the sky turns milky, the wind drops (no natural air conditioning), and temperatures soar. This can last up to 10 days. Normally, temperatures in the center reach 35°C (95°F) in the afternoon, with wind. Road conditions have worsened due to the climate—very dry summers and rainy winters—and the terrain. The lack of natural vegetation causes landslides and cracks in the roads, often left unrepaired. Be extra cautious, especially on descents. One quirk of Sicilian asphalt: it’s very compact and smooth but less grippy than French road surfaces. I had to be airlifted once, so *occhio* (watch out), as Italian cyclists say. In short, Nuss, your route from Caltanissetta to Palermo—I couldn’t have done better. And I totally agree with your take on the people who live on this incredible island.

Hello Marius, We’re a couple of active sixty-somethings from the French Alps, used to bike touring. We’re heading to Sicily in May for three full weeks of cycling. We’ve found the itinerary in this thread really helpful and plan to use it as inspiration, starting from Palermo where we’ll arrive by boat. Since you seem to know the island well from cycling it, do you have any suggestions or ideas for our route back from Syracuse to Palermo? Coastal or inland? Any tricky sections, train options, or must-see spots? Thanks so much for your help—we’re not quite sure where to go to get back to Palermo for our boat. Have a great day, Best regards, Corinne
MI Milocca ·
Hi Corinne, Congrats on your travel choice—Sicily will be at its most beautiful in May. First things first for getting around Sicily by bike. Avoid national roads as much as possible (e.g., SS189 between Agrigento and Palermo). The island is densely populated (even if concentrated in big cities), so traffic on the *Super Strade* can get heavy. Getting brushed by a 40-ton truck isn’t exactly fun (been there). That said, national roads serving smaller towns tend to have lighter traffic.

For the route from Syracuse to Palermo: You’ll face much less elevation if you stick close to the coast rather than heading inland or north through the Nebrodi and Madonie mountain ranges. 1- Prioritize secondary roads, even if the road conditions are sometimes questionable. 2- Sicily has little flat terrain—the landscape is brutal, and the wind is relentless. 700m elevation gain / 50 km. 3- Smaller towns are cheaper to stay in. 4- Opt for *agriturismi* (rural guesthouses) for accommodation—they offer great value. 5- Watch out for guard dogs and livestock.

These first four points will likely shape your route, I think.

Places to see in my very rural vacation area: Milena: Monte Conca Sutera: Monte San Paolino Mussomeli: Castello Manfredonico, via SP23 San Giovanni: Monte Cammarata. Access San Giovanni via SP24—less traffic and less steep. If you still have energy, take the road up to the Monte Cammarata antennas. The forest is beautiful, and the view of Etna is stunning, but it’s very steep. There’s a refuge halfway up. Between San Giovanni Gemini and Santo Stefano: Ermitage Santa Rosalia alla Quisquina, peaceful at 1,000m altitude.

By the coast: Agrigento: Valley of the Temples Porto Empedocle: Scala dei Turchi, a remarkable natural site. Siciliana Marina and Eraclea Minoa: beautiful beaches. Castello di Montechiaro, overlooking a stunning natural beach.

My favorite rides: Guaranteed change of scenery... no shade... no flat stretches... Milena - Montedoro - Seradifalco via SP24, SP23 Seradifalco - Mussomeli via SP38 and SP23 Mussomeli - Sutera via SP20—a gorgeous village clinging to a rocky outcrop. Sutera - Casteltermini via SP20 bis and SP22. Casteltermini - San Biaggio Platani via SP20 Mussomeli - San Giovanni Gemini via SP211, SP25, SP26, SP24. San Giovanni Gemini - Santo Stefano Quisquina via SP24 Santo Stefano Quisquina - Alessandria della Rocca SS18 Alessandria della Rocca - San Biaggio Platani SP19

Places to see around Palermo: Ficuzza: a lovely spot with a castle, mountains, and woods. Piana degli Albanesi: a beautiful lake, accessible via SP5, offering one of the best views of Palermo. Palermo: Monte Pellegrino, Santuario di Santa Rosalia. A great climb with a stunning view of the sea and city. Mondello: The lido and Capo Gallo nature reserve. Monreale: a must-see, though very touristy.

Reaching Palermo’s port: - From the east, hugging the coast from Santa Flavia via Porticello, Capo Zafferano, Aspra, Ficarazzi, then 10 km of high-traffic roads (but you’ll be on the sea side). - From the west, hugging the coast from Isola delle Femmine, Sferracavallo, Mondello, then either go around or climb Monte Pellegrino, AquaSanta, followed by 1 km of high-traffic roads. - From the interior via Piana degli Albanesi on SP5. - From the interior via Marineo, Villabate, then 10 km of high-traffic roads (but again, on the sea side).

Other must-see spots: Temple and theater of Segesta Temples of Selinunte Mount Etna Cefalù

Places I still want to explore: Taormina, Syracuse, the Baroque towns, Trapani, Marsala, and the Madonie and Nebrodi mountain ranges. Zingaro Nature Reserve, the Aeolian Islands...

Hope these notes help! It’s hard to pin down a route without knowing your priorities. Feel free to ask for more details.

Marius
VI Villardstpan ·
Wow, huge thanks Marius for such a quick and detailed reply. I’ve printed it all out to study it properly! We usually aim for no more than 50 km a day and 800 m of positive elevation gain—ideally not both at the same time! We’ve sometimes done more, but then we don’t have much time left to explore or meet people. I’m thinking of drawing inspiration from Alsardechois’s route in this discussion, starting from Palermo (since we’re arriving by boat) and heading toward Mussomeli, then maybe reaching the coast and continuing to Ragusa before descending toward Scicli, Marina di Modica, Capo Passero, Noto, and Syracuse. After that, we’d return via Modica and head back up to Palermo following Nuss’s itinerary. But I’m worried it might be a bit too much since we only have 20 days of cycling and sometimes take breaks. How do trains with bikes work in Sicily? I need to refine all this and, most importantly, check if I can find accommodations everywhere—even rustic ones. We won’t be taking a tent, but we’ll bring sleeping mats and sleeping bags just in case. I already have a good foundation; I’ll try to build an itinerary. We have good touring bikes—are the roads rideable everywhere? Thanks again, and have a great weekend! Corinne
MI Milocca ·
Hi Corinne, Thanks, I’ve got a bit more info to make some suggestions.

Sicily is a large island—the coastal loop alone is about 1,000 km, and some people actually complete it (there’s even a cycling certificate called *Sicilia no stop*). Along the coast, Palermo to Siracusa is roughly 500 km. The prevailing wind in Sicily comes from the northwest. So, you’ll have a headwind until Trapani, then a tailwind afterward. Inland is shorter—about 260 km via the highway—but by bike, see below. The idea of doing just a one-way trip by bike is smart. Trains in Sicily allow bikes in a spacious carriage, and since 2018, an agreement between Trenitalia and the region makes bike transport free. Checking Trenitalia’s site, https://oraritreniitalia.com/trenitalia-orari-palermo-siracusa you’ll see there’s only one train per day: Departure from Palermo at 17:33, arrival in Siracusa at 21:40. Departure from Siracusa at 6:20, arrival in Palermo at 10:30. I think you’re taking the ferry with Grandi Navi Veloci. If you’re departing from Genova, you’ll arrive in Palermo at 19:30, so you’ll need to spend the first night there.

Here’s a Palermo-Siracusa route via the interior, based on Google Maps. I know the first five stages—after that, I’ve connected the main sights.

1st Stage: 45 km, 800 m elevation gain from the port Palermo - SP76 Villabate - SP77 Misilmeri - SS118 Marineo - Ficuzza (682 m). https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ficuzza

2nd Stage: 55 km, 800 m elevation gain Ficuzza – SS118 Corleone – Lago di Prizzi – Lago Pian del Leone – Santo Stefano Quisquina (732 m). https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santo_Stefano_Quisquina

3rd Stage: 44 km, 1,000 m elevation gain Santo Stefano Quisquina – SP 24 San Giovanni Gemini - SP26 – SS189 – SP16 – Aquaviva Platani – Mussomeli – Castello Manfredonico (778 m). https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castello_di_Mussomeli

4th Stage: 48 km, 700 m elevation gain Mussomeli – SP23-SP38-SP37-SP48 - Lago Soprano - Serradifalco – SS122 San Cataldo – Caltanissetta (568 m). https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caltanissetta

5th Stage: 47 km, 500 m elevation gain Caltanissetta – SP1-SP96-SS640dir – Pietraperzia – SS191-SP42-SP15-SP 90 – Villa Romana del Casale (579 m). https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villa_romana_del_Casale

6th Stage: 35 km, 600 m elevation gain Villa Romana del Casale – SP 90-SP15-SP89a – Piazza Armerina - SP16-SP37i - Mirabella Imbaccari – DP37i-SS124 – Caltagirone (722 m). https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caltagirone

7th Stage: 45 km, 300 m elevation gain Caltagirone – SS124-SP34 – Riserva Naturale Orientata Bosco di Santo Pietro – SP34-SP2 - Acate – SP2 – Vittoria (168 m).

8th Stage: 40 km, 700 m elevation gain Vittoria – SS115 – Comiso – SP52 – Ragusa – SS115 – Modica (296 m). https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ragusa https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modica

9th Stage: 50 km, 200 m elevation gain Modica – SP43-SP86-SP45 - Pozzallo – SP45-SP67-SP50-SP8 – Portopalo di Capo Passero (0 m). https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capo_Passero

10th Stage: 48 km, 200 m elevation gain Portopalo di Capo Passero – SP84 – Marzamemi – Riserva naturale orientata Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari – SP19-SS115 - Noto – SS115 – Marina di Avola – SS115-SP104 – Lido Fontane Bianche (0 m) (probably Sicily’s most beautiful beach). https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noto_(Italia) http://www.sicile.ch/pages/fontane_bianche.html

11th Stage: 35 km, 130 m elevation gain Lido Fontane Bianche – SP104 – Arenella – Punta Milocca - Terrauzza – Faro di Capo Murro di Porco – Grotta della Pillirina – Faro di Punta Castelluccio - SP104-SS115 – Siracusa (17 m). https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siracusa

Total: 492 km, 5,930 m elevation gain.

Mapping this out really makes me realize how big Sicily is and how unrealistic it’d be to try to see everything in one trip.

I’ll let you digest this info. I’ll try to map out a coastal route with a few shortcuts next.

PS. To wrap up, about road conditions: They range from excellent to "bombed-out" roads. Mostly in the central area (where I vacation). On this route, that applies to Stage 3 from San Giovanni Gemini to Mussomeli and Stage 4 from Mussomeli to Serradifalco… (and they want you to go through there?) 😮 You have to—it’s breathtaking. 😎 You’ll ride on roads that are sometimes sunken, with short unpaved sections (a few meters after landslides patched up with quick fixes). It’s wild compared to our standards, but I ride these roads on a road bike with 23mm tires and never get flats. Still, stay alert on descents—watch out for distracted livestock…

Thanks for reading this far!

Marius.
VI Villardstpan ·
Wow, thanks Marius, what amazing work, really big thanks!! I’m working at the moment so I’m a bit short on time, but I’ve looked at the itinerary and it seems pretty good. It overlaps with a lot of places I’d already spotted. I work a lot with open runner to really nail down the route and especially the elevation gain, so I’ll take a closer look at that.

We’ve got about 20 days available for cycling. I like to keep a little buffer in case we want to stay longer at a stop, so it seems like I can free up 5 or 6 more days of cycling—but where, without changing the itinerary?

I’ve got two ideas: either heading toward the Zingaro Reserve first and then looping back to Ficuzza via Alcamo, San Giuseppe Jato, and Piana degli Albanesi to continue the route. Or, from Syracuse, taking the train to Caltanissetta and then cycling toward the Madonie to reach Cefalù, but skirting the mountains a bit because otherwise, I think it’ll be too much climbing!! Maybe this is totally unrealistic—what do you think of these ideas? The hardest part will be finding accommodations at reasonable prices over this length of time; that’ll take some planning.

I know Trenitalia. We’re leaving from home, right by the Italian border, to reach the first train station in Italy and head to Genoa—no need to park a car that way!! Thanks again—I’ll keep chipping away at it day by day, and I’m always open to any ideas!! Have a great day
MI Milocca ·
I always enjoy talking about cycling and Sicily, so no problem.

Getting back to the different options, it's possible to go from Palermo to Castellammare del Golfo in one day—70 km and 500m of elevation gain (you can stop earlier if needed). Day 2: explore the Zingaro Nature Reserve via Porticello. Days 3 and 4: head to Ficuzza, adding another 3 days to the trip.

The Madonie option from Caltanissetta, even following the mountain range, will be hilly, with +1000m over 50km and long climbs.

There’s a third option: Take the train to Agrigento. Then, from Agrigento to Palermo along the coast is 320 km—about 6 days of riding plus 1 transfer day. This route has a lot of remarkable sights. Just note that the wind will be against you in this direction—on a bike, that counts double…

It all depends on how long you plan to stay in Syracuse… and also on your endurance! 🙂

Have a great evening.
LA Langenscheid Veteran ·
Planning a trip in September, once it’s a bit cooler, I’ve noted some things to see:

AL Alsardéchois ·
Aaaaah Sicily... Rough, unique, scorching, historic, welcoming, surprising... words fail to describe this Mediterranean gem. We cycled there for 3 weeks in 2016. Quickly (since I already posted our detailed route above), I’d recommend not missing the Zingaro Reserve, Caltagirone, and Syracuse. Our top 3 favorites. A little preview here: https://ensellemarcel.wordpress.com/2016/08/07/sicile/

Happy travels
Cyclo touristes en couple. Tour d'EUrope en 2016, Route de la Soie en 2017, Afrique australe en 2018. Notre blog https://ensellemarcel.wordpress.com/
MI Milocca ·
Looks like a great trip ahead. I completely agree about the qualities and unique features of this island. As for the route, after Taormina, I wouldn’t miss the foothills of Mount Etna—the scenery there is spectacular. Bonus: much less traffic than along the coast, plus guaranteed sea views. For example, you could go via Linguaglossa, Milo, Zafferana Etnea, Nicolosi, and then descend back to the coast. Consider heading up to Rifugio Sapienza—it’s a beautiful road. A note on September weather: in recent years, the weather has been quite unstable with frequent afternoon storms, while northern Europe was unusually sunny. I also experienced a severe heatwave in 2014... so, you never know what to expect!
LA Langenscheid Veteran ·
Thanks for the info.

I’m planning to start in Palermo and finish in Messina before taking a train to Rome.

Is it better to push to October for the weather? Or should I just postpone until next year and go in March-April?

MI Milocca ·
For the weather, climate change makes it unpredictable. In 2017, October was better than September, while in 2018, both September and October were stormy. Showers usually happened in the middle of the afternoon. Normally, March is rainy, and April is a bit less so. For the blooming season, April turns Sicily into real alpine meadows... flowers everywhere along the roads... spectacular. Ideal temperatures during the day, cool at night.
LA Langenscheid Veteran ·
Thanks for the info.
VI Villardstpan ·
Hi Marcus, Our departure is approaching. Thanks to you, the itinerary is all set—will we be able to follow it all the way? I’ll let you know when we’re back! I kept your initial proposal but decided to pass through the Zingaro Reserve with a one-day stop, then we’ll reach the Albanian village in two days, and I’ll rejoin your itinerary. I split a few stages in two and planned a stop in Ragusa and, of course, Syracuse. The whole thing ends with a train ride back to Palermo. I’ve spotted a few accommodations via Booking, Airbnb, and we’ll surely discover some on the spot—only the big cities are booked. I think it should work out. Promise, I’ll tell you all about it when we’re back! Thanks again, and have a great rest of the day. Corinne
MI Milocca ·
Hi Corinne,

Great to hear about both of you—the excitement of departure is contagious! May and June are ideal months in Sicily, especially for cycling. I hope Aeolus (the wind god) will be kind or favorable. Your itinerary leaves plenty of room for discovery and sharing, which is the beauty of bike travel. I can’t wait to hear your impressions when you return.

Marius.
VI Villardstpan ·
Hi Marius, It’s been two weeks since we returned from our cycling trip in Sicily, and I wanted to let you know that thanks to your route suggestions, we had an amazing journey! We followed the planned itinerary—it was perfect!! Great distribution of kilometers and elevation, just right for us—not too difficult but still with some good climbs! The weather wasn’t exceptional, aside from being quite cool for May according to the locals we met along the way, but it was just perfect for cycling since it never got too hot. We were really lucky because we passed through before or after the storms... some areas are so wild that I wouldn’t have wanted to be caught in the rain on my bike with no shelter! The roads are sometimes a bit rough (or even unfinished!), but they’re passable everywhere. The landscapes are incredible, covered in flowers that create a stunning play of colors. I hadn’t imagined so much relief or so many lakes, and I love all these hilltop villages with their clustered houses. Thank you so much for your advice—we discovered a beautiful island, far from the usual tourist spots, except for the Baroque towns with their enchanting charm and Sicilians everywhere who were incredibly kind. For anyone planning a cycling trip, I’m happy to share! Have a great summer everyone
MI Milocca ·
Hello to both of you, Glad you enjoyed your trip, despite the unusually chilly weather for the season (it was sometimes nicer in France). You avoided the heatwave that’s been hitting for a week now—12 hours a day. It’s going to drag on through July and August, with temperatures exceeding 40°C in Sicily and Calabria in July. Blame the African anticyclone covering the southern Mediterranean… and blocking storms in northern Europe (including France). With such a climate, alternating between torrential rains and long droughts, the roads take a beating—they crack, sink, and deteriorate. And since public funds seem to vanish, some stretches have questionable road conditions. Still, it didn’t ruin your fun, and I’m happy I could contribute in a small way. Yes, Sicilians are amazing people who quietly endure the state’s shortcomings. It’d be great if you could share a quick cost breakdown of your trip—some prices for accommodations, meals, pizzas, coffee… to show that beyond its beauty, this destination is also budget-friendly. A few photos of Sicily’s green and blooming landscapes would be lovely too. Happy cycling!
VI Villardstpan ·
Hi Marius, My replies are a bit late, but I haven’t forgotten... so here are a few additional details: Overall, life isn’t expensive, and it’s nothing like Northern Italy, for example. Coffee: 0.80 € Water: it’s best, we were told, to drink bottled water (issues with old and poorly maintained pipes). I don’t remember the exact price, but large 2-liter bottles cost around 1 €. We always went to restaurants in the evening, usually recommended by our host—small local spots where we ate really well (often pasta, but not only, to fuel up for the next day’s cycling!): between 12 € and 20 € max per person. We found accommodations mostly on Airbnb, sometimes on Booking. Always spotlessly clean, simple, and welcoming, with breakfast included—rooms ranged from 23 € to 58 € (only once at that price). No problem taking bikes on the train for free. No problem taking bikes on the boat either—it’s free too. Here are one or two photos to give you an idea of this beautiful destination
MI Milocca ·
Hi Corinne, Thanks for these comments. And yes, prices are reasonable in Sicily—except for fuel, which works out well since we don’t need it when cycling. I recognize that lush Sicily, it’s stunning—like being in the mountains, even though right now it’s taken on the look of the Sahel. I spotted the photo with the lake—Piana degli Albanesi. The first one has me stumped, though—it was early in the trip. Those red patches in the fields come from a forage plant called Sulla, which blooms red. It’s grown as animal feed, for medicine, and even honey. With pollination, those scattered red patches pop up sporadically in the landscape, especially along the roads. Anyway, even with short stages, you’ve got real grit—cycling with all that gear must’ve really reminded you of gravity’s pull on those long climbs.
DA Dakp ·
thanks for this info, do you have any GPX tracks from your trip?
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More discussions

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Opai 17 hours ago · Vfpromeneur
What's a good alternative to FlixBus for taking your bike?
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike. It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it. But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes... What alternatives do you know about? Thanks.
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HE
HetN1215 2 days ago · Explora30
V45 Roscoff-Brest: Is there too much traffic in August?
Hi there,

I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).

Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August! Virginie
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NA
Nath009 last week
Questions about exploring the Carretera Austral
Hi there,

I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires. I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time). I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.

I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral. I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.

I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.

I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?

What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough? And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?

Nath
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KR
Kroston44 last week
What transport options are available for bikes from Rotterdam to Nantes?
Hi everyone,

This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam. My question is about getting back to Nantes. Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences. I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes. By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains. We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.

Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance! Have a great evening
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LO
Lolo1604 2 weeks ago · Cbandiera
Questions about the Vélosud route from Biarritz to Le Barcarès
Hi there, I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week. I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès. Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route! Thanks in advance. Laurent.
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PI
Pierlu 2 weeks ago · Smopy44
Low-travel suspension fork for a touring bike
Hi there,

I’m planning to build a new touring bike. I want to prioritize lightness. That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads. The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper. I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork. Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm. It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.

Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?

I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring. And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear. More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?

Thanks in advance
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TT
Tthomas130 3 weeks ago
My friend José from Auterive's cycling trip to the North Cape
Hi everyone, I wanted to share with you the incredible feat my friend José, who’s 72 years old, is currently undertaking. He left Auterive near Toulouse on Monday, May 18, 2026, on his non-electric bike, heading for the North Cape in Norway! You can follow his route on the link below—he’s currently in Sweden: https://thierry-thomas.travelmap.net/jose-de-toulouse-a-nord-cap-2026 You can zoom in on the map and click on each stopover town to see the photos
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SI
Simonthread 3 weeks ago
Provence - Cycling Around the Luberon, EuroVelo 8, and Other Bike Routes
Hi there!

I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.



It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.









One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.





We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.







Our full story:

Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence

You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:

Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes

S.
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TR
Treizelunes last month · Kurtinet
Train + bikes Treviso to Munich
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
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AL
Alesq50 2 months ago
How to repair a Suntour SF11 fork and where to find parts?
Hi everyone, Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.

The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.

Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.

Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
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MA
Marie140962 2 months ago · BenjaminWst
Beginner bike touring on the Via Rhona
Hi there, New to bike touring, I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided). Looking forward to exchanging tips!
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EN
Endlessummer 2 months ago · Etranger
Biking in Madagascar: What loop route from Antananarivo?
hey everyone,

I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.

Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?

Thanks in advance, Jérôme
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BI
Biclou1948 2 months ago · Larazou
Questions about cycling the Tessaout Valley
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum! I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009. Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem. Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!

Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
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CB
Cbandiera 2 months ago
Cycling route of the Savoie lakes
A shout-out to a cycling colleague from Savoie

Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...

A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...

N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php



The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

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HÉ
Hélaine34 2 months ago · Willyk2
Hydraulic disc brakes and breakdowns
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017! I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes. What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
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TO
TomVon63 3 months ago · Philbike
Cycling Algeria’s Coast – January 2025 Trip Report
Hi everyone,

First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.

Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.

Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.

With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...

We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!

You’ve been warned.
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IS
Isoali 3 months ago · Jeandorado
Cycling from Lille to Nordkapp: advice on my route
Hi there, I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner. Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026. In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically). So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip? Thanks in advance for your great tips. Have a good evening. https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
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AI
Aichatou 3 months ago
Gas canisters in Dubrovnik and Albania
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
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PI
Pierlu 3 months ago · FloAsie
Traffic conditions on the Louang Namtha–Houei Sai road for cycling across
Hi there,

Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.

Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.

At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.

So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.

Thanks in advance!

(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
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PI
Pierlu 3 months ago · Fanragnotti
Account of my cycling trip through Yunnan
Hi there,

Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.

Entry and exit

I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.

The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.

No issues with the bike.

I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.

The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.

The timing

I visited Yunnan in February 2026.

Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.

I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.

Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.

Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.

A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.

Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).

An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.

I only managed to use Alipay.

Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.

Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.

Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).

In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.

The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).

Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.

You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.

The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.

Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.

The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.

Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).

Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.

Oh well... 😉
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MA
Mariebicycle 3 months ago · Fanragnotti
Stockholm Archipelago by bike in 4 days
Hi! I’m planning to visit the Stockholm Archipelago by bike in early April. Do you know if the boats will be running between the different islands at that time of year? For those who’ve already been, all your tips and recommendations are welcome—accommodation, etc. Also, do you know where I can rent a bike in Stockholm? Thanks so much in advance for your help!
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CB
Cbandiera 3 months ago
Cycling trip through the Po Valley and Venice
Hello there, pedal-powered Young Boys! Claudio (still from Faverges) dreaming about a cycling getaway in Italy from Faverges (train all the way to Turin) from Turin down to Venice along the Po River and back via the Padana (Alta Italia da attraversare – Northern Italy to cross) The tricky part is getting from Chioggia to Venice. I read it’s possible by hopping on a boat from island to island, but it sounds a bit stressful. Has anyone already tackled this route?

Thanks, and cheers to all! http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/Padania/

Claudio
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MI
Minimetro 3 months ago · Vfpromeneur
Tips for choosing a long-distance touring bike
Hi there,

I’m currently looking for a bike to do my first bike trip across France, with the ultimate goal of cycling through Latin America. I’ve got a lot of questions and I’d love to hear if you have any answers or advice to share. First off, I’ve been through this before with hiking. I want to get top-quality gear right away. When I started hiking, I ended up buying everything three times—first beginner gear, then intermediate, then expert, etc. For biking, I’d prefer to skip that process and invest right now in a bike that could ideally handle Latin America. I’ve set a total max budget of around 5000 € (roughly 4000–4500 € for the bike and the rest for accessories: panniers, helmet, cycling shorts, etc.).

So, I’ve got quite a few questions:

* I’ve read in several places that some people recommend buying the bike directly in Latin America. Since I need a first bike to train in Europe, would it be better to buy an entry-level bike in France (and sell it before the big departure)? Or is it preferable to start right away with my final bike to get used to it? Is buying it there just to save a bit of money?

* For a long-term trip (around six months) in Latin America, is it better to go for a gravel bike or a mountain bike?

* Should I buy a new bike or a refurbished one? Even more so given that I’m planning a long trip—could a refurbished bike end up causing more breakdowns?

If you have any advice on models, technical features to prioritize, or recommended sellers or resellers, I’d love to hear it. I’m a total beginner—I’ve only just started watching videos and reading up on the subject, and all the technical specs are new to me!

Thanks in advance for your help!
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