One-month itinerary in Central Asia
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
GO
Hello! I’m so excited to be back on this forum—it’s helped me so much in the past! I need your expert advice for our next trip, which will take us to Central Asia: Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Kazakhstan.

We have a month, and here’s the itinerary I have in mind: Arrival in Tashkent – 2 days Bukhara – 2 days Samarkand – 3 days Panjakent – 1 day The Seven Lakes + Iskanderkul – 3 days Khujand – 2 days Fergana Valley – 3 days Song Kol Lake – 2 days Issyk-Kul Lake – 3 days Charyn Canyon – 1 day Kaindy Lake – 1 day Altyn Emel Park – 1 day Almaty – 1 day and departure

I know the travel times, especially in the mountains, can be long, but I’ve tried to optimize it so we can rest after the long drives. Our family includes three kids aged 5, 13, and 17. We’re used to backpacking. But I have *so* many questions: -Will it be extremely hot in Uzbekistan, but manageable in the other regions on my itinerary? -I’ve read conflicting things about trains in Uzbekistan: is it possible to book train tickets in advance from France? -For the Seven Lakes and Iskanderkul, do I need to hire a driver? Is it easy to find one? Since there are five of us, we’d need a large car… or is it possible to rent a car in Panjakent and drop it off in Khujand? -What’s worth visiting in the Fergana Valley? -I’d prefer to avoid domestic flights, so I planned to break up the Osh-Issyk-Kul Lake route by stopping at Song Kol Lake and taking a horseback ride. Is that realistic? Again, do I need to find a driver, or can we do it independently? -Where’s the best base for Issyk-Kul Lake? The main goal is to relax and swim (is it acceptable for women to wear swimsuits in these regions?) -For the last part of the trip—Charyn Canyon and Kaindy Lake from Issyk-Kul—is it doable, or do I need a driver once more? -Is Altyn Emel Park doable in the summer, or is it too hot? The idea is to see the views and do a short 3-hour hike.

Thanks so much for any firsthand tips or experiences you can share!
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Hi there,

You didn’t mention exactly what season you’re traveling in—or did I read too quickly? Summer, but summer’s a long season...

Michel
GO Gomar Regular ·
Hi, yes, I forgot: from early July to early August!
CA Carassou Veteran ·
Hi Gomar, As an old hand at public transport, I traveled to the four countries you mentioned between 2001 and 2011... so I’ll share a few tips that might help you plan your route.

Uzbekistan -In July and August, the heat was scorching; I’d get up at dawn and retreat around 11 AM for a long siesta with reading on the floor on carpets, using a fan or a draft... until about 4-5 PM. I adjusted my stay by extending the length of each stop. You’ll probably need accommodation with ventilation or air conditioning for the kids. -Transport: I didn’t use trains or planes; there are shared taxis at bus stations, and the manager at each accommodation would ask one of their contacts to come pick me up. Since you’re traveling as a family, you’ll fill the vehicle, which will drop you off in the city you choose—or even right at your accommodation. It’s cheaper than renting a car. This way of getting around could work well for moving between the cities you visit. So, pick your accommodation and trust the (English-speaking) manager to arrange the next leg of your journey. -Samarkand: Two full days should be enough if you start early. -The Fergana Valley disappointed me because it’s quite urbanized... a stop in Andijan to visit a silk factory might be enough.

Tajikistan -At higher altitudes, it’s less hot, though you’ll still feel the heat in the cities—it’s manageable. -The same principle applies for getting around: shared taxis, arranged by your accommodation manager. -The Four Lakes: You’ll need a full day, and it’s stunning when there’s no wind and the mountains reflect in the clear, limpid water. We had a vehicle with a driver to take us to the end point, where simple accommodation was waiting. My travel companion walked from lake to lake, while I kept it simple (I’d just had back surgery) and stayed in the car, which moved slowly. I only got out to take photos. Highly recommended!

Kyrgyzstan -Lake SonKul Accommodations are in summer yurts near locals... simple but comfortable enough for the location. Everything’s provided for meals. Horse rental is available on-site if you ask. I saw tourists doing horseback riding. Swimming: Probably possible, but more like a quick dip—I didn’t test it.

I assume you’re planning to fly into Tashkent and out of Almaty for this trip.

That’s all I can share in detail, but my travels in Central Asia left me with unforgettable memories... other travelers who’ve visited more recently will surely chime in with updates.

Anyway, happy planning! Françoise
GO Gomar Regular ·
Hi Françoise, and thank you so much for your feedback!

You're absolutely right—arriving in Tashkent and departing from Almaty is the cheapest option for the five of us. Thanks also for sharing your experience with the routes; that’s exactly what’s worrying me the most right now. I’m afraid we might get stuck at some stops if we can’t find suitable transport for all five of us.

Noted about the Fergana Valley—I’ll shorten it a bit. What do you think about my plan to head to Lake Issyk from Osh? Is it doable, or not realistic at all?

For Uzbekistan, I was hoping to find something with air conditioning.

See you soon! !
CA Carassou Veteran ·
Hi Gomar, I went back through my notes and maps, but my trip to Kyrgyzstan was in the opposite direction to the one you’re planning (it was Bishkek to Tashkent).

One of my routes was a round trip from Kochkor to Song Kul Lake: a stunning road that went through the Kalmak-Ashuu Pass with marmots whistling on the sides. Naryn to Jalal-Abad to Osh, but I stopped in Jalal-Abad to check out the mud baths at the Soviet-era thermal spas. From Osh, I made my way to the Fergana Valley to visit Uzbekistan.

But I went to Issyk Kul Lake at the start of my trip, and I’m guessing for you it’ll be the last stop before heading to Almaty to catch your return flight. The lake is very touristy, both for locals (it’s close to Bishkek) and foreigners. That’s where you’ll need to book a homestay—no swimming restrictions. Also, book the bus from there to Almaty, but from what I remember, they were pretty frequent. Worth checking now, though.

That said, between Osh and Issyk Kul Lake, it’s a long leg that you’ll probably need to break up, maybe via Kazarmann and Kochkor. According to an old LP guide, it’s doable by juggling public transport. Hiring a car with a driver could be a good alternative, as a one-way rental might be very expensive or even impossible.

- Maybe it’d be a good idea to buy a map of Kyrgyzstan from Vieux Campeur or a site like nostromoweb.fr before you leave.

Sorry I can’t tell you more. Wishing you great and fruitful preparations for your Central Asia adventure! Françoise
PE Perju Globetrotter ·
Hi there, A few remarks. Uzbekistan: 2 days in Samarkand is indeed enough, 2 days in Bukhara—maybe even one more—and why skip Khiva? So, 2 days in this stunning city as well. A detour to the desert fortresses seems pretty cool, especially since you're already in the country... but you can easily skip the Fergana Valley, so the time saved can be used for the desert fortresses instead. The Aral Sea with a guide and their 4x4 is definitely a must in the region—it’d be a shame to miss it. Kyrgyzstan: Lake Issyk-Kul... meh, maybe check out the red cliffs of Jeti-Oghuz Canyon instead. On the other hand, the Song-Kul Lake area is gorgeous, with some great trails to get there and back while making a loop. Sharyn Canyon is definitely worth seeing too.
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
NI Nicketsand Regular ·
Watch out for altitude—without having checked the whole itinerary—make sure to plan acclimatization time if you're heading to places above 3,000m! Otherwise, it can get pretty tough, and altitude sickness can strike at any time, even if you've always handled it well before! We recommend not sleeping more than 400m higher than the previous night once you're above 3,000m. You can go up and down during the day—I’m mainly saying this for Tajikistan!
Sandrine Blog Voyages et Enfants: Voyager en famille est un jeu d'enfant!
PE Perju Globetrotter ·
Hi there, If you're in good health, with no heart or respiratory issues, an altitude of 3,000m isn't a problem—especially if you're not exerting yourself too much. No trouble sleeping either. Problems arise when you ascend quickly to high altitudes, like going from 1,000m to 4,000m in a short time, *and* if you're exerting yourself. Every day, hundreds of people take the Aiguille du Midi cable car in Chamonix, going from 1,000m to 3,800m in just a few minutes. You might feel short of breath, but very few people actually feel unwell.
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
NI Nicketsand Regular ·
Thanks for the details, but having lived over 6 months at 4,000m altitude (and managing sudden descents and ascents that really take a toll on the body), altitude sickness can strike at any time—some people faint or struggle badly during the first few days at those heights. So it’s best for this family to ask themselves these questions *before* symptoms appear (though, of course, not everyone suffers from it!)
Sandrine Blog Voyages et Enfants: Voyager en famille est un jeu d'enfant!
PE Perju Globetrotter ·
There’s a huge difference between moving around calmly at 3,000m—especially sleeping there—and doing an activity at 4,000m. Living at 4,000m for 6 months isn’t an issue since, normally, acclimatization happens within the first few days, so there’s little risk of altitude sickness afterward... unless there’s a specific health condition. A healthy person has nothing to worry about around 3,000m, but above that, it depends on the person’s physical condition and how gradually they ascend. That said, definitely keep this in mind if traveling to Tajikistan—there are quite a few passes above 4,000m.
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
GO Gomar Regular ·
Thanks Françoise for this feedback.

Why did you go through Naryn? Is there anything special to do there?

Based on the feedback, I might shorten my trip or even skip the Fergana Valley. In that case, I’ll need to connect Tashkent to Bishkek. I don’t feel like taking an internal flight, and I’ve heard the train isn’t running anymore. Maybe break up the journey somewhere between the two?
GO Gomar Regular ·
Thanks for this feedback—it’s making me rethink my original itinerary a bit 😄

I’d skipped Khiva because it’s a bit out of the way, and after two cities, I was craving some nature and somewhere "cooler." Of course, the Aral Sea fascinates me, but is it actually easy to get to? I’m worried it’ll be *super* hot, same with the desert fortresses.

We might shorten our stay by Lake Issyk-Kul a little—the main idea was just to chill for a few days.
GO Gomar Regular ·
Thanks for pointing that out—I hadn’t thought of it! I’ll check the stages planned in Kyrgyzstan to see the altitude and be careful about it.
PE Perju Globetrotter ·
For me—and this is really personal—Samarqand feels very much like a European city: heavy traffic, standard shops and restaurants, with obviously some beautiful historic sites. Bukhara takes you back in time a bit; it’s much more rustic, with a real Central Asian vibe. There are plenty of little rooftop restaurants with great views of the monuments, and you’ll definitely feel like you’ve stepped into another world. Khiva is a whole different story—it’s like a museum city at the edge of the desert. There’s nothing else quite like it compared to the other cities. To get to the Aral Sea, you’ll need to hire a guide with a 4x4. I think it’s possible from Nukus, or you can head straight to Moynaq. I don’t have the details since I travel with my own 4x4. As for the temperature, I’ve been to the region several times in July and August. It varies from year to year and place to place, but I didn’t really suffer from the heat. The upside is that there are way fewer tourists visiting the country. I’ve got photos and videos of Khiva with empty streets...
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
LE Lescs Regular ·
Hello,

For Khiva, the streets being empty is a thing of the past, day and night.

I completely agree with you on choosing to visit the castles and the western shore of the Aral Sea. The landslides of the old steep coastline are impressive with their colors and cracks.

A new track has been created between Moynaq and the western shore due to the installation of a gas or oil pipeline. With a 4x4, we’ll avoid digging and making ruts in the sandy areas. 😏

There are agencies that offer routes; we came across vehicles on the tracks during our last trip in September 2024.
CS

www.lescs.fr
PE Perju Globetrotter ·
With a 4x4, we'll avoid digging and making ruts in sandy areas.

You took the words right out of my mouth... PS: Happy New Year! [;]
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
LE Lescs Regular ·
Hi there,

At the bottom of the pages linked below, you’ll find PDF files you can view on the site or download for the areas you’re interested in.

Our trip reports from our latest 2024 journey aren’t all online yet. Like Perju, we’re traveling with our own 4x4 vehicle. Just a heads-up: the distances to cover and road conditions aren’t up to our European standards. Happy planning and reading!

https://www.lescs.fr/Asie-Centrale-2019

https://www.lescs.fr/Asie-Centrale-2024
CS

www.lescs.fr
CA Carassou Veteran ·
Hi Gomar, Here’s some info to add to the previous details.

Tashkent-Bishkek: There’s a very slow train (I think once or twice a week) that takes a big detour via the city of Shymkent in Kazakhstan. Back in Soviet times, the train was built to connect the Soviet republics, and people could travel freely within the USSR. Sure, the route still exists, but independent countries have emerged since 1991... It takes at least 22 hours. Tashkent-Bishkek: By bus, it’s a 12-hour trip with frequent departures.

Uzbekistan: - Khiva should also be on your list of cities to visit. It’s truly a museum city, and I wouldn’t skip it for a quick visit.

Desert fortresses: You can get there from Khiva by private taxi. With two other backpackers, we did this excursion, and it didn’t leave an unforgettable memory—I’m not really into old stones... But the taxi stopped so I could see a cotton plant up close in the surrounding fields. The cotton harvest is in October.

Khiva-Nukus: 180 km of flat road. Train (7h) or bus, or shared taxi (at least 4h). Note that a private taxi can take a detour via the desert fortresses (agree on this with the driver). In that case, plan for a full day.

Nukus: A superb, air-conditioned museum displays a collection of Soviet avant-garde paintings saved by a curator before 1940 to avoid their destruction by Stalin. It’s called "the Louvre of the desert." With no visitors and the AC running (it was over 40°C outside), I really enjoyed it. There’s nothing like it in Russia. Nukus-Moynaq: It’s a long drive with a rental car and driver, as mentioned. The boats are stranded in the sand, and you can’t see the Aral Sea from there. It’s not uninteresting, but is this detour worth it on such a trip?

Kyrgyzstan: Naryn is a small town with banks, accommodations, and a starting point for Alay Bashi, and from there to Tash Rabat, where a caravanserai was built. You can stay in a yurt in the surrounding alpine pastures. You’re close to the Chinese border and the Torugart Pass to reach China’s Xinjiang province.

Lake Issyk-Kul: Cholpon-Ata is the central town with the most nuisances along the lake—hotels, restaurants, nightclubs. Avoid this side of the lake. Instead, stay on the other side for accommodation and a dip in the water. Yes, there are tourists all around the lake, but the farther you get from Cholpon-Ata, the fewer there are. It could be a nice stop for the family before Almaty.

I’ll add that staying in a yurt for 1 or 2 nights will be a great experience for the kids. Several spots have been suggested for stops, and they’re all pretty similar: herders camp with their flocks in the alpine pastures and have a "guest yurt" for tourists. The inside is set up to accommodate several people without feeling cramped. There’s plenty of space, and you sleep on the floor with thick quilts, pillows, and foot covers. I brought my lightweight silk sleeping bag liner. No running water—there’s lake water, and the toilets are farther away. The hostess offers at least breakfast, if not other meals, and tea is always available. The small cluster of yurts is like a little village, and there are horses for rides.

In Kyrgyzstan, there’s a community-based tourism initiative that manages rural activities in the most remote areas, especially for yurts: Community Based Tourism (CBT) https//cbtkyrgyzstan.kg

Altitude and health concerns: I didn’t have any issues during my travels there. Sure, I crossed passes over 3,000 meters, but I didn’t stay at those altitudes. However, on some trips—like arriving directly in Leh from Srinagar—I had a nosebleed and struggled to get my backpack down from the bus roof. Leh is at 3,500 meters, so physical activity isn’t something you can just jump into at high altitudes without acclimatization, as Nicketsand and Perju pointed out.

To get an idea of the landscapes, check out what Lescs offers—it’s very realistic.

That’s all—I’ve tried to give you as much info as possible to plan your trip, keeping in mind your family’s travel style and budget.

Françoise
GO Gomar Regular ·
Hi Perju, thanks for the info. I’ll see if we can fit Khiva into our itinerary after all. A little detour to the Aral Sea is tempting! I’ll look into whether we can get from Khiva to Moynak and find a driver there. Might have to shorten our time in Samarkand as a result!
GO Gomar Regular ·
Thanks so much for these links—I went through them, and they’re really inspiring! Since we don’t have a 4x4, we’ll have to adapt, but I found this company, iDrive 4x4, that rents fully equipped vehicles with rooftop tents in Kyrgyzstan, and now I’m *super* excited about it! !
GO Gomar Regular ·
Thanks Françoise for this info. I almost gave up on the project because flight tickets had gone up by 2000 €, but I finally found a way to stick to my original route: arriving in Bukhara and departing from Almaty, which should make for a great itinerary in a month! The Aral Sea is tempting, but the desert castles less so (I went to those in Jordan last year and they were amazing—I’d rather keep those memories intact!!). Still, it’s a long detour for a time that’s unfortunately quite limited!

For Lake Issyk-Kul, I was thinking of arriving from the south and stopping more on the Karakol side (or rather on one shore of the lake).

For the yurt experience and horseback riding, I was planning to enjoy those during our days by Lake Song-Kul. Quick safety question: do they lend helmets for horseback riding, or is that just wishful thinking? 😄 The kids have never ridden before, so it’d reassure everyone—but I know our Western safety standards don’t always apply outside the West...
PE Perju Globetrotter ·
Okay, I won’t go on about the potholes again... but I’m really intrigued by your partner—was it from birth, a transplant, or is Majax lurking around here?
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
BA Babarovich ·
Hi Gomar! 😊

I’d love to share my incredible experience in Kyrgyzstan. Here’s a detailed itinerary that might inspire your next trip: Day 1: Almaty → Bishkek After arriving in Almaty, I headed straight to Bishkek. Crossing the Kazakh border was pretty smooth, and within a few hours, I was in the Kyrgyz capital. Bishkek is a pleasant city with wide avenues, shady parks, and an interesting mix of Soviet architecture and local traditions. I visited Ala-Too Square, the Osh Market, and tried my first Kyrgyz dishes at a small local canteen.

Day 2: Bishkek → Chong Kemin After a relaxed morning in Bishkek, I set off for Chong Kemin, a stunning valley nestled between mountains and forests. Along the way, I stopped at the Burana Tower, a relic of the Silk Road. Once in Chong Kemin, I enjoyed a beautiful hike in the valley before spending the night with a local family—a great opportunity to chat with the locals.

Day 3: Chong Kemin → Song Kul The drive to Song Kul is an adventure in itself, with incredible mountain roads and landscapes that change with every kilometer. Arriving at the lake is magical: a vast expanse of water surrounded by pastures where horses and sheep graze. There are no villages here, just a few yurts and untouched nature. I spent the evening talking with nomads and admiring a starry sky of rare purity.

Day 4: Day at Song Kul A full day to enjoy the lake and nomadic life. Horseback riding in the morning, a refreshing swim in the lake in the afternoon, and time spent chatting with local families. They explained their way of life, their connection to animals, and the importance of certain traditions, like making *koumiss* (fermented mare’s milk).

Day 5: Song Kul → Tash Rabat Heading south to Tash Rabat, an ancient stone caravanserai hidden in an isolated valley. The place is steeped in history, and it’s easy to imagine the merchants and travelers who once stopped here. I spent the night in a yurt nearby, surrounded by impressive mountains.

Day 6: Tash Rabat → Issyk-Kul After a morning exploring the area, I hit the road for Issyk-Kul, the second-largest mountain lake in the world. Unlike Song Kul, this one has villages, beaches, and even some thermal resorts. I stopped in Karakol, a town blending Russian and Kyrgyz influences, before continuing to the northern shore of the lake.

Day 7: Issyk-Kul → Bishkek Final day on the road, returning to Bishkek along the northern shore of Issyk-Kul. Along the way, I visited the petroglyphs of Cholpon-Ata, a fascinating glimpse into the region’s ancient civilizations. Back in Bishkek, I took some time to wander the streets one last time before wrapping up this trip.

Kyrgyzstan really left its mark on me with its breathtaking landscapes and the warmth of its people. It’s a country worth discovering, especially for those who love adventure and authenticity.
GO Gomar Regular ·
Hi and thank you so much for your feedback! 🙂 I have a few questions: as a woman, when swimming in the lakes, is it better to be dressed or is a swimsuit okay? For Lake Son Kul, do you have a particular camp to recommend? I gathered that there are more family-friendly camps, with 5 or 6 yurts, and much larger camps aimed more at tourists...

Thanks! And have a great day
LE Lescs Regular ·
Free country, you choose the clothing that suits you. A pullover might come in handy!!!!
CS

www.lescs.fr
GO Gomar Regular ·
thanks! we’ll think about it! ;)

Similar discussions

You might also like