je venais d'atterrir à Marrakech.
Il faisait froid, il pleuvait, tout était gris. dans une semaine, ça fera un an.. que pour la première fois j'arpentais le désert...
il y a un an.
Depuis... pas partie.
Le désert est dans ma tête, dans mon coeur. Il ne me quitte pas.
Beau désert à ceux qui sont en partance.
Saluez les acacias, les cailloux noirs et les coquillages, les dunes fatigantes et les thés du réconfort, les étoiles du bien-être. Saluez en silence le silence de ces espaces.
Prenez le temps.
Et racontez-nous...
Si vous voulez.
oui, oui, c'est gentiment demandé!
D'autant plus que tes nouvelles aventures marocaines se dérouleront là où j'aurais voulu prolonger mon voyage.
Et...un petit côté intéressé, je l'avoue : savoir si tout ce coin est gérable en transports en commun, il y a si peu de témoignages.
Beau voyage!
euh...
bonjour Hamid,
je suis vraiment désolée et gênée.
Mon carnet, je l'ai supprimé il y a quelques mois... Je vivais mal ce sentiment d'avoir trop raconté mon désert, à trop de monde.
Je n'avais pas compris que je pouvais encore le modifier et la seule solution qui m'étais venue à l'esprit pour reprendre cette petite part de moi que je voulais garder...pour moi (la fin du carnet) a été de supprimer la totalité du carnet. Quand j'ai compris que j'aurais pu élaguer un peu moins, il était trop tard.
Il existe encore dans ma mp et ... dans l'esprit de quelques lecteurs je vois! Mais il n'est plus accessible.
La prochaine fois, peut-être.
Je savais bien que ça me tomberait dessus un jour...
bonjour, KelEssuf il n'y a pas à être gênée, tu nous as fait aimer le désert nous qui aspirons à la verdure, comme je te l'ai dit ton carnet je l'ai imprimé merci encore à bientôt.
Je comprends tout à fait ce que tu ressens.... mais bonne nouvelle : il y existe des compagnies low costs avec lesquelles tu peux te rendre à Marrakech pour presque rien ! 😎 : perso je pars le 15 mars de Marseille à 14E HT le billet !!
Après, pour le désert, il y a aussi des possibilités.
Allez, un petit sourire ?
"Qui vous dira jamais ce qu'est le désert ? L'avez-vous entendu chanter ? Il chante réellement, quelques instants avant l'aurore, pour peu qu'on lui prête l'oreille."
http://desertsudmaroc.canalblog.com
bonjour,
"perso je pars le 15 mars de Marseille à 14E HT le billet !! "
14 euros hors taxes?!!! Ouawh! C'est possible ça?
Non, non, je ne perds pas le sourire, juste un petit pincement au coeur en repensant à cette belle histoire.
Mais... j'attends avec impatience les carnets qui ne devraient pas tarder à arriver, c'est la saison!
VF, c'est comme le marché : il y a la saison des montagnes, celle des déserts, celle des villes, des rizières, etc.
Et, avec la mondialisation, il y a (presque) de tout toute l'année!
J'attends les récoltes sahariennes, en espérant que 2008 soit un aussi bon cru que 2007 (de nombreux beaux carnets)!
Oui c'est possible, j'ai réservé sur le site d'atlas-blue, apres y a la taxe aeroport mais on s'en sort plutôt bien !
bonjour,
"perso je pars le 15 mars de Marseille à 14E HT le billet !! "
14 euros hors taxes?!!! Ouawh! C'est possible ça?
"Qui vous dira jamais ce qu'est le désert ? L'avez-vous entendu chanter ? Il chante réellement, quelques instants avant l'aurore, pour peu qu'on lui prête l'oreille."
http://desertsudmaroc.canalblog.com
fin de matinée...j'entends des touristes...il va falloir se lever...
oulala quelle vue en sortant sur le sueil de la porte! le soleil aveugle mais n'empeche pas de discerner le désert de pierres qui entoure la kasbah...comme c'est beau!!!!
je vais a l'étage du dessous, mohamed vient d'installer sa boutique, ses dessins au jus de citron et safran entourent la petite batisse....
sala marikum! beher? culchi mzien? hamdulila!!
un peu de thé? bismilah!!
le thé au réveil, avec un soleil aussi réchaffant, enivrant; quel bonheur.....on bronze la tête...
un peu de musique pour lier le tout et la journée démarre...
aujourd'hui je traverse, je vais chez Mehema; la soeur de jawad. elle a 35 ans, elle est divorcée et vir chez ses parents avec son fils de 18 ans......mehela; le coeur sur la main n'arrette jamais! elle travaille tout le temps!! le matin elle se leve et fait le pain pour toute la maisonnée, une dizaine de galettes rondes si bonnes!! puis elle prpare le tajine et fait la lessive...quand elle a du temps mort elle tisse des tapis...et bien; c'est du boulot!! chaque noeud se fait ) la main; c'est un boulot monstre!!
alors aujourd'hui elle me montre la lessive, aussi efficace qu'une machine à laver!! demain on fera des crêpes, hier du pain.....
apres un moment là bas; je vais faire mes courses, pour le tajine...chez le marchand de légumes, chez le boucher, et le boulanger..
là je retraversela rivi-re à dos de mulet...parfois on va faire un petit tour dans les jardins avec la mule; c'est plaisant....
j'arrive à la boutique; pose les sacs et vais chercher de l'eau à la fontaine....c'est parti pour le tajine, avec la musidque....
fin de journée le soleil décline...je pars avec jawad voir le coucher du soleil sur la falaise...moment privilégié avec cours particuliers de gimbri pâr un professionnel....le temps, qui est déjà stoppé, cesse de vivre et fait place à l"ternité...le soleil absorbe tout dans sa descente vers l'horizon, il attrappe ces derniers instants avec ses rayons encore lumineux....
une journée vient de passer.....
la fraicheur s'installe....
les étoiles brillent dans le ciel, la lune qui projette une allure féerique au paysage qui nous entoure jette un clin d'oeil au soleil qui se retire....elle prend le relais et; tout comme lui, nous protege....il est temps de rentrer.
dans la boutique les castagnettes résonnent, hassan nous a rejoint avec son banjo....au rythme du tajine les instruments s'accordent et discutent du dieu allah.....l'échange ne peut etre plus ouvert; chacun est invité.....
tard dans la nuit le corps décline....il est fatigué....il est temps d'aller se coucher.......
demain sera un autre jour....une balade dans les montagnes? un hammam chez mehela? une journée au soleil? pourquoi pas....ici, chauque jour est une étoile qui s'imprime quelque part dans le ciel....si on séloigne et on se sent perdu; il suffit de lever les yeux; ou bien tout simplement de regarder dans son coeur, et on retourne là bas...
je vous écris tout ca et c'est comme si j'y étais....mais non, je suis a tanger, 'j attends le bateau du retour...........mais je voulais, avant de partir, vous faire partager un peu du temps d'ait ben haddou...........................................
merci Natacha de nous avoir fait partager ces quelques heures, qui coulent paisiblement, petite tranche de vie que tu ramènes avec toi, en toi et que tu as la délicatesse de nous offrir.
Bon retour!
Il y a un an...
J'allais faire le même voyage...
Envie de le faire seule, avec une assistance la plus légère possible...
Les treks dans le désert étant devenus une véritable industrie, je cherchais des pistes ici ou ailleurs...
Nous nous sommes croisées... ailleurs. Tes avis ont été précieux...
Nos indignations et nos enthousiasmes étaient un peu similaires...
Je suis partie quelques semaines après toi, et en revenant j'ai raconté... ici, sur VF.
Le pseudo n'était pas le même, mais tu m'as reconnue... P'tit clin d'oeil de la vie...
Tu as écrit le 1er message à la suite de mon carnet de voyage...
Et quelques jours après tu as mis en ligne ton récit...
J'ai écrit le 1er message... d'autres ont suivi et je me souviens que ces réactions chaleureuses t'avaient touchée...
Un peu plus tard tu as choisi d'effacer ton histoire...
Ne demeurent en ligne que les réactions chaleureuses...
Je désire me rendre a Marrakech ou ailleur avec ma moitié et je suis déja allé au Cameroun par le biais d'une association et c'etais génial car pas le truc…
Je prépare un voyage de 7 jours à Marrakech pour participer à un camp sportif et je voyagerai uniquement avec un sac à dos cabine standard. J'aimerais…
Mi-mai: en arrivant (seul, donc, "petit taxi"?) à l'aéroport de Marrakech vers 16h30, est-il conseillé de prendre un taxi à l'aéroport (coût?) ou bien est-il…
Préambule:. Il ne s’agit pas ici de faire de la retape pour une nouvelle activité professionnelle mais de relater, sous la pression de Vfistes impatients…
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!!
Thanks
Hi everyone,
We're leaving in early October 2026 and planning to travel from the Aït Bougmez Valley ("Happy Valley") to Skoura/Ouarzazate via Demnate and the R307/N23 route.
Has anyone taken this road recently? Is it passable with a regular car (non-4x4), or is a 4x4 absolutely necessary? Are there any ongoing construction projects or degraded sections to be aware of?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
