Nous sommes deux copines et nous avons reserve 1 vol sec toulouse/marrakech/toulouse du 24/04 au 01/05, et location de voiture type FIAT PALIO, le reste nous voulons aviser sur place, car on recherche de l'authenticité et etre loin des groupes de touristes... C'est la 3eme fois que l'on pars au Maroc et on revait de faire le Sud Marocain en individuel.
Nous avons tout de meme elaborer un circuit avec l'aide d'un celebre guide trés futé (pas de marque!!) et nous voudriions avoir des avis sur notre programme:
1er jour: arrivee marrakech a 12h
2eme jour: Marrakech-Ouarzazate -Skoura (nuit a Skoura a l'auberge Benmoro)
3eme jour: Skoura-tinghir-Merzouga(nuit an bivouac dans le desert loin des auberges, toutes propositions est la bienvenue 🙂) via vallee du dades, gorge du todra, et du ziz
4eme jour: Merzouga-Zagora-M'hamid (est c'est ici que se trouve notre hesitation, avons nous le temps, car le but ce n'est pas de se manger de la voiture pendant notre séjour, mais d'aller au contact des gens et des paysages magnifique)
5eme jour : M'hamid-Ouarzazate et nuit aux alentours
6eme: ouarzazate-marrakech
7eme jour: visite marrakech
8eme jour decollage 6h
Voila notre petit programme, j'espere avoir des idees nouvelles de votre part, n'hesiter pas sutout, on recherche authenticite, rencontre et emerveillement..
Bonjour,
Pour vous dire, Marrakech Skoura c'est environ 5 h en voiture !!!!!!!!
Skoura Merzouga la journée si vous vous arrtée un peu à Tinerhir
Merzouga Zagora M'hamid la journée
M'Hamid Ouarzazate une bonne demie-journée
Personnelement je ferais l'impasse sur Merzouga le massif de dunes est devnus trop tourisitque !!!!Allez plutôt sur M'hamid c'est moins loin !!!! mais pour deux filles seules bonjoour le harcelement des rabateurs et faux guide sur M'Hamid c'est épouventable. Un petit conseil réervé un bivouac en passant par un hôtel avant d'arrivée ça vous évitrera les rabateurs et vous ne serez pas ennuyées !!!
Bon séjour
Raymond
2eme jour: Marrakech-Ouarzazate -Skoura (nuit a Skoura a l'auberge Benmoro)
>>>>> 4 h de route, possibilité de visiter Ait Benhaddou, au passage.
auberge famille benmoro, bonne adresse, mais auberge Talout, super, et gite Slimani, excellente adresse!!
3eme jour: Skoura-tinghir-Merzouga(nuit an bivouac dans le desert loin des auberges, toutes propositions est la bienvenue 🙂) via vallee du dades, gorge du todra, et du ziz
>>>>>> pas le temps de faire les gorges, ni todghra, ni Ziz il faut etre vers 16 h à Merzouga pour embarquer pour les bivouacs, toutes les auberges ont cette option,
4eme jour: Merzouga-Zagora-M'hamid (est c'est ici que se trouve notre hesitation, avons nous le temps, car le but ce n'est pas de se manger de la voiture pendant notre séjour, mais d'aller au contact des gens et des paysages magnifique)
>>>>> long et inutile, après Merzouga, c'est la déception, l'erg Chegaga est à perpete, les sollicitations sont infernales, il vaut mieux s'arrèter tranquille à Tazzarine ou N'Kob, villes que les touristes évitent à tort !! le
5eme jour : M'hamid-Ouarzazate et nuit aux alentours,
>>>>> pourquoi pas nuit vers Ait Benhaddou, Rien à voir à Ozz !!
6eme: ouarzazate-marrakech
>>>> Belles photos, et aller retour sur Télouet, possible
7eme jour: visite marrakech
Perdez vous dans la médina, au dela des itinéraires à touristes !!!
Merci beaucoup pour vos informations qui me semblent tres utiles, en gros vaut mieux dormir a Merzouga et délaisser M'hamid, et donc en contre partie faire une halte a tinghir pour prendre le temps de visiter les gorges du toghra, ou comme vous me le proposer nuit a Nkob? vous en pensez quoi?
Car en faite pour nous les incontournables sont : les gorges du Toghra, la source bleue de Meskin, Merzouga et les petites villes comme tazarine ....
En tant cas merci beaucoup pour votre avis, c'est tres important car on est deux filles nos amis nous disent que ca va etre l'enfer!
Mais je suis sure du contraire.
A bientot et merci beaucoup
PS/ ensez que l'on doit reserver nos nuits avant de partir ? au moins pour le bivouac peut etre, vous auriez pas des bonnes adresses?
tes "incontournables" sont discutables !
La source bleue, ne mérite meme pas un crochet en passant devant !! surtout avec les péages !
Les gorges du Todghra, pourquoi pas, crochet d'une heure et demi, quand on passe à Tinghir, et quelques auberges sympa sur la route des gorges ('la vallée', camping 'Atlas')
Mais comme dans ton préambule, tu parlais d'authenticité et de fuite devant les lieux à groupes de touristes, ca correspond mal !
En authenticité, tu peux aisément remplacer Tinghir par Goulmima, avec sa belle palmeraie, et sa kasbah en cours de réhabilitation. (auberge 'palmiers', et une autre bonne maison d'hotes).
**** ca va etre l'enfer! ****
Cela dépendra uniquement de votre comportement, (et de vos aspirations!)
Si vous voulez éviter l'enfer, soyez ferme devant les sollicitations non désirées, et ne laissez vos coordonnées, et vos projets, que si vous souhaitez vraiment etre recontactées et suivies à la trace, sinon silence radio ! ne jamais donner à penser que vous ne vous en sortiriez pas sans guide, et éviter les sacrosaintes invitations à boire un thé (plan vente de tapis ou drague assuré)
Totalement inutile, (à part la première nuit à Marrakech) de faire la moindre réservation, un coup de téléphone le matin pour le soir est largement suffisant ! l'offre d'hébergements est importante.
Pour Merzouga, j'ai un petit faible pour l'auberge du Sud, et pour les dunes d'or, elles sont un peu plus à l'écart.
La Source Bleue de Meski est une piscine au sein d'un grand camping.
L'eau n'est pas bleue... le camping est touristique, ce n'est pas vraiment un incontournable :)
je sais pas si c'est bien de laissé tombé m'hamid apparement à merzouga y a plein plein de touriste et donc de rabateur beaucoup plus à m'hamid..y a qu'à voir le notre de maison d'hote et tu te rend compte ou y a du monde.
c'est clair que pour voir les dunes à m'hamid faut allé à l'erg chegaga qui est à 1h30 de voiture de m'hamid mais sa en vaut la peine.
Nous sommes deux copines et nous avons reserve 1 vol sec toulouse/marrakech/toulouse du 24/04 au 01/05, et location de voiture type FIAT PALIO, le reste nous voulons aviser sur place, car on recherche de l'authenticité et etre loin des groupes de touristes... C'est la 3eme fois que l'on pars au Maroc et on revait de faire le Sud Marocain en individuel.
Nous avons tout de meme elaborer un circuit avec l'aide d'un celebre guide trés futé (pas de marque!!) et nous voudriions avoir des avis sur notre programme:
1er jour: arrivee marrakech a 12h
2eme jour: Marrakech-Ouarzazate -Skoura (nuit a Skoura a l'auberge Benmoro)
3eme jour: Skoura-tinghir-Merzouga(nuit an bivouac dans le desert loin des auberges, toutes propositions est la bienvenue 🙂) via vallee du dades, gorge du todra, et du ziz
4eme jour: Merzouga-Zagora-M'hamid (est c'est ici que se trouve notre hesitation, avons nous le temps, car le but ce n'est pas de se manger de la voiture pendant notre séjour, mais d'aller au contact des gens et des paysages magnifique)
5eme jour : M'hamid-Ouarzazate et nuit aux alentours
6eme: ouarzazate-marrakech
7eme jour: visite marrakech
8eme jour decollage 6h
Voila notre petit programme, j'espere avoir des idees nouvelles de votre part, n'hesiter pas sutout, on recherche authenticite, rencontre et emerveillement..
Merci d'avance
salam, avant sorry c est mon francais et mauvais danke.
voila mon avis sur votre programme:
2 jour : c est ok vous avez entre marrakech et sakoura entre 5 et 7 h via tizi nticka noubler pas un bonne the ala monte .mais sur ta route vers ourzazat a gouche Ait ben hadoo village bon endroit avisiter.
3jour: paysage, kasbah et culteur sur la rout de 1000 kasbah fait attation au chaufeur de taxi, il s arrete toujour moitee dans laroute aussi au enfants qui sort des ecouls, a visiter : gorge de dads et toudra .
4 jour : un tres longe et fatigant trajit dans une journee avec une 4x4 c est facil te coup derect ver zagora via les piste de desert mais un palio il te faut marzouga, arrisani, alnif, tazarin, zagora, mhamiidlghizlan = une bonne journne de route ( personelment je fait la traverser entre les dunes de mahamiid et dunes de marzouga dans 2 jour relax et contact avec les gens soit par route ou par piste) tout facons c est une bonne aventeur.
5 et 6 jour : perfect
voila mon point d avie sur ton programme de voyage
bonne voyage et mahasalama
un bon plan pour une étape sympa dans un authentique ksour sur la route de Zagora, à 4km de Agdz: chez yacob (www.chezyacob.com) Une maison typique dans un endroit superbe, accueil sympa du patron et bonne bouffe. Bon voyage!
fait attention...j'ai le même problème que toi. moi c'est la 2ème fois que je vais allé au maroc en novembre. et là il me propose tous des hotels des excursions...et les prix son très très variable.
fait ton programme comme toi tu le veux mais ne tiens pas trop compte se que te dise les marocain qui sont sur le forum parsque c'est des rabateur qui sont que intéresser par ton porte monnaie.
j'ai fait comme toi j'ai mis un message ici et résultat je recois plein de message privé ou on me propose tel ou tel chose. regarde dans les guides lonly planet routard y a toutes les adresse qu'il faut.
si tu veux allé voir le parcour qu'on va faire tu peux regarder notre blog.
* **** ne tiens pas trop compte se que te dise les marocain qui sont sur le forum parsque c'est des rabateur qui sont que intéresser par ton porte monnaie.
j'ai fait comme toi j'ai mis un message ici et résultat je recois plein de message privé ou on me propose tel ou tel chose. *****
C'est malheureusement la plaie du forum (mais surtout des autres furums de voyage, à modération inéxistante, certains les encouragent, puisque leur nombre minime de messages augmente grace aux rabatteurs !!)) !!!
Les rabatteurs de trottoirs, déja pénibles, se mettent aux cybers ! et draguent sur tous les forums, avec, en plus, des informations fausses, alarmistes sur l'état des routes, par exemple, et souvent hors sujet !!!
Il n'est pas interdit de signaler les spams de rabatteurs en MP aux administrateurs, c'est une opération de salubrité, si l'on ne veut pas que VF devienne vide ou sans intérét, comme les principaux concurrents.
Je vous transmet une ébauche de notre circuit au Maroc pour le mois prochain. Apportez-y des modifications, des conseils, vos connaissances et expériences.…
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Nous avons trois jours pour aller de Fès à Marrakech.
Nous aimerions passer une nuit dans le désert à Merzouga.
Pensez-vous qu'en 3 jours nous aurons le temps de profiter un minimum des lieux?
Nous nous sommes renseignés auprès de différentes agences qui proposent toutes plus ou moins la même chose et nous assurent quelques visites sur la route, avec bien sûr une ballade en dromadaire et 1 nuit dans le désert.
Pensez-vous qu'en 3 jours nous aurons réellement le temps d’apprécier les lieux traversés et que les visites ne se feront pas au pas de course?
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Connaissez vous l'adresse d'une distillerie de fleurs de roses ds la vallée des roses / kelaa M Gouna. Une distillerie traditionnelle, pas uniquement la boutique à touristes.
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!