Organisation pour visite du parc Pendjari au Bénin
by Peggysh
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour je pars au bénin fin octobre 10 jours ( 1e fois en Afrique ) et je voudrais visite le parc de la pendjari
Je souhaite prendre le bus de cotonou jusqu’a Nati ( 1jour) mais ensuite je ne sais pas ! Dormir à nati et trouver un guide sur place ou aller à tanguieta ? Faut il réserve l’hotel pour nati au préalable ou directement à l’arrivée ? Dormir au parc de la pendjari ou une seule journée de visite suffit ?
Je ne sais pas trop merci de m’éclaire
Amicalement peggy
Aller a nati c est bon.
Tous les hotels mettent en relation avec des guides.
On negocie avec eux le prix et on paye nos nuits et repas sur place.
Je suis allee plusieurs fois en penjari. Avrc le guide noel nabogou a chaque fois.
Coordonnees sur sa page facebk.
Il est excellent et hyper sympa.
A nati je loge chez Dany de "ma case au benin" Coordonnees sur mon blog afrique ci dessous.
Deux jours une nuit c est bien. Une journee dommage car pas d aube ds la reserve.
A nati : Mieux vaut reserver l hotel. Et soit ils. Viennent te chercher a la gare routiete soit tu ptends des zems.
Deux jours une nuit c est bien. Une journee dommage car pas d aube ds la reserve.
A nati : Mieux vaut reserver l hotel. Et soit ils. Viennent te chercher a la gare routiete soit tu ptends des zems.
Si si une nuit ds le parc.
Pour y etre aux aurores du jour 2.
Deux jours tu es a peu ores sure de voir un max d animaux.
Les lions parfois ce n est que le Deuxieme jour. Le hasard.
Un jour a mon point de vue c est trop juste.
Le prix de l entree quand j y suis allee c etait forfaitaire un jour ou plus. Possible que ca ait change recemment.
Si tu as un peu de temps essaie de passer une journee en pays somba. Les villages de tatas sont somptueux.
Dommage de repartir sans y etre allee. Pas besoin de guides. On y va en mototaxis. Les zems. On prend une visite guidee avec ecobenin sur place. Dejeuner chez Parfait .... Super journee. Mais noel peut aussi vous y accompagner.
Le prix de l entree quand j y suis allee c etait forfaitaire un jour ou plus. Possible que ca ait change recemment.
Si tu as un peu de temps essaie de passer une journee en pays somba. Les villages de tatas sont somptueux.
Dommage de repartir sans y etre allee. Pas besoin de guides. On y va en mototaxis. Les zems. On prend une visite guidee avec ecobenin sur place. Dejeuner chez Parfait .... Super journee. Mais noel peut aussi vous y accompagner.
ok Peggy pas de souci.
🙂
Bonsoir, moi j'ai visité le parc Pendjari avec Iliass contact 0022966180564 par whatsapp, c'est gratuit pour vous et pas trop cher pour lui.
Il est sur Nati, mais vous pouvez aussi dormir à Tanguieta. C'est une heure de moins de trajet pour rejoindre le parc.
Parce tout a changé depuis la reprise par Afrikan park, vous payez l'entrée 10000 FCFA pour 24h.
Donc nous sommes partis le matin, nous nous sommes baignés aux chutes de Tanongou, sur la route et puis nous sommes entrés dans le parc.
Après avoir déposé nos affaires, (vous choisissez le lodge ou l'hôtel), nous sommes partis voir les animaux, et là on peut dire que Iliass a du flair pour les trouver.
Retour à l'hôtel vers 18h, obligatoire. Vous mangez à l'hôtel ou avec les victuailles que vous avez emportées, Iliass vous expliquera tout, et dodo.
Le lendemain matin, un autre circuit dans le parc, et on sort à l'heure où on est entré la veille. Et vous voyez les tatas en soirée ou le lendemain.
En fait on ne se rend pas bien compte des distances. Nati est à une heure de Tanguieta, et il faut encore une bonne heure pour entrer dans le parc de Tanguieta.
Et le bus de Cotonou vous emmène jusqu'à Tanguieta, donc à voir.
Parlez en à Iliass, il est habitué et s'adapte à vos demandes. Il nous avait accueillis à la descente du bus à Tanguieta, réservés la chambre à Tanguieta et dans le parc, nous avait guidés pour les courses...
A votre disposition pour tous renseignements
Je confirme. Noël est un très bon guide, particulièrement pour le parc. Il commence à être bien connu, donc il vaut mieux le "réserver" assez tôt.
Les Tata et sa région sont vraiment à faire.
très tôt le matin. mais pas d'inquiétudes : on trouve toujours des zems pour vous emmener à la gare routière. demande à Dany si tu es à Natitingou.
sans rapport : si tu as un peu de temps, le marché de Nati vaut une balade, et il y a aussi un musée qui a souvent des expos intéressantes. (c'est là que j'ai appris le système des travaux forcés en cours dans nos belles colonies jusqu' après guerre, j’ignorais totalement).
sans rapport : si tu as un peu de temps, le marché de Nati vaut une balade, et il y a aussi un musée qui a souvent des expos intéressantes. (c'est là que j'ai appris le système des travaux forcés en cours dans nos belles colonies jusqu' après guerre, j’ignorais totalement).
Les chutes de Tanongou sont à mi chemin entre Tanguieta et le parc Pendjari.
Dans le parc, l'hôtel a des chambres ou des cases (bungalows) à des prix différents à partir de 15000 FCFA, les tentes du lodge, c'est plus cher. Le lodge a été repris par Afrikan park .
Va voir sur le site pendjari.net.
A Tanguieta, j'ai dormi au Baobab, à la sortie de la ville en allant vers le Burkina, mais il y a d'autres hôtels. Je ne connais pas tes attentes et ton budget, et le temps dont tu disposes.
Des habitations sombas, il y en a aussi vers Tanguieta.
Tout çà il faut voir avec Iliass, ou le guide que tu choisiras, c'est lui qui s'adapte.
Et tu peux revenir avec lui sur Nati, éventuellement.
D’accord en fin de compte il y’a beaucoup à faire au nord
Je ne savais pas non plus tu l’apprends Quelque chose !
Nanati « j’aimerai rester 4jours la bas et le budget vu que j’en connais pas les prix locaux j’ai pas de notion mais pas trop chère non plus »
Mon idéal c’est 1 jour de voyage cotonou nati ou tanguieta je sais pas lol 2 jour cascade matin parc après midi dormir au parc et 3ème jour parc et les Tata somba sur le retour et j’airao Aimer un bus de nuit vers cotonou mais je sais pas si ça se fait ça ?
Nanati « j’aimerai rester 4jours la bas et le budget vu que j’en connais pas les prix locaux j’ai pas de notion mais pas trop chère non plus »
Mon idéal c’est 1 jour de voyage cotonou nati ou tanguieta je sais pas lol 2 jour cascade matin parc après midi dormir au parc et 3ème jour parc et les Tata somba sur le retour et j’airao Aimer un bus de nuit vers cotonou mais je sais pas si ça se fait ça ?
Je plaide pour natitingou
Quand on va dans le coin des tatas somba on passe sur les chutes de Kota. C est tres joli on se baigne. Moment sympa.
Tu peux aussi aller avec des zems dans des villages (peulhs ou d autres ethnies). Avec Noel aussi.
Dany nous emmene souvent diner ds des endroits sympa de nati.
Non tu ne trouveras pas de bus de nuit, et de taxi non plus. On ne circule pas la nuit. Et le parc c'est fatigant.
Tu peux voir un tata vers Tanguieta en sortant du parc, et dormir à Tanguieta pour reprendre le bus le lendemain pour Cotonou.
Mais c'est un programme serré. Dis toi bien que 10 h de bus, c'est épuisant. Donc je pense que tu es obligé de zapper Nati, ou le parc...
Pour les prix, c'est environ 9000 le bus aller simple Cotonou Tanguieta, 8000 la chambre à Tanguieta, je te dis en message privé si tu veux ce que j'ai payé pour le 4x4 pour le parc.
Pour manger entre 1 euro dans la rue et 5 euros au resto, 10 euros dans le parc, ou tu emportes tout. Je t'ai dit plus haut le prix des chambres dans le parc.
Parce que tu dis 4 jours là bas, mais tu as déjà 2 jours de trajet Cotonou le nord.
Tu ne pourras pas tout caser en trois jours. Nanati a raison.
Tu restes cimbien de temps au Benin ?
La premiere fois que je suis allee au Benin, je suis montee a Natitingou poyrr aller dans les villages sombas et ne suis pas allee en Penjari. Il faut choisir en termes de temps et aussi en termes de budget c est sur.
La premiere fois que je suis allee au Benin, je suis montee a Natitingou poyrr aller dans les villages sombas et ne suis pas allee en Penjari. Il faut choisir en termes de temps et aussi en termes de budget c est sur.
Merci vous m’aidez vraiment !
On arrive le 22 octobre et retour à Paris le 4 novembre au soir j’arrives le 5 a paris Du coup c’est vrai que c’est serré Je veux faire porto Novo 1jr Ouidah 1 jr Grand popo 1jr Abomey 1 ou 2 jours ( mon papa est originaire de cette ville ma maman est blanche ) Cotonou Après dite moi les vrais lieux d’intérêt moi j’ai bien cherché sur le net
On arrive le 22 octobre et retour à Paris le 4 novembre au soir j’arrives le 5 a paris Du coup c’est vrai que c’est serré Je veux faire porto Novo 1jr Ouidah 1 jr Grand popo 1jr Abomey 1 ou 2 jours ( mon papa est originaire de cette ville ma maman est blanche ) Cotonou Après dite moi les vrais lieux d’intérêt moi j’ai bien cherché sur le net
Ok. Tu as donc le temps
Cotonou 1 jour
Porto Novo 1 jour
Ensuite tu pars vers
Ouidah 1 jour
Grand popo 1 jour
De grand popo tu pars sur Abomey. Le chemin en zem est super 1 jour
Abomey 2 jours
Tu montes ds le nord depuis Abomey 1 jour
Nati ou tanguieta soir et nuit
Depart pour la penjari 2 jours
Retour a Nati le soir du deuxieme jour
Pays somba er chutes du kota 1 jour
Visite de nati 1 jours
Retour sur cotonou 1 jour
On est ds le timing je crois Tu peux zapper la visite de nati ca te fait gagner un jour sur ce "programne"
On est ds le timing je crois Tu peux zapper la visite de nati ca te fait gagner un jour sur ce "programne"
oui le bus cotonou nati passe par abomey. je l'ai pris une fois à Abomey. (gare routière entre abomey et bohicon)
tu changes d'hébergement chaque soir sauf les premiers jours : porto novo se fait en une journée depuis Cotonou. taxibrousse matin et soir.
mes hébergements au Bénin afriqueparciafriqueparla.blog4ever.com/...en-af...
ce sont des hebergements petits budgets propres et sympa.
les repas : je mange beaucoup en "street food", les béninois sont les rois 😉 comme dis nanati, ce n'est pas cher du tout. les petits dej dans les guitounes café au lait /pain/omelette c'est 300 cfa (400 maintenant ? pas sur) , les assiettes des maquis c'est entre 500 et 1000 selon ce que tu choisis, en petits restaus le soir tu manges pour 2000-3000, on achète les fruits sur les marchés ou aux vendeuses dans la rue.
1000 f'rancs cfa = 1,50 euros
super d'avoir un papa béninois : j'ai vraiment adoré& ce pays, les gens y sont charmants, gentils et plein d'humour.
tu changes d'hébergement chaque soir sauf les premiers jours : porto novo se fait en une journée depuis Cotonou. taxibrousse matin et soir.
mes hébergements au Bénin afriqueparciafriqueparla.blog4ever.com/...en-af...
ce sont des hebergements petits budgets propres et sympa.
les repas : je mange beaucoup en "street food", les béninois sont les rois 😉 comme dis nanati, ce n'est pas cher du tout. les petits dej dans les guitounes café au lait /pain/omelette c'est 300 cfa (400 maintenant ? pas sur) , les assiettes des maquis c'est entre 500 et 1000 selon ce que tu choisis, en petits restaus le soir tu manges pour 2000-3000, on achète les fruits sur les marchés ou aux vendeuses dans la rue.
1000 f'rancs cfa = 1,50 euros
super d'avoir un papa béninois : j'ai vraiment adoré& ce pays, les gens y sont charmants, gentils et plein d'humour.
Besoin de conseils
J’ai eu noël le guide du coup niveau prix:
Tata Somba 2000cfa
Parc entrée 10000
4*4 entrée 1000
Cascade 1000
Lodge parc 27000 ( j’ai compter un lit sup car nous sommes 3)
Bus nati cotonou aller retour 16000 ( 8000 si on réserve sinon 8500 aller )
Les services du guide noël 62000
2 nuit chez Dany ??
Ça fait 119000cfa ( 181e ) par personne sans compter les 2 nuits chez Dany et l’eau les repas
Vous trouvez ça bien?
Vous trouvez ça bien?
Oui c est les prix.
Tres corrects.
C est un budget pour la penjari certes mais compare aux prix des parcs de l afrique de l est y a pas photo.
Dany a une case triple.
Ca doit etre dans les 12000 pour les 3. A verifier.
Moi j'ai un doute sur le prix du 4x4 ce que tu nommes les services du guide Noêl, ou alors c'est le prix pour une journée et sans carburant.
pour Noël j'ai payé 75000/personne sur la base deux personnes, pour les deux jours. sur la base de trois personnes, il a fait un petit rabais. tu trouves cela cher ou non ? moi pas.
j'y suis allée plusieurs fois, et le même prix. ma fille y est allée aussi, et d'autres amis.
en plus bien sur on paye l'entrée dans le parc, l’hébergement et l'alimentation.
C'est çà, tu as donc payé 60000 le 4x4 et 15000 de carburant par jour pour 2. C'est le prix de tous les guides, ils sont obligés de s'aligner. Donc 62000, çà m'étonne.
En fait tu comptes le prix par personne.
Mais le 4x4 est à 60000 par jour que tu sois 2,3 ou 4, et le carburant est à 30000 pour les 2 jours.
Je ne trouve pas çà cher, c'est le prix de tous les guides dans le parc.
Oui je ne.me suis pas posee la question en detail. Le prix m "ayant paru tres correct.
Peut etre Noel a t il consenti un petit rabais. L essence ma foi c est le meme prix qu on soit seul deux ou trois.
Le differentiel peut s entendre ainsi.
Le differentiel peut s entendre ainsi.
Bien sûr que c'est correct, comparé à la Tanzanie...
Et le véhicule souffre et doit passer au garage à chaque retour du parc, d'où des frais.
Maintenant, le prix du 4x4 est imposé par jour, et le chauffeur risque gros, s'il déroge à la règle.
En fait l'entrée du parc est à 3000. Pour Peggy, Noël lui a dit 1000, mais il a rajouté 2000 sur la location du 4x4.
C'est pour çà que je dis que 62000 c'est par jour et pas pour les 2 jours, et sans compter le carburant.
C'est bien qu'elle soit informée quand même.
J'ai vu combien de gens arrivés à Nati et renoncer au parc parce qu'ils avaient été mal renseignés et que c'était trop cher.
Apres je pense qu il faut laisser a chaque guide le soin de ses negociations avec ses clients.
Le Benin n est pas un etat socialiste avec prix imposes par le comite central.
Noel est quelqu un de responsable qui me semble bien mener sa barque.
Bien sûr, mais il y a d'autres guides autant compétents que lui, et aux mêmes prix.
Chacun conseille le guide avec qui il a voyagé s'il en est content.
Le rabais qu'il semble t'avoir consenti, c'est l'entrée du parc pour le véhicule à 3000.
Maintenant, mon dromadaire m'attend, je pars pour un autre voyage, et le réseau dans le désert ??? c'est pas sûr
Bons voyages à tous et à bientôt sur le forum.
Hello ! j'ai du mal à suivre avec tous ces chiffres ! Moi, Noël m'annonce 185000 (soit 92500 par personne ) + entrée 10000 + hôtel selon notre choix
En avril 2018 Cambrousse annonçait 75000 par personne pr 2 jours (ce qu'on voudrait)
Heu... qu'est-ce qui était compris dans ce montant ? Je m'y perds...
Vu que j y suis allee plusieurs fois j ai peut etre eu un "prix d ami" je.ne peux pas savoir je n ai pas negocie.
D autre part depuis que j y suis allee il y a peut etre eu une augmentation. ?
Bonsoir, demandez à un autre guide, le mien par exemple, Iliass au 0022966180564, ou https://safaripendjari.com, vous avez tous les prix, et vous comparez.
Et une fois sur place, votre hôtel vous dira que son guide est le meilleur. C'est la loi de la concurrence !!!
Moi je vous dis que le prix annoncé est toujours PAR VOITURE, + le carburant, sinon c'est trop.
Vous êtes combien ?
Quoiqu'on en dise sur ce forum, les prix sont fixes pour tous les guides. Mais le guide peut vous faire un prix sur l'entrée de son véhicule.
A votre disposition pour tous renseignements récents...
Merci pour l'info ! j'ai écrit à Ilias, en espérant une réponse... car les autres guides contactés n'ont pour l'instant pas répondu... Bon, il parle de 92 € la journée (nous sommes 2), j'espère que ce n'est pas par personne...😕 mais bien par véhicule
Je pensais qu'on pouvait camper dans le parc, mais je suis peut-être mal (trop !... ) informée.
On cherche le moins cher sur place, et on pensait partir de Tanguieta.
Attendons la suite, merci encore
Sylvie
Bonsoir, dans le parc il y a peu de connexion sauf le soir à l'hôtel.
Voyez avec le guide pour camper, et s'il a ou si vous avez le matériel il y a plein d'animaux sauvages quand même.
C'est sûr que de partir de Tanguieta, çà vous fait gagner une route de route le matin tôt, et Iliass vous indiquera pour les courses à emporter. Lui-même il dort souvent là bas.
Si vous venez en bus de Cotonou, il va jusqu'à Tanguieta.
Vous pouvez appeler Iliass par What's App sur le même numéro. C'est plus facile que par mail pour la connexion.
J'ai pu avoir les infos ! Je les transmets, pour ceux que ça intéresse : Ilias propose 160000 pour 2 et pour 2 jours, tout compris (y compris chutes de Tanougou) - sur son site, 60000 par jour, c'est sans le carburant
L'hôtel, c'est 30000 (chambre basique, sans vue sur la savane ! sinon, c'est 50000... - et le lodge... je n'en parle même pas !) A moins qu'il y ait un autre plan ?... J'ai lu qu'il y a des campings mais on n'a pas de matériel
Les prix indiqués dans le Petit Futé - en particulier le Lodge - n'ont rien à voir avec ce que m'a envoyé Ilias ! et les critiques sont calamiteuses concernant l'hôtel campement (le moins cher dans le guide)... On s'y perd car les hébergements portent tous plus ou moins le même nom !
Bon, pas le choix, ce sera le moins cher pour nous - et après tout, on n'y dort qu'une nuit. Les lodges, j'en ai vu au Kenya (on y allait pour trouver une boisson fraîche dans les réserves, on avait pu camper dans des lieux réservés), c'est pour se donner l'illusion d'être un aventurier, avec tout le confort ! Mais pour ceux qui n'ont jamais essayé, et qui veulent se faire plaisir, c'est sympa une fois
Ilias semble vouloir partir de Nati... ça me semblait effectivement plus judicieux de partir de Tanguieta, peut-être est-il sur Nati... ?!
Merci pour les précisions, Na...nati ! 😉
L'hôtel, c'est 30000 (chambre basique, sans vue sur la savane ! sinon, c'est 50000... - et le lodge... je n'en parle même pas !) A moins qu'il y ait un autre plan ?... J'ai lu qu'il y a des campings mais on n'a pas de matériel
Les prix indiqués dans le Petit Futé - en particulier le Lodge - n'ont rien à voir avec ce que m'a envoyé Ilias ! et les critiques sont calamiteuses concernant l'hôtel campement (le moins cher dans le guide)... On s'y perd car les hébergements portent tous plus ou moins le même nom !
Bon, pas le choix, ce sera le moins cher pour nous - et après tout, on n'y dort qu'une nuit. Les lodges, j'en ai vu au Kenya (on y allait pour trouver une boisson fraîche dans les réserves, on avait pu camper dans des lieux réservés), c'est pour se donner l'illusion d'être un aventurier, avec tout le confort ! Mais pour ceux qui n'ont jamais essayé, et qui veulent se faire plaisir, c'est sympa une fois
Ilias semble vouloir partir de Nati... ça me semblait effectivement plus judicieux de partir de Tanguieta, peut-être est-il sur Nati... ?!
Merci pour les précisions, Na...nati ! 😉
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I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Thanks,
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing: 23/07: Arrival in Santiago 24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days) 30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days) 05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days) 11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days) 15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike? What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Thanks,
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Hi
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
Hi there,
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
Hi there,
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Hello,
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
Hi,
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
Hi everyone,
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
Hello,
We’re planning a trip to São Vicente and Santo Antão in January.
We’re a couple (ages 51 and 57).
My husband is really into hiking. As for me, I’m not at my best right now—I’ve just recovered from a long illness and am still on medication that exhausts me and causes a lot of pain, so I won’t be able to keep up with very "physical" hikes.
That said, I still enjoy walking in nature.
We’re looking for advice on where we could stay. A place where my husband can go hiking while I take shorter walks. But also somewhere I can relax in nature, maybe go for a swim if possible, and enjoy local life—markets, music, etc.
Boat trips would be a great bonus for us.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Virginie





