Hello,
In mid-November, we’ll be in Mindelo and Santo Antão.
We’ve booked transportation with Kapverden Tours.
One trip is from Porto Novo to Ponta do Sol, including the hike from Corda to Coculi.
What’s the trail like?
Then we’ll be staying in Ponta do Sol,
Here’s what we’re planning:
A hike to Fontainhas—what’s the best direction, considering we’re not great with climbs? No problem with flat terrain or descents.
Take an aluguer to Ribeira Grande and continue along the coastal road.
With the agency:
An excursion to Cruzinha with a short walk.
Return to Porto Novo via the path from Cova to… I’m not sure where yet, to pick up the car for Porto Novo, since we’ll be taking the ferry that evening.
We’ll have a guide for this hike.
We’d love to spend a day in Tarrafal, but getting back requires a boat or taxi, and it’s really expensive!
We’re a couple, 78 and 76 years old.
What do you think of this itinerary?
We’d like to spend the day in Terrafal, but you have to return by boat or taxi and it’s really expensive!
It’s Tarrafal de Monte Trigo in Santo Antão (just so you know, there are 3 Tarrafals in Cape Verde).
No, it’s not expensive at all (6 €). At least 2 shared taxis (Aluguer) leave Tarrafal for Porto Novo in the morning, around 6 or 7 AM—check with your accommodation. It’s best to take the first one, but they all arrive in Porto Novo in time for the boats.
For accommodation, I recommend Mar Tranquilidad at the entrance of the village when you arrive. It has a lovely terrace by the sea for dinner, and happy hour is included at 6 PM! The rooms are decent and it’s very peaceful.
Really not a good idea unless you rent a vehicle—and even then. You’ll spend the whole day in transit. Luckily, the last stretch is now paved, but there are still 2 or 3 km of sand along the beach. Tarrafal is worth at least 2 nights on-site.
We have a hike planned to Fontainhas. Which direction should we take, considering we’re not great with climbs? No problem with flat terrain or descents.
Since Fontainhas is closer to Ponta do Sol than to Cruzinha, it makes sense to start from Ponta do Sol, but either way, there’s climbing and descending—and it climbs a lot!
We did the coastal hike coming from Cruzinha...
Before reaching Ponta do Sol, there’s a section of drivable track, so I suggest taking a taxi from Ponta do Sol to cover that part (which isn’t very interesting anyway) and then continuing on foot to Fontainhas. (We saw people taking a taxi for the final stretch from Ponta do Sol.)
The transport will pick us up in Ponta do Sol to go to Cova, and we’ll walk down into the Paul Valley, covering 5 km with a guide. Then we’ll take the transport that comes back to pick us up.
We can’t go to Xoxo—there’s no easy hiking trail for us without steep climbs.
We’ll take *aluguers* from Ponta do Sol to Paul, Sinagoga, or Ribeira Grande.
Thanks
It's the transport that picks us up at Ponta do Sol to go to Cova, and we'll walk down into the Paul Valley, for 5 km with a guide
Oh, okay... but you don’t need a guide—there’s only one path down into the Paul Valley from the Cova crater. That said, it’s a steep descent, so take care of your knees! 😏
PS: I made a little mix-up above:
From Corda to Coculi, it’s not flat—there are actually few flat spots on Santo Antão, except for a stretch of paved road along the ridge between the Cova crater and Pico da Cruz.
Between Corda and Coculi, it’s all downhill, just like from the Cova crater to the Paul Valley. The path is in good condition, partly paved, but there’s a 900 m negative elevation change over about 5 km, so an average slope of 18%! Watch your knees if you don’t hike often!!
Same type of descent as from the Cova crater to the Paul Valley.
At SaL (I need to find the name again), the place was pretty cool—a pirate ship by the beach—but I don’t think you’re going to that island.
Otherwise, the restaurant at L'Aldea Panorâmica in Paul Valley was nice.
There are others in Mindelo too, but I need to look up the names of those spots.
Overall, you eat a lot of fish there.
Hello!
We did the island crossing (backpacking) in November–December 2022 (3 weeks). We hiked the Corda–Coculi trail—it’s a 2-hour downhill walk (800m). The landscapes are stunning if the mist isn’t around!!! You can stay with Maria and Marissa in Corda. She runs the little grocery store. Very warm welcome. Marissa speaks French—she teaches French, English, and typing at the school.
We also did the short hike from Ponto do Sol to Fontainhas—1 hour along the coast. You can have lunch at the café in Fontainhas at Chouck’s. If you want to stay overnight, a neighbor has a house clinging to the cliff, 30m from the café. Ask the café owner. The most beautiful hike would be from Fontainhas to Cruzinha, but that’s 5 hours of walking!!!
As for Tarrafal, we were a bit disappointed. It lacks charm, but there’s a cheap bus that goes to Porto Novo every morning. We preferred Monte Trigo—a small fishing village with a great spot to relax at Osvaldo’s. Super welcoming, and the food and rooms are tastefully decorated. Plus, Monte Trigo’s beach is much safer (no big waves) than Tarrafal’s.
Hope my tips help guide you positively through this majestic island with its big-hearted locals!
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We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries!
Claire and Albert
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