Nous allons (en amoureux) à l'hôtel Neptune 1 semaine 😎 à saly fin février et avons pris la 1/2 pension, histoire d'aller voir ailleurs pour quelques excursions.
Certains diront oh 🤪 encore Saly c'est pas le vrai sénégal ... et tout et tout ... 😠 que je lis depuis quelques semaines sur les forum.
Mais, nous avons choisi une semaine de vacances là bas pour notre premier voyage au Sénégal (c'est fait, c'est payé et on ne changera pas!!) ET 1 semaine c'est court!
Cependant comme nous ne pensons pas rester tout le temps dans l'hôtel et qu'il faut bien "grailler" le midi notemment,
quelqu'un pourrait il nous renseigner sur les restos dans le coin (nourriture, accueil, proximité de l'hôtel...) et sur quelques taxis-guides (sûrs et pro et pas chers😛!!).
PS: Si quelqu'un a déjà séjourné en 1/2 pension au Neptune, comment a t il fait pour les boissons (l'eau ...) dans l'hôtel?
Salut
En prenant la plage, vous pouvez aller au Centre Commercial de Saly, il y a quelques restaurants et fast food.
Demandez quelle direction il faut prendreà un employé de l'hotel pour y aller.
IL y a aussi un bon restaurant, le Mar Y Sol, situé au croisement entre la route de Saly, et celle qui vous mène à l'hotel Neptune.
cordialement
dexxa
On ne voit bien qu'avec le coeur. L'essentiel est invisible pour les yeux. Saint Exupéry
Tu m'avais d'ailleurs déjà répondu pour d'autres questions il y a quelques temps.
Alors encore merci de répondre aux petits "ignorants touristiques" que nous sommes 🙂🙂🙂🙂.
Pour les fast food je passerai au M...Do avant de prendre l'avion à Nantes 😛
mais pour le Mar Y sol je prends!!!
Peux tu m'en dire plus? Du local j'espère!
En connais tu d'autres?
Et les guides locaux pas loin du Neptune quelqu'un connait?
Salut
une semaine c'est peu, et en amoureux, je ne pense pas que vous avez besoin d'un guide local. Profitez de votre semaine. N'oubliez pas de longer la plage jusqu'au centre commercial, il doit y avoir plus de 6 hotels, entre le neptune et le centre commercial. A l'hotel Espadon, il y a un pont (voir photo que j'ai prise le 1/1/2006) ou vous pouvez manger aussi. Pour la boisson, en visitant le centre de Saly, vous pouvez profiter pour en boire dans certaines échoppes, beaucoup moins cher que l'hotel.
Pour sortir du Neptune, prenez un taxi et dites lui de vous conduire au centre de Saly, ou vous avez des bars et autres restaurants pas cher.
Sinon pour les excurtions, faites le avec l'hotel, je vous conseille la réserve de Bandia, et les iles du Saloum.
cordialement
dexxa
On ne voit bien qu'avec le coeur. L'essentiel est invisible pour les yeux. Saint Exupéry
bonjour
nous avons une maison à Saly ( construite par nos petites mains ) je ne peux que vous féliciter d'aller au Neptune. Comme tout le monde nous avons commencé par là aussi car c'est plus facile et plus sécurisant pour une première fois. Oui Saly est une ville d'une banalité affligeante mais ni plus ni moins que toutes les autres villes touristiques en bordure de mer partout dans le monde par contre car c'est aussi rempli de touristes on y trouve un supermarché, des boutiques, un médecin et deux pharmacies ... bref c'est milles fois plus aisé de rencontrer l'afrique par ce biais quand on ne connait pas .
Pour les restos, pas se faire trop d'illusions aucun n'est transcendant mais c'est finalement pas très important. Partout le poisson est bon et il faut en profiter pour faire une cure de poissons car leur saveur est inégalée . Vous vous ferez roulez partout mais cela fait partie aussi du charme. Prenez les choses avec legèreté et vous disant que grace à vous ils mangeront de la viande le soir. Après tant d'années je viens encore de me faire avoir comme un bleu à Noel pour l'achat d'un objet comme quoi . Mais le plus important c'est que quand je le vois sur mon meuble, je le trouve toujours aussi beau même s'il ne vaut que 1/3 de ce que je l'ai payé
bonne vacances !!
ps si vous êtes courageux ne prenez pas les excursions de l'hotel c'est cher et se ballader en troupeaux n'est pas très gai . Allez place des bougainvilliers et demander le prix des excursions à des chauffeurs . Attention il faudra négocier ferme mais cela vaut la peine.
Pour info : aller à bandia 25.000 cfa
aller à Mbour entre 5.000 et 7.000 cfa
joal et siné saloum +/- 80.000 cfa
bien évidemment prix touriste et après rude négociation
En effet, entre le quartier hôtel Neptune et Saly (centre touristique) ...je me souviens d'un petit resto snack, en bordure d'océan! Ils y font des crevettes grillées au sel un pur délice!!😛
De sympathiques habitants du coin te proposeront également des plans à la langouste, les petits petons dans l'eau (mais gaffe au rhume des fesses !!! 🏴☠️)
Le village de Saly est bien plus sympathique et typique que le centre commercial (cela va sans dire!). De plus, il suffit d'y flâner pour rencontrer des locaux qui te proposeront des plans découvertes des alentours, une après midi thé à la menthe ou une soirée djembé -balafon. (prix à marchander off course! Ils sont très doués ...Patience, sourire et fermeté pour déboucher sur une proposition qui agrée les deux parties)
Dans le coin ...A ne pas louper l'arrivée des pêcheurs à Mbour. Brouhaha extraordinaire - multitude de couleurs.
Bandia (je réitère mon avis tout à fait perso ...Hummf!) ne vaut pas le détour. Multitude de véhicules dans la petite réserve à l'assaut des animaux!
Suggestion pour une petite promenade en canoé ou en petit bateau à moteur sur la lagune de la Somone, village à une dizaine de kilo de Sally. Et l'on y trouve un excellent restau local, peu fréquenté par les touristes. Je me souviens pas de son nom, mais il est très connu et se trouve 600 m après le télécentre, sur la gauche. il donne sur la rue, il y a une petite terrasse et une salle couverte. Je te conseille particulièrement les crevettes à l'ail et la brochette de lotte...
Pour les guides, je peux t'en conseiller deux qui sont à La Somone mais se déplacent. Il s'agit de Karim, un pêcheur qui est toujours à la lagune de la Somone et de Pompi, un gars charmant de la Somone. Ils m'avaient tous les deux été recommandés par le propriétaire d ela maison qu'on avait louée à la Somone. Ils nous ont emmenés au Saloum, à Dakar, à M'bour (génial l'arrivée des pêcheurs !).
Je pense que si vous en parlez à quelqu'un de l'hôtel, ils doivent les connaitre. Il y a aussi Abdoulaye, qui est cordonnier à la Somone et a fait le guide pour nous. Ces 3 guides sont gentils et de toute confiance.
Dans mon souvenir (en 2004) une excursion nous coutait environ 80 euros avec location de la voiture et les frais du guide.
Tu peux aller sur mon site à la rubrique Sénégal où je parle de ces guides justement.
En tout cas, ne ratez pas le Saloum, c'est enchanteur !
Il s'agit du "Gal gui".😉.. C'est Annick qui fait des miracles en cuisine. La brochette de lotte, le filet de capitaine... toute la carte est délicieuse et deplus, les desserts sont extras (ne pas louper la tarte tatin à la mangue).
bonjour, j'ai séjourné à l'hôtel Neptune et vous en serez pas déçus, car ce ne sont que des suites, vous aurez de l'aisance et servis à table. cuisine très bonne personnel gentil et serviable;
Pour ce qui est de déjeuner dehors, je n'ai pas trop fait. Mais vous pouvez aller à l'Ane qui tousse à MBOUR le soir pour déguster du mouton grillé servi sur une assiette en bois. Un délice. C'est sombre et peu engageant mais la cuisine est bonne. Chez Paolo qui est côté et l'hôtes restaurant le Bounty où l'on mangeait très bien en 2003 !! Bon voyage et bon séjour. (je m'appelle aussi lambert !!)😄
Bonjour, j'ai une maison à Ndangane dans le Sine Saloum, mais j'ai commensé par Sally comme tous le monde .
Il y à plusieurs resto autour des hotels, faites confiance aus guide, routard, hachette, etc, sinon allez à MBour, Paolo bien entendu pour le soir ou le Casedra? je ne sait plus exactement le nom, mais il est juste en face de la Bicis, banque incontournable pour avoir des CFA.
je ne vous conseillz pas la réserve de bandia, mais allez au lac rose et plutot vers le saloum evec repas chez tagada au Tmarco de Ndangane et balade en pirogue. Le tarif de la voiture est de 20 000 cfa 30 € .
Si vous le souhaitez, je peux vous communiquer un numéro de tél pour cette sortie.
Avant de traiter avec un guide local, regardez le prix des excursion à l'hotel pour avoir une référence, ne vous laissez pas avoir par le repas au resto compris dans l'excursion, car le repas local ne dépasse jamais les 1000 ou 1500 cfa pour un resto local, bouteille d'eau comprise .
Pour l'eau achetez un pack à l'épicerie du coin, en principe pour le même prix que la bouteille à l'hotel.
Attention Sally est l'endroit le plus touristique du Sénégal, donc vous serez très sollicités, soyer sympas mais ne vous laissez pas étouffer sachez dire non, ne promettez pas de repasser voir la boutique, si vous promettez faites le et vous serez considéré comme un bon toubab.
comme tout le monde nous allons commencé par saly...merci de me dire où emmener mon petit garçon de 8 a voir les animaux...si ce n'est à bandia.il en rêve...
Bonjour Kristel,
Je viens de lire ton message sur le Sénégal. Il est vrai qu' on ne peut pas dire que Saly c'est le Sénégal, mais c'est sympa quand même. Si tu cherches des restaurants sur la station, il y en a des tonnes : spécialitées Africaines, Françaises, Algériennes, pizza, hamburger, Suisses, Belges...
Tout dépend de ce que tu recherches et du budget bien sûr. Il existe un plan humoristique, dessiné, de Saly Portudal, tu pourras certainement le trouver dans ton hôtel et dans tous les commerces avoisinants; y sont répertoriés pas mal de restaurants, d'adressses utiles en cas de besoin ( SOS Médecins, police etc...), magasins pour le shopping et activités touristiques. Et en plus il est gratuit.
Voilà pour l'info, et bon séjour au pays de la Téranga.
vous avez choisi le plus bel hôtel de Saly. De plus, je sais ce que je dis, j'y ai connu mon mari, c'est le chanteur-guitariste du groupe qui y joue tous les soirs.
pour l'eau, il suffit de se rendre dans les épiceries ou le supermarché pour se ravitailler et rentrer discrètement à l'hôtel avec. Près de l'hôtel, il y a un restaurant qui s'appelle "la pirogue" qui pratique des prix abordables. Mais, si vous voulez vraiment manger à petit prix et très bien, demandez au taxi de vous emmener au restaurant "chez polo" à Saly niak niakhal (qui se prononce niar niaral), c'est vraiment typique et très bon.
Eh bien, je me permets de te conseiller un petit restaurant où l'on mange très bien, "typique" (mafé, yassa, tiep bou dien etc.) pour des prix très raisonnables (2500 CFA le plat). Il s'appelle "La Source" et il est situé à Saly Tapee.
Longer la route principale et tourner à droite après le Manguier où peut être aller à pieds et en profiter pour traverser le village. Calme, très bon accueil.
Eventullement téléphoner un peu avant au 536 99 01 pour réserver.
Sur le boulevard Haussman, il y a le Saloum et plus loin, le Tangana (celui-ci est vraiment local mais il faut en faire un au moins une fois!).
Ne vous privez de rien, goutez à tout, peu échappent de toute façon aux petites contrariétés gastriques qui font finalement partie du voyage!
Dans un registre plus "toubab", il y a "Le Soleil" où vous serez aussi très bien reçu par Patricia. La cuisine y est très bonne, y aller de préférences un soir où l'orchestre de Faso joue.
Il est situé juste à l'angle de la place des taxis.
Pour le taxi guide, vous pouvez contacter Babacar au (+00221) 586 61 10. Il connaît très bien son métier, les coins et les recoins, parle couramment français, wolof, diola, mandingue, poular, baïnouk et se débrouille pas mal en angais et en italien (oui oui!); il est très agréable et pratique des tarifs tout à fait corrects. Vous lui expliquez ce que vous recherchez (calme/nature ou marchés/arrivée du poisson/ville) et il vous concoctera des excursions à la carte.
Pour l'eau, acheter des packs de 6 bouteilles d'eau minérale (maxi 1800 CFA!) de Kirène ou autre...ou sinon, acheter en pharmacie un tube hydro clonazone de 180 comprimés, c'est plus économique mais plus contraignant, pour une semaine, ça ne vaut peut être pas la coup de s'embêter...
Oui, c'est vrai, Saly n'est pas représentative du Sénégal mais il ne tient qu'à vous de sortir un peu des sentiers touristiques.
Je n'ai eu que de bons échos de l'hôtel Neptune alors bon séjour à vous deux!
Pour une course en taxi COLLECTIF, compte 2OO CFA pour un aller simple jusqu'à Mbour (soit 30 cts d'Euro!) et 100 Francs CFA si tu t'arrêtes à l'intersection.
Pour aller d'un point à un autre dans Saly, 100 ou 200 Frs CFA en collectif, si tu restes sur la route principale; si tu veux te rendre à un point précis, dans le village par exemple ou à Niakh-niakhal, là tu es obligé de prendre une location, c'est à négocier avec le taxi, comme tout d'ailleurs, mais compte entre 1000 et 1500 cfa.
Salut, cela fait deux fois que je vais au Sénégal, à Saly.
Un endroit très bien pour aller manger, c'est le SAPOTI, mon frère tient ce resto avec sa femme, William et Carole et c'est vraiment très bien.
Il est situé en bord de mer en plein centre ville.
En ce qui concerne le Neptune c'est un superbe hotel, mes parents y ont séjourné, il y a une superbe piscine les logements sont de petites maisons éparpillées dans un magnifique jardin arboré de bougainvillier.
je pense que cela vous plaira
Mon frère connait beaucoup de gens la bas si vous avez besoin.
La meilleur excursion que j'ai faite. Est de découvrir la brousse en quad, il y a également un parcour dans les baobab à faire super.
Voilà j'espère que vous passerez un agréable séjour
Nous sommes parti au sénégal début janvier avec mon ami 🙂. nous avons séjourné à Saly et plus précisement au ROYAM hotel qui est completement accolé à ton hotel NEptune. Afin d'éviter les excursions avec l'hotel ( bcp trop cher pour ce qui est à visiter puis pas envie d'être mélé à un groupe ou les commérages vont de bon train . lol) nous avons loué les services d'un guide et chauffeur de taxi local que je te recommande fortement.
il s'appelle Major . tu le trouvera exactement dans Saly sur la grande allée du rond point du village ou il y a l'hotel de Fram, Nouvelles Frontières et une multitude de magasins de location de quad. il est tjs devant le restaurant la Riviéra et son magasin de location de quad. c'est simple de rejoindre cette allée en passant en bordure de plage depuis l'hotel. L'avantage c'est que Major sait ce qui est digne d'interet, contrairement aux hotels il peut te faire faire plusieurs lieux de visite dans un journée.( gorée, lac rose, quad, bandia, st louis....) ces tarifs sont 2 fois moins cher qu'a l'hotel. Et pour chaque excursions il te proposera des restos typiques et boutiques de souvenirs bon marché qu'il connait bien dans tout le sénégal. Nous avons passé un excellent séjour avec ce guide, il est trés agréable, et ponctuel ( il viendra vous chercher pour chaque excursion devant votre hôtel), il vous fera découvrir l'authenticité du pays en vous emmenant dans dans des lieux trés typiques ( ce que font pas les hotels) sa présence est un gage de sécurité aussi ( il éloigne tous les marchands vicieux qui arnaquent souvent les touristes). Bien entendu vous n'êtes pas obligé de passer toute la semaine avec lui. en ce qui me concerne sur une semaine j'ai fait 3 jours d'excursions et le reste du tps j'ai profité de la plage et de la piscine.🙂
Si ce guide t'interesse je t'enverrai sa photo et son numéro de tel pour le joindre au Sénégal.
MAIS N'IMPORTE QUOI !!!!!
Un mini st tropez... à mon avis tu ne connais ni saly ni st tropez !!! De mon coté j'ai passé 18 ans au Senegal, je continue d'y aller 2 fois par ans pour voir mes parents qui vivent à Dakar et qui ont une maison à Saly également. Saly n'est plus la station pourrie d'il y a quelques années. Oui il y a encore quelques cons qui ne viennent que pour se taper des filles dans le besoin, mais Saly a evolué et je trouve qu'il s'agit de l'endroit où aller pour une première decouverte de l'Afrique. C'est géographiquement bien placé pour bouger, et cela reste l'Afrique tout en offrant un minimum de confort pour vivre. Quant au fait de respirer l'arnaque, faut pas exagerer, il s'agit d'un pays en voie de dev et saly est une station de vacances, donc evidemment quelques arnaques en tout genre mais jamais rien de mechant.
Le mieux est de decouvrir, il y a pas mal d'infos sympa sur ce forum mais il ne faut evidemment pas tout ecouter.
Je conclurai avec un appart" sur St Tropez et sa comparaison avec Saly... artnaif s'il t'arrive d'aller à St Tropez, un conseil evite le mois d'aout et tu decouvriras un des plus beaux villages de France !!!
Bon Voyage à toutes et à Tous...c'est le voyage qui nous construit.
j'arrive de Saly ou nous avons séjourné (de fin janvier à début février) au lamentin beach, en demi pension
nous avons testés plusieurs restaurants, le quatriemme a été le bon
hotel la Riviéra, situé pres du centre commerciale, cuisine française, menu avec quart de vin, de plus le patron ou Guillaume viennent vous chercher gratuitement a votre résidence et vous ramene aprés si vous le désirez. prix 4900 fcfa.
Afrique de l'Ouest et du Centre › Sénégal · 2 replies
Nous partons à DAKAR en aout, location chez Marie Ayou, les forums sont positifs sur son accueil et logement avez vous plan sympa pas trop cher pour faire…
Si vous partez au sénégal la région la petite côte à warang exactement, n'hésitez pas à vous arrêtez au restaurant chez Hadji, vous y mangerez des spécialités…
I'm looking for a fishing camp in Casamance, south of the Casamance River, between Djembering and Cap Skirring—not too isolated.
Any info on Villa Terranga? I’ve sent several messages but haven’t gotten a response.
Other fishing camps?
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
Thanks for your feedback, tips, etc.
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing:
23/07: Arrival in Santiago
24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days)
30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days)
05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days)
11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days)
15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike?
What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car?
Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike.
There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time.
Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised).
Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day.
Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer.
Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well).
But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough).
Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like.
Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed.
Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great.
Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival!
I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy!
Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM.
Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha.
Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out.
Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo).
Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun.
Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule.
I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s.
If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options?
For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have.
Thanks so much for your help!
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands:
Arrival in Praia on July 8th
Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão.
We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much).
How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough?
Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot?
Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions!
Valéry
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe?
I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share:
- Your favorite places to visit and hikes
- Accommodations that charmed you
- Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet)
- Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao)
- Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights
- Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista
- Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao:
I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)...
For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.