One-month trip to Nicaragua – feedback
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Original post
CH
Hi everyone, There’s not much info out there on Nicaragua in general, which is why I posted my questions here on the forum... but didn’t get many answers since it’s tough to find any anyway. It’s a stunning country, but my experience was mixed. There are areas with very few tourists (which is exactly what we were looking for), but as a result, there’s almost no way to get around (unless you walk, and even that’s not easy or always possible) and no real tourist infrastructure. Finding info is nearly impossible—there’s practically nothing, so it’s hard to know what you’ll find in a given place, whether it’s worth taking a 12-hour bus ride across the country, only to turn around 48 hours later. The easy and pleasant spots: Granada, Ometepe, San Juan del Sur and the Pacific beaches, León, and the Corn Islands. These are the places mentioned in guidebooks (the rest is jungle to the east, not many roads south of the lake, and no boats on the lake either—except for the Rivas-Ometepe connection). Venturing off the beaten path is really tough. The Caribbean coast: aside from the Corn Islands (which are very touristy but not easy to reach by ferry from Bluefields), or if you want to take a flight with La Costeña, book in advance—there are often very few seats! The rest isn’t particularly satisfying, especially Pearl Lagoon, where swimming isn’t possible due to unsafe water. Don’t expect a postcard-perfect setting. But everything’s worth it if you have the time... Buses: there are plenty, and they’re super cheap—but be warned, they stop everywhere, take forever, and are loud (though kind of charming in a vintage way). Too many buses can ruin a trip. Lodges: affordable on a small budget, except in Managua and along the entire Caribbean coast! For example, beaches like El Tránsito (which is gorgeous) charge at least $50 or $60 per night for a basic room. Good to know. In Matagalpa, we tried to rent a motorcycle to get around—impossible. I asked everywhere, but there was no way. So we cut our stay short because once you’ve explored Selva Negra, there’s not much else to do (an 8-hour bus ride to see a waterfall? No thanks). These might seem like small details, but they really matter when you want to enjoy where you are and discover nice spots—you end up stuck. Bring plenty of mosquito spray + oral antihistamines: mosquitoes and bites are a *serious* nuisance. (I got over 200 bites in one go during a trip to a humid tropical forest, even though I was covered and protected.) All in all, it’s an adventurous, exploratory trip. The people are great, and we never felt unsafe (even though some travelers have had *really* bad experiences). I thought there’d be a carnival since it was the right time of year—nothing. No dancing, not festive at all (compared to Brazil, for example, it’s the complete opposite). We saw animals, but no toucans, for example! For a beautiful, pristine, and well-organized trip, everyone agrees—go to Costa Rica, but be prepared to pay a lot more. Nicaragua is something else entirely. For surfers, though, it’s amazing! Personally, I love watching fish in clear, calm waters, hiking in nature, and swimming—I think I picked the wrong destination, but I’m glad I got to experience this totally wild side of Central America! :-)
Chantal
MA Marcjadore Regular ·
Hi Chantal,

Yeah, Nicaragua feels more authentic than other destinations. And we all have different impressions. After that, I don’t find it that hard to get around. You can rent a car in Matagalpa, and it’s super easy—no need to do an 8-hour trip. And it’s not that expensive for 1 or 3 days. There’s a ton of info on Facebook groups that makes traveling easier. Nicaraguans use them a lot.

We live near Rivas, and this is our second trip to Nicaragua (2 times, 1 year each).

Animals are everywhere, though yeah, it’s less touristy than Costa Rica (which is expensive). You just gotta dig a little.

On Ometepe, you can kayak and see caimans, turtles, birds, butterflies, and monkeys galore. The Río San Juan is an incredible experience—an adventure you gotta do. It’s right next to Costa Rica, and you’ll see huge iguanas, caimans, toucans, monkeys, Jesus Christ lizards (the reptile that runs on water), colorful frogs... cacao tours, and so much more. Laguna de Apoyo has tons of wildlife too. Same with Mombacho. For beaches, there are plenty of cheap hostels. We just spent a little weekend in Las Peñitas (3 days for 120 € with breakfast for 3).

You’re right—it’s more of an adventure, but there’s so much to do: volcanoes, reserves, colonial towns, lakes. And it’s very safe if you take the same precautions as anywhere else.

I think yeah, Costa Rica is easier to plan, but it’s *way* more expensive. Example: A zipline for 3 people here costs max $50—less than the price of one person in Costa Rica! Just to be clear, we love Costa Rica too.

Anyway, it’s great to get everyone’s take—thanks to you!
JE Jerome3484 Regular ·
Hi there, thanks for the info! I’ve been looking into Nicaragua for a while now, but flight tickets are just way too expensive for the less than two weeks I’d be able to spend there. If you don’t mind me asking, where did you fly from and how much did it cost?
ST Stephane636 Regular ·
Hi everyone, and thanks—it’s really helpful reading your posts. We’re heading to Nicaragua for three weeks on April 14th, and I’d love to experience a jungle trek (Rio San Juan? Anywhere else?). Any advice on that? Could you recommend a local guide or organization? I always prefer to support locals who can be paid fairly without middlemen… hoping to hear from you soon.

Best, Stéphane
MA Marcjadore Regular ·
Hi! It really depends on where you can fly from. There are often direct Zurich–Liberia (Costa Rica, just 1 hour from Nicaragua) fares for 750 €. Otherwise, I fly from Frankfurt.
MA Marcjadore Regular ·
Hi Stephane.

The Río San Juan is magical. You can get there by lancha from San Carlos. Also check with Reserva Bartola (Facebook). Otherwise, organize from El Castillo—tours are available there. One tip: take your time while you're there.
ST Stephane636 Regular ·
Thanks so much for your reply! !
DJ Djackx67 Veteran ·
Hi there, if you want to have a great experience on the Rio San Juan, I recommend staying at a hotel called Gran River Lodge. You can get there by road, but it's much nicer to arrive by river.

Basically, it's a rustic lodge in the middle of nature. I've been there three times, and there were tons of animals to observe day and night. You could go horseback riding, kayaking, fishing, etc. Back in 2017, a night in a cabin cost $10. For jungle hikes, the ones starting from El Castillo are nice, but if your main goal is to observe wildlife, Gran River Lodge is the place to go. You can even wander around the forest surrounding the lodge...

Following up on what was said earlier, there are two places in Central America where I've seen the most animals: Bahia Drake in Costa Rica and the Rio San Juan.

I suggest staying a few nights at Gran River Lodge and then heading to El Castillo, possibly doing a jungle excursion from there. Actually, you should spend a week on the Rio San Juan to really enjoy it....
PH Phil31600 Regular ·
Hi there! A few years ago, we spent a few days in El Castillo. Such a great memory! We took a river collective transport from San Carlos and organized a short hike in the primary forest on the spot, a nighttime outing to meet caimans, and a morning walk along one of the tributaries of the Río San Juan. Plus, a tour of a plantation and a visit to the village and its fort. My old travel journal is still available. I also have great memories of our accommodation facing the river ‘rapids.’ In my opinion, El Castillo is a must-visit in Nicaragua—if you take your time. Anyway, getting there takes time. We didn’t go see the wreckage of the old boats that used to connect the Atlantic, the lake, and then the Pacific on the river... but that was before the Panama Canal! Happy planning! !
Voyager ajoute à sa vie (proverbe berbère)
ST Stephane636 Regular ·
Good evening Philippe, Thanks for the info. This is exactly the kind of place I’m looking for. My son and I dream of spending a few nights in the forest to experience that atmosphere. It’ll all depend on transportation... we’ll be staying in the northwest near Chinandega (family visit), and I’m not yet sure how long the trips will take. Have a good evening
DJ Djackx67 Veteran ·
You’ll need to set aside a full day to travel from the northwest to San Carlos, the gateway to the Río San Juan.
FL Floflo1 Veteran ·
Hello and thank you, it's really helpful reading you. We're leaving for Nicaragua for three weeks on April 14th. I'd love to experience a jungle hike (Rio San Juan?). Anywhere else? Would you have any advice on this? A local guide or organization to recommend? I always prefer to support locals who can be paid fairly without intermediaries... hoping to hear from you soon. Best regards, Stéphane

Hi Stéphane,

I hope your trip went well! Would you have any great tips from your recent trip to share, especially about nature and wildlife? We're passionate about birds! We've already been to Costa Rica three times, but it's really expensive... What's the cost of living like in Nicaragua? Looking forward to reading you... Florence
Florence - Le monde est un village... - Vivre simplement pour que d'autres, simplement, puissent vivre-Gandhi Carnets de voyage sur le site de VF : "Deux semaines dans le sud du Laos", "Laos 2009 : Vientiane, Luang Prabang et Vang Vieng" et "2 semaines de Yangon à Mawlamyine en novembre 2015".
MA Marcjadore Regular ·
Hi there,

For nature, the Rio San Juan is a must-do. You can explore it with Bartola or head to El Castillo.

In the north, it's easy to travel between Jinotega and Matagalpa—there are waterfalls and farms offering great hikes.

At Eco Vera, near Matagalpa, spotting sloths is super easy, along with other wildlife.

I also recommend joining Nicaragua Facebook groups for lots of tips.

On Ometepe, along the Rio Istian, you can see birds and monkeys.

Same goes for the Rio Papaturo, accessible by boat from San Carlos or Colón.

The Chocoyero Reserve is a paradise for nature lovers, with waterfalls and the famous Chocoyos.

If you stay on Playa Maderas North/Majagual, you’ll see monkeys every day.

I just got back from 8 months in Nicaragua—the wildlife is incredible!
FL Floflo1 Veteran ·
Hi there,

and a big thank you for your reply!!

I don’t know why, but I hadn’t seen it....

Noted! !
Florence - Le monde est un village... - Vivre simplement pour que d'autres, simplement, puissent vivre-Gandhi Carnets de voyage sur le site de VF : "Deux semaines dans le sud du Laos", "Laos 2009 : Vientiane, Luang Prabang et Vang Vieng" et "2 semaines de Yangon à Mawlamyine en novembre 2015".
DE Deffunk Regular ·
Hi there, what budget-friendly (bus) itinerary would you recommend for January, and what should I see—main cities, nature, etc.? The most important things, from the Costa Rican border to Honduras. Thanks! P.S. I’m also planning to visit El Salvador.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hi there,

I traveled by bus around Nicaragua back in 2017 for two months and loved the whole country, though I didn’t make it to San Juan del Sur—it’s super touristy and known for surfing.

I really enjoyed: the Río San Juan area (saw lots of wildlife), Solentiname (though it takes time to get there), Ometepe, León, Granada, Masaya, and more. There’s plenty to do for several weeks without getting bored.

At the time, the country wasn’t very expensive.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )

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