Voici un petit résumé avec photos de nos 3 magnifiques semaines passées dans ce fabuleux pays !
Nous voyageons beaucoup et toujours par nos propres moyens. Par manque de temps (on a décidé de partir 3 mois avant le départ et grosse saison au boulot), nous sommes pour la première fois passé par une agence (belafrica). Nous avons été entièrement satisfait par leurs serivces (sauf la compagnie de voiture...).
Nous étions en camping la plupart du temps (je dirais à 90%) avec un 4x4 Nissan double cabine et tente sur le toit.
Nous avons effectué une boucle dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre.
Voici en gros notre parcours :
- Windhoek (nuit sur place et récupération du véhicule le lendemain matin).
- Nuit à Bagatelle Kalahari game ranch en camping. (super camping).
- Nuit au Quiver tree forest camp. (endroit très jolie avec la forêt juste à côté et le couché de soleil accompagné des damans).
- 2 Nuits à Aus (très sympa, bien situé).
- Nuit au sesriem campsite. (idéal pour l'exploration matinale).
- Nuit dans le parc Naukluft (idéal pour la rando) Nous avons fait l'olive trail. Le matin, il y avait un babouin dans le pick-up qui faisait ses amplettes !
- 2 nuits à Walvis Bay (très jolie baie où l'ont peut voir toutes sortes d'oiseaux et même dauphins).
- Nuit dans le Spitzkoppe. (magnifique endroit).
- Nuit au brandberg white lady lodge. (camping super, très espacés).
- Nuit au Palmwag Lodge. (en lodge cette fois. Très jolie. Champagne offert dans la chambre).
- Nuit à Purros. (endroit encore magique, loin de tout et au calme).
- Nuit à Opuwo (endroit finalement intéressant et à voir pour sa population).
- 2 nuits à epupa camp (je sais plus lequel... mais très chouette, juste à coté des chutes).
- Nuit au kunene river lodge (magnifique, calme, des arbres majestueux et les vervets à observer).
- Nuit à Olifantsrus (nouveau camp. Sympa mais la tour d'observation est mal conçue).
- Nuit à Halali (très chouette, c'était très calme. J'ose pas imaginé juillet-août...).
- Nuit à Namutoni (très chouette également).
- Dernière à Otjiwarongo.
Alors ce que nous avons aimé ?
- Pour une première en Afrique, je dirais presque tout ! Le sable, la poussière, le désert, les longues routes, les paysages magnifiques et la population très aimable. Rouler dans des rivière asséchées en mode 4x4. Se sentir libre, loin de tout.
Et bien entendu, cette faune extraordinaire !!
Il est certain qu'avec plus de temps, je serais rester plus longtemps dans certaines régions pour se laisser aller, s'imprégner.
- Notre plus belle route ? Sans hésiter, le détour entre Sesfontein et Opuwo en passant par Purros. Les gens m'ayant dit que cette route n'avait aucun intérêt sont soit très difficile ou aveugle. Le bonheur de se retrouver seul dans ces contrées sauvages (avec la route défoncée qui va avec). Une fois passé Orupembe, les paysages sont juste grandioses (cette partie là est magnifique) !
Ce que j'ai moins aimé ?
- Très peu de choses à vrai dire. Je dirais les touristes essentiellement. Ceux qui sont prêt à nourrir les animaux juste pour poser avec eux (vu de mes propres yeux...) Ceux qui se plaignent car ils ont payés pour un safari et ne voient pas ce qu'ils souhaitent (Est-ce un zoo ?).
Et l'hypocrisie des gens quand ils parlent du zèbre qu'ils ont vu et photographié avec beaucoup d'émotions tout en mangeant du kudu ou zèbre au même moment... Beaucoup de touristes critiquent la chasse (et je suis 100% d'accord). Mais savent-ils que très très souvent, la viande dans leurs assiettes provient de cette même chasse ?
- Nous avions une voiture de chez camping car hire. La voiture nous a emmené partout sans problème. J'ai été surpris à la réception, de devoir vérifier le véhicule de A à Z et de cocher tous les dégâts moi-même. J'ai déjà loué un peu partout et c'est toujours la compagnie qui s'en occupe (suffit de revérifier après). Donc j'ai fais le maximum (avec un côté de la voiture au soleil, l'autre à l'ombre, donc pas simple).
Au retour, nous avions eu un impact sur le parebrise (parfois inévitable). J'ai bien entendu accepté de payer car c'était ma responsabilité. J'ai payé 35€ pour un gros impact donc correct. Puis ils reviennent et me disent qu'il y a de légères griffes et un petit coup. Je regarde, ok oui c'est très minime, je sais pas si ça vient de moi (peut être pas vu donc pas coché). Je me dis 35€ pour un gros coup sur le parebrise, ils vont pas demander beaucoup. Je signe (mon erreur) et le lendemain, ils reçoivent le devis et me disent qu'ils gardent ma caution de 500€... J'ai dis ce que j'en pensais. Pas une seule réponse... J'ai coché des coups et griffent bien plus gros qui n'ont jamais été réparé pour autant. Bref, j'ai vraiment le sentiment de m'être fait volé.
Bref, c'est un pays extraordinaire où il est possible encore d'observer des animaux sauvages en dehors des parcs nationaux (lions, éléphants et j'en passe).
Certaines régions subissaient de grandes sécheresses. Pas une goutte d'eau depuis 3 ans !
J'espère sincèrement que ce pays trouvera un bon équilibre avec le tourisme !
Ce pays m'a vraiment touché. J'y reviendrais !
Merci à vous tous pour le partage d'infos. N'hésitez à me poser des questions !
Les photos vont suivre.
Julien
Ne rêves pas ta vie, Vis tes rêves.
Ce n'est pas le paysage qui est petit, c'est la fenêtre par laquelle on le regarde.
Les photos sont superbes ! Nous partons en couple en Namibie au mois de mai, également 3 semaines et j'aimerais savoir si sur le parcours que tu as fait, le 4x4 s'avère nécessaire partout ?
Compte tenu des problèmes que tu as eu à la fin , je pense qu'on évitera cette agence mais à titre indicatif, à combien se montait le prix de la location d'un 4x4 par jour ?
Tu n'es pas passé à Etosha. C'était un choix ou sur 3 semaines, c'était trop juste pour rajouter à ton itinéraire ?
Tout ce qui a été perdu dans la plaine, tu le retrouveras dans les montagnes. Proverbe géorgien.
Les photos sont superbes ! Nous partons en couple en Namibie au mois de mai, également 3 semaines et j'aimerais savoir si sur le parcours que tu as fait, le 4x4 s'avère nécessaire partout ?
Compte tenu des problèmes que tu as eu à la fin , je pense qu'on évitera cette agence mais à titre indicatif, à combien se montait le prix de la location d'un 4x4 par jour ?
Tu n'es pas passé à Etosha. C'était un choix ou sur 3 semaines, c'était trop juste pour rajouter à ton itinéraire ?
Si si il est passé à Etosha, à la fin du séjour.
Vous pouvez voir de nombreux carnets sur VF, souvent de trois semaines, ça pourra vous donner une idée un peu plus précise de quoi voir et quoi faire en trois semaines.
Bons préparatifs !
Anne-Marie
Carnets : Namibie en camping car, l'Est de l'Afrique du Sud, du KTP au Kaokoland en 4x4, la Norvège en hiver 2x, l'Ecosse en hiver, la Namibie avec remorque, l'Islande en camping car en juin, le tout avec 4 enfants, dans le profil https://voyageforum.com/v.f?membre=Caperam;
Magnifique voyage et superbes photos 🙂. Bravo et merci de ce partage.
Petite question, combien de temps avez vous mis entre Palmwag / Purros et Purros / Opuwo via Orupembe ? Vous avez pris la piste 3707 ou le lit de rivière ?
Je vais faire cette partie de Namibie en avril prochain, alors je cumule les infos. Il y a déjà quelques carnets qui mentionnent ce coin, mais c'est toujours bien d'avoir des news toutes fraiches 😉
Alors pour le prix du 4x4, nous avons payé1700€ pour un double cabine (bien plus pratique pour ranger des affaires à l'arrière) et pour 3 semaines. Mais ça dépend de la période. Juillet-août c'est encore plus cher.
Pour ce qui est du côté pratique à l'utilisation du 4x4. Purement, à part pour faire les quelques kilomètres à Sesriem (il faut reconnaître que c'est super sympa à faire) et la route pour Purros, Orupembe jusqu'à Opuwo, je dirais que non. J'ai vu beaucoup de voitures 2x2 donc d'un point de vue économique c'est faisable pour 90% des trajets classiques. MAIS j'estime que pour ce type de voyage (qu'on ne fait pas tous les jours), il serait dommage de s'en priver ! On est plus haut, plus confortable et on peut se permettre de rouler tranquille. Tous les véhicules classiques roulaient bien plus doucement avec bien plus de chances de taper la voiture avec toutes les bosses, trous sur la route. Donc sans hésiter, un 4x4 pour ma part !
Ne rêves pas ta vie, Vis tes rêves.
Ce n'est pas le paysage qui est petit, c'est la fenêtre par laquelle on le regarde.
Oui nous avons suivi la piste D3707. Pour le lit de rivière asséché, c'est hautement recommandé d'être à 2 voitures et d'avoir au moins une personne avec une bonne expérience de la conduite 4x4. Sinon c'est un peu dangereux car très peu de passage !
Après Sesfontein, la route devient assez vite chaotique mais après c'est plus sympa. Jusque Purros, niveau paysage, c'est plat mais on est seul et ça donne de belles sensations.
Par contre, juste après Orupembe, la piste devient splendide, montagneuse, petite. On y a rencontré des dizaines de villages Himbas dont certains sur la route à dos d'ânes.
Ce que j'ai beaucoup apprécié, c'est que jamais on nous a demandé de l'argent mais plutôt de l'eau, des légumes. Les enfants demandent souvent des bonbons par contre !
Si vous avez des questions, n'hésitez pas !
Ne rêves pas ta vie, Vis tes rêves.
Ce n'est pas le paysage qui est petit, c'est la fenêtre par laquelle on le regarde.
Ouille ouille ouille ! les photos !!!! superbes !
Pas de chance avec la voiture... nous avions la nôtre par Avis, nous sommes rentrés avec quelques griffures supplémentaires qu'ils ont bien remarqué.... ils ont tout simplement dit que c'était
normal !
Quant à la viande dans les assiettes, si tu es en B&B dans une ferme la plupart du temps c'est le retour de chasse du fermier effectivement, mais dans les lodges et restaurants on nous a dit qu'il y avait des élevages... vrai ou pas ?
Ton circuit est sympa, un regret pour moi de ne pas être montée jusqu'à Opuwo mais nous n'avons pas été très aventureux sur les pistes..
Merci pour ce retour
La liberté, c'est un cadeau qu'on se fait à soi-même - (L.Gauthier)
Magnifique voyage et superbes photos 🙂. Bravo et merci de ce partage.
Petite question, combien de temps avez vous mis entre Palmwag / Purros et Purros / Opuwo via Orupembe ? Vous avez pris la piste 3707 ou le lit de rivière ?
Je vais faire cette partie de Namibie en avril prochain, alors je cumule les infos. Il y a déjà quelques carnets qui mentionnent ce coin, mais c'est toujours bien d'avoir des news toutes fraiches 😉
Au niveau du temps (car j'ai oublié d'y répondre). On a eu un pneu crevé qu'on a fait réparer à sesfontein et on a galéré à trouver le camping du Purros. Il est dans le lit de la rivière à droite de la route mais le panneau en bois indiquait une mauvaise direction...
Donc de Palmwag, je dirais 7h je pense. Et de Palmag à Opuwo, je dirais pareil je pense (ça roule mieux). Ça dépend des arrêts photos et des rencontres aussi !
J'avais également lu qu'une des plus belles pistes de Namibie était la la D707 (en partant de Aus pour se rendre à Sesriem). Elle n'est pas vilaine (on est en Namibie quand même) mais je lui ai rien trouvé d'extraordinaire. Les routes du nord sont beaucoup plus jolies car plus de reliefs.
Ne rêves pas ta vie, Vis tes rêves.
Ce n'est pas le paysage qui est petit, c'est la fenêtre par laquelle on le regarde.
WOWWW Julien tes photos sont MAGNIFIQUES !
Vraiment ! tu les as retouchés un peu ou pas ? Les contrastes sont tellement saisissants parfois...
Avec quoi tu les as prises ??
Et pour photographier ce beau ciel étoilé ?
Merci pour ce retour en tout cas :)
Pour la voiture c'est sûr ça fait rager :-/
Je note pour la route vers Purros. Je pense qu'on fera on feeling en fonction de notre maigre expérience ne 4*4 sur place.
Merci. (je dois encore y mettre une dernière série).
Au niveau retouche, non pas vraiment. Je rajoute ou enlève, selon, la photo, de la luminosité et/ou contraste, c'est tout !
Par contre pour les paysages contrastés, c'est un mode HDR qui permet de faire ça (sur mon bridge). Sur certaines prises, ça marche très bien ou pas.
Pour 90% des photos, j'utilise un canon 750d avec un objectif 400mm ou le 18-55mm vendu avec.
Pour les photos de ciels étoilés, il faut obligatoirement un trépied et oublier le mode automatique. En gros, il faut mettre la mise au point manuelle et sur infini. Ensuite jouer avec la vitesse d'obturation. Sur ce canon, je peux aller jusqu'à 30 secondes. Donc l'appareil aura un temps de pause de 30 secondes et pourra donc capter un maximum de lumière. Et pour terminer, il faut mettre le retardateur (je mets 2 secondes) pour éviter de bouger l'appareil.
On peut se faire plaisir sans avoir un matos pro.
Et je n'avais aucune expérience 4x4 avant, juste l'esprit aventureux. Donc vous pouvez y aller, ça vaut clairement la peine !
Bon voyage
Ne rêves pas ta vie, Vis tes rêves.
Ce n'est pas le paysage qui est petit, c'est la fenêtre par laquelle on le regarde.
En me relisant, je voulais quand même clarifier une chose (car il se peut qu'on puisse le comprendre de cette façon et ce n'est pas le cas).
Je ne veux pas faire de mauvais lien entre l'agence Bel Africa et Camping Car Hire.
Pour les personnes désireuses de partir avec un T.O, je ne peux que leur conseiller cette agence. Ils ont même tout essayé pour arranger les choses avec la compagnie de voiture.
Ne rêves pas ta vie, Vis tes rêves.
Ce n'est pas le paysage qui est petit, c'est la fenêtre par laquelle on le regarde.
Superbe les photos, bravo ça donne envie !!!. J'ai une question, tu parles d'un bridge et de ton Canon 750d. Tu avais donc 2 appareils, un bridge et un reflex ?.
Nous aussi quand on voyage nous avons chacun un reflex et en plus un bridge (FZ200) avec lequel je filme et fait mes HDR, pratique un bridge mais limité dans les possibilités d'impression et de montée en ISO.
Encore des photos SVP
Oui c'est bien cela, j'avais mon bridge pour les paysages (souvent en HDR) et mon reflex avec son téléobjectif (qui devient du 600mm sur mon petit capteur).
J'ai aussi hésité avec le FZ200 car très lumineux pour un bridge mais j'ai pris le fujifilm HS50 EXR car zoom manuel et assez bon dans l'ensemble (pour un bridge). Très pratique donc mais rien à voir avec la qualité reflex, c'est certain.
Ne rêves pas ta vie, Vis tes rêves.
Ce n'est pas le paysage qui est petit, c'est la fenêtre par laquelle on le regarde.
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 14 replies
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Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 13 replies
Je lis avec grand intérêt tous vos récits de voyage en Namibie et wahou... le moins qu'on puisse dire c'est que j'ai hâte!! Nous prévoyons (mon copain et moi),…
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
Hi,
I’m heading to Angola for two weeks starting mid-April and I’d like to rent a car to explore the country, but not a 4x4 to keep my budget in check. I plan to mostly stay in the western part and go as far as the Namibian border. Is it possible to drive in Iona Park without a 4x4, or to get to Kalendula or Piedra Negras? Also, is the Lubango–Huambo–Kuito–Malanje route doable in a city car? Lastly, do gas stations accept Visa?
Thanks for your feedback and tips!
Now that the Kruger part is (almost) wrapped up, I’m looking at the "Cape region" section.
The idea of spending 2 days (well, more like 2 nights and 1.5 days) in the Cederberg is really tempting 😎.
I’ve reread the posts about it—more or less (actually, more less than more)—and I still have quite a few questions:
- Where’s the best area to stay? Initially, I was looking at Kagga Kama, but I’m not sure if it’s worth the cost (or the trip, for that matter), or maybe Mount Ceder? Or somewhere else (without driving 6 or 8 hours from CT 😉)?
The plan is to get there in a sedan (if possible), see some beautiful landscapes, and do one or two hikes (nothing too tough 😛).
- I read that you need a permit to hike there... where do you buy it? (At the entrance, like in Kruger? 🤪)
- Is October a good time for the weather (theoretically...)?