ns sommes alles 15j en avril , le caire/alexandrie/port said/ismailia/suez/le caire
un petit topo en attendant de faire le blog
Le caire :
hotel arabiannight
http://arabiannightshotel.com/ reserve sur le net en France, payé 4 € a ce moment pour la réservation .Tres bonne communication, le gerant ns a signalé qu’il y aurait la fete a ce moment et que ns risquions de ne pas dormir…(si vs prenez 3 nuits ou plus, un taxi vient vs chercher gratuitement. )120le la double avec sdb et petit déjeuner, internet gratuitement, , bouteille d’eau a l’hotel a 2,5
Le musée du caire: 60le et 30 avec reduc
La citadelle :50 le et 25le si reduction
Taxi 20 le pour aller de cet hotel a la place du musée ou ns avons logés a" l’hotel Vienna" 120 le avec sdb, pas de petit dej, pas terrible mais l’interet c’est qu’il est pres du musée(ds le même immeuble que le «dabah » ou ns etions l’an passé, assez degeu, et le « suisse » au 6eme
Train pour alexandrie 35 le /pers
Alexandrie
Très facile de se déplacer en ville, taxi, bus, microbus(0,5 à 1le), et surtout tram(0,25 le et 1 le pour le tram ancien aux sieges de bois)
La gare est sur la place, prendre en face la rue Daniel et la descendre pour se rendre a pieds sur la corniche
"Hotel Philip house" 130 le la double, mais pas de salle de bain, pas de petit dej, fenêtres donnant sur la corniche, très bruyant la nuit, les tapis et deco ne sont que de la poudre aux yeux!!
Pas terrible
Et surtout pas terrible du tout le café en bas « café de la paix »
Restaurant le Mohammed Ahmed , tout pres de la place, restau populaire
Restau « Gad » c’est une chaîne, mais celui-ci possède une salle de restau
Restau « el safawani » a la station de tram ibrahima
Nous avons préfère pour 10 le de moins" l’acropole" sur la place,27 rue chambre du commerce.Ramle station , au 120 le avec sdb et petit dej ds la chambre.Au même etage vs avez le « transit »il a l’air plus select et est plus cher
ACROPOLE_hotel@yahoo.com
Celui-ci a donc vu sur la place avec un petit balcon, et vue également sur la baie, plus au calme, même si on entends le tram
Le fort de kabey a faire a pieds par la corniche et retour par les 5 mosquées (ou réciproquement. Endroit très calme, peu de touriste étrangers.
Bibliotheque 10 le, consigne pour les sacs au niveau des guichets (assez mal fichu)
Abouk’ir
Microbus 1,5le a 28km d’alexandrie
Port said bus 22 le a prendre a la « nouvelle station » assez loin du centre, prendre un taxi 5 le
Hotel «el miriland » Digla et ramsis str 70 le pour 2 avec sdb, vieillot, mais correct(ils ns ont meme rendu de l'argent car la tv ne fonctionnait pas!!), très calme, pas de voiture ds la rue, petits commerces et bistrots ds le quartier, A voir le canal, la traversée en ferry gratuit pour port Fouad, musée militaire
Gare a proximité pour aller a Ismailia 15 le .Hotel Isis 50 le avec sdb , sur la place Orabi devant la gare, la ville est tranquille, beaucoup d’espaces vert, le canal, mais semble en travaux ds tout les coins!!
Train pour Suez a 8 le (comme ds les films!!)pas de carreaux, ou bien cassés, les portes ne se ferment pas, sieges plus ou moins entiers..et tj aucun touristes, mais de chouettes rendontres!
coiffeur homme pour 20le avec epilation au fils
Hotel « el madena » au calme, pas de passage de voiture, 90 le , bus en ville pour 0,25le pour aller au port et au canal, pas le droit de faire des photos
coiffeur femme avec une teinture a 100le et surtout un super bon moment passé (preparation d'une mariée)
Bus pour le caire 10 le, prendre un taxi (5le)pour aller a la station , est un peu éloignée du centre
Au caire hotel «ismailia » 90le avec petit dej , au 8eme etage sur la place eltahrir(musée du caire)
www.isamiliahotel.com devant la station de metro
Nilobus 1le se prend devant Maspero et vs laisse au niveau du jardin botanique, jolie balade ds ce jardin, au calme, avec expo de végétaux
Nilometre 15 le, 8 le avec reduc, descendre a la station « el malik el saleh » direction helwan
Pas loin, vs ferez une super balade ds le vieux caire, ne pas hésiter a vs enfoncer ds les ruelles et vs y arrêter prendre un the , et le quartier copte, le 23 fete de st george patron des grecques, grand rassemblement a l’église st georges
Juste un petit mot sur le "café de la Paix" à Alexandrie. Si effectivement, le lieu ne casse pas des briques, signalons que la shisha est d'une qualité rare en Egypte : le responsable shisha utilise le tabac de la marque émiratie Al-Fakher, réputée être la meilleure du monde, alors qu'en général en Egypte on trouve la marque locale Al-Nakhla qui est beaucoup plus difficile à fumer (rape à la gorge), le tabac étant de nettement moins bonne qualité. Donc, pour fumer une bonne shisha, allez tout droit au café de la Paix ! Quel dommage, toutefois, qu'ils n'aient que du tabac à la pomme.
salut gilles
et merci
c'est pas qu'il casse pas des briques, c'est que ils ne font pas les prix qui sont affichés sur la carte(qui se trouve d'ailleurs ds les pioles de l'hotel) plus chers, bien sur.. je pense qu'ils se souviennent de ns
qt à la shisha , j'avoue que ni pour compagnon(ancien fumeur)ni pour moi (pas fumeuse du tout, meme un petard ne me fait aucun effet!!😉)ca n'est pas pour ns un critere
mais j'ai cru comprendre que le tabac a la pomme est le plus utilisé, me trompe je?
Je suis étonné (et déçu) de ta mésaventure. Perso, j'y suis allé trois fois cette semaine, et les prix étaient corrects. Le fait que j'habite en Egypte et parle un peu l'arabe a du aider.
Tu as raison, le tabac à la pomme est effectivement le plus classique pour les shishas, pour une raison que j'ignore car c'est loin d'être le meilleur et il n'a, en fait, jamais le goût de pomme (plutôt anis d'habitude). Dans ce café, vu qu'ils avaient du tabac d'excellente qualité, on pouvait espérer un peu plus de choix. Mais, vraiment, pour fumer une shisha, je n'ai pas trouvé mieux en Egypte.
Mais la shisha ne fait pas d'effet particulier !Ca n'a rien à voir avec un pétard, et si tu n'y mets que du tabac, tu n'auras pas d'autre effet que celui du tabac. Si vous retournez à Alex, votre compagnon pourra tester sans risque de "replonger" car, il n'y a pas d'accoutumance qui se crée. Perso, je ne fume pas de cigarette mais je fume parfois la shisha. Je peux arrêter pendant deux ou trois mois sans problème et m'en refumer une à l'occasion.
le probleme est que ds la chambre etait indiqué un prix (pour le petit dej)et au moment de payer , c'etait bien la meme carte, mais les prix avaient ete corrigés(a la hausse)
ns sommes allés chercher le papier ds la chambre, ils ont bien convenus que ns avions raison..et au moment de ns donner la note, c'etaient bien les prix eleves qui etaient pris en cpte!! s'en ai suivi une discussion un peu houleuse!! C'est le principe qu'on a pas aimé, et les prix eleves ne se justifiaeint nullement
la shisha ne fait pas d'effet particulier , mais semblerait aussi (ou plus)nocive que le tabac.C'est la peur de replonger qui fait qu'il ne touche plus a quoique ce soit, car il est certain qu'il repriquerait au truc.Il parrait que c'est si bon (qu'il dit!!)
TU dis que tu ne fume pas de cigarette, j'en connais un aussi, shisha et chichon, jamais de cigarette😉 !!
Pour la nocivité, il n'y a pas d'étude réelle. Une étude provocatrice dit que fumer une shisha revient à fumer un paquet de cigarettes entier. Mais en fait, si on lit dans le détail, on se rend compte que la quantité de fumée absorbée est effectivement la même, mais que cette fumée n'est pas de la même "qualité" que celle de la cigarette et ne contient pas les mêmes cochonneries. Ainsi pas ou peu de nicotine donc pas d'addiction. Et une fumée de shisha plus froide qui serait ainsi moins nocive selon certains. Mais aucune étude vraiment poussée. Par exemple, comparaison de l'espérance de vie des fumeurs de shisha et de cigarettes (toute choses égales par ailleurs) ou taux de cancers du poumon...
Bon ce qui est sûr, c'est que shisha ou cigarette, ça n'arrange pas la santé ! Faut pas abuser comme pour tout.
En ce qui me concerne, j'aime beaucoup fumer le narguile - ce que vous appelez la shisha pour l'Egypte - mais je ne fume presque jamais de cigarette ; ou alors juste pour faire plaisir et partager, mais je n'aime pas ça... Vraiment pas....
Le narguile n'est certainement pas bon pour la santé, mais il ne développe chez moi aucune addiction, j'arrête du jour au lendemain, et pour des semaines ou des mois ; c'est infecte en France, car il faut des braises de qualité.
En ayant lu ce message jai plein d'interrogations car en effet moi j'envisge surement de partir pour la premiere fois seul et en egypte et pkoi pa essayer un combine croisiere histoire de faire 1semaine de visite et 1semaine mer rouge histoire de faire bapteme plingee et visite mont sinai et excursion desert
C'est pourquoi jaimerais savoir si d'autres personnes que moi envisage de partir en septembre en egypte que se soit seul ou a plusieur histoire de former ptit groupe ?
C'est pourquoi jaimerais savori quel sont les meilleure visites a faire pendant la semaine croisiere ?
aucune idée sur les croisieres, c'est le genre de truc que je ne fais pas(qd je serais vieille peut etre😉 ??)
mais si tu parts comme ca, je suppose que c'est organisé..donc , a voir avec l'organisme avec lequel tu parts
Bonjour,
De l'aéroport du Caire, je voudrais prendre un car pour me rendre à Port Said.
Où dois-je me rendre et quel car ?
merci à tous pour vos informations.
Je te remercie de ta réponse.
Par rapport à l'aéroport, je prends un taxi jusqu'à la gare ?
ou bien y a-t-il un autre moyen d'y accéder?
merci pour les infos
Cathy
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Nous avons trois jours pour aller de Fès à Marrakech.
Nous aimerions passer une nuit dans le désert à Merzouga.
Pensez-vous qu'en 3 jours nous aurons le temps de profiter un minimum des lieux?
Nous nous sommes renseignés auprès de différentes agences qui proposent toutes plus ou moins la même chose et nous assurent quelques visites sur la route, avec bien sûr une ballade en dromadaire et 1 nuit dans le désert.
Pensez-vous qu'en 3 jours nous aurons réellement le temps d’apprécier les lieux traversés et que les visites ne se feront pas au pas de course?
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Connaissez vous l'adresse d'une distillerie de fleurs de roses ds la vallée des roses / kelaa M Gouna. Une distillerie traditionnelle, pas uniquement la boutique à touristes.
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!