Back from Yunnan and Guizhou
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
LE
We’re a retired French couple. We’ve just spent 4 weeks in China: - 1. Exploring Yunnan in a group (12 people); a journey that took us from the Vietnamese border in the south to the edges of Tibet in the north. - 2. A private trip to Guizhou with just a driver. We’re absolutely delighted with what we discovered: a modern country with excellent infrastructure (especially the low level of urban pollution thanks to the high number of electric vehicles, the absence of diesel, and no noisy motorbikes in these two less industrialized provinces), friendly Chinese people who were always ready to help us when we had difficulties or questions, and a rich natural and cultural heritage. The language barrier remains the biggest challenge, despite instant translation tools. For both trips, we booked through the agency CIELCHINE, which we highly recommend. The value for money is unbeatable. The services were luxurious, especially for us since we usually travel alone on a tight budget for accommodation and food. The agency’s staff were perfectly competent and, what’s more, warm and welcoming. For Yunnan, our guide SEBASTIEN, who was experienced and knowledgeable, won everyone over. In Guizhou, our driver HUANG was professionally flawless and guided us through villages he knows well. Friendly and full of humor, he’d spontaneously talk to people he met, which made us be treated with much more kindness and allowed us to exchange a few basic words. As you can see, I haven’t ticked anything negative—not because I’m hiding anything or have any ulterior motive, but because I’m completely satisfied and the experience even exceeded all my expectations.
NI Nimou74 Veteran ·
Thanks for this recent account. Yes, the country must have changed a lot. My last visit was nearly 20 years ago. Back then, we traveled completely without an agency, a bit like an adventure. We managed to organize all our excursions through hotels. Sometimes we’d find people who spoke English there... We’re heading back to China next autumn. After much thought, we’re going to apply for a visa since we plan to stay for 40 days. The plan: Gansu, Yunnan with a small part of Sichuan, and Zhangjiajie. Round-trip flight from Shanghai and domestic flights. It turns out we’ll be using the same agency as you for the Yunnan part—highly recommended. No group for us, just a vehicle with a driver to optimize the route. Would it be possible to get your thoughts on the places you visited? Sites to prioritize or avoid? We’ll arrive in Shangri-La from Daocheng in Sichuan, then TLG, Lijiang and surroundings, Shaxi, Weishan, Dali, train to Kunming, Yuanyang, and Jianshui (roughly the plan).

Have a great day, Anne-Claire
LE Lepagelambe ·
We loved everything: the "Wonders of Yunnan" itinerary is very well balanced. The landscapes are stunning and diverse, the towns and sites are fascinating. Actually, we explored Yunnan from south to north, unlike your planned route. That said, I don’t know your interests, and you’ll be traveling in a different season (our guide Sébastien insists Yunnan is most beautiful in autumn). Having no experience in China or any knowledge of the language, traveling solo—like I usually do—seemed impossible. You’ll avoid some of the group’s constraints. The agency’s itinerary is quite concentrated, intense, and active, given the altitude in the north and all the stairs to climb up and down (our group was mostly made up of people aged 75 to 80). The agency staff will answer all your questions directly, and during your trip, the phone they’ll provide will help you avoid any mishaps. As for modern China compared to 20 years ago, the difference is huge. You’re about to discover a country that, in many ways, I found ahead of the West. If I can answer any other questions about Yunnan, feel free to reach out. Safe travels with your preparations. Jean
NI Nimou74 Veteran ·
Thanks for your feedback! 🙂 My travel preferences are in my profile... Basically, I love nature-focused trips and architecture too. We’ve been lucky enough to travel quite a bit, and we go to Nepal very regularly. I just checked out your itinerary. We’ll be incorporating these stops into a slightly longer trip, about twenty days or so. Out of everything you visited, what did you think of Lijiang? We’ve read everywhere that it’s really overrated. And what about Napa Lake near Shangri-La, Baishuitai near the gorges, and the Stone Forest near Kunming? Shaxi is really calling to me... The Yuanyang rice terraces too, but we won’t be there at the best time, unlike you. Oh well, we’ll give it a shot anyway...

As for modern China compared to 20 years ago, the difference is huge. You’re going to discover a country that, in many ways, I found to be ahead of the West.

Oh, I can imagine—and we’re getting ready for it!
LE Lepagelambe ·
We really loved Shaxi, and even more so Lijiang with its extraordinarily flower-filled alleys. You just need to avoid sticking to the streets completely taken over by tourism. Baishuitai is spectacular—a Chinese version of Pamukkale. As for Napa Lake, in the dry season, it doesn’t exist. We saw and walked through some beautiful rice terraces, but not the most remarkable ones in the south due to rainy and misty weather. We made up for it in Guizhou. Currently, activity there is low. Many terraces are planted with rapeseed, which bloomed in March and is now going to seed; the visual appeal is lost. Best regards, Jean
NI Nimou74 Veteran ·
Thanks so much for all these details! Too bad about Yuanyang... The weather’s been really changeable and super unpredictable lately. Last month, we had awful weather in Nepal, which wasn’t always the case in previous years.
PA Patrick91230 Globetrotter ·
Hi there, We’ve been in this region for a month now. It’s changed so much since my last visit 25 years ago—transportation, roads, rail, buses—it’s become modern, I’d even say better than in France. Electric vehicles are everywhere, even the scooters—unbelievable! Tomorrow we’re heading to Vietnam by bus from Nanning, a super green city with beautiful parks—what a great discovery. I also recommend Guilin and Liuzhou in Guangxi for their extraordinary park. In Guizhou, we visited Guiyang for its old town and Zenyuan, which you definitely shouldn’t miss. That city really left its mark on me.
Cordialement, Patrick.
NI Nimou74 Veteran ·
Hi Patrick,

If I understand correctly, a visa was necessary if your trip exceeded 30 days. No difficulty getting it? Our journey should last 40 days. We’ve already visited the Guilin area, part of Sichuan, and Tibet, as well as Xinjiang during a previous trip. This year, we’ll start with Gansu, from Dunhuang to Xiahe. I’ve, in principle, found a car with a driver. Then Yunnan. Big hesitation about the route in northern Yunnan beyond Shangri-La: Balagezong, Failasi? Or even Yading in Sichuan, which would change the route. There’s now a flight from Chengdu to Yading Daocheng. The airport is located at over 4,000m, making it the highest in the world! This country is modernizing at lightning speed...
PA Patrick91230 Globetrotter ·
Hi there, No visa needed since we stayed 28 days before moving on to Vietnam. We’ll be heading back to China in November, but this time entering through Chengdu, which I haven’t visited yet. Then we’ll probably head toward Wuhan, and after that, we’ll see. But I’m planning to stay another 30 days again. 😉
Cordialement, Patrick.
NI Nimou74 Veteran ·
Hello, No visa needed since we stayed 28 days before moving on to Vietnam. We’ll return to China in November, entering through Chengdu—which I don’t know yet—then heading toward Wuhan. After that, we’ll see, but I plan to stay another 30 days. 😉

Hi,

A quick question: Did you travel without an agency? For us, it’ll be a mix of both options since over 40 days, a car with a driver would break the bank! (1200 RMB/day, after all.) We thought about reaching YuangYuan on our own, but once there, we’d need to find a car. Not so simple... Through the accommodation, maybe?
LE Lepagelambe ·
No, I took a package trip organized by CielChine for Yunnan, and I arranged my private journey in Guizhou with the same agency—just a driver (cost: 150 €/day including transport, which covered 1 domestic flight and 2 TGV trips, a 3- or 4-star hotel, and breakfast). I found this rate completely reasonable, especially since I quickly realized that the daily distances and transfers are significant.
PA Patrick91230 Globetrotter ·
Hi,

No, no agency. It’s pretty easy to get around in China. I put the Chinese rail network app on my phone and book and pay for my trains as I go, using my passport as a ticket to enter the stations. Every city has one or more long-distance bus stations, where you can book buses on the spot. For taxis, the DIDI app is essential throughout the country—it’s really cheap. For local buses, there’s a flat fare of 2 yuan (0.25 €) everywhere, or 3 yuan on some routes. I was amazed by how dense the transport network is—it’s incredibly well-connected.
Cordialement, Patrick.
NI Nimou74 Veteran ·
Oops, I was actually addressing Patrick in my last message... Otherwise, it’s indeed roughly the same price.
NI Nimou74 Veteran ·
OK, thanks for the feedback! 🙂 Getting between cities isn’t an issue. However, when it comes to reaching tourist sites that are far apart, having a car is still a huge advantage. Did you make it to the Yuanyang rice terraces? (That’s my biggest question about transportation.)
PA Patrick91230 Globetrotter ·
No, we went straight to Vietnam from Nanning, but from Kunming you’ve got transport options to get there. The train to Jianshui (8 USD) takes 3h30, and there are 2 trains a day—you can book directly in the app. Then it’s a 90 km taxi ride (30 USD). If you’re traveling with a group, it’s still really cheap overall.
Cordialement, Patrick.
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
Hi,

Didn’t you take any photos?
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
LE Lepagelambe ·
Yes, we took tons of photos, but for now, they’re not fully sorted yet.
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
It’s definitely a lot of work. There are so few travel journals about China that I jump on them whenever I see one...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
a modern country with excellent infrastructure (especially due to the low level of urban pollution thanks to the huge number of vehicles

That’s amazing! They must’ve made huge progress in this area! I went to China back in 1986 when there were nothing but bikes on the roads. Every city we passed through was super polluted by factories whose chimneys spewed black smoke day and night. The worst was Guilin… The walls of the buildings were black, and so was the skin of the locals!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
NI Nimou74 Veteran ·
Definitely a lot of work. There are so few travel journals about China that I jump on them whenever I see one...

For my part, I can't wait to go back...🙂 I think it's rare for me to look forward to a trip this much! Why? Who knows... Maybe the lack of information? A country that's misunderstood and underestimated? (Hmm, there's a new topic to explore in "Reflections"... 😉) I might end up really disappointed, though. But my gut tells me otherwise!
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
Hi Jean, I just read your impressions of your trip to China with interest. We're thinking of going to Yunnan this autumn for 3 weeks. Maybe with this agency! I also wanted to know if, for your extension, when you mention 150 €/day, it's for 1 person or for 2... The price is very reasonable, but I was wondering... Looking forward to reading your reply.
LO Locosurf34 Veteran ·
Hi there,

I just got back from two weeks in Guizhou province, and I loved it. I’d already made a quick trip to the north near Chishui back in 2018.

I especially loved the Maling Scenic River Canyon waterfalls near Xingyi and Zhenyuan—total heart-stealer. The view of the twin towers in Guiyang was pretty cool too, along with the waterfalls and caves around Anshun and Libo. Honestly, I loved everything. The one downside for me was the super touristy village south of Guiyang (I can’t remember the name) that felt way too commercialized.

A few stressful moments—WeChat, which I’d unlocked at Marseille airport thanks to some Chinese tourists, got blocked again two days later. AMAP always gave me routes, but it kept saying the internet connection was too weak to show restaurant suggestions, etc. Still, overall, China’s really well organized.

Some apps are must-haves: Alipay, WeChat, Didi, AMAP, Trip.com, and for the more adventurous, the official Chinese trains website. A good translation app is key too! I used Google Translate since I was using my Free mobile data. Withdrawing cash seems safer to me. I had to get a few local bus rides (2-3 yuan) and a KFC paid for by someone else because I ran out of cash and Alipay wasn’t working (it kept asking me to enter another bank card), or places only accepted WeChat payments.

For hotels, I paid between 14 € and 30 €. The value for money is excellent.

I also tried Colorful Guizhou Airlines between Guiyang and Xingyi, then from Xingyi to Libo. The airline is pretty frequent and great (Embraer planes since the flights are short, 20 kg allowance with no limit on the number of bags, and a little snack provided).
PA Parigino Veteran ·
AMAP—even though it always gave me the routes—said the internet connection was too weak to display restaurant suggestions, etc.

The same thing happened to me this summer after about two weeks of using it without any issues.

Some apps are essential: Alipay, WeChat, Didi, AMAP, Trip, and for the more adventurous, the official Chinese train website, plus a good translation app!

I never managed to install Alipay, and WeChat generally worked well (which means it sometimes didn’t). This heavy reliance on apps is one of the few things that really got on my nerves in China—it’s not faster, and it doesn’t work 100% of the time. Even more reason to always carry some cash. Plus, it can lead to unexpected discounts: at a shop where I’d bought a few small items, WeChat payment turned out to be impossible after everything was already packed. The seller offered to let me pay in cash, but I didn’t have enough. She accepted what I had, even though it was maybe 20% short of the total price.
LO Locosurf34 Veteran ·
For me, it was the opposite—Alipay worked fine, but WeChat got blocked after 2 days. Yeah, I’d also recommend withdrawing some cash.

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