Je dois rejoindre un groupe avec lequel nous ferons un circuit dans le nord de Madagascar...
Quels sont les moyens pour rejoindre soit Nossi Be soit Diego Suarez depuis Tananarive, puis retour sur Tananarive ?
Je dois être le 2 sept 2020 à Nossi Be pour démarrer le trek avec mon groupe, et le 20/09 je dois être àTananarive pour décoller le 21/09 à 01:00 du matin.
Les vols entre Tana et Nossi be sont rares et chers.
Puis-je envisager un voyage par la route (debut et fin septembre) entre Tana et Nossibe. Quelle est la procédure ? Voir avec une Agence ? Voir avec l'Hôtel ?
Quelle est la durée d'un tel voyage ?
Il y a 55 ans, j'avais fait ce voyage en Bus Mercedes il y avait eu une escale d'une nuit au bord d'une rivière... C'était fantastique.
Merci de me faire profiter de vos expériences
Cordialement
Moah1012
Par la route, des taxi brousse font le trajet que ce soit pour aller jusque Nosy Be (Ambanja puis l embarcadere a Ankify pour rejoindre Nosy Be) ou Diego. Extrêmement fatiguant car tres tres long et confort taxi brousse. Mais indéniablement la solution la moins chere. Il faut compter 2 jours si pas de probleme sur la route (panne). C est aussi la solution la plus "dangereuse" au sens ou les taxi brousse ne sont pas réputés pour leur conduite sure. Et si ils roulent de nuit c est encore pire.
Il y a toutefois une alternative possible et plus acceptable en utilisant une compagnie Premium de taxi, il s agit de Cotisse. Vous pouvez aller sur leur site et les appeler si nécessaire. A priori ils vont a Antsiranana (Diego) depuis 2019 et mettent environ 30h (donc 2 jours). Si c est cela et si vous choisissez le taxi brousse, c est cette compagnie que je prendrai. Sans aucun doute.
Par la route, l hotel Palma Nova a Ambanja proposait un moment des navettes jusque Tana. Mais il ne me semble pas que cela est encore d actualité. Vous pouvez les appeler pour vous en assurer.
Enfin vous pouvez louer une voiture mais si vous etes seul, c est a mon avis et a la fin, plus cher que l avion. Puisque 4 jours de location (aller et retour a vide) plus carburant aller et retour plus votre hotel et vos repas le long de la route. Si vous etes plusieurs, la ca devient probablement plus intéressant que l avion. A calculer quand meme
Merci de toutes ces informations qui me permettent d'identifier plus précisément le problème. Je retiens l'Agence Cotisse que je contacterai si pas d'autres solutions, mais c'est à Nossybe que je dois retrouver mon groupe, pas à Diego Suarez...
Je viens de discuter avec un autre routard et il me disait qu'on pouvait (il l'a fait) passer par Majunga d'où un bateau nous conduit à Nossibe...
Je pourrais peut-être envisager un vol A&R Tana/Majunga peut-être plus facile à trouver.
Je poursuis mes recherches
En vous remerciant
Cordialement
Moah1012
Cotisse s'arrête à ambanja, c'est juste à côté de nosy be, facile à joindre en taxi.
Le bateau de majanga, ça risque d'être très aléatoire. Il m'est arrivé d'attendre un bateau une semaine. Bien se renseigner , il y avait avant une liaison régulière mais je pense qu'elle n'existe plus.
Rebonjour
Vous demandiez pour Nosy Be et Diego d ou les infos. Mais comme l a dit jasrym, Ambanja (grosso modo l arret pour Nosy Be sur la route nationale) est sur la route de Diego donc évidemment possible de s y faire déposer par Cotisse sur la route de Diégo.
Sinon avion pour Majunga je ne vois pas l avantage. Vous paierez l avion cher (si il y en a) et en outre mettrez tres longtemps. Bref que des inconvénients. Bateau de Majunga a Nosy Be avait du sens quand il y avait le JP Calloch et je suppose que c est de cela qu'on vous parle. Mais ca fait un bon paquet d années qu'il ne fonctionne plus à ma connaissance. Il s est arrete puis a repris mais de ce que je sais, il s est réarreté et n est plus en fonctionnement.
Au delà de ca, pas de solutions sures et simples depuis Majunga en bateau. A ma connaissance encore.
Vous avez écarté d'emblée l'avion mais maintenant Tsaradia propose des vols directs à moins de 100 euros si on voyage léger, 140 si on a un peu de bagages. Pour avoir fait, dans le passé, la route, je pense que maintenant je prendrai l'avion sauf si on n'est pas pressé et que l'on veut découvrir les paysages malgaches.
Bon voyage là-bas.
Voyagez, voyagez, il en restera toujours quelque chose!
Vous avez écarté d'emblée l'avion mais maintenant Tsaradia propose des vols directs à moins de 100 euros si on voyage léger, 140 si on a un peu de bagages. Pour avoir fait, dans le passé, la route, je pense que maintenant je prendrai l'avion sauf si on n'est pas pressé et que l'on veut découvrir les paysages malgaches.
Bon voyage là-bas.
Bravo et merci Nestor !
Tsaradia est une filliale d'Air Madagascar que l'on ne trouve pas en rentrant la demande de voyage sur google.
J'ai donc les vols que je veux aux dates et heures voulues pour un A&R au prix très acceptable vu la concurrence...
Bonsoir
Cela règle la question mais prenez toutefois une marge suffisante pour le retour car il arrive assez fréquemment que les vols intérieurs soient reportés sine die.
En ce cas, on se retrouve gros jean comme devant si on a pas de solution et si pas de marge minimale. Et tsaradia ne sera tenue à rien par rapport à votre vol international pour quitter Mada.
Bonsoir
Cela règle la question mais prenez toutefois une marge suffisante pour le retour car il arrive assez fréquemment que les vols intérieurs soient reportés sine die.
En ce cas, on se retrouve gros jean comme devant si on a pas de solution et si pas de marge minimale. Et tsaradia ne sera tenue à rien par rapport à votre vol international pour quitter Mada.
Bonjour Rotsaka...
Je n'osais pas poser la questio sur la fiabilité des vols...
J'aime bien la formule "se retrouver gros jean comme devant"... Je vais chercher son origine.
Merci pour ces conseils et j'essaierai de prévoir une marge, au moins pour le retour (24 heures ?)
Bonne journée
Cordialement
Moah1012
Je ne peux rien dire sur la fiabilité générale. Mais comme les vols sont sur 2 compagnies différentes, le retard sur Tsaradia vous mettra dans une belle panade puisque l'opérateur du second vol n est tenu à rien vis a vis de vous.
A ce titre, je prendrai une marge conséquence, c'est à dire par exemple ne pas partir le matin pour vol du soir ou de la nuit qui vient. Histoire d avoir le temps que le vol reporté arrive finalement (si c est rapide) ou de bricoler en urgence un retour en taxi brousse si vraiment cela devait s avérer nécessaire.
Peut etre n aurez vous strictement aucun souci. Il faut le souhaiter. Mais je pense que l'on est a l abri de rien en vol intérieur a Mada.
Bonjour,
personnellement si j'étais vous avec des impératifs pareil je prendrai l'avion et au moins une journée avant pas le jour même car sinon vous serez mal.
Pour ce qui est des taxi brousses, il y a toujours des chances pour qu'un trajet prévu en 2 jours se transforme en 3 voir 4 selon les trajets et les pannes.
Eric
qui vit sans folie n est pas si sage qu il ne le croit
Bonjour et merci de ces nombreux conseils.
Je retiens qu'il faut prévoir une marge d'au moins 24 heures... M^me pour l'avion.
Bonne journée et bonnes balades à venir en 2020
Cordialement
Moah1012
Bonjour
Tout a fait d accord pour dire que Tsaradia n est pas une compagnie fiable en matiere d horaire.
Vols retardés de plusieurs heures, avançés, decalés d'un jour ou annulés.Prevoir un ou 2 jours d avance pour vos rendez vous.
Pour avoir eu a supporter un retard de 10 heures j'ai raté un vol exterieur et bien sur aucun remboursement ni excuses.
On vous previens tellement tard de ces changements que vous restez plantés sans solutions de rechange.
Bonjour,
Si vous le souhaitez je peux m'informer auprès d'un ami malgache, Clément, guide et taxi résidant à Tana , équipé d'un 4X4.
Pour vous faire une offre il me faut votre adresse email et postale, et une confirmation écrite des dates qui vous intéressent et du trajet souhaité.
Mon nom est laurent Deleuze et mon adresse chemin du Perey, 3 ; 1880 Bex, Suisse.
laurent.deleuze@bluewin.ch
Bonjour,
Si vous le souhaitez je peux m'informer auprès d'un ami malgache, Clément, guide et taxi résidant à Tana , équipé d'un 4X4.
Pour vous faire une offre il me faut votre adresse email et postale, et une confirmation écrite des dates qui vous intéressent et du trajet souhaité.
Mon nom est laurent Deleuze et mon adresse chemin du Perey, 3 ; 1880 Bex, Suisse.
laurent.deleuze@bluewin.ch
A votre service !
Amicales salutations,
Laurent
Merci Laurent de cette belle proposition.
Je garde votre @dresse au cas où...
Pour l'instant, je mise sur l'avion avec Tsaradia (filiale d'Air Madagascar pour les vols intérieurs).
Bonne journée
Cordialement
AGSag
Je dois rejoindre un groupe avec lequel nous ferons un circuit dans le nord de Madagascar...
Quels sont les moyens pour rejoindre soit Nossi Be soit Diego Suarez depuis Tananarive, puis retour sur Tananarive ?
Je dois être le 2 sept 2020 à Nossi Be pour démarrer le trek avec mon groupe, et le 20/09 je dois être àTananarive pour décoller le 21/09 à 01:00 du matin.
Les vols entre Tana et Nossi be sont rares et chers.
Puis-je envisager un voyage par la route (debut et fin septembre) entre Tana et Nossibe. Quelle est la procédure ? Voir avec une Agence ? Voir avec l'Hôtel ?
Quelle est la durée d'un tel voyage ?
Il y a 55 ans, j'avais fait ce voyage en Bus Mercedes il y avait eu une escale d'une nuit au bord d'une rivière... C'était fantastique.
Merci de me faire profiter de vos expériences
Cordialement
Moah1012
Bonjour,
Nous avons pris en octobre 2019 les vols intérieurs Air Tsaradia : https://tsaradia.com/ qui ont été très ponctuels ! le seul problème qu'on a eu, c'est notre valise qui est arrivée le lendemain matin car la soute était pleine sur notre vol. C'est pourquoi il vaut mieux prendre une journée de battement.
Vous avez un vol de Tana à 6h30 arrivée à 8 h05 à Nosy Be le 2 sept à 115 € (coup de coeur actuellement) ou le 1er sept à 15h40 même tarif.
Pour le retour vol le 19 sept à 8h40 au même tarif coup de coeur.
Je vous conseille vivement l'avion car les routes qui ressemblent plutôt à des pistes sont beaucoup trop pénibles et les taxis brousses bomdés de monde !
Le mieux est d'acheter son billet à l'avance pour profiter des tarifs "coup de coeur" avec une valise 20 kg + sac cabine 5 kg.
Bon trek vous allez vous régaler !
Il y a aussi la possibilité de prendre un vol direct pour Nosy be à partir de la France ou d'autres pays, je sais que pour l'Italie il y a des liaisons directes sans passer par Tana.
Moi j’ai pris l’avion en juillet 2019
https://tsaradia.com/
Pas de problème, juste prévoir des décalages horaires. Moi cela n’a eu aucun impact sur mon voyage retour
Si besoin de passer une nuit à Tananarive
Je peux vous conseiller la maison d'hôtes Mandrosoa, exceptionnelle et bien située.
A Nosy Be n’hésitez pas à faire un tour en quad.
Conseil, il faut négocier les prix et attention aux vols selon votre hébergement, ne laisser aucune valeur.
Nous sommes récemment rentrés d'un séjour "autonome" à Madagascar. C'est un pays magnifique, très varié mais très vaste!!! S'y déplacer n'est pas toujours…
Je souhaite aller au stationnement sud de minibus à Tananarivo. Je vais en direction Farafangana et à Vohipeno. combien coûte le billet en minibus? Je vais…
Nous sommes deux à souhaiter faire un circuit en Madagascar pendant 15 jours et voulons savoir si c'est faisable, practique et conseillé de louer une voiture…
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Hi,
I traveled to Madagascar from May 16 to June 3 with a group (10 people), accompanied by our guide/driver Adrien and his two sons (or "Adrien and Co," already mentioned in previous posts on this forum).
We were absolutely satisfied with the services provided. While other guides we contacted only offered ready-made itineraries with no flexibility, Adrien crafted a highly varied program for us, blending hikes, landscapes, crafts, and interactions with locals. It was an intense but well-optimized schedule that met all our wishes.
The accommodations—sometimes very rustic, sometimes very comfortable—were all very clean. We were on a half-board plan, and our lunches were at small, typical restaurants recommended by Adrien.
Adrien and his sons were super friendly, helpful, and always in a good mood (even when both vehicles got flat tires 10 minutes apart, for example!).
We had plenty of breaks every day, and every special request was accommodated!
We got a great rate: 1300 € per person. On top of that, we added tips for the drivers, pirogue guides, and cooks, as well as our lunches and any personal expenses.
We were lucky with the lemurs—we saw a lot of them!
At no point did we feel unsafe.
Day-by-day details on my Polarstep: https://www.polarsteps.com/moietlechatTraveller/25173082-madagascar-2027
Trip details:
Day 1: Flight from Réunion to Madagascar – night at IVATO HOTEL
Day 2: Antsirabe - Miandrivazo
220 km, about 7 hours
Day 3: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, village encounters, swim in the waterfall, bivouac. Lunch in the pirogue.
Day 4: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, visit to a village and school, bivouac; lunch in the pirogue.
Day 5: Tsarahotana - Bekopaka
End of the river descent. At 9 AM, 4x4, 45 km, 3 hours, ferry across the Tsiribihina.
Day 6: Visits to Parc Grand Tsingy de Benahara (sporty level) and Petit Tsingy (for all walkers)
Day 7: Bekopaka - Belo/Tsiribihina. Nighttime visit to Kirindy Reserve
135 km, 6 hours
Day 8: Kirindy Reserve, daytime visit in the morning – drive to Morondava
100 km, 5 hours on a sandy track; "Baobabs Amoureux" and sunset at the "Avenue of the Baobabs"
Day 9: Morondava - Belo sur Mer by motorized pirogue, 3 hours
Day 10: Belo sur Mer, visit to a fishing village, pirogue ride through the mangroves, meal on the beach
Day 11: Belo sur Mer - Morondava - Miandrivazo
3 hours by motorized pirogue, then 280 km, 7 hours by minibus
Day 12: Miandrivazo - Antsirabe – Ambositra; crafts
310 km, 9 hours by minibus
Day 13: Ambositra - Antoetra, 45 km, 3 hours / Arrival in the Zafimaniry region via a difficult track.
Start of hike to Sakaevo; 9 km; overnight with a local family.
Day 14: Loop hike: Sakaevo, Faliarivo, Ambohimiadana, Sakaevo, picnic at a waterfall, several possible routes. 2nd night with a local family.
Day 15: Return hike, then track from Sakaevo to Antoetra.
Day 16: Drive from Antsirabe to the outskirts of Antananarivo (about 4 hours) – nighttime visit to Andasibe National Park (mouse lemurs and more)
Day 17: Daytime visit to Andasibe National Park, observation hike, many lemur species including the indri indri
Day 18: Visit to the old town, return to the airport.
Don’t hesitate to give him a call.
Has anyone been to this base camp in the Diego area towards the west coast (Mozambique Channel)? The trip starts from Diego Suarez by 4x4 and boat,
with a visit to Nosy Hara and a few nearby islands.
Possible big-game fishing and diving.
Thanks in advance if anyone has info!
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau?
Thanks!
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks!
Gigi
Hello,
We’ll be on vacation in the Seychelles in July and will visit La Digue, Praslin, and then Mahé in that order. Our 21-year-old daughter will have to leave earlier than us while we’re still on Praslin.
We’re hesitating between the following options for her return:
Option 1:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 2:00 PM – arrives in Mahé at 3:15 PM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- The connection is very tight, leaving a 1- to 2-hour safety margin in case the ferry is delayed.
Option 2:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 8:00 AM – arrives in Mahé at 9:15 AM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- This is safer than Option 1, but it means she’d lose the whole day, spending it alone. We’d pay for a day pass giving her access to a hotel pool to kill time.
From experience, what do you think? Are significant ferry delays (2 hours or more) common, especially in July with the swell, making Option 1 too risky?
Or is even Option 2 too risky, and should our daughter take a ferry the day before (though that would mean missing a lot of time with us)?
Or should she take an Air Seychelles flight the same day instead of the ferry? Is that safer than the ferry? But it’s much more expensive…
I know no one can give me certainty on this, but I’d just love to hear your gut feeling from those who have experience with inter-island transfers in the Seychelles.
Thanks so much in advance!
Christophe
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Hello everyone,
Thanks for this amazing forum—I’ve spent hours browsing through it.
I’m reaching out to ask for your help as we’re looking for a destination for our honeymoon.
We never travel outside Europe, so we’re total newbies, but we want to treat ourselves for this special occasion.
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12)
Duration: 2 to 3 weeks
Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan:
- A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches
- We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints
- A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes
- A safe destination
Our thoughts so far:
- New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++
- Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think?
- Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^
- Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options:
- French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip?
- Hawaii: same question—too far?
- Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major...
So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this?
Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason.
Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market.
The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers...
The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there).
The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra.
I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it.
So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast.
Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it?
What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days)
Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights)
Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach.
Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot.
Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina).
Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights)
Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse.
Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights)
Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise.
Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach.
Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days)
Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights)
Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy.
Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire.
Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie.
Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling.
Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights)
Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach.
Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon.
Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery.
Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls).
Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights)
Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach.
Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs.
Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights)
Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park.
Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes.
Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village.
Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?