Getting around Zambia and choosing wildlife parks
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
LP
Hello, We’re planning a trip to Zambia in 2 years. This will be our 4th trip to Southern Africa—the last one this year was Moremi, Boteti, KCGR, and KTP as a self-drive with campsites and no guide, just my wife and me. For this year’s trip, we prepared 2 years in advance—bookings are really complicated. We were lucky to get a spot at Bitterpan in KTP (there are only 4 chalets).

We’d like to know if it’s easy to get around Zambia, especially when it comes to restocking supplies. Should we rent a 4x4 in Zambia, Namibia, or South Africa? Botswana is very expensive. Which parks are the most interesting? We’re into wildlife photography.

Looking forward to hearing from you. Thanks in advance! Best regards, Jean-Marc
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Hi Jean-Marc,

Personally, I rented the 4x4 in Joburg with a return to the same place. Only feasible for a long trip. My reasons were economic (cheaper flights, more affordable rental due to more competition). But also because this trip was an opportunity to return to Kruger, Victoria Falls, and Chobe.

It’s possible, however, to connect to Zambia in two stages: one to Francistown and then one to Kasane.

We only went to Kafue. Great for the atmosphere, but for wildlife, Kruger and Chobe are much more abundant.

We didn’t have any issues in Zambia except once with fuel. You really need to check where the gas stations are!

For bookings, we contacted the lodges/campsites directly online (Zambia-Namibia part). And we avoided camping difficulties in Botswana by staying in Kasane.

You might find more useful info in the travel journal I wrote at the time:

https://www.myatlas.com/Attila/un-landrover-une-tente-de-toit-a-nous-la-zambie

Happy planning!

Agnès
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
LP LPL1993 ·
Hello,

Thanks for your message. We’ve already been in touch a few years back. I’ll check out the site. I’m waiting to receive the Selfdiveur guide and the tracks4farica map for Zambia, then I’ll plan my route using BaseCamp. Thanks again. Best regards
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
There are some travel journals on VF that might interest you:

https://voyageforum.com/forum/carnets-de-voyage-textes-de-voyageurs--zambie/

Maybe reach out to Max68?
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
Hi there,

Getting around Zambia isn’t a problem at all—whether it’s for fuel or food (roadside vendors have you covered). Just plan ahead and do your shopping in the larger towns. As for parks: The most famous is South Luangwa, but it’s far to the east. Driving there is no issue—the tracks are in great condition. It’s divided into two sections, one wilder than the other. Bangweulu is perfect for spotting the Shoebill in a remote, end-of-the-world vibe—really cool. The track to get there isn’t always easy, though.

Kafue is an up-and-coming park. It used to be heavily poached, but wildlife numbers are steadily increasing. The park itself is huge. North of Kafue, there’s a stunning area called Busanga Plains. To the east, McBride’s Camp is also well-known. The Kafue River is massive, and it’s lovely to take an evening cruise there.

Near the Zambezi, there’s Lower Zambezi—supposedly gorgeous, though I haven’t been. We were just across the river (Zimbabwe side) in a park called Mana Pools.

Way out west, there’s Liuwa Plain, but the best time to visit is right at the start of the rains (early November).

For landscapes, we loved Mutinondo.

We also really enjoyed life along the roadsides.

Happy planning! JF/Max
https://apprentisvoyageurs.com
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Hi Jean-Marc,

Zambia is an easy country to visit, but the traffic is denser than in some other Southern African countries. There are also a lot of people along the roads, so watch out for pedestrians!

For the 4x4 rental, we booked it in South Africa—it was the best option for us in terms of airfare and vehicle rental prices. We detailed everything about crossing the border between Botswana and Zambia in our travel journal on our site: https://www.girardinphoto.net/girardinPHOTO/Accueil.html. Though I think the bridge is finished now!

For nights outside the parks, we booked everything ourselves. For the parks, everything was booked on-site. As for supplies, we found large commercial supermarkets in Livingstone, Lusaka, and Chipata. Otherwise, you can easily find fruits and vegetables along the roadside.

For photography lovers, don’t miss Bangweulu for the shoebill, South Luangwa National Park (especially the Nsefu area—night safari 🤩), Kafue for its landscapes, and if you’re near Victoria Falls during a full moon, don’t miss the moonbow 🌈.

For a bit of relaxation, I recommend Kapishya Hot Springs and Mutinondo Wilderness Lodge.

For more info, you can check out our site.
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Hi Jean-François,

Welcome back to VoyageForum! 🤗
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
LP LPL1993 ·
Hello, Thanks for all the info. I just checked out your blog—it’s really interesting. Hard to stay away from southern Africa! Best regards,
MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
Hello Nathalie,

Yes, my first post-COVID post 😉 ... Zambia is worth it.

See you soon, I hope 🙂
https://apprentisvoyageurs.com
VO Voyajou Globetrotter ·
For you, Max, who not only loves Zambia but also its people. An article in today’s *Le Monde*.

In Zambia, a historic drought disrupting lifeFor a year now, the lack of rain in this southern African country has had multiple social consequences. Poor harvests, power shortages, food insecurity: many aspects of daily life are affected.

Ruth Sibanda may be an experienced farmer, managing six plots and around twenty employees near Mungule, 30 kilometers from Zambia’s capital, Lusaka, but this year her expertise wasn’t enough to save her precious crops. The 15 hectares she planted with maize—a staple turned into nshima, a thick, nourishing flour ball—yielded only four bags, far from the expected 120. The same disastrous results for garlic, onions, and beans. Only the chili peppers held up. « This is the worst drought » this elegant and cheerful 39-year-old woman has ever known. In Zambia, the rainy season typically lasts about four months, from November to March. But in December 2023, « the rain came for two weeks, then it stopped », halting the growth of plants mid-development. « Everything dried up », says the farm manager as she walks through one of her fields, its sandy, parched soil. « We faced huge losses, we hit rock bottom », she adds, noting that some local farmers took their own lives. « They couldn’t handle the pressure of watching their crops die, wither before their eyes. » Southern Africa is experiencing a historic drought linked to the natural El Niño phenomenon, considered the most severe in at least forty years. Zambia, along with Zimbabwe, Malawi, Lesotho, and Namibia—a significant part of the region—have declared national disasters. As a result, 27 million people have been plunged into hunger, according to the World Food Programme. The UN agency warned in mid-October of the risk of a « large-scale humanitarian catastrophe ». In Zambia, traditionally a breadbasket, one in four people is now facing food insecurity. Harvests have dropped by 43% compared to the five-year average (50% for maize), according to the UN’s Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO). In rural areas, family farming—mostly subsistence and non-irrigated—is the hardest hit. Many households are limited to one meal a day due to shortages and soaring prices, reports the NGO Care. Maize prices have risen by an average of 40%, according to the FAO. Some residents even speak of prices doubling. « With the drought, we can only afford small bags of maize, which cost more », laments a group of women with drawn faces near Siavonga, in the south of the country. As for water, « it’s a big problem. The village only has two pumps. In the morning, we reserve them for people, in the afternoon, for the goats », explains one of them, Catherine Palamasaka.

Along the road where their hamlet, Bendele, is located, the landscape is dotted with bleached trees and dried-up riverbeds. Every kilometer, large sacks overflowing with black blocks are for sale: turning away from their fields, residents have shifted to making charcoal. « It’s the only way to survive here, the only business », continues Ms. Palamasaka. The work is tough—trees must be sourced « far away, deep in the bush » to avoid trouble with authorities, who have theoretically banned the practice to curb deforestation. But charcoal, sold here for 75 kwachas (2.60 €) per sack, « is what allows us to send our kids to school », she says. When the rains return, this mother of five plans to replant maize but also continue making charcoal, to avoid reliving such « hell ». The irony is that Bendele is only a few dozen kilometers from one of the largest artificial water reservoirs: Lake Kariba. The construction of a hydroelectric dam on the mighty Zambezi River (the famous Victoria Falls lie upstream) in the 1950s created this lake, over 200 kilometers long, on the border with Zimbabwe, which co-manages the hydroelectric power. From the massive concrete arch spanning a lush gorge, the lake still appears vast, but its level has dropped several meters, no longer providing enough power to the turbines. The Zambian side of the plant can, according to the operator, produce only at 10% of its capacity (around 1,000 megawatts). A disaster for the country: Kariba is its main source of electricity. As a result, blackouts now last up to twenty-one hours a day, officially. In Lusaka, the wealthier have generators or even solar panels, but for others, life without electricity means no milk storage, no phone charging, or homework after dark. Many informal workers have also lost their livelihoods. In the Kalingalinga neighborhood, home to welders and carpenters, Benson Simakondo spends his days waiting—even on Sundays—in front of gates and metal structures he can’t finish. His tools sit idle in the backyard. « We come and sit, waiting to see if they bring power, says the 46-year-old welder, father of five. They give us just two hours, sometimes less than an hour. They announce schedules but don’t stick to them. » Often, the much-anticipated two hours only arrive in the evening. What to do? « You go home and see the electricity is back, so you know it’s at the workshop, explains this calm man. If it’s at 6 PM or until 9 PM, we come back and work. But when it comes at midnight or 2 AM, it’s really tough. » Some in the neighborhood had enough savings to buy a generator, but not him. Mr. Simakondo says welders’ average incomes have dropped from about 25,000 kwachas a month to just 1,000 kwachas. « We can’t pay our rent because of this electricity », he sighs, urging the government to act « so young people can work instead of turning to theft, sometimes even stealing from their neighbors ». He also calls on « those in power to plan ahead, because these droughts will return ». The government, like all Zambians, is counting on the start of the rainy season, which is on the way. A few showers have already reached Ruth Sibanda’s fields, but she’s far from declaring victory. Many factors will continue to weigh on production and drive up prices: seeds are expensive, farmers are in debt, the harvest won’t come until April, and the arrival of La Niña—the opposite of El Niño—could bring above-normal rainfall. « If there’s too much water, our crops will likely rot, she predicts, standing before tiny new maize shoots, barely visible. « In my opinion, it’ll take three years to recover from this drought. »

(*Le Monde*, please forgive the reproduction of this otherwise freely accessible article) https://www.lemonde.fr/planete/article/2024/12/08/en-zambie-une-secheresse-historique-qui-deregle-la-vie_6436235_3244.html
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Thanks Jean-Luc for this info about the drought affecting the region.

I’d read articles about Namibia and Zimbabwe and seen photos of the Okavango area, but Zambia and Malawi don’t get much coverage.

This winter, I went to Kenya where it rained abnormally and heavily, causing major flooding—after several years of severe drought in some areas. And some people still say climate change isn’t real? 🤪

PS Sorry Jean-Marc for this aside that doesn’t answer the original question at all 😇
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
Hello Breton traveler,

Still between two hemispheres? 😉

Yeah, this drought is terrible...

Although when we were in Zimbabwe this summer, we didn’t feel it as much—except in Gonarezhou. After that, on our route, there were quite a few lakes; the levels were low, but there was still water...
https://apprentisvoyageurs.com
TI Titaille Veteran ·
Hello Max,

It’s raining in Botswana right now—*a lot*. I’d guess the rain doesn’t stop at the border?

Happy holidays,
Chris

"Alors, t'as fait un beau voyage? Je sais pas, j'ai pas fini de trier mes photos..."
MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
Hi Chris

Good news—even if from what I’ve read, it’s going from not enough to too much!

Are you there right now? Happy holidays to you too! 🙂
https://apprentisvoyageurs.com
TI Titaille Veteran ·
Hello! No, I haven’t been there, but I’ve had fresh news. Some people cut their trip short because of too much water, but the country really needed it.

I just got back from Australia (my 3rd trip)—it’s a pretty addictive place for us, even if there aren’t any lions! 😄

Thanks for your super clear explanations about Zambian parks. A few years ago (3 or 4), I was struggling to find concrete info, and after reading the Owens’ books, I was really interested in the country!

Wishing you a wonderful end to the year!
Chris

"Alors, t'as fait un beau voyage? Je sais pas, j'ai pas fini de trier mes photos..."
CA Catleyeti ·
Hey Jean-Marc,

I’ve been to Zambia quite a few times (2014, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, and 21). My 4x4 was parked in Lusaka and then Livingstone. Zambia was our arrival point for all our trips in Southern Africa.

First, what I don’t know: - where to rent a 4x4 in Lusaka or Livingstone... Most other travelers I met had rented in Johannesburg or Windhoek, with permission to leave the original country. - I don’t know Kafue.

Now for the parks—South Luangwa is a must for me, Liuwa Plains if you love birds, and Kasanka for the bat migration. If you want to see chimpanzees: Chimfunshi.

South Luangwa: I’ve always had amazing encounters there—whether at the campsite where an elephant smashed my car window to steal my mangoes... or a lion in the toilets... or the elephant that circled our tent to snack on branches above our rooftop tent... or in the park itself, where you easily spot lions, wild dogs, leopards, genets, civets, and hyenas. Hundreds of elephants (with small tusks) and thousands of hippos. (I’ll skip the rest.)

There are two "sectors," Mfuwe and Nsefu. For wildlife sightings, I’ve had better luck in Mfuwe.

Campsites are near the southern entrance (Mfuwe) and aren’t too expensive—I always stay at Croc Valley (which was $12 pppn). I recommend a night drive with the campsite.

I don’t recommend crossing the park and exiting north, then climbing the "escarpment" to reach the "Great North Road" with a rental vehicle—especially if you’re not comfortable with rough terrain. We also took the track between North and South Luangwa, and it wasn’t worth it.

Avoid the rainy season: we once left the 4x4 stuck in the mud inside the park and walked back on December 24th... then returned with a tractor to retrieve it... and got the tractor stuck too.

Liuwa Plains: I only went in 2014, at the end of the rainy season, before the bridge between Mongu and Kalabo was finished (it had already been washed away twice). It felt like the middle of nowhere. Tons of birds, hyenas, and one lioness—easy to spot (I think African Parks has reintroduced more since then).

Kasanka: I’m not a bat fan, but the migration is truly impressive.

Finally, the country is huge, so everything is far from the capital. No major issues on the roads or for restocking supplies. People are super friendly and won’t leave you stranded if you run into trouble.

If you have any other questions, feel free—Zambia was my favorite country in Southern Africa... until I discovered Zimbabwe!



Cat
SL Slpb56 Regular ·
Hi there,

You can get around and stock up on supplies in Zambia without any issues. Besides the usual SPAR, SHOPRITE, and other stores, don’t hesitate to buy fruits, vegetables, bread, and eggs at markets or even by the side of the road. For car rentals, our friends rented their 4x4 in Lusaka back in November 2022 (we have our own car). I should be able to find the address for you. The exchange rate is pretty favorable right now. For us, the most beautiful park is South Luangwa—we’ve spent several weeks there over many trips. Kafue is wild, but we didn’t see many animals. Kasanka, the plains in the west, and Lower Zambezi are other interesting parks. If you’d like more info, a phone call would be easier.
slpb56
TH Thierry1961 ·
Hi, Just to share—this summer, my wife and I went to Zimbabwe and Zambia in July-August for 18 days. It was an amazing experience after having visited South Africa, then Botswana and Namibia. As usual, we traveled completely independently, without a guide, and with a tent. First, Zimbabwe with Hwange National Park and Lake Kariba, then Mana Pools for ZIM. After that, South Luangwa National Park and Kafue National Park in Zambia—both really nice and very different. We covered a lot of kilometers, but it was so worth it. In terms of cost, it’s pretty similar to Botswana—just a tiny bit cheaper. The camps were generally decent. If I’d had more time, I would’ve gone a bit farther to Liuwa Plain National Park—apparently, it’s incredible with amazing migrations. That’ll be for next time!
EL Ellobo Veteran ·
Hi Jean-Marc, I haven’t been very active on the forum lately, so I only just saw your message. I went to Zambia last summer—it was a trip like no other. I think my travel journal has a few bits of info here and there that might help with your planning. Happy reading! https://forumvoyage.forumactif.com/t4048-voyage-en-zambie
On me l'a souvent dit, et les photos ? Ben moi je filme !!!
BU Buzuk9 ·
Hi there,

I went to Zambia in May 2023 on a 4x4 road trip with camping gear, rented in Lusaka.

I visited the three national parks: - Lower Zambezi NP (2 nights camping nearby at Mvuu Lodge) - South Luangwa NP (2 nights at Wildlife Camp + 3 nights at Croc Valley Lodge campsite) - Kafue NP (3 nights at Kasabushi bush camp + 3 nights at Mapunga bush camp)

For wildlife photography, pay attention to the timing and aim for the end of the dry season (otherwise the grass is too tall, like in April or May).

Check out my travel journal I just posted!

Happy travels! !
Mes trekkings, mes roadtrips 4x4 : https://wildescapesoverland.com
TA Tara77 Regular ·
Hi Nathalie, I’m planning to go on safaris in Zambia and wanted to know when you can see the shoebill in the north. I’ve been told it’s really hit-or-miss and that the trip isn’t worth it, but I’m skeptical! Thanks for your insight. Tara (Eve)
EL Ellobo Veteran ·
Hi Nathalie, I'm planning to go on safaris in Zambia and wanted to know when you can see the shoebill in the north. I was told it's very hit-or-miss and that the trip isn't worth it, but I'm skeptical! Thanks for your insight. Tara (Eve)

Hi Eve, Last summer I tried to see the shoebill. Didn’t see it. It’s indeed really hard to spot—you need luck. The guides know roughly where the nests are, but for us there wasn’t enough water to go by boat and too much to walk. We’d have needed the luck that it moved a bit that day. We saw some at the rehab center, but it’s not the same. Is it worth it? Big question, since it’s so far away. Cheers,
On me l'a souvent dit, et les photos ? Ben moi je filme !!!
TA Tara77 Regular ·
Good evening Jean-Pascal, Thanks for your feedback... so Uganda really is the must-see! Eve
MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
Hi there

We went in August and it was the end of the period when you still have a chance to see them. It’s magical, so for me it’s worth giving it a try. Plus, we camped in the middle of nowhere with huge herds of lechwe
https://apprentisvoyageurs.com
TA Tara77 Regular ·
Good evening Thanks so much for this positive message.
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Hi Eve,

We were lucky enough to see the shoebill in early August, and as Max68 said, it’s a unique experience that’s really worth trying. And it’s true that the place is worth a little visit just for its herds of black lechwe, which are endemic to this region.
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net

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