Here’s a recap of our self-drive trip in Tanzania.
Tanzania is a stunning country, but it’s changing fast, which means that any self-drive info you gather in advance might be outdated by the time you travel.
Still, here’s some info for future self-drivers.
The vehicle:
After lots of research, thinking, and calculations, we had our 4x4 with roof tents shipped from South Africa through our rental company of two years, Safari4x4Hire. The price for 31 days came to $247.00 per day. That’s cheaper than some Tanzanian rental companies (Shawsafaris: $380.00 per day, total with 18% tax) and just a little more expensive than others (Tanzanian Pionners), but with the guarantee of having a well-maintained and reliable vehicle. You can check out the discussion I started: here
Traffic:
The speed limit is 80 km/h on roads and 50 km/h in villages. Watch out—there are lots of police checks at village entrances (speed radar). In villages and towns, also be careful with minibuses, which are everywhere and stop and start without signaling. As for paved roads, most are in good condition, and many tracks are brand new or being renovated (the Chinese are in the area!).
Campsites:
It’s very easy to find a spot in Tanzanian campsites (few self-drivers), so no need to book in advance (we were often alone in campsites outside the parks). Inside the parks, it’s easy to book public campsites at the gates. With roof tents, the downside is that sites are usually designed for travelers with ground tents, but we always found space for our vehicle. Another downside is making a fire—it’s nearly impossible to find wood (Tanzanians don’t usually make fires for cooking or ambiance). Campsite prices outside the parks range from $5.00 to $15.00 (price with 18% tax). I’ll list the prices for campsites inside the parks below.
Food:
There are very few supermarkets in Tanzania, and prices can be steep if you’re not careful (European brands). For fruits and vegetables, you can easily find roadside vendors. For other groceries, you can shop at supermarkets (Dar es Salaam, Arusha). In Arusha, there’s a brand-new Shoppers Supermarket—clean and well-stocked—and for meat, don’t hesitate to visit the Meat King butcher. It’s also often possible to eat well at campsites with restaurants for around $10.00 (price with 18% tax).
Some other info:
1. At gas stations, you almost always pay in cash, usually in Tanzanian shillings.
2. Park entries, campsites, and Ngorongoro are paid with a card (Visa, etc.) directly at the gates. Exception: Selous, where you need a permit in advance (we didn’t have one when we arrived at the north gate, but we were still able to enter thanks to the kindness of the gate attendant).
3. Watch out—some regions outside the parks have a tax: the Wildlife Management Fee. Payment is a bit unclear:
- For Lake Chala, we paid at the gate in cash.
- For Lake Natron, you can’t pay at the gate—we had to arrange it with the campsite.
- For the area between Tarangire Gate and Lake Burungi (to reach a campsite), you can’t pass the gate without paying in Arusha first.
4. For divers, you can do amazing dives in Pangani with Kasa Divers.
Park entry and campsite prices in July/August 2018:
Saadani National Park:
Park entry per person: $30 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%
Arusha National Park:
Park entry per person: $45 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)
We slept outside the park.
Serengeti National Park:
Park entry per person: $60 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%
We couldn’t get a night in a Special Campsite.
Ngorongoro Conservation Area:
Park entry per person: $60 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%
Night at Special Campsite per person: $60 + 18%
Descent into the crater for vehicle: $250 + 18% (you don’t need a guide to go into the crater).
Tarangire National Park:
Park entry per person: $45 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%
Ruaha National Park:
Park entry per person: $30 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%
Selous Game Reserve:
Park entry per person: $75 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $50 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Night at public campsite per person: $30 + 18%
(You don’t need a guide to visit Selous, but a GPS with the Tracks4Africa map is essential—there are lots of tracks).
Conclusion:
We loved the northern parks, but they’re really crowded, especially with safari vehicles (though that does make it easier to spot wildlife—just follow the cars). Still, we preferred the southern parks—they’re wilder, less crowded, and almost no safari vehicles. In the campsites, you can often find yourself alone (just how we like it 😏!). But both north and south have amazing wildlife and friendly people!
If you’re interested in more info about Tanzania, I’d be happy to help.
In 2015, for my 50th birthday, my daughter and I went to Kenya and Tanzania for a safari. Ten years later, for my 60th, a new African adventure: returning to Tanzania, this time to attempt the ascent of Mount Meru.
After watching documentaries and films about Everest climbers, I’ve always been drawn to the idea of experiencing something like that. I’m impressed by those who risk their lives just to chase their dreams and push their limits (my partner would say they’re crazy). I’ve never pretended I could climb the roof of the world. My sights were set on Kilimanjaro instead. But when my daughter planned our adventure, she lowered my ambitions by a few meters by choosing Meru—and I get it. We’re both very active, but we’re not seasoned athletes. And our mountains in Quebec, as beautiful as they are, don’t offer the chance to climb very high to test our endurance against the lack of oxygen.
So, to prepare physically, I worked my 60-year-old legs daily by walking and climbing small hills near home. As for altitude sickness, I’ll have to trust my system and my old lungs, but it still stresses me out. The departure is approaching, and there’s no turning back—I tell myself that at worst, I’ll have tried.
February 2nd, departure day. We leave Montreal on an Air France flight as scheduled. Luckily, because we were worried, our flight times were delayed, and our layover at CDG will be tight. After a 6.5-hour flight to Paris, no messing around—we have just enough time to sit for about thirty minutes before boarding another 8.5-hour flight to Zanzibar, still with Air France. In Zanzibar, we stay on the plane while pale-faced passengers disembark, replaced by sun-kissed travelers (it’s sunny and warm in Zanzibar). We then take a short flight to Kilimanjaro Airport, our final destination. Exhausted but happy to step off the big metal bird, a driver from the agency we chose (Soaring Flamingo) waits to take us to our hotel, the Tulia in Arusha. It’s 2 AM when we finally collapse onto the mattress. Tomorrow, we’ll spend the day recovering from the sleepless flight, relaxing by a murky pool in a beautiful flower-filled courtyard, surrounded by palm trees and the everyday sounds of Africa. At that moment, I feel privileged to share this experience with my daughter, and I think about the mountain that awaits us.
Hi there,
We’re doing a staged tour of Africa in our Citroën Dyane 2CV.
We left Belgium and our car is currently in Zambia. We’ll be joining it at the start of 2025 to continue on to Malawi and Tanzania.
We’d love to chat with overlanders who’ve already crossed these borders with a vehicle—without necessarily having a carnet de passage, given the costs and guarantees required.
Thanks
hi everyone,
we’re a young couple planning a safari in Tanzania in 2026.
We can’t wait to discover the beauty of the Ngorongoro Crater in Serengeti National Park and so many other places.
Is it safe to travel in Tanzania, and what precautions should we take?
Has anyone used the services of Kiwoito Africa Safaris before? Is it a reliable company?
Your personal experiences and tips are welcome—thanks for your help
Abdulrazak Gurnah, an author with a unique journey and identity (Tanzania)
Big surprise in Stockholm: the 2021 Nobel Prize in Literature was awarded to novelist Abdulrazak Gurnah. The Tanzanian author, who writes in English, is best known for his novels Paradise (1994) and By the Sea (2001). He was recognized for his "uncompromising and compassionate portrayal of the effects of colonialism and the fate of refugees caught between cultures and continents", according to the Nobel Committee.His work moves away from "stereotypical descriptions and opens our eyes to a culturally diverse East Africa that is little known in many parts of the world".
Gurnah is the first African author since 2003 to win the prestigious prize, and the fifth from the African continent overall—following Wole Soyinka (1986), Naguib Mahfouz (1988), Nadine Gordimer (1991), and J.M. Coetzee (2003). Once again, the prize passed over Kenyan Ngugi wa Thiong’o, who has long been among the favorites for the award.
Born in Zanzibar (now part of Tanzania) in 1948, Abdulrazak Gurnah grew up in an Arab family originally from Yemen. He sought refuge in the UK in the late 1960s, a few years after independence, at a time when the Muslim minority there was being persecuted. He wasn’t able to return to Zanzibar until 1984.
Since 1987, he has published around ten novels and several short stories in English (his native language is Swahili). None have become bestsellers, but his body of work as a whole offers a different perspective on issues like immigration and cultural diversity. His work sheds light on the effects of colonialism, exile, and the plight of refugees, "speaking" of his love for Africa and his fight against neocolonialism. Though Gurnah’s stories aren’t explicitly autobiographical, they’re inspired by his life as an immigrant in the UK.
Gurnah was also a professor of English and postcolonial literature at the University of Kent in Canterbury until his recent retirement.
Does this award bring more attention to African literature? Who knows? At the very least, it might give it a boost. If African literature is less visible in the West, it’s partly because it isn’t widely accessible: Gurnah is rarely translated into French or German, and not at all into Arabic.
In Tanzania and its Zanzibar archipelago, he’s being celebrated with joy. "This means a lot for Zanzibar’s struggle for self-determination," says Ismail Jussa, a literary critic from Zanzibar. "It helps put Zanzibar back on the map." The Swedish Committee acknowledged that his work has helped understand "the divisions caused by colonialists, but also the heartbreak of being torn between the homeland one comes from and the life of exile one is forced into."
By the Sea. Bloomsbury Publishing, 2001 (Fr.: Près de la Mer. Galaade Éd., 2006)
before? Is it a reliable company?
Your personal experiences and tips are welcome—thanks for your help
