Trekking in Guizhou Province, Southern China
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
GE
We watched the show "Rendez-vous en terre inconnue" in Guizhou Province, China. Those stunning landscapes really made us want to go trekking in the region. Do you have any valuable tips to share to help us plan this trip?
DA Danniello Regular ·
Yes, it's a really beautiful report. The reporters spent an enormous amount of time finding these kinds of remote villages. In other words, they're still inaccessible for the average tourist because there's no road infrastructure or accommodation. But for backpackers, absolutely.

All the accessible and well-equipped areas are often heavily altered by mass tourism and bear no resemblance to the villages in "En terre inconnue" (Unknown Lands).

I'll be in Guizhou in May. Following the tourist circuit of Miao or Dong villages isn't my thing. I plan to use Zhaoxing—a hyper-touristy Dong village—as a base for comfort, internet, etc. From Zhaoxing, I intend to explore on foot and backpack through the small, lost villages in the mountains south of Zhaoxing. I've created my own highly detailed maps, which are available on my smartphone. I plan to set off for several days on small mule trails, moving from village to village without being sure of comfortable food or lodging. In short, adventure far from the tourists.
JI JianadaRen Globetrotter ·
It’s definitely a stunning place to visit, but it’s not easy. This is China’s poorest province, and tourist infrastructure is minimal (except for a few sites). It’s really tough to explore in an interesting way without some Mandarin skills. I wouldn’t recommend it for a first trip to China.
GE Genetam ·
Yes, really beautiful report. The reporters spent an enormous amount of time finding this kind of remote village. In other words, it's still inaccessible for the average tourist because there are no road infrastructures or accommodation. But for the backpacking adventurer, yes.

All the accessible and equipped areas for visitors are often heavily modified by mass tourism and no longer resemble the village from "En terre inconnue" (Unknown Lands).

I’ll be in Guizhou in May. Doing the tourist circuit of Miao or Dong villages isn’t my thing. I’ve planned to use Zhaoxing—a hyper-touristy Dong village—as a base to have comfort, internet, etc. From Zhaoxing, I intend to explore on foot and with my backpack the small, lost villages in the mountains south of Zhaoxing. I’ve made my own highly detailed maps available on my smartphone. I plan to set off for several days on small mule trails, going from village to village without being sure of eating or sleeping comfortably. In short, adventure far from tourists.

Thanks for your reply.

We’re used to doing itinerant trips off the beaten track, away from road infrastructures, and occasionally doing without modern comforts and technology. Because of this, your adventure of setting off for several days really interests us. Would it be possible, please, for you to share your experience afterward? We’re thinking of doing this trip next autumn. Thanks in advance, Geneviève
GE Genetam ·
It’s indeed a stunning place to visit but not easy. It’s the poorest province in China, and tourist infrastructure is minimal (except for a few sites). It’s really hard to visit (in an interesting way) without some Mandarin. Not a destination I’d recommend for a first trip to China.

Thanks for your reply. You mention: - “tourist infrastructure is minimal (except for a few sites)”. Which ones, please? - “hard to visit without some Mandarin”. Is it possible to find a local guide? Do you have an address? Thanks in advance. Geneviève
MA Marathon Globetrotter ·
It really is a stunning place to visit, but it's not easy. It's the poorest province in China, and the tourist infrastructure is minimal (except for a few sites). It's very difficult to visit (in an interesting way) without some knowledge of Mandarin. I wouldn't recommend it for a first trip to China.

Thanks for your reply. You say: - “the tourist infrastructure is minimal (except for a few sites)”. Which ones, please? - “difficult to visit without some knowledge of Mandarin”. Is it possible to find a local guide? Do you have an address? Thanks in advance. Geneviève

Hello,

I confirm Jianadaren and Danniello’s answers. The village featured in this amazing report reminded me of the hamlets around Zhaoxing, but much more isolated.

I have doubts about the possibility of finding a local guide who speaks a language other than Mandarin, but with the tourist development in Zhaoxing—which was still very remote when I visited—who knows...
TO Toth Veteran ·
Hi Genevieve,

Guizhou really isn’t easy to get your head around if you don’t speak Mandarin. I went there in 2015, around the village of Jiaju. You’ll find several isolated villages with no roads—they even hide the kids when you arrive. No hotels or restaurants either. Take a look at my travel journal here (page 2):

http://voyageforum.com/discussion/morceaux-chine-bout-sichuan-guizhou-d6937738-2/
Ma Galerie Photos
DA Danniello Regular ·
In Guizhou, it's important to distinguish between visiting well-known, well-organized tourist spots and exploring lost villages like those in *En terre inconnue*. On these tourist circuits, don’t expect to find the same atmosphere as in the show’s villages. It’s not easy to mix the two.

In the France 2 program, you see villagers who are super welcoming and very communicative. But the director came three months earlier to prepare the villagers to host the two volunteer tourists. In reality, arriving in a lost village in China is completely different. The villagers won’t come to you. You have to find a way to make contact. Speaking Mandarin definitely helps break the ice more easily. All young Chinese who go to school speak Mandarin fluently, while those over forty struggle with it or don’t speak it at all.

Since last year, a new TGV connecting Guangzhou to Guiyang and a brand-new highway have further widened the gap between remote areas and tourist zones. On this map http://goo.gl/tD8i7u, you can see these tourist zones radiating around Guiyang and scattered along the rail line.

Here’s another map of the main tourist areas: http://goo.gl/DHxGH7

For explorers of lost areas, the stretch between Xijiang and Zhaoxing is where you should go.
TO Toth Veteran ·
I watched the show you mentioned, and they really did find a beautiful spot. From my own experience in Guizhou, it’s not that hard to come across places like that—around the small village of Jiaju, where I stayed for a few days, I was able to walk through or see villages quite similar to the one in the report. That said, staying overnight in those villages is a different story if you don’t speak the local language (not everyone speaks Mandarin in the remote villages). But with a base in a slightly more accessible village like the one I stayed in, you can easily explore these kinds of places without any issues.
Ma Galerie Photos
DA Danniello Regular ·
My last post tried to explain the difference between following the classic tourist circuit and an adventure circuit. Toth, your trip to Guizhou really highlights all the implications and challenges of a truly custom journey.

If you're planning a trip to Guizhou, make sure to read Toth's travel journal. Look for: *Morceaux de Chine, un bout de Sichuan et du Guizhou*

If you really want to venture into remote villages like in the France 2 show, it's not easy, but it's definitely doable. However, this kind of trip requires a bit more preparation and often finding private transportation.

As a photographer myself, I really appreciated your high-quality photos. They make me want to get lost in the depths of Guizhou.
DA Danniello Regular ·
On the other hand, when it comes to staying in these villages, without speaking the local language (not everyone speaks Mandarin in remote villages), there’s little chance that’ll happen.

That’s what I’m gonna try this year.
BO Boqi Veteran ·
There’s no particular issue with finding accommodation in China, even without speaking Mandarin. It’s actually much easier to get lodging in China without speaking the local language than in some regions of India, for example.

I quickly checked out F2’s thing. The Miao is the Chinese name for the Hmong—it’s actually the main ethnic group in Laos. So if you want to meet Miao people, you just need to look for Laotians in France, and 9 times out of 10 they’ll be Hmong.

It’s not as isolated a village as they make it sound. They’re exaggerating the idea of remoteness. For example, the arrival trail obviously isn’t the real path connecting the small hamlet to the road.
TO Toth Veteran ·
Yeah, I think they exaggerate the isolation aspect too, and there’s probably a dirt road leading to the village. To get to the village where I was, we stopped on the road and then walked for two hours through the rice fields, but a dirt road did lead to the village. It’s the same for all the other surrounding villages I visited—they all had electricity and a dirt road. This is China, and connecting minorities by road and electricity is also a way for the government to control these ethnic groups. Even this village—https://www.flickr.com/photos/romimages/16171639631/in/album-72157647312223634/—which was across from my village and looked quite small and isolated, had a road and electricity.
Ma Galerie Photos
TO Toth Veteran ·
Thanks Danniello for the kind words 😉
Ma Galerie Photos
GE Genetam ·
Thanks to everyone for your comments. I’ve been quiet, but rest assured I’m reading all your messages carefully. All your photos are really beautiful. But Daniello’s photos, in a different style, are just as great. Thanks again for sharing your tips. Geneviève
DA Danniello Regular ·
Yes, I can confirm that every village, no matter how small, has a motorable access road. I’ve just planned a route that’ll take me through about ten remote villages. Everywhere, there are these roads that were recently built in a rush. But the old, charming paths connecting these little villages are still there.
GE Genetam ·
I just prepared a route that’ll cross about ten remote villages... But the old, really charming paths connecting these small villages are still there.

Could anyone point me to sources for detailed maps of the area? Thanks so much! Geneviève
CE Cecile285 ·
I’m planning to go trekking there. If I run into any issues, can I ask you for help? Of course, if you’re available
DA Danniello Regular ·
Personally, I use Google Earth, Google Maps, and Baidu.com to plan my hiking routes. It's not comparable to our famous French IGN maps, but I haven't found anything better.
DA Danniello Regular ·
Hi there, Genetam’s post might have inspired some of you to check out this documentary. For the past few days, the DVD of this show has been available on Amazon for around 10 € and on iTunes for about 2 €.

The village’s location at the top of a hill is truly idyllic. I’m sure this show will make a lot of people want to go discover this little village. In the episode, they don’t mention the name of the village (I wouldn’t either, to respect their peace and quiet). It’s tucked away in the YueLiangShan mountains, about sixty kilometers south of Rongjian. With such difficult access, it’s clear that travel agencies won’t be offering it to tourists anytime soon.
PI Pikadiren Regular ·
I quickly checked out the F2 thing. "Miao" is the Chinese name for the Hmong; actually, they're the main ethnic group in Laos. So if you want to meet Miao people, just look for Laotians in France, and 9 times out of 10 they'll be Hmong.

Generally, a Hmong person prefers to be called "Hmong," which means "free man" in their language, rather than "Miao." In Chinese, "Miao" has a pejorative connotation, implying uncivilized or raw (like "young shoot" in the rice fields). Originally, "Miao" didn’t even refer solely to the Hmong people.

http://www.toguizhou.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=show&catid=16&id=25

There are three linguistic groups of Hmong in China (West, Central, East). I doubt those in Laos would understand the ones from the Moon Mountains featured on F2.
«Pourquoi voyageons-nous? Afin de rencontrer des êtres qui ne s'imaginent pas nous connaître une fois pour toute » Max FRISCH

«Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages... mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux» Marcel PROUST
PI Pikadiren Regular ·
Could anyone point me to sources for detailed maps of the area?

Oh, maps!!!

Commercial road maps are already inaccurate. You shouldn’t rely on them too much: http://www.ilc.net.cn/map/GuiZhou/QianDongNan.jpg

Generally, online maps aren’t very precise either.

There are some old Russian maps that are quite detailed, but I’ve forgotten the site. You’ll need to adapt to the unique phonetics.

Billy ZHANG has a large, fairly detailed old administrative atlas of the region. Maybe the Chinese military maps...
«Pourquoi voyageons-nous? Afin de rencontrer des êtres qui ne s'imaginent pas nous connaître une fois pour toute » Max FRISCH

«Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages... mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux» Marcel PROUST
PI Pikadiren Regular ·
You said: - "the tourist infrastructure is minimal (except for a few sites)". Which ones, please? — - "difficult to visit without some knowledge of Mandarin". Is it possible to find a local guide? Do you have an address?

"The tourist infrastructure is minimal (except for a few sites)". Which ones, please? —" When it’s not minimal... it’s because it’s too touristy!!!

For guides at the CITS in Kaili who speak at least English, or even French, you can find Billy ZHANG and WU Zeng Ou.

Billy ZHANG is a Hmong who speaks fluent English and is improving in French (you can test his current level). I met Billy ZHANG (his Hmong name is Vai) by chance in October 2007 because we were staying at the same guesthouse. He’s the reason I fell in love with Qiandongnan (literally Southeast Guizhou) because he told me about a festival that was about to take place in a village with no road access (you had to navigate a maze of terraced rice fields) in Rongjiang District in the Moon Mountains. I hesitated to go. I didn’t regret it. It was 9 nights staying with locals, completely off the grid. The biggest festival I’ve ever seen there. Very little water to wash with, but one of the most beautiful memories of my life (I’ve had others in the region). That’s why I’ve spent 2 to 5 months in the area every year since (this year, I’m "late" to go).

I can’t find his French introduction anymore. Here’s the English version: http://www.toguizhou.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=lists&catid=40 Here’s a non-exhaustive list of festivals in French on his site: http://www.toguizhou.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=show&catid=14&id=56

WU Zeng Ou’s office is next to Billy ZHANG’s. WU Zeng Ou is Dong. (He’s been to France before: https://scontent-cdg2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/s960x960/11794442_1441480326180372_7645766029878104334_o.jpg)

His website seems to be down: http://www.minority-tour.com/

So here’s a backup: https://www.tourhq.com/guide/cn27568/zeng-ou-wu and his Facebook account: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100009552548535
«Pourquoi voyageons-nous? Afin de rencontrer des êtres qui ne s'imaginent pas nous connaître une fois pour toute » Max FRISCH

«Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages... mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux» Marcel PROUST
PI Pikadiren Regular ·
Personally, I use Google Earth, Google Maps, and Baidu.com to plan my hiking routes. It's not comparable to our famous French IGN maps,

Yeah, heading out with just a backpack and embracing the adventure seems best to me... and I don’t have the courage or time to prepare maps...
«Pourquoi voyageons-nous? Afin de rencontrer des êtres qui ne s'imaginent pas nous connaître une fois pour toute » Max FRISCH

«Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages... mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux» Marcel PROUST
GN Gnoomh ·
As a Hmong person who has done some research on my ethnic origins (particularly in China), I’d like to add some thoughts on what’s often said: the meaning "free man" isn’t certain—it’s more of a recent interpretation without real foundation...

We shouldn’t confuse the terms Miao and Meo. The latter is seen as pejorative by the Hmong, but it’s only used in Thailand, Vietnam, and Laos. During my encounters with Hmong and Miao people in Yunnan and Guizhou, no one gave me the impression that the term Miao had a negative connotation.

It’s important to understand that "Hmong" is the term used by some Miao groups to refer to themselves in their own dialect, just as other Miao groups use different terms in theirs. There aren’t three linguistic groups for the Hmong, but rather for the Miao. The Hmong speak one of these dialects—the western one (Yunnan, Guangxi, western/southwestern Guizhou).

The Miao featured in the France 2 show are "Hmu" Miao from Qiandongnan, so their dialect is quite hard for a "Hmong" Miao from Laos or even Yunnan to understand.
SU Suisiya Veteran ·
Hi,

I also spotted this travel agency that’s been around for a while: http://villagechina-travel.com/category/trip They’re based in Guiyang. Even if you don’t want to book with an agency, it might give you some ideas. Siya
2017 nouveautés yunnan tarifs des sites et transport Kunming http://chine-ethnic.pagesperso-orange.fr/
GE Genetam ·
I’m planning to go trekking there. If I run into any issues, can I ask for your help? Of course, if you’re available

Hi Cécile, I posted a message some time ago about Guizhou Province. And finally, we’ve booked our flight tickets for next April... Right now, there are 3 of us going. Have you managed to do any trekking in that area yourself? Best regards, Geneviève
PI Pikadiren Regular ·
Personally, I use Google Earth, Google Maps, and Baidu.com to plan my hiking routes. It's not comparable to our famous French IGN maps, but I haven't found anything better.

In France, I use Maps.me on my phone, but in China...

Following the latest "movement" in this discussion thread yesterday, I just took a look at 高德地图 (Gaode Ditu), which I'd heard great things about years ago. I tested two routes that are "dear" to me:

On the computer version, it looks very clear.

For example, to get to the magnificent Gaopai festival in late December 2007 (9 nights on site), I had to get off the bus at 兴华 Xinghua, then leave the road (Gaopai was far from any roads back then) for a 3-hour walk (in theory, because I ended up taking 9 hours due to "wandering" and arrived in the middle of the night. The women in the fields didn’t understand Chinese. There was no path). On the way back, I followed locals who knew how to walk along the edges of the terraced rice fields without any signs (I think this type of route isn’t accounted for in this software).

Xinghua-Gaopai route: 3h 15, 1km http://gaode.com/dir?from%5Badcode%5D=522632&from%5Bname%5D=%E5%85%B4%E5%8D%8E%E6%B0%B4%E6%97%8F%E4%B9%A1&from%5Bid%5D=B03570N5AC&from%5Bpoitype%5D=190106&from%5Blnglat%5D=108.16245700000002%2C25.831805&from%5Bmodxy%5D=&to%5Bname%5D=%E9%AB%98%E6%8E%92%E6%9D%91&to%5Blnglat%5D=108.182244%2C25.904095&to%5Bid%5D=B0357000TY&to%5Bpoitype%5D=190108&to%5Badcode%5D=522600&to%5Bmodxy%5D=108.182244%2C25.904095&type=walk&policy=0&dateTime=now

Three years ago, I was in 脚车 Jiaoche, a pretty "well-preserved" village that, I was told, isn’t so "preserved" anymore. I knew there was a path leading to nearby Gaopai (for pedestrians but not accessible to vehicles). Here it is:

Jiaoche-Gaopai route: 1h10, 5.9 km http://gaode.com/dir?from%5Bid%5D=B0357001AO&from%5Bname%5D=%E8%84%9A%E8%BD%A6%E6%9D%91&from%5Blnglat%5D=108.204894%2C25.929347&from%5Bmodxy%5D=108.204894%2C25.929347&from%5Bpoitype%5D=190108&from%5Badcode%5D=522632&to%5Bname%5D=%E9%AB%98%E6%8E%92%E6%9D%91&to%5Blnglat%5D=108.182244%2C25.904095&to%5Bid%5D=B0357000TY-to&to%5Bpoitype%5D=190108&to%5Badcode%5D=522600&to%5Bmodxy%5D=108.182244%2C25.904095&type=walk&policy=0&dateTime=now

Well done, Gaode. I haven’t found any paths more clearly marked in China’s mountains.

On the other hand, it must be much less practical on the phone version (small screen, limited battery life, and how to use Perakun or similar for characters you don’t know?).

I’ll check it out during my next trip to Qiandongnan when I go pick up my new passport, which is ready.
«Pourquoi voyageons-nous? Afin de rencontrer des êtres qui ne s'imaginent pas nous connaître une fois pour toute » Max FRISCH

«Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages... mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux» Marcel PROUST
PI Pikadiren Regular ·
Copying and pasting the link below "as is" into the address bar should work better than above:

gaode.com/dir?from%5Bid%5D=B0357001AO&from%5Bname%5D=%E8%84%9A%E8%BD%A6%E6%9D%91&from%5Blnglat%5D=108.204894%2C25.929347&from%5Bmodxy%5D=108.204894%2C25.929347&from%5Bpoitype%5D=190108&from%5Badcode%5D=522632&to%5Bname%5D=%E9%AB%98%E6%8E%92%E6%9D%91&to%5Blnglat%5D=108.182244%2C25.904095&to%5Bid%5D=B0357000TY-to&to%5Bpoitype%5D=190108&to%5Badcode%5D=522600&to%5Bmodxy%5D=108.182244%2C25.904095&type=walk&policy=0&dateTime=now
«Pourquoi voyageons-nous? Afin de rencontrer des êtres qui ne s'imaginent pas nous connaître une fois pour toute » Max FRISCH

«Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages... mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux» Marcel PROUST
PI Pikadiren Regular ·
Same here

gaode.com/dir?from%5Badcode%5D=522632&from%5Bname%5D=%E5%85%B4%E5%8D%8E%E6%B0%B4%E6%97%8F%E4%B9%A1&from%5Bid%5D=B03570N5AC&from%5Bpoitype%5D=190106&from%5Blnglat%5D=108.16245700000002%2C25.831805&from%5Bmodxy%5D=&to%5Bname%5D=%E9%AB%98%E6%8E%92%E6%9D%91&to%5Blnglat%5D=108.182244%2C25.904095&to%5Bid%5D=B0357000TY&to%5Bpoitype%5D=190108&to%5Badcode%5D=522600&to%5Bmodxy%5D=108.182244%2C25.904095&type=walk&policy=0&dateTime=now
«Pourquoi voyageons-nous? Afin de rencontrer des êtres qui ne s'imaginent pas nous connaître une fois pour toute » Max FRISCH

«Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages... mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux» Marcel PROUST
PI Pikadiren Regular ·
And finally, we booked our flight tickets for next April...

In April, there’s the 姊妹饭节 Jīmèifàn Jié (Sisters’ Meal Festival), a festival in 施洞 Shídòng (renowned for its textiles) from April 10 to 13, 2017. http://www.toguizhou.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=show&catid=1&id=223

It actually takes place in Taijiang (where there’s an administration that funds the festival), Laotun, and Shidong proper. https://www.google.fr/maps/place/Qiandongnan, +Guizhou, +Chine/@26.8274151,108.295687,13.38z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x36bc4735621b44fb:0x565795e391383062!8m2!3d26.583442!4d107.982859

A detailed program is released each year with times and locations for the activities.

In Laotun, the hand-fishing in a muddy pond is “spontaneous.” The participants are super motivated. It’s a bit “touristy”—the dance floor is often overrun by Chinese photographers. There might be groups of Western tourists (though not the year the Icelandic volcano kept them at home). Since it was built, I’ve gotten into the habit of staying at a newer hotel at the entrance of Shidong (coming from Kaili). It’s cleaner than the guesthouses in central Shidong. But I come one or two weeks early to book a room—I want to be sure I get one. Prices skyrocket during the festival.

I’ve heard there are some great hikes along the river in the Shidong area.
«Pourquoi voyageons-nous? Afin de rencontrer des êtres qui ne s'imaginent pas nous connaître une fois pour toute » Max FRISCH

«Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages... mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux» Marcel PROUST
DA Danniello Regular ·
From my personal experience, gaode.com and map.baidu.com are starting to be quite detailed, especially in urban areas. It seems that Google Maps (ditu.google.cn) is still better in rural zones, even though it hasn’t been updated in China since 2008.

If you want to post a really long URL on a forum, use Google’s URL shortener. Otherwise, with Gaode, it’s impossible to use a translator like Perakun, which is a browser extension, while Gaode is a website.
PI Pikadiren Regular ·
With Gaode, it's impossible to use a translator like Perakun, which is a browser extension, whereas Gaode is a website.

Yes, you can. In two steps. First, click the name on the map, then hover the cursor over the information.
«Pourquoi voyageons-nous? Afin de rencontrer des êtres qui ne s'imaginent pas nous connaître une fois pour toute » Max FRISCH

«Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages... mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux» Marcel PROUST
DA Danniello Regular ·
Oh yeah, interesting! I’ll give it a try. Thanks for the info
SH Sh Regular ·
Hi there, I’m bumping this thread because I’d like to do a 2-3 day trek through the small villages in the mountains south of Zhaoxing. Could you share your experience, Danniello, please? What route did you take? Where did you stay during your stops? If anyone else can help me get a clearer picture, that’d be much appreciated. Thanks in advance
Notre année autour du monde en 2006 : http://surnotreroute.free.fr

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