Voyage en Éthiopie et fin de séjour à Djibouti 3 semaines fin janvier - début février
by Toulouse
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Nous projetons un voyage en ethiopie mais , amateurs de plongee nous envisageons une petite semaine en fin de sejour à Djibouti.
Ma question est la suivante. Est ce dommage de ne rester que 2 semaines en Ethiopie et si tel est le cas vaut il mieux priviegier le nord et le danakil Ou le sud ?
Quels sont les incontournables pour vous ? Nord , sud, harar ?
Nous n'avons pas envie de courir et preferons prendre notre temps à chaque etape dans la mesure du possible !
Merci de vos avis , je suis un peu "paumée"
Zaz,
Tout d'abord, une question essentielle: comment envisagez vous ce voyage? Seuls, ou en privatif avec un TO local qui peut tout vous préparer selon vos désirs (et votre portefeuille!!).
Attention: pas facile de voyager seuls car les transports en commun (bus) sont lents.
On peut voir pas mal de choses en faisant des sauts de puce en avion, avec guide à chaque arrêt.
Que recherchez vous dans ce circuit? Paysages, animaux, population, sites, villes, etc...? Etes vous trek ou pas?
L'essentiel, pour un premier passage en Ethiopie:
-Lalibela: les églises
-Mekele : -Danakhil- le Dallol et l'exploitation du sel
- Tigray: les églises+ paysages
- Bahir Dar: -les monastères du lac Tana- chutes du Nil bleu
et/ou Gondar:-les chateaux , les églises, le bain de Fasiladès.
- Harar: ville musulmane- son architecture, ses mosquées, son enceinte, les hyènes, l'atmosphère qu'a connu Rimbaud . Depuis Harar, il est possible de rejoindre Djibouti par avion depuis Dire Dawa.
Toutes ces villes sont joignables par avion directement entre elles ou par Addis.
Quant au sud, pour faire une boucle, cela demande du temps (10 jours au moins).
Bonsoir
Merci pour votre avis
Nous pensons faire appel a un TO local trouvé sur un forum car vu que nous n'avons pas un temps illimité nous esperons en gagner en utilisant un transport privatif ( nous sommes 4 , du coup on partage les frais de voiture ) et j'ai de plus l'impression que nous profiterons plus des paysages . Au final il nous propose trois options , nord , nord + harar et nord sud allant de 14 a 19 jours . J'ai un doute sur l'interet du sud en 4 à 5 jours
Combien de temps à votre avis dans le danakil et dallol ?
Nous aimons marcher mais n'avons pas prevu de vrai trek , toujours en rapport au temps
??
Merci de vos conseils
Zaz,
Dallol, 2 jours depuis Mekele. Notre visite date de 2014, dans ce coin et depuis la route est finie pour rejoindre Berhale puis Ahmed Ale- camp de base pour rejoindre le Danakhil et le lac Asale et son exploitation du sel.
En une douzaine de jours, nous avions fait une boucle via Awash (chutes d'eau et réserve anomalière ), Assaïta (marché Afar), lac salé Afdera, Erta Alé, Dallol, Tigray(églises), Mekele, Lalibela (églises), Kombolcha, Addis. Paysages très variés mais certaines journées de route très longues (Mekele- Lalibela en particulier)
Le Erta Alé ne semble plus intéressant à être vu-lave trop basse dans le cratère. Il serait possible d'intégrer Harar dans ce circuit mais il y aurait au moins une très longue journée de roiute ( Harar- Assayta: voir Google earth, version sans passer par Djibouti: plus de 730 km!!); Cela nécessite 2 jours en plus de notre circuit) il faut aller directement du lac Afdera à Ahmed Alé à proximité du Dallol.
Nous étions 4 et avons fait le circuit en 4X4 (d'ailleurs 2, car le 2 ème servait pour transporter le cuistot et le matériel de camping!) . Ce 2 ème 4X4 nous a quitté après le Dallol pour revenir directement à addis, car plus de camping à partir de ce moment là.
Pas possible de visiter le sud en 4/5 jours: trop de route et boucle trop longue .
Bonsoir Zaz,
Deux semaines en Ethiopie sont, bien sûr, insuffisantes pour découvrir les points dits incontournables du pays (Dominique les a fort bien listés) mais permettront de profiter de plusieurs lieux intéressants avant de rejoindre Djibouti. Cette petite république est un haut lieu de la plongée sur notre planète, mais renferme, elle aussi trois ou quatre merveilles terrestres (Lac Assal, Lac Abbé, forêt du Day ou Golfe de Tadjoura) qu'il serait dommage de ne pas voir. Pas de conseil pour la plongée car il y a fort longtemps que je n'ai pas trempé mon nez dans la Mer Rouge.
Comme Doumé, je ne conseille pas les transports en commun, pour un court séjour. Les trajets sont certes très longs dans tout le pays mais sont aussi l'opportunité de rencontrer les gens et de voir des paysages différents et souvent hors du communs, bien plus que faire des sauts de puce en avion d'un site à l'autre.
En 15 jours, tu peux partir d'Addis vers : -a) Debre-Libanos (magnifique vue sur la vallée de Jemma, balade possible), Bahar-Dar (chutes du Nil et Lac Tana), Gondar (visite de la ville = une journée), Montagne du Simien (voiture et petite rando entre Debark et Chennek), Axoum (en une journée on peut voir l'essentiel), le Ghéralta (visite des églises et surtout des paysages à couper le souffle : principalement Abuna Yemata Guh et Mikael Korkor = 2 jours), Mekele pour la découverte du Dallol et du Erta-Alé si cela vaut le coup, puis redescendre vers Awash pour rejoindre Dire-Dawa et prendre un vol vers Djibouti ou emprunter le nouveau train, si il fonctionne ? Tu n'auras sans doute pas le temps de faire un saut à Harar toute proche : dommage ! -b) d'Addis, remonter vers Lalibela par la route centrale, assez peu empruntée par les TO mais la plus spectaculaire, compter 2 jours (Muka-Tori, Lemi, Woreilu qui peut être une étape, Tenta près de Magdala chargée d'histoire, Gashema), visite des églises de Lalibela (peut se faire en une journée si l'on est juste curieux du savoir-faire de l'époque, plus si on est fana d'art religieux), continuer au nord vers Sekota puis Abiy-Adi puis à l'Est vers Mekele, virée dans le Ghéralta (qui est parmi mes favoris) comme dit ci-dessus (2 jours), puis le Dallol et le Erta-Alé. Il te restera quelques jours pour rejoindre ta destination finale via le Lac Afrera, peut-être un crochet à Asayita, Awash, Dire-Dawa et un saut à Harar (1 ou 2 jours).
Si tu aimes l'aventure, tu peux quitter ton chauffeur vers Sardo (à proximité d'Asayita) et sauter dans un bus qui te conduira à Djibouti via Yoboki et Dikhil. Dans ce cas là, ni d'Awash, ni de Dire-Dawa et bien sûr d'Harar.
Le sud est moins spectaculaire et à mon sens très galvaudé en ce qui concerne la fameuse Vallée de l'Omo qui a perdu une grande partie de son authenticité, par contre, les pays Dorze et Konso vers et au sud d'Arba-Minch me sont apparus moins pollués par le tourisme. Le lac Chamo est l'un des plus beaux sites d'Ethiopie, les Montagnes du Balé sont fantastiques, le canyon du Wabe Shebelle et les grottes de Sof Omar dans le même secteur sont superbes.
Pour un premier voyage, je conseillerai plutôt les premières options, plus classiques.
Pour toutes ces possibilités, tu peux passer par un tour-opérateur qui organisera l'ensemble de l'itinéraire ou ne louer par une agence qu'une voiture et son chauffeur anglophone, obligatoirement ou francophone ce qui est plus rare. Je voyage ainsi depuis plusieurs années sans rien réserver car ça me laisse la possibilité d'aller sans contrainte, de découvrir des endroits peu ou pas visités par les voyageurs. Un bon chauffeur connaît tous les sites et leurs guides locaux, tous les restaurants et tous les hôtels, il saura dénicher ceux qui conviendront à ta bourse.
Bien cordialement et bonne préparation. Jacky.
"Moins faire pour mieux voir !"
Deux semaines en Ethiopie sont, bien sûr, insuffisantes pour découvrir les points dits incontournables du pays (Dominique les a fort bien listés) mais permettront de profiter de plusieurs lieux intéressants avant de rejoindre Djibouti. Cette petite république est un haut lieu de la plongée sur notre planète, mais renferme, elle aussi trois ou quatre merveilles terrestres (Lac Assal, Lac Abbé, forêt du Day ou Golfe de Tadjoura) qu'il serait dommage de ne pas voir. Pas de conseil pour la plongée car il y a fort longtemps que je n'ai pas trempé mon nez dans la Mer Rouge.
Comme Doumé, je ne conseille pas les transports en commun, pour un court séjour. Les trajets sont certes très longs dans tout le pays mais sont aussi l'opportunité de rencontrer les gens et de voir des paysages différents et souvent hors du communs, bien plus que faire des sauts de puce en avion d'un site à l'autre.
En 15 jours, tu peux partir d'Addis vers : -a) Debre-Libanos (magnifique vue sur la vallée de Jemma, balade possible), Bahar-Dar (chutes du Nil et Lac Tana), Gondar (visite de la ville = une journée), Montagne du Simien (voiture et petite rando entre Debark et Chennek), Axoum (en une journée on peut voir l'essentiel), le Ghéralta (visite des églises et surtout des paysages à couper le souffle : principalement Abuna Yemata Guh et Mikael Korkor = 2 jours), Mekele pour la découverte du Dallol et du Erta-Alé si cela vaut le coup, puis redescendre vers Awash pour rejoindre Dire-Dawa et prendre un vol vers Djibouti ou emprunter le nouveau train, si il fonctionne ? Tu n'auras sans doute pas le temps de faire un saut à Harar toute proche : dommage ! -b) d'Addis, remonter vers Lalibela par la route centrale, assez peu empruntée par les TO mais la plus spectaculaire, compter 2 jours (Muka-Tori, Lemi, Woreilu qui peut être une étape, Tenta près de Magdala chargée d'histoire, Gashema), visite des églises de Lalibela (peut se faire en une journée si l'on est juste curieux du savoir-faire de l'époque, plus si on est fana d'art religieux), continuer au nord vers Sekota puis Abiy-Adi puis à l'Est vers Mekele, virée dans le Ghéralta (qui est parmi mes favoris) comme dit ci-dessus (2 jours), puis le Dallol et le Erta-Alé. Il te restera quelques jours pour rejoindre ta destination finale via le Lac Afrera, peut-être un crochet à Asayita, Awash, Dire-Dawa et un saut à Harar (1 ou 2 jours).
Si tu aimes l'aventure, tu peux quitter ton chauffeur vers Sardo (à proximité d'Asayita) et sauter dans un bus qui te conduira à Djibouti via Yoboki et Dikhil. Dans ce cas là, ni d'Awash, ni de Dire-Dawa et bien sûr d'Harar.
Le sud est moins spectaculaire et à mon sens très galvaudé en ce qui concerne la fameuse Vallée de l'Omo qui a perdu une grande partie de son authenticité, par contre, les pays Dorze et Konso vers et au sud d'Arba-Minch me sont apparus moins pollués par le tourisme. Le lac Chamo est l'un des plus beaux sites d'Ethiopie, les Montagnes du Balé sont fantastiques, le canyon du Wabe Shebelle et les grottes de Sof Omar dans le même secteur sont superbes.
Pour un premier voyage, je conseillerai plutôt les premières options, plus classiques.
Pour toutes ces possibilités, tu peux passer par un tour-opérateur qui organisera l'ensemble de l'itinéraire ou ne louer par une agence qu'une voiture et son chauffeur anglophone, obligatoirement ou francophone ce qui est plus rare. Je voyage ainsi depuis plusieurs années sans rien réserver car ça me laisse la possibilité d'aller sans contrainte, de découvrir des endroits peu ou pas visités par les voyageurs. Un bon chauffeur connaît tous les sites et leurs guides locaux, tous les restaurants et tous les hôtels, il saura dénicher ceux qui conviendront à ta bourse.
Bien cordialement et bonne préparation. Jacky.
"Moins faire pour mieux voir !"
Yol + D'Jack
Super, Merci pour cette reponse tres precise , difficile de se decider sur le trajet prevu
Nous hesitons encore sur le fait de rester trois semaines en Ethiopie ou de terminer par Djibouti ...on n'a pas envie de se "disperser " mais on a bien envie de mer
Bien tentée par la formule voiture chauffeur , est ce facile en Ethiopie ?
Nous avons deja voyagé à plusieurs reprises avec cette formule mais plutot en Asie ou Amerique du sud !
Connais tu de petits treks interessants ? Au final Lalibela deux jours ca suffit ?
Encore merci
Merci beaucoup pour votre reponse
Nous sommes 4 et prevoyons un TO local ou une location voiture chauffeur
Vous aviez pris une voiture ou un tour complet ?
Merci
Bonne soiree
Un tour complet privatif, en 2014. Le sud avec le même TO en 2012.Notre premier voyage en Ethiopie date de 2008 avec un autre TO: pour ce circuit, nous avons fait des sauts de puce en avion et avions un chauffeur/guide à chaque aéroport.
Bonsoir Zaz,
Nous avons réalisé plusieurs voyages en Ethiopie, toujours avec une voiture de location + chauffeur sans jamais réserver nos points de chute à quelques exceptions près. Il faut pour cela tomber sur un bon chauffeur parlant au moins l'anglais et connaître son itinéraire, laissant un peu de place à la fantaisie et à l'imprévu, c'est le charme de ce type de choix. Nous n'avons pas toujours suivi l'itinéraire de base car nous sommes restés parfois plus longtemps dans certains sites et en avons sauté d'autres pour arriver à l'heure à l'aéroport. Le chauffeur sera là pour décider si les distances (7/8 heures) sont raisonnables ou pas, si il peut y avoir des problèmes ou autres. Il faut, bien sûr, insister un peu parfois, car si il n'a pas envie, il dira que ce n'est pas possible ! Nous connaissons assez bien le pays maintenant, mais ce n'était pas le cas lors des premiers périples : on s'est toujours bien débrouillé, même si parfois on est tombé dans des bouges presque infâmes (une taie d'oreiller et un sac à viande léger peuvent palier à la propreté parfois limite des hébergements). L'Ethiopie change à vitesse grand V.
Si tu arrives à Lalibela en fin d'après-midi, la journée du lendemain sera suffisante pour découvrir les églises, un secteur le matin et un l'après-midi. Le droit d'entrée, assez élevé, t'autorise à revenir le lendemain. Belles balades dans les montagnes environnantes et grand trek dans le Massif de l'Abune Yossef voisin.
On peut se balader un peu partout en Ethiopie mais rarement seul , un guide proposera toujours ses services et les mômes espéreront tirer un pourboire des touristes. - A Debre-Libanos, on peut marcher le long de la rivière vers l'amont ou descendre au fond de la Jemma Valley mais il faudra remonter 1000 mètres ou plus (c'est magnifique). L'Ethio-German Park Hotel est remarquablement perché au bord de la falaise (un peu cher). - Le Simien est un haut lieu de la randonnée sur plusieurs jours mais on peut se balader entre Debark et Chennek, les chauffeurs savent où cela est possible : il te dépose à un endroit et te récupère plusieurs km plus loin. - A Chennek, tu peux escalader le Mont Bwahit (+ 4400 m) et avec un peu de chance croiser des ibex et des loups. Il existe plusieurs itinéraires, un classique et un en longeant l'escarpement, hors sentier, que personne n'emprunte : une merveille si le temps est de la partie. Il peut faire très froid là-haut (20 cm de neige en octobre). - Autour du Simien Lodge, les montagnes sont propices aux musards, les géladas y sont très nombreux. - Aux chutes du Nil Bleu, la marche d'approche est agréable bien que les marchands du temple se soient installés le long du parcours. Le retour peut se faire en empruntant le pont de singe puis en traversant le fleuve en barque. - Le Ghéralta avec ses paysages exceptionnels est aussi propice à la flânerie. L'accès aux églises d'Abuna Yemata Guh et de Mikael Korkor demandent chacun quelques heures, un sentier relie les deux mais un guide est nécessaire (demander avant d'entamer l'une ou l'autre balade). Si tu entreprends cette virée, il est préférable de commencer par Mikael Korkor. Prévoir un taxi pour revenir au point de départ. - Il existe de nombreuses églises dans le Ghéralta, toutes plus ou moins difficiles d'accès. Même si on n'est pas fana de religion, ces églises sont étonnantes et les sites sont de toutes beautés. Le Lodge éponyme est une belle adresse pour une halte mais est souvent complet. - On peut se promener dans les montagnes d'Agame aux environs d'Adigrat (superbes), dans le Tembien et le Workamba voisins du Ghéralta, toujours pour découvrir les églises. - Dans le sud, le Balé est bien sûr un haut lieu de la randonnée mais on peut y faire de courtes balades y compris vers les grottes, presque voisines, de Sof Omar. - Magdala ou Makada Hills près du village de Tenta est un site remarquable et le chemin qui conduit de la ville au sommet de l'Amba est vraiment très beau (sur la piste "intérieure" conduisant à Lalibela)..
Il existe bien sûr un tas d'autres possibilités que tu rencontreras au cours de ton périple au départ des hôtels ou villes étapes.
Bonne promenade. Jacky.
"Moins faire pour mieux voir !"
PS : je pense que tu connais le guide Bradt, c'est le mieux documenté sur l'Ethiopie + voir les updates sur le site. Le guide Olizane en français est lui aussi excellent et plus culturel, remarquablement détaillé sur la route dite historique des Hauts Plateaux. Les autres sont un peu moins intéressants (ce n'est que mon opinion).
Nous avons réalisé plusieurs voyages en Ethiopie, toujours avec une voiture de location + chauffeur sans jamais réserver nos points de chute à quelques exceptions près. Il faut pour cela tomber sur un bon chauffeur parlant au moins l'anglais et connaître son itinéraire, laissant un peu de place à la fantaisie et à l'imprévu, c'est le charme de ce type de choix. Nous n'avons pas toujours suivi l'itinéraire de base car nous sommes restés parfois plus longtemps dans certains sites et en avons sauté d'autres pour arriver à l'heure à l'aéroport. Le chauffeur sera là pour décider si les distances (7/8 heures) sont raisonnables ou pas, si il peut y avoir des problèmes ou autres. Il faut, bien sûr, insister un peu parfois, car si il n'a pas envie, il dira que ce n'est pas possible ! Nous connaissons assez bien le pays maintenant, mais ce n'était pas le cas lors des premiers périples : on s'est toujours bien débrouillé, même si parfois on est tombé dans des bouges presque infâmes (une taie d'oreiller et un sac à viande léger peuvent palier à la propreté parfois limite des hébergements). L'Ethiopie change à vitesse grand V.
Si tu arrives à Lalibela en fin d'après-midi, la journée du lendemain sera suffisante pour découvrir les églises, un secteur le matin et un l'après-midi. Le droit d'entrée, assez élevé, t'autorise à revenir le lendemain. Belles balades dans les montagnes environnantes et grand trek dans le Massif de l'Abune Yossef voisin.
On peut se balader un peu partout en Ethiopie mais rarement seul , un guide proposera toujours ses services et les mômes espéreront tirer un pourboire des touristes. - A Debre-Libanos, on peut marcher le long de la rivière vers l'amont ou descendre au fond de la Jemma Valley mais il faudra remonter 1000 mètres ou plus (c'est magnifique). L'Ethio-German Park Hotel est remarquablement perché au bord de la falaise (un peu cher). - Le Simien est un haut lieu de la randonnée sur plusieurs jours mais on peut se balader entre Debark et Chennek, les chauffeurs savent où cela est possible : il te dépose à un endroit et te récupère plusieurs km plus loin. - A Chennek, tu peux escalader le Mont Bwahit (+ 4400 m) et avec un peu de chance croiser des ibex et des loups. Il existe plusieurs itinéraires, un classique et un en longeant l'escarpement, hors sentier, que personne n'emprunte : une merveille si le temps est de la partie. Il peut faire très froid là-haut (20 cm de neige en octobre). - Autour du Simien Lodge, les montagnes sont propices aux musards, les géladas y sont très nombreux. - Aux chutes du Nil Bleu, la marche d'approche est agréable bien que les marchands du temple se soient installés le long du parcours. Le retour peut se faire en empruntant le pont de singe puis en traversant le fleuve en barque. - Le Ghéralta avec ses paysages exceptionnels est aussi propice à la flânerie. L'accès aux églises d'Abuna Yemata Guh et de Mikael Korkor demandent chacun quelques heures, un sentier relie les deux mais un guide est nécessaire (demander avant d'entamer l'une ou l'autre balade). Si tu entreprends cette virée, il est préférable de commencer par Mikael Korkor. Prévoir un taxi pour revenir au point de départ. - Il existe de nombreuses églises dans le Ghéralta, toutes plus ou moins difficiles d'accès. Même si on n'est pas fana de religion, ces églises sont étonnantes et les sites sont de toutes beautés. Le Lodge éponyme est une belle adresse pour une halte mais est souvent complet. - On peut se promener dans les montagnes d'Agame aux environs d'Adigrat (superbes), dans le Tembien et le Workamba voisins du Ghéralta, toujours pour découvrir les églises. - Dans le sud, le Balé est bien sûr un haut lieu de la randonnée mais on peut y faire de courtes balades y compris vers les grottes, presque voisines, de Sof Omar. - Magdala ou Makada Hills près du village de Tenta est un site remarquable et le chemin qui conduit de la ville au sommet de l'Amba est vraiment très beau (sur la piste "intérieure" conduisant à Lalibela)..
Il existe bien sûr un tas d'autres possibilités que tu rencontreras au cours de ton périple au départ des hôtels ou villes étapes.
Bonne promenade. Jacky.
"Moins faire pour mieux voir !"
PS : je pense que tu connais le guide Bradt, c'est le mieux documenté sur l'Ethiopie + voir les updates sur le site. Le guide Olizane en français est lui aussi excellent et plus culturel, remarquablement détaillé sur la route dite historique des Hauts Plateaux. Les autres sont un peu moins intéressants (ce n'est que mon opinion).
Yol + D'Jack
Bonjour Jacky
Merci pour toutes ces infos.
Notre voyage se précise et nous avons "abandonné" Djibouti .Ce sera pour un autre voyage...
Nous allons faire un tour classique avec une virée dans le Dallol et Danakil sans le volcan Erta Ale puis descendre sur Bati (marché sympa parait il ) awash et Harar
Le tout en voiture
Juste un petit doute sur Harar ? Interet ?securité?
Qu'en penses tu ? si on lit le site des affaires etrangères , on ne va pas en Ethiopie au final !!!
Merci Bonne journee
Merci Bonne journee
Bonsoir Zaz,
Bati est effectivement un marché fort attrayant, l'un des plus intéressants d'Ethiopie. Il fonctionne un peu tous les jours mais celui du lundi, je crois, est le plus important. Je pense que ce sera après le Dallol et, peut-être le Erta-Alé que vous vous y rendrez en suivant la route d'Afrera (un détour pour admirer ce lac vaut le coup), la route rejoint ensuite Serdo sur le grand axe de Djibouti où la circulation des camions est dense. L'itinéraire qui traverse le Pays Afar manque parfois d'attrait. Pour rejoindre Bati, il suffit de suivre vers le sud jusqu'à Mille et de prendre la direction de Kombolcha. Ensuite, si tu désires aller vers Harrar en empruntant un chemin partiellement insolite : - Tu remontes à Kombolcha et tu suis la grande route en direction Addis-Ababa jusqu'au village d'Ataye. Là, sur la droite, une nouvelle piste, fort pentue, remonte dans un magnifique décor, hors des circuits touristiques vers Mehal-Meda (hôtel très très sommaire) et surtout vers le Plateau de Guassa où existe un lodge rustique où il faut prévoir son casse-croûte (randonnée en haute montagne 3000 à 3800 m, rencontre avec géladas et loups d'Abyssinie) : l'un de mes endroits préférés. - Ensuite, tu retournes sur la grande route vers Debré-Sina en traversant de superbes paysages et le col de Termabir, quelques km plus loin tu arriveras à la Fenêtre Afar, paysage spectaculaire sur l'une des plus grandes failles des Hauts Plateaux. - Tu continues sur la grande route jusqu'à Debré-Birhan, bifurques à gauche jusqu'à Ankober. Une piste sympa descend dans le bas pays jusqu'à proximité du parc d'Awash via Aliyu Amba (tu peux te balader sur les hauteurs d'Ankober et même descendre à pied jusqu'à Aliyu-Amba où pourrais t'attendre ton chauffeur = 3 à 4 heures de marche fort agréable). - Après il n'y a guère qu'une route pour rejoindre Harar avec quelques points d'intérêt dont le Parc d'Awash (j'ai un faible car il fut mon premier point de chute en Ethiopie : c'est sentimental) oiseaux mais une faune assez pauvre. Le lac Beseka (joli coup d'oeil) avec Aga Edu Hyena Cave (site très insolite à voir au coucher du soleil lorsque les hyènes partent à la chasse). Après Mieso, la route monte sur les jolis Monts Ahmar, passe à Kulubi avec une église étonnante puis vers le Lac Alemaya, riche en oiseaux mais parfois à sec.
Harar est une ville qui ne manque pas d'intérêt, totalement différente de toutes les autres villes du pays mais surtout la plus originale. Le festin des hyènes sous les remparts, bien que proche d'un numéro de cirque, ne laisse pas indifférent. N'avons jamais rencontré de problème lors de chacune de nos visites, Harar et la route décrite ci-dessus sont tranquilles, un peu moins la région vers l'Est parfois secouée par les rixes opposant Somalis et Oromos, c'est aussi la route des Go-Fast trafiquant le khat entre l'Ethiopie et le Somaliland. En 2015 et même avant, le ministère déconseillait le secteur ce qui était réel en 2018 puisque nous avons dû annuler notre voyage en Ethiopie car le parc de Gambela à l'Ouest et le sanctuaire de Babile à l'Est étaient très instables, Harar n'était pas touchée par ces troubles.
Voilà quelques idées pour établir ton circuit, mais il y en a d'autres si, par exemple, tu remontes à Mekele après le Dallol et redescends jusqu'à Addis avant d'aller à Harar, incluant le détour A&R vers Bati : très jolis paysages tout au long du chemin, lac Ashenge, lac Haik, petit détour vers Koremash (paysage impressionnant et balade possible le long de l'escarpement), puis les lacs de cratères vers Bishoftu + bien sûr, Guassa et la Fenêtre Afar, comme décrits ci-dessus. + si, en fonction de ton choix, il te reste une paire de jours, le Mont Wenchi sur la route ouest vers Ambo (Quelques heures) est vraiment magnifique. On peut faire une belle balade en descendant au fond de la caldeira et en musardant dans les hameaux ou au bord du lac (un bon chauffeur descendra en voiture si la piste bien pentue n'est pas détrempée par la pluie).
Bien cordialement. Jety34
"Moins faire pour mieux voir !"
Bati est effectivement un marché fort attrayant, l'un des plus intéressants d'Ethiopie. Il fonctionne un peu tous les jours mais celui du lundi, je crois, est le plus important. Je pense que ce sera après le Dallol et, peut-être le Erta-Alé que vous vous y rendrez en suivant la route d'Afrera (un détour pour admirer ce lac vaut le coup), la route rejoint ensuite Serdo sur le grand axe de Djibouti où la circulation des camions est dense. L'itinéraire qui traverse le Pays Afar manque parfois d'attrait. Pour rejoindre Bati, il suffit de suivre vers le sud jusqu'à Mille et de prendre la direction de Kombolcha. Ensuite, si tu désires aller vers Harrar en empruntant un chemin partiellement insolite : - Tu remontes à Kombolcha et tu suis la grande route en direction Addis-Ababa jusqu'au village d'Ataye. Là, sur la droite, une nouvelle piste, fort pentue, remonte dans un magnifique décor, hors des circuits touristiques vers Mehal-Meda (hôtel très très sommaire) et surtout vers le Plateau de Guassa où existe un lodge rustique où il faut prévoir son casse-croûte (randonnée en haute montagne 3000 à 3800 m, rencontre avec géladas et loups d'Abyssinie) : l'un de mes endroits préférés. - Ensuite, tu retournes sur la grande route vers Debré-Sina en traversant de superbes paysages et le col de Termabir, quelques km plus loin tu arriveras à la Fenêtre Afar, paysage spectaculaire sur l'une des plus grandes failles des Hauts Plateaux. - Tu continues sur la grande route jusqu'à Debré-Birhan, bifurques à gauche jusqu'à Ankober. Une piste sympa descend dans le bas pays jusqu'à proximité du parc d'Awash via Aliyu Amba (tu peux te balader sur les hauteurs d'Ankober et même descendre à pied jusqu'à Aliyu-Amba où pourrais t'attendre ton chauffeur = 3 à 4 heures de marche fort agréable). - Après il n'y a guère qu'une route pour rejoindre Harar avec quelques points d'intérêt dont le Parc d'Awash (j'ai un faible car il fut mon premier point de chute en Ethiopie : c'est sentimental) oiseaux mais une faune assez pauvre. Le lac Beseka (joli coup d'oeil) avec Aga Edu Hyena Cave (site très insolite à voir au coucher du soleil lorsque les hyènes partent à la chasse). Après Mieso, la route monte sur les jolis Monts Ahmar, passe à Kulubi avec une église étonnante puis vers le Lac Alemaya, riche en oiseaux mais parfois à sec.
Harar est une ville qui ne manque pas d'intérêt, totalement différente de toutes les autres villes du pays mais surtout la plus originale. Le festin des hyènes sous les remparts, bien que proche d'un numéro de cirque, ne laisse pas indifférent. N'avons jamais rencontré de problème lors de chacune de nos visites, Harar et la route décrite ci-dessus sont tranquilles, un peu moins la région vers l'Est parfois secouée par les rixes opposant Somalis et Oromos, c'est aussi la route des Go-Fast trafiquant le khat entre l'Ethiopie et le Somaliland. En 2015 et même avant, le ministère déconseillait le secteur ce qui était réel en 2018 puisque nous avons dû annuler notre voyage en Ethiopie car le parc de Gambela à l'Ouest et le sanctuaire de Babile à l'Est étaient très instables, Harar n'était pas touchée par ces troubles.
Voilà quelques idées pour établir ton circuit, mais il y en a d'autres si, par exemple, tu remontes à Mekele après le Dallol et redescends jusqu'à Addis avant d'aller à Harar, incluant le détour A&R vers Bati : très jolis paysages tout au long du chemin, lac Ashenge, lac Haik, petit détour vers Koremash (paysage impressionnant et balade possible le long de l'escarpement), puis les lacs de cratères vers Bishoftu + bien sûr, Guassa et la Fenêtre Afar, comme décrits ci-dessus. + si, en fonction de ton choix, il te reste une paire de jours, le Mont Wenchi sur la route ouest vers Ambo (Quelques heures) est vraiment magnifique. On peut faire une belle balade en descendant au fond de la caldeira et en musardant dans les hameaux ou au bord du lac (un bon chauffeur descendra en voiture si la piste bien pentue n'est pas détrempée par la pluie).
Bien cordialement. Jety34
"Moins faire pour mieux voir !"
Yol + D'Jack
Merci
Je vais etudier tout ca , je ne suis aussi au point que toi😏
Je viens de recevoir le programme final de Yenew , il faut que je lise tout ca mais vu que
L'on ne connait pas le pays et que cela ressemble à ce que tu cites je pense qu'on va lui faire confiance sinon il faudrait que que je t'envoie la prposition pour avis
Merci
Bonne soiree
J'ai envoyé le programme en message privé !
Bonsoir Jacky
Petite question adjascente ...
Est ce preferable de prendre le visa à l'aeroport ou en e visa
Comment avez vous fait ?
Merci
Bonsoir Zaz,
Je pense qu'il est préférable d'arriver en Ethiopie avec son visa plutôt que de se le faire délivrer à l'aéroport où ça peut demander un peu de temps. En 2015, nous l'avions pris en ligne, mais il ne faut pas s'y prendre au dernier moment.
Bien cordialement et bon voyage. Jacky.
Je pense qu'il est préférable d'arriver en Ethiopie avec son visa plutôt que de se le faire délivrer à l'aéroport où ça peut demander un peu de temps. En 2015, nous l'avions pris en ligne, mais il ne faut pas s'y prendre au dernier moment.
Bien cordialement et bon voyage. Jacky.
Yol + D'Jack
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Hi there,
Hope the pros are on the lookout!
March or May 2027. Around 15 days in the Western Cape, then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George. The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode... From George: Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1. Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna. Question: What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339. And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340. Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed? Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert? If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts? From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both). Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area? Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me... (For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...). Any feedback from the pros? Well, that’s about it... I’m open to any other tips or advice!
March or May 2027. Around 15 days in the Western Cape, then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George. The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode... From George: Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1. Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna. Question: What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339. And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340. Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed? Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert? If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts? From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both). Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area? Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me... (For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...). Any feedback from the pros? Well, that’s about it... I’m open to any other tips or advice!
Hi there,
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Thanks,
David
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Thanks,
David
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
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Hi there,
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Thanks in advance, and have a great evening! !
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Thanks in advance, and have a great evening! !
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
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- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
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- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
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- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations. Thanks for any feedback on this plan! Ailleurs 64
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations. Thanks for any feedback on this plan! Ailleurs 64
Hi,
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks. We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
Thanks in advance for your tips!!
Have a great day
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks. We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
Thanks in advance for your tips!!
Have a great day
Hi there,
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
Hi everyone!
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old. We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions: - How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?). - Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice. - I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that. - Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas! Gabriel
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old. We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions: - How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?). - Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice. - I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that. - Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas! Gabriel
Hi everyone!
I’m looking for a French-speaking local guide for July 2019. Would anyone have a contact there? No tour operators, please.
Thanks in advance!
I’m looking for a French-speaking local guide for July 2019. Would anyone have a contact there? No tour operators, please.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg. This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights). D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights) Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai). D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights). D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE). D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6. If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too. Thanks! 🙂
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg. This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights). D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights) Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai). D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights). D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE). D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6. If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too. Thanks! 🙂
Hi
Any feedback on the agency Mon Guide Zanzibar?
Hi everyone,
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland. Could you share any tips on: - the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar) - your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours - reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Thanks in advance!
Albin
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland. Could you share any tips on: - the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar) - your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours - reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Thanks in advance!
Albin
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are: - Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional - Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive - Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me. Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works... Thanks to everyone for your help. Bidule 27
When it comes to accommodations, the options are: - Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional - Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive - Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me. Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works... Thanks to everyone for your help. Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
Namibia raises park fees by 86 to 100 percent
Namibia raises park fees by 86 to 100 percent
Hello,
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature. 😊🦁
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature. 😊🦁
Hi everyone,
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa? As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult? We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :) We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend. See you on the road with Doddy
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa? As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult? We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :) We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend. See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route) D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this: - Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
Thanks for your help
D0 Arrival at JNB D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route) D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this: - Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
Thanks for your help
Hello everyone,
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective. First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...). That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on. The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start... During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.) The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance. Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page). Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective. First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...). That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on. The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start... During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.) The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance. Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page). Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Hi there,
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water), – Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places, – Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly, – One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
--- Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments. Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored: – services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water), – hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments, – visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly, – one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment. To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone. Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water), – Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places, – Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly, – One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
--- Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments. Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored: – services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water), – hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments, – visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly, – one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment. To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone. Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Thanks so much in advance!
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Thanks so much in advance!
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this: Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking: Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?) Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire Day 4: Full day in Tarangire Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome... Thanks
So far, the itinerary looks like this: Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking: Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?) Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire Day 4: Full day in Tarangire Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome... Thanks
Hi everyone,
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
Thanks in advance! 😉
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
Thanks in advance! 😉
hi there
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works. I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!! I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh… Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car?? If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali? Thanks so much for your help… Best regards
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works. I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!! I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh… Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car?? If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali? Thanks so much for your help… Best regards
Hey everyone,
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be: - Hwange - Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona) - Mana Pools - Harare - Gonarezhou - Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be: - Hwange - Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona) - Mana Pools - Harare - Gonarezhou - Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
hi there
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work. I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts. So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza Ngenda Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas) Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions: -Is French still widely spoken? -Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info? -Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back? -Is it possible to go hiking solo? -Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share. Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work. I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts. So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza Ngenda Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas) Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions: -Is French still widely spoken? -Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info? -Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back? -Is it possible to go hiking solo? -Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share. Looking forward to exchanging more!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind. I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south: 14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie 17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza 20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara 22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants 25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere. 28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel. 29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance! Nicole Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind. I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south: 14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie 17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza 20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara 22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants 25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere. 28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel. 29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance! Nicole Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers. We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering: Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later) Pretoria – 2 days Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day Acornhoek – 1 day Letaba – 2 days Lobamba – 2 days Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days Cape of Good Hope – 1 day Stellenbosch – 1 day Hermanus – 1 day Mossel Bay – 2 days Oudtshoorn Wilderness – 2 days Knysna Port Elizabeth – 2 days Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions. We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers. We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering: Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later) Pretoria – 2 days Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day Acornhoek – 1 day Letaba – 2 days Lobamba – 2 days Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days Cape of Good Hope – 1 day Stellenbosch – 1 day Hermanus – 1 day Mossel Bay – 2 days Oudtshoorn Wilderness – 2 days Knysna Port Elizabeth – 2 days Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions. We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!



