Hello VF friends!
We’re planning to leave Marrakesh by rental car—this will be our second trip to Morocco. While we want to revisit some places, we also hope to explore new regions. Here’s the start of our itinerary, which could take 2 to 3 weeks. We don’t want to cover too many kilometers each day.
- Depart Marrakech for Essaouira, stopping to visit the Inzerki beehive. We’ll stay 3 nights in Essaouira to explore the city and the surrounding area.
- Head toward Tamanar or that region for another 3 nights, exploring on a star-shaped route. We’d like to see the Paradise Valley and the coast. Not really keen on stopping in Agadir.
We’ve been to Tafraoute before, but I’d love to see some *greniers* (granaries) again, so we’re considering 1 or 2 nights there.
- Tiznit for 2 nights, making our way to Plage Blanche.
- Guelmin and the Tighmert oasis for 2 nights.
- Tata for 2 nights, visiting Akka Iguane and other villages.
After that, we’ll head east.
We’d love to hear about your experiences, great tips, and recommendations!
Here are a few places where we might set our bags down soon...
Essaouira: Le Douar des Oliviers.
Tafraoute: L'Arganier d'Ammeln
Tiznit: Riad Le Lieu
Tighmert Oasis: La Maison de l'Homme Bleu.
Happy holidays and safe travels in Morocco!
Good evening,
from Guelmim you’ll head to Plage Blanche. Not Tiznit.
Also, this round-trip by car isn’t really worth it unless you’re in a 4x4 and plan to drive on the sand and do the Pkage and its 40 km.
Instead, go to Foum Assaka, at Rayon Vert, at Rachid’s—you can sleep and eat there, with excellent fish.
In Tiznit, there are a few nice places to stay, like the riad Le Lieu, right near Place El Mechouar where you can park your car.
The riad El Janoub (you can park your car in front of the riad).
You can eat at both places. Breakfast is great at Janoub.
You can grab a drink (alcohol) at the bar of Hôtel Tiznit at the roundabout.
Tourists love the restaurant "À l’Ombre du Figuier" in the old medina. For me, it’s just okay, but the place is nice and the Moroccan owners are too.
Go to Ferme Turtite just outside the ramparts. I really enjoyed the lamb or goat tagine.
You’ll eat very well at the restaurant on the first floor of Hôtel Tiznit, and they serve wine there.
In Guelmim, you know you have to go to the big Saturday morning souk.
Stroll around this city starting at 5 PM. It's far from being the most beautiful city in Morocco, but it's a place where you feel good, and you'll be the only travelers! You'll really get to know the real Morocco and see the difference with Essaouira, which is very touristy, or even Tafraout. It's bustling with people.
Have a glass of sugar cane-ginger-lemon juice in front of the mosque on the Square.
Do your little shopping on Oued Street.
Have lunch at Abwal de Rome, 33, or Balina. Or eat roast chicken at Bir Anzaean Square.
The Maison de l'Homme Bleu, which Jeeaan recommends, is a must-visit. Ibrahim, the owner, is absolutely charming and interesting. Both the lodging and the food are remarkable for the price. I rarely leave comments on Facebook, but I left one.
From Tighmert, go to the Fask spring. Sure, it's a dirt road, but it's passable by car. Ask around to reach this "source" of 40°C sulfur hot water.
You can dip in your swimsuit into the rustic hole.
Why not make a stop in Agadir?
Have you been before?
Not at all—I just have this image of charter flights, tourists in buses, and everything that goes with it. Scams and pressure. So I’m planning to keep going, but I’m always open to revising my preconceptions! I feel the same way about the desert.
Thanks, I’ll take note of your suggestions and skip Plage Blanche.
We’ll be staying in Marrakech for 2 nights—we arrive late in the evening and leave the morning after next, which really only gives us one full day.
To be honest, when I read some posts, I get the impression that the desert, especially Merzouga, is really over-touristed. I’m open to being convinced about Agadir, though. Our way of traveling lets us go at our own pace. I’m jotting down everything that might interest us along the way, even though I know we won’t see it all. We’ve planned 2 to 3 weeks to reach Tata, sticking to the coast. No interest in a tiring road trip—we’re not exactly spring chickens anymore! And then there’s the weather; we have to take that into account, especially this winter.
Thanks for all your great tips—I’m noting them down carefully. Tell me everything worth checking out in Agadir itself, because of course I’ve seen that the surrounding areas are full of gems.
Anne
Thanks Jeeaan, I’m drawing inspiration from your travel journal. Back in 2014, we stayed 3 nights in Ijoukak and really loved the place. I’m also reading your posts on the topic and learning from your experiences.
Hi there, you absolutely must see Agadir Bay from the top of the Kasbah Oufella. You can choose your mode of transport: on foot, by bus, or by cable car. If you're driving, you’ll need to leave your car behind and finish on foot.
El Had Souk is closed on Mondays.
A walk along the corniche in the late afternoon is really nice.
It’s lively—lots of people, kids, street vendors, and restaurants (though I don’t know those ones).
Before Tiznit, take a detour to the Massa region and Sidi Wassay by the ocean. It’s a beautiful, lush area along the river.
There are wildlife parks if you're interested.
From Tiznit, you can take the coast road or the expressway to Guelmim.
Along the coast, there are stops worth making: Mirleft, Sidi Ifni.
I can give you some accommodation names if you’d like.
Thanks in advance for the great tips. In Essaouira, among other places, and maybe one night in Agadir since if we walk along the corniche in the late afternoon, we won’t want to drive at night. I saw Souss Massa for a beautiful wildlife excursion—is that the place you’re talking about?
All your addresses interest me; we’ll have the *Guide du Routard*, but private recommendations are even better. It’s awesome how much time you’re giving me—I hope others follow this post.
Essaouira:
The Hôtel des Îles. Easy to access and well located.
The riads in the old town are quite expensive.
Don’t miss going to Taros for a drink on the 3rd floor to watch the sunset, and have dinner there too. There might be a live music group.
For a night in Agadir without a car and wanting to stroll along the corniche?
You should stay in the tourist district on Boulevard du 20 Août, where hotels (some with clubs or all-inclusive options) are plentiful. You’ll have plenty of choices. The Kenzi Europa, for example, is a good mid-range option and has been renovated.
In Mirleft (actually 4 km before), the Aftas Trip hotel is really nice.
Lots of restaurants: Zan Zan Café, but not just that.
In Sidi Ifni, you’ll find a riad run by a friendly French guy (Patrick, I think) called Xanadu, right in the old medina (but you can park in front). This riad might appeal to you.
There’s also the Hôtel Bellevue with a bar, so you can enjoy an apéritif, and the restaurant has a great view.
Both accommodations are very reasonably priced.
Thanks! For Essaouira and Agadir, it’s out of budget, but I think I’ll find something given the time I’m aiming for. I’m noting all your info, and our journey is more or less on track at least until Tighmert. It’ll take us a good 15 days to get there. Wishing you happy holidays!
Anne
Hi Marie,
We’re now in your favorite region. We’re staying at Riad Le Lieu in Tiznit. I’ve got a little scheduling issue and I’m reaching out to tap into your experience of the area. Today’s Wednesday, so we’re not far from Guelmim to check out the souk. We could head to Aglou tomorrow and go back to Guelmim on Friday, which would mean staying here for 2 nights. But I’m wondering if it might be smarter to do the coast starting from Aglou, heading down to Foum Assaka, and arriving near Guelmim or Tighmert by the end of next week.
After Tighmert, we’ll be leaving the coast for good.
Thanks for taking a look at this little stretch of the trip and giving me your advice
Good evening,
my name is Marie Mathilde!
And it's Guelmim, not Guelmin. (People often get it wrong, you're not the only one)
From Tiznit via the expressway, which you'll take a few kilometers north of Tiznit, you're less than 1 hour 30 minutes from Guelmim.
If you decide to follow the coast, it takes longer, of course, but it's lovely.
If I understood your request correctly, you're not sure whether you'll go to Guelmim this Friday or next Friday. Is that right?
Since you're leaving the region after Tighmert (which isn't on the coast but 70 or 80 km from the ocean), I recommend following the coast.
You could leave Tiznit the day after tomorrow. If you're not sure what to do in Tiznit tomorrow, head to the Youssef ben Tachfine dam, north of Tiznit. It's signposted. It's really beautiful.
And then book by phone at Ferme Turtite for lunch or dinner.
Then Aglou, but there's not much to see, honestly. If you like it, the corniche and the beach—the campsite rents pretty nice chalets for around 50 €, I think, fully equipped.
At Nid d'Aigle, on the way to Mirleft, you can go paragliding. The site is great, and you can stay there.
Then there's Mirleft, a nice little town. There are plenty of accommodation options. Go to Casbah de l'Artiste at Ibrahim's for lunch, but book ahead.
Head up to the fort (with a view of the town).
Sidi Ifni is another pleasant little town. I think I already mentioned the Xanadoo guesthouse.
At Foum Assaka, about 40 km from Sidi Ifni, you'll find Rayon Vert. You can enjoy sea urchins and grilled fish there. You can also stay overnight.
The site is wonderful, and the welcome is warm.
From there, you'll be at most 1 hour 30 minutes from Guelmim or Tighmert.
In Guelmim, there aren't many restaurants, but Anwal de Rome, La Corbina, and La Balina offer good dishes. On Bir Anzaram Square, you can have roast chicken for lunch.
But if you're in Guelmim on Friday, it's couscous day. I suggest you have it at Anwal de Rome.
There you go—you'll spend your week on lovely visits, stress-free, before heading to the souk around 5 or 6 PM on Friday. You'll see the huge hay loads on the trucks.
Afterward, don't miss going back to the city center, to the post office or mosque square. The atmosphere will be lively, and have a glass of sugar cane-ginger-lemon juice at one of the stalls you can't miss.
Thanks Marie Mathilde, we’re going to follow all these great tips! We’re eating at the Hôtel Tiznit tonight, but off-season like now, it’s a bit gloomy with this huge, almost empty room. We went for tea earlier at the Tigmite farm, and we really liked the vibe there. We’ll eat out tomorrow—all this will give me time to do some window shopping in Tiznit, ouch! Paragliding, we’ll watch with pleasure, those kinds of activities aren’t really for our age anymore 😄. Thanks again.
Anne
Photographie et vidéo en voyage › Maroc · 208 replies
Merci de partager si vous le voulez, vos photos et adresses sympa! en premier évidemment mon village préféré! AÏt Benhaddou, découvert en 202015...2 ou 3…
Travailler, étudier et vivre à l'étranger › Maroc · 11 replies
Je dispose de plusieurs locaux fermés au Maroc, j'ai un petit capital et une expérience dans le secteur privé et pub je souhaite investir dans l'industrie j'ai…
Je vous sollicite pour vos retours d'expérience de la région de Ouirgane et alentours. C'est vrai que je suis marocaine, mais souvent les touristes connaissent…
Besoin de votre aide pour concocter un "séjour aux petits oignons" à ma fille Marina afin qu'elle récupère de tous les concours infirmiers qu'elle vient de…
Voilà je vais aller droit au but: je débarque dans quelques jours à casablanca au Maroc, et j'aimerai passer une dizaine de jours à El Oualidia pour profiter…
Here’s a first draft for a 14-night itinerary during the Christmas break with two teens. We’re especially fond of hiking (nothing too extreme, though), which is why we’re drawn to the south.
- Marrakech (2 nights)
- Aït Ben Haddou (1 night)
- Dadès (3 nights, though we’re thinking of doing a day trip to the Todra Gorge on one of those days)
- M'hamid (1 night)
- Erg Chigaga (1 night)
- 4 nights to slot in
- Marrakech (2 nights)
Okay, I realize this involves a lot of driving, and we’re still debating the return route since we’d like to avoid the Tichka Pass in January, but going through Taroudant seems like it would add *a lot* of time. 😕
If you’ve got other suggestions for an itinerary with great hikes, I’m all ears!
Also, the 4 nights total in MRK isn’t really our preference, but since we’re arriving/departing super early from overseas, we’d like to be a bit rested before the long flight.
Another question:
For hikes (aside from the desert one), is it better to have a guide with us, or are the trails well-marked?
Hi everyone,
Our trip to Morocco will be from November 3 to 17, in the High Atlas.
Basically, our route would be:
Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou
Skoura - Tinghir - Merzouga
Merzouga via the N12 to Zagora
Zagora - Draa Valley - Marrakech
It seems to be the low season, so I’d love to travel without having to book accommodations in advance. In other countries, pre-booking has restricted us and kept us from visiting unplanned sites. Freedom is important to us, but I’d also like to avoid arriving somewhere and finding nothing available.
What do you recommend? Book ahead or not?
Your advice is always helpful, and thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Roberto
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
I’m just a few days away from my trip to Marrakech—I’m leaving from November 13th to 20th and bringing my parents along! I’d love to plan my stay as best as I can, and I’m sure the forum crew can help. So, here are my questions:
- Where’s the best place to exchange money without getting ripped off? The owner of the riad where we’re staying told us to avoid doing it at the airport because it’s really expensive and to do it in the medina instead, near Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Which traditional hammams do you recommend that are reasonably priced? How much should we budget for one? That’ll help me plan my expenses.
- What are some nice restaurants in the medina?
- I’d also like to know roughly how much to expect for a tea, a meal, a taxi, a djellaba, and babouches. I don’t want to get overcharged and would like to know what to expect.
- What are the must-do activities and places to visit?
Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!
We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April.
What do you think of this rate?
This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.
Hi there,
We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake?
Thanks,
Christian
Hi there,
We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February.
We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.
-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available?
-Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)?
-Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?
With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!
- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?)
- What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!)
- In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid?
- Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country?
- A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you:
- Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why?
- Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies.
- Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car?
- Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Have a great evening,
Roberto
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!!
Thanks
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
