Reading suggestions · Cambodia

The itinerary will be pretty classic, though a bit disjointed, to fit our dates and interests. For us, we’ll arrive in Luang Prabang (LP), where we’ll take some time to acclimate, then spend a few days in the northern Laos mountains—Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi.

I’ve decided to do all my sightseeing on foot. I pass by the museum and head toward the central market, Psar Thmey. Along the way, I stop at a pagoda. A ceremony is taking place right now. The monks are seated in the middle, a young novice faces them, and his family is on the sides. I don’t dare go in, but a man gestures for me to join him. He explains that the young monk is trading his civilian clothes for the kesa, the sacred robe of monks.