hi there! I’m heading to Vietnam with a biker friend for 3 months, starting from Hanoi... the plan is to do the northern loop, return to Hanoi, then head down to Ho Chi Minh City... and probably ride back up through the mountains. We’re leaving in February. Just a little detail—we’re two retirees, both 63, used to riding motorbikes, and we have French and international licenses... we’re looking for good tips and advice since we’re planning to buy 125cc Chinese bikes locally. Thanks to everyone, and happy trails—life is beautiful!
Hey everyone!
New to the forum, but not so new to Asia 😄
I’m Nico, from Switzerland, currently based in Bangkok. I love taking my motorcycle out to get lost in the mountains and small villages of Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and more. I’ve been roaming around this area for a good fifteen years now, racking up quite a few kilometers—especially in northern Vietnam.
This time, I finally decided to tackle the Mae Hong Son Loop, clockwise. I’d been to Pai several times before, but oddly enough, I’d never done the full loop.
So, I’ll try to give you a little recap here, day by day, with the roads, stops, places worth checking out… and those that didn’t quite blow my mind 😅
I also filmed the trip, so I’ll post the corresponding video at the end of each day if that’s okay. If it’s not allowed here, just let me know, and I’ll remove them without any issue.
DAY 1 — Chiang Mai → Doi Inthanon → Mae Chaem → Khun Yuam
I left Chiang Mai after renting a Honda ADV 160 from Pop Motorbike. Not exactly an Africa Twin, but for what I had planned, it was more than enough.
Quick hotel note: I stayed at the Lanna Thaphae Hotel before leaving. Around 30 € per night, super well-located, and probably one of the most comfortable beds I’ve ever slept in. A crucial detail for any motorcycle road trip, obviously.
The plan for the day was pretty straightforward:
Head toward Doi Inthanon… and see what happens.
Flawless Swiss organization.
First stop along the way at Wachirathan Waterfall. A really nice waterfall, very easy to access, but don’t expect to channel your inner Indiana Jones—it’s crowded, touristy, and swimming isn’t allowed. Still, it’s a pretty stop along the way.
Next, up to Doi Inthanon.
The road climbs steeply, and my little 160cc started to realize that carrying my 80 kg to Thailand’s highest point probably wasn’t part of its youthful dreams. I was maxing out at 34 km/h in some spots.
But it made it. Good little bike.
The summit is nice—the forest is beautiful, and it’s cool—but I have to admit, it didn’t completely wow me. Glad I went, but not necessarily the highlight of the day for me.
Because then comes Route 1192.
And that’s *much* more my thing: small mountain roads, beautiful scenery, hardly any traffic… the kind of road where I usually start taking way too many unnecessary detours just because a little side road “looks fun.”
Stopped in Mae Chaem for a bite to eat, then headed to Khun Yuam to finish the day.
A little over 200 km in total.
Khun Yuam is… quiet.
*Very* quiet. 😅
A cute little market, a couple of cafés/restaurants, and zero chance of ending up in a club until 4 AM. But after a day on the bike, it was perfect.
Stayed at the Mit Khun Yuam Hotel, around 20 € for a small but very decent room.
All in all, a solid first day and a pretty relaxed start to the loop. Part of this leg is mostly about getting out of Chiang Mai and really diving into the mountains, in my opinion.
Because for me, the really interesting stuff starts over the next two days…
And a few slightly questionable route decisions will also make an appearance 😅
If anyone’s planning the Mae Hong Son Loop, feel free to ask your questions—I’d be happy to answer!
I also filmed this first day, so for those who’d rather see the roads and landscapes than read my rambling, here’s Day 1 😊
DAY 1 VIDEO
I’ll post the next part in the coming days with Day 2: Khun Yuam → Mae Surin → Mae Hong Son.
And that’s where it starts getting *really* fun. 😉
That’s all for now! Looking forward to contributing as much as I can to the forum!
It's all in the title: I'm heading to Krabi soon and want to rent a scooter for a few weeks, but after reading comments about all kinds of scams, I'm reaching out to ask where and how (read: *the right way*) to rent one.
Thanks for your tips and advice.
I’m heading to Vietnam and Laos with a buddy next week for a month.
We’re thinking of renting motorbikes, especially to do the Ha Giang Loop. We don’t have an international license, just our Belgian one. Is that enough? If not, is it risky?
In November, we’re planning to do the Ha Giang loop and the RC4 by motorbike without a guide. 😎
We’re looking for a decent place to stay/rent in Ha Giang.
If anyone has any info, we’d be really interested.
Hi,
I’m Franck and I’m planning to head to Asia this summer on my 410 Himalayan. No set destination—just a hankering for China, Mongolia, Laos… Now that I’m retired, I’ve got all the time in the world. I’m not planning to tackle hardcore off-roading, but I’ll probably leave the tarmac every now and then. If anyone has any tips on potential administrative hassles, essential tools and spare parts, or anything else, I’d love to hear them.
Thanks for sharing!
Best,
Franck
