Travelers' reflections · Costa Rica

Really disappointed with Costa Rica! Pura vida? The scam of the century! (Costa Rica pure emptiness).

The country where animals are free and people are in cages. 3 weeks in December in this country and never again. Imagine the trailer of a movie that seems interesting, and when you go see it, you realize it’s a flop and the best moments were in the trailer. Well, that’s exactly how we felt with Costa Rica pure emptiness. My wife and I have traveled quite a bit and didn’t expect to be so wrong about a place. On the main routes, we visited: San José Alajuela Limón, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, Manzanillo (Caribbean side) Jaco, Quepos, Manuel Antonio (Pacific side) And a few short stops in intermediate towns.

Our dissatisfaction grew gradually like this:

When we arrived at the hotel, the taxi dropped us off on a small street in front of a white metal gate with ground-floor windows barred. We looked at it skeptically, but the sign matched. He approached the gate, rang the bell, the buzzer sounded, and the door opened slightly. The hotel wasn’t bad for the price, a 10-minute walk from downtown, but with a "Fleury-Mérogis" vibe guaranteed.

So far, so good.

After showering and regaining our bearings, we headed downtown. What started to unsettle us on the way was seeing houses with bars on the ground-floor windows and even on the second floor. At first, we thought the hotel’s neighborhood wasn’t great.

Downtown San José: It’s a generic city, not very exotic, with a pedestrian street and a small mercado where you can eat local food without frills. Very few tourists—if any—which let you blend in with the locals. We had lunch and struggled to make ourselves understood because, aside from one or two shops, English wasn’t spoken. On the way back to the hotel, we took a different route, and while chatting and strolling, my wife pointed out a beautiful two-story white house completely barricaded like Fort Knox. From that moment, we started noticing the facades of houses and buildings, and wow, it was creepy—most looked like prisons, some even with barbed wire. Though put off, we told ourselves it was probably a big-city thing and the rest of the country couldn’t be like this.

So far, so good.

We relaxed at the hotel and had a drink at the bar. Night falls early, around 5:30 PM. By 7:30 PM, we headed back downtown for dinner. A bit unsettling for a capital—downtown was almost deserted, and aside from fast-food chains, very few restaurants were open, with hardly anyone on the streets. Bars with security guards out front. I won’t say we felt unsafe that night, but once it got dark, we realized the bars on the windows weren’t for nothing. First day in, and our impression was already mixed.

The next day, we explored the city and surroundings, and our feelings didn’t change.

So far, so good.

Off to Cahuita by bus—4 hours of travel. The landscapes are very green but quickly become monotonous. The road runs alongside the forest and passes through a few towns and villages, and even in the countryside, there were just as many prison-like houses. The bus dropped us off at Cahuita’s terminal station—only four of us got off. It’s a village, or rather, a small town. Cahuita is basically one straight road and a perpendicular one, and honestly, doubt started to creep in. A few restaurants that add 13% tax and 10% service charge—so 23% extra. We dropped our stuff at the hotel and went to explore. In 20 minutes, we’d seen it all. We had lunch and planned to check out the famous park. Entry is by donation—well, the "entry" is a joke. There’s a path along the forest by the sea, and that’s it.

Nothing’s going right anymore.

We thought it was a total scam, but since we hadn’t gone far, we decided to come back the next day to explore further. We returned to the hotel, relaxed, and around 8:00 PM, we went out for dinner. Only two restaurants were open, and the streets were deserted.

Creepy!

The next day, we explored the so-called park more thoroughly and really got it. A path along the forest by the sea—2 hours there and 2 hours back, where you see animals that feel like showing their faces. A total joke—"all that for this?"

The beach was full of wood debris and coconut husks. We wondered if the photos online were edited because the sea, very rough, wasn’t the azure blue we’d seen in pictures. But calling this a park is a joke—it’s like a new concept.

When we thought about the reviews online, we started to suspect that professionals with interests in the country were monitoring and countering any negative feedback that could harm their business. Too bad we didn’t check the negative reviews beforehand—we did while we were there, and it helped. We wondered if we’d become too demanding after all our travels, but no—when something’s bad, it’s bad.

Manuel Antonio’s park is even more ridiculous—there’s a short path along the sea for about 500 meters, and then nothing. You have to climb through mud and hack your way through the forest. We ended up barefoot because the mud was up to our calves. All that to see a raccoon and a few parrots flying overhead.

We didn’t expect Noah’s Ark, but we’ve seen more animals in Bali, Mexico, and Thailand while visiting temples or just walking around than in these so-called parks!

Puerto Viejo, not far from Cahuita and supposedly livelier—well, it couldn’t be worse! According to Lonely Planet, it had a Caribbean vibe and wild nights, but maybe that was a long time ago. The good reggae music playing everywhere isn’t enough.

In the evening, Puerto Viejo was a bit livelier than Cahuita, but that’s not saying much. Very few tourists—if any—no night market, just two or three shops open selling $20 T-shirts. Same vibe as San José.

No big deal—we enjoyed the beach and the sun, which was reliable. Our itinerary was supposed to include Tortuguero Park, but after talking to other travelers who’d just been, we changed our minds, knowing we’d be visiting Manuel Antonio Park on the Pacific side.

To get back to the Pacific side, you have to take the bus and go through San José again—5 hours this time—then switch bus terminals and another 4.5 hours to Quepos. A stopover town to get to Manuel Antonio’s beach and park! A town just like the others we’d seen—deserted as soon as the sun sets, and not exactly bustling during the day either. (Where are all the tourists?)

Still as many bars on the windows and that feeling of being in the wrong place.

7 km later: Manuel Antonio beach and park. The beach is very beautiful and quite large, but don’t expect turquoise blue water—the waves stir up the sand, giving the water a brownish color. Along the beach, shops and restaurants for about 300 meters, and then nothing. At night, after sunset, the town shuts down too.

Manuel Antonio Park is highly praised for its wildlife, so we were eager to see it. When you express dissatisfaction with Cahuita or Manzanillo parks, the response is always, "But you should’ve gone to Monteverde or Manuel Antonio!" No matter what you do or say, they’ll tell you, "You should’ve gone there or here."

Back to our famous park—entry was about $16, and contrary to what we’d heard, it wasn’t crowded! Guides at the entrance with spotting scopes offered their services for about $30. The park: a mix of boardwalk and dirt paths through the forest, sometimes running alongside beautiful coves and beaches. As soon as we entered, a crowd was taking photos of a deer eating leaves. A little further on, a guide with a group of five stopped. The guide raised his arm and set up his spotting scope! He showed them, about 100 meters away, a hummingbird perched on a branch. Some, looking through the scope, exclaimed, "Oh my God! Amazing! Incredible!" For a moment, we thought they’d discovered a unicorn or were in Jurassic Park and had just crossed paths with a T-Rex! The concept is comical—looking at a bird or another animal through a spotting scope because it’s too far away. Isn’t that what TV is for? For our part, we saw monkeys, ants, an armadillo, an iguana, and the backside of a sloth climbing a tree. Amazing, incredible!

We stayed a few days in Manuel Antonio to enjoy the beach, changing hotels often because prices varied wildly from one day to the next for shameful services. On top of that, they’d quote a price in dollars and convert it at their discretion—thieves!

Alajuela, a city near the airport, has a two-story mall and a local market downtown! No interest except its proximity to the airport.

What we liked:

The climate and, in hindsight, San José—the most authentic city we visited.

What we didn’t like, in addition to what we’ve already mentioned:

Costa Ricans aren’t very friendly or communicative. English is barely spoken, not even by doctors at Quepos Hospital, where my wife ended up with food poisoning (thanks, Google Translate). The widespread obesity among Costa Ricans, who eat like Americans. The insecurity. The eco-hipsters who leave their $150 lodges in minivans with guides to visit parks and other sites, then return to barricade themselves in their fortresses at nightfall (oh my God, amazing, incredible). The blue signs at the entrance of towns that accept this payment method: "We accept American Express." Parking lots that become paid just because a guy is watching your car. Prices displayed in dollars. The cost of living (hotels, restaurants, taxes). Landscapes that are too green and not flowery enough. Beaches—nothing exceptional. Pollution in cities where big American trucks rule. Sewage dumped directly into the sea. Aside from the jungle, there’s nothing to visit—no ruins, monuments, or anything worth seeing.

In short, my wife and I think the hype about this supposedly eco-friendly country is overrated. It’s just the trendy destination of the moment. There are much better, cheaper, and more authentic places. In hindsight, we keep the good memories and our beautiful photos, but if we had to do it over...

Before signing off, a little message to those who don’t like hearing opinions different from theirs: Well, some things aren’t up for debate. And to those who’d have us believe that in 3 weeks, we don’t have the right to criticize a country or express our feelings—how can you praise it in so little time? What a scam. Costa Rica is a money pit. Pura vida? Pure cosmic emptiness.

If you like spending your evenings barricaded in your cozy hotel after dark, this country is for you. For everyone else: run!

We just got back from a nearly 3-week trip to Costa Rica in March. For the occasion, we used EVANEOS to plan our trip based on our preferences. After some setbacks with ADOBE RENT-A-CAR—they refused the Visa Premier card and forced us to pay for extra insurance (which is usually covered by the Visa Premier)—we finally set off to explore the country. Observation: Apart from nature, wildlife, and flora, there isn’t much else to see, but it’s so beautiful! Some people criticize the country as insignificant, with bland food and unwelcoming locals. I think those people didn’t really explore—maybe they stayed in their hotel near the beach (UVITA?) without venturing out. Otherwise, there wouldn’t be so many Europeans living in Costa Rica who don’t even consider going back to their home countries. For our part, we found Costa Ricans very kind and welcoming. It’s often said they’re thieves, but personally, we left a small suitcase in a restaurant. When we returned after driving 20 km round trip, the staff were trying to find our phone number to contact us. I think it’s like anywhere—even in France, I’d tell tourists not to leave anything in their car to avoid… well, you know. Food: Traditional dishes, fish plates (tilapia was excellent), and especially ceviche (around 15 € per person)—really good—and lobster (around 30 to 35 € per person), all served with fruit batidos (around 3 € per person). Car: We had a 2-wheel-drive vehicle, which kept us from visiting some sites that require a 4x4, like Boruca, the town of artisan masks. Some lodges are also only accessible via rough, rocky trails that are tough to navigate in a regular car. Don’t hesitate to insist on a 4x4. Keep in mind that driving fast in Costa Rica isn’t possible. Some roads are in poor condition, and there are often unmarked speed bumps that are much worse than the ones in France. You’ll average about 50 to 60 km/h on a leg of the trip. I also recommend bringing a road map to cross-check the routes suggested by Waze or Google Maps. Sometimes, these apps will send you down completely wrecked roads to save time! A paper map will help you verify the road type. It’s better to drive an extra 20 km than to get stuck on a rocky path. - San José to Barra de Pacuare (much less crowded than Tortuguero). Sea turtles are still rare this time of year. Via the canals, we spotted howler monkeys, sloths, and birds, and on land, we saw venomous spiders, poisonous frogs, and a leatherback turtle conservation site. Explored a primary tropical forest with its many species of flora and fauna (monkeys, snakes, sloths, toucans, raccoons, etc.). - Barra de Pacuare to Cahuita: Explored Cahuita National Park (howler monkeys, capuchin monkeys, raccoons, sloths, blue crabs, leaf-cutter ants, etc.) and walked along the trail by Puerto Viejo’s beach. - Cahuita to Bambú: Visited the Bribri tribe and their customs. This isn’t a tourist trap—it’s a deep immersion into a community living almost self-sufficiently. To get there, you take a motorized canoe for over an hour. But be warned: 1 - The restroom cleanliness leaves a lot to be desired 2 - There’s no hot water 3 - A waterfall hike is offered. The first two-thirds are fine, but the last third is very dangerous, especially if it’s rained, even with sneakers. You need sturdy shoes. Our guide turned back halfway… - Bambú to Sarapiquí: - La Fortuna: Explored the Mistico Park tropical forest. A 3+ km trail lets you discover animals and lush vegetation. Sixteen suspension bridges, some up to 45 meters high, offer stunning views of the canopy. Walked around Arenal Volcano: Big disappointment for seeing lava flows. After 2 km, a viewpoint shows vegetation that’s taken over—only a few volcanic rocks hint at the 1968 eruption. - La Fortuna to Carara: Spotted crocodiles at the Tarcoles Bridge. - Carara to Uvita: Relaxed. Uvita is a small tourist town with nothing particularly original, but it’s the place to try CEVICHE, a typical dish of raw fish “cooked” in lime juice. Delicious! We recommend Mestizo for very affordable prices. - Osa to Corcovado National Park: This park is gorgeous. You’ll see all four monkey species, tapirs, scarlet macaws, etc. From Drake Bay, it takes about 1 hour 15 to 1 hour 30 to cross to the park. After navigating the mangroves, the boat heads into open sea until reaching the beach, where you’ll wade ashore (water up to your thighs—bring shoes for the slippery rocks). National Geographic called the park a "jewel of humanity" that must be preserved at all costs due to its incredible biodiversity. The park represents 3% of the world’s biodiversity. You can observe countless monkeys (all four species are present), crocodiles, tapirs, and scarlet macaws. Our guided hike with a French-speaking guide lasted 4 hours before returning by boat to the lodge. WARNING: There’s strict control at the park entrance: - No plastic bottles - No knives - No plastic items - No bare feet. Closed-toe shoes are required (in addition to a pair for the boat) - Osa to Zona de los Santos: This is the coffee region and home to the quetzal, a stunning but hard-to-spot bird that’s also Guatemala’s symbol. Paraíso Quetzal Lodge has a platform with a spotting scope to try to see the bird in the forest. CAUTION: This beautiful lodge is at 2,650 meters altitude. The rooms have incredible forest views, but it’s VERY VERY cold! - Zona de los Santos to San José: Detour to Irazú Volcano. WARNING: Buy tickets before arriving. The staff kindly bought them for us via their phone. Small disappointment: The crater lake hasn’t existed for years! The ads are misleading about this. - San José: A city we found uninteresting.

J’ai lu avec perplexité l’avis d.un voyageur qui n, à pas trouve que le Costa Rica était une destination intéressante. Je m, inscris en faux sur cet avis j’y ai vu des tas d’oiseaux une forêt splendide des singes et notamment des paresseux une nature qui explose un lac couleur émeraude au volcan Irazu. Il faut choisir ces parcs et. Ses dates de départ j’y suis allée en février temps idéal quand aux lieux il faut éviter le parc manuel Antonio bien que j’y ai vu à part la foule des oiseaux que je n’avais pas vu ailleurs mais surtout il faut aller au Corcovado on est seul avec un guide ensuite à tortuguero il faut se promener dans les mangroves et les bras du fleuve c’est la que se trouve la magie du Costa Rica et non pas à San Jose qui n à aucun intérêt. J’espere Que les gens qui projettent d’aller au Costa Rica n, y renonceront pas ce serait dommage car c’est une belle experience. Je précise que je suis une grande voyageuse et que je ne m’enflamme pas pour rien.

Je suis en train de rédiger un texte pour mon cours de français et je parle du fait que les voyage sont une belles opportunité pour s'ouvrir sur le monde, pour changer sa façon de penser, pour sortir des préjugé ou des idées préconçues. J'aimerais connaitre vos histoires de voyages. Vous est-il déjà arrivé d'être complètement changé après un voyage, d'avoir vu des choses qui vous ont boulverser, cela peut être autant heureux que malheureux ou alors avez-vous changez votre vision sur certaines culture... Tout ce que vous jugez bon :). Merci

PS. les pays enregistrées ne représente pas mon message, vos histoires peuvent être dans différents pays.

Hola,

Le Costa Rica semble devenir (malheureusement!) la prochaine Republique Dominicaine ? Aux mains des promoteurs qui n'hesitent pas à dénaturer les plages, et bloquer ainsi l'accès à certaines, pour y planter des "condominium" pour touristes gringos. Il suffit de regarder comment se développent Jaco, Tamarindo & Cie... Au train où vont les développements et la soif de $$$ de certains, l'image écologique du Costa Rica ne sera bientot plus qu'une image d'épinal!