African Indian Ocean

hi, I'm thinking of going to Madagascar at the end of the year. Can you recommend a decent hotel in Diego? Thanks in advance for your reply. alex

Hi there, I’m looking for info on whether it’s feasible to travel the Pangalanes Canal by boat from Toamasina to Manakara. I know the canal is poorly maintained with some sections that aren’t navigable. This is my 5th trip to Madagascar. Thanks for any tips!

Hi everyone, We’re heading to Madagascar for a month at the end of June with the family. Our itinerary takes us to the East: Tana, Andasibe, Pangalanes, Tamatave, Mahambo, Sainte Marie; then up North to Sambava, Vohemar, and finishing in Diego Suarez. One question that’s been on our minds a lot is about money and payments. We’ve seen some discussions on this forum, but they didn’t answer all our questions.

We have two Visa credit cards from two different banks. The banks are aware of our trip and shouldn’t block the cards. One card is from the Caisse d’Épargne, which has international options that avoid fees. We’ll likely use this card as our primary, and the second one will be a backup (since the fees are higher for that one).

We’ve heard that few shops and hotels accept card payments—is that accurate?

Several hotels seem to accept wire transfers to a Euro account, as some have asked for a deposit that way. The exchange rate offered is often poor, though (e.g., 1 € = 4,500 Ar)—is this negotiable?

Of course, we’ll bring some Euros in cash to exchange, but we don’t want to carry too much money on us. If we exchange Euros at a bank, is the wait long?

Once the cash runs out, we’ll need to withdraw from ATMs, but we’ve heard it can be a challenge—ATMs max out at 400,000 Ar, and the wait at the counter can be very long if we need more. Have you observed the same?

Is there also a way to pay using smartphone apps? Someone mentioned TapTap Send or Sendwave, and I’ve also seen the Orange Money app. Is one or more of these options reliable and widely used? I imagine this could be useful for many payments and help avoid burning through the cash we withdraw too quickly.

Are we missing any other practical solutions?

Thanks for your help! Julien

Hi everyone, Everything’s in the title: what are the options for getting from M. to M.? By *boutre* (traditional sailboat), I know, if you’re not in a hurry. Is there a coastal track between Mahajanga and the Tsingy? Meaning, can you reach Bekopaka by track without going back through Tana? Thanks.

Hi there,

My flight ticket to Mauritius is booked, and my accommodations are all set.

The plan: relaxation, hiking, and swimming...😛

I’m looking for hiking ideas anywhere on the island (I’ll have a car). Nothing over 15 km round trip and a maximum of 500 m elevation gain. (A little more if it’s an exceptional hike.)

I’m also searching for beaches where I can do some snorkeling without needing to take a boat or join an excursion.

I’ve seen that sea kayaking tours are available. Is it possible to just rent a kayak, and which spots on the island are best for easy kayaking?

If you have other suggestions (villages, viewpoints, etc.) for independent excursions, I’m all ears!😉

Thanks🙂

hey everyone, I’m planning a trip in July: I’d like to take a minibus from Tana to Mahajanga, then continue on to Antsohihy and Narinda Bay, take time to explore the area (Nosy Lava), and then head back down to Mahajanga if possible by boutre or, if not, by the track if it exists. Just to clarify, I’ve got a bike and all the time in the world. Has anyone done this or have any info? Thanks in advance!!

Hi there, Could you recommend any reputable local agencies for a driver with a vehicle to travel along the RN7 from Tana to Tulear with stops? Or alternatively, a driver you’ve personally "hired" for your trip? Thanks! Xavier

Hi everyone, I’m heading to Madagascar in December 2025 and I’d like to know the one-way fare without checked baggage—just cabin luggage—from Tamatave/Toamasina to Saint-Denis on Réunion Island, please. Also, how many days a week are there connections, and how long does the trip take? Thanks!

I’d also like to know about the route between Réunion Island and Mauritius: where does it depart from, how much does it cost, and on which days are there connections? Thanks in advance!

Best regards,

We're heading back to Réunion on Wednesday, April 30th, and we'd like to spend 2 or 3 days in the Cirque de Mafate. Can you recommend a nice gîte where it'd be pleasant to stay, with a warm welcome and good meals? We're planning to get there by helicopter. What do you think? We're interested if you've got another great tip!

Hi there, we have a 3-day stopover in Mauritius and we’d love to know what the must-see spots are. Also, does anyone have a taxi driver to recommend?

Hello,

I’m an agronomy student specializing in tropical regions, and I need to do my 4-month internship near Tuléar. However, I only found out about it yesterday, and I’m supposed to leave on September 16th. I’ve never done this kind of trip before—neither alone nor with someone else. So, I’m a little lost and, um… panicking! I also need to transport valuable equipment that doesn’t take up too much space!

I’m not sure how to get between the two cities, Antananarivo and Tuléar. I plan to carry my luggage in an 80L hiking backpack to avoid drawing attention in Antananarivo.

Has anyone taken a *taxi-brousse* on this route before? How much time should I allow between the two cities, and what budget should I plan for this trip? Where can I find *taxis-brousses* (TB) in Antananarivo?

Any info will be helpful and reassuring! Thanks!

PS: What do you think about safety in Tuléar?

Hi, Can you tell me if it's possible to exchange money in cities other than the capital or some domestic airports, and should I prioritize banks or exchange shops? Thanks in advance

First trip to Madagascar (couple + 2 older teens). We’ve read quite a few posts and watched traveler videos, which helped us figure out what we could do in 3 weeks. We’d like to travel with a driver-guide. You’ll probably be able to help us with the overall duration... Are we being too ambitious, or is this reasonable? In this itinerary, are there any must-see places we shouldn’t miss? Here’s our first draft:

Departure from Tana to the east via the RN2. Stop at the Analamazoatra Reserve RN11 to reach the Pangalanes Canal 3 or 4 days to travel south along the canal (taxi boat) The train from Manakara to Fiana RN7 toward Tulear Time for a short trek in Andringitra? I’m not sure... Isalo Park From Tulear, head north or south by pirogue to relax somewhere To get back to Tana and stay within our vacation time, I think we’ll need to fly... Will we have time left for Ampefy?

What do you think?

Hi, we’re heading to the Seychelles at the end of April—2 adults and 2 kids (9 and 11 years old). We’ll be spending 3 nights in Mahé, 3 in Praslin, and 6 in La Digue. For Mahé, is staying in the southeast, around Anse Royale, a good idea? We’ll have a car and want to be close to beautiful beaches. Thanks

Hi, we’re traveling as a group of 4 (2 adults and 2 kids aged 9 and 12) in April. I was thinking of renting a car in Mahé and Praslin, then renting a bike on La Digue. When I look at car rental companies, there’s a whole bunch of them! For those who’ve been there before, do you have any recommendations? Thanks!

Sandra.

It’s been 15 years since I last went to Sainte-Marie. I used to stay at the Hôtel Les Baleines—it was pretty basic, but I get the feeling things have improved since then. If anyone has good recommendations for hotels, rentals, scooters, or tuk-tuks, I’m all ears!

Hi there, following a work trip, I’ll have 4.5 days left to get a quick overview of Madagascar during the last week of February. I’ll already have had a good look around Tana (3 days of work and 1.5 days beforehand to see 1 or 2 points of interest 2-3 hours from Tana).

Is it feasible to spend the remaining 4.5 days like this:

- Day 1 & 2 (and maybe the morning of Day 3): relaxing on a coast with a pleasant climate, for example, a one-way flight to Tuléar (there’s a flight on Day 1 at 3 AM) and heading to a nice beach. Ideally, I’d have liked to go toward Morondava (baobabs, beautiful beaches near Belo), but the flight schedules don’t really work, and it wouldn’t let me visit Isalo.

- Then 2 days to head back up via the RN7, ideally with a stop in Isalo, which really appeals to me (I’m an experienced hiker in France), and/or Ranomafana. But do the weather conditions allow for long hikes in that area? Ideally, I’d like to do Tuléar–Tana by public transport up to my first road stop (shared bus? To Isalo?), then find a local hiking guide for the day. And take another transport to another point of interest before returning to Tana, where I have my return flight to France on Day 5 at noon.

My questions: - How to travel from Day 3 to Day 5 from the west coast (Tuléar? Morondava?) back to Tana? I’d prefer not to depend on a guide the whole way, but if I have to 🤷🏽‍♂️) If I choose Morondava, will I miss out on really interesting spots I could’ve seen along the RN7?

I’m open to any suggestions or ideas to make the most of these 4.5 days, like another beach destination I might not have considered (I ruled out Nosy Bé because of the February weather—maybe I was wrong?)

Hi there, We’re planning a trip with our daughters (23 and 21) during the second half of May. One is really into sports, and the other prefers the beach. Do you have any experiences or recommendations to share? Thanks

Things may have changed... 10 years ago, we were advised not to exchange money at Ivato Airport when arriving, but rather in shops like electronics stores. We’ll be arriving on a Friday early afternoon—I’m wondering if Malagasy banks in Tana are open on Friday afternoons and Saturdays? Do you have any tips for exchanging euros to ariary?

Hi everyone, I’m happy to be back on the forum, and to be honest, I’ve missed being able to share with this amazing community 😛

I’m starting to plan a trip for September 2025 with my wife. I’d love to discover Mauritius, and I’ve begun reading the forum posts.

Can you tell me if September is a good time to visit Mauritius?

I’ll admit we’re still hesitating—our ideas are Mauritius or Bali.

We’re in our sixties, not high-level athletes, but we travel quite a bit. We don’t like changing hotels every day; instead, we prefer to explore around a central base. If we need to move to better enjoy the trip, no more than twice, I think.

So, I’m looking for a good compromise for accommodation. I’m also looking for a guide to get an idea of pricing and options, but most of all, I’d love to hear from people who’ve already stayed there during this period and get tips on finding places to stay.

Thanks for your help—I’ll now go read the various posts about Mauritius 😉

Hi there, I’m heading to Madagascar for 15 days next March, specifically to Nosy Be, and I’d like to buy some vanilla. Where can I buy it in Nosy Be, and what’s the current price of vanilla? I’ve heard that the price of vanilla has skyrocketed (like everything else, to be honest). If anyone has bought some recently, that would be a huge help. Thanks in advance!

Hi, We're heading to Madagascar in just over a month. Our flight arrives at Nosy Be, and I was wondering if there are any currency exchange offices at that airport since it doesn’t seem very big? I’d like to exchange 500 € for incidentals (souvenirs, vanilla purchases, etc.). Our hotel is already paid for (half-board) as well as the excursions. What do you think? Thanks for your help!

If you had 5 days available in your road trip on this gorgeous island, which would you choose between the two options below and why? 1/ Diego Suarez with a visit to Ankarana, the "Montagne des Français", the Three Bays, the Emerald Sea, etc. Or 2/ a trio starting from Morondava all the way to Anakao, passing through Belo sur Mer, Manja, Salary, and Anakao. Thanks for your help

Hi there I’m heading to Madagascar soon and I’m looking for two pieces of info: - Is there a passenger train between Tananarive and Tamatave? - Are there maritime connections again between Madagascar and the Comoros from Majunga? If so, can you buy ferry tickets online? Thanks Laurent

It's all in the title! What are the options and fares for getting from the airport to downtown? My last reference there is 10 years old...

Hi there, I’m planning a 22-day trip to Madagascar this July.

And I could really use some advice 😊

Here’s what I’m sure about: Spending a few days in Nosy Be so my daughter can complete her Open Water certification—so I’m thinking 4 or 5 days there. I think Diego Suarez, Montagne d’Ambre, and Ankarana would suit what we like to do and have the advantage of being close to Nosy Be.

Now, the parts I’m unsure about, especially because of travel times:

My daughters really want to see whales. Is it possible around Nosy Be, or is Sainte Marie *the* must-visit spot? And what’s the weather like at that time of year? If we choose Sainte Marie, maybe do the Pangalanes Canal? Or is the route from Diego to Sainte Marie via the Vanilla Road a must-do?

Another option could be exploring the east with the Tsiribihina River and the Avenue of the Baobabs in Morondava.

Thanks in advance for your tips!

During these three big weeks in Madagascar, one week in Sainte Marie, a few days for a little loop in the west/south, and the rest in Tana. This loop I’m talking about covers an area I’d never taken the time to visit before. A recent road in good condition, the chance to pass through beautiful highland landscapes, and a few free days made it the perfect opportunity. Destination: Ampefy, west of Tana via the RN1, then a turn south onto the recently rehabilitated RN43 to reach Antsirabe before heading back to Tana. Four days planned—perfect, since an extra day wouldn’t have been a problem given all the activities in Ampefy.

First day: a relaxed and fairly late departure for Ampefy. We weren’t in a rush and took our time. Traffic leaving Tana to get back on the RN1 cost us the head start we had on our original schedule. An hour and a half bumper-to-bumper with the *buxis*, inching painfully toward the roundabout and then the bridge that acts as a bottleneck—we dove in like all our fellow sufferers. It’s not our everyday reality, and we were early, so no big deal, but man, it’s long and slow. Once past that obstacle, traffic flowed smoothly, and the road was good (all the way to Ampefy). We moved through highland landscapes, bustling villages full of activity, and countless agricultural supply shops—clear proof, if any were needed, that we were crossing a prime farming region. Around Arivonimamo, we passed through a forest with a Mediterranean vibe: a single-species forest of stout little trees with glossy, elongated light-green leaves—these are *tapia*. An endemic tree in Madagascar, and a pretty unique forest as a result (you can see them elsewhere, like between Antsirabe and Ambositra). There are efforts to protect it from illegal logging because the wood is fire-resistant, which helps shield the forest from wildfires. Beyond its biodiversity value, the *tapia* hosts silkworms, giving it economic and cultural importance.

As we kept going, we started spotting a lake and mountains with the rounded shapes typical of extinct volcanoes worn down by time and the elements. We were approaching Lake Itasy and, by extension, Ampefy. We stopped at a *hotely* for a plate of *tongon’kisoa*—pig’s trotters caramelized by cooking, with thick, flavorful skin—along with the obligatory portion of rice, which we took the time to drizzle with cooking juices to make it a bit more appetizing. Full, we turned left to reach Ampefy and our hotel. The landscape was dotted with collapsed, dormant volcanic cones, and suddenly, the view opened up onto the lake. Shallow and expansive, we followed it, losing sight of it now and then before finding it again in Ampefy itself, which we entered after crossing the Lily, a beautiful river that drains the lake. Lots of hotels and restaurants, with plenty of options at all price points. We chose the *Farihy*, about 5 km past Ampefy. A gorgeous spot by the lake, with a pool and lovely bungalows—some with picture windows overlooking the lake. Really nice. In the evening, a drink and some *sak sak* for aperitif on the terrace. It wasn’t warm, there was a lot of wind, and a storm was brewing. Off to bed quickly to start the next day’s visits.

After buying some lychees—we hadn’t seen many this year, and these were fresh from the field, picked in Ampefy—we headed to the Lily Falls. Well signposted, with a paved road in great condition, we stopped at the kiosk for the entrance fee and parking (1 euro for one *vahiny* and 10 cents for one Malagasy). We set off down the path and quickly reached the first waterfall, then continued for maybe 1 km on a well-marked trail to the second. A guide led us to the third, which is harder to spot and isn’t actually on the Lily itself. Beautiful countryside scenery: fishermen straight out of *Tom Sawyer*, straw hats on their heads, lying down with one foot hooked to a fragile bamboo rod, their line dipping into the calm river. Men preparing rice paddies with their *angady*, women transplanting rice, bent over the water. At some points, we walked along the dikes between paddies almost ready for harvest. It’s peaceful and beautiful when you’re strolling or fishing, but working the paddies is grueling, especially under that beating sun. A really nice walk—2 hours and a bit, going at a leisurely pace. A guide isn’t mandatory; only the entrance fee is. We took one because it provides a bit of work and puts money in the hands of locals, giving them more incentive to protect the site. But you can easily skip it, like most people do. Lots of visitors since it was the weekend—Tananarivians with family or groups of young people, scout groups organized under their chaperones’ direction. Very few foreign tourists, though—that’s a general observation. It’s great to see this growth in domestic tourism, giving Malagasy people the chance to discover their own country and allowing those in the sector to rely less on foreign visitors, who’ve been scarce for years.

Next, we headed to the "geysers" (which aren’t actually geysers, but whatever). We had to go back to the RN1, head toward Tsiroanomandidy, and a few kilometers later, a well-marked sign and a newly paved track led us to a pretty site. Again, lots of people, another kiosk, more fees to pay, and guides available. This time, we skipped the guide. A downpour caught us in front of the "geysers," so we took shelter under a little shop, grabbing an ice cream and some drinks. We didn’t stay long—we weren’t interested in a massage or a dip in the thermal water. The countryside and barren mountain landscapes were stunning on the way back to the hotel. We noticed you could go paragliding right in front of the bungalow, so we booked a session for the next morning. After eating at the *Auberge* in the town center (it was good), we headed back to the hotel to turn in early. Once again, a storm rolled in during the afternoon, and the temperature dropped significantly.

The next morning, around 8 a.m., we walked to the takeoff zone near the hotel. Towed by a small boat, we took off for a flight over the lake and the volcanic domes before landing back at the same spot. Two companies handle this. I’m no expert, but it seemed safe and well-organized.

To be continued...

Hello, We’re arriving in Tana, the capital, by plane on the morning of May 22nd after an overnight flight. Does any forum member know this Malagasy driver-guide: Haja Rasolondraibe? The itinerary below might change or evolve—23 days might not be enough. We’ll visit the central region (the highlands: Antsirabe, Atoetra and a Zafimaniry village, Lake Andrianina) and the unmissable west (Kirindy, the Avenue of the Baobabs, the Tsingy de Bamaraha, and a fishing village). Then back to Tana. After that, we’ll head east of Tana to Ambohimanga, Andasibe, near Tamatave, Ankanin'ny, Mahambo, and Île Sainte-Marie if time allows. Not sure yet. Then back to Tana. This driver-guide with a 4x4 charges 70 € per day, including food and accommodation. Excluding fuel. If any members can recommend other driver-guides with a 4x4 and more reliable vehicles in good condition (since we don’t want to travel at night), I’d be interested. Thanks in advance. evad.tebo

Hi there,

I’m heading to the Seychelles in March and I’d like to know how far in advance it’s best to book the boat transfers from Mahé to Praslin round-trip. Should I also book the transfers between Praslin and La Digue in advance, or can I just grab them on the day?

Oh, the good news—the site is back up after such a long closure. I think many of us were really missing it, though some have moved on to other forums like Routard. Hopefully, activity will pick up little by little. Travel habits have probably changed post-Covid, and some regulars won’t be coming back for all sorts of reasons. But for the rest of us, the forum is here for travel journals and pre-trip questions. Anyway…

Back to the main point: my last trip to Madagascar was a while ago now—about a year—on the High Plateaus during the austral winter. It was really chilly, and to be honest, my feelings were mixed between the joy of returning to Madagascar and the sadness of seeing the state of the country. The infrastructure is crumbling, and the population is sinking into poverty at unprecedented levels. The country’s closure likely had immeasurable consequences, compounded by destructive cyclones. Even secondary cities have seen large numbers of rural people arriving in search of work, while some rural areas barely allow survival. I’ve never felt such despair over the situation in 20 years.

From Tana to Fianar, it was nothing but heartbreaking observations. Probably made worse by the drizzle and cold typical of that season in the region.

In a few weeks, I’m planning to return to the High Plateaus and also Sainte Marie. On that note, a few questions: has anyone stayed at Samaria Cosy Lodge, and what did you think of it? On Île aux Nattes, which hotel would you recommend for a few peaceful days, ideally on the coast best suited for snorkeling?

Thanks in advance