Review of a Mediterranean cruise on the Splendida and 24 hours in Venice – October 2024
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
4Y
Hi everyone,

What a joy to be back here and pick up where we left off after all these months of hiatus.

I hope you’ll enjoy the story of this little trip around the Eastern Mediterranean. This cruise was the perfect way to satisfy our longing to return to Greece and Istanbul. The end of the season, until late November, is the best time to visit the Mediterranean in my opinion—when climate disruptions don’t get in the way.

Departing from Trieste, our stops were Katakolon, Piraeus, Kusadasi, Istanbul, Corfu, and Bari, before returning to Trieste and then Venice, where we planned a very short 24-hour stay.

We left home at 6:15 AM—our first cruise departure since moving to Normandy. What I miss most about living in the Gard is how close we were to Marseille Airport. No more hopping over to Marignane in an hour; now we have to plan for a three-hour trip to CDG, even under the best conditions on an early Sunday morning.

It was impossible to book a hotel night before our flight because, starting in April, the Ibis was priced at 450 € per night, and the Mercure was flirting with 800 €—breakfast not included, of course. 😏

I had a feeling there must’ve been a conference or something going on… Turns out, it was just the auto show. They simply adjusted the room prices to match the cost of the cars. 😛

Our flight took us to Venice, where we caught a FlixBus to Trieste. We arrived at Trieste’s train station in the afternoon and walked to our hotel in the city center.

After treating ourselves to an amazing pizza at a restaurant (Di Napoli Maestri Pizzaioli, Via Armando Diaz 10) for a very reasonable price, we enjoyed the mild evening temperature while exploring the stunning buildings of this charming city by night. These magnificent structures are a testament to the city’s past. Trieste became Austrian in 1382 due to its complicated relationship with Venice, and it wasn’t until 1918, at the end of World War I, that it became Italian again. The city’s lighting beautifully highlights the architecture of the buildings.

The terraces were lively, and the atmosphere was so warm and inviting that we wanted to stay out even longer.



But we’d been up since 4 AM, so we were happy to retreat to the quiet of our hotel, located in the pedestrian center just a few steps from the port (Urban Hotel Design—highly recommended).

More to come soon.
Catherine
MI Mich74 Veteran ·
Hi Catherine, Here for the rest... Mich74
AL AlineP Regular ·
Hello, I’m so happy to find your trip reports on this forum. It’s always a pleasure to read you. Best regards, Aline
http://alinepotier.travellerspoint.com https://www.polarsteps.com/AlinePotier
AL Alfre99410 Veteran ·
Hi Catherine!

You can’t imagine how happy I am to read your travel journals—I really love your writing style.

As for hotel prices, it’s insane, and sometimes I wonder if they even realize it. They treat tourists like cash cows. The worst I’ve seen was in Los Angeles, and don’t even get me started on breakfast prices. It’s ridiculous!

It was definitely more convenient for you to reach the port of Marseille when you lived in the Gard. But hey, you shouldn’t regret the quality of life (much more peaceful) you have in Normandy now.

Looking forward to the rest!

Alfred
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Thanks Michel! :)
Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Hi Aline, I’m so happy to be back on this forum and to have these exchanges here too. Thanks for reading me.
Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Hi Alfred,

I’m so happy to be back in Normandy, and I don’t regret a thing—it’s just the airport that’s a bit far, which is less convenient.

You’re absolutely right about the breakfasts—the prices are totally crazy and unjustified. I’m really glad to be writing trip reports again too.
Catherine
CA Cathielescot Veteran ·
Hi Catherine, also here and thanks for sharing this lovely cruise with us! 😎
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Hi Catherine, I’m so happy to see you here! 🙂
Catherine
MA Matina19 ·
Good evening Catherine,

It’s always a pleasure to follow your posts—thank you for this review. You really have a way with words! I’m so happy the forum is back; we missed it. M.Madeleine
CL Clau05 Globetrotter ·
Hi Catherine, I’m so happy to be back on the forum and to follow your trip report. Best, Claudine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Thanks Claudine, It really makes me happy to know you're reading me.
Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
A heartfelt thank you to everyone for your warm welcome.

Monday, October 21st, Trieste – Embarkation

After an excellent and generous breakfast filled with great Italian products, we set off to explore the city under a radiant sun.

As soon as we left the hotel, a church towered above us at the top of the hill.



A few flights of stairs later, and we’re there.



The church of Santa Maria Maggiore is one of Trieste’s grand Baroque-style churches. It was built in the 17th century, and its construction took decades.





From its forecourt, you can glimpse the sea.



Continuing our walk along the heights of the city, just a few hundred meters away, we reach the Cattedrale di San Giusto Martire, a Romanesque-style cathedral.





Inside, we’re greeted by a more surprising style. Stunning 13th-century Byzantine mosaics cover the domes, though it’s a shame they aren’t better lit.





A chat with the servants of God costs just 1 €—just dial in to hear the monument’s history directly.

Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
You can see the ruins of the Roman theater in Trieste from the sidewalk on the path that leads down to the city.



This theater dates back to the 1st century and was expanded in the 2nd century. It could hold between 3,500 and 6,000 spectators. Imagine that back then, it was located outside the city, right by the sea. Now, it’s about 400 meters from the water. The view from the stands must have been amazing.





A family seems to have taken up residence there.

The Grand Canal is an artificial waterway built in the mid-18th century to allow merchant ships to reach the city center. This made it much easier for them to load and unload goods coming from Dalmatia and the Adriatic regions. At the time, Trieste was a very busy merchant port.





Today, the Grand Canal has a lovely atmosphere. The facades of the surrounding palaces, the churches, the bridges, and the colorful boats all contribute to the feeling that time has stood still...



On the edge of the Grand Canal stands the Church of the Holy Trinity and Saint Spyridon. Behind that very long name is an impressive church built in the late 14th century with Byzantine architecture. The colorful facades, rounded domes, and decorative mosaics make us really want to visit it. But no matter how much we walk around and check every corner for even the smallest open door... we have to face the facts—it’s closed.







To be continued tomorrow... 😉
Catherine
AL Alfre99410 Veteran ·
Quick, quick, the rest!

Have a good evening
CL Clau05 Globetrotter ·
Your story confirms what I thought about Trieste... it's a beautiful city with plenty to see. I had planned visits for a cruise that was supposed to leave from this city, but I canceled it.
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Trieste is indeed very beautiful and really interesting to explore, with a great vibe. We only saw it quickly, but we’ll definitely go back—it’s also perfect for boarding a ship located right in the city center.
Catherine
BA Barriaux Globetrotter ·
Hi there! Thanks for this new review—it’s great to see you back! 😊 I didn’t know you’d moved! If it was your choice and you’re happy in your new life, that’s awesome!

Yes, Italian cities are gorgeous. This summer, we sailed with RCI from Ravenna, and it’s stunning too—those mosaics are incredible!
Norvégian Gém NCL, Horizon CDF, musica MSC, Allure of the seas RCI, sérénade of the seas RCI, Symphony of the seas RCI, Régal PRINCESS, Fantasia MSC, seaside MSC, explorer of the seas RCI
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Hi Marie-Christine,

It’s great to reconnect with you too. This cruise is our first of 2024 because we moved at the beginning of the year. We deliberately chose it—we’d had enough of the heat, mosquitoes, drought, and water shortages. We’re really happy here and don’t regret our decision at all; life is sweet in Normandy.

I hope to visit Ravenna someday too. 😉
Catherine
MU Mum49 Regular ·
Hi Catherine,

Thank you so much for this lovely travel journal. Have a great Sunday! Mum49
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
The Church of Sant'Antonio Nuovo stands majestically at the very end of the Grand Canal, with six large columns adorning its immense façade. Built between 1827 and 1842, it replaced an earlier church that had become too small for the growing population of the city, which was originally constructed in 1771.





The Galleria Tergesteo, now filled with restaurant terraces, is a charming, bright, and pleasant detour worth visiting.







A wide pedestrian avenue leads to Piazza Unità d’Italia.





This is the city’s main square, rectangular in shape, and bordered on three sides by magnificent buildings with Austrian influences. It was here that Mussolini announced the introduction of fascist laws to the Italian people in 1938. The fourth side, open to the sea, offers a sweeping view of the Gulf of Trieste.



Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Hi Guylene, Thanks for your message and for reading me.
Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
A lovely little break at Marina San Giusto in the marina, waiting for our 1:00 PM boarding, was just what we needed.







After this short rest, a small oversight to fix gave us the chance to step into a beautiful pharmacy just a stone’s throw from the port.



Then it was back to the hotel through the pedestrian streets to pick up our luggage—they were lively and bustling in the late morning.





And one last surprise, hidden around a corner: a charming little church with surprising colors as soon as you step inside.





Honestly, I wasn’t expecting Trieste to be such a wonderful discovery. This city truly enchanted me.
Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
We arrived a little early for our scheduled boarding time, and we were the only ones there for the Yacht Club. Everything went very quickly with no waiting at all—just enough time to enjoy the glass of Prosecco offered to us while the administrative formalities were completed, and we were already on board.

In the cabin, we noticed that the welcome bottle of Champagne and the little treats that came with it had disappeared. The managers had been at work once again…





We had a lovely view of La Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia, the city, and the Molo Audace, a stone quay built in the 18th century, a reminder of the city’s important maritime activity at that time.



I was happy to rediscover the pleasure of the mini buffet at the One Pool. There wasn’t much choice, but the quality was excellent, with attentive and warm service. The sun was just right—gentle and warm enough to lie back under its rays with a good book and just relax… Simply enjoying the present moment. Pure bliss! The sun sets quickly at this time of year, its rays bathing the city in a warm glow.



Then, the city began to light up softly.



This evening, service was minimal at the TSL (Top Sail Lounge, the Yacht Club lounge). There was only one waitress, and naturally, at aperitif time, she was overwhelmed, assisted by just one bartender behind the bar. The table of appetizers remained empty after being raided. The pianist was virtual—just a few notes playing on their own.

It was tricky to get to the Olivo restaurant at the other end of the ship. We didn’t pay attention and ended up right in the middle of the theater’s post-show rush. We’ll avoid that time slot on the following evenings. A few minutes of waiting at the restaurant entrance, but after that, the meal was good, and the servers were charming.
Catherine
CA Cathielescot Veteran ·
Trieste is really a lovely city to explore 😎
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Yes, really very beautiful and charming. Lovely spot to take a break and not a "pose" like I mistakenly wrote. 🤪 😇 😠
Catherine
AL Alfre99410 Veteran ·
Hi Catherine,

I really love your writing style—it’s such a treat! You should go on trips more often so you can write more reviews for us.

I agree with Catherine—Trieste is absolutely gorgeous!

On the other hand, if there’s no welcome champagne or little treats... is it still worth getting a YC? Given the prices, I think it might be better to look into luxury cruise lines instead.

Anyway, you’ll tell us all about it in your conclusion.

Looking forward to the next part! Alfred
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Thanks Alfred, of course I agree about going on cruises more often. 😉

The real shame is that this is yet another perk that’s disappearing. The only things left are the "all-you-can-drink" Champagne in the bars and the bottle you can choose from a list. The evening chocolates and other treats are still around—those are Venchi chocolates, the best I’ve had from any of the cruise lines we’ve tried, or macarons and other really good stuff that’s sometimes a bit out of the ordinary.

As for whether the YC (Yacht Club) is worth it, it depends on the price and the deal you find.

This time when I booked my cruise, the Oceania cruise that could’ve interested me in the Eastern Mediterranean was 4,125 € per person for a week, and I paid 2,640 € per person for this 10-day cruise on the Splendida.
Catherine
AL Alfre99410 Veteran ·
Thanks Alfred, of course I agree about going on cruises more often. 😉

The real shame is that this is yet another perk disappearing. The only things left are the "unlimited" Champagne in the bars and the bottle you can choose from a list. The evening chocolates and other treats are still around—Venchi chocolates, the best I’ve had from any cruise line we’ve tried, or macarons and other high-quality goodies that are sometimes really special.

As for whether the YC is worth it, it depends on the price and the deal you find.

This time, when I booked my cruise, the Oceania cruise that had caught my eye in the Eastern Mediterranean was 4,125 € per person for a week, and I paid 2,640 € per person for this 10-day cruise on the Splendida.

Ah, okay, I get it!

At that price, the YC is still a good deal, but beyond that, you really have to crunch the numbers.

On the other hand, I think Oceania is getting more and more expensive (unless there’s an exceptional promo), and according to Cruise Critic, the service quality is going downhill.

Maybe it’s time to start looking into Silversea, Seabourn... I think they offer very attractive rates and more appealing itineraries.
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
On the other hand, I find that Oceania is getting more and more expensive (except for exceptional promotions) and according to Cruise Critic, the services are declining.

Hi Alfred,

I also find Oceania more and more expensive with fewer and fewer included perks. As for the quality, that’s exactly what I noticed on our last Oceania cruise in September 2023.
Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Tuesday, October 22, at sea

We always prefer having breakfast in the YC lounge rather than the traditional restaurant. The selection is wide enough for us, and the products are really good. We watch the sunrise live over the horizon against a blue sky—perfect for a day at sea.

Before it gets too crowded, we head out for our morning walk. Being in the middle of the sea with a 360° horizon is always a special pleasure. Then it’s time to relax, sunbathe, and read. We skip the 11 AM cocktail—we’re too comfortable on the pool terrace soaking up the sun.

The afternoon is very hot, and the jacuzzi and pool areas are packed. First downside of traveling during school holidays: a one-year-old in a diaper in the jacuzzi!!! The "flavor" of the broth will only get richer and more fragrant.

We’re not thrilled by the evening show, so we leave between two acts before it ends. The gala dinner is excellent—foie gras, lobster, tournedos Rossini, etc. The chef is Italian, and the meals are really good, with high-quality ingredients.
Catherine
MI Mich74 Veteran ·
Hi Catherine (The aroma of the cultural broth will only be richer and more fragrant.) What a lovely phrase—it really made me laugh 😄 mich74
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Hey Michel, I’d rather laugh about it than be disgusted. 😉
Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Wednesday, October 23, Katakolon

The ship arrived at 7:00 AM and we all had to be back on board by 2:30 PM—it’s a bit short, but that won’t spoil our fun as we reunite (once again) here. We’re starting to get used to the place.

We head out as soon as the excursions have left and the path is no longer crowded, for a little hike on the other side of the peninsula. When we walk through town, almost none of the shops are open yet, and it’s a bit chilly.

The little train to Olympia for 10 € is on time, and its return is scheduled for 2:00 PM. The road out of Katakolon is dangerous—there’s no sidewalk, and cars drive pretty fast. But we quickly turn left, and traffic becomes almost nonexistent.



It’s olive harvest and pruning season in the fields and private gardens. Large tarps are spread on the ground, and the trees are combed with specialized motorized tools. Many branches are broken, and the woman rakes them to sort through. The people working are very kind and friendly.





We start to see the sea, but reaching it is another story. Most access paths are privatized and tightly secured.





After several unsuccessful attempts, we find a very discreet little staircase with no "no entry" signs.



A few steps later, we’re on a tiny, charming, wild, and deserted beach. A little slice of paradise. But the temperature is a bit too cool for a swim.



Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Wednesday, October 23, Katakolon (continued)

Back the same way with a beautiful view of the mountains we missed on the way out.





This pretty little church is right next to the railway track leading to Olympia.





On the way back, we avoid the dangerous road by walking along the long beach in Katakolon all the way to the port. A prime spot for a camper van.





This walk is really pleasant, the weather is lovely, and there isn’t a breath of wind. The little port has kept the same charm for the 20 years we’ve been visiting regularly.





After a few errands (ouzo and honey—a producer sells oak honey, which is really good), it’s time for one of our little pleasures when we’re in Greece: a glass of Retsina at the port before heading back to the ship.

The afternoon is spent resting and reading, lazily stretched out on the ship’s deck. You can hear the wind blowing, but we’re nice and sheltered behind the protective windows at the bow. This afternoon, a new record in the jacuzzi—10 people! 3 adults and 7 kids.
Catherine
LE Leototo Regular ·
Hi Catherine,

Thanks for this lovely travel journal—it was a pleasure to read!

Have a great day.
MU Mum49 Regular ·
Hi Catherine, The stop in Katakolon is always nice since the port is close to the small town. Thanks for the lovely photos. Have a great day! Mum49
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
It's a pleasure to write a review when it's well received—thanks for your message.
Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Hi Guylene, I share your opinion—it’s always a pleasure to stop at Katakolon. This port is charming and welcoming.
Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Thursday, October 24, Piraeus, Athens

The day hasn’t broken yet when the boat docks at the port of Piraeus.



Bright sunshine and wind this morning. We’re at the very end of the new port, at the Themistocles Cruise Terminal. A bus stop to get to the Acropolis was set up right at the port exit, but by the time we arrive, the bus has just left—the next one won’t be for another hour or so.

We’d rather stick to our plan and walk to the metro, 2.7 km away, along the port. The stroll isn’t the most pleasant, with the frantic traffic, cigarette smoke, makeshift camps, and the smell of urine… Everything you’d expect from a big-city port, really.

To get to the historic heart of Athens by metro, you take the green line, No. 1. The train is waiting. For 2.30 € round trip, we’ve got 8 stops before getting off at Omonia. Monastiraki is closer to the Acropolis, but this way, we can walk up a nice avenue.

From Omonia Square, Athenas Avenue leads straight to the Monastiraki district. It’s on this avenue that you’ll find the Athens Central Market, the city’s main market. It’s organized by type of goods, and at this hour, it’s in full swing. Dozens of butchers are lined up, working side by side.





On the other side of the butchers’ street, fish stalls are overflowing with the day’s fresh catch. The bonito, the size of large mackerel, make us wince. Check out the prices displayed.







This little detour wasn’t originally part of the plan, so we missed the market’s basement and the nearby side streets. Along the way, squeezed between two imposing, charm-free buildings, a tiny church stands its ground.



Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Thursday, October 24, Athens (continued)

The climb up to the Acropolis at this time of day is pleasant without the heat.







The higher you go, the more crowded it gets, and when you reach the top, it’s tourist hell—huge crowds and endless lines.

The viewpoint over the city is dangerous because the stones on the ground are so worn and polished they’re extremely slippery—it’s like an ice rink, and everyone’s very careful.





It’s also a climate nightmare for the olive trees dried out by the summer’s scorching heat. Their leaves range from yellow ochre to brown ochre—what kindling for fires!





Heading back down into the city through quiet, peaceful little streets is much more enjoyable.



Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Thursday, October 24, Athens (continued)

The Orthodox Cathedral of Athens, built between 1842 and 1862, is stunning. Its beautiful façade on Syntagma Square is imposing, and its richly decorated interior architecture is breathtaking.







In this neighborhood, traffic is completely gridlocked, and I feel bad for people stuck in taxis. It’s better to get around on foot—you end up walking more. The little tavernas we used to know now have hundreds of tables stretching as far as the eye can see. Slim chance they’ll have Retsina—it’s more like beer and burgers. This overtourism vibe makes us want to leave.





We should’ve gone back to eat in the market district—we didn’t even think of it.

The shops in the Plaka neighborhood are the same as everywhere else in big cities around the world, stocked with containers straight from China. No personality, no charm, and sometimes even tacky.





We start thinking we’d be better off going back to eat on the ship. Ten minutes later, we take the metro, then a taxi (10 €) to return to the comfort and quiet of the One Pool—without the crowds. Plus, there’s no one around since everyone’s off on excursions. Perfect for us.
Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Thursday, October 24, Athens (continued)

This afternoon, we have the choice between lounging in the sun or continuing our wanderings in search of new horizons. The question doesn’t linger for long.

The goal of our walk is the old small port of Piraeus, which has changed a lot since the first time we visited. Today, it’s called Zea Marina.



At the entrance of the port, on the sea side, the most beautiful yachts are showing off, side by side, each one more stunning than the last. They’re truly magnificent, equipped with the most luxurious amenities imaginable.







Numerous trendy bars and restaurants, all dressed in black, line the port, with no originality to set them apart from one another.



As we get closer to the city center, the boats become more reasonably sized.



The heart of the port is reserved for small fishing boats, quite charming with their friendly faces.



Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Thursday, October 24, Athens (continued)

The small tavernas that lined the port many years (or rather, decades) ago have turned into large bars and restaurants with lovely terraces overlooking the marina.





This lovely stroll saved our day because we were quite disappointed by central Athens.

After walking over 19 km on foot, it’s so nice to return to the cozy comfort of the boat and relax in peace (as always) with a good book.

The Virgin Scarlet Lady, docked next to us, sets sail just before our departure. When I hear the noise and blaring music from the upper deck, I have no desire to try out this cruise line.



The wind is blowing hard as we pass Cape Sounion—it’ll rock us to sleep nicely.
Catherine
CL Clecarmen ·
Hello and thank you for your very helpful and interesting review! The jacuzzi story horrifies me. How could MSC staff not intervene in a case like that? I see you were in the YC—is it the jacuzzi at the ONE POOL that’s involved? That would be the last straw! We’re interested in an itinerary this spring on the Splendida, which I never considered before because it seems the YC on this ship only recently opened. From reading your review, it sounds great (aside from the jacuzzi ). I’ll keep reading your review carefully. See you later,
gg
AL Alfre99410 Veteran ·
Hi Catherine,

Thanks for this lovely travel journal—it’s such a treat to read you! 😊
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Hello and thank you for your very appreciated and interesting review! The jacuzzi story horrifies me. How can MSC staff not intervene in a case like that? I see you were in YC. Is it the jacuzzi at the ONE POOL that’s involved? That would be the last straw! We’re interested in an itinerary this spring on the Splendida, which I never considered before because it seemed the YC on this ship only existed recently. After reading your review, it looks great (apart from the jacuzzi ). I’ll keep reading your review carefully. See you later.

Hello Gilberte, Thanks for reading and enjoying my story—it makes me happy. Yes, it’s the jacuzzi at the One Pool, and the staff never says anything. The YC has been on this ship since the beginning; it was one of the first ships to have one, if I’m not mistaken.
Catherine
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Thanks Alfred 😊 😊
Catherine
MU Mum49 Regular ·
Hi Catherine,

Thanks so much for letting us travel with you. Mum49
4Y 4yne Globetrotter ·
Hello Catherine,

Thank you so much for taking us along on your journey. Mum49

Thanks for following me, but it’s not over yet—just a pause today because of a really busy day.
Catherine

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