Back from Skoura (Morocco)
FR

Translated into English.

MI Milorde Regular ·
Thanks to all of you! The suitcases are packed, and the travel journal is full of great addresses and all sorts of good tips. Now we just have to put them to use. Thanks a lot!
SO Soju Veteran ·
Thanks Elodie for taking the time to share all this info!
SOJU
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
What a great find this forum is!
SO Soju Veteran ·
What a gem this forum is!

It’s true, sometimes it’s just chit-chat, but other times it’s really insightful—and you’ve got to admit it!
SOJU
VE Vero3000 Regular ·
It's true that we also water in the evening to avoid too much evaporation... But not at night... not in my neighborhood!
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
Yes...but...in the palm grove, they also water or irrigate during the day, if I read correctly...
DD Dd44 Veteran ·
During the day, water flows through the irrigation canals. I still remember the morning walk after breakfast—it was amazing to stroll through the palm grove with the sound of running water. Such a relaxing moment!
TR Trostang Globetrotter ·
Completely agree with you. We also love taking morning walks along the singing irrigation channels. It's such a pleasure!
DA Danilo69 Regular ·
Hi Elodie, What a lovely experience you shared! We might stop in Skoura at the end of June and hope we’ll get the chance to take part in watering the garden... One question: did you book before leaving, and if so, how? How many days did you spend in this palm grove? What’s an absolute must-see? Thanks in advance.
DANY
DA Danilo69 Regular ·
Hi Marie-Claude, Your little message really caught my attention. We could stop in Skoura at the end of June. Did you book? How? What sights should we not miss in Skoura? Thanks in advance.
DANY
AI Aichlo Regular ·
Yes, I’d booked quite a while in advance by email, but I think a month ahead is enough—it ensures you get a spot. Skoura has a stunning palm grove and some beautiful kasbahs, including Mohammed’s, but it’s mainly a great base for exploring the region in all directions: the Dades and Todra valleys and gorges, the Valley of Roses, the almond groves, Boutharar, the Draa Valley, etc. It all depends on how much time you have...
aichlo Sans projet de voyage le quotidien est sans couleur! Mes carnets de voyages: http://cojal.canalblog.com/ Mon blog sur Paris, une photo par jour: http://parisvillage.canalblog.com/
DA Danilo69 Regular ·
Thanks Marie-Claude! We’ll get in touch and let them know we’re coming. We’re planning to spend 2 or even 3 days there—is that enough? Thanks a lot.
DANY
EL Elo64 ·
hi marie clausde just got the photos, thanks! i'm on leave after cutting my finger, so I'm watching the rain fall... hugs to both of you élo
ne rêve pas ta vie, vis tes rêves
EL Elo64 ·
hi there we’d planned to spend 2 nights there, which turned into 3, then 6... we felt really good in Skoura. There’s so much to do, Mohammed is a fantastic advisor! And most of all, we just settled in, watched people live their lives, and lived alongside them peacefully... I’d imagined doing a lot more—visiting the Valley of Roses, the Todra Valley—but in the end, not at all... We did go to the Almond Valley with Mohammed, wandered around on foot and then by car. I struggled to truly enjoy the car rides, though. Here’s why: it was beautiful, no doubt about it, but I had this strange feeling of voyeurism, like being in a "zoo." It’s hard to explain, but for me, it felt odd to just drive through these places just to say I’d seen them. For me, the week in Morocco was a great vacation, but it also shook me up, and I really didn’t expect to feel that way going there... We went to the souk in Skoura on Monday, and I was stunned by the way people looked at me (I was shocked and, above all, uncomfortable—I felt like I didn’t belong, like I was intruding). Everyone, from teenagers to grandpas... And yet, despite the heat, I was well-covered: I had my black climbing pants, a long-sleeved tee, a fleece, no makeup, no jewelry... I didn’t understand it, and it was tough for me to feel like I was bothering people. Anyway, I’m rambling—this wasn’t the original topic. In my opinion, a week with Mohammed is the best! Enjoy! Elo
ne rêve pas ta vie, vis tes rêves
VE Vero3000 Regular ·
Elodie, if you have any lovely photos to share with all of us, please don’t hesitate—an illustrated forum is even more interesting! And thank you for your incredibly heartfelt stories. Have a great evening.
DA Danilo69 Regular ·
Thanks so much, Elodie, for your account and all this info. Have a great day.
DANY
SO Soju Veteran ·
I agree with you—when we travel, we sometimes feel like voyeurs. We try to keep a low profile as much as possible, but we’re inevitably spotted quickly. Still, it’s hard to do things any other way; it’s all part of the game.
SOJU
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
It’s almost inevitable! But in Morocco, you can communicate and connect since many people speak a bit of French! As soon as there’s an exchange, you’re less of a spectator. But when you just drive by... well, yeah... it feels like you’re at the zoo...
DA Danilo69 Regular ·
Hi there; Do you know what to bring for a visit to the hammam? Is it easy to go as a tourist? And how long does it usually last? Thanks.
DANY
EL Elo64 ·
Hi there, No idea about the hammam... Mohammed's wife offered to take me, but it was too late on the last day. I don’t remember if you mentioned the Palmeraie guesthouse—if you did, I’m sure Mohammed would be happy to take you there! Elo
ne rêve pas ta vie, vis tes rêves
AS ASkoura ·
Good evening; Do you know what to expect when going to a hammam? Is it easy to go as a tourist? And how long does it last? Thanks.

Good evening, swimsuits for everyone, and a wrap for women if needed. I’d recommend men go to a public hammam, while women should try to get invited to a private one where you’ll be pampered by the neighbors. Ladies, be careful—you might end up with henna, which looks pretty but can quickly look "messy," and that might be a bit awkward to explain when you’re back at the office...
TR Trostang Globetrotter ·
You can buy the glove and black soap at the entrance. Bring a towel. Also bring a plastic stool to avoid having to sit on the floor. They provide buckets for hot and cold water.
SO Soju Veteran ·
You should also check which days are the busiest because if it's too crowded, it's a pain!
SOJU
AX Axelfl Regular ·
I got henna done, and I didn’t feel like I was being tricked—it felt like a gift. Natural henna doesn’t last very long on the skin. I didn’t have any issues when I got back.
DA Danilo69 Regular ·
Thanks to everyone for all this info. We’re interested in the hammam—I didn’t know you could find henna there! Actually, we’ve got everything to discover!
DANY
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
Good evening; Do you know what you need to bring for the hammam? Is it easy to go as a tourist? And how long does it last? Thanks.

Good evening, swimsuits for everyone, and a wrap for women if needed. I’d recommend men go to a public hammam, and women get invited to a private one where you’ll be pampered by the neighbors. Ladies, be careful—you might get tricked into henna, which looks pretty but can quickly look "dirty," and that might not be easy to explain when you’re back at the office...

What’s there to explain? That we were lucky enough to go on vacation?
AX Axelfl Regular ·
I was offered henna at the hostel at the end of my stay. At the hammam, it's possible... I don't know!
SO Soju Veteran ·
maybe in the tourist hammams!
SOJU
DA Danilo69 Regular ·
We’ll discover all these traditions as our trip unfolds, and we’re already thrilled about it. Thanks and have a good evening.
DANY
MI Milo53 Regular ·
If you're heading to Skoura, check in at the hostel. They’ll give you great tips—there are little hammams in the palm grove you can book for an evening, plus the public hammam in town. The vibes are totally different, and you’ve gotta try both!
DA Danilo69 Regular ·
ok Thanks!
DANY
VE Vero3000 Regular ·
At the hammam, it's nice to go in pairs—you can help each other out. You can also ask for a massage!
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
The best thing is to go there with someone from the area—it's much easier!
DA Danilo69 Regular ·
Thanks for all these really useful little tips. We really appreciate it!
DANY
TR Trostang Globetrotter ·
If you choose a small private hammam in the palm grove—we did this after a multi-day trek—you’ll see that the experience is very different depending on whether you're a man or a woman. For men, it’s invigorating; for women, it’s more gentle! Worth checking out!
DA Danilo69 Regular ·
But how do you book these private hammams?
DANY
VE Vero3000 Regular ·
Check with your hostel. They’ll know how to advise you and can even book it for you if needed.
YA Yakavoyager Regular ·
Hey Christophe, I'm leaving in a week and will be stopping in Skoura. I'd love a map of the Skoura palm grove. Is a guide necessary to visit it? Is it peaceful to explore, or are you "harassed from all sides"? Thanks
DD Dd44 Veteran ·
Rest assured, the palm grove is large, but it's quite easy to find your way around thanks to the wadis. We chose accommodation on the edge of the palm grove, so it was easy to access—much simpler, especially when you first arrive! We weren’t hassled, either in the palm grove or at the souk. For our first visit, we were accompanied by the owner of the kasbah where we were staying (La Palmeraie), and after that, we went for walks on our own, morning and evening—it’s really lovely!
SO Songhai73 Globetrotter ·
Hi Elodie, I just got back from Skoura, and I read your little notes in the guestbook at Kasba la Palmeraie. The family is doing well, and the little one is super cute! I wanted to respond to your impression of "voyeurism." I really think there’s no issue—quite the opposite! Moroccans are always happy to see us, especially now that tourism is down. Those looks are just friendly curiosity! I’m near Ait Benhaddou right now, and Morocco is even more beautiful because of the rain—everything’s so green! Looking forward to a great harvest! Best, Francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion! Khalil Gibran
YA Yakavoyager Regular ·
Hi Aichlo, I’m leaving soon with a rental car and I’m planning to go from Telouet to Ait Ben Haddou. How’s the road? I’ve heard there’s a section in bad condition—is it reasonably doable? What’s the total distance between the two points? How many kilometers are rough? And how much time should I allow for the drive without stops? Thanks for the info!
VE Vero3000 Regular ·
You should plan for about 1–1.5 hours. It’s roughly 60 km. The trip can be done in a regular car. Some sections are a bit rough, but you’ll get through.
DA Danilo69 Regular ·
Hi Francia, Since you passed through Télouet, maybe you can give us some details about the road conditions? We’re counting on you, thanks!
DANY
VI Viovio2 Regular ·
We had no issues at all!
DA Danilo69 Regular ·
Glad to hear that! Thanks!
DANY
SO Songhai73 Globetrotter ·
hi there The road is perfect from Ait Benhaddou until a few kilometers before Telouet, where you’ll hit some potholes, but nothing major—it’s totally doable! Right now, I’m in Amtoudi—this place is an absolute gem! Happy travels francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion! Khalil Gibran
TR Trostang Globetrotter ·
We were in Amtoudi in November—it's stunning: the granaries, the site, the view from up there. Extraordinary.
SO Songhai73 Globetrotter ·
Hi there! Yeah, the walk with guide Abdoulay was amazing—the break by the water pools and the return via the plateau. The descent was a bit steep 🏴‍☠️, but the reward was that delicious tagine at the hostel "On dirait le sud"... pure bliss. We’re continuing our journey! Francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion! Khalil Gibran
MI Milo53 Regular ·
I took this walk a few years ago now—such a great memory! We even got to swim in the gueltas before eating in the shade and then setting off to climb the cliff, making sure to step exactly where our guide did. Have a great trip and thanks for bringing back these great moments!
SO Soju Veteran ·
And did you stay at the hostel "On dirait le sud"? I heard the access was a bit tricky... How is it these days?
SOJU

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