Off to explore Jordan!

October 26 - Petra? What else?

The sun has just risen, another beautiful day, … But no friend Ricoré… We only get tea! And Jane isn’t bringing her bread and croissants. We get fresh cheese, hard-boiled eggs, and hummus. Unlike yesterday, we take our time, we’re lazing around. "Hey! Don’t be a pain! We’re on vacation, after all!" Alright, we settle our two nights here (fifty dinars per person) and jump into our shorts to tackle the second day of visiting Petra! On the way, a quick "grocery" stop at the local Arab shop (that one was easy) where they don’t often see tourists… They looked so surprised and happy to see us show up! In the end, our picnic for the day costs one dinar per person! Store voted best chain of the year, "cheap" category!

It’s almost 9:30 AM when we enter the siq for the last time, and strangely, we’re alone in the world! At this hour, I expected to relive the first-day sales rush, but no, … no one, not a group, not a goat, not a local Arab, not a Euromarché… And what’s more, the light is better than yesterday! So, I feel a little less guilty for giving in to the girls’ lazy proposal… As you know, what women want, men want. Or God wills it, I don’t remember, but it’s kind of the same!… In the end, this last crossing of the siq was just as magical as the others. This route is definitely nicer than the one I used to walk every day between Rue des Capucins and Place de l’Hôtel de Ville to go to work before… Of course, at the exit of the siq, we can’t help but camp out again for long minutes in front of the Khazneh. We don’t get the chance to stand in front of a world wonder every day! Other than my wife, of course!! You’ll excuse me, but even if this last remark is a bit cheesy, I’d rather put it in to avoid a domestic scene…

Alright, we say goodbye to the Treasury and push a little further, to the Street of Facades and the theater. Little holes, little holes, more little holes… They’re everywhere! The whole mountain is dotted with tombs carved into the rock. As I already told you, eight hundred tombs have already been discovered in Petra. What’s most surprising is that archaeological excavations have only been carried out on five percent of the site, the rest still being covered by about ten meters of sand. If you’re an archaeologist looking for a job, Petra is waiting for you!



What makes the site beautiful is not only the tombs carved and sculpted into the mountain but also the unreal colors of the rock. Red, blue, gray, white, yellow… Truly magnificent! Alright, magnificent here, wonderful there… Superlatives, always superlatives… Anyway, you’ll have understood, after a little over a day spent here, we’re already won over. Everything we’d heard or read about Petra before coming is completely justified, even underestimated! Let’s get rid of the other superlatives right away, so it’s done: It’s beautiful, magnificent, immense, superb, remarkable, amazing, wondrous, sublime, marvelous, incomparable, magnificent, … Oh no, I already said that, … but it’s true that it’s magnificent! And as Lawrence of Arabia, whom we met yesterday in front of the Khazneh, said, "You can be sure that until you’ve seen this with your own eyes, you won’t have the slightest idea of how beautiful this place can be." And the theater then? Well, it’s really impressive. And no, I hadn’t used that superlative yet! Entirely carved into the rock, it could hold up to eight thousand five hundred people! The only disappointment is that access is closed for some reason, and we won’t be able to climb its steps…









No problem, other steps are on the program! Off we go to climb the High Place of Sacrifice! Of course, we’re offered the services of Whatshisname the mule or Nono the camel to climb the mountain, but no thanks, the mountain wins us over! And who says climbing the High Place of Sacrifice, says… sacrifice! Well, it was Muriel who volunteered and sacrificed her favorite hiking shoe, the left one, during this climb. No, she didn’t offer it to the gods of climbing by burning it or tearing it to shreds… That would’ve had class! Though… Now that I think about it, I’m not sure Jordanian psychiatric hospitals are in the top ten must-see visits… Actually, her shoes proudly displayed 2,392 kilometers on the odometer and gave up just a few meters from the summit. The hazards of live action! Alright, we didn’t come here just for Muriel to sacrifice her shoes; there’s a view that’s worth the trip! And that famous view, perhaps the most beautiful in all of Petra, is truly indescribable!! So no need to insist, I won’t describe it to you… In-des-crip-table! And as usual, almost everyone abandoned us and stayed down below, on the highway. In other words, we’re practically alone! The only advice I can give you: Enjoy, it’s free! Though it’s better not to be afraid of heights, like Sandrine, for example...









To go back down, three options: Either we take the same path as on the way up, or we jump off the top of the cliff, or we take the path that follows Wadi Farasa. First option, … no, too repetitive. The second, … no, too quick… We choose the third option! However, the difficulty is finding the start of the path… No problem! A Jordanian escorts us to the staircase that leads to it. They’re really nice, these Jordanians! Here, we’re really off the beaten track. We don’t pass or cross anyone except tombs carved into the rock, statues carved into the rock, staircases carved into the rock, and… an old trinket seller from China who set up her stall in the middle of nowhere! There, our student memories resurface (we all studied the same thing). We almost hesitate to give her a little lesson on business strategies that would clearly not be out of place! I doubt that the spot is well chosen to sell her plastic camels or fridge magnets with the king’s effigy! Anyway, for the rest, know that this route is worth the detour! Lion Fountain, Garden Tomb, Roman Soldier Tomb, ...



I won’t describe all the tombs we visited during this descent, not because they’re not interesting but because the photos will speak for themselves. And you’ll be happy to discover all this for yourself once you’re there...







For lunch, I found us a little out-of-the-way restaurant… The kind of high-end restaurant we all love! On the menu, the chef offers: Sardine bites with a drizzle of olive oil as a starter, and potato crisps with a beef jelly medley as the main course. Come on, stop drooling, actually, we’re sitting on rocks and eating canned sardines and vacuum-packed corned beef with chips and bread! Said like that, it’s less dreamy! But as good backpackers who respect themselves, we love picnics! The principle is simple: Be alone, have something to eat and drink on hand, and above all… have a nice view! And here again, as often in Jordan, we’re served. We indeed enjoy our feast with a view of the mountain where the royal tombs are carved, where all the local celebrities are buried… Actually, it’s a bit like our Pantheon, … except it has nothing to do with it. By the way, speaking of the royal tombs, it’s now time to go visit them...







Among these tombs, the most characteristic is the Urn Tomb, recognizable by the monumental urn that crowns its pediment. It was probably built in 70 for King Aretas IV. Nearby, the Palace Tomb, a delightful three-story imitation of a Roman or Hellenistic palace, has a very elaborate façade that likely serves more of a decorative than a religious function… Alright, okay, there you’re thinking my style is veering more toward a tourist guide than anything else. And you’re not really wrong… Actually, I was copying the Lonely Planet to take a break. I’m allowed, I’m on vacation! So if you want to know more, it’s up to you to work, go to page 230 of the Lonely, everything is explained there! What I can still add about the royal tombs is that they’re almost as impressive as the Khazneh, even if they’re not as well preserved. And here, since there are no steps to climb, we’re not far from the entrance, and there are souvenir shops everywhere, it’s obviously the herd’s favorite spot! By the way, on that subject, we can say that half of the groups and individuals we met in Petra were French… I thought there was a crisis in France!...





Alright, crowds are nice, but being alone is better! So we pass the last royal tomb, and as if by magic, we find ourselves again, all four of us, in a landscape worthy of the American Wild West… "Oh! Look over there, it’s John Wayne on his horse!" Oh no, actually, it was Audi on his donkey Shakira… But from afar, it really looks like it! It’s now four o’clock… There, you’re probably wondering what we’re doing here at this hour while the sun is setting and we’re moving further from the exit? Don’t worry, stay calm, we’re not lost! The exit, actually, I’m looking for it! I planned to leave the site through Petra’s secret exit… Through a very narrow canyon, Wadi Muthlim, to be precise! Once inside, I immediately thought I should warn you: If twenty kilos are weighing you down around the hips or waist, depending on whether you’re a woman or a man, turn back and forget this route! Some passages are so narrow that a person could get stuck. No problem for my three funny ladies, it fits! Just barely, but it fits! For info, know that once in the canyon, you’ll always have to turn right when the path splits in two… unless it’s left? I don’t remember, … you’ll see when you get there!...





Alright, a pinch of acrobatics, a good dose of climbing, and an hour of cooking later, we finally glimpse the end of the tunnel and emerge right where the siq ends, proud as camels! And then, it’s cool, we managed to keep up the pace and complete the program for these two days… On that note, three days on site would’ve been perfect to wander really relaxed. Two days allowed us to see everything, or almost, without dawdling too much. "Come on girls, let’s move!" However, those who visit the site in a single day, that’s really nonsense! So for you who aren’t Japanese or worse, Chinese, two days minimum for Petra and it’s non-negotiable!

Alright, one last moist glance in the rearview mirror for a final goodbye to Petra and back to the Mitsu! It doesn’t seem like it, but it’s practically nighttime, and we need to find a place to sleep! "Don’t worry girls, I’ve selected two or three hotels, we’ll find one quickly!" First hotel, … full… Second hotel, … full… We arrive at the third hotel, and there, … well, it’s full too… What suspense! Will I manage to find a bed for my butt, like a shoe for my foot but bed version? My reputation as an organizer is taking a hit… I need to find a solution! I then play my last card: The Saba’a card that Ibrahim, aka Jack Daniel’s, our savior in Dana, gave me! When we arrive at the establishment, Ibrahim is there. And after a hearty hug, he finds us a solution for 24 dinars for two, breakfast included! They’re really nice, these Jordanians! Once settled and after two days of walking, forty kilometers and more than three thousand steps climbed or descended, a little pick-me-up would do us a world of good! For that, what’s better than a hammam? Ahhh, getting massaged by a beautiful Jordanian with hazel eyes and fairy hands in a hot and humid atmosphere… The dreaaam… But no luck, it was only a dream because in the end, it was a big mustachioed guy who took care of me! In the 20-dinar package at Salome Hammam, you get a steam bath at sixty degrees, two buckets of ice water in the face to wake you up, a little rest on a hot marble slab, another bucket of ice water to be really sure you’re awake, … Then a massage, scrub, and to finish, the little cup of tea that goes well… Bonus gift for Chloé: Dina, her masseuse, insists on redoing her hair, a little pink bow on top! Refreshed, we end the evening at Al-Wadi restaurant where we all let ourselves be tempted by a gallay, … "It’s like a kind of couscous," the waiter told us!! Couscous, yes, but without semolina, without merguez, without beef, without chickpeas, without harissa, … Just vegetables and lamb!

Alright, it’s been four days since we arrived, maybe we should call France, huh? Not really knowing how to proceed, we ask Saïdi, the co-manager of our hotel… As usual, our Jordanian host takes care of everything… Off he goes to town to buy us a phone card for two dinars. According to him, we have more than an hour of talk time to France! They’re really nice, these Jordanians! I repeat myself often, don’t I? By the way, in France, it’s freezing! It’s zero degrees! Alright, that’s enough, we need to go to bed, tomorrow we’ve got a road trip! Anyway, tomorrow is another adventure...

Was that before you knew about the US slot canyons, Franck? 😉 Anyway, you're showing us Petra like I never would've imagined—it's absolutely stunning! The rock in some places looks almost marbled. Thanks a million! About the hammam and your dream of a beautiful Jordanian woman, you reminded me of that little guy with the trifocal glasses who took care of me in Tunisia! 😏😏😏

Was that before you knew about the US slot canyons, Franck? 😉 Anyway, you’re showing us Petra like I never could’ve imagined—it’s absolutely stunning! The rock in some places looks almost marbled. Thanks a million! For the hammam and your dream of a beautiful Jordanian woman, you reminded me of that little guy with the trifocal glasses who took care of me in Tunisia! 😏😏😏

The United States before 2010—I went there three times but never did any slot canyons (obviously fixed that since, and I’ve got more planned...). Glad to (re)introduce you to Petra in a new light! 😉 The hammam—I’ve tried many around the world, and this one was, how can I put it... uh... brutal... 😏

On the other hand, those who visit the site in just one day—it’s really nonsense! So for you who isn’t Japanese or, worse, Chinese, two days minimum for Petra, and that’s non-negotiable!

Given everything there is to see and all those kilometers to cover, I really don’t see how anyone could be satisfied with just one day there! Besides, if I remember correctly what you wrote, the ticket you buy is valid for two days.

I thought the Jordanian dinar was "devalued" compared to the euro, like the Moroccan or Algerian dinar. Big mistake! I just checked its exchange rate, and you have to spend nearly 1.3 € to get 1 Jordanian dinar!

And then I realize that the entrance fee (50 dinars not long before your visit, probably more now) isn’t cheap! It’s all relative, you’ll tell me, but compared to the cost of accommodations or meals, it’s still quite expensive, isn’t it? Anyway, the site is absolutely stunning (but you already said that, I think 😉) and you really sold it well... Shows your studies weren’t for nothing...😉

It doesn’t seem like it, but it’s practically nighttime, and we need to find a place to sleep! « Don’t worry, girls, I’ve picked out two or three hotels—we’ll find something quickly! » First hotel: "fully booked." Second hotel: "fully booked." We get to the third hotel, and—"well, it’s fully booked too."

I see you didn’t book all your nights in advance—wasn’t necessary? (Except for that time, of course. 😛)

And then I thought to myself that the entrance fee to the site (50 dinars not long before your visit, probably more by now) isn’t cheap!

Today, it’s 50 for a day (*), 55 for two days, and 60 JD for 3 days. But such a wonder at that price is a steal. Plus, it’s even cheaper with the Jordan Pass.

(*) As long as you’re there in person. For day trips from Israel or Egypt, it’s 90 JD!

Here we go for the climb to the High Place of Sacrifice!

From the High Place of Sacrifice, you can take a detour (unmarked) that lets you get up high, facing the Treasury, but on the left side—not the right side where you went. I’d hired a gui... well, a Jordanian guy who was passing by to take me there.

Of course, we’re offered the services of Whatshisname the mule or So-and-so the camel to climb the mountain again

When I was there, a few months after you, it was Ursula and Momo. But there was also Enrico.

For the way down, three options: Either we take the same path as on the way up, jump off the top of the cliff, or take the path following Wadi Farasa. First option—nah, too repetitive. Second option—nah, too quick. So we go with the third!

Clearly the right choice.

The tricky part, though, is finding the start of the path... No problem! A Jordanian escorts us to the stairs that lead to it.

From what I remember, there are still quite a few cairns to mark the way.

I’m planning to leave the site via Petra’s secret exit—a super narrow canyon, Wadi Muthlim, to be exact!

I knew about another exit, but not that one. Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind for next time, when we can go back (in 2022? 😛)

Two days minimum for Petra, and that’s non-negotiable!

Actually, the minimum is more like 3 days. And they generously give us the fourth day for free (aren’t we in Jordan after all?).

Hi Franck, Thanks for this travel journal. The photos of Petra are amazing. Can't wait for the rest!

Yes, Jordan is a wealthier country than the Maghreb nations, and the local currency exchange rate reflects that... And yes, the entrance fees are expensive compared to accommodation or food, but as Masterpro said, it’s worth it!

For booking nights, no, I hadn’t reserved everywhere. After careful research before leaving, I’d marked the places where I really wanted to stay. Those, I booked before departure. For the others, I just noted the names, figuring I’d decide on the spot. Actually, that’s how I usually travel...

See you tonight, Pascal, for the Wadi Rum!

With everything there is to see and all those kilometers to cover, I really don’t see how anyone could be satisfied with just one day there!

I think 90% of tourists stop at the Khazneh, which is right after the Siq. It’s the iconic temple and what people come for! Yeah, I know it’s silly, but at least afterward, you’ve got the rest of the visit to yourself

Hey there 😏! Which way did you go out? Also, your route to see the Treasury from a different angle sounds interesting... Got a photo?

Seeing everything there is to see and all those kilometers to cover, I really don’t see how anyone could be satisfied with just one day there!

I think 90% of tourists stop at the Treasury, which is right after the Siq. It’s the iconic temple and what people come for! Yeah, I know it’s silly, but at least afterward, you’ve got the rest of the visit to yourself

That’s what shocked me, and it’s what I was saying on my first day here: Most people only come for the day (cruise ship or organized tour from Egypt or Israel). They walk through the Siq (on foot or by carriage), see the Treasury, and leave without even realizing what they’ve missed. And when they get back, they say, "Yeah, I’ve done Petra..." Ugh...

Today, it's 50 for one day (*), 55 for two, and 60 JD for 3 days. But such a wonder at this price is a steal. Plus, it's even cheaper with the Jordan Pass.

The Jordan Pass gives you 3-day access to Petra !

The Jordan Pass gives you 3-day access to Petra!

No, not exactly. You pay for the Jordan Pass based on the number of days at Petra. 1 day: 99 JOD 2 days: 106 JOD 3 days: 113 JOD

Note that they charge 7 JOD for an extra day, even though it normally costs only 5 JOD...

Anyway, the Jordan Pass is barely more expensive than the visa and Petra entry. It pays off if you visit Jerash, for example. Plus, it saves you from exchanging money at the airport.

Which way did you go out?

Well, I always went out through the Siq :P But there’s another exit I’d noted, described in a VF travel journal. I’ll try to find it again.

Also interesting, your route to see the Treasury from another angle... Do you have a photo?

I didn’t post it so I wouldn’t clutter your journal. Here’s what it looks like:

Today, it's 50 for one day (*), 55 for two, and 60 JD for 3 days. But such a wonder at this price is a steal. Plus, it's even cheaper with the Jordan Pass.

Thanks for the updated rates. 😉 As I was saying, it's all relative—if you compare those 60 JD for 3 days to the $50 you have to shell out for a rushed 30 minutes in one of Antelope Canyon's canyons (Page, USA), it *is* a steal, just like you said!

If you're spending 3 days there, you’ll need to stay nearby. Is there enough accommodation in the area?

Today, it's 50 JD for one day (*), 55 JD for two, and 60 JD for 3 days. But such a wonder at this price is a steal. Plus, it's even cheaper with the Jordan Pass.

Thanks for the updated rates. 😉 As I was saying, it's all relative—if you compare those 60 JD for 3 days to the $50 you have to shell out for a rushed 30 minutes in one of Antelope Canyon's slots (Page, USA), it *is* a steal, just like you said!

If you're spending 3 days there, you’ll need to stay somewhere nearby. Is there enough accommodation in the area?

The Seven Wonders Bedouin Camp where we spent our first night near Petra was really great! For Antelope Canyon, I’m glad I did it... before... 😏

Actually, I usually do it this way for my trips...

And it seems to work out pretty well! My only hesitation with this approach is worrying about wasting time during the day looking for a place to sleep that night.

See you tonight Pascal for the Wadi Rum!

Wouldn’t miss it for the world! 😉

If you're spending 3 days there, you’ll want to stay not too far away. Is the accommodation supply in the area sufficient?

Of course. There are two spots for all budgets—one at the entrance to the site (there’s even a Mövenpick) and another in the village of Wadi Musa (there’s even a Hyatt).

I was there in March 2011, as a replacement for Japan (you can easily guess why...). The options were already plentiful back then. I imagine they’ve only increased since.

Awesome, boss!!

Thanks! 😎 Photo taken lying flat on my stomach, needless to say...

Thanks 😎 Photo taken lying flat on my stomach, needless to say...

Needless to say 😎 I’ll let my husband take this photo if I can convince him to go to Jordan 🙂

There are two spots for all budgets, at the entrance to the site (there’s even a Movenpick) and in the village of Wadi Musa (there’s even a Hyatt).

There’s plenty to do, thanks for the details! Anyway, given the crowds, I guess it’s best to book...

I was there in March 2011, instead of Japan (you can easily guess why...).

No kidding! 😕 Is Japan on the agenda this year, or is it a no-go?

I was thinking of going in September (I usually book a month or two in advance), but it’s not ideal. I’ve always wanted to go in February, when it’s covered in snow. This’ll be the perfect opportunity...

October 27th - Are there toilets in Wadi Rum?

The night could’ve been perfect if our buddy Ali the muezzin hadn’t belted out his prayers at five in the morning through the neighborhood mosque’s loudspeaker. You better believe it—wakes you up faster than a cold shower! If I run into that guy... he’s gonna get his goatee pulled! Anyway, it’s six o’clock now, I open one eye… Six-thirty, I open the second… At this rate, it’ll take me all morning just to shower and get dressed… except today, no time for lazing around—we’re hitting the road! On the list of must-see spots in Jordan, you’ve probably already heard of Petra… Check! Now, does Wadi Rum ring a bell? No? Well, perfect—because that’s where we’re headed today! After one last hot shower (who knows when the next one will be?) and a hearty breakfast, we rev up our mechanical thunder and hit the road toward the mountainous desert of Wadi Rum. We get there in an hour and a half, despite a pit stop at the gas station, a police checkpoint, a herd of suicidal goats, some steep climbs in first gear… and, of course, the mandatory pee break. Yeah, remember—I’ve got three ladies in the Mitsubishi who need to go!

When we arrive at the Wadi Rum visitor center, another surprise: the price magically jumped from two dinars (as listed in the guidebooks) to five dinars per person. This tiny 150% hike apparently took effect on September 1st… Of course, it’s totally justified! I mean, who wouldn’t pay to enter a desert? Just think of the cost of hauling all that sand here! Anyway, moving on… Twenty dinars lighter, we’re off for two days with our feet and tires in the sand! And there, our tiny caravan suddenly fell silent, humbled by the sheer grandeur of the landscape… Look at me, showing off! But you know me too well—you guessed it… That’s not my line. It’s from that English guy, Lawrence of Arabia, who wrote a book describing the place. There’s even a movie about his life—check it out, it’s set right here in Wadi Rum!

We pass the Seven Pillars of Wisdom mountain. One, two, three, four, five… six rock spires! Where’s the seventh? Then we arrive at the village of Rum, where we’ve got a meet-up with the Jordantracks agency for a day trip. And there you go, I can already hear you laughing: *‘Oh, the noobs! They’re playing backpackers but still need a guide!’* Stop laughing and listen: Actually, we don’t really care about the guide. What we need is his 4x4 to take us south toward the Saudi Arabian border. I promise, tomorrow we’ll do everything on foot and solo! But hold on, don’t rush me—I’ll tell you what I thought of this agency later. For now, I’ve got other things to do, like loading our bags into the beat-up 4x4 that’ll be our desert chariot until tonight. Our guide, who looks newer than the car, is the one driving it! 438,192 kilometers on the odometer—anyone got a higher number? This thing is stripped of everything, including comfort! No handbrake, busted seats, windows that won’t roll up, a broken side mirror… But hey, the dashboard’s covered in sheepskin—that’s a sure sign the vehicle’s well-maintained! We wanted authenticity, and we got it! To wrap up introductions, our guide’s name is Awad, and he’s twenty-three. Alright, now that everyone’s met, let’s go—follow our 4x4 tracks and don’t dawdle, we’re not here to sunbathe!

Heading due south to Jabal Burdah, the mountain we’re climbing this morning! Before we get there, we’ve got an hour of bumpy roads while admiring landscapes that make you want to stretch your legs. Once we arrive, we fill our water bottles, limber up, and off we go! The climb takes about forty-five minutes. Nothing too tough—except for Sandrine, who’ll complain at every little challenge: *‘This is too hard! And the snow’s too soooft!’* But damn, the mountain is beautiful… How can landscapes this grand even exist? My jaw’s practically on the ground, mouth wide open—I can’t even close it. Check out the photos! Go on, feast your eyes—my treat!









On top of the view, the cherry on top is the natural arch perched at the summit… As you can guess, walking across it didn’t cross Sandrine’s mind. Me? I’m charging ahead, joined by Chloé and Muriel! No fear! Well… okay, maybe a *little* fear. Suddenly, we’re not so cocky anymore! Adrenaline pumping like crazy… Perched on my arch, I take the opportunity to show off and try to make Sandrine sick—until Awad one-ups me by crossing it… on his hands. *‘Oh, look at him showing off!’* Jordan, one—France, zero…







Alright, time to head back down? Shhh… Quiet, and just look. We sit for long minutes, soaking in the view in silence. Pure zen… The organized chaos of our French lives feels a million miles away. Speaking of which, there aren’t many places left where you can sit and hear *nothing*—no cars, no construction, no scooters, not even a Céline Dion song to ruin the moment. That’s one of the things I loved most about this desert… Not the lack of Céline Dion (though that’s a plus), but the lack of noise! Pay attention! And to think, back in France right now, there’s a general strike! I can just picture you in line, trying to scrounge up a drop of fuel… Meanwhile, we’ve got fuel in our legs! So, the descent? A piece of cake… despite the sweat pouring like a pressure washer and the sun cooking an egg in two seconds flat!

Speaking of cooking an egg… isn’t it time to shove some food down our throats? Awad’s got it all planned! He finds us a shady spot, lays out a tablecloth, and pulls out the lunch baskets. The only problem? He invited *every fly in Wadi Rum* to the table! And not just any flies—*organized* flies! While three-quarters are chowing down on your meal, the others are distracting you by flying up your nose or into your ears. You don’t need to experience it yourself to know it’s *super* annoying, to put it politely! Anyway, now that our bellies are full, where to next? Apparently, nowhere—Awad’s setting up his mattress and taking a nap. Wake-up call: Three o’clock! How can he even close his eyes with a view like this around us? It’s a *guaranteed* eye-opener! As for me, no way I’m napping and risking some weird dream… My dream’s right here, in front of me, and I plan to enjoy every second. Camera in hand, I head straight for a rock formation, hoping to soak up panoramas until I’m sick of them. Memories filling my head, pixels filling my memory card… Detox’s gonna be rough when we get back to France!





Before I start thinking about going home, I’d love to keep wandering this patch of dried-up earth, because right now, I’m like a dog chasing its tail—I’m going in circles! *‘Awad, it’s time! Awad! Awaaad?’* It took a quarter-hour of door-slamming and fake coughing to finally drag him out of his beauty sleep…

On the agenda: red dune, Khazali Canyon, Barragh Canyon, Nabatean inscriptions at Al Faishiyya… Sounds exciting, right? Well, in the end… *nothing*! And when I say nothing, I mean *zilch*! Nada! Awad clearly had other plans under his turban and couldn’t care less about what I’d arranged with the agency. What a mess! Don’t get this confused with *‘party in my pants’*—totally different! And as if by coincidence, we followed the same route as two other guides he’s thick as thieves with… and socks. That’s too much—Awad gets a yellow card! Next time, it’s red, and he’s out! Alright, I’ll stop complaining, even though I’m French and *totally* have the right. But all this to say my opinion of Jordantracks—or rather, our guide—is mixed. Don’t worry, though, we didn’t just stand there like scarecrows! First stop in the middle of nowhere… Awad joins his buddies for a game of soccer. And us? Well, if we’re doing nothing, might as well show them how a Frenchman can kick a ball! Jordan, one—France, one…



The rest of the afternoon? Canyons that were *meh*, tea breaks, a tiny arch (way less impressive than this morning’s), more tea, and a sunset that won’t go down as the best I’ve ever captured. Long story short, I won’t bore you with the details of our afternoon adventures. Lack of inspiration? Temporary fatigue? Maybe it’s just because we weren’t blown away by what Awad showed us. By the way, if you think I’m getting jaded and not gushing over stunning sites anymore, feel free to give me a good smack to bring me back to reality…













More seriously, tomorrow we’re switching to solo mode. No more relying on Jamal, Youssouf, or Hamed (aka Pierre, Paul, Jacques). Tomorrow, *I’m* in charge of the program! So long, goofing off, tea time, and little naps! But hey! Don’t go anywhere, Wadi Rum—I’m not done with you yet!



For now, we’re at the Jordantracks Bedouin camp, where we’ll spend the night in Bedouin tents lined up at the foot of a cliff. Around us, a few camels are twiddling their thumbs… Speaking of which, in Wadi Rum, camels are mostly there to give tourists rides. For heavy lifting, the Bedouins use another beast they call a *Patrol*. Don’t bother looking it up in animal encyclopedias—it’s a 4x4! Anyway, back to the camp: everything’s set up to make us spoiled Westerners feel a little at home, except for the camels—you don’t see those roaming the streets of the Ardennes! They’ve even managed to rig up showers and toilets in the middle of the desert! For the record (because I *love* anecdotes), special mention goes to Kazim, the mastermind behind the toilet facilities. Since the showers and toilets are backed against the mountain, he simply cut large openings in the doors of each stall to let in light. You had to think of it! And it’s a great way to bond with other campers. You don’t look at Robert the same way after seeing his face mid-effort… or Monique after watching her struggle to do her business without touching the toilet. No, seriously, at first I thought it was a joke or a hidden camera. I kept waiting for Marcel Béliveau to pop out of a dark corner dressed as a Jordanian, yelling *‘Surprise surprise!!’*… But nope, nothing. As for me, I thanked the gods of constipation and only attempted the experience the next morning, when everyone was still asleep. You can never be too careful during those *deep-thought* moments… And even then, still no sign of Béliveau’s mustache! To be continued…





I don’t know about you, but all this has made me hungry! Four plates of *maglouba* later, my stomach’s waving the white flag. As for the vibe, it’s a bit *touristy*. Awad plays the oud while the other guides start dancing. Me? I’m not exactly in the mood for a wild night. Just food, a quick smoke, and off to bed—while telling you that one day, I heard on the radio that the odds of visiting Jordan are one in ten million. Just imagine some guy somewhere busting his butt for months with all sorts of equipment to come to that conclusion… Well, okay! Let’s say that despite those odds, it happens to you. And while you’re wandering around, you might just stumble upon Wadi Rum! Sure, after reading my travel journal, you’ll probably be dying to come to this desert. But then you’ve still got to pick a camp! And let’s be honest, there are *plenty* around here. But fine, let’s say you choose the same one as me. The ultimate twist? You’d have to be there on a day when you *really* need to go! And if by some miracle all that happens, think of me when you’re sitting on the throne, eyes glued to the little window cut into the door, waiting for Marcel Béliveau to finally show his face… Anyway, goodnight, folks, and hello, sandman! By the way, will we count you in tomorrow? Either way, tomorrow’s another adventure…

Hi Frank,

I’ll be following this travel journal with pleasure. Jordan is on our list of plans—just a matter of when we can make it there.

Carmen

Hi Frank,

I’ll be following this travel journal with pleasure. Jordan is part of our plans—we just need to figure out when we can go.

Carmen

Hello Carmen, and welcome to this travel journal! Jordan is a stunning country that’s well worth exploring... You won’t regret it when the time comes! Happy reading! Franck

You can go there with your eyes closed!

It’d be a bit of a shame, though—there are still some cool things to see according to your travel journal. Okay, I’ll butt out... 😏

The colors in Wadi Rum are incredible! What amazing light!

By the way, if you get the impression I’m becoming jaded by what I see and no longer marvel at magnificent sites, you have my permission to give me a good slap to bring me back to reality...

If I may, I’ll do just that—wow, it’s stunning!!! 😮

I had a good laugh reading your trip report today! 😏

What’s the cost of this little high-end 4x4 tour with a guide who does whatever he wants? [;]

We're at the Jordantracks Bedouin camp where we're spending the night in Bedouin tents arranged in a row at the foot of a cliff.

JordanTracks... Back in the day, it was *the* reference on VF. I went through them too.

I kept expecting Marcel Béliveau dressed as a Jordanian to pop out from a dark corner yelling "Surprise surprise!!"...

Good thing you didn’t see him pop out—he’d already passed away by the time you were in Jordan!



Yep, that’s the same camp. I remember stepping out around 5 a.m. in the near-dark to wait for sunrise and suddenly feeling 20 kg land on my back without knowing where it came from. It was the camp dog!

As for the vibe, it feels a bit "touristy." Awad plays the oud while the other guides start dancing.

Dinner under the big tent? The oud, the dancers—same thing. Maybe Awad was there...

Hey Franck, Even though I’ve been following your adventures from the start, I didn’t chime in earlier because I was left speechless and drooling over your photos—when I wasn’t laughing. You really sell Jordan well with its sites and the friendly Jordanians! By the way, for those who’ve been recently, is it still the case (the warm welcome from Jordanians), or has the vibe changed with mass tourism? I think Isa mentioned this too, right?

I also read that Wadi Rum is over-exploited and there’s hardly a spot without a camp now, which takes away a bit of the magic from this stunning desert (YES, YES, Régis)...

@Masterpro: You recommend 3 days in Petra. Is that to make the days less packed, or are there other things to see beyond what Franck and his crew did?

PS: Anyway, Laeti and I are dreaming over these photos. Everything outside the Schengen Zone is making us dream right now... since that’s where we’ll be spending our summer vacation, unless the boss decides to keep us in France by then. I feel like we’ll end up doing house swaps. Here’s my pitch: "Just steps from the Verdon Gorge (closed, too confined), the Mediterranean Sea (beaches inaccessible), and barely half an hour from La Croisette (closed), or an hour from the Promenade des Anglais (also closed), swap our charming house with terraces and a pool (where you’ll be confined for one or two weeks). Don’t forget to water the plants." Pretty catchy, huh ? And we’d be really interested in two weeks in a house in Brittany, with a one-week stop in the Massif Central. Anything like that available? Sorry, but the Ardennes just aren’t my thing

@Masterpo: you recommend 3 days in Petra.

The site is exceptional. If you leave after two days, you’ll definitely feel frustrated. Of course, if you can only spend 10 days on your trip to Jordan, you’ll have to prioritize, and 2 days will probably be enough. But if you have more time, yes, 3 days—or even the free 4th day, which I didn’t use only because I’d booked Wadi Rum...

Is it to make the days less packed?

No. Franck’s pace is good. But it’s true you can spend hours in front of the Monastery sipping lemonade (or something else). In front of the Treasury, it’s also stunning, but much less pleasant. More crowds and not much space.

Or are there other things to see beyond what Franck did?

In Petra, you’ve basically got the Khazneh (the Treasury) and the Deir (the Monastery), neither of which you can actually go inside (*) or (**). Beyond that, there are caves, viewpoints, tombs, hikes... The little detour from the High Place of Sacrifice to see the Treasury from above took me 1.5 hours round-trip. Three days isn’t too much to take in the full scale of the site.

And his family?

You reassure me—I thought it was a harem...

(*) It’s better to forget about that, really. (**) Well, that depends...

Thanks for the details! :)

By the way, if you get the impression I’m becoming jaded by what I see and no longer marvel at magnificent sites, you have my permission to give me a good slap to bring me back to reality...

If I may, I’ll take you up on that—wow, it’s gorgeous!!! 😮

I had a good laugh reading your trip report today! 😏

What’s the cost of this little high-end 4x4 tour with a guide who does whatever he wants? [;]

Hello Pascal, It was 65 dinars per person for the day and night... After that, it’s true it was a great day, but the next one was even better, solo... That’s why I was a bit "harsh" on the guide...

Hey Franck, Even though I’ve been following your adventures from the start, I haven’t chimed in before because I was either gaping at your photos or laughing my head off. You really sell Jordan well—those amazing sites and the friendly Jordanians! By the way, for those who’ve been recently, is it still like that (the warm welcome from Jordanians), or has the vibe changed with mass tourism? I think Isa mentioned this too, right?

I also read that Wadi Rum is overdeveloped, with hardly any spot left without camps, which kinda takes away from the magic of that stunning desert (YES, YES, Régis)...

@Masterpro: You recommend 3 days in Petra. Is that to make the days less packed, or are there still other things to see beyond what Franck and his crew did?

PS: Anyway, Laeti and I are dreaming over these photos. Everything outside the Schengen Zone is calling to us right now... especially since we’ll be spending our summer vacation there—unless the boss decides to keep us stuck in France. I can feel we’re gonna end up doing house swaps. Here’s my pitch: "Just a stone’s throw from the Gorges du Verdon (closed, too crowded), the Mediterranean Sea (beaches off-limits), and barely half an hour from La Croisette (shut down), or an hour from the Promenade des Anglais (also closed), swap our charming house with terraces and a pool (where you’ll be confined for one or two weeks). Don’t forget to water the plants." Pretty catchy, huh 🤪? We’d be super interested in two weeks in a house in Brittany, with a one-week stop in the Massif Central. Anything like that available? Sorry, but the Ardennes just don’t do it for me 😏

Hey Guillaume! Glad you like it... By the end of the travel journal, Jordan’s gonna climb a few spots on your priority list...

As for the Ardennes, you’re missing out! And Woinic—doesn’t that interest you at all? 😏

I don’t know how long you stayed with JordanTracks, but I think one day is enough to reach the spots that are only accessible by 4x4. For the rest, you can do it on foot... And you’ll see, the next day will be amazing—definitely my favorite of the whole trip...

It was 65 dinars per person for the day and night...

That’s fair if it really includes the night, meals, and those designer toilets...😉

That’s why I was a bit "harsh" with the guide...

Come on, admit it—it was mostly for the spanking he gave you on the arch...😛

It was 65 dinars per person for the day and night...

That’s reasonable if it really includes the night, meals, and those designer toilets...😉

That’s why I was a bit "harsh" with the guide...

Come on, admit it—it was mostly for the spanking he gave you on the arch...😛

Yeah, the prices were fair, but that was 10 years ago... As for the guide, yeah, he was a bit too full of himself for my taste... 😏

Ah, a real connoisseur of the Ardennes!!! Have you been there before?

To be honest, no, never 😊. I never take the risk of venturing beyond the ring road. 😏 But I figured there must be something great to see to attract Guillaume, and in that case, Google is my friend. 😉

You seem to know your stuff, even though you're keeping quiet about where you live 😉

To live happily, live hidden... or confined... I’m not sure what the saying really means anymore.😉

Couldn’t you try swimming in a loop at the Meuse Horseshoe Bend and bring us back a photo 😛?

I’d have loved to post a photo, but I don’t want to eat into Franck’s quota. Just type the village name into your favorite search engine, and you’ll find some pictures.

It’d be great if Franck took over again because we’ll struggle to fill his travel journal 😮

You’re right, but we’ll give it a shot anyway. 😇 Among the beautiful images Windows usually shows me when I start my computer, the latest one—funny enough—immediately reminded me of the wonders Franck just shared with us. It’s Göreme in Turkey and its cave dwellings. It looks amazing! 😮 If I had any doubts about visiting the fairy chimneys in Cappadocia, they’re gone now... It seems Franck went to Turkey. And with any luck, he even visited that region. So, once he’s back to his senses after yesterday’s little celebration 😏, maybe he can tell us a bit about it—no need to compare it to Jordan, though... 😇

Looks like he’s resurfacing... 😎

It’d be great if Franck could take over because we’ll struggle to fill his travel journal 😮

You’re right, but we’ll give it a shot anyway. 😇 Among the beautiful images Windows usually shows when I start my computer, the latest one—funny enough—immediately reminded me of the wonders Franck just shared. It’s Göreme in Turkey and its cave dwellings. It looks amazing! 😮 If I had any doubts about visiting the fairy chimneys in Cappadocia, they’re gone now... It seems Franck went to Turkey. And with any luck, he even visited that region. So, once he’s got his head back on straight after yesterday’s little celebration 😏, maybe he can tell us a bit about it—no need to compare it to Jordan, of course... 😇

Looks like he’s resurfacing... 😎

If it helps you wait and makes up for my little betrayal yesterday, I can definitely say a few words. I’ve been to Cappadocia twice (in 2003 and 2018). It’s a region I love! It’s stunning, especially if you enjoy walking—you can easily find yourself alone among the fairy chimneys. Here are a few photos while you wait for my full post later...

Just a reminder: these photos weren’t taken in Jordan!

Unless you lost a bet, if you’ve been there twice, it must be worth the detour—and your photos prove it! Did you visit Göreme by any chance? (Last question, then I’ll let you get back to Jordan )

Unless you lost a bet, if you’ve been there twice, it must be worth the trip—and your photos prove it! Did you visit Göreme? (Last question, then I’ll let you get back to Jordan 😊)

Yes, we stayed there. Photo #4 is a view of Göreme...

Among the beautiful images Windows usually shows me when I start up my computer, the latest one—funny enough—immediately reminded me of the wonders Franck just shared with us. It’s Göreme in Turkey and its cave dwellings. It looks amazing! 😮 If I had any doubts about visiting the fairy chimneys in Cappadocia, they’re gone now... It seems Franck went to Turkey. With any luck, he even visited that region. So, once he’s got his head back on straight after yesterday’s little celebration 😏, maybe he can tell us a few words about it—no need to compare it to Jordan, though... 😇

Looks like he’s resurfacing... 😎

Yes, Turkey is really tempting me too. I was planning to go to Istanbul for a long weekend this autumn... In the meantime, let’s keep dreaming while following Franck and his family, his harem, his brother...

October 28 - Fancy a bit more desert?

When you're in the desert for too long... You wonder who it's for... All the slightly rigged rules... Of the game they want you to play... Blindfolded...

Well, to be honest, I don’t really get what the singer was trying to say there. Oh well, anyway, we haven’t been in the desert for too long! I’d even say we’re craving more! We’re thirsty—thirsty for adventure! We’re in the starting blocks! We can’t sit still, a bit like Gilbert Montagné swaying on his keyboard! Anyway, we’re eager to get going, even if the girls don’t quite know what I’ve got in store for them. So, at eight o’clock, everyone on deck! Don’t try to picture the scene—it’s just an expression, there’s no bridge in the desert. The JordanTracks 4x4 drops us back at the village of Rum, and that’s the end of our collaboration. Today, it’s just the four of us, face-to-face with the desert! But first, everyone report in! Gear inspection! Sleeping bags, warm clothes, flashlight, map, food we bought at the local Carrefour Market—all the gear of a model little adventurer! All we’re missing now is water, which might come in handy in the desert. Where we’re going, since decent watering holes can be counted on one hand (and that’s if you’ve got all your fingers), we’re going with four liters per person. And if you can do math, well, four liters of water means four extra kilos to lug around. Yeah, no camel to help us out! In Wadi Rum, the camel—that’s me! In the end, we’re loaded up like Nepalese mules! From behind, we look like four walking backpacks!

Alright, we head full east toward our first goal of the day: Rakhabat Canyon. Several internet users straight-up told me not to tackle it without a guide, or we’d risk getting lost. We’re crazy—no fear! When we get to the foot of the mountain we have to cross, guess who we run into? Awad! And when we tell him we’re going to take on Rakhabat all by ourselves, he just says two words that speak volumes: “Good luck.” That’s all it takes to fire me up! Plus, we’re in Arab land, so *inshallah*!



So we dive right into the beast’s mouth, taking a zigzagging path with slopes no cyclist should attempt. To reassure the ladies, I make a break for it and take the lead like a hare in a race. All they have to do is draft behind me! No, no, don’t worry—nothing X-rated in what I just said! It’s cycling lingo! More Gérard Holtz than Rocco Siffredi, if you catch my drift! Anyway, moving on. The climb is tough until the second wind kicks in—thanks for that. Despite a few tricky sections, we make progress and reach a sort of plateau. So far, so good. We enter a wide canyon, and now it’s more of a scavenger hunt than anything else! Map in one hand, my keen sense of direction in the other, we go right. Oh no, that’s a dead end! Left, then? Nope, apparently, the bag has more than one bottom! Okay, I’m not sure where to go now! Luckily, there’s always something to feast your eyes on around here. Don’t push it! We’re not going to get lost in an ugly place, right? Ouch. *Lost.* There, I said it. We’re as lost as four lice on Desireless’s head...







No big deal—if we want to find our way before the sun turns our skin into a well-done blister, we’d better get moving! I climb up alone to look for any markers or semblance of a trail. And just as the girls start imagining themselves being devoured by vultures, I return like a messiah. The savior, not the soccer player, okay! But instead of a trail, I offer them some climbing with a narrow, overhanging passage leading to a drop. The kind of place where you don’t want to take a tumble unless you want to make the local news! But once they’ve ditched their bags, the girls handle it like pros. We’re back on track! Well, sort of. I know where to head, but the horizon hasn’t suddenly cleared to reveal a red carpet for VIPs. Too easy! After every challenge we overcome, a new one pops up. We’re moving as fast as a galloping snail! But we’re still making progress, in a setting so vast and spectacular that even a claustrophobic would love the scenery!



After two hours, we start to make out what might vaguely resemble an exit. You’re probably thinking we’re out of the woods, that there’s no need to be cautious. See that finger? Yeah? Well, you can stick it in your eye until you tickle your cerebellum! We’re back in a dead end. Rakhabat Canyon—your merciless world! Still, we’ve got two options: Either I go left and reach the exit quickly—but die—or I go right and sign a statement saying the suicide was premeditated. To sum up, Desireless’s scalp is clearly a no-go! This is a disaster. And not just any disaster—a reinforced concrete slab just fell on our heads! I run, I search, I assess. I turn, I turn again, I turn some more! Even though I’ve got energy to spare, don’t push Grandma in the nettles—I’m starting to resign myself. We’re doomed to rot here, for better or worse...

What unbearable suspense! It’s like *24*! Will they make it out? Will they stay there? Place your bets... No more bets! Come on, use your two brain cells. There’s as much intrigue here as in *The Young and the Restless*! If you’re reading this travel journal, it means we obviously made it out of the canyon! Come closer, let me tell you... So, after a rare moment of clarity, I try an offensive on the right flank of the canyon. And finally, after eating some dust and scraping my knees, that’s that—the deal’s in the bag, nothing more to see! Well, it was much less worse than we thought! Especially for the girls, who got to enjoy my body again. There you go—once again, you’re off the mark! Enjoying my body means I served as a ladder for them to climb down easily. What were you imagining?



Alright, we can see the exit, we can feel it, we can almost touch it... It must be time to lay down our arms and sign a truce with this little countryside stroll. But don’t count on it—those last hundred meters are trickier than they look! For crying out loud, when are we going to see the end of this canyon? Now we’ve got to cross a rockslide that, with our fatigue, seems as tall as the World Trade Center. After 2001, don’t push it. We climb, we descend, we squeeze through, we crawl, and... we feast our eyes on the vast desert finally stretching out before us. Hallelujah!!! We came, we saw, we conquered! It took longer than planned, but we still won! Four hours instead of the two we’d initially planned—it throws a wrench in the day’s schedule. But hey, if I’d known, I’d have come anyway! And the girls are thrilled, Félicie too! Now, if our adventure and my photos make you drool with desire, don’t hesitate—you too can attempt this canyon solo! If you need info, I’ll give you some! But if you’re being a scaredy-cat with your fear-o-meter at zero, contact Passe-Partout—he’ll be happy to take you there...

Thirteen hours—our lips are parched! Our fly friends, with whom we bonded yesterday, are already at the meet-up spot. All we’ve got to do is dig in! Hard-boiled eggs, tuna, tomatoes, bread, and cows laughing at our faces are on the menu. It feels good going down. We also take the chance to rehydrate and dry off. Because right now, it might be the dry season, but I can tell you—those last four hours were the rainy season under our shirts! Add a thick layer of red dust, and you’ve got a good scolding from Mother Denis! I’m far from being Mr. Clean, just like my T-shirt, which said goodbye to Cajoline the teddy bear a long time ago!





Hey girls, how about sweating a little more? A Mars bar and we’re off again! We pick up our pilgrim’s staff and head toward the top of the great red sand dune! The climb—I can honestly tell you it’s easier to talk about than to do! But once we reach the top, with three kilos of sand in each shoe, it’s time for contemplation. I’ll give you a few minutes to feast on the photos, which, I warn you, will mess with your head so much you’ll want to swap your next vacation in Le Touquet for a stay in Wadi Rum!









Anyway, wherever you are in this desert, there’s always a photo to take! And they’re impossible to miss with such beautiful light and such colorful sand and mountains. Had enough? Got your fill of the photos? Alright, suck in that drool dripping from your mouth—we’re back on the road! Every meter we cover offers a new perspective that makes you want to pull out the camera and burst into song: “A kilometer on foot wears out, wears out, a kilometer on foot wears out your shoes. Two kilometers on foot wears out, wears out...” We walk a little, a lot, passionately, madly. We’re roughing it, but honestly, we don’t feel the fatigue—we’re flying! Unstoppable, that’s what we are! Unstoppable! Though I won’t hide that we’re on a drip of cereal bars to feed our bodies and plantar blisters to feed our soles. But it works—literally and figuratively! We’re even making up for lost time this morning: the Nabataean inscriptions at Al Faishiyya that look like my daughter’s drawings, Lawrence of Arabia’s “house” that’s a house in name only. But all these so-called points of interest are just an excuse! An excuse to walk with our noses in the air in this desert, alone, without noise, without a hint of wind, without a guide, without a crowd—well, I’m not talking about a herd of camels, you get that...















We keep following our little path until the sun starts showing signs of weakness. And if the sun sets, I might just follow suit with all my heart! So we need to find a little spot to spend the night under the stars, like hobos, sheltered from the wind and away from 4x4 tracks. Yeah! I’d hate to get run over in my sleep—I’d have a hard time falling back asleep. Alright, we finally settle in! Our legs are stiff, our backs hurt, our butts hurt... but we’re grinning! The pleasure of a job well done! Hey, hey, hey—let’s be clear! There’s no connection between the sore butt and the banana! Got it?...

We’ve been sitting for about twenty-eight and a half seconds when we become the target of a 4x4 heading straight for us! No doubt about it—it’s coming for us! Let me think... Who could it be? We didn’t call a taxi. Did someone order a pizza? What if it’s the desert police? Maybe wild camping is forbidden? Go straight to jail, do not pass Go. Unless it’s another prank by good old Marcel Béliveau! Nope, none of that. Actually, this is the perfect moment for my illustrated anecdote with a hardcover and binding. Here it is live: « Hello, what are you doing here? – Well... we’re setting up to spend the night under the stars. – Pack up your bags and get in, I’ll take you to my place for tea! » That’s the kind of invitation I love! Of course, you don’t refuse! Benco! All aboard, Simone!

While we were hiding in the middle of nowhere, the guy comes to find us to invite us for tea! He was chilling at home watching *Questions pour un champion* and thought, “Hey, I’ll do my good deed for the day. I’ll take a drive in the desert with my 4x4 to pick up some hobos and invite them for tea!” And it was us! *Plus belle la vie*! Don’t look at me like that—I’m not a fan of that trash...

When we arrive at his camp, Mohammed sets us up around the fire and prepares a teapot of good Bedouin “whisky,” as they say here, while striking up a conversation. He lives in the desert with his family and rents out a few tents to tourists who’ve roamed Wadi Rum with his cousin as a guide. Little by little, we’re joined by other European tourists who’ve finished their day’s excursion, as well as his cousin. The vibe is cool and family-like. Nothing like last night’s camp. The problem is, night has definitely fallen on this day, and it’ll be tough to find our wild camping spot. We take advantage and ask our host if he can take us back to our vacation spot. But Mohammed doesn’t see it that way! We’re his guests! We’ll eat with his family and sleep in his tent! No point negotiating! What hospitality! Never seen anything like it in my backpacking career! And this evening? An overdose of happiness! A meal that’ll make your belt burst, endless tea, conversations, and songs around the fire: “We come from... Wadi Rum... Made in, made in Wadi Rum.” It’s the kind of thing you didn’t plan for in the morning but that fills you with happiness when you close your eyes at night! Hats off, Mr. Mohammed. How about a little souvenir photo? “Okay for the photo, but not on Facebook!”



Well, the three scaredy-cats I’m with took the invitation literally and headed straight to bed in the tent. As for me, no one’s taking my night under the stars away from me! A night in the desert is like sleeping in the largest room of the most star-studded hotel in the world! And so, at eleven o’clock, I fall asleep by the fire, counting shooting stars, my head full of images of Wadi Rum... Could be worse! Can’t wait for tomorrow to fill our eyes with more! Anyway, tomorrow’s another adventure...

I see that Sandrine followed you blindly 10 years ago 😄 but that’s not really the case anymore 😮 Back then, she must’ve been totally blinded to follow you wherever you took them... I can’t even imagine 🤪 You were lucky with the people you met in Jordan—really beautiful moments 😎

True, the WR left to its own devices does seem nice. A 4x4 is good for a day, two would be overindulgent.

My map in hand

Did you buy your map at the Visitors Centre? And how many kilometers is your Rakhabat Canyon from the Village?

we opt for the four-liter-per-person plan.

Was that the right amount in the end?

Yeah, I know, it’s starting to feel like an interrogation, but oh well 😇

The Rakhabat Canyon is definitely worth the effort, especially solo! But what a reward—gorgeous landscapes that make you want to... dream (since we’re not likely to travel again anytime soon 😕).

True, the WR on your own does sound nice. A 4x4 is good for a day, two would be overkill.

My map in one hand

Did you buy your map at the Visitors Centre? And how far is your Rakhabat Canyon from the Village?

we opted for the four-litre-per-person plan.

Was that the right amount in the end?

Yeah, I know, it’s starting to feel like an interrogation, but hey

Yeah, I think one day in a 4x4 is enough to reach the spots that aren’t easily accessible on foot. For the rest, walking is the best way. As for the map, it was one I’d scribbled on, with notes from back when I’d exchanged tips on VF. I still have it if it’s of interest... Yes, 4 litres was perfect—we even had some left since we were kindly invited over in the evening... No worries, happy to answer any questions!