6 weeks in Cambodia in autumn 2023
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
GA
We got back enchanted from a 6-week trip to Cambodia! Our itinerary: Kampot - Kampong Chhnang - Battambang - Siem Reap - Kampong Cham - Sen Monorom (Mondulkiri) - Banlung (Ratanakiri) - Kratie - Kampong Thom - Phnom Penh. We traveled by bus, minivan, boat (between Battambang and Siem Reap), overnight bus, scooter, tuk-tuk, and rickshaw for shorter distances. We stayed in guesthouses, homestays, and even in the jungle during a trek. While the Angkor temples are fabulous, it’s the people you should visit Cambodia for—the "Land of Smiles" truly lives up to its nickname! Tourists gather in Angkor but are quite rare elsewhere, even though the country is easy to travel around. I won’t describe our trip in detail but instead highlight a few favorite moments. From Kampot, don’t hesitate to head out around 6 AM to see the fishermen return and their wives selling their catch (just 10 minutes away by the coast). Guaranteed picturesque! In Battambang, known for its food scene, we discovered a cooking class with Smokin’ Pot (authentic Khmer cooking class). They pick you up from your guesthouse to shop for ingredients (we made fish amok and beef lok lak) at their village market, then cook and eat together. A private class—just the two of us! They also send the recipes via WhatsApp as a PDF. +855 12 821 400 In Siem Reap, I can recommend a francophone tuk-tuk driver who was very attentive to our wishes. We visited tourist spots but also more remote villages and local grilled-pork restaurants with him. He’s a wealth of information about local life, and chatting with him was a real pleasure—we left with regret! You can reach him on WhatsApp: Vung Hem, +855 96 614 0146. We did a 2-day, 1-night trek in Mondulkiri. Don’t expect a super dense jungle—it looks more like a forest similar to ours. But Nara, our Bunong ethnic guide, made the experience adventurous and ultimately very immersive! WhatsApp +855 86 630 489 Bee Bee’s Chalets homestay: If you pass through Banlung in Ratanakiri, we *loved* this family and their budget-friendly bungalows. Playing Uno, enjoying Nita’s cooking (ask for her fish amok—amazing!), it was a true homestay experience! Contact Nita on WhatsApp: +855 88 818 5525. In Kratie, rent a scooter and follow the Mekong north for 40 km at your own pace. Being so close to the locals was a treat! Same goes for heading south if you have time. Kampong Thom: Head 25 km out to visit the pre-Angkorian temples of Sambor Prei Kuk. Around a hundred monuments spread across three sites… and hardly anyone there!

A few practical tips: Though prices are often listed in dollars, you can always pay in riels (1 USD = 4000 riels), which is what we preferred. PassApp: An app to book tuk-tuks or rickshaws (and most importantly, know the price upfront). Virak Buntham: A bus company connecting several cities, bookable online.

Feel free to ask me questions about places, accommodations, etc.—I’d be happy to answer!
DA Dancoine Regular ·
Hi Christine, It’s true that in Siem Reap, Vung, our tuk-tuk driver, is an absolute sweetheart. We’ve had the chance to visit the temples with him several years in a row. He’s always punctual, friendly... and very careful. Next February, he’ll pick us up at the airport, and we’ll revisit a few temples before heading out into the countryside—he knows some really nice spots.
La musique est le seul plaisir sensuel sans vice.

joël
BA Bananette Regular ·
Hello,

Even though your post is a bit old, could you share your impressions of Kampot/Kep?

I’m planning a trip to Cambodia and I’m debating whether to go that far south. We’ll only have 3 weeks, so I’m torn between a detour to Mondolkiri or one to the coast.

Thanks in advance for your tips!
GA Gaiatika ·
Hi Karine, First time discovering Cambodia in Kampot—we really loved the human-scale city and scooter rides through the surrounding countryside all the way to Kep. The fishermen’s return along the coast is definitely worth an early, *very* early wake-up! We’re not really "beach people," so no info on that. Our stop in Mondulkiri let us see another side of the country, more mountainous. But we were a little surprised by the jungle—it felt less "jungle-like" than in other destinations. For a 2-day trek, the guide was clearing the path ahead at times, but it seemed like it was to make the trek feel more adventurous. So if I had to choose, I’d have stuck with Kampot! Besides the classics, Kratié also really won us over.

I’ll copy/paste my original message about Vung here: In Siem Reap, I can recommend a francophone tuk-tuk driver who was really attentive to our wishes. We visited tourist spots with him, but also more remote villages and local restaurants for grilled pork. He’s a goldmine of information about their living conditions, and chatting with him was a real pleasure—we left with regret! You can reach him on WhatsApp: Vung Hem, +855 96 614 0146.

What’s your itinerary like?
BA Bananette Regular ·
Hi Christine,

Thanks for all this info. Our itinerary would be pretty classic: PP - Kratie - Mondulkiri - Kampong Khleang - Siem Reap - Battambang - PP, or the same but skipping Mondulkiri and adding Kampot.

However, we’ll only have a maximum of 3 weeks, so I’m not sure if all of that is doable—our route still needs some refining!

Thanks again and have a great day, Karine
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi,

PP - Kratie - Mondulkri - Kampong Khleang - Siem Reap - Battambang - PP or the same thing but removing Mondulkiri and adding Kampot.

However, we’ll only have a maximum of 3 weeks and I’m not sure if all of that is doable

Doable in 21 days on the ground if you don’t dawdle too much.
BA Bananette Regular ·
Thanks Thierry! 😉
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Could you share your impressions of Kampot/Kep?

You wouldn’t stay in both for the same reasons.

Kep: Not really a town, more of a scattered collection of homes and tourist accommodations. It’s a well-known seaside spot, popular with Cambodian tourists on weekends and foreign travelers. It’s also a meet-up spot for many expats (who generally don’t "lower themselves" to mix with tourists). The surrounding area—including pepper plantations—is great for exploring by tuk-tuk or motorbike.

Kampot: A real town with a charming, uncluttered center that has a delightful old-world feel and some colonial architecture. It’s safe to explore by bike, and there’s no beach (the town isn’t right on the sea). The vibe is different from Kep’s seaside tourism. Like Kep, the surrounding area—also with pepper plantations—is perfect for tuk-tuk or motorbike rides. Plus, there’s the rural peninsula* of Fish Island (Koh Trey), which is lovely for a half-day or full-day wander by bike or motorbike. Don’t hesitate to venture as far as possible!

I love Kampot and can’t stand Kep.

* Bridge here: 10°35'59.75"N 104°10'36.65"E

The local "culinary" specialty is Kampot pepper crab (or Kep pepper crab, depending on where you are). Did I just have bad luck? Either way, it didn’t blow me away—it’s just a boiled crab with a ton of peppercorns dumped on top. Something you could easily make at home.
BA Bananette Regular ·
Thanks, that confirms that Kampot is probably a good choice for us since we’re not big fans of beach resorts.

I read there’s an overnight bus between Siem Reap and Kampot—what’s it like? Are the buses modern or pretty old-school? Is the trip grueling, or does it let you see some nice scenery (depending on the schedule)? I remember some endless trips in Asia and others that were really enjoyable.

We’d like to take the boat between Siem Reap and Battambang, but I’m guessing that’ll complicate things if we want to go to Kampot afterward?

Thanks again for all these great tips.
SO Songsam Veteran ·
I read there’s an overnight bus between Siem Reap and Kampot—what’s the deal?

Yes, several—buses or minibuses—but many aren’t direct. Quality ranges from decent to VIP. Direct or not, they all go through or near Phnom Penh.

We’re thinking of taking the boat between Siem Reap and Battambang

It’s a must-do, but only if you’re not there in the wrong season when there’s not enough water.

But I guess that’ll complicate things if we want to go to Kampot afterward?

No direct buses (though check locally—things may have changed), but you’ll find combo tickets for two-bus routes with an immediate transfer in Phnom Penh or nearby. Nothing complicated about it. Buses range from decent to comfortable. No better options for Kep—it’s the same setup, just with a different final destination.
BA Bananette Regular ·
Thanks so much! I’ve taken note of all this info.

Just need to book our flight tickets now, probably for January 2027.

Have a great evening! 😉

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