18 days in Cape Verde in January 2025
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
JA
Hello, We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it. Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp. We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day). Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão. From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes. We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking. The hikes were stunning: - The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE) - The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return) - The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return) - The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE) - The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip. Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow. We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*. Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE. Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €. We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located. One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach. We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia. On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen. We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals. Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us. Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving. We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants. We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse. Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats! We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find). We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*. For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*. On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access. Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe. If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond. Jacquesler.
LI LillieoneFE Veteran ·
NO Nonorigole Regular ·
Hi there,

I’m heading to Cape Verde for three weeks this January with a friend. We’re staying in Ponta do Sol. I read that it’s the nicest place to stay. And we’re planning to take an aluguer to Ribeira Grande. Did all the hikes you did start from Ribeira Grande? Are they well-marked? And not too hard on the knees?

Were you able to exchange euros for escudos easily?

Thanks in advance! Nolwenn
JA Jacquesler ·
Hi Nolwen, As soon as I arrived in Mindelo, I headed to the bank to exchange euros for escudos—no problem at a rate of 1 € for 110 CVE, though there was a short wait, but hey, we're in Cape Verde. Then I bought a local SIM card for 1100 CVE (10 €)—super handy for calling a taxi and so much more. I didn’t find anything extraordinary in Ponta do Sol compared to Ribeira Grande, except that prices are much higher there. Either way, if you want to hike, you’ll first need a *collectivo* to get to Ribeira Grande, then another one or a taxi to reach the main hiking spots like Cova, Corda, Coculi, etc. In Ribeira Grande, there’s a great selection of restaurants, shops, etc., and even though it’s the capital, the town is small. We really appreciated staying in Ribeira rather than Ponta do Sol, but it’s up to you. Yes, the hikes are well-marked. If you have Maps.me and downloaded Cape Verde before your trip, you’ll have all the routes mapped out to the meter. I’m almost 79 and didn’t have any knee pain—just a few minor aches in the morning that disappeared after a few steps. Cheers, Jacquesler
NO Nonorigole Regular ·
Thanks for your feedback. I have maps.me on my phone since I won’t have internet. Do I need to download the Cape Verde map before I leave, or can I install it once I have Wi-Fi on site?

Thanks in advance, Nolwenn
JA Jacquesler ·
Hi, Of course, you should download the map of Cape Verde before you leave or once you're there when you're connected to Wi-Fi. This lets you plan your trip, your spots, your restaurants, the *aluguers*, etc. See the attached screenshot. Jacquesler
NO Nonorigole Regular ·
Hi,

I don’t see the attached screenshot.

Thanks in advance! Nolwenn
JA Jacquesler ·
Hi, Sorry, but when I sent it, there were indeed 2 photo files of the joints. The best thing would be to send me your email address in private, and I’ll send you a few more. Best regards, Jacquesler
NO Nonorigole Regular ·
Hi,

Here’s my email address: nolwennisma@yahoo.fr

Thanks in advance
QU Quensol ·
Hello, I’m leaving Thursday for São Vicente and Santo Antão. Do you have the name of your driver, how many hours you hired them for, and whether they speak French? We’re a group of five friends, all over 72, and two of us aren’t really into hiking—just short walks. I really admire you for doing all those hikes! Thanks in advance for your replies. Françoise
JA Jacquesler ·
Hi Françoise, You’re going to have a wonderful trip! When you mention a "driver," you’re probably referring to the one we hired for the day (9 AM to 4 PM - 6000 CVE - since the island is small and there isn’t necessarily a lot to discover, except stopping in a few villages to meet the locals and having lunch in Calhau) to explore the island of São Vicente. We just flagged one down on the street, negotiated a bit, and he spoke French well. Don’t worry, you’ll find plenty of them near the esplanade by the port. Now that there are 5 of you plus the driver, you’ll likely need a van, which will be a bit more expensive. I assume you’ll then head to Santo Antão (it’s stunning) – take the Armas ferry company. Once there, you can call Nonyn (+238 9940766 – everyone uses WhatsApp there) who speaks French well. He’ll pick you up wherever you’re staying (Ribeira Grande is much more central, and all the *collectivos*, taxis, etc., leave from there). A little tip: when you arrive in Mindelo, exchange your money at a BCA bank on your way down to the port, and most importantly, buy a local SIM card (phone + internet for 1100 CVE) from CV Telecom. That way, you can communicate and call a driver when you need one. Where will you be staying in Santo Antão? The hikes are breathtakingly beautiful, and often with only negative elevation changes. If I had your email address, I could have sent you (via "GrosFichiers") a short 35-minute video to download that would have reassured you. Best regards,

photo of the Bank
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hello,

I’m heading to Cape Verde for three weeks this summer with a friend. We’re staying in Ponta do Sol. I’d read that it’s the nicest place to stay. And we’re planning to take an aluguer to Ribeira Grande. Did all the hikes you’ve done start from Ribeira Grande? Are they well-marked? And not too tough on the knees?

Were you able to exchange euros for escudos easily?

Thanks in advance, Nolwenn

Hi, Unlike others, I find Ponta do Sol more pleasant than Ribeira Grande (and I’m not just saying that because I live here!! hahaha!!). But of course, to each their own. I think the seafront is cuter (plus, there isn’t really a proper seafront in RG), and you can swim there when the sea is calm (not the case in RG). So for swimming, it depends on when you’re going. Sure, there are more shops and restaurants in RG, but for a few days, you’ll find what you need in Ponta do Sol too. Personally, I’m not a big fan of shops ;O), and as Jacquesler said, it’s only 10 minutes more by collective, so I’m sure you’ll like Ponta do Sol too. From there, you can easily explore the western part of the island. The hikes are getting better marked. That doesn’t stop some people from getting lost, though. 😉 But there are some really easy ones. Knees? Some hikes are pretty steep. Jacquesler says "hikes are mostly downhill." Of course, it always depends on the direction you take!! I prefer going up rather than down because I’m worried about my knees on the descent. For exchanging money, I’d recommend a bank or exchange bureau. Otherwise, if you pay directly in euros, you’ll lose out on the exchange rate. Welcome to Cape Verde! Marie
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hello, just a small correction: Ribeira Grande isn't the capital. The capital of Cape Verde is Praia on Santiago. And the largest city on Santo Antão is Porto Novo. As for the region (Conselho) of Ribeira Grande, the administration is split between Povoação (the town of Ribeira Grande) and Ponta do Sol. But you're right, it's the commercial and transport hub of the area. Anyway, thanks for your travel journal and all the info you shared. Best regards, Marie
LA Laetiz Regular ·
Hi Jacquesler, Thanks for this awesome travel journal. Are there any hikes with a low negative elevation drop (max -500m) on the island of Santo Antão? Thanks, Laëtitia
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hi there, It's true that there’s still quite a bit of elevation change here. But you can also do the hikes mostly downhill. I prefer going uphill to save my knees, but descending is often easier for those who aren’t used to it. Otherwise, yes, there are a few hikes/walks with minimal elevation change: Ponta do Sol-Fontainhas; Coculi-Figueiral-Joao Afonso; Ribeira da Torre; a tour around Val de Paul....
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hi there, Love your trip report with all those handy details—just what I’m looking for! We’re planning to go next January/February. I’m checking flights from Lyon and can’t decide between Transavia and TAP. The connections aren’t super convenient, so I think we’ll break it up with an overnight in Lisbon on the way there (and back), then head to Mindelo before taking a ferry to Santo Antão, where we plan to stay the longest. We’re mainly going for hiking. Are you thinking Santiago is worth it for that? I’ll come back to ask for more info if you’re up for it!
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Hello Jean-Michel! I’ll cut to the chase since it was my destination this summer too (another delayed travel journal…), but I can share my thoughts.

We also left from Lyon, with TAP, a quick layover in Barcelona, and landed in Praia.

Is Santiago worth a visit? Yes, a thousand times yes. Three main points of interest on the island: - Praia, the capital, bustling and surprising, the heart of Cape Verde’s engine. - Assomada and the surrounding area, a hiking paradise (though often cloudy). - Tarrafal, in the north, the best spot for beach time while staying close to the locals.

After that, it all depends on how much time you’ll spend in Cape Verde, because logistics there can mean long and unpredictable transfers—you’ll need some buffer time. The ideal plan would be landing in Praia, transferring to Santo Antão (via Mindelo), and returning from São Vicente.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Thanks Bruno, that’s really nice of you. I’ll check via Barcelona (I didn’t know about that stopover) because via Lisbon the schedules aren’t convenient unless I book two separate tickets. With Transavia, it’s almost half the price for Mindelo.

After that, it obviously depends on how much time you’ll spend in Cape Verde, because the logistics there can involve long and unpredictable transfers—you need some buffer time. The ideal would be landing in Praia, transferring to Santo Antão (via Mindelo), and returning from São Vicente.

We’re not limited on time, but beach resorts don’t really appeal to us—maybe a day or two max. Same for cities. We’re mostly into rugged landscapes with some vegetation (at least a little), not just volcanic terrain (like Fogo or Lanzarote), and accommodations in inland villages as a priority. I initially thought about arriving and leaving from Mindelo to go to Santo Antão, but we might explore that island quickly, so landing in Praia could be a good idea. If you remember any nice places to stay (good value for money) in São Vicente, Santo Antão, or even Praia, I’d love to hear about them. Did you do Praia-Mindelo by ferry or by plane? Have a great day.
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
I’ll look into accommodations. But oops, my bad—I meant Lisbon, not Barcelona! 😅🤦 😇 🤪
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
No worries, I also mentioned Lanzarote, which isn’t in Cape Verde! :( And Transavia instead of easyJet!

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