Hello,
We’d like to spend a week in Luxor and Aswan in February.
I’d asked a tour operator to organize the trip for us, but I think it’s way too expensive for what’s included.
So I’m going to try to plan it myself, and with your help if you don’t mind.
We’re 76 and 77 years old and in good shape, but I doubt we’ll be getting up at 6 a.m. every day. I bought a paper guidebook, but I haven’t read it all yet.
We arrive on a Saturday at 5 p.m. and leave the following Saturday at 6 p.m.
Here’s what I’d like to do:
The first three days in Luxor:
- Valley of the Kings: 3 tombs + Seti I and Ramses VI, and Hatshepsut; see the Colossi of Memnon along the way. Ramesseum???
First question: How much time do we need for this? I can’t figure it out. Can we see anything else the same day without feeling overwhelmed or too tired?
- Karnak Temple: Should we start with it or with Luxor Temple? How much time for both? Sound and light show in the evening? Or just Luxor Temple illuminated?
Can the Avenue of Sphinxes be seen separately?
- Valley of the Nobles (2 combined tickets), Artisans’ Village, and Medinet Habu: Same question—how much time? Can we see anything else?
No one ever talks about lunch or going back to visit in the afternoon. Is it too hot? I saw there are one or two small restaurants near the temples—do you know any? Or is it better to go back to Luxor?
What’s a fair price for a taxi for a day like this? We’ll probably stay on the East Bank.
- Day 4: Then we’d like to go to Aswan, stopping at Edfu and Kom Ombo along the way. I’ve seen prices around 140 € for a private car with a driver.
- Day 5: Unfortunately, no matter how I rearrange the days, we’ll only have one day for Abu Simbel. I’ve seen prices around 140–150 €. I don’t plan on getting up at 3 a.m.—what time should we leave so it’s not too bad?
We won’t have much time to explore Aswan after two days on the road plus a third to return to Luxor.
- Day 6: Philae Temple—I’ve read a lot of comments saying it’s a madhouse to get the boat. How much should we pay to avoid haggling for hours???
How much time for the visit?
Return to Luxor—I was tempted to take the train, but so far I’ve only seen options very early in the morning. The price is also around 150 €.
- Day 7: In Luxor, since our flight leaves at 6 p.m., I thought we’d visit the Luxor Museum.
Does this itinerary seem reasonable? Is there another way to organize it?
Of course, if you know drivers who offer good rates, I’m interested—but I want a good driver who doesn’t drive too fast, a car with AC and in good condition for the long trips (we’re not 20 anymore).
Thanks for reading this far, and all your advice is welcome! Annaïck
Hi everyone,
Sure, it's really easy to organize your trip on your own without a tour operator or agency.
I’ll get back to you this weekend if possible—I’m swamped right now, but you’ve got plenty of time to figure things out. For starters, here’s a little tip if you don’t want to rely on a guide: do some research online about what you want to see. That way, you’ll at least know a bit and won’t just stand there clueless in front of such beauty.
Do you need help with accommodation or anything else in Luxor and Aswan?
Talk soon,
Thoutmosis
To answer generally, the pace of visits is quite personal.
My suggestions below are for a relaxed pace, though not too leisurely.
For your 3 days in Luxor, here’s a possible organization:
- Take the boat to the Luxor Museum. At the dock, negotiate a car: Expect around 10 € for a driver for the day.
- Day 1: Valley of the Kings according to the program you mentioned. Indeed, Seti I is wonderful, and Ramses V/VI is well worth the extra cost. Among the 3 basic tombs, I’d choose Ramses I (right next to his son Seti I’s tomb), Ramses III, and Tausert/Sethnakht.
If you want a completely different experience, a tomb that’s rarely visited and where you’ll be absolutely alone is Ay’s, in a neighboring valley to the Valley of the Kings. You’ll need your driver to take you there. The extra cost is low. For the typical duration, count 4-5 hours, a little more if you visit Ay. I’d then recommend visiting the Temple of Medinet Habu (get your ticket at the ticket office on the way) and stopping at the Colossi of Memnon on your way back.
- Day 2: If you start with Karnak, you’ll have the chance to return to the Luxor Temple in the late afternoon via the Avenue of Sphinxes and enjoy the temple’s lighting, which is magnificent.
- Day 3: Buy your tickets at the ticket office for everything except Hatshepsut. Start with Hatshepsut while it’s not too crowded, then the Ramesseum and the Valley of the Nobles in Sheikh Abd el-Qurna (in this order: Ramose, Userhat (TT56), Rekhmire, Sennefer, then head north toward the stunning tombs of Nakht and Menna). To finish the day, visit the artisans' village and, if you have time, the Valley of the Queens. If Nefertari’s tomb has reopened, it’s truly extraordinary—at least on par with Seti I. In that case, the Valley of the Queens is a must.
- Day 4: Yes, that’s about the price you should expect (no more).
For Aswan, my advice for visiting Abu Simbel in the best conditions is to spend a night there. The transport will be more expensive (2 days, expect around 200 €). You’ll be less tired (otherwise, it’s 7-8 hours of driving in one day) and you’ll be there at the best times (magical sunrise), with the sound and light show as a bonus.
- Day 5: Visit Philae in the morning (around 300-400 LE for the boat, not per person), then head to Abu Simbel. You can optionally visit the temples a first time without crowds and especially attend the sound and light show.
- Day 6: The next morning, you’ll still need to wake up a bit early to see the sunrise over the temples: an extraordinary spectacle with truly magical light.
Around 10 AM, return to Aswan, then Luxor (there are afternoon trains).
Thanks Emmanuel for taking the time to write such a long message. I really like the plan for Abu Simbel—I’ll look into it. On the way back on Friday, that’ll be a lot of driving too. Is it better to take the train from Aswan?
I checked the Abela Trains website, but it might be a bit early.
For Ay’s tomb, do we get the ticket at the same place as the other tomb tickets?
Yes, inevitably, from Abu Simbel to Luxor is a long journey.
The ideal would have been (or would be?) to return to France from Aswan rather than Luxor.
For the Aswan - Luxor train, I’m convinced because last year I drove a friend from Abu Simbel to Aswan, and she took the train from Aswan around 12-1 PM to Luxor.
hi @Balata, I don’t know if your choice for February was calculated, but from what I remember, the locals told me it’s the least hot month. I was there last year in September–October, and we really struggled with the heat, which has gotten worse with climate change (words from Egyptians). So, great choice for February!
Having been there in January, February, and March, I can tell you that:
- January is generally a bit colder (you’ll pretty much keep your sweater on all the time)
- February is a bit milder, but much more crowded—even overcrowded
- March is, in my opinion, the ideal time; it’s not too hot yet, and there are far fewer people.
Hi there,
Just a heads-up that in 2026, Ramadan is expected to take place between mid-February and mid-March.
I’ve traveled during Ramadan in Egypt and Jordan before—it’s not impossible to visit, but it *is* a unique time. There are upsides (nighttime festivities, strong spiritual energy in places of worship, etc.) and downsides (delays, closures, tension in the air...).
Hello Balata,
Sorry, I’ve been super busy so I couldn’t reply in more detail.
You’ve already gotten some info from other contributors.
First, a small clarification: it’s impossible to give you a time estimate for each site—it really depends on everyone’s interests (for example, I can spend more than half a day at temples like Karnak or Medinet Habu, and the same goes for the tombs—I stay quite a while, but not long enough to get mummified 😉😉. So it’s up to you—what do you usually do?
For the tombs in the Valley of the Kings, you’ll see which ones are open once you’re there. So you can make your choice, and I completely agree with Sennedjem about the tomb selections. Ay and Horemheb are also beautiful, and they’re in the Valley of the Monkeys. You can go there with your taxi since it’s very far.
For Karnak, if you want to visit Luxor Temple right after, the best option—if you’re staying on the west bank—is to take the ferry (ask which one) that goes to the hospital past the museum. That way, you’ve already covered half the distance. Once you’ve visited Karnak, do as Sennedjem suggests and return via the Dromos. But if you want to continue (about halfway along the Dromos), you’ll need to pay for a ticket to Luxor Temple. Otherwise, you’ll have to leave the Dromos. Ask Sennedjem if it’s still like that—if nothing’s changed.
You mentioned, "Valley of the Nobles: 2 combined tickets, artisans’ village, and Medinet Habu." What do you mean? There are no combined tickets. Maybe you meant visiting them one after the other?
At the artisans’ village, you’re allowed to visit three tombs. And don’t forget to go to the back of the village, taking a right (following the village) until you reach the small Temple of Hathor. It’s from a later period, but the colored frescoes are magnificent. Among other things, you’ll find a representation of the Weighing of the Soul with the Great Devourer.
In the Valley of the Nobles, visit Ramose’s tomb. On the right side of the back door (closed to the public), you’ll find a depiction of Akhenaten and Nefertiti with their family worshipping Aten (the figures have been chiseled out, but it’s one of the few almost-intact frescoes of this kind). To see it well and avoid the sun’s glare, the best time is in the afternoon or very early in the morning. Also, it’s best to stay on the west bank—you’ll only need the ferry for the two temples on the east side.
For Aswan, it’s perfectly possible to visit the temples and tombs along the road, like when leaving Luxor: Esna, the tombs of El Kab (tickets available on-site along the road), just after the Temple of Edfu, then Kom Ombo (be sure to specify what you want to see, and leave no later than 6 AM).
Since you’re arriving late in Aswan, it’s impossible to go there the same day.
If you don’t have much time in Aswan, you won’t be able to pick up your tickets at the bus station. You can leave either at 7 AM or 8 AM (depending on the day) and return with the last bus, which—if nothing’s changed—leaves around 5 PM. Ask when you buy your tickets and get a return ticket. Otherwise, hire a taxi for the day or a minibus.
For the train back to Luxor, there are afternoon trains—I always take those.
Also, the best time to visit Egypt is from late October to late March. Otherwise, we always go from mid-January to mid-March. But depending on the year, you can have daytime temperatures of 30 to 40 °C in February, or even fog for several days with a heavy, oppressive feeling. As Sennedjem mentioned, January can be very cold, even in February—especially in the evenings. So bring a light sweater (or a thick one). In 2014, it was so cold in the evenings that we had to eat in our room. Even the braziers in the garden weren’t enough to warm anyone up (we recorded 4 °C). And to continue with temperatures: in 2018 and 2020, it was 57 °C in Aswan and 60 °C at Abu Simbel 😎. I don’t mind the heat, but my wife does.
I’ll send you more info privately that could help with your travels. I’ll do that tomorrow, I promise.
Thoutmosis
Hi Christine,
Yes, my choice was calculated based on the flight ticket too, but unfortunately, it's also school holidays in France. I didn’t want to go too early because of the cold or too late because of the heat😐. I just saw that the last two days will also be during Ramadan.
We’ll see how it goes.
Hi Balata,
You won’t have any issues with the Ramadan period—all the sites stay open.
Just keep in mind that some shops might close on certain days, like Fridays, which is the main prayer day for Muslims (the equivalent of our Sunday). Plus, even outside of Ramadan, Friday is a holy day for Muslims, so it’s a day to avoid for sightseeing since it gets really crowded (though it doesn’t bother us). And if you make some friends, you might even get invited to share their meal at the end of the day.
Thoutmosis
Don’t miss Abu Simbel no matter the cost, and make sure to visit the Luxor Museum—it’d be a real shame to skip it.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
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This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!
