Exchanging Euros in Cape Verde
by Djalma
Translated into English.
Original post
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi Jean-Michel,
The exchange rate is fixed—actually 110 for 1—but the exchange fees are higher at the airport. So, it's best to do it in the city.
Personally, I paid for the taxi in euros from the airport and then exchanged money at a bank in the city. I don’t remember the hours, though.
Make sure to recount in front of the teller—the counting machine had "forgotten" 3,000 CVE for me.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Hi Bruno,
Thanks for the info. Actually, I was wondering if it’s possible to exchange money in town since we’re arriving on a Saturday. We’re scheduled to land at 11 AM, and there’s (supposedly) only one bank open until 3 PM.... Since we’re not too interested in hanging around Praia, we’ll head straight to Tarrafal (with or without escudos).
Do you remember if restaurants in Tarrafal accept cards? Because apparently, the place I’m planning to stay (if there’s space) only takes cash. 🙁
So in Tarrafal, card payments are a no-go by default—most restaurants (except maybe the fanciest ones) don’t even have a card terminal.
If you’re heading straight from Praia to Tarrafal (which is a solid option), you’ve got two choices:
- A pre-negotiated taxi from the airport (contact your host). You can ask them to stop at a bank before 3 PM (either in Tarrafal or Assomada). Make sure to specify this when booking. Minimum 50 € for the ride, and they don’t care if it’s euros or escudos (just no coins).
- A local taxi for 15 € from the airport to Sucupira Market, where *aluguers* (shared vans) leave for Tarrafal. At Sucupira, there’s a bank right across from the market—you’ll get there before 3 PM, exchange money, and take an *aluguer* (5 € per person + luggage, so about 20 € if you’re two).
After a flight and for a first taste of the country, the choice is easy for me—I splurge on the taxi.
During my trip, I paid for almost everything in cash, exchanging euros at the bank.
If you’re heading straight from Praia to Tarrafal (which is a solid option), you’ve got two choices:
- A pre-negotiated taxi from the airport (contact your host). You can ask them to stop at a bank before 3 PM (either in Tarrafal or Assomada). Make sure to specify this when booking. Minimum 50 € for the ride, and they don’t care if it’s euros or escudos (just no coins).
- A local taxi for 15 € from the airport to Sucupira Market, where *aluguers* (shared vans) leave for Tarrafal. At Sucupira, there’s a bank right across from the market—you’ll get there before 3 PM, exchange money, and take an *aluguer* (5 € per person + luggage, so about 20 € if you’re two).
After a flight and for a first taste of the country, the choice is easy for me—I splurge on the taxi.
During my trip, I paid for almost everything in cash, exchanging euros at the bank.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
A Sucupira, opposite the market, there's a bank. You'll be there before 3 PM, exchange money and take an aluguer (5 €/person + luggage, so 20 € if there are two of you).
Yes, but I think only Caixa Económica de Cabo Verde is open on Saturdays. That’s what I found online, anyway. Thanks for the info—we’ll see depending on how we feel at the time and the circumstances whether we take an aluguer or a taxi😄 PS: Did you exchange money in Tarrafal? Do you think the exchange rate isn’t too steep? 100 escudos/1 euro?
Yes, but I think only Caixa Económica de Cabo Verde is open on Saturdays. That’s what I found online, anyway. Thanks for the info—we’ll see depending on how we feel at the time and the circumstances whether we take an aluguer or a taxi😄 PS: Did you exchange money in Tarrafal? Do you think the exchange rate isn’t too steep? 100 escudos/1 euro?
Ps: Did you exchange money in Tarrafal? Do you think the exchange rate isn't too steep? 100 escudos to 1 euro?
We also arrived on Saturday for 2 nights in Praia, in the Plato area. I exchanged money directly at the bank that afternoon (not all of them were open, in fact).
If the exchange rate is steep, who am I to judge? That’s just how it is, end of story. I don’t get your question, though. By the way, it’s 110 escudos to the euro.
At worst, you can save yourself the headache and exchange 200 € for the weekend at the airport, then do the rest on Monday at the bank. 🤷🏾♂️
We also arrived on Saturday for 2 nights in Praia, in the Plato area. I exchanged money directly at the bank that afternoon (not all of them were open, in fact).
If the exchange rate is steep, who am I to judge? That’s just how it is, end of story. I don’t get your question, though. By the way, it’s 110 escudos to the euro.
At worst, you can save yourself the headache and exchange 200 € for the weekend at the airport, then do the rest on Monday at the bank. 🤷🏾♂️
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Yeah, that’s it... I’m just hesitating between exchanging a large sum in Praia at a good rate if it doesn’t take too long to find the right bank, or heading straight to Tarrafal from the airport by taxi and exchanging a small amount there if the rate is too penalizing.
Hi there,
The official exchange rate is fixed: 1 euro = 110 escudos.
After that, it’s the fees that can vary. But hey, it’s not the end of the world—you’re on vacation after all! ;O)
You’re better off exchanging a large amount once rather than several small amounts.
The rate of 1 euro = 100 escudos applies for "private" exchanges, meaning in bars, restaurants, or taxis if you want to pay in euros, or if you exchange cash hand-to-hand.
For info, you can withdraw from ATMs, but in Cape Verde there’s a limit per withdrawal and per day of 20,000 escudos (about 200 euros, then).
I don’t know about Praia, but in Mindelo, I think BAI and BCN banks are open on Saturday afternoons.
The rate of 1 euro = 100 escudos applies for "private" exchanges, meaning in bars, restaurants, or taxis if you want to pay in euros, or if you exchange cash hand-to-hand.
For info, you can withdraw from ATMs, but in Cape Verde there’s a limit per withdrawal and per day of 20,000 escudos (about 200 euros, then).
I don’t know about Praia, but in Mindelo, I think BAI and BCN banks are open on Saturday afternoons.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Generally, I exchange a large sum just once and pay with my card (no fees) whenever possible. I avoid ATMs as much as I can since I had my card swallowed one Friday night! No way to get it back before Monday!
There are countries where the exchange rate at the airport is really punishing. That’s why I’m asking—since banks will be closed Saturday afternoon and I’ll have to wait until Monday—but I saw that in Tarrafal there’s a place to exchange money (I was imagining a big village with no bank).
By the way, there are two Tarrafals, including a small one on Santo Antão—I’m not sure if there’s a bank there 😅
There are countries where the exchange rate at the airport is really punishing. That’s why I’m asking—since banks will be closed Saturday afternoon and I’ll have to wait until Monday—but I saw that in Tarrafal there’s a place to exchange money (I was imagining a big village with no bank).
By the way, there are two Tarrafals, including a small one on Santo Antão—I’m not sure if there’s a bank there 😅
Hi there!
There are plenty of places called "Tarrafal" in Cape Verde!
Actually, there’s no bank, ATM, or gas station in Tarrafal de Monte Trigo on Santo Antão. That one’s a small village. But Tarrafal on Santiago is already a small town. It was flooded two days ago by heavy rains, but I imagine everything will be back to normal by the time you travel.
Actually, there’s no bank, ATM, or gas station in Tarrafal de Monte Trigo on Santo Antão. That one’s a small village. But Tarrafal on Santiago is already a small town. It was flooded two days ago by heavy rains, but I imagine everything will be back to normal by the time you travel.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Indeed, no bank, ATM, or gas station in Tarrafal de Monte Trigo on Santo Antão.
That works great for us! I’m planning to spend 3 nights there (after the trek(s)) and also 2 nights in Ponta do Sol (música de mar). It seems livelier there! I’ve got another little question, this time about the treks. I’m not used to booking in advance, but when I simulated a route, I noticed that accommodations are often fully booked. Overtourism in Santo Antão already?! Since there was only one night left available for all of January, I booked a night (the only possible one) at Quinta Cochete. I’ve mapped out a 2-day route, but I don’t see any lodging in the Cha d’Orgueiro/Cha Quemado/Alto Mira 2 area. On the second day, I plan to leave that area, go through Selada de Alto Mira, then take the "Bordera de Norte" path (Mont Caldorniz) to descend to Cha de Norte (Quinta Cochete). Do you know of any accommodation near Cha d’Orgueiro?
That works great for us! I’m planning to spend 3 nights there (after the trek(s)) and also 2 nights in Ponta do Sol (música de mar). It seems livelier there! I’ve got another little question, this time about the treks. I’m not used to booking in advance, but when I simulated a route, I noticed that accommodations are often fully booked. Overtourism in Santo Antão already?! Since there was only one night left available for all of January, I booked a night (the only possible one) at Quinta Cochete. I’ve mapped out a 2-day route, but I don’t see any lodging in the Cha d’Orgueiro/Cha Quemado/Alto Mira 2 area. On the second day, I plan to leave that area, go through Selada de Alto Mira, then take the "Bordera de Norte" path (Mont Caldorniz) to descend to Cha de Norte (Quinta Cochete). Do you know of any accommodation near Cha d’Orgueiro?
Hi there!
I see you live in Ponta do Sol—could you help me out with this?
Are there any public transports (Aluguer or bus) on Saturdays from Ponta do Sol to Porto Novo in the morning? Do they leave early?
Thanks!
Hello,
I see you live in Ponta Do Sol, so you can answer my question:
Are there any public transports (Aluguer or bus) on Saturdays from Ponta do Sol to Porto Novo? In the morning? Do they leave early?
Thanks.
I stayed there for 3 nights—does that count? Yes, there are aluguers leaving from the central square. We took one at noon for the 4 PM ferry. But there are earlier ones; they leave once they're full...
I stayed there for 3 nights—does that count? Yes, there are aluguers leaving from the central square. We took one at noon for the 4 PM ferry. But there are earlier ones; they leave once they're full...
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
I stayed there for 3 nights, does that count?
Yeah, you’ve got aluguers leaving from the central square.
Of course! But was it definitely a SATURDAY?
Of course! But was it definitely a SATURDAY?
I lived there for 3 nights, does that count?
Yes, you have aluguers leaving from the central square.
Yes, of course! But was it a SATURDAY?
Ugh, and here I thought you’d followed my travel journal to the letter—I’m so disappointed 🙁 Joking, of course, it’s not even mentioned in the journal. No, it was a Wednesday. But unless Marie specifically corrected you, aluguers only take a break on Sundays. You shouldn’t have any issues on Saturdays.
Yes, of course! But was it a SATURDAY?
Ugh, and here I thought you’d followed my travel journal to the letter—I’m so disappointed 🙁 Joking, of course, it’s not even mentioned in the journal. No, it was a Wednesday. But unless Marie specifically corrected you, aluguers only take a break on Sundays. You shouldn’t have any issues on Saturdays.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Do you know any accommodation near Cha d'Orgueiro?
Yes, there’s Amadeu’s place in Alto Mira III (but it’s often crowded with groups, so meh), and otherwise a really nice new family-run guesthouse called Pousada Nôs Casa in Alto Mira II. Some friends of ours converted 3 rooms in their home to host travelers, and they have an amazing dining room with huge picture windows overlooking the whole valley! I love it! Tel: 590 82 54
And if you’d prefer an email, I can ask for one.
Yes, there’s Amadeu’s place in Alto Mira III (but it’s often crowded with groups, so meh), and otherwise a really nice new family-run guesthouse called Pousada Nôs Casa in Alto Mira II. Some friends of ours converted 3 rooms in their home to host travelers, and they have an amazing dining room with huge picture windows overlooking the whole valley! I love it! Tel: 590 82 54
And if you’d prefer an email, I can ask for one.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Hello
I see you live in Ponta Do Sol, so you might be able to answer my question:
Are there any public transports (Aluguer or bus) on Saturdays from Ponta do Sol to Porto Novo? In the morning? Do they leave early?
Thanks.
Hello Yes, every day, morning AND afternoon. These are "special" shared rides that shuttle people to and from the ferry. Usually, it's Philipp and his team. All accommodations here know them, so no worries about organizing it. The advantage is they do door-to-door service to pick up or drop off people, which is really handy with luggage. They do the rounds between 6:30-7:00 AM for the morning ferries and between 1:30-2:00 PM for the afternoon ones (and on Sundays, it all depends on the ferry schedules, which sometimes change). Marie
Hello Yes, every day, morning AND afternoon. These are "special" shared rides that shuttle people to and from the ferry. Usually, it's Philipp and his team. All accommodations here know them, so no worries about organizing it. The advantage is they do door-to-door service to pick up or drop off people, which is really handy with luggage. They do the rounds between 6:30-7:00 AM for the morning ferries and between 1:30-2:00 PM for the afternoon ones (and on Sundays, it all depends on the ferry schedules, which sometimes change). Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Yes, there’s Amadeu in Alto Mira III (but it’s often crowded with groups, so meh)
In the meantime, I found his address. His messages are very laconic. To all my questions, he always replies: "Confirmado. Obg." Like he always has space... Actually, I asked him if he had space on certain dates and if he could (for a fee) transport our luggage from or to Suzeth’s place or to Quinta Cochete so we could do a 2-day hike or a one-way trip from one point to another.
*Otherwise, there’s a small, recent, and lovely family-run guesthouse called Pousada Nôs Casa in Alto Mira II. They’re friends of ours who set up 3 rooms in their home to host travelers, plus a gorgeous dining room with huge bay windows overlooking the whole valley! I love it! Tel: 590 82 54
And if you prefer email, I can ask for it
Yes, I’d love an email. (I’ll keep the phone number to finalize details.) Alto Mira II is served by Aluguers from Porto Novo, I assume? Do they know the exact location of the Pousada? The issue is the exact date... From the 10th to the 15th, we’ll have done several hikes, including a loop. In Ponta do Sol, we have to be there for 2 nights—that’s the only place I’ve booked (A Música do Mar on January 15th and 16th). The 17th is a Saturday, and I wanted to make sure there’s transport in the morning to Porto Novo. Montagnard confirmed there is. On Sunday the 18th, we’ll stay in Porto Novo, and on Monday morning, we’re torn between going to Tarrafal for 3 days (there seem to be plenty of guesthouses there) or heading to your Pousada in Alto Mira. If we go to Tarrafal first, we’ll obviously have to pass through Porto Novo again to get to Alto Mira—unless we find a private driver who could take us either from Tarrafal to Alto Mira or the other way around after Alto Mira (without going back to Porto Novo!). Either way, it’ll be between January 19th and 25th. Since we’ll have already done quite a bit of hiking, in the Alto Mira area, I’d love to do a one-way trip: Alto Mira to Cha da Morte or vice versa. By email, I asked Amadeu if he could transport our luggage from one point to another. His reply: "Confirmado. Obg." If Pousada Nôs in Alto Mira can do it, that’d be amazing!
Yes, every day, morning AND afternoon. These are "special" shared taxis that shuttle people to and from the ferry. Usually, it’s Philipp and his team. All accommodations here know them, so no worries about organizing it. The advantage is they do door-to-door service for pickups and drop-offs, which is super handy with luggage. They do the rounds between 6:30–7:00 AM for the morning ferries and between 1:30–2:00 PM for the afternoon ones (and on Sundays, it depends on the ferry schedule, which sometimes changes).
The 1:30–2:00 PM one on Saturday, January 17th would work perfectly for us! We’re not in a rush to get back to Porto Novo. You mean there’s one on Sunday too?!
In the meantime, I found his address. His messages are very laconic. To all my questions, he always replies: "Confirmado. Obg." Like he always has space... Actually, I asked him if he had space on certain dates and if he could (for a fee) transport our luggage from or to Suzeth’s place or to Quinta Cochete so we could do a 2-day hike or a one-way trip from one point to another.
*Otherwise, there’s a small, recent, and lovely family-run guesthouse called Pousada Nôs Casa in Alto Mira II. They’re friends of ours who set up 3 rooms in their home to host travelers, plus a gorgeous dining room with huge bay windows overlooking the whole valley! I love it! Tel: 590 82 54
Yes, I’d love an email. (I’ll keep the phone number to finalize details.) Alto Mira II is served by Aluguers from Porto Novo, I assume? Do they know the exact location of the Pousada? The issue is the exact date... From the 10th to the 15th, we’ll have done several hikes, including a loop. In Ponta do Sol, we have to be there for 2 nights—that’s the only place I’ve booked (A Música do Mar on January 15th and 16th). The 17th is a Saturday, and I wanted to make sure there’s transport in the morning to Porto Novo. Montagnard confirmed there is. On Sunday the 18th, we’ll stay in Porto Novo, and on Monday morning, we’re torn between going to Tarrafal for 3 days (there seem to be plenty of guesthouses there) or heading to your Pousada in Alto Mira. If we go to Tarrafal first, we’ll obviously have to pass through Porto Novo again to get to Alto Mira—unless we find a private driver who could take us either from Tarrafal to Alto Mira or the other way around after Alto Mira (without going back to Porto Novo!). Either way, it’ll be between January 19th and 25th. Since we’ll have already done quite a bit of hiking, in the Alto Mira area, I’d love to do a one-way trip: Alto Mira to Cha da Morte or vice versa. By email, I asked Amadeu if he could transport our luggage from one point to another. His reply: "Confirmado. Obg." If Pousada Nôs in Alto Mira can do it, that’d be amazing!
Yes, every day, morning AND afternoon. These are "special" shared taxis that shuttle people to and from the ferry. Usually, it’s Philipp and his team. All accommodations here know them, so no worries about organizing it. The advantage is they do door-to-door service for pickups and drop-offs, which is super handy with luggage. They do the rounds between 6:30–7:00 AM for the morning ferries and between 1:30–2:00 PM for the afternoon ones (and on Sundays, it depends on the ferry schedule, which sometimes changes).
The 1:30–2:00 PM one on Saturday, January 17th would work perfectly for us! We’re not in a rush to get back to Porto Novo. You mean there’s one on Sunday too?!
Good evening
Alto Mira 2 is served by Aluguer from Porto Novo, I assume? Do they know the exact location of the Pousada?
The road ends at Alto Mira II near a kind of bell tower/campanile. Then you have to walk down a few meters to reach the Pousada (with a backpack it's easier than with a suitcase! ;O) If you ask at Jack's, everyone knows.
On Monday morning, we're hesitating between going to Tarrafal for 3 days... (from what I've seen, there are quite a few guesthouses there)
Umm... yes and no. If there's one place where I think you *should* book, it's there! ;O) The supply is limited, and there are always quite a few people. Except that Tarrafal Guesthouse has expanded a lot and now has plenty of rooms... but still.
I asked Amadeu by email if he could transport our luggage from one place to another... His reply: "Confirmado. Obg"😏 If the Pousada Nôs d'Alto Mira can do it, that would be great!
You'll have to ask them. The one at 1:30 PM / 2 PM on Saturday, January 17th would work perfectly for us! We're not in a hurry to return to Porto Novo... You mean there are also some on Sunday?!
What about Sunday? Collectivos or ferries? Either way: both, captain. There are ferries and therefore shuttles from Ponta do Sol to get there. Getting to PN isn't usually a problem, even on Sundays. It's the rest that's tricky on Sundays.
Alto Mira 2 is served by Aluguer from Porto Novo, I assume? Do they know the exact location of the Pousada?
The road ends at Alto Mira II near a kind of bell tower/campanile. Then you have to walk down a few meters to reach the Pousada (with a backpack it's easier than with a suitcase! ;O) If you ask at Jack's, everyone knows.
On Monday morning, we're hesitating between going to Tarrafal for 3 days... (from what I've seen, there are quite a few guesthouses there)
Umm... yes and no. If there's one place where I think you *should* book, it's there! ;O) The supply is limited, and there are always quite a few people. Except that Tarrafal Guesthouse has expanded a lot and now has plenty of rooms... but still.
I asked Amadeu by email if he could transport our luggage from one place to another... His reply: "Confirmado. Obg"😏 If the Pousada Nôs d'Alto Mira can do it, that would be great!
You'll have to ask them. The one at 1:30 PM / 2 PM on Saturday, January 17th would work perfectly for us! We're not in a hurry to return to Porto Novo... You mean there are also some on Sunday?!
What about Sunday? Collectivos or ferries? Either way: both, captain. There are ferries and therefore shuttles from Ponta do Sol to get there. Getting to PN isn't usually a problem, even on Sundays. It's the rest that's tricky on Sundays.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Good evening,
Here’s the email from Djack at Pousada Nôs Casa in Alto Mira II: djackneves@hotmail.com
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Okay, thanks—I’ll contact them.
Just so you know, in Tarrafal, I’ve got 4 or 5 guesthouses telling me they have availability for several days. Mar Tranquilidade, Marina de Tarrafal, and two others...
Question: Is Suzeth Pinto still running her guesthouse? I haven’t gotten a response...
Question: Does Suzeth Pinto still have her guesthouse? I haven’t gotten a response...
Yes. But she changed the name. I think it’s now called Pousada Sossego. But it seems the email is the same. Maybe you just need to be patient. But yes, she’s still there.
Yes. But she changed the name. I think it’s now called Pousada Sossego. But it seems the email is the same. Maybe you just need to be patient. But yes, she’s still there.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Thanks.
Hi there,
We’re planning to spend most of our trip in Cape Verde on Santo Antão, as we’re not too interested in the other islands.
I’m currently mapping out a few stops to balance day or two-day hikes with rest days and beach walks, relying on 2 or 3 private transports and the rest by "aluguer público." That’s when I realized that outside of Tarrafal de Monte Trigo—where there are several available accommodations—finding a place to stay is tricky. For example, in Ponta do Sol, free lodgings are disappearing fast. Seeing this, I booked 2 nights at Música do Mar.
But with our dates, this creates a problem for our itinerary. From Ponta do Sol, we wanted to head to Porto Novo on a Sunday and take an aluguer on Monday to Tarrafal de Monte Trigo, where two accommodations confirmed our "reservations" are okay even without a deposit.
So here are my questions: In Ponta do Sol, we booked 2 nights—Friday and Saturday—so our stay there ends on a Sunday morning. Thinking there’s no public transport to Porto Novo on Sundays, I tried to extend by one day, but it’s fully booked. I have two options: 1- Change lodging for one extra night in Ponta do Sol and leave for Porto Novo on Monday morning. 2- Take a collective aluguer on Sunday morning, since our host assures me there are "collectivos" on Sunday mornings in Ponta do Sol. I know a private ride would solve the issue, but we’re already planning 3 of those, and the budget’s adding up… Could you check if these "collectivos" really run on SSunday mornings? And where exactly do they leave from?
Another question: In Porto Novo, where exactly do you go to catch the collective aluguer to Tarrafal? (To maximize our chances of leaving.) I’ve read they leave around 10:30 AM / 11:00 AM (when full, of course). Do you think it’s really necessary to arrive at the aluguer departure point by 8:00 AM?
PS: If anyone else can answer my questions, don’t hesitate! 😄
But with our dates, this creates a problem for our itinerary. From Ponta do Sol, we wanted to head to Porto Novo on a Sunday and take an aluguer on Monday to Tarrafal de Monte Trigo, where two accommodations confirmed our "reservations" are okay even without a deposit.
So here are my questions: In Ponta do Sol, we booked 2 nights—Friday and Saturday—so our stay there ends on a Sunday morning. Thinking there’s no public transport to Porto Novo on Sundays, I tried to extend by one day, but it’s fully booked. I have two options: 1- Change lodging for one extra night in Ponta do Sol and leave for Porto Novo on Monday morning. 2- Take a collective aluguer on Sunday morning, since our host assures me there are "collectivos" on Sunday mornings in Ponta do Sol. I know a private ride would solve the issue, but we’re already planning 3 of those, and the budget’s adding up… Could you check if these "collectivos" really run on SSunday mornings? And where exactly do they leave from?
Another question: In Porto Novo, where exactly do you go to catch the collective aluguer to Tarrafal? (To maximize our chances of leaving.) I’ve read they leave around 10:30 AM / 11:00 AM (when full, of course). Do you think it’s really necessary to arrive at the aluguer departure point by 8:00 AM?
PS: If anyone else can answer my questions, don’t hesitate! 😄
Hi there,
I must say that this year, there are *tons* of tourists here in Ponta do Sol! People are knocking on my door because they have nowhere to stay...
About aluguers from Ponta do Sol on Sundays, I think we’ve already covered this in another discussion. I can confirm that there are shared taxis to Porto Novo on Sunday mornings. These are specialized shuttles that go back and forth to Porto Novo. They do door-to-door service, so just ask your host (Musica do Mar) once you’re there, and they’ll either notify the driver or give you their contact info. Super easy. They make the rounds between 6:30-7:00 AM.
For Tarrafal, the aluguers heading there are usually parked in front of the Antilhas hotel-restaurant in Porto Novo, just across from the port, a little to the right when you turn your back to the dock (it’s marked on Google Maps). But you can just ask around—people will happily point you in the right direction. I think the earlier you let them know, the better, so you can reserve your spots. Just so you know, it’s not always the most comfortable ride: either you’re packed in tight, or you’re in the back of a pickup (bring sunscreen, but also a jacket and scarf for the wind). Marie
About aluguers from Ponta do Sol on Sundays, I think we’ve already covered this in another discussion. I can confirm that there are shared taxis to Porto Novo on Sunday mornings. These are specialized shuttles that go back and forth to Porto Novo. They do door-to-door service, so just ask your host (Musica do Mar) once you’re there, and they’ll either notify the driver or give you their contact info. Super easy. They make the rounds between 6:30-7:00 AM.
For Tarrafal, the aluguers heading there are usually parked in front of the Antilhas hotel-restaurant in Porto Novo, just across from the port, a little to the right when you turn your back to the dock (it’s marked on Google Maps). But you can just ask around—people will happily point you in the right direction. I think the earlier you let them know, the better, so you can reserve your spots. Just so you know, it’s not always the most comfortable ride: either you’re packed in tight, or you’re in the back of a pickup (bring sunscreen, but also a jacket and scarf for the wind). Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
They do door-to-door service, so just ask your host (Musica do Mar) once you're there, and they’ll notify the driver or give you their contact info. Super easy. They make their rounds between 6:30-7:00 AM.
.
My host at Musica Do Mar told me no! Only private exchanges for 50 euros... It was by asking another rental place that I got a different answer... They leave early in the morning around 07:00/07:30 AM, so it makes you wonder.
For Tarrafal, the aluguers for that destination are often parked in front of the Antilhas hotel-restaurant in Porto Novo,
Okay, got it... Thanks. But no departures for Tarrafal on Sunday around 10 or 11 AM, I guess? Only starting Monday?
.
My host at Musica Do Mar told me no! Only private exchanges for 50 euros... It was by asking another rental place that I got a different answer... They leave early in the morning around 07:00/07:30 AM, so it makes you wonder.
For Tarrafal, the aluguers for that destination are often parked in front of the Antilhas hotel-restaurant in Porto Novo,
Okay, got it... Thanks. But no departures for Tarrafal on Sunday around 10 or 11 AM, I guess? Only starting Monday?
Hi Jean-Michel,
Sure, I can see why you’d be unsure—I get it.
I don’t know who’s responding to messages at Musica do Mar (are they even on-site?), but I can confirm there are shared vans from Ponta do Sol to Porto Novo every day, twice a day. I’ll even send you Philipp’s contact in a private message. We always work with him. He and his team of drivers (among others) run this shuttle, and he’s totally trustworthy. He speaks a little French. Departure between 6:30-7:00 AM.
As for shared vans from Porto Novo to Tarrafal on Sunday mornings, I can’t 100% guarantee it—it depends if they have people to drop off or pick up from the ferry. With tourism growing, I’d say they now run the shuttle daily, but that wasn’t the case before. You should ask your host in Tarrafal instead. Marie
I don’t know who’s responding to messages at Musica do Mar (are they even on-site?), but I can confirm there are shared vans from Ponta do Sol to Porto Novo every day, twice a day. I’ll even send you Philipp’s contact in a private message. We always work with him. He and his team of drivers (among others) run this shuttle, and he’s totally trustworthy. He speaks a little French. Departure between 6:30-7:00 AM.
As for shared vans from Porto Novo to Tarrafal on Sunday mornings, I can’t 100% guarantee it—it depends if they have people to drop off or pick up from the ferry. With tourism growing, I’d say they now run the shuttle daily, but that wasn’t the case before. You should ask your host in Tarrafal instead. Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Hi Marie,
One more little question. Based on my info, there are (except on Thursdays) at least 2 ferries from Porto Novo to Mindelo: one in the morning and another in the afternoon around 3 or 4 PM. Here’s the thing: returning from Tarrafal de Monte Trigo, we don’t want to spend a night in Porto Novo. From what I understand, the *collectivos* from Tarrafal to Porto Novo leave pretty early in the morning from Tarrafal? And the travel time is roughly 1 hour 15 minutes? Even if we account for extra time, we shouldn’t have any problem catching an afternoon ferry to Mindelo the same day, right? In case the *collectivo* is delayed or doesn’t leave from Tarrafal, I assume we can quickly find a private ride?
At the dock in Porto Novo, is it enough to be there half an hour before departure? That’s pretty important for us because if we miss this ferry, we might miss our flight from Mindelo to SAL the next morning. 😕
One more little question. Based on my info, there are (except on Thursdays) at least 2 ferries from Porto Novo to Mindelo: one in the morning and another in the afternoon around 3 or 4 PM. Here’s the thing: returning from Tarrafal de Monte Trigo, we don’t want to spend a night in Porto Novo. From what I understand, the *collectivos* from Tarrafal to Porto Novo leave pretty early in the morning from Tarrafal? And the travel time is roughly 1 hour 15 minutes? Even if we account for extra time, we shouldn’t have any problem catching an afternoon ferry to Mindelo the same day, right? In case the *collectivo* is delayed or doesn’t leave from Tarrafal, I assume we can quickly find a private ride?
At the dock in Porto Novo, is it enough to be there half an hour before departure? That’s pretty important for us because if we miss this ferry, we might miss our flight from Mindelo to SAL the next morning. 😕
Hi Jean-Michel,
For the ferries, for the connection between SV and SA, there are 2 companies (Nos ferry and CV Interilhas) that each run 2 crossings per day in both directions. And they swap schedules every 45 days. So there are daily 4 crossings per direction on weekdays. On Sundays, the schedules sometimes vary, but there are still always 4 crossings.
So on weekdays, SA-SV departures are at 9 AM, 10 AM, 4 PM, and 5 PM.
You can find all the info on their websites and even book online. It’s new, but Nos Ferry now also allows online purchases.
By taking a morning shared taxi from Tarrafal, you can even catch a morning ferry. They leave on time (so very early, around 5:30-6 AM) to get people to the ferry on schedule. It’s about a 1h30-1h40 drive. So either you take the morning ferry and spend the rest of the day in SV, or you hang around Porto Novo (not much to see) and take the afternoon ferry. And just in case: it’s always possible to find a private ride from Tarrafal, but it’s best to arrange it the day before since there aren’t tons of vehicles and drivers in the area.
If you already have your ferry ticket, you can arrive 30 minutes early; otherwise, plan for 1 hour.
There you go—now you know everything! Marie
By taking a morning shared taxi from Tarrafal, you can even catch a morning ferry. They leave on time (so very early, around 5:30-6 AM) to get people to the ferry on schedule. It’s about a 1h30-1h40 drive. So either you take the morning ferry and spend the rest of the day in SV, or you hang around Porto Novo (not much to see) and take the afternoon ferry. And just in case: it’s always possible to find a private ride from Tarrafal, but it’s best to arrange it the day before since there aren’t tons of vehicles and drivers in the area.
If you already have your ferry ticket, you can arrive 30 minutes early; otherwise, plan for 1 hour.
There you go—now you know everything! Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Thanks for all these details! 😊
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More discussions
Hi there,
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Thanks! :)
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Thanks! :)
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
Thanks for your feedback, tips, etc.
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing: 23/07: Arrival in Santiago 24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days) 30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days) 05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days) 11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days) 15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike? What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Thanks,
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing: 23/07: Arrival in Santiago 24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days) 30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days) 05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days) 11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days) 15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike? What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Thanks,
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Hi
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
Hi there,
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
Hi there,
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Hello,
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
Hi,
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
Hi everyone,
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
Hello,
We’re planning a trip to São Vicente and Santo Antão in January.
We’re a couple (ages 51 and 57).
My husband is really into hiking. As for me, I’m not at my best right now—I’ve just recovered from a long illness and am still on medication that exhausts me and causes a lot of pain, so I won’t be able to keep up with very "physical" hikes.
That said, I still enjoy walking in nature.
We’re looking for advice on where we could stay. A place where my husband can go hiking while I take shorter walks. But also somewhere I can relax in nature, maybe go for a swim if possible, and enjoy local life—markets, music, etc.
Boat trips would be a great bonus for us.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Virginie