Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
Hi there,
Accommodations: examples include Sea Point, Green Point, Camps Bay (very well located for getting around and safe)
Table Mountain as early as possible
Peninsula with Boulders as early as possible and enter through the small entrance
Lion's Head
Consider the red hop-on hop-off bus. It’s touristy but really convenient for exploring the city without worrying about the car and parking
Stops:
One night in one of the splendid chalets in Agulhas National Park
Mossel Bay near the lighthouse (by the Point Hotel side)
Oudtshoorn... Swartberg Pass, ostriches (meh) and the other passes and the road leading there...
Calitzdorp?
Herolds Bay?
Check out CapeNature and its nature reserves...
Knysna and the Undermilkwood at the foot of the Heads, some of the best breakfasts in the world, and the lagoon...
After that...
If you head up to Graaff-Reinet (Valley of Desolation in the evening and morning for the views and that’s it...)
Then MZ... Tsitsikamma means backtracking, whereas the Knysna-Uniondale-Willowmore Pass is really beautiful (without the fog like I had)... and from there, Graaff-Reinet...
Otherwise, it’s Tsitsikamma then Addo...
I’m not a huge fan of Addo (unfairly?). The new Nyathi camp won’t be open in January... I loved MZ, but it’s not the Kruger, we agree?
Stop in Bloemfontein?
Garden Route OK... the accommodations in the mountains! The others (meh). Watch out for their dodgy hiking plans... but you can also do a lot off-plan from the mountain and on the tarred roads in the park...
From the Garden Route to Johannesburg isn’t too complicated or too long...
Thanks Michel for your feedback on the itinerary!
My head is spinning trying to maximize these 23 days! There are so many possibilities!!!
And now you’ve just added another one: Agulhas NP, which I’d completely overlooked since my initial route was Cape Town/Oudtshoorn via the R62/Plettenberg Bay-Knysna/Tsitsikamma/Addo/MZ/Camdeboo/GG NP in that order.
I do have time to refine this, but I absolutely need to book Addo now since there’s not much accommodation left. I know it won’t be as "wow" as Kruger, but you have to make choices. I really want to visit both parks (Addo and MZ) because they seem so different.
That said, I’m stuck on how many nights to spend at each (these will be the only wildlife reserves on the trip!): 2 nights in Addo, 3 in MZ, the reverse, or maybe 3 nights everywhere?
I’ll adjust the rest based on your answer.
By the way, are 2 nights in Golden Gate enough?
For now, my plan looks like this: 5 nights in Cape Town/1 stopover night before Oudtshoorn/2 nights in Oudtshoorn/2 nights in Plettenberg or Knysna/2 nights in Tsitsikamma/2 or 3 nights in Addo/2 or 3 nights in MZ/1 night near Camdeboo/1 stopover night (Bloemfontein, then)/2 or 3 nights in GG or nearby.
I’m not set on Oudtshoorn, though.
Since it’s not whale season, I skipped the coastal spots (Agulhas, Hermanus, Mossel Bay/De Hoop) to focus on the inland areas….
Sometimes we build up expectations that don’t quite match reality ;))
Thanks a million for your insightful feedback!
malijp
Hi Attila!
For two reasons: elephants (we love elephants😉) and the heat....
And it’s less logical in the itinerary because I also wanted to do Garden Route NP.....
Plus, I’m bringing my sister-in-law, for whom this is her first time in South Africa, and we sold her on the elephants 😏
There you go!
Yes, it's a great itinerary for a second time. For a third, there’ll be others. 😉
Between the deal with your sister-in-law and the kids, no hesitation: 3 nights in Addo and 2 in Mountain Zebra.
Cape Town > Oudtshoorn is an easy five-hour drive. A good lunch break in one of the typical small towns along the way will make it even smoother (at Diesel & Creme in Barrydale, for example—one of those places you find in the USA, Australia, and... here: like a trip around the world).
Yes, Lesotho is easily doable in three days, and it’ll be completely different from bypassing it to the north. Not just for the landscapes but also for the people and their way of life. It’ll add a bit more driving time (about ten hours of tarmac from Maseru > Thaba-Tseka > Mokhotlong > Butha-Buthe if you don’t have a 4x4), but being at the gates of the Kingdom of the Sky and staying in purgatory would be unforgivable. 😇
hi Voyajou and Malijp,
I held back from replying about the "Lesotho" part because I knew you’d cover it;
yeah, skipping it is like staying in purgatory!
Just in case, a nice stop is Morija, 43 km from Maseru at Brigitte’s place!! With a visit to the archives museum showcasing the incredible work done by French missionaries.
https://www.morijaguesthouses.com/index.html
Hi Pose Pose!
KwaZulu-Natal was part of a few stops during our first trip. I know there’s still so much more to discover there, but I’d definitely go back if I ever plan another trip combining Kruger and KwaZulu-Natal—I think they pair really well!
Thanks for the suggestion, though—I *loved* that region!
malijp
Hi Voyajou!
Thanks for your reply to my questions!
I’ve noted your advice: 3 nights in Addo (booked!) and 2 in Mountain Zebra.
I checked out your suggestion for an itinerary via Lesotho. The ‘Kingdom in the Sky’ sounds so tempting (if the country is as beautiful as its name, it’ll be amazing!), but I’ve got a few questions since guides aren’t exactly overflowing with info on the country (there was more on Eswatini).
- Are all the roads on the route you suggested paved? (I don’t think we’ll get a 4x4, though we’re still considering it. Also, which rental company should we go with if we just want a reliable car without camping gear?)
- Is the weather good in January?
- I looked at *Petit Futé* and *Le Routard*, but there’s not much on the part of Lesotho you recommend. What are the must-sees, possible places to stay? The idea is still to enjoy it a bit and not just drive the whole time
One last little question: If I do Cape Town to Oudtshoorn in one go, I’ll save 2 days on my itinerary. Should I add them to Cape Town (I’m staying 5 nights there now, which is 4.5 days on the ground) or to Garden Route NP (4 nights—spread out—in my initial plan)?
Any other suggestions?
Oops, I said *last* question... but I’m so eager to read more of your writing, Voyajou, that I’ll dare to ask: Have you posted any other travel journals since 2025? I devoured all of yours back then!!
Good evening Partir Rester!
Love the link you sent me! It really makes me want to spend some time there!
Need to figure out how to wrap up this heavenly trip!
😛
malijp
You're welcome, Marie!
Brigitte is French, so don’t hesitate to message her if you need info about Lesotho. And feel free to stop by her place—it’s magical! The road from Maseru to Morija is paved, and the track to the guest house is normally paved too.
PS: My grandma was born in Lesotho… a country I love!!!
Half my family is in South Africa—a country I’ve crisscrossed multiple times—but I’ll let Voyajou guide you instead.
Safe travels and happy planning!!! 🙂
Just to let you know, in South Africa, I stayed in an Airbnb with a local host, and it was a really rewarding experience.
The welcome from the locals (both Black and white) was amazing.
Thanks Posepose! By the way, do you have an Airbnb address in Cape Town and the surrounding area?
I'm trying to sort out the nights there by following Michel's advice (Green Point, Sea Point, or Camp's Bay) or a friend's recommendation to stay in Hout Bay to explore the Cape area. For now, I still haven't decided.
I also found what looks like a gem: a small house in the Claremont neighborhood for 100 € per night (for 4 people), but despite the great reviews, I'm wondering if Claremont is a good place to visit Cape Town and the region (accessibility and safety of the neighborhood...).
malijp
Good evening everyone,
I’m still reading up on guidebooks, websites, and the forum to fine-tune my itinerary, and *Le Routard* has me second-guessing: is the Swartberg Pass paved or not? If not, is a 4x4 mandatory? Same question for the Klaarstroom–De Rust section.
On Google Maps, Swartberg Pass and Meiringspoort are marked as closed—permanently?
If so, that’ll really change my plans... and the number of nights in Oudtshoorn since I was planning to do the loop!
Another question I can’t quite wrap my head around: is it better to stay in Cape Town to visit the must-sees (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Robben Island, Bo-Kaap, V&A Waterfront, etc.) and then book a place outside the city for the Cape of Good Hope? Or should I find a single spot in between for 5 days and not move around (for practicality’s sake)?
Since we’ll be changing accommodations a lot later in the trip, I was thinking of staying in one place for 5 nights, but maybe that’s not the best idea... (For example, if I stay outside Cape Town, there might be tons of traffic, and that could ruin my few days in the area!)
Thanks for your patience and advice!
malijp
Are all the roads on the route you're suggesting paved?
Up to Thaba-Tseka and after Mokhotlong, yes. Between the two, I’m not sure about the current status, but if it’s not paved yet, it’s a stabilized road that’s passable without a 4x4. You just need to watch your ground clearance on some slopes.
Is the weather favorable in January?
It’ll be over 20°C during the day, and you might run into a few thunderstorms.
If the route I’m suggesting seems too challenging, you could spend two days in western Lesotho instead. For example, in Morija. But I really like Ramabanta Trading Post, and you could push on to Semonkong (all of that’s paved now) and walk from the village to Maletsunyane Falls (that’ll be your day’s hike ;)).
Oops, I said last question...... but I’m so eager to read more of your writing, Voyajou—I have to ask if you’ve posted any other travel journals since 2025 when I devoured all your notes?!!
So glad you enjoyed my travel notes! Now we’re waiting for yours... 😇
This Oudtshoorn > De Rust > Prince Albert > Swartberg Pass > Oudtshoorn loop is a fantastic idea. It’s easily doable in a day (4 hours of driving). A coffee break at De Rust (Ray's Coffee Shop), lunch in Prince Albert, and back via the pass.
It rained like never before this winter in the area. The Swartberg Pass is open (not paved, but it’s well-maintained gravel passable without a 4x4). However, Meeringspoort (between De Rust and Klaarstroom) is still closed. The road is built through a gorge and shares the bed of a restless river that decided to reclaim the space. The government assures the passage will be restored by December.
For accommodation in Cape Town, you can keep the same place for the duration of your stay. You likely won’t be on the road during rush hours, and that’s not where traffic jams are worst in the area.
Thanks Attila for the info on the Swartberg! I hadn’t imagined snow! I was thinking rockfalls, landslides, river erosion!
The upside this time is that snow melts! 😛
Elephants = Addo for 3 nights
Direct Cape Town is fine... if Voyajou, who’s done this route more than me, says so...
Watch out for speed cameras...
Also watch out for excessive km... 4 hours of driving every day is still 4 hours of driving.
I’m sticking with Calitzdorp over Oudtshoorn.
Camdeboo for one night and MZ for two.
I’m keeping the GG (Garden Route) for me—2 nights if you can snag the mountain accommodation.
For CT...
3 full days on-site lets you do quite a bit...
Maybe save a day by hugging the coast on the way back up... worth considering vs. a full day for Oudtshoorn...
Hout Bay is nice but... it’s a bit out of the way...
Swartberg, as they say...
Lesotho... personally, I’d hesitate (it adds to your driving time).
I forgot...
Knysna instead of Plett...
Undermilkwood...
have you found your carriage?
aroundaboutcars...
at the MZ... if you see buffalo, look for lions...
they’re on the plain just like the rhinos... but they often hide near the mountain edges...
Hi Michel,
The 3 nights in Addo are the only things I’ve already locked in. 🤪 😏
For the rest, I’ve got a rough outline that I tweak every day to see how to optimize it, and I’m taking all the advice you give me. I’ll make a final decision soon, but I still have quite a few things to figure out (like the must-sees at each stop) before I commit.
For Cape Town and the surrounding area, I’ve got 5 nights: I’m torn between staying in CT itself (but it stresses me out—big city in South Africa, maybe unfairly!) or staying on the outskirts (but since I live on an island with traffic jams, I’m worried about wasting too much time in the car). By the way, if I decide to stay in CT itself, should I rent a car right when I arrive, or can I easily get around without one using public transport?
Maybe we can save a day by hugging the coast on the way up... then see how that compares to a full day for Oudtshoorn...
What do you mean by that, Michel? I’m all for splitting the drive to Calitzdorp/Oudtshoorn!
I checked out the Undermilkwood in Knysna that you recommended—are we talking about the Undermilkwood Chalet on The Head? It looks amazing! But is it easy to explore from there? (I’d love to do some hikes—I’ve already seen 2 or 3, but more around Wilderness than Knysna... any you’d recommend?—plus Robberg, etc.)
I’ve noted your and Attila’s preferences for Calitzdorp—is there a particular reason? I looked at the accommodation Attila suggested, and it looks really great. I need to check what half-board includes since the website only lists prices for room-only stays.
For the end of the trip, between Lesotho or Garden Route National Park, I need to consult my travel companions (especially the driver) to decide. Both are tempting, so the driver gets the final say since it’ll add more driving time!
Thanks for the Around About a Car site. There’s plenty of choice.
au MZ... if you see buffalo, look for lions...
they’re out on the plains just like the rhinos... but they often hide near the edges of the mountain..
Yep, I took note of that tip, and I’d already seen in your travel journals that buffalo... can mean lions aren’t far off! Though you still need a good dose of luck!
By the way, I’m thinking of spending a night in Camdeboo to add a third night at MZ—what do you think? Is Camdeboo really worth the detour?
Thanks Attila for this address—it seems like a little paradise (at least for me, since I love nature spots and hiking).
By the way, I’ll need to slow down a bit with the hiking plans because my travel companions might be exhausted from scheduling hikes everywhere!!! 😄
I have a question about the access road, which looks like a gravel road: is it doable with an SUV and without 4x4?
Do you remember the half-board rates (I can’t find them on the site—when I click "book now," it only shows the room-only price for January)?
Wow, all these suggestions look amazing!
I really want to make a detour to Lesotho..... But it seems like it would add a lot of driving in just 3 days, even with RAMABANTAN TP.
Morija seems less far, just as nice I don’t know but their website looks tempting too!
The left-hand driving specialist will decide how brave they feel about extending the route! Verdict in a few days!!!
By the way, there are two options to reach Morija from MZ: Google Maps’ direct version via Wepener, the Van Rooyens Gate border post, and the town of Mafeteng, or going around and passing through Maseru. What’s the best route (without a 4x4)?
So glad you enjoyed my travel notes. Now we’re waiting for yours... 😇
Well, I have no writing talent! My humor is as flat as a daisy (though daisies are pretty!), but I’m very supportive and helpful, and that might just push me to take the plunge and share the beauty of our planet—and South Africa in particular—one day! 😛
What a great idea this loop: Oudtshoorn > De Rust > Prince Albert > Swartberg Pass > Oudtshoorn
I obviously didn’t pull this out of a magic hat! I read it in one of the travel journals on VoyageForum, but I can’t give credit where it’s due since I don’t remember who described it first...
Hopefully, the Meeringspoort section will be repaired by then. If not, I’ll do the round trip Oudtshoorn/Prince Albert/Oudtshoorn, crossing Swartberg Pass both ways! That way, the views will be different ;))
For accommodation in Cape Town, you can keep the same place for the duration of your stay. You probably won’t be on the road during rush hour, and that’s not where traffic jams are worst in the area
What are the rush hours in Cape Town, and what do you mean by:
that’s not where traffic jams are worst in the area
Where are the worst traffic jams usually (since I haven’t booked anything yet and I’m hesitating between something more central or more on the outskirts...)?
Traffic in CT can get tricky during peak hours.
For that reason, Sea Point and Camps Bay are well located.
The red bus is good for exploring the city... for "attractions" like Table Mountain or Lion’s Head, it’s a bit less convenient but doable.
Actually, for me, personal opinion...
There’s CT itself (V&A Waterfront, Long Street, the Castle, Lion’s Head, Signal Hill, Bo-Kaap District 27, etc...)
And around CT... the Peninsula, Boulders Beach, Chapman’s Peak, etc.
Choosing accommodation between these two areas has always let me get around without too much hassle...
4 nights (so -1) in CT, then we follow the coast to...
Mossel Bay, Agulhas (detour)... for an overnight stop, then head up to Calitzdorp.
The lighthouse side of Mossel Bay is really nice, the town itself is okay... you can stretch your legs by leaving a postcard in the box (sailors in the 17th century left letters to be picked up on the way to or from Asia), check out the Dias Museum, the beach... walk around the lighthouse...
You can also stop by the Klipgat Caves, but...
It’s the perfect Undermilkwood... more of a walk than a hike near the sea and Buffelsbaai or on the hill across from the lagoon...
The view of the Heads is amazing, and breakfast at the foot of it is unforgettable.
The Cape Dutch houses on the other side of the lagoon, etc., etc.
My reasoning is that Oudtshoorn isn’t that exciting to me, and I prefer being tucked away at the foot of the escarpment near Calitzdorp.
The Cango Caves and the letterbox aren’t far away...
Hi Michel!
A huge thanks again for your reply and tips!
I ended up booking 5 nights to have 4 full days in the Cape Town area—we won’t run out of things to do and see, especially since I’m craving a great hike there (and with so many options, it’s gonna be tough to pick just one!)!
So now I’ll start looking for our ride, which we’ll rent as soon as we arrive (accommodation booked in the Rondebosch neighborhood).
I’m checking out your suggestions (I’m really sold on Undermilkwood, even if it’s a bit pricier this season compared to my accommodation budget), and two things you wrote caught my attention:
We can also stop by the Klipgat caves, but there...
I didn’t quite get the "but there..." part...
and
the letterbox isn’t far..
Curious to hear your thoughts!
Back to my South African reading!
Malijp
Hi there,
Between Hermanus and Gansbaai, there are the caves... Klipgat caves.
It's not Hollywood, okay?
But it's a very ancient site that proves this part of the world was occupied by Sapiens a long time ago.
Here’s the rough version...
Early Sapiens were around the Great Lakes.
One group headed south to find refuge in Botswana (Okavango).
Then they moved down to the southern coast in this area where the caves are.
After that, they headed back north along this coast...
The "but here’s the thing..." is that the visit isn’t necessarily mind-blowing for everyone... but the area is really nice.
In Mossel Bay... there’s an interesting visit (for me, at least) of a replica of one of Dias’ ships...
And on the beach, there’s a letter box (mailboxes)... not the original one, okay?
Originally, this African tip wasn’t occupied by Europeans... but they could stop there to restock on meat, vegetables, and water... (let’s not forget that in the 16th and 17th centuries, scurvy could kill up to half a crew—thanks to lemons and... sauerkraut for partly solving the problem!).
On the way down, they’d leave letters there.
On the way back, those returning would take them home... and drop off letters to be carried to their final destination (like Java)...
A long, long time ago, I sent postcards from there... and they arrived safely (not in the same way, obviously—I’m not *that* old!).
Thanks Michel for your always very informative replies.
Love the story about the 17th-century post office!
I’ve almost finished my accommodation bookings: we’ve confirmed Lesotho—it’ll be 2 nights in Morija and one at Ramabanta TP before stopping in Clarens or Fouriesburg (just to break up the drive) before heading back to Johannesburg.
Has anyone recently done the route between Mountain Zebra NP and Morija? Which border post should we take (Maseru or Van Rooyens Gate?) Google Maps says Van Rooyens Gate is the shortest…
Another question: to leave Lesotho from Ramabanta, I’d like to take the A1 to Butha-Buthe and exit via Caledonspoort—how many hours of driving should I plan before reaching Clarens?
Thanks for your feedback!
malijp
There’s no point going through Maseru, and it’s more scenic via Van Rooyens. You could also enter further south via Tele Bridge to get to Lesotho faster, but it’s a longer drive and you’ll already have a big day on the road.
You’re choosing the cautious route and prioritizing travel time to leave Lesotho. This itinerary, while less spectacular, isn’t without its charm and will take you a good five or six hours. Clarens is a nice stop.
Have you chosen your vehicle yet? This would probably be the only time you’d need a 4x4, between Morija and Ramabanta Trading Post.
Thanks Voyajou for your feedback!
Van Rooyens then.
You're choosing caution and the longer route to leave Lesotho.
That’s already great for a first time. We’ll have to come back (I’m sure we’ll want to explore more of this beautiful country).
This itinerary, while less spectacular, isn’t without interest and will take you a good five or six hours.
Wow, really... (Google Maps lied to me haha!!😛) At least I’m warned!
This would be the moment—probably the only one—to have a 4x4 between Morija and Ramabanta Trading Post.
Oh no, I hadn’t planned for that!!! Isn’t the road paved on the A5 between Morija and Ramabanta TP?
I haven’t rented the car yet; I’m looking now, but 4x4s are really expensive with a huge excess (at least the ones I’ve seen so far...). Renting a 4x4 just for this small section... If it’s not doable in an SUV, I’ll settle for 2 nights in Morija and 2 nights in Clarens instead...!!! But it’s a shame...
Sorry
Yes, the road between your two planned stops is paved when heading up toward Maseru. I was talking about one of those dizzying tracks that GMaps doesn’t know about, which connects "directly" from Morija to Ramabanta TP. An SUV wouldn’t make it, but you can easily take the A5—this "shortcut" isn’t worth renting a 4x4 for.
Skipping Ramabanta Trading Post won’t really change your driving time to Clarens but will save you the trip there (about two hours). Morija is nice but less immersive than Ramabanta.
And if you had to spend two days in Clarens, it wouldn’t be a hardship. 😉
A faster route I really like is to reach Clarens by going around Lesotho to the north after exiting via Maseru (through Ficksburg).
I’m jumping in here...
If you’re stopping in Clarens anyway, wouldn’t it be possible to stay at Golden Gate... in the mountain chalets...
The small road isn’t complicated, and the view from the chalets is....
Phew! So glad to read that the A5 is doable in an SUV—I really want to visit Maletsunyane Falls.
Morija is nice but less immersive than Ramabanta.
So maybe it’d be better to spend one night in Morija when arriving in Lesotho and two nights at Ramabanta TP, then... What do you think?
A faster route I really like is heading to Clarens by skirting Lesotho to the north after leaving via Maseru (through Ficksburg)
We’ll have to choose between 5/6 hours of driving through Lesotho or the option you suggested above, which I’d also spotted on Google Maps (I think we’ll decide on the spot depending on fatigue, mood, and weather! By the way, do you know what the LSA is anticipating for El Niño’s impact on the country?)
A thousand thanks for sharing (and these thanks go to everyone who takes the time to reply and share their thoughts and experiences!!!)
malijp
Noted, Michel!
I’d already spotted those accommodations in one of your travel journals (yours or Attila’s or both) while planning my first trip, when I was torn between Royal Natal NP and Golden Gate NP. Royal Natal won, so we didn’t go there. I wanted to make up for it on this trip (initially, I was going to bypass Lesotho for that), but Voyajou, Attila, and Partirrester planted the Lesotho seed in my mind, and I feel like I’ll have to come back someday to take the time to hike in Golden Gate.
So even for just a one-night stopover, you’d book the Golden Gate chalets?
Malijp
So maybe it’d be better to spend one night in Morija when arriving in Lesotho and two nights at Ramabanta TP, then... What do you think?
That’s what I’d do.
Great call going all the way to Semonkong. After the falls 😉, to recover, the Semonkong Lodge has a solid restaurant right by the Maletsunyane River.
Thanks for the great tip!
For the falls, do we need to book an excursion at Rambanta TP, or can we do it on our own? (Just so you know, I won’t be riding a horse—I’d much rather hike on my own two feet!!! Moo, no, I’m not scared of riding a horse… not at all!😛 I just love the effort, that’s all!)
The Le Bihan Falls site (that was its original name) is freely accessible... and easy to reach.
You can get there via a moderate track heading north from Semonkong. In summer, unless El Niño acts up, it should be passable in an SUV. It’s not long, well-maintained, and fairly busy.
It’s also possible to go on foot (or by horse—how heavenly! 😇) from the Semonkong Lodge.
Oh no, I’m not scared to get on a horse at all... not one bit! 😛 I just love the effort, that’s all!)
In this case, wouldn’t the real effort be getting there by horse? 😛
That’s a categorical answer! Don’t hesitate then.... I checked the SANParks website and there are several camps. Which one are the chalets you’re talking about in?
Thanks for your reply!
Malijp
I’m starting to plan a trip to Tanzania + Zanzibar in August 2027 for 2 to 3 weeks with my partner.
I’ve never been there before and I’d love some advice, especially for Tanzania where we’re planning to do several safaris in the North.
Specifically:
Do you recommend using a travel agency to organize the trip, or are guidebooks and internet recommendations enough?
If you’ve used a local agency (rather than one in France), which one?
Would you recommend hiring a guide for the entire stay in Tanzania, or is it better to travel independently except in the parks where I’ve read that guides are mandatory?
If you’ve used a local agency (rather than one in France), which one and at what price?
Have you had any bad surprises (hidden fees, inexperienced guide, poor vehicle condition)?
Looking forward to reading your tips! 🙂
Thanks in advance
Thirty years ago, I traveled to Zanzibar (Tanzania) with my children. Since I’ve since started a new family, I took the opportunity of a trip to Kenya to bring my new family along: my wife, who’s Kenyan, and my 10-year-old daughter.
Zanzibar has really changed in 30 years.
It’s become the island of taxes.
It all starts upon arrival: I think it’s the only country in the world, besides the visa, where Zanzibar insurance (and no other) is mandatory—it costs 40 €. If you didn’t purchase it before arriving, good luck getting it: the IT systems are unreliable. With a bit of luck, it’ll take at least an hour to process! And of course, this insurance is useless—if you get sick, it’s recommended to use your home country’s insurance because if you use Zanzibar’s, your national insurance won’t cover you anymore.
I wanted to show my daughter the red colobus monkey, which is endemic to Zanzibar. I paid for a tour that was supposed to be all-inclusive. First, we visited a spice farm, where a farm guide took charge of us—meaning commissions were involved, of course! The tour was very good and informative, though. When we arrived at Jenzhi Park (the colobus park), the guide told us he "forgot" there was an entrance fee (50$).
Aware of the system, I decided to book an Ocean Blue tour through the Zanzibar Tourism Office. After two hours of driving, we stopped at a beach—and were left there. No boat was ready to take us. Since my wife speaks Swahili (the language in Zanzibar), after an hour, a captain with his own boat agreed to take us along with his family.
Another attempt. The main attraction in Zanzibar (besides the city) is Changuu, the Prison Island. You have to take a motorboat and pay the captain, which is normal.
But in Zanzibar, to even get on a boat, you first have to pay a tax! Once we arrived at the island, it started all over again! Thirty years ago, access was free, and the entire island (about 1 km²) was open. Today, there’s a small office, and you have to pay a hefty fee to enter. But enter where? A paved path leads to about 15% of the island—the rest is off-limits. In total, I paid 100 € for my wife, daughter, and myself just to visit a tiny portion of the island! Avoid this!
For the rest of our stay, we stayed at a 5-star hotel with golf, horseback riding, tennis courts, evening concerts, etc.—undeniably high-level comfort. One last thing: if you want to rent a car, it’s affordable and useful for exploring the island’s diverse landscapes, but there are speed cameras at every corner on the main roads. The fine is supposedly 100 $, and it’s hard not to get one!
I told you: Zanzibar, the land of taxes. I used to think my country, Belgium, was the tax champion—I’ve found something even better!
I’m thinking (thanks to some tips from forum members 😉) of taking this route to get to the Cederberg.
Apparently, the road was damaged by the May rains, and traffic is still slow there.
Has anyone taken this route recently?
If not, is one direction (toward or from the Cederberg) more scenic than the other?
In Nov./Dec. 2022, I went on a safari in the region and we suffered from the extreme temperatures caused by the "El Niño" phenomenon in the Indian Ocean at that time. On top of the extreme heat, there can be torrential rains, flooding, etc., which have led to disasters with casualties.
Hi everyone!
I’m still planning my Cape Town to Johannesburg trip in January 2027.
I saw a documentary about the San people in Namibia, and the same day, I stumbled upon the Lonely Planet page about !Kwah Ttu.
I checked out their website to learn more, including Michel’s travel journal about it. I’m really keen to go.
So, I’m thinking of dedicating:
- either 1 day out of the 4.5 I have in Cape Town...
- or making a detour to !Kwah Ttu on the day I leave Cape Town for Montagu, instead of visiting Franschhoek and its Saturday market...
To the VFers who’ve already been: is it really worth spending a day there?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Malijp
We're heading to South Africa for a month with 5 adults.
We'd like to rent a vehicle that can accommodate 5 people and all our luggage.
We're starting in Cape Town and ending in Johannesburg.
What vehicle would you recommend?
EDITH
Hi there,
I’m planning a gorilla trek in Bwindi, Uganda. I’m torn between the classic option (1 hour with the gorillas) and the habituation trek (4 hours with the gorillas but a more expensive permit). Has anyone done the habituation trek? Both? If so, I’d love to hear your feedback (including on the difficulty).
Thanks
I’ve read some travel journals here but I still have a question.
We’re heading to Uganda next February. The gorilla permits are booked, and the flight tickets are sorted too.
My question is about the chimpanzee trek. I’d love to know whether it’s better to book the habituation experience (4 hours) or the standard trek (1 hour).
The price difference isn’t huge, but I keep wondering and I’d hate to miss out on a great experience.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
We're now just 5 weeks away from our trip to South Africa 🙂 and *so* excited to explore (just a tiny bit of) this amazing country.
I need to buy some binoculars but have no idea which model to choose. I don’t really know what to look for (and I don’t want to spend too much).
Thanks in advance to anyone who can give me some tips!
We just got back from ten days in Tanzania. We were lucky enough to be guided by Gishaman. Always in a great mood, a good driver, and an excellent guide. Thanks to him, we not only saw the Big Five in one day but also loads of other animals. He works for the local agency Blit Safaris, which provided excellent support throughout our trip. Highly recommended!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!