De retour de 11 jours de voyage au Cameroun (du 13 au 24 novembre 2010), voici quelques infos pratiques pour ceux qui souhaitent visiter ce magnifique pays.
Je reste à votre disposition si vous avez des questions précises pour préparer votre voyage au Cameroun.
ARGENT - CHANGE
- Je suis arrivé un samedi soir à l'aéroport de Douala (20h30), tous les bureaux de change étaient fermés ! Mais si vous traînez un peu dans le hall, on vous proposera de changer vos euros en francs CFA : le type m'a montré sa carte officielle et le taux de change était quasiment conforme au taux officiel, soit 65.500 FCFA pour 100 € : c'est même le taux le plus avantageux que j'ai eu !.
- Dans les villes moyennes, ce n'est pas toujours facile de changer de l'argent : ainsi à Limbé, les banques refusaient le change (le jour où j'y étais) car elles avaient trop de stocks d'euros. En revanche, pas de pb pour changer dans les bureaux de change "express exchange", présents partout mais ils prennent 2 % de commission (pour 100 €, ils vous donnent 64.600 F).
Pensez à garder toujours de la petite monnaie (pièces de 100 F, 500 F et billets de 1000 ou 2000 F) pour les petites dépenses, car les chauffeurs de taxi ou commerçants n'ont souvent pas la monnaie si vous sortez un billet de 5000 ou 10.000 F. On perd parfois beaucoup de temps pour ces histoires d'appoint. Et si un Camerounais vous dit "je vais vous rembourser", ça veut dire "je vais vous rendre la monnaie". Ca peut surprendre au début !
- Evidemment presque tout se marchande (courses en taxi, achats de souvenir...) mais c'est un pays vraiment bon marché.
Par exemple, dans les hôtels plutôt routard, je payais la chambre entre 6.000 et 12.000 F (soit entre 9 et 18 €).
A Douala, on peut avoir un très bon hôtel pour à peine 30 € (le Foyer du Marin).
En bus, vous paierez par exemple 2.000 F (3 €) pour le trajet Douala - Kribi qui dure 2h30. Pour le trajet Bafoussam - Douala (presque 300 km), c'est en moyenne 4.000 F (6 €).
SECURITE - CORRUPTION
Je n'ai eu aucun souci de vol ou d'agression. Il faut bien sûr rester vigilant, surtout le soir dans les grandes villes.
Le seul souci que j'ai eu, c'est avec un policier ripoux et alcoolisé à Kribi : il est venu dans un restau le soir me demander mes papiers et me racketter, sous prétexte que je n'avais pas sur moi mon carnet de vaccination (il était à l'hôtel à 100 mètres de là. La discussion a duré plus d'une demi-heure, le policier devenait menaçant et agressif et m'a demandé 2000 F (soit 3 €) pour me laisser tranquille.
CONTACTS AVEC LES CAMEROUNAIS
Contacts très faciles et sympas. On se fait souvent interpeller ("hé, le blanc !" ou "white man" en région anglophobe) mais ce n'est pas pesant. Rien à voir par exemple avec le harcèlement dans certains quartiers de Dakar au Sénégal.
Discussions souvent bien animées et colorées dans les transports en commun.
J'ai aussi trouvé les gens très fiables (pour des rendez-vous fixés avec des chauffeurs de taxi par exemple).
MON ITINERAIRE
- DOUALA : je n’y ai passé qu’une journée (au retour). Ca n’a pas un grand intérêt touristique (ville polluée, circulation difficile…) mais il y a quand même quelques monuments à voir, notamment dans les quartiers d’Akwa (la cathédrale, quelques églises), de Bonanjo et Bonapriso (marché artisanal et marché aux fleurs). Contacts plutôt sympas en journée.
Un très bon hôtel : le Foyer du Marin, dans le quartier d’Akwa. Compter 29.000 FCFA pour une chambre individuelle. Agréable jardin avec piscine et restaurant tout à fait correct, avec du choix sur la carte.
- KRIBI : de magnifiques plages sur plusieurs km, avec sable blanc et cocotiers. Aller voir les chutes de la Lobé à 7 km au sud (en moto-taxi, comptez entre 500 et 1000 F l’aller simple, selon votre capacité de négociation). Attention aux prix proposés par les piroguiers, plutôt élevés (ils proposent des excursions sur le fleuve Lobé ou de vous amener voir la cascade de plus près, ce qui vaut quand même le coup).
Hôtel : j’ai opté pour l’hôtel Panoramique, qui est dans le centre ville. Assez basique. Chambres au rez-de-chaussée à 6000 F (à peine 10 €) décrépies. Attention, à l’étage les chambres sont mieux mais avec des coupures d’eau fréquentes ( pb de pression). Si vous voulez du confort et un standard plus élevé, mieux vaut opter pour un hôtel en bord de mer, mais vous serez assez loin du centre (parfois 3-4 km selon l’établissement que vous choisissez).
- AU SUD DE KRIBI : excursion très sympa jusqu’au village d’Ebobjé à une cinquantaine de km de Kribi, par la piste entourée de forêt tropicale. Ebodjé est un petit village de pêcheurs, tranquille, avec des plages bordées de végétation luxuriante. Il n’y avait absolument aucun touriste lorsque j’y suis allé.
- LIMBE : je recommande vivement. Région anglophone, accueil très sympa. Plages de sable noir (volcanique) à quelques km de la ville.
Hôtel : j’ai vraiment apprécié le Victoria Guest House, en centre-ville mais entouré de verdure, calme, avec des chambres propres et à des prix très compétitifs (j’ai payé 12.000 F pour une chambre simple, soit environ 18 €).
Depuis Limbé, pas mal de choses à voir le long de la côte (coulée de lave du Mont Cameroun, plages… je suis allé jusqu’au village d’Idenau, à environ 25 km à l’Ouest, où se retrouvent des pêcheurs de tout le golfe de Guinée. Vous pourrez y manger de délicieux poissons à des prix imbattables). Pas de pb pour négocier avec un taxi ou une moto-taxi pour sortir de Limbe (ca m’a coûté 4000 F en moto pour presque une demi-journée, soit 6 € environ. C’est plus cher en taxi voiture.
A Limbé même, la visite du jardin botanique ne me paraît pas indispensable. En revanche, j’ai passé de bons moments à flâner sur la plage et observer les pêcheurs débarquer, vider leurs filets et vendre le poisson. Contacts faciles et sympas.
- LE MONT CAMEROUN : je l’ai approché via Buéa, mais je n’ai pas voulu faire de rando, car on est tout le temps dans la brume. A part l’aspect sportif, l’intérêt panoramique semble donc limité.
- KUMBA : joli lac de cratère à 3-4 km de la ville (lac de Barombi). La piste pour y aller est assez délicate en voiture (mon taxi s’est embourbé). Vous pouvez vous faire déposer à l’entrée de la piste et faire le reste à pied (comptez 20 petites minutes de marche jusqu’au lac, ensuite il y a un sentier qui longe le lac, au milieu d’une végétation bien dense).
De Kumba, si vous voulez rejoindre la route de Bafoussam, aller à la gare routière pour Tombel. Prendre un taxi-brousse (vous serez entassés dans une voiture pour un trajet d’1h30 sur une piste défoncée jusqu’à Tombel, puis prendre une moto-taxi pour rejoindre Loum, point d’intersection avec la route Douala – Bafoussam, où vous trouverez des bus ou minibus pour monter vers le nord).
- NKONGSAMBA : c’est la ville la plus proche des chutes d’Ekom Nkam, spectaculaires (cascade de 802 m de haut).
Hôtel : j’ai dormi au Yodi Palace, qui se trouve en dehors de la ville, au sud, juste à côté de la route Douala – Bafoussam. C’est calme, pas cher (7000 F la chambre simple), en revanche, rien à faire le soir, c’est le noir complet dans ce quartier éloigné de la ville.
Pour se rendre aux chutes d’Ekom (à 15 km environ), j’ai négocié un taxi pour 5000 F l’aller-retour.
- REGION DE BAFOUSSAM : culturellement très intéressante, avec de nombreuses chefferies. J'ai visité celle de Bafoussam, celle de Bandjoun, à 20 km au sud (la plus intéressante) et celle de Bangangté, à une cinquante de km au sud de Bafoussam. A Bafoussam, vous pouvez aussi visiter l'usine de café de l'UCCAO. S'adresser d'abord au siège de l'entreprise, dans le centre-ville, pour obtenir l'autorisation du directeur commercial. Très bon accueil sur place.
Hôtel : j'avais au départ opté pour l'hôtel-résidence Le Sare, mais il est trop excentré (au nord de la ville, dans un quartier désert le soir. J'ai finalement dormi à l'hôtel Le Président, qui est correct sans plus. Il a l'avantage d'être bien placé et bon marché (chambre à partir de 12000 F, eau chaude lorsqu'il n'y a pas de coupure d'eau, télé dans les chambres avec chaînes françaises...).
- FOUMBAN : je recommande vivement ! Visite très intéressante du palais et de son musée sur les arts et l'histoire du peuple Bamoun (avec un peu de chance, vous pourrez même voir le Sultan, ce qui a été mon cas), marché coloré, artisanat...
Hôtel : je suis allé à l'hôtel Beauregard, bien placé en centre ville et très bon marché. En revanche, pas d'eau dans les salles de bain (douche au sceau) et coupures d'électricité fréquentes.
Merci de ton compte rendu retour; assez d'accord sur pas mal de choses;
Limbé est sympa mais aller dormir à 20kms au seam beach; plages de sable noir déserte; super.
Tu confirmes pour Kribi et notamment les prix excessifs pratiqués par les piroguiers à la lobé.
Douala; même impression; sans grand intérêt; je préfère largement Yaoundé.
Dommage que tu n'es pas fait le nord qui est un autre monde; par contre tu as fait l'ouest que je connais pas et qui semble sympa.
Tu confirmes aussi pour une certaine difficulté à faire le change; surtout si on compare à d'autres pays.
Je suis moins optimiste pour les contacts avec certains Camerounais mais je ne re rentrerai pas dans la polémique.
En 3 semaines, un certain nombre de choses furent pesantes.
Dommage que tu sois resté que 11 jours, ça a du être un peu la course, non?
Cordialement🙂
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
Bonjour Peyrou
Permets-moi de te féliciter pour ton beau récit. Très peu de gens visitent le Cameroun et presque personne n'en parle. Je te remercie de ta parfaite objectivité et de ton audace de vivre totalement à la Camerounaise. Je suppose que tu es un vrai barroudeur et c'est dommage que tu n'aies pu y rester que 11 jours.
Il y a beaucoup d'informations pour les durs à cuire prêts à voyager en symbiose complète comme toi avec la population. Je remarque que tu indiques que l'accueil est sympa, mais je suis surpris que tu n'évoques pas les Camerounaises dont le penchant pour les Européens ne peut t'avoir échappé. Leur gentillesse et leur audace est incomparable et unique en Afrique.
On peut dire que tout c'est bien passé grâce à ta débrouillardise et à ton sens de la négociation que tu as même exercé avec un policier. Chapeau!
Pour répondre à ta question sur les Camerounaises, effectivement, leur audace ne m'a pas échappé !
A Kribi et Limbe, elles me disaient presque systématiquement "bonjour" ou "bonsoir" dans la rue.
Parfois les propositions étaient explicites : "je peux vous accompagner si vous voulez"... Mais pas de harcèlement non plus...
Pour être sincère, je suis resté sage. Etant marié et je n'avais pas envie de tomber dans la facilité, malgré les tentations et la beauté de beaucoup de Camerounaises. J'ai simplement invité 2 filles à dîner avec moi un soir et j'ai appris par ce biais plein de choses sur le pays.
Dans les transports en commun, on apprend aussi beaucoup sur le Cameroun, en discutant avec son voisin ou en tendant l'oreille.
Pour répondre au message précédent, c'est vrai que 11 jours, c'est peu... mais je n'ai jamais trop attendu pour les bus.
Je me souviens lors de voyage au Mali ou au Sénégal avoir attendu parfois 2 ou 3 heures pour qu'un bus se remplisse... au Cameroun, je n'ai jamais eu plus d'une heure et demi d'attente.
Par ailleurs, certains sites se visitent rapidement : une heure et demi suffit pour la chefferie de Bandjoun ou Bangangté, donc on peut aisément les grouper dans la même journée (elles se situent à 30 km de distance).
Merci d'avoir répondu à ma réponse. Surtout que la réponse est remarquable.
Pardon d'avoir posé une question aussi personnelle, mais je dois avouer que je n'ai pas eu ta force de caractère car à 70 ans j'ai été marié 5 fois dont une gabonaise et 2 camerounaises. Je précise que ce fut successif et non simultané. Résultat, je suis ruiné et cela me gène pour voir ma nouvelle fiancée qui est une jolie femme de Yaoundé. Ouf!!
Pourtant je ne suis pas un obsédé et j'aime le Cameroun parce que c'est un pays magnifique et francophone où l'on peut se dorer la couenne en plein hiver à Kribi, même quand on n'est pas un baroudeur. Ce que je n'ai jamais été.
Bob
de Kribi-mer.com et vacances-camerounaises.fr
bonjour,
Je suis très heureux de lire ce que tu as écris sur l'accueil que les camerounais t'ont réservé ici. C'est très gentil de le dire ici car beaucoup de personnes ne cessent de parler de ce pays de façon négative
Merci d'avoir parlé de mon pays de façon objective. Tu n'es pas tombé dans l'angelisme sur je peux qualifier d'irresponsable et non plus dans un "négaivisme" exagéré comme certains
C'est vrai que si vous abordez les camerounais de façon honnête, sans les prendre de haut, ils vous accordent un accueil honnête. Les camerounais sont en général accuillant et hospitaliers. Comme partout, il y a de mauvais éleves
Attention Peyrou, le Cameroun est un virus, on y va une fois, on a envie d'y retourner car, 11 jours, c'est trop court. Nous les camerounais du pays et d'ailleurs, seront à nouveau heureux de vous revoir
De retour de trois semaines au Cameroun
Merci beaucoup pour ce magnifique carnet de voyage. Cela me rappelle de beaux souvenirs.
Je suis allé au Cameroun à trois reprises, les deux premieres fois en 2008 et en 2009 dans le cadre d'une association. A chaque voyage j'y suis resté deux semaines. J'ai séjourné à DOUALA et à YAOUNDE.
J'y suis retourné en mars 2010 mais cette fois j'ai séjourné à YOKADOUMA durant trois semaines. Cette ville est située à l'est du pays tout près de la frontière avec la république du Centre Afrique.
Je suis infirmier jeune retraité. De ce fait je suis allé travailler dans un centre de santé tenu par des religieuses. J’ai choisi ce moyen, ce qui m’a facilité les conditions d’hébergement.
Il m'a fallu deux jours depuis Yaoundé, n'ayant que de la piste le deuxième jour. Seuls les camions et 4x4 peuvent l'utiliser. Une amie m’avait annoncé que les habitants de cette ville ne connaissaient pas » l’odeur du goudron…. » Je m’en suis bien rendu compte notamment par les douleurs lombaires occasionnées….
J’ai eu l’occasion de rencontrer des hommes et des femmes très accueillants, d’une très grande gentillesse. Je suis allé dans plusieurs villages et leur étonnement était grand de voir un blanc pour la première fois. Les enfants s’approchaient de moi pour toucher ma peau et mes cheveux…
Je suis allé dans la forêt et j’ai eu l’occasion de rencontrer de pygmés. Je n’ai jamais vu si grande misère.
La rencontre avec les camerounais est toujours riche d’expérience et de partages. J’ai aimé leur chaleur, leur désir d’échanges…
Les jeunes camerounaises sont toujours restées à une « certaine distance »… du fait que j’étais logé chez des religieuses…. Et pourtant je n’ai rien d’une religieux…
Moi aussi je suis venu une fois puis deux puis trois fois au Cameroun, je rêve d’y retourner un jour.
Peux tu preciser comment s'est passé l'obtention de ton visa d'entrée .
La fois ou j ai essayé de retourner au Cameroun en tant que voyageur individuel et non pas dans un cadre professionnel , on me demandait une attestation de reservation d'hotel que je n ai jamais
reçue des hotels que j avais contacté à Yaoundé .
Hotels n ayant rien à voir avec le Mont Fébé dont les tarifs etaient trop élevés .
Il te faut une attestation reçue par fax ou mail (scanné) de réservation d'au moins la 1ère nuit d'hôtel.
Si tu ne connais personne sur place, le plus simple est de réserver une nuit dans un hôtel de catégorie moyenne à supérieure; souvent seul à même de répondre efficacement à ce type de demande.
Bon faut relativiser, ce n'est que pour une nuit😉
cdt
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
A mon premier séjour j'ai réservé une chambre d'hôtel à Douala. J'ai reçu de leur part une attestation de séjour pour la durée de mon voyage et de ce fait j'ai pu obtenir mon visa sans problème.
Bonnes fêtes.
Michel
Toujours autant de plaisir à te lire ( Afrique , Asie ) : je n avais pas obtenu de confirmation et du coup était allé au Bénin et au Togo .
Je l ai raconté à une jeune camerounaise de VF qui nous avait posé une question sur le tourisme dans son pays .
Comme précisé plus haut, une réservation pour une seule nuit d'hôtel suffit pour avoir le visa.
C'est ce que j'ai fait, avec l'hôtel Foyer du Marin à Douala.
Ils m'ont envoyé le certificat par mail, en doc joint, 3 jours après ma demande (j'ai dû les relancer).
Je n'ai pas eu besoin de payer en avance par carte bancaire pour la réservation.
Donc tu peux éventuellement annuler la réservation une fois le certificat reçu, si tu préfères opter pour un hôtel à bas coût.
Mais je sais que beaucoup d'hôtels de moyenne gamme sont réticents à envoyer des certificats de réservation, car ils ont eu des déconvenues avec des clients qui ne venaient pas.
Un pti bonjour et de bonne fêtes de fin d année a tous via le senegal ou je suis actuellement et particulièrement a ceux qui aime le Cameroun qui est un tres beau pays ;😉
Herve
C'est bien d'être au Sénégal quand la France est toute gelée!
Moi, c'est sur, j'aimerais être à Kribi, chez notre ami Philippe!
Tous mes voeux et à nous rencontrer peut-être un jour sous le soleil des Tropiques!
Camerounaisement vôtre.
Moi je vis depuis 4 mois maintenant à Yaoundé, et j'ai assez aimé ton regard sur le Cameroun.... que je partage! 2 commentaires cependant: "le blanc" après 4 mois, ça gave un peu... Et je redescends du Mt Cameroun, j'en ai encore des courbatures, mais c'est fabuleux. En effet avec l'Harmattan, pas de vue sur Malabo ou Limbé, mais ciel globalement dégagé sur le sommet et Buéa....
Si tu reviens, un conseil, fais le!
Joyeuses fêtes
Afrique de l'Ouest et du Centre › Cameroun · 17 replies
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Viens de passer 18 jours au Camer et je dois dire que j'ai passé un séjour superbe je ne connaissait pas le camer et c'est génial je n'ai jamais subit…
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I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
Thanks for your feedback, tips, etc.
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing:
23/07: Arrival in Santiago
24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days)
30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days)
05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days)
11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days)
15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike?
What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car?
Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike.
There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time.
Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised).
Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day.
Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer.
Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well).
But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough).
Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like.
Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed.
Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great.
Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival!
I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy!
Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM.
Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha.
Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out.
Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo).
Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun.
Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule.
I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s.
If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options?
For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have.
Thanks so much for your help!
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands:
Arrival in Praia on July 8th
Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão.
We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much).
How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough?
Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot?
Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions!
Valéry
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe?
I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share:
- Your favorite places to visit and hikes
- Accommodations that charmed you
- Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet)
- Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao)
- Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights
- Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista
- Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao:
I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)...
For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Hello,
We’re planning a trip to São Vicente and Santo Antão in January.
We’re a couple (ages 51 and 57).
My husband is really into hiking. As for me, I’m not at my best right now—I’ve just recovered from a long illness and am still on medication that exhausts me and causes a lot of pain, so I won’t be able to keep up with very "physical" hikes.
That said, I still enjoy walking in nature.
We’re looking for advice on where we could stay. A place where my husband can go hiking while I take shorter walks. But also somewhere I can relax in nature, maybe go for a swim if possible, and enjoy local life—markets, music, etc.
Boat trips would be a great bonus for us.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Virginie