Il faut toujours un permis (220 000 dong) pour aller à Dong Van et Meo Vac, mais maintenant, plus besoin d'aller à l'immigration à Ha Giang ; le permis s'achète au poste de police de Dong Van si on arrive par Ha Giang ou de Meo Vac si on arrive par l'est.
Certaines personnes ont parfois demandé s'il fallait un permis juste pour coucher à Ha Giang ou à Bao Lac sans aller à Dong Van/Meo Vac. La réponse est "Non".
Et la région est toujours aussi fantastique 🙂
Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!
Ta "copine " de l'immigration de Ha Giang ( l'affreuse mégère) en charge de delivrer les permis ne va plus faire la gueule .Fini ces longs nez toujours préssés qui vous sautent dessus des 8 heures du matin .
Je ne la connais pas , j'avais eu affaire à une petite jeune , sympa et efficace .
Et coté hotellerie , coupures d'electricité sur Dong Van des ameliorations ?
L'affreuse mégère, c'était il y a longtemps ; elle avait disparu depuis un bout de temps !. D'après le copain qui était à DV la semaine dernière et m'a reconfirmé ce que l'hôtel de Ha Giang m'avait déjà dit à propos du permis, au poste de police de Dong Van, c'est un petit jeune sympa qui parle un peu anglais
Je n'ai jamais eu de coupure d'électricité quand j'étais à DV, donc je ne peux pas trop répondre.
Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!
Les coupures de courant à Dong Van j'ai testé😉...en mai 2012
Bon, en vacances ce n'est pas bien grave et puis tout le monde et très bien organisé.
A peine la panne arrivée que sorte les bougies pour les uns, les lampes pour les autres, l’hôtel en avait de très "jolies", en forme de grenouilles la tête surmontée d'un halogène...ravissant!!
Les générateurs reprennent vite le relais et tournent une partie de la nuit.
Les équipes de "réparation" ont ouvré toute la nuit, le transfo étant au pied de l’hôtel nous avons bien suivi la dite réparation.
Au petit matin tout est rentré dans l'ordre😉.
Aux dires de notre guide qui fait ce circuit tt les 15 jours ces pannes sont fréquentes.
Pour bien aimer un pays il faut le manger, le boire et l’entendre chanter. (Michel Déon)
Nous venons d arriver a Ha Giang et sommes passés a l office de l immigration (je n avais pas vu ce poste). Tout était fermer (peut être trop tard). Du coup est il encore possible de le prendre a Ha Giang ?
Il n'est plus nécessaire d'acheter le permis à Ha Giang à l'heure actuelle. Depuis une année, les autorités provinciales permettent aux hôtels de Dong Van-Meo Vac de faire cette autorisation spéciale dans leur commune. Quand vous arrivez à l'hôtel, les réceptionistes le font automatiquement par obligation et vous payez 270'000 VND.
Quan Ba est vraiment beau et depuis son belvédère (Cổng Trời = la porte du ciel) la vue est surprenant. Également pour le marché ethnique de Quan Ba qui est un des plus authentiques de ce district. Aux alentours, il y a beaucoup de villages ethniques que vous pouvez visiter comme Lung Tam des Hmong blancs qui se situe après Quan Ba. Si vous voulez des précisions je peux vous fournir.
Oui, pour Quan Ba vous êtes obligé de prendre ce permis qui est compris pour toute la région de Ha Giang et il vous faut aller à l'office de l'immigration (une sorte de police étrangère comme chez nous). Ils ouvrent les portes à 13h30.
Que ce soit par l'hôtel ou en allant soi-même à la police, il faut un permis. La seule différence est qu'avant il fallait l'acheter à Ha Giang, maintenant on peut l'avoir à Dong Van SI on ne couche pas en route (ou à Meo Vac si on arrive par l'est)
Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!
Oui, Jacques, ceci est mis en place depuis seulement une année pour Dong Van et Meo Vac. Par contre pas encore à Quan Ba, donc notre voyageur est obligé de faire la demande de permis à Ha Giang pour pouvoir passer la nuit dans ce dernier district.
Bonjour,
En complément de ce qui a déjà été dit, vous trouverez toutes les infos pour vous y retrouver et faciliter la chose en allant lire mon article sur le Permis pour la région de Dong Van et Meo Vac.
Entre autre, vous y retrouverez la localisation sur une carte de la ville de Ha Giang du bureau de l'immigration, perso j'ai mis une bonne heure à le trouver...
Merci Larsay pour tes infos sur l'obtention à Dong Van et Meo Vac. Si j'avais su, cela aurait bien simplifié les choses ! Les loueurs de motos à Hanoï ne sont apparemment pas au courant...
Bonjour Benoit.Info très utile. Merci de l'avoir partagée !
Dong Van et ses environs sont superbes et méritent largement une visite.
Un des must du Vietnam et un de nos plus beaux souvenirs en 5 mois en Asie.
Jean Michel.
Pour info supplémentaire, si, quand vous etes à Dong Van, vous faites la superbe excursion sur le poste-frontière de LUNG CU, son belvédère d'où on a une vue extra de toute la région Chine comprise et ses villages lolo, il faut prendre votre passeport et le permis car il faut pointer à la police locale avant de monter au Belvédère ; vous tournez à droite au pied du Belvédère, le poste est sur votre droite en face des marches, et ensuite une petite route grimpe presque jusqu'en haut du pic.
Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!
Pour compléter les informations de ce poste et pour une de mes amies😉, pouvez vous me dire, nous dire, si:
Le permis doit être pris, quand on se trouve au Pan Hou par exemple ou un autre hôtel dans un périmètre de 40/50 km d'Ha Giang et que l'on souhaite naviguer dans les alentours avec ou sans agence?
Merci par avance de vos réponses et bonne journée.
Fabienne
Pour bien aimer un pays il faut le manger, le boire et l’entendre chanter. (Michel Déon)
Le permis n'est que pour la région au nord de Ha Giang, donc pour Quang Ba, Yen Minh, Dong Van et Meo Vac, pas entre le Pan Hou et HG ni à HG même. Si vous allez par example au joli lac qui est à l'ouest de HG, pas besoin de permis ; par contre, si vous allez à Quang Ba, il le faut.
Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!
Oui c'est ça ; la route (en cul-de-sac donc retour par la même route ; il y a une marchande de soupe au bout face au lac) est jolie et le lac aussi, mais ça n'est pas Babe ! Une balade d'une demi-journée à peine si on veut absolument visiter les alentours proches ded HG
Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!
Hey everyone!
New to the forum, but not so new to Asia 😄
I’m Nico, from Switzerland, currently based in Bangkok. I love taking my motorcycle out to get lost in the mountains and small villages of Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and more. I’ve been roaming around this area for a good fifteen years now, racking up quite a few kilometers—especially in northern Vietnam.
This time, I finally decided to tackle the Mae Hong Son Loop, clockwise. I’d been to Pai several times before, but oddly enough, I’d never done the full loop.
So, I’ll try to give you a little recap here, day by day, with the roads, stops, places worth checking out… and those that didn’t quite blow my mind 😅
I also filmed the trip, so I’ll post the corresponding video at the end of each day if that’s okay. If it’s not allowed here, just let me know, and I’ll remove them without any issue.
DAY 1 — Chiang Mai → Doi Inthanon → Mae Chaem → Khun Yuam
I left Chiang Mai after renting a Honda ADV 160 from Pop Motorbike. Not exactly an Africa Twin, but for what I had planned, it was more than enough.
Quick hotel note: I stayed at the Lanna Thaphae Hotel before leaving. Around 30 € per night, super well-located, and probably one of the most comfortable beds I’ve ever slept in. A crucial detail for any motorcycle road trip, obviously.
The plan for the day was pretty straightforward:
Head toward Doi Inthanon… and see what happens.
Flawless Swiss organization.
First stop along the way at Wachirathan Waterfall. A really nice waterfall, very easy to access, but don’t expect to channel your inner Indiana Jones—it’s crowded, touristy, and swimming isn’t allowed. Still, it’s a pretty stop along the way.
Next, up to Doi Inthanon.
The road climbs steeply, and my little 160cc started to realize that carrying my 80 kg to Thailand’s highest point probably wasn’t part of its youthful dreams. I was maxing out at 34 km/h in some spots.
But it made it. Good little bike.
The summit is nice—the forest is beautiful, and it’s cool—but I have to admit, it didn’t completely wow me. Glad I went, but not necessarily the highlight of the day for me.
Because then comes Route 1192.
And that’s *much* more my thing: small mountain roads, beautiful scenery, hardly any traffic… the kind of road where I usually start taking way too many unnecessary detours just because a little side road “looks fun.”
Stopped in Mae Chaem for a bite to eat, then headed to Khun Yuam to finish the day.
A little over 200 km in total.
Khun Yuam is… quiet.
*Very* quiet. 😅
A cute little market, a couple of cafés/restaurants, and zero chance of ending up in a club until 4 AM. But after a day on the bike, it was perfect.
Stayed at the Mit Khun Yuam Hotel, around 20 € for a small but very decent room.
All in all, a solid first day and a pretty relaxed start to the loop. Part of this leg is mostly about getting out of Chiang Mai and really diving into the mountains, in my opinion.
Because for me, the really interesting stuff starts over the next two days…
And a few slightly questionable route decisions will also make an appearance 😅
If anyone’s planning the Mae Hong Son Loop, feel free to ask your questions—I’d be happy to answer!
I also filmed this first day, so for those who’d rather see the roads and landscapes than read my rambling, here’s Day 1 😊
DAY 1 VIDEO
I’ll post the next part in the coming days with Day 2: Khun Yuam → Mae Surin → Mae Hong Son.
And that’s where it starts getting *really* fun. 😉
That’s all for now! Looking forward to contributing as much as I can to the forum!
I’d like to ride from Mahajanga to Morondava, sticking as close to the coast as possible—using roads and tracks—in September 2026. If you’ve got any suggestions, let me know! 😉
hi
I’m planning a 10-month trip to South America, and I’m looking into options for shipping a motorcycle to Buenos Aires by air or sea. If anyone has any info, thanks in advance!
christian
Hello everyone.
I'm looking for campsites around BOLZANO (South Tyrol) for early September.
I'll be on my motorcycle with a small tent.
I've noticed that some campsites have exorbitant prices.
If you've traveled through the Dolomites by motorcycle or otherwise and camped there, I'd love any tips on places and prices where I can stay for one night or several.
Thanks to all of you, and happy travels.
I’m starting to think about a trip that’s really close to my heart: Algeria by motorcycle, specifically the southern part of the country. It’d be for January 2025, and I’ve got two main questions:
Is it possible for an individual on a motorcycle to travel freely, outside of any organized tour, or does the regulation require some kind of supervision in the Algerian Sahara region?
Is the Hoggar massif accessible by road or by (rideable) tracks?
Beyond the official recommendations, I’m really looking for your firsthand experiences.
Thanks so much for your answers, and sorry if my questions are a bit newbie!
I just realized I’ve been registered on VoyageForum since... March 28, 2012 😊. Yet, I’ve barely participated until now.
August 1, 2026, will mark a somewhat special milestone: 5 years on the road.
We left Switzerland on August 1, 2021 with a simple idea: let chance decide our direction. We placed a bottle of wine on a world map, spun it... and it chose our first destination.
A year later, when we arrived in Morocco, we faced a new choice: continue toward Africa or head to Asia. This time, a tarot card game made the decision. Since then, we’ve tried to keep this journey as open to the unexpected as possible.
Today, that adds up to about 120,000 km, 46 countries, and over 1,800 days on the road—mostly by motorcycle, but also by sailboat, train, bus, hitchhiking, or on foot when adventure calls.
Our guiding thread isn’t just the motorcycle, but service exchanges. Instead of simply passing through countries, we try to stop regularly to lend a hand to the people we meet. So far, that’s about 600 days of volunteering.
Over the years, we’ve:
renovated a house in Croatia
made earth bricks in the Moroccan desert
helped sail a boat through the Greek islands
looked after houses, dogs, horses, a camel... and lots of other animals
worked at a street art festival in Morocco
created videos for local associations and projects
worked the grape harvest on the Tibetan plateau
been accredited as "media" for the World Nomad Games in Central Asia
Some of the moments that have stuck with us the most include six months in China, a night spent on the Great Wall, the Pamir Highway, the Silk Road, three months in Taiwan, and the incredible encounters in the mountains of Central Asia.
We travel on Falkor, our lucky dragon—a 2014 BMW F800GS that’s been with us since the start and is starting to have some great stories of its own.
While we share our adventure on Instagram, Polarsteps, and YouTube, that’s not why we’re here. The forum’s rules about promotion are clear, and I totally get them. If I’m finally taking the time to write, it’s mostly because after five years on the road, I thought our experience might be useful to other travelers.
Happy to chat about:
preparing for a long motorcycle trip
visas and borders
the Silk Road and Central Asia
riding in China (with or without a motorcycle)
volunteering and service exchanges while traveling
gear, daily life on the road... or just the unexpected moments that make long-term travel so special
Looking forward to swapping stories and hearing about your adventures too! 😊 Greetings from Thailand, and happy to chat! ✌️
Hello, I’m retired and planning a roughly 3-week motorcycle trip (1200gs). The dates aren’t set in stone yet, and everything’s open to discussion—I’m pretty flexible with the planning.
hi
planning to ride through Rajasthan on a motorcycle in January 2027 and I’d love to hear about the road conditions.
I’ll be riding with a buddy on a Royal Enfield that I’ll rent in Delhi.
Thanks for your tips!
hi there
I’d like to ride the RN 12 by motorcycle in September.
I’d love to know the main challenges—I ride a 300cc and do enduro in France.
Thanks for your tips!
I’m planning a motorcycle road trip to Armenia and Georgia in September 2026 or May 2027. I’m looking for one or more riders (male or female) who’d like to explore these countries with me.
Along the way, we’ll visit Cappadocia, the capitals Yerevan, Tbilisi, Sofia, Skopje, and other cities—we can finalize the route and roadbook later.
This trip requires experience with long motorcycle journeys, as we’ll cover around 7,000 km over 5 or 6 weeks (or more, depending on sightseeing and time spent).
I don’t expect dozens of applicants, since motorcycle riders are few and far between on this forum, but I’m putting this out there anyway.
Hi, I’d like to take a 15-day "break" to get away from the surrounding hustle and bustle.
Why not explore the Peloponnese!
I’m not particularly drawn to museums, ruins, or monuments.
I want to experience local life—small villages, seaside spots, beaches, and the interior if the landscapes are extraordinary.
Ideally, coming from Athens, I’d take a bus or train to get as close as possible to a starting point, then rent a scooter (125cc) to explore by taking secondary roads or even coastal paths. I’d stay in 2-3 places for a few days each to discover their surroundings.
Do a loop.
What do you think would be the ideal itinerary?
From Athens, the best option would be to take either a flight or a bus to Kalamata. Rent a scooter and head either west or east. Is there a tertiary road (very lightly trafficked) or a path where I can ride slowly, take it easy, and enjoy the scenery without being bothered by traffic? I’d like to go all the way to Monemvasia, still hugging the coast. I need to find a way to avoid returning to Kalamata to drop off the scooter and catch a flight—maybe a small town where the train stops so I can head back to Athens.
Thanks in advance for your tips.
I want to rent an off-road style motorcycle to get around the coast during my trip to Ecuador. I’m only finding options in Quito. Do you have any suggestions for me?
Hi there,
I’m planning a sidecar trip to South America for 4 or 5 months at the end of this year.
I’m looking for info on shipping my vehicle by sea—possibly to Uruguay or another destination, as I haven’t finalized anything yet.
How do you get visas for the countries I’ll be crossing: Uruguay, Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, and Chile? Are they e-Visas, obtained at the border, or through embassies?
Where can I get vehicle insurance?
Lastly, if any bikers want to join us (my partner and me), we’re open to that possibility too.
Patrick
I’ve got 15 days off in June and I’m pretty undecided about where to go for a motorcycle road trip. Two strong desires are pulling me in different directions: Corsica or Norway.
Corsica has been a dream of mine for a long time: legendary roads, stunning landscapes, a unique vibe, and the perfect mix of sea and mountains. At the same time, I’m wondering if 2 weeks might be *too much* for Corsica—risking feeling like I’ve seen it all too quickly, especially on a bike.
Since I also have an extra week free in May, I could use that specifically for Corsica. Maybe splitting it into two trips would make more sense? If so, which routes or regions would be the most interesting to plan for a 7-day trip?
On the other hand, Norway is *super* appealing. The landscapes look incredible, totally different from anything I’ve experienced, and it’d be a real “wow” trip. I know 15 days is still short for such a vast country. Getting all the way to the North Cape seems pretty much impossible in that time, but I’m curious about what realistic routes could be planned.
So I’m wondering:
Is it better to save Norway for next year, take 3 weeks off, and do it *properly*?
Or are 15 days enough for a first amazing taste of the country?
I’d love to hear about your experiences—whether it’s Corsica (ideal duration, routes) or Norway (what’s realistic in 2 weeks on a bike).
Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
Hello,
I'm thinking of buying a used small motorcycle to travel around the country for a month and a half.
I've done this in other countries without putting the registration in my name—is that possible in Guinea given the apparently frequent checks, or do I have to go through the paperwork?
Thanks.
Hello,
My dream is to ride Route 66 by motorcycle. I have a disability—while I’m not in a wheelchair, my walking mobility is reduced.
The ideal scenario would be to have a motorcycle driver and ride as their passenger on an organized trip.
Are there any guides or services like this offered by travel agencies?
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
Hello,
I’ve got a plan with a friend to go on a motorcycle road trip in 2028 or 2029, starting in Santiago de Chile and ending in Ushuaia, for about a month.
Has anyone done a trip like this before, and what’s the best time of year?
I’ve heard there can be quite a bit of wind depending on the season.
Thanks for any tips!
Cheers,
PA
I'm seriously considering heading to Nepal to do some nice motorcycle loops... my goal is also to do the Kailash Yatra round trip from Kathmandu, in a small group with a guide, in May '26... but here's the thing—I'm solo! So if you're up for sharing a similar adventure, hit me up... Cheers, Frankoys
It's all in the title: I'm heading to Krabi soon and want to rent a scooter for a few weeks, but after reading comments about all kinds of scams, I'm reaching out to ask where and how (read: *the right way*) to rent one.
Thanks for your tips and advice.
Hello everyone! Like every year, a winter migration is on the horizon (revised plan): this time, it’ll be Dakar, or even Abidjan, via Morocco, Mauritania, and Senegal.
Looking for an experienced motorcyclist or pillion rider—small build preferred—on a GSA 1250 with a comfy seat and luggage setup, available from early November to late December 2025. I’d like to plan the trip together (important to me) to make sure we’re on the same wavelength.
Don’t hesitate to get in touch!
Didier
Looking for travel companions to ride from France to Senegal by motorcycle.
I’m Paul, 37, and I’ve already done a bit of riding in Morocco.
For now, I’m solo, riding a 1998 SUZUKI DR 650 with some basic gear to keep things smooth. I’ll have a tent so we can do a few nights under the stars.
We’ll need to coordinate departure dates—"ideally in November."
I’m currently checking out routes to take. Any tips would be welcome! :)
I’m heading to Vietnam and Laos with a buddy next week for a month.
We’re thinking of renting motorbikes, especially to do the Ha Giang Loop. We don’t have an international license, just our Belgian one. Is that enough? If not, is it risky?
In November, we’re planning to do the Ha Giang loop and the RC4 by motorbike without a guide. 😎
We’re looking for a decent place to stay/rent in Ha Giang.
If anyone has any info, we’d be really interested.
Hello! We’re planning a motorcycle trip that will include a visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau in June 2026.
We’re unsure (still debating) whether we should stay at a hotel on-site and get to the memorial with an Uber (leaving our bikes at the hotel) and book a guided tour, or base ourselves in Kraków and take a tour that includes transport.
One thing’s for sure—we’d prefer a guide in French since we don’t speak English 😅.
Could you share your experiences or advice?
I understand we need to book online rather than on-site.
Thanks in advance for your replies!
Hello,
Next October we’re planning to ride the Ruta de la Plata by motorcycle—a historic Spanish route that runs from Gijón to Seville, also known as the N630.
Has anyone here already ridden it?
Unfortunately, I’m worried that parts of the N630 may have disappeared or merged with the A66 motorway, forcing us to ride long stretches of highway, which we’d rather avoid.
Thanks in advance for any tips or details about this route!