Kulma Pass (Tadjikistan - Chine)

Hi there, After a long absence, I’m back on this forum where I used to post under the username NealMorse (mostly about off-the-beaten-path spots in the American West...).

I’m planning a trip to Uzbekistan—details still up in the air (8–10 days)—but I’d love to combine it with a stop in Kazakhstan at Mangystau (5–7 days).

One of my main reasons for traveling is to seek out and photograph deserts, especially dramatic landscapes. Mangystau fits the bill perfectly!

Has anyone here got any tips for this trip, especially how to connect the two countries? Thanks in advance

Les informations récentes sur ce pays sont rares. Je lance donc ce post en plus du carnet de voyage pour essayer d'y remédier.

- Quelle compagnie depuis l'Europe ?

Turkish Airlines me semble une excellente solution. Le prix est très correct ( un peu plus de 500 euros), la correspondance pas trop longue, le confort en vol pas mal (grand choix de films), les avions sont récents. En plus, le prix inclut d'office 30 kilos de bagages ce qui est parfait pour qui souhaite camper.

Le bémol : les prix délirants à l'aéroport d'Istanbul.

- L'aéroport de Bishkek

L'aéroport est en pleine reconstruction. C'est le bazar. Il y a des vendeurs de carte sim à l'arrivée mais pas de change ni distributeur dans le hall de retrait des bagages. Il y en a du côté des départs ce qui implique de sortir puis re-rentrer dans l'état actuel des choses.

Personnellement, j'avais précommandé un VTC à mon hôtel pour le transfert en ville . ( Prix divers selon le standing de l'hôtel - 1200 soms pour le mien )

Il y a des taxis et un bus.

- Formalités d'entrée

Pas de visa pour les français pour un séjour de 30 jours maximum.

- La monnaie

C'est le som et la conversion est facile, il suffit de diviser par 100...

On peut s'en procurer en changeant des euros ( dollars inutiles ) ou en retirant au distributeur. Certains DAB prennent des frais. Ceux de la Mbank et de Optimabank sont sans frais.

Le maximum par retrait est généralement de 20000 soms.

Billets de 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, 50 et 20 soms.

Pièces : 10, 5, 3 et 1

-Payer

Le paiement par carte est possible dans les supermarchés type Globus, dans certains restaurants, dans les stations services des grandes chaînes ( Bishkek petroleum, Partner Neft, Red Petroleum) , dans certains hôtels, à l'entrée des parcs nationaux, aux péages, etc

Mais ça ne fonctionne pas toujours.

Donc avoir toujours de l'argent liquide avec soi !

Si la carte marche tant mieux, sinon retour à l'ancien temps des liasses de billets.

- Coût de la vie

Vraiment pas cher ( essence , restaurant bon marché même de standing, hôtel, souvenirs, fruits, légumes, eau, pain...) Un lagman par exemple ne coûte que 3,20 euros, la réparation d'une crevaison 3,5 euros, un lavage complet d'une heure d'un 4x4 crasseux 6 euros, un lavage d'un gros sac de linge 3 euros , un litre d'essence à 95 octane 0,86 euros...

Plutôt cher : les guesthouses et les repas dans les guesthouses. C'est le rapport qualité-prix qui est mauvais . J'ai eu payé 40 euros pour une chambre pas terrible avec salle d'eau à partager très basique alors qu'une double avec clim salle de bain frigo dans un hôtel d'un endroit pas touristique coûtait 20 euros... Les repas en guesthouse sont les moins bons mangés et souvent les plus chers payés . En plus, c'est très léger, il ne faut pas avoir marché toute la journée avant !

La location de voiture est aussi assez coûteuse.( 70 dollars par jour le RAV4 pour ma part)

Bref, à 2 , hors logement et location de voiture, nous avons dépensé en moyenne 45 euros par jour ( courses, restaurants, dîners en guesthouse, souvenirs, activités payantes, essence)

Le voyage nous est revenu à 2200 euros par personne tout compris pour 3 semaines sur place. En gros 1/4 l'avion, 1/4 la voiture, 1/4 l'hébergement, 1/4 le reste.

- Se déplacer

J'ai croisé des cyclistes, des motards, des personnes en voiture de location, des personnes venues d'Europe avec leur propre véhicule et des personnes utilisant les transports en commun et les taxis.

Personnellement, j'ai choisi la location de voiture.

Si vous ne comptez pas effectuer des randonnées au long cours ou des treks à cheval sur plusieurs jours, c'est une bonne option pour découvrir le pays.

Chaque loueur de voiture possède sa liste de pistes interdites . À vérifier que le parcours prévu est autorisé ! Ne pas penser outrepasser ce point, les véhicules sont équipés de traceurs GPS...

Pour conduire, le permis international est requis.

La police et les radars sont très présents, il vaut mieux bien respecter la signalisation ( feux de jour, ceinture de sécurité, 40 à 60 en zone habitée, 90 sur routes, tolérance zéro sur l'alcool).

Les locaux ont une manière particulière de conduire et cette manière s'avère dangereuse sur les grands axes ( ils doublent n'importe comment...). Comme en Grèce, en Afrique du Sud, à Malte..., une deux voies est une trois voies. On se pousse sur le côté pour être doublé ou pour que celui d'en face puisse doubler.

Sans voiture ( au moins pseudo-4x4), vous ne pourrez pas aller partout. Ce pays est une destination nature or la nature n'est pas toujours desservie par les transports en commun.

Si un spot se trouve non loin d'une route parfait, le bus ira quasi à sa porte. Sinon, il vous faudra prendre les services d'une agence ou payer un taxi.

Ceux qui aiment le vélo devront affronter des étapes au dénivelé copieux et de la poussière. Je leur conseille d'éviter au plus les grandes routes, la circulation ne joue pas en faveur de leur sécurité...

Ceux qui aiment la moto mangeront aussi pas mal de poussière et devront bien se renseigner sur les possibilités d'approvisionnement en essence sur leur parcours (Ce conseil est également valable pour les véhicules roulant au 95).

Il y a une pompe desservant du 95 à Kazarman et à Gulcha.

Les vélos et motos auront l'avantage sur les voitures même 4x4 de pouvoir emprunter certaines pistes très reculées inaccessibles aux autres types de locomotion ( piétons et chevaux pourront aussi évidemment les prendre !)

Attention, certains secteurs nécessitent un permis ( secteurs frontaliers) . Se renseigner bien en amont, les formalités ne prennent pas une heure ni même une journée !

Attention, Google Maps est complètement fausse ( Elle indique des routes qui n'existent pas, fait passer par des pistes difficiles au lieu de suivre le goudron, etc) ! Il est donc nécessaire de télécharger Maps me à l'avance. Cette application est beaucoup plus fiable pour ce pays, fonctionne sans les données mobiles et est plutôt pratiques pour se repérer en randonnée.

Je rappelle ici que le cheval, c'est comme le vélo... Si on n'est pas habitué, si on n'est pas naturellement rembourré au bon endroit, en peu de temps, l'arrière train souffre !

Bref, bien y réfléchir avant de se lancer dans un périple de plusieurs jours !

Enfin, ce pays est le royaume des travaux... Les chinois se sont emparés du marché pour que leurs camions puissent mieux circuler et bitument à tout va. (Bonne nouvelle, le tronçon Kazarman - Och via le tunnel est enfin ouvert en été même si la route n'est pas tout à fait finie)

- Se nourrir

J'avais des préjugés sur la nourriture kirghize.

J'avais à la fois tort et raison.

Les supermarchés n'offrent pas grand chose d'attirant particulièrement pour confectionner des pique-niques. C'est du qui nourrit pas cher, plein de cochonneries et non du gastronomique. Si vous suivez Yuka, je pense que vous restez à la diète durant tout votre séjour. Amener quelques pâtés, quelques saucissons est une bonne idée... Du lyophilisé pour certaines soirées aussi...

Les dîners en guesthouse se résument en l'éternelle salade concombres tomates, une soupe et un plat léger de nouilles ou de riz où on cherche la viande... Une viande généralement coriace et indéterminée. Du boeuf ? Le pain est rassis et il n'y a pas de dessert ni de fruits.

Les petits déjeuners tournent toujours autour de l'oeuf voire du porridge... La confiture généralement maison est bonne.

Le thé est la boisson numéro un suivie du kompot ( une boisson préparée à base de fruits ), du coca et du fanta.

Si vous voulez du vrai café, emportez le votre, il y en a très très rarement.

En revanche, on mange bien au restaurant. Du lagman ( nouilles maison, légumes, épices et viande généralement de boeuf), des aubergines croustillantes, du kuurdak ( une sorte de navarin d'agneau accompagné de pommes de terre), des brochettes, du plov (riz pilaf aux oignons carottes et viande), de la truite saumonée... Pour le dessert, là aussi nada !

Et l'alcool ?

Il y en a dans tous les magasins Globus : bière, vin, alcools forts et il est possible de consommer ses achats dans certaines guesthouses (Selon l'intolérance religieuse du propriétaire). Il y en a dans certains restaurants ( Bishkek, Karakol, Osh...).

La spécialité qui tue ?

Les boulettes blanches de lait fermenté ou kurut. Si vous trouvez qu'un camembert au lait cru, c'est fort, passez votre chemin ! Là on est plus sur le vieux crottin de chèvre bien sec et piquant.

- Se loger

Dans les lieux reculés, il vaut mieux regarder quelques jours à l'avance sur Booking les disponibilités que de se pointer au dernier moment la bouche en cœur.

Booking et Airbnb n'offre qu'une petite partie de ce qui existe.

Pas forcément en guesthouse mais surtout en logements destinés aux locaux ( tourisme, voyage d'affaires).

Ces logements seront généralement plus confortables. Il existe même une offre un peu haut de gamme.

Il est donc nécessaire d'éplucher Google Maps ou Yandex Maps ou ... Ces hébergements se trouvent généralement sur Instagram et WhatsApp est bien utile pour les réserver !

Pour les prix, c'est un peu la loterie. Pour le confort aussi. De 20 à 80 euros pour une double généralement avec salle de bain privative. ( En moyenne, vers 40). Ces tarifs concernent la moyenne gamme.

Sinon, ce pays est le paradis du camping sauvage. En camion aménagé, en tente de toit, en tente au sol... Il y a de magnifiques spots un peu partout !

- Climat

Je pensais qu'il ferait assez frais/froid en altitude.

J'ai emporté trop de vêtements chauds...

Si vous n'effectuez pas de treks en altitude, si vous ne dormez pas sous la tente, inutile de vous encombrer avec une multitude de vêtements d'hiver.

Une bonne polaire, un vêtement de pluie coupe-vent, un sous vêtement technique seront suffisants.

Il n'a fait réellement froid que le soir au lac Song Kul et à Tash Rabat et les yourtes sont équipées de couettes épaisses comme d'un poêle.

Ailleurs, la température a varié de 15 à 30.

Bref, j'ai plus utilisé la climatisation que le chauffage ! ( Difficile de rouler fenêtres ouvertes à moins de vouloir être couvert de poussière en un rien de temps...)

- Communiquer

J'ai acheté une esim préalablement au voyage avec un forfait de données pour le Kirghizistan (réseau Beeline). Parfait pour pouvoir communiquer via WhatsApp dès l'arrivée à l'aéroport mais ce réseau est loin d'être le meilleur au Kirghizistan.

Nous avons ensuite pris une carte sim physique avec un abonnement illimité d'un mois ( moins de 4 euros carte sim comprise ) dans un magasin Mega du centre ville . Ce réseau est de bien meilleure qualité et on capte dans toutes les villes et la plupart des villages. Dans les cols généralement aussi.

Pour se faire comprendre sur place, il est nécessaire de télécharger Google Trad avec les options français, khirgize, russe et anglais.

Très utile pour traduire les menus, les pancartes, échanger avec les kirghizes.

Les logeurs et autres acteurs du tourisme dégaineront d'ailleurs d'eux-mêmes leur smartphone pour échanger avec les non-russophones.

Les policiers aussi...

- Religion

Il existe une certaine différence entre le nord et le sud ouest du pays.

Au nord, c'est un peu comme l'Albanie. On est musulman par culture mais plus vraiment par religion.

Au sud ouest, l'islam radical progresse. Les mosquées sont plus nombreuses, plus imposantes. Les hommes sont plus barbus, les femmes plus voilées.

Pour le voyageur, la religion ne pose aucun problème à part l'absence quasi totale de porc.

Il y a bien du saucisson russe mais à lire la liste des ingrédients, ça se rapproche plus d'un ticket vers le cancer que d'une saucisse sèche auvergnate...



Vous trouverez ici le récit détaillé du voyage effectué.

Hi there, 🙂

I’m thinking of taking a trip to these two countries in 2026 (late spring to early summer).

I’d arrive in Almaty and leave from Bishkek, and I’d be driving myself.

I plan to spend 1 week in Kazakhstan and 2 in Kyrgyzstan. The itinerary isn’t set yet.

My preliminary questions are about formalities, hassle levels, and the car.

From what I understand, no visa is needed, the passport must be valid for 6 months after entry, and there’s no longer a requirement to register with the authorities at each stop. In short, once you’re in, no administrative headaches.

Except for permits needed to drive in certain regions?

---/---

About crossing between the two countries:

- On foot - In a rental car

Quick? Easy?

---/---

Are both countries safe? (Meaning you don’t have to stay on guard all the time.) Are the cops corrupt? (A little, a lot, passionately, not at all?)

---/---

Is it better to rent a car for both countries or rent a vehicle in each country?

A 4x4 or something else?

Is accommodation plentiful enough that I can skip a rooftop tent, or is it better to rent a 4x4 with one?

I’ll definitely have more questions later...😉

Thanks for your answers !

Hi there, I wanted to book a train between these two cities, but there’s no availability at the times I need. Could you tell me if it’s possible to find a taxi to connect these two cities, or book a shared taxi for the four of us? Thanks for your help

Hi everyone, My partner and I are planning a 3-week trip to Kazakhstan in August and would love your input to refine our itinerary. We’re thinking of spending the first part of the trip in the Almaty region, including the following spots:

Singing Barkhan (singing dune)

Altyn-Emel National Park

Charyn Canyon National Park

Ozora Ushchel'ya Reki Kensu (Kensu River Valley lakes)

possibly Ile-Alatau National Park

After that, we’d like to explore the Mangystau region around Aktau, with highlights like:

Airakty

Tuzbair Salt Lake

Kyzylkup ("Tiramisu")

Gora Bokty

Bozzhyra

Three Brothers Peaks

We’re planning to rent a 4x4 in each region and have a few questions:

Could you recommend any reliable 4x4 rental companies in both the Almaty and Aktau/Mangystau regions?

I’ve read that the Mangystau region can get extremely hot in August. Do you think it’s better to start with Almaty and finish with Aktau to hopefully have milder temperatures (less extreme😛)? For us, doing the reverse would be simpler in terms of international flights, the domestic flight, and it’d also be significantly cheaper.

Regarding the places listed above, do you think there are any must-see spots we should add, or conversely, any sites that aren’t worth the detour?

More generally, do you have any practical tips for a 3-week trip to Kazakhstan in August (road conditions, fuel availability, reservations, weather, safety, etc.)?

Thanks so much for your feedback and advice! P.S.: We’re used to traveling independently and driving 4x4s in sometimes challenging conditions (Namibia, Tanzania, Bolivia—South Lipez, Chile, etc.), and we’re also experienced hikers, used to self-sufficient treks (Patagonia, Huayhuash, Three Peaks in Nepal, among others). We’re just mentioning this to give you an idea of our level of self-sufficiency for this kind of trip.

Estonians have become real pests at the Narva border control.

EER is the Estonian public radio and television service. They have a website, err.ee, with a section in Russian. The other day, on 26.06.2026, in Narva, a Swedish citizen was asked if she had any foreign currency. She mentioned $1,800 USD and 4,400 RUB. However, she was searched, and 21,000 SEK were found in her underwear (!) Here’s what the article says: "They eventually discovered 21,000 Swedish kronor" Maybe the stash seemed suspicious... She tried to backpedal, meaning to return to Estonia with the Swedish kronor, but was fined 280 €:

https://rus.err.ee/1610037940/tamozhenniki-v-narve-oshtrafovali-grazhdanku-shvecii-pytavshujusja-pronesti-v-nizhnem-bele-krony

Earlier this year, on 10.03.2026, a German citizen had 1,820 € found in the lining of her coat. She was denied entry and also fined 480 €.

https://rus.err.ee/1609962977/grazhdanka-germanii-pytalas-provezti-nalichnye-cherez-granicu-v-narve-no-byla-oshtrafovana

Bottom line: if you need to carry cash to exchange, only take USD—and make sure it’s brand new...

Since last year, the unification of the Russian visa with Belarus has been in effect. For reference, EU citizens haven’t needed a visa for Belarus for two years. However, it wasn’t possible to travel to Russia. Only Belarusian and Russian citizens could move freely within the union.

With the unified system, if you enter one of the two countries with a visa from either, you can now travel between them freely.

In the case of a Russian visa, it must be a paper visa glued into your passport—not an electronic visa.

This opens up the possibility of traveling to Russia from Lithuania via Minsk, for example, starting from Vilnius.

It also allows for travel circuits that would otherwise be difficult, despite the proximity of the cities.

So, I’m leaving on June 12th for Vilnius. A one-hour flight for around thirty euros with a carry-on bag, and from Vilnius Airport, there’s a bus to Minsk. My planned route for now is Vilnius-Minsk-Smolensk-Vitebsk-Polotsk-Pskov-Riga.



This crosses the Belarus-Russia border three times: from Minsk to Smolensk, then from Smolensk to Vitebsk, and finally from Polotsk to Pskov.

The region of this itinerary was, a thousand years ago, essentially that of the Krivichs, a local Slavic political entity. The term comes from "blood," *krew* in Polish, *krov* in Russian—basically "blood brothers." In Latvian, the word for Russians is *krievu*, by the way. Historically, the region corresponds to some of the old Russian principalities. Later, what marks Belarusian regions in general is, after the Great Schism of 1054, the division between Catholic and Orthodox zones, particularly as the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth expanded and contracted. In architecture, this corresponds to variations in Baroque styles, for example.

Vitebsk is known in France as the birthplace of Chagall. Born Russian, he first trained at the art school in Vitebsk, which was also attended by Malevich and Lissitzky, before completing his studies in Saint Petersburg, then moving to Berlin and later Paris. In Paris, Chagall met Cendrars, who had spent three years in Russia before and spoke enough Russian to help the newcomer get by a bit.

Back to the practical travel aspects: a local Pskov newspaper mentions that the Russian and Belarusian governments have a project for a Pskov-Polotsk train line. Previously, there were also plans for lines between Veliky Luki and Vitebsk, and Polotsk. A recently launched railway is Smolensk-Vitebsk, shown in white on the map, with projected lines in blue. https://pln-pskov.ru/society/583817.html https://pln-pskov.ru/society/578335.html

These will likely be "Hirondelle"—that is, *Lastochka*—the fast, spacious regional trains in Russia. Currently, all of this is done by bus, so the train is a very appealing and comfortable option. We’ll see how it goes.

Hello,

Summer 2026 hasn’t even arrived yet, and I’m already thinking about summer 2027! We’re a family with two kids, who will be 9.5 and 4.5 years old next summer (turning 5 at the end of October 2027, actually). We’d love to spend 19 nights in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan—a part of the world that’s completely new to us. We enjoy traveling, do it often, and the kids are used to it (though we still need a bit of organization and comfort!). Here’s the rough outline of our itinerary: Day 1 - Arrival in Tashkent (ideally in the late afternoon). Head to the train station (by taxi?) to take the overnight sleeper train to Urgench (1 night). Day 2 - Khiva (2 nights): Taxi transfer from the station to the city. Visit Itchan Kala, the walls, and sunset. Day 4 - Head to Bukhara (3 nights) by train (about 6 hours). Visit the historic center, domes, and workshops. Day 7 - On to Samarkand (2 nights), but this time with a private driver. Visit Registan, the necropolis, and local crafts. Day 9 - Head to Osh (1 night) in Kyrgyzstan with the private driver, who’ll drop us at the border. Long transition day (including border crossing). If it’s not too late, visit Osh’s market (otherwise, the next morning). Day 10 - Pick up our rental car (4x4 without a driver this time) and drive to Toktogul (2 nights) and the Suusamyr Valley. Day 12 - Head to the Kochkor region (350 km - 4 nights): Tash Rabat, Song-Kul Lake (yurt stay), and Aigliers. Day 16 - Depart for Karakol/Issyk-Kul (250 km - 4 nights): Jeti-Oguz, Altyn Arashan, beaches, and hot springs. Day 20: Fly home. TOTAL = 19 nights What do you think? Budget-wise:

Flight tickets: 3000 € Uzbekistan logistics (accommodation ideally with a pool for the kids and vehicle): 1600 € Kyrgyzstan logistics (accommodation and 4x4 vehicle like a Pajero/Land Cruiser): 1600 € Living & food: 800 € TOTAL: 7000 €

Does this seem reasonable? Not overestimated or underestimated? Thanks for any feedback or tips from your own experiences.

Hi there,

I’ve never bought a SIM card abroad or even used prepaid cards in France...

So I’m wondering how it all works?

You buy a SIM card and pop it into your phone. Okay, so far so good... 😏

But after that?

I can’t find the price of prepaid cards or how they work with MegaCom.

If someone could give me a step-by-step guide... 😊

Thanks! 🙂

Hi there! 🙂

I’m not planning to bring all my meals for the 3 weeks of travel, but I’d like to spice up my picnic lunches and a few dinners in this country that’s not exactly known for its cuisine...

I’ve seen that fruits and vegetables are easy to find. Bread is also no problem.

I’m a bit unsure about the local cheese, but I’ll manage.

Actually, it’s what I’d put in my sandwiches that I’d like to pack: cured sausage, pâtés.

Are these foods allowed through customs?

Also, I’m thinking that bringing 3-4 freeze-dried meals could be a good option. I’ve never bought any before. Which brands are the most flavorful?

I’ve also noticed that real coffee is rare. (Meaning Kyrgyz people drink Nescafé. Sacrilege!) Can I easily find coffee there to make my own?

Finally, which supermarket chain is the best? (Meaning the one with the most variety and, above all, quality!)

Last question: where can I buy a gas stove in Bishkek? (I’ve heard that local gas canisters aren’t compatible with the stove I already own)

Thanks!

I was lucky enough to spend two stays in Tajikistan between October and November 2025. I met Fayziddin, who’s a French-speaking guide and very knowledgeable—he really knows how to share his love for his country and his valley. He’ll welcome you to his village and, in the future, to a hostel that’s currently under construction. I can’t recommend him enough!

Hi there, We’re planning to explore Uzbekistan this summer (with the weather constraints that come with it). Our itinerary includes the three classic cities plus a few side trips here and there. We still have one week left that we’d like to dedicate to hiking. We were thinking of heading to Kyrgyzstan, but I’m open to other suggestions if we stay in Uzbekistan. Thanks!

Hi everyone!

I wanted to share my experience from the trip I had this summer in Mongolia, in case it helps anyone get their bearings—I also relied a lot on forums myself.

We went as a couple with a French-speaking guide, Hacha, for a 17-day trek through the steppes and the Gobi Desert.

The experience was amazing—the landscapes are truly diverse and stunning. We started with a quick visit to Ulaanbaatar, then headed into the steppes for half the trip, including the Orkhon Valley, before moving on to the desert, which isn’t just sand but has incredibly varied scenery.

We traveled with Hacha, who has been a guide for 27 years and knows Mongolia inside out. She was accompanied by her daughter (with our consent). Hacha teaches French the rest of the year and speaks it perfectly. Her kindness and humor were much appreciated, and she’s become a friend. She prepared delicious homemade meals throughout the trip, adapted to European tastes since she’s used to it. We also had a driver who was really friendly and professional.

I injured myself on the way there with a sprained ankle, and Hacha immediately adjusted the pace and some activities to accommodate my injury, as well as booking more comfortable lodgings for the first few nights. She didn’t tell us it cost her extra, and we only found out later—we chose to pay a supplement, but she never asked for anything. Hacha was very fair with money, and her rates seem a bit lower than what we’d found elsewhere. She also tailors the program to the budget we gave her, and we had the option to adjust accommodations to fit our budget.

As for lodging, we stayed in tourist yurt camps (more comfortable with restaurants, showers, etc.), guest yurts, nights with nomadic families, and a few nights in tents. Our most memorable experience was two nights with nomads who welcomed us warmly, even though it was only the second time they’d hosted tourists. They shared their traditions with us, and the location was beautiful—right by a lake.

Hacha also adapted to our last-minute requests. For example, I mentioned wanting to see a shaman, which was tricky since it wasn’t planned in advance (my fault for not bringing it up earlier), but she used her contacts to see if there was a possibility. Unfortunately, no shamans were available, but we spontaneously stopped by the family of a young shaman during one of our trips. She wasn’t there, but we got to hear her parents’ stories and ask questions about the rituals to become a shaman and their experiences. It was a rare and unique moment I won’t forget!

We’ll definitely return to Mongolia as a family to explore less touristy regions (though we weren’t really bothered by tourism), as Hacha offers other off-the-beaten-path itineraries, including one that visits a turquoise lake surrounded by sand dunes—which sounds incredible, according to her.

I highly recommend Mongolia to anyone looking for an authentic trip that pushes you slightly out of your comfort zone while still feeling safe and enjoying breathtakingly diverse landscapes. And I 100% recommend Hacha—she created a personalized trip based on our requests and adapted to our needs and wishes on the spot!

Hi there, After making good use of the tips on this site, I’m now adding my own contribution. We’ve just returned from 25 days exploring Mongolia. A trip that took us from the capital to the Gobi Desert, from the ancient capital Karakhorum to the Orkhon Valley, and also off the beaten path to places close to nature and nomadic life, all thanks to our guide Hacha. I’m used to traveling as a couple or solo, in "backpacker" mode, and I rarely—or only occasionally—hire a guide. But this time, I have to admit that choosing a guide-interpreter and a driver was an excellent idea. We set off as a group of four to share the costs. I’d spoken with Hacha, a Mongolian who used to work at the French Alliance, speaks perfect French, and has been organizing trips for over 25 years. Needless to say, she knows her job inside out and has built strong relationships with nomadic families over the years. Since she only works with small groups, she can steer clear of the main tourist spots. With her help, we were able to personalize our itinerary—and even adjust it as we went along. For example, we’d planned to attend the Naadam festival in a small town, but we found out there was another festival two days later that wasn’t on the schedule. So we tweaked our route to catch both, and we didn’t regret it. Anyway, if you’d like more details or Hacha’s contact info, feel free to reach out.

I took a few days to get some fresh air outside the Schengen-NATO prison. Between March 18, 2026, and March 25, 2026, as shown by the passport stamps:



Borisoglebsk is the Russian border checkpoint after Kirkenes, on the road to Murmansk.

Kirkenes is a tiny town with a correspondingly small airport. Nothing has changed there: the minibuses to Murmansk wait on the right as you exit the airport. They’re synchronized with the two daily flights from Oslo—the SAS around 11:00 AM and Norwegian around 11:30 AM. They stop in Kirkenes at the corner of the Scandic for an hour, where other passengers can board, then head straight to the nearby border.

This is the least hassle Frontex/Schengen border. The Norwegian agent quickly scans your passport, and that’s it. No customs, since Norway is Schengen but not in the EU. On the Russian side, there’s a passport check and a quick customs inspection. All in all, crossing both the Norwegian and Russian checkpoints takes about 15 minutes.

A paper visa is required; e-visas aren’t accepted.

Two companies run the route: Avto Ekspress and Borodin: https://ae51.ru/routes/kirkenes-murmansk/ https://borodinbus.com/

The one-way fare is 5,500 ₽. You can either buy it online in rubles with a MIR card or make a formal reservation and pay in NOK cash to the driver. I took Borodin, and the price in NOK was much more expensive than in ₽.

=========================

On March 25, I left from Pskov via the Estonian border post at Luhaama. I spent three days in Murmansk, flew to St. Petersburg (SPB), stayed there for two days, then took an evening train to Pskov.

Since the end of February—and reportedly until the end of May—the Estonians have restricted the opening hours of the two border crossings near Pskov: Koidula (Pechory on the Russian side) and Luhaama (Izborsk on the Russian side). They’re closed at night between 7:00 PM and 7:00 AM. Right now, there’s a bus from Pskov at 7:00 AM to the border. It drops you off at the end of the road where truckers—many Kazakh and Serbian—are parked on the side. You finish the rest on foot to the barrier, where there’s a quick initial check for Ukrainian stamps in passports. Then you walk to the customs building, followed by passport control at the kiosk for motorists. After that, it’s a 500-meter walk to the Estonian checkpoint. At the moment, things seem calmer. Passport control is quick. The usual silly questions in English: "Where were you? Where are you going?" I just gave my most clueless smile: "Sorry, I don’t understand." Yeah, right—I don’t speak English, especially not at an Estonian border with a French passport. If they’re in a mood, though... A very quick bag inspection. Once you exit the Estonian post, walk to the bus stop sign by the road where another coach takes you to Riga.

The catch: in my case, last Wednesday, there were two passengers (Russians) with old Ukrainian stamps in their passports. The bus from the Estonian post to Riga was supposed to leave around 9:30 AM. We ended up leaving around noon after the two were grilled by the FSB. Since it was a weekday outside of holidays, the bus was half-empty. The fuller the bus and the more people with Ukrainian stamps, the worse the nightmare. Don’t book a same-day flight from Riga. I had a flight at 6:00 PM, so it worked out.

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The Kirkenes-Murmansk route is still clearly the easiest and fastest. But it’s not the most convenient since it’s way up north.

Next, I’d say the Gdansk-Kaliningrad route in the middle of the week. Avoid weekends and holiday departures/returns.

Avoid the Narva-Ivangorod route during Christmas, Easter, May 9, and *all* summer.

==============

About flights from Murmansk to St. Petersburg: prices are good. I bought my ticket the day before departure on Rossiya for 7,500 ₽, including 10 kg of luggage + a handbag.



It’s the tail end of the northern lights season, and there were still crowds of Chinese tourists.



By the way, Murmansk is twinned with Harbin:



Chinese tourists are the largest foreign group, followed by Indians, then a mix of others from the Far East, Turks, Arabs, etc. Brochures are bilingual—Russian and Chinese:



============================

But let’s talk practical stuff. --

My domestic SIM card was restricted for SMS and internet for 24 hours. After that, if you want to keep using SMS, don’t turn off your phone—restarting triggers another 24-hour purgatory.

My Russian SIM cards (Megafon, MTS, Beeline) were activated as soon as I logged into their respective apps with my credentials.

Internet --

Telegram is heavily slowed down by authorities. To use it, you need to connect through proxy servers, which you load into the latest version of the app. Traffic is then rerouted internally within Telegram to servers outside Russia (Germany, Poland, Sweden, etc.). You can find these proxies on various channels. One is ChatVPN—check their website too.

For general internet use, like browsing the web, VPNs that work right now use the VLESS protocol. You can find several on Telegram by searching "VPN." A few free days, then payment in rubles or crypto.

Rozkomnadzor’s team are experts at this, so things can change. It’s a constant cat-and-mouse game.

Pskov is a special case. The city is near Estonia and has a large military base. Depending on NATO drone swarms launched from the Baltics, Wi-Fi can be completely suspended except for the most essential mobile apps. The drone swarms use the 4G network, and the powerful electronic jamming and drone suppression systems cause periods without Wi-Fi—including in hotels. Wired connections aren’t affected.

Hi there,

I’m planning to visit Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan in early June, assuming the war doesn’t spread ??? Could anyone give me some info about the eastern border after visiting Charyn Canyon? First, is it possible to head east using public transport, or should I book a tour from Almaty and stay in the east to continue on to Kyrgyzstan toward Karakol? (I mean, not return to Almaty with the tour.) It’s a bit of a vague question, but those who’ve been there will know what I’m talking about;

Thanks!

Patrice

Hello,

New year, new questions...😛

Since the Chinese highway isn’t finished yet (opening postponed year after year), I’m wondering what condition this track is in come June?

I’m a bit worried that the snowmelt might completely soak the track—or even that the snow might still be clinging to the mountainside near the pass...

Thanks 🙂

Hi, Does anyone know if the travel agency "NOUVINI" in Tashkent still exists??? Or do you have another agency to recommend??? Thanks in advance! Best regards, Jean Pierre

Hi there, We’re a group of 4 people who prefer to travel independently but also want to use local guides at different stages of our trip. My question is: should we plan to hire a different guide for each stage, or just one guide for all the different legs? We’re planning to travel between stages either by taxi or public transport (train, plane…). Our itinerary is pretty classic (3 weeks): Visit Tashkent Tashkent – Ferghana Valley (by train) Explore the valley and return to Tashkent with a guide and taxi Tashkent – Nukus (flight) Nukus – Khiva by taxi + guide for Khiva visit Khiva – Bukhara by taxi + guide for Bukhara visit Bukhara – Lake Aydar Kul – Samarkand by taxi + guide for Samarkand Samarkand – Tashkent (by train). Is the cost reasonable for the transfers between stages? Also, I’m open to any suggestions or tips (recommended guides, etc.). Thanks! Bernard

Hi there, I’d like to spend 2–3 days in the Korgaljyn area in May to photograph flamingos and other birds. I’ll be in Astana and I’m looking for a tour that includes accommodation so I can stay for 2 days. I’ve found the buses from Astana and info about the park’s facilities, but no accommodation or guided outings. Has anyone done this? Thanks for your help

Hi, Did you attend the show at the Nadir Divan Begi Madrasa in Bukhara? What are the details for booking? Thanks in advance. Have a great day and happy travels! Danielle

Hi,

Planning a solo trip to Kyrgyzstan in May. Any tips or info?

Thanks

Hi everyone, happy to be back on VF! I’ll be in Uzbekistan this coming April and will of course visit the three classics—Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. However, I’d also love to get out of these cities to explore the Uzbek countryside and experience its nature. Mountains, steppes, etc. Ideally, with some great hikes passing through villages. Any spots you’d recommend? Thanks in advance

Hi, We were wondering if anyone has recently experienced the Tashkent / Fergana Valley route by bus or taxi? We’re landing in Tashkent at 10:30 PM with our international flight. To head to Fergana the next day, the only trains available are very early in the morning or very late in the evening (arriving at 11:30 PM in Fergana). So, we’d like to avoid that mode of transport if possible to spend half a day in Tashkent and relax a bit. Thanks

Hi there, We’re heading to Saint Petersburg from June 30 to July 7, 2026, and we’ll be arriving late (9 PM) at our hotel on June 30. Unfortunately, the hotel can’t pick us up from the train station. Is it easy to get a taxi at Saint Petersburg coach station? Thanks for your help!

Hi, We’d like to know if it’s easy to visit the Sarmych-Sai gorges from Bukhara as a day trip. Do homestays and hotels offer this? Thanks

Hello, We’re a senior couple planning to spend around 3 weeks in Uzbekistan, either starting at the end of March or mid-April. We’ll begin in Khiva (Urgench) and finish in Tashkent (via Termez). We prefer traveling independently as much as possible, at our own pace, and are considering hiring drivers for specific legs of our journey. Here’s our rough itinerary: 4 nights in Khiva 4 in Bukhara 5 or 6 in Samarkand (we’d like to do a day trip to the Seven Lakes in Tajikistan) 2 in Termez Then Tashkent and the Fergana Valley 2 in Tashkent Does this seem balanced? Any suggestions? We’re not planning to go as far as the Aral Sea or stay in a yurt camp. Is the weather favorable at the end of March (risk of rain)? Or would mid-April be better? What’s the typical cost for a driver’s services? Thank you in advance for any tips that could help us with our plans. Andrea

Hi, I just read the various discussions about the photo tax that’s being asked for in Uzbekistan, but that info is from 2016/2017. I’m leaving next week for Tashkent/Samarkand/Bukhara/Khiva, and I’ve been told a 50 USD tax is required for photos. I really get the feeling this is a "forced sale" and an exorbitant amount. Have any of you paid this tax recently? Thanks

Hi,

In two weeks, we’re arriving in Tashkent around 1 a.m. I don’t think my hotel accepts Mastercard—is it better to bring dollars to pay, or will I be able to withdraw some som there?

Same question: I don’t think I’ll be able to buy an eSIM at 1 a.m., but has anyone seen it done that late?

Thanks.

Hi everyone, I’m landing at Urgench Airport at 7:10 AM and I’d like to get to Nukus, but I’m not sure how. There’s supposedly a bus (no. 748?), but I can’t find its schedule or departure point (airport, city center?). If any of you have done this route before, I’d love some info. Have a great day