My daughter (22) and I set off to explore a bit of her grandfather’s homeland.
We left on July 26 from Roissy and arrived in Rabat with Air France.
We had a few hiccups retrieving our luggage—1.5 hours of waiting and a mini interrogation at customs about our host’s address (they asked for a reference) and questions about a Moroccan ID card I’ve never applied for. Next time, I’d better have it—dual nationals get extra scrutiny.
We headed to the ONCF station to catch the train to Marrakech. First-class tickets cost 195 MAD, with assigned seats and decent comfort… the catch? The train was delayed, so we arrived at 2:50 AM instead of 12:10 AM.
We chose the Ibis Gare, located between the ONCF station and the Supratours bus terminal. We booked two nights from France for 79.85 €. To avoid the premium-rate call, just dial the hotel directly—they’ll handle the reservation. I’d signed up on the Ibis website beforehand for a discount (free and comes with perks).
On-site, we added 44 MAD for the tourist tax (11 MAD x 4 nights). We skipped breakfast—too pricey at 6.50 € per person. The hotel has a nice pool and a pleasant setting. The shower seals weren’t perfect, but the bedding was comfy, the linens soft, and the AC worked (though it was noisy). We were overall happy with it.
We had breakfast and lunch at a café/restaurant right across from the hotel—affordable and tasty.
For phones, we bought two Inwi SIM cards for 30 MAD each and a 5 GB internet top-up for 50 MAD—more than enough for our 16-day trip. Later, we added two 20 MAD call top-ups. Total phone budget for both of us: 150 MAD.
Taxis in Marrakech: No issues. We always asked for the meter—if a driver refused, we’d just move on. No haggling for us!
Day 1: We visited the Majorelle Garden (70 MAD per person). It was beautiful and peaceful. We walked there.
In the afternoon, we took a taxi to Jemaa el-Fnaa square. The constant solicitations were exhausting—I felt like a guard dog fending people off. The worst part? We got lured deep into the medina to some sketchy spot under the pretense of seeing "Berber tanneries"—"last day!"—then had a guy grab our arms, demanding 200 MAD. I offered 50 MAD max since we hadn’t asked for anything. When he insisted, I threatened to go to the police. He finally let go for the 50 MAD. We headed back to the hotel to enjoy the pool before returning to the square for the evening. It was lively but noisy, and I found the vendors *way* too pushy. We walked back to the hotel—an hour-long stroll that was actually really nice. We kept no more than 150 MAD in our wallet at a time.
We stuffed ourselves with smoothies—they’re *so* good.
Day 2: We left at 8:30 AM for Tinghir with Supratours, arriving at 4:45 PM instead of 4:00 PM (lots of roadwork). Tickets were 130 MAD per person + 5 MAD per checked bag.
We stayed one night at the "Retour au Calme" hostel—super cozy! 150 MAD for a room with a private shower and toilet. AC was an extra 80 MAD per night (not mandatory) but worked great. Phone: +212 5248-34924.
Breakfast was 30 MAD, and they offer tons of options, including budget-friendly choices like a couch for 80 MAD per person with shared showers/toilets. Half-board and full-board are also available. Mohamed and Alexandra are lovely. I booked by phone and paid on-site—they even picked us up from the bus station!
We took a taxi to the Todra Gorge—a breath of fresh air! It’s stunning and humbling. You feel tiny there.
Shared taxis cost 8 MAD per person (fixed price). The organization was impressive.
To get from the city center to the bus station: 3 MAD per person.
Day 3: We left at 4:00 PM for Merzouga, arriving at 9:30 PM. Tickets were 80 MAD per person + 5 MAD per checked bag.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by Houssein, one of five brothers running the "Auberge Océan des Dunes." We had a lovely room with a private bathroom and kitchen access. Two rooms are available in this unit for 190 MAD per night for two, including breakfast.
Ocean Dunes Hostel
It's a family-run place managed by a brotherhood of five men.
The construction is rammed earth, the walls are 50 cm thick and retain heat... great in winter. The water in the bathrooms isn’t heated in summer... the shower is very hot (low pressure), no AC in our room but there are fans. In summer, the water can be cut off at night—bring a bucket or ask for one to have some for the night.
Don’t drink the tap water... no one does, including the locals. However, they drink well water, but they advise tourists to stick to bottled water.
This hostel also welcomes campervans and campers with tents. Others sleep on the terrace or outside. Towels and blankets are available in the rooms.
There’s no TV, but Wi-Fi is available in the common areas, and you can cook your own meals.
You can see the dunes from the hostel—20 minutes on foot to walk on them.
Day 4: Departure with a shared taxi to Rissani’s Sunday souk, accompanied by Houssein, who said he had errands to run. He wanted to come with us!! ;) and didn’t ask for anything.
15 DH per person for the taxi.
We wanted to buy plastic flip-flops but went for leather instead—same price, 40 DH.
Visit to the kasbah, which is being fully renovated—50 families live there, and it’s really nice.
Heading to Moulay Ali Cherif, the birthplace of my grandfather’s family. Not knowing the ksar where he was born, we settled for the mausoleum... refreshing.
Back at the hostel, we cooked zucchini, ate yellow melon, and then headed to Houssein’s family palm grove and the dunes... I loved it, but then I felt unwell from the heat. I went back to the room—I was a total slug!!!
Romy went back to the dunes to move around... without a hat—"It’s ugly and uncool!!!"
Then back to the hostel... couldn’t eat anything solid! Just water, water!!! Romy had a quarter of Moroccan watermelon for dinner... you can guess the result... sick all night! Couldn’t see the sunrise because it was cloudy, and we were exhausted.
Even though we were supposed to leave the room at 1 PM, they let us stay until 6 PM and took us to the bus at exactly 7 PM—they were adorable, especially since we were both so sick.
7 PM departure for Meknes... Supratours. Houssein had booked our tickets in advance.
170 DH + 5 DH per person.
On the bus, I felt like throwing up the whole way. The rest stop smelled amazing with grilled food—I wanted some!!! But I was so scared of getting sick. Arrived at Meknes station at 3:30 AM—annoying but super fresh!!! Cold, we walked for an hour to our destination and waited for a reasonable time to show up. A café owner let us in while he was setting up.
8 AM, arrived at Hemti’s, my late dad’s sister’s place. Time to sleep.
Thanks for this travel journal.
I always admire travelers who get by (and do it really well) using only public transportation.
That often means more or less long journeys "on foot."
Not necessarily, Alain—by using the "petit taxis" or shared taxis you find everywhere, personally I don’t really walk much (unless I want to explore a specific spot by wandering around).
It’s just a matter of getting used to it, a reflex to develop.
🙂
You're absolutely right, because there's always the option to use the "petit" or "grand" taxis, which are usually available at bus stations.
You're a perfect example of that (confirmed by Hannah when she stayed at our place in July.😉
that said, it’s true that sometimes you’re stuck "in the middle of nowhere" in quite a few spots that are nearly impossible to explore without your own car. The trip Hannah and I took really drove that home.
But hey, they’re still amazing road trips anyway.
Days 6, 7, 8, 9 – Meknes and Fes
We discovered the concept of French time vs. Moroccan time here:
French: 30 minutes late
Moroccan: 2 to 3 hours late...
A certain leisurely pace—eat, sleep, eat, sleep, etc...
Different houses and homes, from the simple house with all the comforts to the modern home in a beautiful neighborhood with marble everywhere, one level with 5 living rooms—basically a rich person’s house. Opulence of refined food.
We were also lucky enough to be invited to share an afternoon snack in Moulay Driss in a very modest home where the key words are generosity and sharing. We only took photos of their mode of transport: the donkey.
Volubilis, which I could only see from afar due to a paralyzed foot. But Romy enjoyed it and took photos of the site at sunset for us (photos to come).
We could only spend one day in Fes—what a shame! A Moroccan woman we met on VF drove us to the Hôtel des Mérinides—what a stunning view!! Just wow! The place is truly magical. The medina, briefly! But too many solicitations. My daughter had a negative preconception, and I was struggling to walk, so it wasn’t easy. I’d go back alone.
The stories from VF members really make me want to get to know this city better.
The evening we returned to Meknes, we were lucky enough to be shown around the medina—I loved the activity in the square at nightfall. We feasted on *boubouch* and chickpeas with cumin, and always smoothies.
We had to show great determination to avoid being pulled in every direction... but we couldn’t escape the *baptême*—the baby was 7 days old.
Outfits were lent to us... the celebration happens in two parts: a party for the men in the afternoon and for the women in the evening. The chance to show off the most beautiful outfits and jewelry.
It was really fun seeing women having a blast while the men of the house were outside in the garden waiting for the party to end (6 AM). Dinner was served at 2 AM... 🤪 I was thinking about the baby being shown off like a trophy in deafening music.
What I didn’t like: seeing half-eaten bread thrown out with the trash. That didn’t sit right with me.
Friday morning, French-time meet-up with my cousin (punctual), and we visited my dad’s grave—he’s not buried in a cemetery but in a Zaouia (though I’m not sure).
Visit to the family home and a hammam that opened in May 2017—it’s gorgeous, with the option for a private space. Of course, the place isn’t mixed—separate hours for men and women. I’ll share the address later, and I think it’s 15 DH per person... super clean.
That’s it for Meknes.
Saturday, the train to Rabat—left on time but took 4h30 instead of 2 hours!! The train was pulled by donkeys, but luckily, we had first-class tickets, so we were seated. 95 DH per person.
on prices
cigarettes:
I know it's not good to smoke but:
1 pack of Marlboro in Morocco 33 MAD
At duty-free 28 € for a carton payable in euros
69 € for 3 cartons... don't try to outsmart customs.
The tram is very handy in Rabat-Salé: 6 MAD with a transfer allowed within an hour. There are 2 lines, which limits options.
Casablanca: 8 MAD, or with a rechargeable card (costs 15 MAD) it's 6 MAD.
A Coke in a café: 8 to 10 MAD
Fresh fruit smoothie: 10 to 25 MAD depending on the place and fruits.
Black coffee: 7 to 15 MAD
Bottle of water in a grocery store: large 6 MAD, small 3.50 MAD, Coke 5.50 MAD for half a liter.
Sparkling water Oulmes isn't bad.
For food:
Cheese panini with fries: 12 to 20 MAD
Moroccan salad: 10 to 15 MAD or a big salad
Grilled chicken: 10 MAD for 2 pieces (back + drumstick) (in the medina)
Fresh orange juice: 5 to 12 MAD
Watermelon: we paid 22 MAD for 8 kg.
Zucchini, tomatoes: 5 MAD/kg
Peaches, nectarines: 5 to 15 MAD
Grapes: 5 to 10 MAD
Round bread: 1 to 2 MAD.
Prickly pears: 1 MAD
Ice cream: 3 scoops for 10 to 35 MAD
Italian ice cream: 1 to 6 MAD...
Honey and sesame cakes, those twisted things... 750 g for 10 MAD
Boubouch: 5 to 10 MAD per bowl
Couscous: 22 to 70 MAD per person
Little tip for toilets: always carry tissues or wipes with you.
hi there
The train, taxis, the bus... I’ve done this several times, and it often leads to great interactions. I’m thinking of one time when we got stuck during a bus strike—waiting in Ouarzazate for hours... then a stop in a village on the way to Merzouga!
No hostels, but a young man invited us to his family’s home. Amazing welcome, good meal, comfy bed (and yes, good beers—they do drink a little alcohol), then the next day, a visit to the gorges (though the taxi was pricey)... more waiting... a walk through the palm groves...
Really a different way to experience things...
But since then, I rent a car, which lets us go where we want, when we want—and at my age, that’s a big plus!
After crunching the numbers, when there are four of us in the car, the budget is pretty much the same!
Anyway, thanks for your feedback!
It must be moving to reconnect with your roots!
francia
🙂
For food, I love everything on your list, except for boubouchs 😠—I just can’t do it! And yet I’ve tried 😉
Were there no more strawberries?
In March, we feasted on strawberries and raspberries.
In order:
Dakhla’s couscous
Agadir’s raspberries
Agadir’s salad
Bennis’ gazelle horns in Casablanca
Octopus tagine in Safi...
Based on my calculations, I think the car becomes cost-effective for more than 2 people... and what freedom!
As for the roots, it's just childhood memories... and also to show my daughter lots of things and landscapes, since I don’t have a great feeling about the Maghreb.
Personally, I’m not too confident about driving in the mountains... but I’ll do it one day! In cities like Meknes, though!!! Total maniacs! 😡 I thought I was going to die with a taxi! My daughter was folded in half! Not me!
We were lucky to meet a 21-year-old guy in Tinghir, an intern at the hostel "Retour au calme"... He speaks French and gets by in English, with some German and Spanish too.
Originally from the mountains, from a family of 9 brothers... he had to fight to get the right to go to school. His parents live in a troglodyte house. Great for the AC!!! 😎
In primary school, he walked 3 hours a day; in middle school, 6 hours a day. In his second year, a French mission provided them with school transport. He’s now a high school graduate and wants to go to tourism school... and he’s saving up to pay his part. My Romy said: "And we complain about taking the bus for 500 meters!"
It was a really lovely encounter.
No more strawberries or maybe frozen ones.. but the peaches and melon are so good.
The gazelle horns pastries are too sweet for me... I prefer my grandma’s, she uses half the sugar. I’ll send you her recipe sometime... simple to make but time-consuming.
For food, I only mentioned the things I bought... because my favorite starter is felfla and matécha (peppers, tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, coriander, cumin, etc.) simmered and served cold or hot. I ate it with the family because they all passed the word around!
I only really liked the boubouch from Casa, at the place where my mom used to go in the 70s. The owner is still there, old and all hunched over... and he still recognized us.
Sfeng are greasy but so good, same for msens.
Great photos of delicious eats, as they say.
Those little macarons (I think they're bitter almond macarons) are making me crave them, same with the salad & tagine!! 😛
Hello, For a week-long trip starting from Marrakech with a rental car, if you had to choose between these two loops, which one would you go for and why? 1)…
Hi, we're looking for a guide to show us around Essaouira.
We're 11 adults and don't want to go through an agency. If you have a contact to help us discover this city, that would be great!
Thanks
Hello, my husband and I will be in Egypt this coming November. Cairo seems more challenging to explore without a guide, and we’ll be there for 3 full days. Would anyone have the name of a guide?
Thanks!
Hi there!
I’m heading to Dakhla at the end of October for about two weeks as a backpacker.
Without renting a car or booking pricey excursions, what are the best ways to get around and explore?
I’ve heard that the small taxis only cover limited routes outside the city center, and the local buses might be tricky...
Thanks to anyone who knows the area and can share their tips for nature and culture in this up-and-coming destination!
Laurence
I’m heading back to Egypt for the first time in 30 years this July. Last time, I was 20, and we spent two weeks traveling on a shoestring as backpackers.
I’m wondering about a "cruise" on a felucca from Aswan—mainly to avoid being stuck in an air-conditioned tourist bubble (we’re already spending our first week in that setting with our diving club). We’d like to explore the most interesting stretch of the Nile between Aswan and Luxor. Do you have any thoughts on this option, tips, or maybe some contacts?
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
Here’s a first draft for a 14-night itinerary during the Christmas break with two teens. We’re especially fond of hiking (nothing too extreme, though), which is why we’re drawn to the south.
- Marrakech (2 nights)
- Aït Ben Haddou (1 night)
- Dadès (3 nights, though we’re thinking of doing a day trip to the Todra Gorge on one of those days)
- M'hamid (1 night)
- Erg Chigaga (1 night)
- 4 nights to slot in
- Marrakech (2 nights)
Okay, I realize this involves a lot of driving, and we’re still debating the return route since we’d like to avoid the Tichka Pass in January, but going through Taroudant seems like it would add *a lot* of time. 😕
If you’ve got other suggestions for an itinerary with great hikes, I’m all ears!
Also, the 4 nights total in MRK isn’t really our preference, but since we’re arriving/departing super early from overseas, we’d like to be a bit rested before the long flight.
Another question:
For hikes (aside from the desert one), is it better to have a guide with us, or are the trails well-marked?
Hi everyone,
Our trip to Morocco will be from November 3 to 17, in the High Atlas.
Basically, our route would be:
Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou
Skoura - Tinghir - Merzouga
Merzouga via the N12 to Zagora
Zagora - Draa Valley - Marrakech
It seems to be the low season, so I’d love to travel without having to book accommodations in advance. In other countries, pre-booking has restricted us and kept us from visiting unplanned sites. Freedom is important to us, but I’d also like to avoid arriving somewhere and finding nothing available.
What do you recommend? Book ahead or not?
Your advice is always helpful, and thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Roberto
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
I’m just a few days away from my trip to Marrakech—I’m leaving from November 13th to 20th and bringing my parents along! I’d love to plan my stay as best as I can, and I’m sure the forum crew can help. So, here are my questions:
- Where’s the best place to exchange money without getting ripped off? The owner of the riad where we’re staying told us to avoid doing it at the airport because it’s really expensive and to do it in the medina instead, near Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Which traditional hammams do you recommend that are reasonably priced? How much should we budget for one? That’ll help me plan my expenses.
- What are some nice restaurants in the medina?
- I’d also like to know roughly how much to expect for a tea, a meal, a taxi, a djellaba, and babouches. I don’t want to get overcharged and would like to know what to expect.
- What are the must-do activities and places to visit?
Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!
We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April.
What do you think of this rate?
This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.
Hi there,
We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake?
Thanks,
Christian
Hi there,
We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February.
We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.
-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available?
-Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)?
-Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?
With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!
- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?)
- What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!)
- In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid?
- Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country?
- A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you:
- Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why?
- Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies.
- Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car?
- Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Have a great evening,
Roberto
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!!
Thanks
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
Visit to the kasbah, which is being fully renovated—50 families live there, and it’s really nice.
Back at the hostel, we cooked zucchini, ate yellow melon, and then headed to Houssein’s family palm grove and the dunes... I loved it, but then I felt unwell from the heat. I went back to the room—I was a total slug!!!
Romy went back to the dunes to move around... without a hat—"It’s ugly and uncool!!!"
Then back to the hostel... couldn’t eat anything solid! Just water, water!!! Romy had a quarter of Moroccan watermelon for dinner... you can guess the result... sick all night! Couldn’t see the sunrise because it was cloudy, and we were exhausted.
Even though we were supposed to leave the room at 1 PM, they let us stay until 6 PM and took us to the bus at exactly 7 PM—they were adorable, especially since we were both so sick.
7 PM departure for Meknes... Supratours. Houssein had booked our tickets in advance.
170 DH + 5 DH per person.
On the bus, I felt like throwing up the whole way. The rest stop smelled amazing with grilled food—I wanted some!!! But I was so scared of getting sick. Arrived at Meknes station at 3:30 AM—annoying but super fresh!!! Cold, we walked for an hour to our destination and waited for a reasonable time to show up. A café owner let us in while he was setting up.
8 AM, arrived at Hemti’s, my late dad’s sister’s place. Time to sleep.
