For a week-long trip starting from Marrakech with a rental car, if you had to choose between these two loops, which one would you go for and why?
1) Marrakech - Ouarzazate - Dades Gorges - Merzouga - Marrakech (map itinerary)
2) Marrakech - Ouarzazate - Dades Gorges - Zagora - Marrakech (map itinerary)
Important info: this is for mid-February, so nights will be cold.
For option 1, we’re thinking of staying in a "solid" hotel in Merzouga rather than camping in a tent without heating (our 10-year-old might not like that ^^). If you’ve got any experience to share about cold winter nights in the desert while camping, that’d be super helpful!
Zagora isn’t worth it in terms of desert—you need to go all the way to Mahmid to reach the dunes.
Search this forum’s engine (top right) for "Mahmid or Merzouga"—you’ll find discussions about the tough choice between the two spots.
Stay in a hostel or a bivouac?
At Merzouga, I really enjoy doing one of each! It lets you take the time to live at the village’s pace instead of just "consuming" the dunes in express mode. Stroll through the palm grove, wander the village, head to Khamlia (the Gnawa village)—all with the dunes always in sight. I love it!
Standard bivouac nights *are* cold, but it’s a very dry cold. The blankets do their job perfectly.
Otherwise, I think the rooms in "luxury camps" have heating (yes, it’s a bit odd...).
Thanks so much! Yeah, it was either the dunes (Merzouga) or more the Draa Valley (so not going all the way to M'hamid, since the route itself seems to be gorgeous).
What do you think about each of the routes in terms of distance for a week? We’ve got the travel times from Google Maps, but I’m not sure if they’re realistic (or if it takes double the time once you’re there).
I’ll keep your preference for the Merzouga route in mind!
Thanks
Don’t trust the travel times shown on Google Maps—they don’t account for the many villages that almost every road passes through, or the mountain curves...
Plan for an average speed of about 50-60 km/h.
What really takes time isn’t just the driving, but all the stops you’ll want to make! :-) It’s beautiful everywhere...
The Draa Valley is stunning, and I think it’s a shame to stop at Zagora. Even if you don’t want to explore the dunes, it’s worth going toward Mhamid (special mention for the village of Tamegroute and the Djane Dar Diafa hostel).
But I know the Merzouga area much better, and I never get tired of the road from Marrakech to Merzouga: diverse landscapes, plenty of interesting stops and visits along the way.
If you’re unsure about a bivouac in the dunes, opt for a night in a hostel first, and you can decide on the spot whether to spend a second night in a bivouac (every hostel has its own dunes camp—you’ll see if your daughter feels like giving it a try).
Thanks! I’d also like to push on to M’Hamid, but we only have a week and the itinerary already feels pretty ambitious, so I think we have to choose between going as far as Merzouga OR Zagora and even M’Hamid—but in that case, we won’t do the desert (not enough time). So it comes down to choosing between Merzouga and the dunes or the Draa Valley all the way to M’Hamid.
That’s a personal choice.
On the other hand, I’d love to hear your thoughts on whether either of these routes is doable in such a short time. I wouldn’t want to get there and realize we could’ve stopped every half hour to discover amazing things!
I’m not really a fan of Merzouga—it’s become a bit of a theme park. Not necessarily unpleasant, but if you're looking for a true desert vibe, you’ll need earplugs...
In November, it gets really cold at night in the desert and the mountains. During the day, it was fine.
Maybe you’ll find some ideas in this travel journal?
There’s also a dune not too far from Zagora. It’s more like the Dune of Pilat than a real desert, but it’s still fun, especially at 10 years old.
La rue comme gagne-pain : concours de photos amical de septembre 2026
Rubrique Jeux Voyages
C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
if you go for Marrakech-Merzouga:
a full week (6 or 7 full days) works really well for this round-trip route.
Ideally 6 nights: 2 nights on the way there, 2 in Merzouga, and 2 on the way back.
Worthwhile stops along the way: Ait BenHaddou, Skoura, the Dades Gorge, Tineghir.
For the return trip, you could take a different route via Nkob and Agdz.
I can’t give you much advice on that stretch—I don’t know it well enough.
In one week, you have to choose—either Merzouga or Mhamid.
Personally, I’d go for Merzouga. It’s accessible by car, and there are several interesting spots along the way. The return trip is quicker via the southern route Almif–Nkob. A really nice stop is Camp Serdrar near Tazzarine. From there, a new road (still not marked on maps) lets you reach the Draa Valley at Zagora.
hi there
one week isn’t much, but it’s enough to do the stunning route: Marrakech, Aït Benhaddou, Dades, Merzouga, and back via Nkob and the Draa Valley!
personally, I’m staying at the Oasis hostel in Hassilabied, 3 km before Merzouga!
way more peaceful! Right at the foot of the dunes and next to the oasis!
spend a night in a bivouac—it’s always an amazing experience!
there are always blankets!
have a great trip
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
I’ve been going to Merzouga for 20 years. I’ve also seen the changes—some not so great—in this area. It’s clear I won’t see the Milky Way like I did 20 years ago, nor will I hear that sweet nighttime silence in the middle of the dunes. Even the hostel professionals have lost some of their spontaneity: for the most part, their activities have become very professionalized, with a well-oiled organization.
I went on a bivouac in 2021—I hadn’t been in 7 or 8 years.
And I tried the luxury bivouac... NEVER AGAIN!
Taking "dream" photos in the dunes was really complicated. In fact, I let go and opted for photos that showed the reality: quads and 4x4s far outnumbering camels (and much noisier, of course), questionable safety since some drive like maniacs, tire tracks from quads and 4x4s everywhere in the dunes. At sunset, there’s a constant back-and-forth of 4x4s looking for the best spot for the view (and as a result, 4x4s parked at the top of every dune...).
Those who edit promotional flyers about the dream night in the Merzouga Desert must be using old or doctored photos...
But I still go to Merzouga—to see friends in the village and to enjoy the area (dunes, palm grove in Merzouga, but also Rissani, Khamlia...). During the day, Merzouga is relatively quiet; most tourists are still on the road, not yet arrived. And honestly, my favorite moments in Merzouga over the past 20 years have been in the village, with the dunes as a permanent backdrop. And that’s just fine with me.
For someone who wants to "experience" the desert at a more natural pace, I’d recommend Mauritania or Algeria instead. But it’s also more demanding in terms of organization (and cost). Otherwise, well... Merzouga for a quick desert experience has become perfect (unfortunately for the area).
I’ve been going to Merzouga for 20 years. I’ve also seen the changes—some not so great—in this area. It’s clear I won’t see the Milky Way like I did 20 years ago, nor will I hear that sweet nighttime silence in the middle of the dunes. Even the hostel professionals have lost some of their spontaneity: for the most part, their activities have become very professionalized, with a well-oiled organization.
I went on a bivouac in 2021—I hadn’t been in 7 or 8 years.
And I tried the luxury bivouac... NEVER AGAIN!
Taking "dream" photos in the dunes was really complicated. In fact, I let go and opted for photos that showed the reality: quads and 4x4s far more numerous than camels (and much noisier, of course), safety very questionable since some drive like maniacs, quad and 4x4 tire tracks everywhere in the dunes; at sunset, a constant coming and going of 4x4s looking for the best spot for the view (and as a result, 4x4s parked on top of every dune...).
Those who edit promotional flyers about the dream night in the Merzouga Desert must be using old or doctored photos...
But I still go to Merzouga—to see friends in the village and to enjoy the area (dunes, palm grove in Merzouga, but also Rissani, Khamlia...). During the day, Merzouga is relatively quiet; most tourists are on the roads, not yet arrived. And really, my favorite moments in Merzouga over the past 20 years have been in the village, with the dunes as a permanent backdrop. And that’s just fine with me.
For someone who wants to "experience" the desert at a pace that suits it, I’d recommend Mauritania or Algeria instead. But it’s also more demanding in terms of organization (and cost). Otherwise, well... Merzouga for a quick desert fix has become perfect (unfortunately for the area).
Murielle
Okay, thanks Murielle, but what we’re looking for is different. I don’t see myself just enjoying the village with the dunes in the background, and we don’t have friends in the village ;)
On the other hand, we travel a lot, and everywhere we go, we avoid tourist traps. We’re obviously tourists ourselves, but not the "American-style" kind. For example, it wouldn’t occur to me to ride a quad in the desert. What you describe with the 4x4s and quads scares us, especially since we’ve changed our plans and will be going in April (peak season)!
The desert south of M’Hamid appealed to us more for that reason, but you have to drive all the way there and then another 2 hours from the last village to the dunes. That’s not really compatible with our 7-day schedule.
But I’ll start another thread because not only are we going in April, but we’ll also have 10 days. I hope to get your insights from everyone on our next post ;) Thanks
On the way out: Skoura and Tinghir.
On the way back: Dadès Valley and Ait Benhaddou.
Might as well take the opportunity to explore a few sites along this route.
Hello.
Without any hesitation, avoid Merzouga!
A great idea is to head to Mhamid (MRK, Aït Ben Haddou, Zagora) after getting in touch with Phil, who has a fantastic campsite just before Mhamid. He’ll organize a two-day trip for you with a night in the Chegaga desert (it’s not a touristy thing) and then you’ll head back up to MRK.
Phil is incredibly committed to the local community—he runs his place in a remarkable way and has nothing to do with the "money-grabbers" in Merzouga or some of the other "hotel owners" in Mhamid.
Phil is active on this forum (@Distran), and his campsite, "Esprit Désert," is in Oulad Driss, just before Mhamid and near the stunning abandoned village of Bou Nou (worth visiting).
You can find his contact details online.
PS: Just to clarify, Phil is French, so communication is easy.
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
The desert south of M'Hamid appealed to us more for that reason, but you have to drive all the way down there and then another 2 hours from the last village to the dunes. Not really compatible with our 7-day timeline.
Hi there,
That’s exactly why I mentioned the benefit of pushing on to Mhamid if you’re heading to Zagora.
See you soon on your other thread! :-)
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Here’s a first draft for a 14-night itinerary during the Christmas break with two teens. We’re especially fond of hiking (nothing too extreme, though), which is why we’re drawn to the south.
- Marrakech (2 nights)
- Aït Ben Haddou (1 night)
- Dadès (3 nights, though we’re thinking of doing a day trip to the Todra Gorge on one of those days)
- M'hamid (1 night)
- Erg Chigaga (1 night)
- 4 nights to slot in
- Marrakech (2 nights)
Okay, I realize this involves a lot of driving, and we’re still debating the return route since we’d like to avoid the Tichka Pass in January, but going through Taroudant seems like it would add *a lot* of time. 😕
If you’ve got other suggestions for an itinerary with great hikes, I’m all ears!
Also, the 4 nights total in MRK isn’t really our preference, but since we’re arriving/departing super early from overseas, we’d like to be a bit rested before the long flight.
Another question:
For hikes (aside from the desert one), is it better to have a guide with us, or are the trails well-marked?
Hi everyone,
Our trip to Morocco will be from November 3 to 17, in the High Atlas.
Basically, our route would be:
Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou
Skoura - Tinghir - Merzouga
Merzouga via the N12 to Zagora
Zagora - Draa Valley - Marrakech
It seems to be the low season, so I’d love to travel without having to book accommodations in advance. In other countries, pre-booking has restricted us and kept us from visiting unplanned sites. Freedom is important to us, but I’d also like to avoid arriving somewhere and finding nothing available.
What do you recommend? Book ahead or not?
Your advice is always helpful, and thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Roberto
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
I’m just a few days away from my trip to Marrakech—I’m leaving from November 13th to 20th and bringing my parents along! I’d love to plan my stay as best as I can, and I’m sure the forum crew can help. So, here are my questions:
- Where’s the best place to exchange money without getting ripped off? The owner of the riad where we’re staying told us to avoid doing it at the airport because it’s really expensive and to do it in the medina instead, near Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Which traditional hammams do you recommend that are reasonably priced? How much should we budget for one? That’ll help me plan my expenses.
- What are some nice restaurants in the medina?
- I’d also like to know roughly how much to expect for a tea, a meal, a taxi, a djellaba, and babouches. I don’t want to get overcharged and would like to know what to expect.
- What are the must-do activities and places to visit?
Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!
We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April.
What do you think of this rate?
This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.
Hi there,
We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake?
Thanks,
Christian
Hi there,
We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February.
We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.
-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available?
-Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)?
-Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?
With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!
- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?)
- What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!)
- In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid?
- Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country?
- A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you:
- Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why?
- Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies.
- Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car?
- Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Have a great evening,
Roberto
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!!
Thanks
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
