Martine from DD in Arizona and New Mexico (page 2 of 4)

Day 10: September 18 – Roswell to Tucumcari Désert Inn: 60 € for this cute little hotel with breakfast included, a fridge, pool, and spa

Departure at 8:10 AM. Not long after leaving Roswell, we hit a stretch of endless straight roads, surrounded by plains as far as the eye can see. No matter where you look, there’s grass, no hills, and the road is straight as an arrow. We soon reach the pretty NM 20, where we spot 3 pronghorn antelopes and their little white rumps.Every now and then, swarms of tiny birds suddenly burst out of the clumps of grass lining the road, and huge brown spiders cross right in front of us. This road is over 70 km long, and we only pass one other car.

We soon arrive in Fort Sumner, the town where the legendary outlaw Billy the Kid, a mythic figure of the Wild West, lost his life at just 22 years old—shot by Sheriff Pat Garrett after a string of escapes, murders, and crimes during his short life, as well as his involvement in the Lincoln County War. A fascinating museum is dedicated to this iconic figure of the American West. Another incredible journey through time in this museum. We wander from room to room in a cluttered space filled with objects that belonged to him, along with documents and photos of his arrest and death. There are also plenty of weapons, clothes, tools, saddles, and other vehicles (hearses, old cars, farm machinery, wagons) that immerse us in the lives of the pioneers. A quick stop at his grave, just a few kilometers from the museum.

Bosque Redondo Memorial A little further on is the deeply moving Bosque Redondo Memorial, a place steeped in history where a tragedy unfolded: in 1863, over nearly three years, more than 10,000 Navajos—men, women, and children—as well as hundreds of Mescalero Apaches were forced to march over 500 km across New Mexico to the Bosque Redondo Indian Reservation, where they were interned in horrific physical and psychological conditions in an attempt to reshape their culture. In 1868, the reservation was closed, and a Navajo treaty was signed, creating a sovereign nation and allowing the Native Americans to return to their tribes. Around 1,500 people lost their lives during the march or internment. This monument honors them. We didn’t visit the museum inside due to lack of time, but even just stopping outside this former reservation, with its life-sized, hyper-realistic statues endlessly walking in circles, is enough to immerse us in the horror of this dark chapter of history.

Blue Hole A quick stop at Blue Hole in Santa Rosa: it’s a circular cenote-like formation with crystal-clear water, 18 m in diameter, with water at 16°C and 25 m deep. The flow rate of this spring is 11,350 liters of water per minute.

Seriously, it’s worth the detour. You can swim or dive there. We’re now on the Mother Road. You can’t go from Santa Rosa to Tucumcari driving only on Route 66—some sections are buried under the highway, others have disappeared or are impassable. Still, we made a little detour to the ghost town of Cuervo to see the smallest post office. It’s even more run-down and filled with trash than the rest of the town. What a waste! It’s so sad to see such a big part of the past disappearing.

Day 10: Roswell - Tucumcari (continued)

Finally, we’re at our hotel. A little stroll at the very end of the afternoon to check out some legendary hotels!!

The Apache Motel is for sale. Here too, between the fires (especially the one at the Kix, which destroyed the entire interior), sales, and the deterioration of some, there won’t be many left soon (here’s the Apache Motel’s sign on the ground). For now, we’re enjoying the moment and loving the view. So many relics from the golden age of the Mother Road packed into such a short distance—it’s amazing!!!

The sun sets, gifting us its last rays, and the motel neon lights flicker on. It’s gorgeous.



What a treat to get to admire all this!!! Tomorrow, we’re heading to Las Vegas!!! Not the one in Nevada, but the one in New Mexico!!! ;Great meal at Del’s restaurant

Day 11: September 19 – Tucumcari to Las Vegas (the one in New Mexico, of course) Comfort Inn Las Vegas135 € for this hotel with breakfast, fridge, Wi-Fi, pool, and spa. Very friendly welcome.

8:40 AM and we're in the car. We head back to yesterday’s motels because we saw that Tee Pee Curios opens at 8:00, and we’d like to find an authentic New Mexico license plate to add to our collection from other road trips. Bingo!!! They’ve got one, and here it is, ready to join its sisters on the wall of our house. I initially thought about buying it at the New Mexico Rte 66 Museum, but it’s permanently closed. It’s sad how much is shutting down around here. We eventually find the "Route 66" monument, and photograph a lovely mural depicting the Mother Road. But we leave without finding the murals near the County Chamber.

We take the aptly named Mesiland Scenic Byway (NM 104). This road through the sunflowers is a delight, with its red earth, small round hills, herds, and little mountains in the background. We easily forgive its long stretches and endless straight lines. "Look, cowboys!" I scream, "STOP, STOP!" My poor husband was about to drive right past. No one ahead, no one behind, perfect visibility—we can watch them work as ranchers for a little while. There are four of them, on horseback, with a sizable herd of cattle. With their Stetsons firmly on their heads, they skillfully separate some animals from the herd to isolate them.



Hats off to you—done in no time at all!!! A final wave and a "have a good day," and we’re back on the road. The road soon leaves the flat plains and starts climbing. Wedged between a cliff on one side and a mountain with frequent rockfalls on the other, we’re holding on tight!!! A bit more flatland, and we arrive in Las Vegas. It’s too early to check into the hotel. Montezuma Hot Springs I’d spotted some hot springs on private property a little farther north. Let’s go! We search for a while—they’re not very well signposted—then we see the entrance sign, half-hidden by vegetation. They’re pretty in their green setting, but wow, for hot springs, these are *hot* springs. I can’t even dip a toe in the first one, but the others are doable. I didn’t come to just stand around—I’m not in pain at all!!!

DD only dips his feet in, but I spend a few delightful minutes chatting with a young couple whose wife speaks good French. As we’re leaving, she offers us some mushrooms. Which ones? Porcini, saffron milk caps, psilocybin... We’ll never know
F915
F915 but we politely decline.

Picnic on the benches of the Old Plaza in this town with very pretty little houses. It’s the historic district! Some beautiful buildings surround it. In addition to the kiosk you find in plazas, you can admire a statue of the Phoenix rising from its ashes, a reference to the largest wildfire New Mexico has ever known. Right next to this colorful figure, you can also see "El Campesino," a Spanish peasant symbolizing the Hispanic culture of the region.

After settling in, a quick dip in the hotel’s jacuzzi before heading to the Las Vegas National Refuge to drive the short auto-tour loop. The first impression isn’t encouraging—very few birds, closed trails, a poorly maintained park with overflowing trash cans, and the visitor center shut. I think small parks suffer more from budget cuts than the big ones. DD didn’t like it at all, but I loved the prairies with their soft colors, wild grasses, and flowers. I enjoyed the peace of this natural area with its stunning views of the prairies, ponds, and surrounding hills.

Lots of miles again today. We have no desire to leave the room—we’ve got food and a microwave, so we can fill our stomachs! Tomorrow, we’re heading to Taos—another beautiful day of discovery ahead.

Day 12: September 20 – Las Vegas to Taos El Pueblo Lodge179 € for this lovely hotel with a great breakfast, fridge, pool, and spa. It was one of our favorite stays of the trip.

We left Las Vegas at 8:35 AM. The temperature was 10°C with a light breeze. We’re at nearly 2,000 meters, and you can really feel it! Luckily, I’d packed warm clothes. After a gently rolling plain with a few pine trees, the road starts climbing. At the pass, we kept seeing a mailbox—just one. No roads around, just forest!!! We wondered where the people who come to check their mail like this live, right in the middle of nowhere? Past Moran, the road climbs back into the mountains. I was saddened by all the dead trees. Disease? Forest fire? Whole mountainsides are covered in skeletons, with the occasional patch of green from the survivors. A few lighter patches start appearing. Some species are beginning to turn yellow. Autumn is slowly setting in. I’m thrilled—I loved it last year in Colorado!! We follow a small river at the bottom of a gorge. Another stunning road—we didn’t get bored for a second, it’s so beautiful.

We’re not far from Taos now. First stop in Talpa to see the adorable little San Juan de Lagos chapel (1828), unfortunately closed. These adobe buildings are really characteristic of New Mexico. Nearby is the Jesus Nazareno cemetery, very colorful with its large Christ statue. In Ranchos de Taos, we’ll find the San Francisco de Asis church, a Catholic mission built in adobe (1772). Unfortunately, we won’t be able to go inside since it’s closed too.

Day 12 Las Vegas - Taos (continued) Taos I’d planned to visit Taos Pueblo tomorrow, but it’s still early. We’ll go right now—it’ll free up time for tomorrow’s visits. We drive through the pretty town of Taos to reach Taos Pueblo. This village, a UNESCO World Heritage site, feels timeless. Its blocks of houses (some have 5 stories, which residents access by ladders) are built from adobe—a mix of clay, straw, and water, sun-dried into bricks that are stacked and coated with mud. You can see the Pueblo Indians working on their facades since they need to be renovated every year. Some parts of the village are over 1,000 years old, but most were built between the 14th and 17th centuries.



A few Pueblo Indians still live here, while others reside in the nearby tribal reservation. We discover the adobe ovens, called *hornos*, used to bake frybread, bread, and other foods outside the homes. The lovely San Geronimo Church (1850).



And we see the Indians working on the house facades since they need to be redone every year.

It’s extremely clean—nothing’s left lying around. Outside the restricted areas, you can walk around freely as long as you follow certain rules: no photographing the inside of the church or the cemetery, no climbing the ladders or entering homes other than the shops, and no swimming in the stream that divides the village. You can buy Native American crafts here.

For 37 dollars, we had lunch at Aï-Thloo’s Café with two friendly sisters who treated us to a traditional meal (a hearty stuffed tortilla, frybread—which we shared—and two melon lemonades).



We loved the vibe of this meal, eaten at the big table in the sisters’ home. We were joined by an American family with two older teens who tried speaking French, while I struggled with my broken English to chat with our tablemates and our adorable cooks.

Day 12: September 20, Las Vegas to Taos

A few lighter patches are starting to appear. Some trees are beginning to turn yellow. Autumn is slowly setting in. I’m thrilled—I had an amazing time last year in Colorado!! We follow a small river at the bottom of a gorge. Another stunning road, not a dull minute—so much to see!



Hello! About the forests and autumn colors, we were near Santa Fe and Las Vegas about ten days after you, and the mountains were turning fluorescent yellow… It’s truly a magical sight, and it seems hard to predict in advance!

But there were other downsides: Taos Pueblo was closed for a Native American celebration!

Day 12 Las Vegas - Taos (continued and end) After this meal, we cross the bridge spanning the Red Willow Creek, the sacred river that divides the village into two parts. We catch sight of the San Geronimo church, located on the north side, and its pretty portal. The blocks of houses are smaller here, but it’s just as pleasant to stroll around this side. It’s time to leave. We take a quick look at the cemetery and the primitive chapel without going inside.

Some might find this place too touristy, but personally, I loved this little trip back in time. We get back in the car and head toward the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, a large metal arch bridge built in 1963 that towers nearly 200 m above the Rio Grande.

Following a friend’s advice from a group, we took the scenic route back to Taos via Pilar. My hubby hates dirt roads, but what won’t he do for his little wife? At first, the road is paved and runs along the top of the canyon with its dizzying cliffs, but after a few kilometers, it turns into a steep and narrow track in places—though still drivable. Hands clenched on the wheel, tense as a bowstring, DD keeps an eye out for every bump in the terrain. I’m loving it! What a great idea to take this route! We descend leisurely to the bottom of the canyon, where, after crossing the Rio Grande on a small iron bridge, we follow it for several kilometers through stunning scenery.

We pass fishermen, some are kayaking or rafting! What an amazing playground! We’d planned to go all the way to Embudo to see the Classical Gas Museum and its vintage pieces, but we’d rather head back up to Taos to visit the old center, its buildings, and the Plaza—unfortunately under construction. The sunset lights up the murals. It’s gorgeous! We had a great Mexican meal at an unbeatable price in a fun, casual atmosphere at Guadalajara Grill. ($50 for 2 diet colas, 1 beef enchilada, 1 beef fajita, and 3 HUGE churros). What another amazing day! See you tomorrow!

Hi Denis🙂 As you said, it’s really hard to predict the exact timing of the fall colors. It can change in just a few days. We noticed that during our road trip in Colorado. We’d booked two nights in Crested Butte and hit the jackpot—the colors exploded right when we were at Kebler Pass and during our stay. Three days later on the same route, it was way less vibrant. The colors had faded, and a lot of trees had already started shedding their leaves. Too bad about Taos Pueblo. Some of their festivals are also tricky to plan for. Have a great weekend! Marcalamar 🙂

Day 13, September 21 – Taos to Santa Fe El Sendero Inn Ascend Hotel Collection162 € + 10 € for parking at this hotel with no free Wi-Fi and paid breakfast

We left at 7:50 a.m. with a chilly 10 °C. We decided to head to the Chimayó Sanctuary via the scenic High Road to Taos. The road winds through a dense pine forest for a while before passing through small villages. Seeing the huge piles of firewood in front of the houses, you realize winters here must be harsh. We made a quick stop at the charming San José Gracia Chapel in Los Trampas, with its adobe walls, built in 1760—unfortunately, it was closed too. We descended back into the valley via a winding road with stunning views of towering mountains on the horizon. Before reaching the Chimayó Sanctuary, the landscape changed again. As far as the eye could see, there were tall ochre rock formations. They formed long parallel lines, sculpted and barren of vegetation, almost like they were made of sand. We even spotted some hoodoos. It was breathtaking. Chimayó Sanctuary Some compare it to our Lourdes. Pilgrims come to thank Jesus for his protection, and the earth here is said to have healing powers. It’s a mix of the commercial and the religious. At the entrance, there’s the Chapel of Santo Niño de Atocha, with its colorful, naive decor. You can see thousands of baby shoes and even children’s clothes left as offerings.

The adobe church is simple but adorable, with its wooden bell towers and colorful, naive altarpieces.

Whether you’re a believer or not, this place, nestled in a green oasis, is a lovely spot to visit. The garden is beautiful and peaceful.

There’s an art gallery, paintings, stone sculptures, and a carved tree. Everywhere, sculptures and paintings remind you that this land is also home to Native Americans, who considered this place sacred long before the Spanish arrived.

We wandered from chapel to chapel—all the buildings are made of adobe, but inside, everything is colorful in a naive style. Bandelier National Monument After this peaceful interlude, we headed to Bandelier National Monument, another gem of this country. We really enjoyed visiting Mesa Verde and its ladders, so we were excited to do it again. We planned to do the Main Loop Trail and then continue on the Alcove Trail, but unfortunately, the latter was closed. So, we settled for the two-kilometer classic loop. We started in the middle of grass and flowers, passing the ruins of a 14th-century pueblo with its great kiva. We approached the cliff and continued climbing to discover the cliff dwellings via steps carved into the rock and ladders.



It wasn’t hard to imagine the tough life of the first inhabitants, who stayed here for two centuries before settling in the plains. You can even see petroglyphs carved into the cliff. The easy, short walk through the ruins and cliff dwellings—some of which you can enter—was very enjoyable. The return to the car was shaded by the tall trees of the forest.

Day 13, September 21. Taos - Santa Fe (continued) We leave Bandelier National Park for a quick stop at White Rock OVL before heading to Santa Fe. With a few difficulties (our GPS was reluctant to find it) and after driving through some residential areas, we finally arrive—its stunning view over the desert, the White Rock Canyon, the waterfall, and the Rio Grande way in the distance. Unlike in Taos, it’s all muddy here.

Santa Fe We weren’t originally planning to stay overnight here since we had intended to go straight to Albuquerque. But after reading travel journals and chatting with others, I was convinced to make a stop, swapping one night in Taos (which, in the end, doesn’t take long to visit) for Santa Fe. Great decision!!! Not only did it let us visit Bandelier, but what a lovely city!!! No skyscrapers here—the buildings must follow the architectural style with flat roofs and the adobe-colored houses. It’s too early to check into the hotel, so we easily find parking and start exploring. Everything we wanted to see is within a small radius, and we can easily walk from one place to another without getting lost. The adorable San Miguel Chapel is open for visits, which gave us a chance to get some explanations from a very patient guide. Right next door is the oldest house in the city, made of adobe (13th century), if not in the whole country.

We won’t be able to visit it since it’s closed (it’s Sunday). Next up is the Loretto Chapel and its supposedly miraculous spiral staircase before heading to the Cathedral of Francis of Assisi (also closed, unfortunately). We’ll just admire the exterior,

including a lovely statue of a Native American woman. Our last stop is the charming Santa Fe Plaza and its big trees, with the Palace of the Governors right across the street, featuring luxury shops, souvenir vendors, and Pueblo Indians selling their jewelry, crafts, and sand paintings under the arcades lining the palace.



It’s almost 4 PM. We stroll around the neighborhood a bit more, admiring the colorful chili pepper stands. No skyscrapers in Santa Fe—just houses that respect the traditional Pueblo architecture (flat roofs and adobe-colored walls). Time to head back to the hotel. A well-deserved dip in the pool. Tonight, dinner at Cowgirl Grill—it was really good and at a very reasonable price: $68 for 1 big ribs, 1 burger, 1 beer, and a cider in a lovely setting. And with the leftovers we took home, our lunch for tomorrow is all set. Tomorrow, we’ll be in Albuquerque.

Day 14: September 22 – Santa Fe to Albuquerque Econolodge Old Town: $75 for this hotel with a super-friendly front desk, breakfast included, plus a fridge and spa, right next to the old town

We left at 8:50 this morning. Since there were fewer miles to cover, we slept in a bit. It was 16°C. Getting out of the city was a bit chaotic as we tried to find the Turquoise Trail Scenic Byway. A disagreement between the GPS and my prep made for some lively car vibes. 😄 😄😄😄 We eventually found the right road without knowing who was actually right. Another vast, flat plain stretched out before us, with towering mountains in the distance.

Cerrillos Our first stop was Cerrillos. There’s not much left now—just a few houses, a museum, and some shops. Turquoise is everywhere. In the shops: And even on the pillars of the houses:

The town is pure Western style, with lots of unpaved sections. You almost expect to see cowboys and their horses riding down the street. Back in the day, it was thriving—complete with a theater, 4 hotels, and 21 saloons—when Native American artisans worked with turquoise and lead. Today, it’s practically a ghost town, but we love that the style has been preserved in the newer buildings, which still use stucco and colored sand finishes.

The road continues between the rounded hills dotted with small green bushes.

Madrid We arrived in Madrid—less authentic than Cerrillos, but it also had its heyday when miners extracted gold and coal. Now, it’s a colorful, lively little town where artisans and artists sell their work. Once again, turquoise is everywhere—this road really lives up to its name!

The houses are in varying states of repair:

I loved wandering around in that Peace and Love vibe, full of humor and surprises.

After Madrid, the hills grow taller but stay just as rounded, with those little green bushes contrasting against the yellow grasses. It’s stunning. Soon, another dry plain replaces them, stretching as far as the eye can see. We’ll see them again after Golden, with its little church on a hill (another San Francisco de Asis): And the delightful chaos of the sweet eccentric who collects bikes and bottles to display by the roadside.

We spotted quite a few pretty ranch entrances, but no herds! Mystery!!!

Albuquerque Albuquerque was only about 50 km away. We’d arrive at the hotel too early. Normally, we have a picnic lunch and eat out in the evening. But there were no tables along the way to set down the cooler, so today we did the opposite—dinner in the room and lunch at the Diner 66, as originally planned for tonight.

We drove down Central Avenue, the historic Route 66, and saw people experiencing homelessness of all ages on the sidewalks and in the streets. Some had their whole lives packed into a shopping cart, others made wild gestures, while some just seemed completely lost. So much hardship along this major artery, where gas stations, all kinds of shops, restaurants, boarded-up buildings, abandoned motels, and vast empty lots all mix together.

The moment we stepped into the Diner 66, we were transported back to the 1950s—neon lights, a jukebox, turquoise booths, waitresses in uniform, and music. You half-expected Richie Cunningham and Fonzie with his pompadour to walk through the door (a throwback for those of us who remember). Nothing like McDonald’s—we got to customize our meals! And the desserts? Monstrous! At home, we’d have shared the cake among three people, and they must’ve used an entire chocolate bar for the topping. We left with a doggy bag!!!

After checking in (so glad we picked a motel near the old town), the rain started. Since we couldn’t go to the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center (closed Mondays) or the Natural History Museum (temporarily closed), we decided to take a dip in the pool instead.

We took advantage of a lull in the rain to visit the San Felipe de Neri Church and its convent: And to see the stunning Old Town Plaza:

With our motel in such a perfect location, it was just a few minutes’ walk away. The plaza is lined with all kinds of shops—from chic jewelry stores to stalls run by Mexicans and Native Americans selling their crafts and turquoise jewelry, not to mention the cluttered Trading Post and the artist’s studio with incredible portraits of locals.

There are also a few large multi-story houses, different from the usual adobe buildings around the plaza.

We were surprised to see several doors and windows protected by heavy grates. Tradition? Safety concerns? I’ll never know.

By the time we finished browsing the shops, the gray skies had cleared, and the sun came back out. It was even prettier.

Another fantastic day. I was worried I’d be a little disappointed with this road trip after all the wonders we’ve seen since we started visiting the U.S.!!! But every day has brought its share of amazing discoveries, and we still have 8 days left. We’re going to make the most of it!

Day 15 – September 23 – Albuquerque to Gallup Sleep Inn Gallup: 93 € for this quiet little hotel with breakfast, microwave, fridge, spa, and pool

8 a.m. We left the hotel. Several hot-air balloons flew over us—it’s common in Albuquerque. It’s one of their main attractions. The line to get into the city was impressive, but luckily, we were heading out. To reach Gallup, we regularly left Interstate 40 to take sections of the historic Route 66. First stop: Rio Puerco. This bridge was built in 1933 over the Rio Puerco, known for its violent floods. It’s just under 100 meters long and has no central pillar. Today, only pedestrians can use it. Near the bridge is the Route 66 Casino Hotel sign with its two massive pumps.

Another vast plain, but red rocks start to appear. The road passes through Dead Man’s Curve and its red sandstone cliffs. Too funny—Owl Rock (the owl)—with a little imagination, you can see it. Laguna Pueblo This is a region where Native Americans have lived since 1300 AD. The pueblo sits on a hill, and you can see the Saint Joseph Church from afar with its whitewashed facades. It was closed, like most of the churches we tried to enter. We saw the round ovens again. This village seems very poor; the houses don’t look like those in Taos Pueblo. There’s a building for “Catholicization.”

We got back on the historic Route 66 for a short detour to Budville Trading Company, a former gas station from 1928 to 1994. The gas pump is gone, but a few neon signs remain. This trip back in time searching for remnants is really enjoyable. We arrive in Grants with its pretty murals.

From the Roaring 20’s speakeasy, a prohibition-era illegal bar, only this relic remains. We immortalized our presence on Route 66 by taking a photo under the Route 66 Neon Drive-Thru Sign (don’t ask me for the translation—I didn’t quite get it). If you’re interested, take exit 85 on I-40. Both are right on Santa Fe Avenue and very visible. We hit the road again. We’re about 60 km from Red Rock State Park, and little by little, the red rocks appear in the distance. It’s awesome! I’ve been waiting for them for a while! The sun’s out—our hike’s going to be amazing. When you’re on sections of the historic Route 66, you regularly see signs for old abandoned motels standing sadly alone with nothing around. And when buildings remain, they’re fenced off and overgrown or turned into junkyards. What a sad end!!! Well, that’s life—let’s move on to something happier. A hike is coming up!!! Yay, yay, yay!!!

Day 15 Albuquerque-Gallup (continued) Hike on Church Rock Trail We didn’t walk much this year because of the long distances between stops, so when a hike comes up, it’s a celebration!!! I’m in love with red rocks!!! Red Rock State Park. Just the name puts me in a trance!! We chose to walk the Church Rock Trail, a loop that’s supposed to be 4 km, 1 hour, and 78 m of elevation gain. That should be easy. It lives up to its name—magnificent red rocks welcome us. We’re greeted by prairie dogs, then the hike starts off easy on a sandy, flat path with today’s goal in sight. But very quickly, we start climbing gently but steadily. The slide rock is everywhere, and the trail is narrow, but the view of the canyons is so beautiful. We see the sandstone spires of Church Rock in the distance. It goes up, then down, following huge cairns. We cross a dried-up stream when suddenly we’re faced with steps carved into the cliff rock.

Oh boy, I’m not feeling great about this. The slope is steep and rocky. If we have to go back down this way, we’re not getting to the car anytime soon. We climb four sets of steep steps and ladders before reaching the plateau (if you look closely, you can see them in the photo when zoomed in). From there, we have a choice: head left toward the pyramid at the cairn (but the car would be too far from the end) or go right and pass by the base of Rock Church. That’s what we’ll do. The return is easy, and luckily, the loop doesn’t take us back through the carved rocks. It’s supposed to take an hour (it took us 1h30) and have 78 m of elevation gain (I’m convinced there’s way more). Another stunning hike. Gallup is only about fifteen km from the park. Visit to the magnificent Historic El Rancho Hotel We wanted to eat there, but it was too crowded. So we head into town to look for the Navajo Code Talker mural (which we won’t find). However, at the Navajo Code Talkers Museum (closed), we can admire the statues honoring the Navajo soldiers who transmitted coded messages in their complex Navajo language—undecipherable by the enemy during World War II, especially in the Pacific.

We search and find the huge Dude Man statue. Right next to it, there’s a small restaurant, Daniel’s Steak House. Why not? We’re a bit tired of walking. We end up there, and for $67, we get 1 Diet Coke, 1 beer, and 2 Shrimp Alfredo—very good, but the atmosphere isn’t great. Friendly but a bit gloomy. What another amazing day. Tonight, I’ll be dreaming of red rocks and the Mother Road

Day 16: September 24. Gallup-Holbrook Day’s Inn by Windham:$75 for this hotel with breakfast, fridge, microwave, pool, and spa.

We just spent our last night in New Mexico. Tonight, we’ll sleep in Arizona. Departure at 8 AM. It’s 6 °C, but luckily it’ll warm up during the day. Before leaving Gallup and its old signs, I managed to find the mural honoring the Navajo Code Talkers. It’s early, and part of the mural is in the shade—too bad!!



We follow the railroad and its endless trains. I counted one with 179 cars pulled by 3 locomotives and pushed by 2 others, but some are even longer. As yesterday, we’re zigzagging between Route 66 and I-40. Quick stop at the stunning Painted Cliffs, where I’d spotted Chief Yellowhorse’s shop. More red rocks—they actually inspired the director of the animated movie *Cars*. Due to the time change when crossing into Arizona, we had to set our watches back an hour. So, it’s not quite 8 AM, and it’s closed. Oh well, we’ll just enjoy this massive red rock and its Hole in the Wall after browsing some Navajo-run shops for a bit. There are some gorgeous pieces, but they’re ridiculously expensive, and photography is forbidden. We spotted vending machines for drinks and snacks completely enclosed in a wire cage. There’s only a small opening to pay and retrieve the items. So weird!!! The miles fly by. We still see so many abandoned motels (the Fort Courage area is in terrible shape, but the ruined buildings show how important it must have been back in Route 66’s heyday), desert landscapes, and most of the small houses scattered in the countryside aren’t in great condition. Poverty seems to be everywhere.

9:25 AM—we arrive at Petrified Forest National Park (2.5 hours after our departure). The ranger checking our America the Beautiful pass is about as friendly as a prison door. Coming from Gallup, we take the north entrance and start with the Painted Desert, stopping at the various viewpoints. Right away, we’re immersed. The first stop is an amphitheater opening onto a vast red desert. Hills, dips, canyons, flat expanses with a few mesas, dried-up rivers, each overlook is different from the last—whether in color, depending on the rock composition, or in shape—though red dominates.

Some offer stunning gradients, while others are more uniform.

The short, easy 1.5-kilometer walk we took along the edge of the amphitheater between Tawa Point and the Kachina Point visitor center—perfectly integrated into the landscape—let us admire the formations below. A super-friendly ranger at the visitor center told us about great hikes deep in the formations, but that would’ve required a full day in the park with two nights in Holbrook, which we’d considered but ultimately dropped due to lack of time. Oh well, we’re not complaining—we’re in another incredible place we’re lucky to see. The viewpoints are all more beautiful than the last.

Quick stop at the 1932 Studebaker, exactly where Route 66 used to cross the park. Just before crossing the bridge over the highway, leading us to the part of the park with the petrified trees

Day 16 Gallup to Holbrook (continued): Petrified Forest

The road also passes over the Santa Fe Railroad and its endless trains. Just like with the Painted Desert, the points of interest in this part of the park will enchant us with the variety of their landscapes over the 42 km that will take us to the Rainbow Forest Museum at the park’s southern entrance. Still the desert as far as the eye can see, with a few mesas. It replaced the swamps and vast coniferous forests inhabited by dinosaurs 200 million years ago, and the trunks were transformed into quartz through the fossilization process. We start seeing them here and there. The names are evocative: Puerco Pueblo (where we could have discovered the ruins of an Anasazi village), but we chose not to visit it, and Newspaper Rock with its hieroglyphs, which we missed.

The Teepees You can photograph these pretty striped conical hills from the road.

After the Teepees, the red gradually disappears, and gray dominates. You can see canyons. We cross stunning badlands with a few hoodoos in formation and no vegetation at all.

Blue Mesa Scenic Road At first, the landscape is less mineral, less dry—there are even a few green bushes and some grass—but we quickly find the badlands again along the Blue Mesa trail loop.

The overlook overlooking the area isn’t too far and is easy to access. You can stop there and already take in the views, but the real highlight is continuing along the steep trail that descends to the bottom of the canyon before winding for 1.6 km through spectacular formations in shades of gray, purple, and even violet. It’s almost surreal, and the increasingly numerous fossilized trunks add even more magic to the place!! The trunks were underground; tectonic plate movements lifted them, and they broke, as if cut with a knife. The climb back up is a bit steep for non-hikers, but the walk at the bottom is definitely worth the effort.

Crystal Forest We tackle the easy and very pleasant little loop of Crystal Forest, aptly named given the high concentration of these petrified trunks. Some have magnificent colors; they’re all different. On others, you can still see the bark from when they were alive 220 million years ago.

And all of this with a stunning view of the surrounding landscape. We’re nearing the exit. I spare DD the 2.5 km of the Long Logs Trail, which would’ve let us discover even larger specimens (yes, yes, I know—my kindness will be my downfall). I’m joking; we’ve been on the road for two weeks, and I’ve been squeezing him like a lemon!!!

Rainbow Forest Museum A very interesting little stop at this visitor center, where you can see some dinosaur skeletons and paleontological exhibits with lots of explanations about the fossilization process.

Giants Logs Trail We go back to walk the 600 m trail next to it, where we can discover, among other things, an immense specimen.

All that’s left is to head to our hotel, then the super cute little town of Holbrook and its Wigwam Hotel, which inspired the creator of the animated movie *Cars*. What an amazing day. We could’ve spent hours more there. The drive back to Holbrook is quick. Another reference to *Cars* with the Wigwam Motel, its teepees, and its old cars—just like Tom and Suzie’s Diner, though the latter is closed. So we go to the Butterfield Steak House, where we blow the budget with two porterhouse steaks, one diet cola, and a beer for $138 (very good). In bed, I think about the extraordinary landscapes we’ve just crossed. This park is a gem. We absolutely must preserve it for future generations.

Day 17: September 25 – Holbrook to Flagstaff Super 8 by Wyndham Nav downtown: 88 euros for a very friendly welcome at this hotel with breakfast, free Wi-Fi, fridge, pool, and spa

We left at 8 AM with 14°C outside. Filled up the tank—gas is cheap here at $2.95 per gallon in Holbrook. I’d spotted a few points of interest to photograph, and we kept having fun hopping off I-40 to join Route 66. First stop at the Jack Rabbit Trading Post, but it was closed. We didn’t wait more than 20 minutes! Just a few photos and a quick climb on the giant rabbit. Then we headed to Winslow to see the totem pole. This stunning totem was carved on-site before being moved. It’s a 9-meter-high, 1.4-meter-wide trunk from 1979, honoring Indigenous peoples (respect and recognition). From there, we made a quick stop at Standing on the Corner—just a few dozen meters away—where a street musician greeted us. So cool!!!! We had fun taking photos (we weren’t the only ones!!!) with the bronze statues at the intersection, paying tribute to the Eagles (that’s Glenn Frey, the band’s founder) and Route 66. Besides the statues and a beautiful mural, you’ll find a pair of wings where everyone can dream of their next flight. There’s also a huge Route 66 shield right in the middle of the intersection. We followed the railroad tracks. At one point, the locomotive and cars from all four lanes of I-40 seemed to merge into a single line across the bleak desert plain.

Meteor City Trading Post, with its dinosaurs and vintage cars, was closed too—it doesn’t open until 10 AM. We’re definitely not having much luck; I think we’re getting up too early!!! We skipped Meteor Crater on purpose—it’s too expensive. $29 to see a crater caused by a meteorite impact? They’re really overcharging! Even if it does look amazing. Plus, with our basic English, we wouldn’t have understood much anyway. Final detour to the ruins of the Twin Arrows Trading Post. Another iconic spot, now just tagged walls and a roof. One of the arrows is gone too. I hope the message written there isn’t prophetic. Poor Route 66! What have they done to you? 😢 Just before the exit to see the arrows, the massive Navajo casino looms over the yellow plain, greedily waiting for someone to leave a few dollars behind. Lots of trucks on the road despite the rail transport. Some of them are stunning.

Day 17 Holbrook to Flagstaff (continued) Walnut Canyon National Monument

We leave the highway once again to head to Walnut Canyon National Monument. We finally left that endless plain for a little mountain road through the pine trees. What a lovely surprise this small park is, located at over 2,000 meters in altitude. The ranger at the entrance hears we’re French and, with a big smile, gives us the translation along with the flyer. The visitor center is built among the pines on a plateau overlooking a U-shaped canyon. We could’ve explored the canyon from above by walking the Rim Trail, but we prefer to go down via the Island Trail hike, which takes us to discover the cliff dwellings built by the Sinagua Indians. This 1.6 km loop with its 273 steps takes us 53 meters down to the canyon floor. There, the little trail runs along the cliff where the natives took advantage of every overhang to build their homes with stone walls (early 1100s). Up to 300 rooms were counted in the canyon, which they left 800 years ago. Some structures are still in very good condition.

We alternate between trail and stairs.

The walk is easy; we can see Douglas firs covering one of the canyon slopes.

It smells like pine, a few flowers here and there add a splash of color, and there’s no noise. It’s so peaceful! On one of the slopes, we discover more structures. Okay, that’s enough sightseeing—we’ve gone around the rocky pinnacle, and now we have to climb back up to the visitor center. We’ll take it easy, no rush. There are even benches along the way to catch our breath because all those steps really get the heart pumping. Flagstaff isn’t far now, and we get there quickly. It’s noon, and the Galaxy Diner is calling our names. For 55 dollars, we get two huge burgers and two Diet Pepsis. Our stomachs are full, but it’s still too early. We visit the old train station and its massive emblem. An employee at the visitor center inside tells me where to find the giant statue of Louie the Lumberjack, the brother of Gallup’s Dude Man. He’s in the student district, and for the first time in our lives, we see robots rolling along the sidewalks. We learn they’re there to deliver meals. Check-in time has arrived. We’ll drop off our luggage and head back out in the late afternoon. Darn, the sky’s getting dark. We decide to take a quick trip to the spa to relax. It’s getting darker, thunder starts rumbling, and lightning streaks across the sky. Soon, torrents of rain and hail come crashing down on Flagstaff! We’ll stay dry in the hotel and eat our leftover picnic lunch in the room. The weekend’s looking rainy, and our hikes in Sedona seem pretty iffy. Oh well, carpe diem—we’ll see what happens and adapt tomorrow.

Day 17 Holbrook to Flagstaff (continued) It’s in the student district, and for the first time in our lives, we see robots rolling along the sidewalks. We’ll later find out they’re there to deliver meals. Check-in time has arrived, so we’ll drop off our suitcases and head back out in the late afternoon. Darn, the sky’s getting dark—we decide to take a quick trip to the spa to relax. It’s getting blacker by the minute, thunder starts rumbling, and lightning streaks across the sky. Soon, torrents of rain and hail come crashing down on Flagstaff!!! We’ll stay dry in the hotel and eat our midday picnic in the room. The weekend looks rainy, so our hikes in Sedona seem pretty iffy. Oh well, carpe diem—we’ll see how it goes and adapt tomorrow.

That storm in Flagstaff was pretty wild! I had the same thing in August 2022—torrential rain! 😎

Hi Martine,

In your hotel choices, you mention MO. What does that stand for?

Best regards,

Hello! 🙂 Microwave. Really handy if breakfast isn’t included or for reheating leftovers. Have a great day! Marcalamar 🙂