1 month in northern Laos (Oct 23 to Nov 24, 2025) (page 2 of 5)

(continuing Oct 31)

A cute little girl with an irresistible smile.



I continue on a rough track, forcing me to push my bike, leading to a complex with a beautiful view and several temples.





I head back to the village, wander around in every direction, and then make my way to the pottery house in Ban Chan Nua. At the village exit, the hill is steep, so I have to get off my bike again. When I arrive in Ban Chan Nua, signs point to the pottery house. It’s a bamboo house with pottery displayed on the ground floor, and it looks like there are rooms upstairs. The place is deserted, and a man shows up just as I’m leaving. I return to the ferry back in Luang Prabang, I have lunch at a small restaurant along the Mekong. I hang out at the night market as it sets up, then wander into an alley where they sell cooked dishes—some more appetizing than others.





Wat Phonxay Xayxana is open, so I take the opportunity to visit.





A little foot massage will do me a world of good—it’s so relaxing. (100,000 kip) Tonight, I’m dining at Bamboo Tree, where I’m starting to become a regular. I order fish cooked in a banana leaf—it’s delicious and filling.

Saturday, November 1st. Woke up at 5 AM, and I slept really badly last night. Knee pain and headaches make me think the weather’s about to change—rain shouldn’t be far off. Still, I get up to attend the Tak Bat ceremony; I won’t regret it.

I arrive on the street, which is still practically deserted. Stools, bowls, and large trash bins are set up along the sidewalk. Tourists who wish to can honor the alms-giving with a contribution. Groups of Chinese visitors arrive and take their seats on the stools. The gong sounds at 5:45 AM, and the monks arrive in single file starting at 6 AM. They pass in front of each seated person and fill their bowls. Once a bowl is full, the monk empties it into the large trash bins. The food (rice, cookies, candy, etc.) is then collected and distributed to those in need. I don’t see any locals participating in the distribution—I get the strong impression it’s only happening to satisfy tourists, so I head back to the guesthouse quickly.





This morning, I planned a boat trip to the Pak Ou Caves. I arrive at the pier at 8 AM and have to wait half an hour. Once on the boat, we head in the same direction as when I arrived, and I realize these caves are the ones I visited on my first day here!!!! We stop in a village that’s certainly different from the one last week, but we see the same things. We continue to the caves, which are, of course, identical, and I can’t help but smile—well played, silly me!!





I get a message that my train for tomorrow, booked through 12Go Asia, is canceled. Everything’s going wrong today. They offer me either a later train with a 12:50 PM departure, but I have to wait until 7 PM for confirmation, or cancel. When I return to Luang Prabang, after receiving several messages, I have to make a decision. I stop by a few agencies and book a bus ticket for 7 AM tomorrow, even though I know the trip will take over 6 hours. I cancel the train ticket, hoping I’ll get a refund. I get another message saying I can’t cancel yet—I have to wait for the 7 PM offer. Finally, the train is full, and this time they accept my cancellation. It’s all so complicated, especially since I had the ticket with my seat, the QR code—everything seemed fine. I end the day with a stroll and dinner at a restaurant near the guesthouse run by a guy from Toulouse, but I didn’t pick well—it’s not great. Well, today hasn’t been great overall.

Once on the boat, we head in the same direction as when I arrived, and then I realize these caves are the ones I visited on my first day!!!! We continue to the caves, which are obviously the same ones, and I smile—well played, silly me!!

I get it now... Some really pretty caves, but there’s no need to visit them twice!

Sunday, Nov 2. At 7 AM, the minibus picks me up. Three people are already on board, and we pick up another one a bit further down the road. It’s comfortable traveling with just five of us. The driver is on the phone the whole time. After about an hour, he pulls over to the side of the road, makes a long call, and we wait for ages. Another minibus arrives, they exchange a few words, then it leaves, and we’re still stuck. After another hour, he finally decides to start driving again, and we ride for one more hour. We arrive at a large muddy lot where trucks, minibuses, and cars are parked. The road is closed in one direction, and in the other, vehicles are moving at a crawl. The driver makes us get out, we grab our luggage, and he takes us to the minibus we’d passed earlier. It’s hard to find a seat, but we all manage to sit down. We wait another hour before leaving, then drive for another hour before finally stopping at a restaurant for a one-hour break. We pass through hilly, karst landscapes on the way to Vang Vieng—it’s stunning.



I continue to Vientiane, arriving at 7 PM. A tuk-tuk takes me to the hotel—the ride lasts 20 minutes and costs 100,000 kip. I didn’t negotiate; I was too tired and just wanted to get there. I have a large room, and the hotel is really nice. Tonight, I dine at the hotel restaurant. I go to bed early, exhausted from the journey. I wake up in the middle of the night with a headache—it’s annoying, especially since I don’t usually get them.

Monday, Nov 3. When I wake up, I find water on the desk and the floor right under the AC. I go find an employee, who follows me, looks, and leaves without saying anything. Breakfast is included in the room price, and it’s a buffet. I keep it classic with eggs, a baguette, butter, jam, and fruit. Before heading out, I stop by reception—they tell me I’m changing rooms, but none are available yet, so I have to repack. The hotel is well located, and I can do my sightseeing on foot. A small alley leads to the Wat Dam Stupa, or Black Stupa. It’s in the middle of a roundabout and covered in vegetation.

An old house catches my eye—I go inside, and the decor is vintage.



There’s no one around, but on the side, I see a terrace with a bar. I continue to Wat Sisaket (entry: 30,000 kip). It’s in the city center, in a large garden.





Photos are forbidden inside—too bad, because the murals are beautiful. It’s the oldest temple in Vientiane. The outer walkways are lined with Buddhas.

Across the street is Wat Ho Phra Kéo. Here, too, photos are forbidden inside, and the corridors outside are lined with beautiful Buddha statues.



I pass by Chao Anouvong Park, where the king’s statue is located.

I continue to Wat Impeng. When I arrive, I meet a French couple with a Lao guide, and the woman looks at me and says, "But you’re MarieJo!" I’m surprised because I don’t know her. I didn’t realize I was so famous!! She introduces herself—she’s Elisabeth from the forum where we’ve exchanged messages about this trip. What a surprise!!! Two statues guard the staircase leading to the temple. Frescoes decorate the walls and ceiling. The entrance door is gilded and beautifully decorated.

I don’t see any locals taking part in the distribution—I really got the impression it was only happening to satisfy the tourists, so I headed back to the hostel pretty quickly.

Looks like you enjoyed it as much as I did

That said, we met two travelers a few days later who told us that in the small side streets perpendicular to where this circus was happening, the ceremony had been much more pleasant. No tourists, just a few locals and the monks parading around.

I see you enjoyed it as much as I did

I had a feeling, but I was too curious not to check it out. Plus, I was upset seeing the monks throwing food into big trash bags. Later, I found out they distribute it to those in need. At least some people benefit from it.

Tuesday, November 4th. This morning I set off for a walk along the Mekong, hoping to find a nice neighborhood, but after several kilometers I didn’t find anything interesting and headed to Patuxai, the Arc de Triomphe, passing by embassies and the presidential palace.



I walk up the wide avenue lined with banks, temples, and a French school that leads to a square where Patuxai is located.

I go up (entrance 30,000 kip). On the first floor, a series of photos traces the history of Laos. A staircase leads to the terrace where you can see the city. View of the fountains

the prime minister’s palace.



I go down and cross the gardens with fountains that light up in the evening, and at the end I discover the World Peace Gong.

I continue to Pha That Luang, the golden stupa where the festival is taking place. This monument is the most sacred in the country, a symbol of Laos, and it’s said to contain a hair of Buddha inside.

I arrive at a huge square. The fair is set up for the festival, with food stalls, clothes, souvenirs, beauty products, household items, and even cars. I buy some sushi and find a picnic area where I can sit and eat in the shade.

The crowd gradually arrives, and you still have to walk 200 meters to get closer to the stupa. To enter the inner courtyard and walk around the stupa, tourists must rent traditional outfits (30,000 kip).

Laotians in traditional clothing arrive and happily pose for photos.

Wednesday, November 5 I arrive around 9:30 AM at the Boun That Luang festival. The monks are scattered across the square. They’ve set up tables, and on each one, there are cauldrons where Lao people can leave their offerings. Many of them have stacks of 1000-kip bills—it’s mostly the women who place them in each cauldron. At this hour, the monks are starting to fold up the tables.







The atmosphere is great; the Lao people are very smiley and happy to pose for one or more photos. Some of them speak a little French, and we’re all happy to chat.







By late morning, I leave the site and head to the bus station, which is over 2 km away.

(continuing Nov 5)

When I arrived at the station, I spotted bus 14 to take me to Buddha Park, 24 km from Vientiane. I was the first to board, but it quickly filled up. A woman sat next to me and told stories while laughing, but I didn’t understand a word—still, I laughed along with her. The bus dropped me off right in front of the entrance to Buddha Park, or Xieng Khuan (entry: 60,000 kips). It’s Laos’ version of the "Facteur Cheval."



As I entered, I was surprised to see so many statues scattered across a large garden. They varied in size, and some were quite intriguing. There are over 200 of them, representing Hindu and Buddhist deities. Near the entrance, a giant vegetable-shaped structure on three levels—representing Hell, Earth, and Heaven—caught my eye. To enter, you have to pass through the mouth of a demon over 3 meters tall. Once inside Hell, you climb stairs all the way up to Heaven. Each level has multiple representations. When you reach Heaven, you arrive on a terrace where you can truly appreciate the park’s vastness.

- A statue of a huge reclining Buddha caught my attention—it’s over 40 meters long, and everything here is on a massive scale.



I wandered around peacefully, discovering one surprise after another among all these statues. I really liked this place—it had a touch of madness to it.







Back in Vientiane, it was still early, so I headed back to the fair, which was as lively as ever.

Thursday, Nov 6. Departure for Vang Vieng. The minibus picks me up at the hotel around 8:30 AM. I’m the last one to get on, and there’s only one seat left at the back. By 11 AM, I’m already at the hotel, which is slightly off-center from the town and the main road. The hotel is simple, the welcome is warm, and I have a large room—simple and clean, which is what matters. When I arrive, the town looks really dusty and not very pretty. At the hotel, I see some tour offers on the counter with an agency, including the possibility of a hot-air balloon ride ($100). I go for the flight and book it for the next day; they’ll pick me up at 5 AM. It’s scorching hot and humid—really unpleasant. Today, I just explore the town. The hotel owner suggests visiting a cave at the other end of town, which will give me a chance to take a walk. I take an alley along the river with beautiful scenery.



Tham Chang Cave (entrance 20,000 kips). As I arrive, I hear French being spoken all around. This cave was used during the war against the Chinese in the 19th century and later during the civil war.

The visit starts with climbing 147 steep stone steps. As soon as you enter, you feel a refreshing coolness. For the tour, you just follow the well-lit path.



Well, honestly, it’s nothing to write home about!

At the exit, you can swim in a pool or relax on the lawns. A belvedere offers beautiful views of the river and the karst landscapes.

I see there's someone else here just as interested in temple visits as I am...🙂

Friday, November 7th Once again, I didn’t sleep well—I’ve got knee pain, a sign of bad weather coming in the next few days. At 5 AM, someone picks me up. There are six of us in the truck, and we’re driven out to the countryside to the hot-air balloon takeoff point. When we arrive, the crew is busy setting up under the watchful eye of the boss, who’s Franco-Swiss. He has us fill out an info sheet with our name and weight.

Inflating the balloon.



The hot-air balloons are unfolded, and all that’s left is to inflate them. The first step is filling them with cold air on the ground, then with hot air to lift and position them vertically. It’s pretty spectacular. An employee holds the balloon steady by pulling on a rope.



Lift-off and takeoff of the hot-air balloon. The pilot fires up the burner, shooting out giant flames, and the balloon begins its impressive ascent. Once it’s stabilized in a vertical position, all we have to do is climb in. To balance the weight, four people get in at the front and four at the back. We’re given final instructions: don’t move around in the basket so we don’t destabilize the balloon. The pilot keeps heating the balloon before it gently lifts off the ground, and the flight begins. The ride is smooth, and the movement is very slow. We rise to 900 meters. The landscapes are spectacular.









The landing field is in a field. Before touching down, we all have to crouch as low as possible in the basket. Once on the ground, the basket keeps moving with the balloon, and employees run to slow it down and stop it. Once it’s stationary, we can stand up and climb out.



A building serving as a canteen invites us to enjoy breakfast with fruits and local treats. The flight lasted 40 minutes—it went by fast. The views from the sky are stunning, but I found the movement a bit too slow. Back at the hotel, I rent an electric scooter and head out, more cautious and experienced, to explore the lagoons.

[/]I see there’s someone else as interested as I am in visiting temples...]

Welcome Joël! Yep, I visit a lot of temples, but I try to mix it up—it’s gonna start getting tough on the calves and thighs... but what a joy to finally get there😉

(continuing Nov 7)

Before leaving, I test it out in the hotel courtyard. It’s lighter than the previous one, and I feel more comfortable on it. I need to send a message to the hotel once I arrive at the first lagoon. I make stops all along the way to admire the rice field landscapes and karst peaks—it’s truly stunning, a feast for the eyes.

I start with lagoon #1, or the Blue Lagoon—it’s the most popular, and there are quite a few of us here to check it out. You can swim here and even try the zipline.



Next to the lagoon is Tham Phu Kham cave. A steep climb up a rocky path with about 200 steps gets you to the entrance. The first chamber, lit by natural light, houses a reclining Buddha. From there, you’ll need a headlamp and follow the arrows painted on the rocks. I venture in alone—some French travelers decided not to go. I have to be really careful; the path is pitch-dark, the rocks are slippery, and I don’t hear a sound. The atmosphere is eerie—it’s almost scary. I don’t know how deep it goes or how long it’ll take to explore, so I move slowly, keeping an eye out for the arrows. Just a few steps from the exit, I run into the two French women who finally decided to do the loop and are relieved to see me. They’d started to worry I might’ve gotten lost or fallen, so they came looking for me. They even thank me because if I hadn’t gone, they wouldn’t have either. But really, I should be thanking *them* for looking out for me. Such awesome girls.

I hop back on the scooter and head toward lagoon #2. It’s really pretty here too, and you can swim. There’s a narrow, wobbly bridge crossing the basin—lots of people try to cross it, and many end up falling into the water before reaching the other side. I watch them for a while.



I walk around the basins before hitting the road again—I like this one better than the first.





Time to head to a viewpoint. Nam Xay View Point isn’t too far. At the starting point, a sign says the climb takes about half an hour. By the time I arrive, rain starts pouring, so I wait a bit under cover before deciding to go for it. The climb is pretty steep, and the path is slippery with lots of rocks. Luckily, you can hold onto the bamboo at the trickier spots, which makes it easier. The last stretch is really steep, and I’m happy to reach the top. Most of the tourists here are French. The 360° views are breathtaking and impressive—I don’t regret the effort at all.



Below the peak on either side, there’s a motorcycle on display, and you can climb down to take a photo with it.

Alright, one last shot before heading down.



I descend slowly, being extra careful—all those rocks are super slippery. I make it down without any issues, take a moment to rest, and grab a sugarcane juice before heading back to Vang Vieng. What an amazing day!

Saturday, Nov 8th. This morning it's raining, the sky is overcast, and the beautiful landscapes have disappeared. I was supposed to head out on the scooter for the day, but I’m giving up—I’ll just adapt to the weather. The baby in the house is drawing all the attention.



I got a WhatsApp message from the agency that handled my train ticket booking back to L.P. They say I need to pay a supplement to travel in first class. My credit card isn’t working, but the receptionist agrees to take care of it. After the transaction, I get my ticket—what a relief! I haven’t had much luck with transportation on this trip; bad luck has been following me since the start. I head into town, decked out in a poncho and a rain hat. I stop at a bakery for a pineapple juice and can’t resist adding a chocolate cake. The cake has no flavor, sticks to my teeth, and is rubbery—basically, I’m not enjoying it and leave it on the plate. The sun seems to be coming back, so I return to the hotel to drop off my rain gear. I set off to visit Angel Cave, 2 km away. The landscapes are still stunning—I love this place.



There are lots of people and activities here (canoeing, ziplining, tubing, and the cave). I only visit the cave, which is quite deep and well-lit.



The zipline looks tempting, but I just watch others descend, screaming. It’s pretty dizzying. I didn’t bring clothes for the tubing tour, and I have my camera, so I just daydream instead.



Tonight, I’m dining at « OH LALA » Restaurant. The place is packed, and several of us are waiting for tables to free up. I order ginger fish with rice and try the Lao beer—I’m not a big beer fan, but I manage to drink it.





I head back in the rain. I really liked Vang Vieng—too bad the rain kind of ruined my visits.

Tomorrow, the tuk-tuk will pick me up at 9:45 AM.

Sunday, Nov 9. As planned, the tuk-tuk is on time, and in 10 minutes I’m at the station. The building is brand new and huge. There are lots of Chinese people in the square taking selfies and photos.



At the entrance, we have to show the ticket QR code and our passport. Luggage goes through a scanner. The hall is split in two—one side for Chinese travelers, the other for tourists. The middle is empty.



Ten minutes before the train arrives, the doors open. We line up single file to go through another check to reach the platform. The train is right on time, and the car positions are clearly marked. I’m in the last car at the end of the platform. The seats are comfy and reclinable. The trip only lasts an hour. When I leave L.P. station, I see lots of cars. A taxi offers his services and asks for 200,000 kips. I have no idea what the rate should be, but I negotiate it down to 150,000. The station is far from the city. I go back to Phai GH, which is well-located and friendly. I don’t get the same room—it’s smaller, but for one night, it’ll be fine. I pick up my bag where I’d left scissors and nail clippers. :) I head out to exchange money and buy a bus ticket for tomorrow morning. I keep wandering down my street to the temple, where I’m the only visitor.



Across from it, there are several restaurants, and I choose one with terrace armchairs. From there, I head back into town, buy some pastries for breakfast tomorrow, and stop by the night market for a few small purchases. The photogenic beautiful house—little nod to Kate.



I go to Bamboo for dinner. It’s packed tonight. I end up waiting a good hour between ordering and being served. When my food still hasn’t arrived, I get up to leave, and the server comes running over, shouting “sorry, sorry.” I sit back down, and he brings the ginger pork with rice. The manager comes over and offers me dessert—caramelized banana—and apologizes for the delay due to a big group. After the meal, I ask for the bill. The waiter comes back and says the meal is on the house because of the inconvenience. I don’t agree, and the manager comes to talk to me. She speaks French and insists on giving it to me for free since I’ve been there several times, including tonight. I refuse, and after some back-and-forth, we agree that I’ll pay half the bill. She hopes to see me again if I come back to L.P.



On my way back, I cross the market again and buy a little parasol.

The hall is split in two, one side for the Chinese, and the other for tourists. The center is empty.

I’m falling off my chair 😮 Did you mean one side for Laotians, the other for tourists, or have they nationalized the station?

I'm falling off my chair 😮 Did you mean one side for Laotians, the other for tourists, or have they nationalized the station?

One side reserved for the Chinese The train and station must belong to China. They certainly built the station for their tourists. They build roads, bridges... they're invading Laos, as well as the Vietnamese, I think I heard...

Tonight, I’m dining at the « OH LALA » Restaurant

A nod to the French favorite expression of delight: "oh là là!" 😄

I’m heading to Bamboo for dinner. It’s packed tonight. I’ll have to wait a good hour between ordering and being served.

We found it a bit of a factory... Disappointed, we set our sights on Phonheuang Café, a small neighborhood spot where you have to wait your turn to eat because it’s so good and super cheap. Plus, it was smaller, more family-run, and in a really quiet corner.

The train and the station must belong to China. They definitely built the station for their tourists. They build roads, bridges... they’re invading Laos, as well as Vietnam, I think I heard.

... I also noticed that every restaurant offered chopsticks to eat with. But as far as I know, Cambodians eat with their fingers or with a spoon and fork.

In the south of the country, tourism is present but different. Westerners, backpackers, slow travelers... who blend in a bit better.