3 weeks in Laos, stress-free (page 2 of 5)

This morning we're leaving very early and boarding directly from the hotel dock. The light is really special this morning—it's misty, but it'll gradually clear up.



We're heading up the Nam Ou River. It's so peaceful and calm, and we spot a few fishermen along the way. We pass the large town of Muang Ngoi Kao (or Muang Ngoi Neua on Google Maps) and continue upstream. The vegetation is incredible.





The color contrasts are striking, depending on whether you're in the sun or shade, and the reflections are amazing.

We continue on to Sop Chèm, a lovely welcoming village. There’s a superb guesthouse there with a magnificent garden, flowers everywhere. If I ever needed a retreat, I’d definitely come here!













We then head back to Muang Ngoi Kao...





As I mentioned, it’s a large town and a key hub for connecting villages and transporting goods. The docks are constantly busy with long public boats loaded with passengers or cargo. There are plenty of guesthouses and restaurants catering to backpackers, as it’s the starting point for hikes through the countryside—just like we’re about to do. Some visitors stay here and go on day hikes, while others, like us, set off to spend two nights in a village and explore the area. For travelers with all their luggage, it’s possible to leave it in storage and just take the essentials for 2 or 3 days. We planned to have lunch there, on a terrace by the river. The menu was limited because all the cooks had gone to Nong Khiaw for the weddings—it was *the* event of the year!

After a light lunch, we set off to reach Ban Na and our guesthouse, less than a 2-hour walk away.

To be continued: Ban Na

So here we are, setting off with Viengkam for an easy hike, with a small backpack for 2 nights, along a dirt road. Once we pass the last houses, we venture into a lovely countryside—wooded hills to our left, a small river to our right, and fields beyond.

Along the way, we stop by a cave that served as shelter during the war. This gives Viengkam the chance to tell us about what Laotians call the “forgotten war.” Laos, which was home to many communists fighting alongside the Viet Cong, also suffered greatly: a rain of bombs fell on its soil, though less publicized than in Vietnam. A civil war broke out, pitting communists against the institutional monarchy established after independence, which was backed by Western powers. The Hmong ethnic group largely sided with the monarchy and the West. The communists ultimately won, leading to the exile of thousands of Hmong, some of whom took refuge in French Guiana, where the Hmong community is now very present. In total, nearly 500,000 people died—15 to 20% of the country’s population at the time. Even today, demining continues in areas where buried munitions pose a major threat to wildlife and farmers, especially children.

While discussing this war, we leave the forest and emerge into a vast agricultural area. These are rice fields—incidentally, “Ban Na,” the village we’re heading to, means “the village of the rice field.” At this time of year, it’s dry and yellow, but it must be stunning at the end of the rainy season!







The landscape is still charming! We cross the fields, passing numerous cows and buffaloes. A river hums and winds at the foot of the hills. We arrive in Ban Na. The first house belongs to Mama Kham, our host. Mama Kham is a 70-year-old woman and a real entrepreneur! She runs her guesthouse with a firm hand, helped by her daughter-in-law. Her son is the village chief (elected, like a mayor), and her husband, a former chief himself, is a shaman in this animist village.

The “common room” is a covered terrace where you can admire the view, lounge in hammocks, or chat with other guests. The beer isn’t very cold, but that’s normal since the public electricity grid doesn’t reach the village—everyone generates their own power using small turbines placed in the river. Every house has at least one of these turbines, which explains the wires running from the river to the village! One turbine is enough for lighting, but you need several for other appliances.



We immediately feel at home here. After a quick tour of the village, we settle onto the terrace: we watch the day fade and the cows and buffaloes leave the fields to return closer to the houses.











Tonight, the company will be lively. Among the guests we’ve met—mostly young Europeans (French, Italian, German)—I can’t resist introducing you to Margot and Louis, an extraordinary young couple. After saving up all their money for 3 years, they set off at the end of 2021 on a hitchhiking trip around the world: their rule is that they don’t pay for any transport (and they try to camp or get hosted as much as possible). They have an Instagram account that started as “onemap2bags” and is now called “Ziyouroam” (don’t ask me what it means), and I highly recommend checking it out. What interests them are the people they meet through hitchhiking (and cargo-hitching), and they create portraits of them. First, I must admit that with my well-established life as a 50-something, I initially looked at them with a bit of condescension, but I quickly changed my mind: they’re optimists and humanists, but not naive dreamers—they’re determined, resilient, courageous, extremely well-organized, and resourceful (to get a free ride on a cargo ship, you have to run a real marketing campaign). They know how to reach out to others and make connections, and they’ve learned to trust their intuition. I admire and respect them immensely. For Laos, Louis’s mom was traveling with them, backpack and all. Since we met, they’ve first switched to bicycles for their North American crossing since hitchhiking is banned in the U.S. Then they resumed hitchhiking in Mexico and completed their loop in early 2025, returning to Paris. Margot gave birth to a beautiful baby conceived during their trip… and they set off again in March 2026, this time with their little one, heading to China (Chongqing, Sichuan, and Guizhou), favoring trains this time. Their approach remains the same: being open to encounters, without judgment.

Last night, we had a beautiful storm. I was woken up by the gusts of wind before the squall, and then the rain started falling like a thick curtain... Luckily, the corrugated iron roof is holding up well—we're dry! The only thing is, with all that water coming down, I suddenly had an irresistible urge to pee. After waiting a long time, the rain finally calmed down, and I decided to grab the flashlight... I had to cross the muddy, slippery courtyard, nearly wiping out several times—okay, fine, that’s my biggest adventure ;) I’m really not on Margot and Louis’s level!

The next day, the sun was back. A mist enveloped the rice fields and hills—it was magical.







Everything had turned green overnight, and we set off for a walk with Viengkham, heading to a nearby village, feeling lighthearted.







The paths were a little (very) muddy, as were the fields we crossed... it was that lovely clay soil that sticks *perfectly* to your soles :)

We passed several people gathering frogs and snails ("Everything is edible. Ev-er-y-thing"). We also saw people in the rice fields with shovels or pickaxes, collecting rice field crabs ("Everything is edible. Ev-er-y-thing"). Tonight, the pots will be bubbling, and the smell of crab will be tickling our noses!



Our guide chatted with everyone we met. We had such a great time with him! He laughs a lot—with us, with the people he meets—I’ve already told you he has a knack for striking up conversations (which is what makes a good guide).

We stopped to watch men making a rifle: they carved a stock from a floorboard, attached a steel tube, then added a trigger mechanism they’d bought. A little further on, people were making machetes, and then we ran into a hunter returning with a wild rooster. Viengkham bought it from him—he’s going to give it to Mama Kham and her family. Maintaining good relationships is essential!

Tonight, the evening will be lively again—better not count the little glasses of law-law (rice alcohol) that went around! 😄 At the same time, it’s February, Dry January is over, and our mattresses aren’t far from the communal table anyway.

The next day, we leave Ban Na after breakfast.











A little chapter closes—I feel a pang in my heart and some regret that we can’t head farther north and spend more time in places like this. If we were backpackers with the freedom to change our plans, I think we would’ve decided to skip the south of the country. But spontaneity isn’t for us—it would give us cold sweats all the time, while for others, I get that it’s a thrill. The key is knowing yourself! We head to Muang Ngoi Kao to catch our boat and then the car to Luang Prabang. After retrieving our car in Nong Khiaw, we arrive in Luang Prabang by mid-afternoon, which lets us enjoy one last evening there. Tomorrow morning, we fly to Pakse. Next posts: the south, Champasak, the 4,000 Islands, and the Bolaven Plateau.

This northern part brought back some really nice memories (even though back then I did grumble a bit about the sky rarely being blue... but you forget! 😎) ... and a few regrets (the viewpoint over the Nam Ou wasn’t as high as the one we’d done, and that last stretch in a small village that seems really charming). Was your guide French-speaking or English-speaking?

On to the southern part now 🙂

Since we met, they first changed their mode of transportation, switching to cycling for their North American crossing since hitchhiking is banned in the USA. Then they resumed hitchhiking in Mexicobefore completing the loop in early 2025, returning to Paris. Margot gave birth to a beautiful baby conceived during their trip... and they set off again, with their little one, in March 2026, for China (Chongqing, Sichuan, and Guizhou), this time favoring the train. Their approach remains the same: being open to encounters, without judgment.

Respect! 😮

When traveling, you often meet unique people with extraordinary journeys. Some are committed to philosophical approaches, others travel the world backpacking with three young kids, and still others seek life projects aligned with their values... I admire them while sometimes feeling nostalgic for what I could have done or been without ever daring to take the leap... Maybe in another life, but who knows, I might be reincarnated as an object 😕

When traveling, you often meet unconventional people with extraordinary life paths.

I admire them, though I sometimes feel nostalgic for what I could have done or been.

There’s no age limit (as long as you’re healthy and have the financial means). Recently, I was reading the travel journal of a French retiree who travels solo—she gets around by public transport and often hitchhikes. For example, in Tajikistan and several other Central Asian countries, she did quite a bit of hitchhiking.

On Myatlas, I read the journal of another retiree who traveled by bike for several months, from Mexico to Colombia, passing through Guatemala, Nicaragua, and El Salvador. He nearly didn’t make it multiple times because in Central America, roads and traffic aren’t bike-friendly.

Still on Myatlas, you can read stories of other retirees exploring Africa in a converted truck (they visit non-touristy African countries that never come up in forums).

These journeys, which were once considered "unconventional" and "off the beaten path," are becoming more common today.

Otherwise, to meet and connect with locals, nothing beats taking public transport—but you still need to speak the local language if you want meaningful conversations.

Viengkham is French-speaking. I’m comfortable with English, but my husband is less so, so it makes things easier 🙂

On one hand, some aspects of backpacking—freedom to improvise and public transport—really appeal to me, and I think you can try it at any age. But on the other, my husband and I need to know where we’re sleeping (and not just the same evening), we enjoy a certain level of comfort (mixing up the styles), and up until now (I’m still working) we’ve had time constraints. I know we could try traveling a bit differently, but in countries like Laos, for example, it would take us twice as long. Then again, we could also choose to do less and take more time—definitely an option.

Everyone has to find their own balance...

For us, the compromise of independent couple travel with a guide and transport works well (since we can afford it). It gives us a lot of freedom of movement and choice, and it also helps us manage our energy (fatigue) because the unexpected is under control and travel is optimized... even if we lose a bit of spontaneity.

Discussions about travel styles are so interesting, especially when it’s judgment-free!

Pakse We arrived in Pakse and it's already really hot, even though it's only mid-morning...

First, we head to the village of Don Khor (Ban Don Khor), famous for its Buddha sculpture workshops, about 7 km from Pakse. These open-air workshops are always fascinating! Buddhas of all sizes—and made from all kinds of materials—take shape under the skilled hands of the workers. These aren’t plaster molds; they’re real sculptures, carved from natural stones (marble, sandstone, etc.) or blocks of reconstituted stone or composite materials.



As we walk through the neighborhood, moving from one workshop to another, we feel like we’re being watched... It’s Buddha, looking down at us from above the houses... This is the new large Buddha installed recently (2020) at Vat Chompet.



So, it makes sense that we continue our visit to Vat Chompet.

There aren’t many tourists around. At first glance, the site doesn’t look like much, but it’s a popular religious complex, and many devotees are present, crowding into the temples. The crowds will likely grow even more with the recent addition of this monumental Buddha! We go take a look at this gleaming 30-meter-tall Buddha.





It’s surrounded by a golden armada,





as well as large representations of the Buddhist bestiary.



The layout isn’t finished yet: you can see concrete columns standing, and a sort of walkway will probably be added. This will boost the monastery’s appeal, the number of pilgrims, and ultimately, donations.

We head toward the temples, where many devotees are gathered.





To be continued in the next post!

As long as we stay discreet, we can observe different rituals without drawing attention. Except for that little boy who stared at me for a long time... I must have seemed exotic or strange to him.









Anyway, it’s a detour we highly recommend if you get the chance.

We head to Pakse for lunch. Then we make our way to Vat Phousalao, which is up there on the other side of the Mekong: a large Buddha stands at the top of a hill. If you pass through Pakse, you can’t miss it!













We soak in the view of the Mekong, then, exhausted by the heat, decide to head back to the hotel to enjoy the pool.

Tomorrow, we’ve got a pretty long day ahead!

Restaurants: Daolin (great selection); if you fancy a change, why not try Italian? Dok Mai Lao Trattoria Italiana; for a rooftop: Paksé Hotel restaurant. Hotel: Le Jardin, a bit old-fashioned but pleasant and lush.

Champassak!



Alright, how about a little dip into history? First off, I should tell you that we love history, especially archaeological sites... So we’re really excited to discover Champassak and connect it with what we marveled at in Cambodia over 10 years ago.

The "mountain temple" ("Vat Phou") is a site that’s been occupied since the 5th century, and it’s the cradle of Khmer civilization. The few temples still standing (or that have been put back up by archaeologists—kudos and thank you!) date from the 11th and 12th centuries.

Today, it’s also a very important Buddhist sanctuary. Every year, a major pilgrimage takes place during the Makha Busa festival. And we arrive right after it! All the pilgrims have left, and an army of workers (mostly women) is busy collecting heaps of trash. Bags are being filled, but lots of small fires are burning too... In a few days, I suppose you won’t see anything, but "here and now," we have to make an effort to look past it all to enjoy the site. And we really have to get creative to take photos without plastic bags in them.











Let’s give a big shout-out to the patience of the archaeologists and their teams!



It’s a really beautiful site. A paved path leads up to the upper terraces, where the view is fantastic.



The blooming frangipani trees, with their sublime fragrance, complete the experience...

At the top of the stairs, more temples await,



To be continued...

Champassak, continued

The statues and bas-reliefs transport us to Angkor...

















One last look at this beautiful panorama before heading back down!

Leaving Champassak, we made a quick stop at this pagoda we’d spotted this morning, drawn in by the beautiful Buddha wedged between two trees, leaning back toward the road! This is Vat Sisumang.



The pagoda is simple, but the site is stunning and peaceful. A magnificent tree spreads its enormous branches. The view of the Mekong is gorgeous.





After a quick lunch, we took a ferry to cross the Mekong and head to the pre-Angkorian site of Vat Tomo, about forty kilometers away. The last few kilometers on a dirt track were un.be.liev.a.bly loooooooooooooooooong! The site, nestled in the forest under towering leafy trees, reminded us of some of the more remote temples near Angkor: a few standing wall sections and piles of stones overgrown with vines, hinting at past glories.









If you’re as into archaeology as we are, it’s worth the detour—but otherwise, you can skip it.

Next up: Si Phan Don, the "4,000 Islands."

Si Phan Don, archipelago on the Mekong...

Well, I don’t know if it happens to you too, but just saying "Mekong" transports me far away, like "Okavango", "Colorado", "Zambezi", "Nile", "Amazon"... and others... These legendary rivers, and all the myths and history they carry.

Just before the border with Cambodia, our old companion the Mekong splits into many branches, forming an archipelago made up of thousands of islands and islets.

The day before, we arrived on Don Khong Island to stay for 3 nights. It’s a good size for a river island that isn’t in a delta—16 km by 8 km—and it’s the largest in the archipelago. It’s far from being a touristy island, even though it has a few hotels and restaurants. Tourists tend to prefer Don Tet, so Don Khong has the advantage of being peaceful and keeping its authentic charm, which we’ll discover by exploring it by bike.

Today, a pirogue picks us up early at the hotel. We set off for about 1.5 hours of navigation, heading downstream on the Mekong. Along the banks and on the islets, nature becomes more and more lush—magnificent trees, exuberant palm trees. The roof of a pagoda occasionally stands out from the vegetation.

The 4000 Islands, continued...



We follow a small branch of the river to dock on Don Tet Island.



It’s definitely a tourist hotspot, with plenty of bars and guesthouses. We walk through the village on foot—at this early hour, it’s very quiet... lots of young European, Australian, or New Zealand tourists are still dozing in hammocks or stretching and yawning, some with a bowl of honey pops in hand—proof that the nights here are lively! And if there are any parents around, they’ve already gone for a walk.





After a bit of walking, we hop into a tuk-tuk. Vroom vroom—we’re hit with that familiar rush of power and speed every time we cut through the air in a tuk-tuk! We cross a bridge to reach Don Khone Island. Our destination: the Tad Somphamit waterfalls, also known as Li Phi or Lippi.





To get to the falls, we walk through a beautiful park—it’s a really pleasant stroll, and you can even come here for a picnic.



But the day is far from over. We get back in the tuk-tuk and head to the south of the island, to the "old French port." Another boat (a fisherman’s skiff) is waiting to take us exploring the waters of the Mekong around dozens of small, uninhabited islets.

We're basking in the sunshine, and the three dominant colors are the blue of the waters and sky, the yellow of the sand, and the green of the vegetation. It's magnificent.



We won’t see the freshwater dolphins... it seems the sound waves from a dam upstream on one of the Mekong’s branches have driven them further downstream, on the Cambodian side, but we’re enjoying this paradise-like landscape with its little coves lined with beaches.



We explore a small islet on foot, and we feel like we’re at the end of the world. We could easily stay here and have a fish grilled for us...



We return to the "old French port" on Don Khone, have lunch on the spot (a pleasant little guesthouse: Pomelo Guesthouse and restaurant)



then meet up with our boat from this morning







to drop us off a short distance away, on the neighboring island of Don Sadam, where our vehicle is waiting to take us to the famous Khone Phapheng Falls.

This site is also very pleasant. Shortly after entering, we walk through a wooded park and stop to see the trunk of the sacred Manikoth tree, kept safe in a display case under a pagoda dedicated to it.



This tree once stood on a rock in the middle of the falls until 2012, when it was uprooted by particularly fierce waters. Its uprooting had a huge impact in the country because, according to an epic poem adapted from the Ramayana, this tree was endowed with supernatural powers. After several failed attempts to recover it, it was finally lifted into the air by a helicopter and secured, then sheltered in a pagoda built for this purpose. Below, offerings in the shape of seven-headed Nagas, placed at the foot of the sacred tree’s trunk, are likely a reference to Muchalinda, the naga who saved Buddha from a sudden rise in water by emerging from the roots of the tree where Buddha was resting and protecting him in the coils of its body.



But let’s get to the falls: the waters roar, weaving between the rocks, creating rapids over 10 km with a total drop of 20 meters. They have one of the strongest flows in the world and are certainly the largest waterfalls in Southeast Asia by volume. It’s worth noting that the railway line built by the French was created to address the fact that Mekong navigation was inevitably interrupted at this point.



It’s not as spectacular as a massive vertical waterfall, but the power and noise are impressive—and this is the dry season!

We return by car to Don Khong Island. Viengkham says goodbye; he’s off to join another group that just arrived and will be guiding them for 10 days. We’re glad we got to know him—we had a great time together.

Pon Arena Hotel, pleasant, with two beautiful large infinity pools on the terrace by the Mekong. Hotel restaurant, plus two small nearby restaurants.

Today was a "chill" day on Don Khong Island. I set my alarm to catch the sunrise over the Mekong. It’s breathtaking and leaves us with a lasting sense of beauty, harmony, and peace... We breathe in the cool morning air, savoring the moment, grateful for the luck of being here.



We remember the sunrise on this same Mekong, 400 km to the south, in Kompong Cham, Cambodia,



and the sunset in the Mekong Delta in Vietnam, another 300 km further down...



After breakfast, we borrow bikes from the hotel and set off to explore. This isn’t a touristy island—it’s the "real deal." We stop everywhere, at the many pagodas and temples.











Kids on bikes wave at us, laughing—they must think we look exhausted, and honestly, even though it’s flat, we’re starting to feel the heat.



We watch this group of kids playing in the Mekong...



Alright, time to head back to the hotel and enjoy the gorgeous pools!

Tomorrow’s already our last stop: the Bolaven Plateau!

What I love is that just looking at the photos makes you feel more zen... 🙂