Peru: A childhood dream finally realized
Today, we planned to visit Cusco’s historic center with Willi, a dynamic young guide with a strong Québécois accent he picked up during his studies in Canada. He’s passionate, knowledgeable, and funny—exactly the kind of guide you love. A quick word about the city. Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire. Its name is traditionally interpreted as meaning "navel of the world" in Quechua. It boasts an extraordinary historical and cultural wealth, a blend of Inca and Spanish civilizations, with archaeological ruins and Hispanic architecture. This remarkable fusion earned it a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1983. The Plaza de Armas sits at the heart of the old city, with its arcades, colonial buildings, intricately carved wooden balconies, and sections of Inca-era walls. At its center stands a magnificent fountain topped with a bronze sculpture of Pachacútec, the ruler behind the expansion of the Inca Empire. The statue serves as a reminder of the Inca legacy. Surrounding the square are the imposing Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption and the Church of the Society of Jesus. Everywhere, Peruvian flags and Cusco’s multicolored flag flutter—so similar to the LGBT rainbow flag that you might mistake one for the other. But if you look closely, you’ll notice Cusco’s flag has seven colored stripes, while the LGBT rainbow flag has six. This June, Cusco celebrates the sun with Inti Raymi. Originating from Inca traditions, this festival was tied to the winter solstice in the Southern Hemisphere and honored Inti, the sun god, to ensure prosperity and good harvests. The modern celebration takes place every year on June 24th and marks the climax of a month-long festival in Cusco. Peruvians sing, dance, play music, and parade in vibrant processions. We’ll soak up this festive atmosphere throughout our stay in Cusco. That’s why the Plaza de Armas is always lively and often hard to access—numerous parades and events disrupt visits to religious sites. We’ll struggle, for example, to get into the cathedral. I’ll share more about these parades later—they’ll set the rhythm for all our days in Cusco. Next, we head to the Santo Domingo Convent.


It was built on the site of the Temple of the Sun, Qoricancha in Quechua. After the Spanish conquest, much of the Inca temple was dismantled, and its materials were reused to construct the convent and church on its foundations. Remnants of the Inca walls were uncovered after earthquakes. Spanish chroniclers described the temple as a sumptuous building with walls covered in gold plates, symbolizing the power and wealth of the Incas and the sacredness of the site.


Here, you can see the incredible precision and ingenuity of the Incas in constructing buildings that withstand earthquakes better. Willi explains their beliefs, astronomical knowledge, calendar, and symbols. It’s fascinating, even if you don’t remember everything. This place alone embodies the entire history of Cusco: the splendor of the Inca capital, the Spanish conquest, and the layering of two civilizations. To wrap up, we discover the beautiful exotic garden overlooking the city.


Willi then takes us to a site called "Kusicancha," an archaeological area in the heart of Cusco. It was once part of the Inca city, linked to a palace, and today appears as an open space surrounded by finely cut stone walls. Ongoing excavations have uncovered water channels, wells, inner courtyards, building foundations, and tombs. In one cavity, you can even see a mummy in the fetal position.



Next, we explore the San Blas neighborhood, with its shops, artisans, restaurants, market, and the famous Twelve-Angled Stone—a testament to the skill of Inca builders. The stone block was carved to fit perfectly with the surrounding stones, without mortar. It’s mind-blowing every time. Along the way, our guide explains the difference between Cusco’s many balconies. You’ll notice the closed, Andalusian-style balconies, a legacy of the Spanish era, designed for seeing without being seen, and the more recent open balconies, often featuring wrought iron. At the end of the tour—and at our request—Willi takes us to a typical Peruvian restaurant where we enjoy soup, a hearty meat dish with vegetables, and a drink—all for less than 5 € per person! He also gives us some sightseeing tips and recommends a few *picantarias*. Too bad he can’t join us for the next few days—he’s in high demand. The afternoon is already well underway. After a well-deserved nap, we set out to find a laundry. For 7 soles per kilo, we don’t hesitate to drop off all our dirty clothes. They’re returned to us 24 hours later, clean and neatly folded. We’ll take full advantage of this convenience and, for the first time, return from a trip with no dirty laundry! Tonight, we dine at a Japanese restaurant, Limo Peruano Nikkei, on the Plaza de Armas. We have the best sushi of our lives here. Plus, the service is worthy of a Michelin-starred restaurant. We’ll be back during our stay.










Inca structures, with the famous twelve-angled stone in the second photo

Saint Anthony Chapel on Plaza de las Nazarenas

An old balcony












Day 11 – Exploring the Southern Valley of Cusco




























Construction began under Pachacútec’s reign and continued under his successors, reportedly involving thousands of workers from across the Empire. The Spanish later dismantled much of it to reuse the stones for building Cusco, leaving only the largest blocks they couldn’t move.
Archaeologists still debate the site’s exact purpose: fortress or ceremonial space? Maybe both!
Our eyes are drawn to the three spectacular parallel walls zigzagging for about 600 meters. This layout likely served a defensive purpose, allowing defenders to attack from multiple angles. The walls are made of massive stone blocks—some over 9 meters tall, with the heaviest estimated at dozens of tons, even up to 100 tons. They fit together perfectly.

























































































































































































