Kyoto, Shinkansen, Tokyo: three first-timers in Japan via Air China (page 2 of 6)

I also boarded 😎 And another big thanks for these tips.

Hi Alain,

I love the tone of the narrative and the photos that illustrate it. It's fun, informative, and clear 🙂

I would’ve said pretty much the same things as Kate. So I’m happily following along with these Japanese (mis)adventures. Muriel

I'm loving reading your travel journal, it's so funny! 🙂 And that trick with the bill reminds me of our experience in Sri Lanka, where we were also surprised to see a beer arrive instead of the check! 🙂 It must be pretty common after all!! Your photos are really beautiful too!

I also boarded 😎 And another big thank you for these updates.

Welcome aboard! Hope you stick around till the end :)

Hi Alain

I love the tone of the narrative and the photos that illustrate it. It's fun, informative, and clear 🙂

I would’ve said pretty much the same things as Kate. So I’m happily following these Japanese (mis)adventures. Muriel

Hi Muriel, looking forward to reading your reactions.

I’m loving reading your travel journal—it’s so funny! 🙂 And that bill mix-up reminds me of our experience in Sri Lanka, where we also got a beer instead of the check! 🙂 Must be pretty common after all!!

Oh yeah, true! Do we know why the mix-up happened in Sri Lanka? Hope the beer was good at least (in Japan, it’s excellent).

Your photos are really beautiful!

Thanks! I’m putting in the effort to improve—results don’t always follow, but Japan really inspired me.

Hi Alain,

I was in Kyoto about two weeks ago, and it was truly amazing to see all those people. Hard to believe that 20 years ago, during my first visit, I’d rarely run into Westerners. And the few I did see were usually expats. To avoid the crowds, the best trick is to get there when the sites open. For Fushimi Inari, late afternoon with the setting sun is perfect—I was lucky enough not to have too many people around.

I think I’m finally figuring out what’s off: you pay for the ticket when you exit the bus

That makes sense since the price depends on the distance traveled (except for buses within Kyoto itself, which cost 230 ¥).

the beauties of Kyoto suffer from the same issue as Prague’s Old Town, Montmartre, or Venice

You can add Barcelona and New York to that list... I stopped going to Kyoto in 2014—there were just too many French people. At Kyoto Station, it felt like Gare Montparnasse. But I’ll go back one day, off-season.

A quick word on the travel journal. Well, I’m not learning anything new, but it’s well written, some reactions are amusing, and most importantly, the photos stand out.

Hi Alain, +1 I loved your travel journal about the USA—a country I know a little—and now I’m discovering Japan (well, part of it, let’s stay modest) through your amazing writing. Great job and thank you! Cheers,

Good evening Alain,

I was in Kyoto about two weeks ago, and it was indeed impressive to see all those people. It’s hard to believe that 20 years ago, during my first visit, I’d rarely come across Westerners. And the few I did see were often expats. To avoid the crowds, the best solution is to be there when the sites open. For Fushimi Inari, late in the day with the setting sun is amazing—I was lucky not to have too many people around.

Hi Eric,

Great idea. The late afternoon might be tricky with the time difference, but I like the suggestion. As for tourists, I didn’t just see Westerners—far from it. Lots of visitors from Asia, especially, I’d guess, from Indonesia or Malaysia, which explains the sign below:

I think I’m finally figuring out what’s off: you pay for the ticket when you exit the bus

That makes sense since the price depends on the distance traveled (except for buses within Kyoto itself, which cost 230 ¥).

It’s the same in France, yet we pay before the trip. There’s an aspect that goes beyond simple logic, in my opinion, and it comes down to how passengers are perceived: a matter of trust, respect for rules, behavior...

the beauties of Kyoto suffer from the same affliction as the Old Town of Prague, Montmartre, or Venice

You could add Barcelona and New York to that list...

Unfortunately, I could easily add a dozen more without even trying, and way more if I dug a little deeper.

I stopped going to Kyoto in 2014—there were just too many French people. At Kyoto Station, it felt like Gare Montparnasse. But I’ll go back one day, off-season.

A word on the travel journal. Well, I’m not learning anything new, but it’s well-written, some reactions are amusing, and most importantly, the photos stand out.

Well, that’s something at least. Thanks for reading.

Good evening Alain, +1 I loved your travel journal about the USA—a country I know a little—and now I’m discovering Japan (well, part of it, let’s stay modest) through your remarkable writing. Well done and thank you! Take care

It’s great to see you here, Jean-Pascal. Looking forward to reading more from you.

Gion at night

The way to school

The conveniences of modern life make discovering Kyoto very accessible for the passing visitor. The sense of strangeness when faced with a different civilization is softened by familiar landmarks: Wi-Fi is almost everywhere, and the transport network is made easier by the near-systematic use of English. Observing a few typical scenes—those we’d only heard about—adds to this vague sense of familiarity. After school

Take school kids, for example: they’re in uniforms and move in groups, boys on one side and girls on the other. The guys wear impeccable suits, white or pale blue shirts, and ties.

Hello Kitty !

The girls’ outfits are very modest, often with ties too (!) and pleated skirts that fall to the knee (just above for the boldest). Some wear sailor-style uniforms—not the kind from *Commander Cousteau*, mind you.

Neat rows

Secrets of the day Like their elders, students often wear masks covering their mouth and nose and carry translucent umbrellas. Asia in the subway

In the subway, female professionals in strict suits mingle with their male counterparts—or *salarymen*, as they’re called here—slumped with exhaustion. Like the students, they wear office suits, light-colored shirts, and ties.

Small deliveries

Anti-migraine?

The Imadegawa district, where we’re staying, is very quiet. Imadegawa



Common mode of transport

Horizontal ranking

...and vertical

This tranquility seems to extend to the rest of the city. Exploring the area around Kyoto’s massive station, one thing struck me: it almost feels like the countryside. Cars, even those with combustion engines, make almost no noise, honking is rare, and all traffic moves quietly. Pedestrian crossings are guided by bird songs—cuckoos, tits. The visually impaired are assisted by specific signals. So far, I haven’t seen any jostling in crowds of thousands of travelers.

A little corner of paradise

At sunset

This constant attention to making life easy—that is, eradicating, as much as possible, the minor hassles of everyday existence—might be a way to compensate for the extreme demands of school years or office work.

Kawaii elephants

Is there also a link to the *kawaii* trend? This pink tsunami touches every aspect of life here: at all hours, little stylized characters—bears, ducks, rabbits, ungulates, toothless creatures, monotremes, and other critters we thought had disappeared from our lives since *The Magic Roundabout*—encourage you in squeaky voices to sign up for insurance or devour some greenish candy on the spot.

Kawaii shop

Kawaii dwarf

Kawaii bookstore

Is it infantilizing and silly? Well, yeah, it’s *kawaii*. So are the sentimental stories that fill entire sections of bookstores. Maybe even the local taste for Tchaikovsky’s and Rachmaninoff’s lush outpourings, judging by the classical music section of a department store. I should’ve known—it was decorated with one of France’s most historically *kawaii* creations: the Barbapapa family. Barbapapa in the land of *Fulguropoing*

"There’s an aspect that goes beyond simple logic"

No, it’s because there’s an aspect that was overlooked: the presence of the fare-box and the change machine, which noisily exchanges coins, are positioned next to the driver. This way, the driver has full control over what happens in the vehicle and can ensure all passengers have safely disembarked. It’s also worth noting that on long-distance buses, there’s a box by the middle door where you take a ticket that shows your boarding section. This is compared with the illuminated board that displays the fare when you exit. We should also mention that this system exists on some local trains made up of single or double railcars (with only one accessible entry/exit point).

Not necessarily for long distances. All the local buses in Fukuoka, for example, have ticket vending machines (and pass kiosks) at the entrance. As far as I remember, other companies in Kyushu do too.

This morning...

... a good drink

... we come across a pensive young woman on public transport

and above all, we avoid getting pinched really hard.

Bamboo groves, monkeys, and temples. Arashiyama, west of Kyoto, brings together several facets of "mainstream Japan." The Togetsukyo, or "Moon Crossing Bridge," connects the Monkey Park to the shopping district. In the latter, nothing that might shock tourists: luxury boutiques, charming trinkets, and conventional restaurants. One curiosity—the bamboo root is perfectly edible. As for the taste, opinions are divided, but hey, it’s edible. Class photo near the Moon Crossing Bridge



The bamboo grove is a 15-minute walk from the bridge. It’s beautiful, filled with the secret charm that in this country elevates even the most natural things. Of course, it’d be much nicer without the crowds armed with selfie sticks.



Bamboo groves

Bird of prey gallery

On the way back to the bridge, a gallery invites visitors to pet owls. It’s a rare opportunity—after all, how often do you get to run your hand through the feathers of an owl, whether it’s small, medium, or large? But be careful, warns the attendant after pocketing a modest fee. You must present the back of your fingers, palm facing upward, at the level of the bird’s head, and gently stroke down its back. Got it! Otherwise? Otherwise, who knows. I didn’t try it—I couldn’t imagine explaining to a Japanese emergency room that I’d been attacked by a poorly petted little owl.

Big eyes

A round with a Great Horned Owl

It’s a pleasant experience—the birds let you pet them—but it’s punctuated by a little shiver when the raptor turns its head toward you and locks eyes with you. That’s the downside of not living in a Walt Disney or *kawaii* universe: a bird’s face remains forever expressionless, and to ward off the possibility of a violent reaction, the petter prefers to stop there.

Our animal friends

The monkey park, on the other side of the bridge, brings us back into the world of mammals. It’s not a zoo—the macaques are at home here, free to roam. A sign tells us no primate lives farther north than this. We reach their habitat after a 20-minute climb. The animals are indeed there, sprawled on the grass, lounging on tree branches, or grooming each other.

A task they’re well-suited for

The monkeys ignore the humans—after all, this is their home, and if they tolerate us, it’s because of the promise of effortless food. You *can* feed the primates with apples or peanuts, but only under strict rules: food is handed over through a wire mesh and under the watchful eyes of guides.

Essences

The descent back to the human world offers views of vibrant landscapes, which must be unforgettable in early autumn.

Before leaving Kyoto, a quick visit to the Yodobashi department store near the station. Electronics, household goods, and smart gadgets. A giant TV screen shows images of France, featuring a report on our dear old Transilien—probably the last thing you’d expect to see in a country so proud of its punctual transport. But I guess it’s exotic here.

An 8K TV to watch the Transilien

Nearby, a super-comfortable anti-stress bed seems to deliver on its promise, judging by the blissful sleep of a customer who came just to try it out.

Trial in progress

I tiptoe out of Yodobashi, careful not to disturb this perfectly contented man’s rest.

Librairie kawaii

The "yaoi" section (manga about romantic relationships between boys, a genre high school girls love) in a bookstore isn’t exactly kawaii... It’s more on the erotic side, sometimes even downright "hot."

(The covers leave little room for doubt, by the way.)

I’m following your travel journal closely, by the way.

Librairie kawaii

The "yaoi" section (manga about romantic relationships between boys, a genre high school girls love) in a bookstore isn’t exactly kawaii... It’s more on the erotic side, sometimes even outright "hot."

(The covers leave little room for doubt, by the way)

Ah, not being a fan myself, I can’t argue. My impression after flipping through was more like cotton-candy-pink stories, but I’ll defer to the experts on this one.

I’m following your travel journal closely, by the way.

Awesome, one more reader!

Hi Alain, Your travel journal brings back such great memories. I visited Japan for the first time in spring 2017. It’s so interesting to read your posts while you’re there. For me, an initial feeling—or maybe some preconceptions I brought with me —transformed over time into something even more positive after I got back, even though I already loved it while I was there. I feel like I brought back a hidden treasure that only fully revealed itself to me little by little and took on a life of its own. The way you tell your story and your photos are such a treat. Thank you so much! I’m really looking forward to what comes next. Maevita

Things seen in Kyoto before departure...

Surveillance?

More of those cubic vehicles

sometimes perched high up

Taking the subway

Recharging Suica

Underground shop

Ad... Catholic?

And an angel at school?

Passengers

Outdoors, we cherish nature

and the joy of passersby.