April 5, 2017 The airline Air Austral announces the signing of a memorandum of understanding with Air Madagascar!

Darn it, I’d switched from Air M**ad** to Austral to avoid any more hassles (back in 2015: stuck for 4 days at Ivato, compensation offered was 150 € to use on the next flight—I threw their letter back in their faces and vowed never to fly with them again).

Today, it’s ruined—Air Madagascar’s problems are already rubbing off on Air Austral.

April 26, 2017 Air Austral’s plane leaves Roissy nearly an hour late, even though passengers had been boarded for ages. The captain announces: technical issues with the plane that would be resolved quickly.

April 27 We arrive in Réunion over an hour late, only to learn that the plane supposed to take us to Tamatave—coming from Mauritius—had technical issues mid-flight and is now under review. They promise to update us by 11 AM, which was the original departure time. 11:30 AM, still nothing—we go ask for news, and nothing! By noon, they decide to give us a "royal sandwich" for 3 € and a soft drink. A little later, they finally tell us the flight is canceled and rescheduled for 7 AM the next day. Off to the hotels—some of us won’t eat that evening because not all hotels have restaurants.

April 28 Up at 4 AM to catch the 5 AM bus back to the airport. The same ATR that broke down the day before takes off 20 minutes late for Tamatave—a ten-minute flight over the Indian Ocean before turning right back to Réunion due to *more* technical issues. Back in the airport, no one to greet us. The hall is packed, and we have no idea where to go, so we head upstairs to squat in a private, air-conditioned lounge with leather chairs. There are about twenty of us, so they can’t kick us out and immediately notify Air Austral that we’ve taken over a service provider’s space. We stay there for about 2 hours, but no one from Air Austral dares to come in and update us. We go back downstairs to demand to see a company manager. In private, some staff tell us about Air Austral’s recurring issues—later, we’ll learn that another flight to Mauritius was also postponed until the evening.

After an hour of back-and-forth, someone finally decides to talk to us—it’s already 11 AM. They inform us that a spare part is arriving from Paris tomorrow and promise a 1:20 PM departure. We all stand together and demand a new plane because we’ve lost all trust. They respond that all options have been considered, but unfortunately, the ATRs from Air Madagascar and Air Mauritius are also grounded—how reassuring! (FYI, large planes can’t land on Tamatave’s runway.)

The manager’s only goal is to break us up because as a group, we’re a force they can’t handle. Orders must have been given because 7 or 8 Air Austral staff circle us, handing out hotel vouchers. Unfortunately, everyone’s only thinking about themselves, and they manage to split us up. So, back to the hotels for another night in Saint-Denis.

9 PM: new message—the flight is now pushed to 3 PM, and it keeps going… To be continued tomorrow!

I find Air Austral’s management behavior absolutely unacceptable and shameful! They’re playing fast and loose with their passengers’ lives.

Hi there, we’re planning a trip to Nosy Be next summer and we’ve come across Neos Air, which offers direct flights from Rome and Milan. It looks really appealing, but how reliable are they, especially in terms of punctuality—particularly for evening departures?

Hi everyone, I’m planning my trip to Madagascar for the fall and starting to think about getting my visa. After reading through different posts, I’m a bit unsure about the best way to go about it. Is it better to apply for an e-visa (and if so, which official website?) or just queue up on arrival? It seems there are "unofficial"—and therefore fraudulent—sites out there, and that you’ll have to queue either way (which I’m not thrilled about since I’m arriving at 11 PM). What do you think?

hey everyone,

I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.

Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?

Thanks in advance, Jérôme

I'm looking for anyone who knew the old Amporaha holiday camp (north of Nosy Be).

hi everyone, what's the cheapest flight ticket to fly from Paris to Madagascar in July or August? thanks for your help

Hi everyone, I’m heading to Madagascar in December 2025 and I’d like to know the one-way fare without checked baggage—just cabin luggage—from Tamatave/Toamasina to Saint-Denis on Réunion Island, please. Also, how many days a week are there connections, and how long does the trip take? Thanks!

I’d also like to know about the route between Réunion Island and Mauritius: where does it depart from, how much does it cost, and on which days are there connections? Thanks in advance!

Best regards,

Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport? Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?

Hi everyone. We’ve been feeling like there’s a big drop in activity on our forum... Probably due to the current situation... Have any of you canceled or postponed your upcoming trips? The forum is also facing competition from social media like Facebook and others, which play a big role in the political situation but are pretty limited when it comes to planning an individual trip. The mandatory ads for new members on the forum are also a major turn-off that should be removed. As for the current situation, I’m in Nosy Be, and there’s no problem here. I’d love to hear your thoughts on the future. I feel like this crisis is different this time and could lead to real change. Hope I’m not wrong! Thanks for your replies!

Hi, I'd like to know if there's a bush taxi from TAMATAVE TO NOSY-BE HELL VILLE (an island), and if so, which company should I take? Thanks in advance for your answers ;)

Over ten years ago, we took a cruise on the Costa ROMANTICA. Since then, we’ve never had the pleasure of finding another company for a cruise in the Indian Ocean with stops in Réunion, Mauritius, the Seychelles, and Madagascar. I recently discovered on this site that the German company AIDA offers the exact same cruise in December! But we don’t speak German and don’t know this company at all. Thanks if you can give us any insights about the ship *Stella* and the quality of their services

TRAVEL JOURNAL MADAGASCAR OCTOBER 2019

First of all, a big thank you to all the VoyageForum contributors who helped us plan our itinerary.

Introduction: There are three of us—a couple and a friend—all retired, aged 70. We spent four weeks in Madagascar, our first trip there, accompanied by a guide and a 4x4 driver-mechanic. We decided on the trip in June, and the process of requesting quotes, planning the itinerary, buying flight tickets, and applying for visas was quick. We finalized everything by the end of June.

Vehicle: The car was a Nissan Patrol, not new but well-maintained, and it served us perfectly. We had a few minor repairs—wheel bearings to change, a broken bull bar, and two flat tires throughout the trip. There was no air conditioning, so we drove with the windows open, which meant a bit of dust. In full sun, temperatures could reach 37/38°C.

Itinerary: The route started in Antananarivo upon arrival from the Air France flight from Roissy to Ivato and ended four weeks later at the same airport, passing through Antsirabe, Miandrivazo, the Tsiribihina River descent, Belo sur Tsiribihina, the Tsingy de Bemahara, the Avenue of the Baobabs, Morondava, Belo sur Mer, Morombe, Salary, Ifaty–Tulear, Ranohira, Fianarantsoa, the FCE train, Manakara, the Pangalanes Canal, Ranomafana, the Anja Reserve, and Ambositra.

Our local agency: The trip was organized with the help and logistical support of a local agency based in Antsirabe—a small, efficient, and enthusiastic team run by Élodie and her guide Manantsoa. If you'd like their contact details, feel free to message me directly. We have nothing but praise for them!

The roads: Travel was by 4x4 on rough, uneven tracks. We didn’t plan long stages to spare our backs, averaging a maximum of 5 to 6 hours per day. As for the RN7, the island’s most touristy road, there were no major issues. The Fianarantsoa Côte Est (FCE) train: This is the only train connecting Fianarantsoa to Manakara on the east coast. Taking it is an epic adventure—it takes an average of 17/18 hours to cover the 165 km between the two cities, passing through 17 stations, countless tunnels, and bridges. We left at 7 AM and arrived around 1:30 AM, but it was a direct way to connect with the local population at every stop. Even though we were comfortably seated in first class, we got a small glimpse of the harsh living conditions of the locals. One striking detail: on the last 80 km before Manakara, there wasn’t a single light—it was pitch black!

The Tsiribihina River descent: You can choose between a motorized barge or a rowed pirogue, depending on your comfort level. We opted for the motorized barge with a crew that included our guide, the captain, two sailors, and a cook. There was an upper deck for sunbathing and relaxing, and we slept in tents set up by the crew. The toilets were dry, and we showered with cold water from a waterfall—no complaints! The pirogue is more basic. It’s a slow, timeless journey along the river, with stunning landscapes, friendly locals, and diverse wildlife—lemurs, herons, birds of prey, kingfishers, and more.

Safety: The main safety concern on the roads is classic prevention—no flashy jewelry or visible valuables. In high-risk areas, vehicles travel in convoys escorted by the army, police, or gendarmerie. Elsewhere, our guide and driver handled "difficulties" like local "tolls," river crossings, and ferries with resourcefulness and calm. We never felt in danger during the four weeks, though we avoided driving or walking at night.

Accommodation: We chose mid-range hotels, always with private bathrooms and showers in the room. Sometimes there was no hot water, and water pressure was inconsistent, but that was city-wide, so we understood. In more touristy areas, the hotels were slightly better, though there’s still a long way to go to meet our standards! For the Tsiribihina descent, the crew set up a protected area for toilets and cold showers. We could even shower under the waterfall in the morning—cold and invigorating, but amazing!

Food: We ate well, whether it was European or Malagasy cuisine. The food was tasty and plentiful. The staple is rice—when imported from China or Myanmar, the quality isn’t always consistent. It’s served with everything. Zebu (beef) is good, and pork is less common but decent. Poultry isn’t raised in battery farms like at home; it’s free-range, tasty, but a bit tough. There’s a variety of vegetables, though we missed fresh fruit—it wasn’t the right season. Bananas and pineapples were abundant, with a few mangoes and oranges. On the coast, seafood was a treat—fish, shellfish, crabs, lobsters, sea cicadas, oysters, and more. Near Antananarivo, there’s a town called Behenjy specializing in foie gras, though in the heat, it’s not ideal for tasting. For local "hotely" restaurants (serving Malagasy food), it’s best to ask your guide to pick the best ones. As for tap water and raw vegetables, forget about them during your stay! We preferred to dine at the hotel to avoid nighttime outings, except in rare cases where a quality restaurant was nearby.

The people: It’s an understatement to say that Madagascar suffers from endemic poverty. In the cities, homeless people—men, women, children, even newborns—sleep on the streets or in makeshift shelters. The villages we passed through weren’t much better, and the remote ones we didn’t see are likely even worse. People lack everything—running water, electricity, schools, infrastructure—especially in the southern villages. Yet the land and rice fields seem to yield abundant harvests, and in desert areas, zebu farming is a way of life. The sea provides its riches—fish, lobsters, octopus, crabs, and more. Given the lack of education and income, begging is everywhere, a bit persistent but never aggressive. Bring as many things to give away as you can, and leave with empty hands—or rather, suitcases full of souvenirs! Let’s pay tribute to NGOs and religious institutions doing incredible work. On a personal level, we can only reflect, feel a bit of outrage, and act against this injustice. The Malagasy people don’t deserve this level of poverty. They’re also very religious—Catholic, Protestant, Adventist, Seventh-day Adventist, Jehovah’s Witness churches, and more, flourish across the island. In short, the people are welcoming, resigned, but so endearing and friendly!

Landscapes: The Tsingy, baobabs of all shapes and sizes—big, small, round, slender—the pristine beaches and Polynesian-like lagoons with deep blue waters between Tulear and Morombe, the rocks of the Isalo Massif reminiscent of the Wild West, the primary forests of Ranomafana, the red laterite landscapes of the Highlands dotted with villages, terraced rice fields, sunrises and sunsets on the east and west coasts, the views from the FCE train, the tranquility of the Pangalanes Canal (a bit like Kerala), the Vezo villages (nomads of the sea), the lagoon dotted with colorful square sails of Vezo fishermen—it’s all fantastic and varied!

Local transport: Overloaded bush taxis or trucks, zebu carts, rickshaws, tuk-tuks, and even carts pulled by people—it’s even more shocking!

Wildlife: The stars: - Lemurs—diurnal and nocturnal—there are so many to see, and you can spend hours watching them! - Chameleons—all shapes, sizes, and colors!

Climate: During our four weeks in September and October 2019 (we’d only been back for three days), we had just one day of rain. It was warm and pleasant everywhere during the trip. A light sweater for the evenings and waterproof clothing for rainy days are a good idea. Don’t forget sunglasses, swimsuits, sunscreen, mosquito repellent, malaria prophylaxis, flip-flops, hiking shoes for the parks, and all the usual essentials—nothing out of the ordinary!

Expenses: For half-board (breakfast and dinner), including transport (fuel), guide and driver, park entry fees, and local park guides, the cost was 2300 € per person for the four weeks. On top of that, you’ll need to add flight tickets, drinks, and lunch (around 5–10 € depending on your choices), as well as tips and personal expenses.

In short, we came back CHARMED.

Our thanks to ÉLODIE and MANANTSOA, as well as the drivers PAPOOSE and ROBERT.

Hi there, How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025. How many days should we stay to explore the area? What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island? What should we visit? Thanks everyone!

Hello, After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April. Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it. Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth. We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes. This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections. We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money. Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims. Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars. Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment. Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests. Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver. Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas. Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning. A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season. Meals were at little local eateries nearby. We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2). You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard. Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later. More amazing encounters here too. Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population. Stayed with a friend of our driver. Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality. Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night. La Chato... very expensive for what you get. I tried to keep it short. Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip. The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them. The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES. We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station. We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.

Hey Fellow Travelers,

I was caught off guard when the Malagasy consulate in Scandinavia informed me they don’t issue entry visas for Madagascar—what’s the point of a consulate, I wonder! They advised me to apply at the Malagasy embassy in London. So, I started filling out the online form, but the price for the visa made me do a double-take: nearly 200 €!

But apparently, you can also get it on arrival! Has anyone tried this before? I’d love to know if the process takes a long time (I’ll be landing in Nosy Be, exhausted after nearly 15 hours of travel), what the cost is, and—since corruption isn’t just a word—whether you absolutely have to grease the palm of the official(s). This is because I almost took the next flight back when I arrived in a country I won’t name. Even though all my documents were in order—passport, visa, vaccinations, hotel reservation—the immigration officer initially refused to stamp my passport. I later found out I was supposed to slip at least $10 into the document when presenting it... Thanks! /d

Hi, I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza. How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM? Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night. And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza? Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?

Thanks! !

It’s been 15 years since I last went to Sainte-Marie. I used to stay at the Hôtel Les Baleines—it was pretty basic, but I get the feeling things have improved since then. If anyone has good recommendations for hotels, rentals, scooters, or tuk-tuks, I’m all ears!

Hi there, following a work trip, I’ll have 4.5 days left to get a quick overview of Madagascar during the last week of February. I’ll already have had a good look around Tana (3 days of work and 1.5 days beforehand to see 1 or 2 points of interest 2-3 hours from Tana).

Is it feasible to spend the remaining 4.5 days like this:

- Day 1 & 2 (and maybe the morning of Day 3): relaxing on a coast with a pleasant climate, for example, a one-way flight to Tuléar (there’s a flight on Day 1 at 3 AM) and heading to a nice beach. Ideally, I’d have liked to go toward Morondava (baobabs, beautiful beaches near Belo), but the flight schedules don’t really work, and it wouldn’t let me visit Isalo.

- Then 2 days to head back up via the RN7, ideally with a stop in Isalo, which really appeals to me (I’m an experienced hiker in France), and/or Ranomafana. But do the weather conditions allow for long hikes in that area? Ideally, I’d like to do Tuléar–Tana by public transport up to my first road stop (shared bus? To Isalo?), then find a local hiking guide for the day. And take another transport to another point of interest before returning to Tana, where I have my return flight to France on Day 5 at noon.

My questions: - How to travel from Day 3 to Day 5 from the west coast (Tuléar? Morondava?) back to Tana? I’d prefer not to depend on a guide the whole way, but if I have to 🤷🏽‍♂️) If I choose Morondava, will I miss out on really interesting spots I could’ve seen along the RN7?

I’m open to any suggestions or ideas to make the most of these 4.5 days, like another beach destination I might not have considered (I ruled out Nosy Bé because of the February weather—maybe I was wrong?)

Hello,

I’m an agronomy student specializing in tropical regions, and I need to do my 4-month internship near Tuléar. However, I only found out about it yesterday, and I’m supposed to leave on September 16th. I’ve never done this kind of trip before—neither alone nor with someone else. So, I’m a little lost and, um… panicking! I also need to transport valuable equipment that doesn’t take up too much space!

I’m not sure how to get between the two cities, Antananarivo and Tuléar. I plan to carry my luggage in an 80L hiking backpack to avoid drawing attention in Antananarivo.

Has anyone taken a *taxi-brousse* on this route before? How much time should I allow between the two cities, and what budget should I plan for this trip? Where can I find *taxis-brousses* (TB) in Antananarivo?

Any info will be helpful and reassuring! Thanks!

PS: What do you think about safety in Tuléar?

Hi everyone, I’m planning a third trip to Madagascar in 2026. This time, heading north and then part of the west coast before going back up. The question I’m asking myself—same as during our first visits—is Nosy Be or not? Of course, the photos show stunning beaches, and when you mention Madagascar, almost everyone says Nosy Be or at least has heard of it. That’s actually why we didn’t include it in our itineraries before, especially since we’d already seen paradise-like beaches in the south, and we had them all to ourselves because they were hard to reach. On the other hand, I’ve always been drawn to Île Sainte-Marie, but from the north, you have to go back down to Tana, which I’m okay with in principle. So, what’s your take? Nosy Be and its surroundings—what do you think? Just tourists looking to party? Thanks

First trip to Madagascar (couple + 2 older teens). We’ve read quite a few posts and watched traveler videos, which helped us figure out what we could do in 3 weeks. We’d like to travel with a driver-guide. You’ll probably be able to help us with the overall duration... Are we being too ambitious, or is this reasonable? In this itinerary, are there any must-see places we shouldn’t miss? Here’s our first draft:

Departure from Tana to the east via the RN2. Stop at the Analamazoatra Reserve RN11 to reach the Pangalanes Canal 3 or 4 days to travel south along the canal (taxi boat) The train from Manakara to Fiana RN7 toward Tulear Time for a short trek in Andringitra? I’m not sure... Isalo Park From Tulear, head north or south by pirogue to relax somewhere To get back to Tana and stay within our vacation time, I think we’ll need to fly... Will we have time left for Ampefy?

What do you think?

Saturday, September 28, 2019

On the Orly-Saint-Denis flight, under the pretext that Air France had paired their delicious chicken with mushrooms meal with a little bottle of rum, Dom noticed that some passengers hadn’t even opened theirs. So he bribed a flight attendant to bring him the abandoned mini bottles! Needless to say, the guy slept like a baby!



Sunday, September 29, 2019 Saint-Pierre

A flawless journey (well, except for a minor distraction in the massive Hertz queue that led me to cut in front of a few young couples, who weren’t too happy about it—though I joked with the agent about it: *"It happens!"*). We ended up at Hôtel Le Battant des Lames in Saint-Pierre, a gorgeous combo of an infinity pool and the Indian Ocean. We rushed straight into the pool—after over ten hours of sitting on a plane, it felt *amazing*!



We didn’t waste any time—you know Dom—exploring the city on foot. It’s lovely: the seaside is well-developed, it’s tropical, but with the budget of a wealthy country.



Réunion is also famous for its killer sharks…



A Creole music group was playing at a seaside bar, so we settled in.



Night fell, and with it, swarms of insects suddenly invaded the city!



One of the few signs of the tropics here! Insects, geckos, and cockroaches...



Monday, September 30, 2019

Saint-Pierre



We were disappointed, of course! We could’ve gotten a photo of our *aura* and missed the chance by just a week! In tears, we decided to tackle the island’s most famous site.

Excursion to Piton de la Fournaise. The plan was to head to one of the nearby parking lots and take a relaxed stroll. But it quickly turned into… something else.

First, I realized the built-in GPS operates on a pretty basic algorithm—like the earliest models. If there’s a bumpy road that even the toughest Mitsubishi 4x4 struggles with, a path through a junkyard, or any shortcut to save a few meters, it’ll proudly suggest it. So instead of taking the main road—the royal route to the famous volcano—we ended up on charming little mountain roads…

Hi everyone, I’d like to know if it’s possible to travel only by taxi in Madagascar? ... My friend and I are going. Our trip starts in Antananarivo and goes to Antalaha. We’ll be heading up the east coast. Are taxi stations available in every city? Do we need to book in advance? Or would you recommend renting a car locally instead? ...

We really need some help and hope you can give us advice soon ...

Thanks ...

I contacted several agencies in Madagascar to arrange this 4x4 trip along the coast. Always the same answer: a tailor-made trip with at least 2 participants. Since I don’t want to travel alone and a friend isn’t available, I’m looking for a woman to share this trip with the agency Mahay Mada, which offers a 12-day, 11-night tour of southern Madagascar. I’m available from August 23 to September 14. Thanks for your direct response at 0784659791. See you soon, Mireille

Hello, My partner, who is Malagasy, would like to visit France (ideally in mid-August) and therefore apply for a short-stay visa (90 days). I’ve heard that many applications are refused even when all the required documents are submitted, which is why I’m here—to get advice and guidance to be "almost" sure the application will be accepted. I have a lot of questions, and your help would be invaluable to us.

She is 27 years old, has a passport with her current occupation listed as self-employed (she owns a "taxi-brousse" truck) and thus has a statistical card, a business license, and annual tax certificates. She started her business at the beginning of this year.

As for me, I am an adult with a disability. I receive disability benefits until May 2026. I’m in the process of professional reintegration and will start a job in a few days, likely on a fixed-term contract (CDD).

Here are my questions about the supporting documents to provide:

-Purpose of the trip/stay

Flight ticket reservation (round-trip) (the ticket should only be purchased once the visa is approved). Letter of commitment to return, written on plain paper. Any other document demonstrating potential family, economic, or material ties in the country of residence. Confirmation of a booked organized trip or any other document outlining the planned itinerary.

I’ve been told that for the flight reservation, my partner just needs to go to Air Madagascar in Antananarivo and pay around 50,000 ariary to get this reservation. Given that the French short-stay visa takes between 15 to 45 days (I might be wrong) to be processed and approved, I wonder if the reservation will still be valid if the visa is approved late. For the letter of commitment to return, I assume two sentences are enough, and what matters most are the documents proving ties to the country of residence (her economic activity). Do you think that will be sufficient? And for the planned itinerary, since this isn’t an organized trip, what document could work? A handwritten letter explaining a few planned visits?

-Proof of residence in the country of origin

For employees: original work certificate, original leave certificate, last 3 payslips (or bank statements). For retirees: pensioner’s card and last 3 pension statements. For traders or entrepreneurs: professional registration, professional card, and recent bank statements.

For liberal professions: professional registration, professional card, and recent bank statements. For unemployed applicants and students: sponsorship letter and copies of the sponsor’s financial documents.

For this point, she can justify her self-employed status with the statistical card, business license, and annual tax certificates. As for bank statements, she deposits her earnings in cash into her bank account—will this be an issue during the application review?

-Financial resources

Bank account statements (last 3 months). Last 3 payslips or pension statements. Foreign currency allocation certificate, whose origin must be demonstrated (recent bank statement, savings account), issued by local banks or exchange offices (minimum 32.50 € per day if staying with a private individual or 65 € per day if staying in a hotel) or presentation of an international bank card with supporting account statement.

I need help with this point because I don’t fully understand what she needs to provide as a self-employed individual, especially since she doesn’t earn 32.50 € per day. I can obviously transfer money to cover this. So, overall, what documents should be provided for this section?

-Accommodation

Confirmed hotel reservation with the hotel’s phone number and reservation number / payment confirmation for stays longer than 1 month or original hosting attestation.

For this point, do I just need to write a handwritten letter stating that I will be hosting her? Then scan it and email it to her? Is that all?

-Travel medical insurance

Insurance certificate: must specify the amount and scope of coverage (30,000 € coverage / medical expenses and repatriation).

For this, I’ll opt for AXA Schengen insurance (low-cost). Any advice is still welcome...

I have one last question about the following point:

The short-stay visa allows you to stay for a maximum of 90 days for a continuous stay or multiple stays within the Schengen area over a 180-day period.

If we decide to leave the Schengen area during the stay (to visit the United Kingdom, for example), will the 90-day visa be paused and resume once we return to the Schengen area? And if so, can we plan a return ticket beyond the 3 months by justifying an exit/entry?

Thank you in advance for all your advice and suggestions. I may have forgotten some important points—feel free to let me know.

Best regards.

Hi everyone.

My partner, our daughter, and I are planning a walking trip to Madagascar in July-August 2027. We’d love any tips or info you can share about this plan. Which regions should we prioritize? Is a local guide better than a well-established agency? Where’s the best place to buy our flight tickets from Réunion? Thanks for your input!

Hi there,

My wife is from Madagascar (we currently live in France), and she wants to move back permanently. Can we buy a one-way ticket for her flight?

Looking forward to your reply, Eric

Hi there, We’re planning our trip and want to spend 3 MONTHS in Madagascar, but we’re getting really conflicting info about visas. Apparently, it’s not possible to get one at the airport. We contacted the consulate in Marseille… and they don’t know either. The phone number for the embassy in Paris is no longer in service… Anyway… help! If anyone’s gotten a 3-month visa, could you shed some light on this for us? Thanks so much.

Hi everyone.

We’ve just returned from a trip with our 8- and 12-year-old sons, our eyes full of memories. We went to Analalava, a village that’s hard to reach by dirt road in the dry season and impossible during the rainy season. The upside is that there are few motorized vehicles—it’s really off the beaten path. Located at the mouth of a huge river, you have to travel 60 km by speedboat from Antsohihy to get there. This was our first trip of this kind as a family—pretty adventurous, with plenty of questions and even some worries from my wife (bugs, safety, amenities, etc.). We joined a friend who’s staying there, so we weren’t completely in the dark. I’ll give you the highlights without going into too much detail. After arriving in Tana, we spent the night at a "high-end" hotel (La Ribaudière) for 56 € a night in a mini-suite with all the European comforts, then we left early the next morning. We decided to hire a car and a guide for the trip from Tana, with a stop at Ankarafantsika Park. The guide accompanied us all the way to Antsohihy. Leaving Tana, we got our first shock driving through the city, then we crossed stunning high plateaus toward Majunga (RN4). We zigzagged between potholes, zebu-drawn carts, broken-down trucks, and *taxi-brousses*. We passed through countless villages, honking all the way—pedestrians just have to watch out. Rice fields and tropical greenery filled every valley, water didn’t seem scarce. Then came the savanna and bushfires everywhere! After a full day of travel and a few stops, we arrived in Andranofasika, the village at the park entrance. We thought the agency (Look Gazy) had booked us a room at the Blue Lodge, but there was a mix-up—no reservation, no space. So we headed to the park, which has about ten bungalows. It was amazing: right in the jungle with all the ambient sounds. Geckos in the room became our friends, frogs in the toilet, and HUGE spiders under the terrace roof—they didn’t budge. Comfort was still there, though. We did three park circuits in one day with a guide. It’s a bit pricey, but it’s an excellent introduction. We saw lemurs (makis), birds, snakes, crocodiles, and fishing eagles—maybe we were just lucky! On the third day, we headed to Antsohihy through more savanna and bushfires. The town was lively, but the Hotel Anaïs was a serious downgrade! Loud music late into the night, then dogs barking and howling for the rest of it. Bucket showers and squat toilets. The guide left us here. - Quick tip: guides charge by the day, excluding fuel, and the empty return trip is on you. When I got the quote, they offered 3 days of guiding, 2 days of return trips (about 700 km), plus fuel for 600 €! I turned it down—it wasn’t worth it. By the day plus fuel, it cost us 400 €. The next day, we took the speedboat (I’d call it an uncomfortable, noisy, slow raft!) for the 60 km river trip through the mangroves. - Tip: bring an umbrella to shield yourself from the sun, and maybe use your airplane earplugs! It was a long, peaceful river—absolutely stunning. We were diving even deeper into the African vibe. We arrived in Analalava at dusk. The sunsets over the nearby islands were incredible. It was 6:30 PM—back home, it stays light until 10 PM, so we’d have to get up early to make the most of the days. Here, it’s winter: "almost cool" at night (20–22°C) and 30–32°C in the shade during the day. A friend found us a bungalow to rent next to his (which he rents year-round). It’s solidly built with a palm-leaf roof, sheltered by huge mango trees. The bucket-and-squat toilets are outside, electricity comes and goes (when the neighborhood isn’t blacked out), and the view of the sea and islands is breathtaking (15,000 Ariary/day). Sometimes, the last pair of sifakas (that weren’t eaten 😕) passes by! A woman comes every day to fill the water bucket from the well and takes any laundry we want washed—for a few Ariary. It’s her livelihood, and she’s happy to have the work, though I feel bad seeing her make endless trips with buckets on her head. She charges 100 Ars per bucket or per piece of laundry. And there we were, deep in Africa, 8,000 km from our comfort zone. Surrounded by chickens, ducks, goats, and zebus roaming semi-freely. My wife was a bit overwhelmed by the "bathroom" at first, but she got used to it. The plan: *mora mora* (take it easy), fishing, walks around Analalava, island expeditions, and—most importantly to me—the Bay of Morambe. My friend on-site just got his own pirogue, built locally with an outboard motor—total luxury! He’s a great hunter-fisherman, so we ate amazing, ultra-fresh seafood during our stay, expertly prepared by his partner. But the pirogue that was supposed to take us to the islands (Nosy Lava, Ilane, and Fao) came with challenges. Though it’s called *Freedom*, it wasn’t that simple. July is windy—the *Varataz* (trade winds) blows every morning and usually shifts in the afternoon. Pirogues without keels can’t sail against the wind and don’t handle strong gusts well. You can’t reef the sail, and there’s a risk of capsizing despite the float—it’s intense. A local joined us to sail, and we waited for the right day. Fishermen weren’t going out because the wind was strong and didn’t shift. Then one morning, after a windless night, we set off for Ilane—a tiny island with coconut trees and fine sand, like playing *Survivor*. We ate the day’s catch and coconuts; the kids were in heaven, and so were we. :) Though small, you can walk around the island in 20 minutes. It’s home to fishermen and littered with turtle skeletons :( The return was more chaotic—like boat people at 4 AM in the waves before the strong wind picked up. We took the shortest route to shore and then hugged the coast with the motor. I wasn’t feeling great about it! For Morambe, we negotiated a private speedboat (350,000 Ars/day + fuel). A full day’s navigation to get there—paradise, no other word for it. I hope it stays that way! I won’t say more. Getting there is an adventure in itself! Originally, I just wanted to cross the Bay of Narinda by boat and reach Morambe on foot by crossing the peninsula, but the return wasn’t guaranteed. There’s little info about the place, and we didn’t know what to expect. After two or three weeks soaking in the vibe, we were ready for the Malagasy return trip. We’d taken the speedboat too many times and wanted to leave Analalava by 4x4—some people make the trip to Antsohihy, but it’s not regular. No luck: the 4x4 was stuck in Antsohihy the day we left. So we took the speedboat again, then hopped straight onto a night *taxi-brousse* to Tana, leaving a buffer day just in case. The trip went smoothly, with music and a screen playing music videos all night—you just have to deal with it! We arrived in Tana without any issues and had a day to explore the Analakelly market and buy some souvenirs. My wife splurged on a beautiful piece of Malagasy stone jewelry on Jewelry Street, right near the hotel (still La Ribaudière). She blew the budget! Finally, a taxi took us to the airport, taking shortcuts to avoid traffic and giving us a mini tour for a good price: 40,000 Ars. We left him a bag of clothes. This trip will leave us with unforgettable memories—and a few frustrations. We couldn’t enjoy the marine life because the water was murky from the constant wind during our stay—*maloutre*, as they say, even at Morambe and the islands. The failed 4x4 return was a bummer, too. We also wanted to do a big hike on the Narinda Peninsula, but it would’ve required more prep. Otherwise, no mosquito issues (fewer than in France!), no major digestive problems or other ailments. Safety? Didn’t see any issues, and we didn’t take unnecessary risks. We’ve set the bar high for our next trips!

During these three big weeks in Madagascar, one week in Sainte Marie, a few days for a little loop in the west/south, and the rest in Tana. This loop I’m talking about covers an area I’d never taken the time to visit before. A recent road in good condition, the chance to pass through beautiful highland landscapes, and a few free days made it the perfect opportunity. Destination: Ampefy, west of Tana via the RN1, then a turn south onto the recently rehabilitated RN43 to reach Antsirabe before heading back to Tana. Four days planned—perfect, since an extra day wouldn’t have been a problem given all the activities in Ampefy.

First day: a relaxed and fairly late departure for Ampefy. We weren’t in a rush and took our time. Traffic leaving Tana to get back on the RN1 cost us the head start we had on our original schedule. An hour and a half bumper-to-bumper with the *buxis*, inching painfully toward the roundabout and then the bridge that acts as a bottleneck—we dove in like all our fellow sufferers. It’s not our everyday reality, and we were early, so no big deal, but man, it’s long and slow. Once past that obstacle, traffic flowed smoothly, and the road was good (all the way to Ampefy). We moved through highland landscapes, bustling villages full of activity, and countless agricultural supply shops—clear proof, if any were needed, that we were crossing a prime farming region. Around Arivonimamo, we passed through a forest with a Mediterranean vibe: a single-species forest of stout little trees with glossy, elongated light-green leaves—these are *tapia*. An endemic tree in Madagascar, and a pretty unique forest as a result (you can see them elsewhere, like between Antsirabe and Ambositra). There are efforts to protect it from illegal logging because the wood is fire-resistant, which helps shield the forest from wildfires. Beyond its biodiversity value, the *tapia* hosts silkworms, giving it economic and cultural importance.

As we kept going, we started spotting a lake and mountains with the rounded shapes typical of extinct volcanoes worn down by time and the elements. We were approaching Lake Itasy and, by extension, Ampefy. We stopped at a *hotely* for a plate of *tongon’kisoa*—pig’s trotters caramelized by cooking, with thick, flavorful skin—along with the obligatory portion of rice, which we took the time to drizzle with cooking juices to make it a bit more appetizing. Full, we turned left to reach Ampefy and our hotel. The landscape was dotted with collapsed, dormant volcanic cones, and suddenly, the view opened up onto the lake. Shallow and expansive, we followed it, losing sight of it now and then before finding it again in Ampefy itself, which we entered after crossing the Lily, a beautiful river that drains the lake. Lots of hotels and restaurants, with plenty of options at all price points. We chose the *Farihy*, about 5 km past Ampefy. A gorgeous spot by the lake, with a pool and lovely bungalows—some with picture windows overlooking the lake. Really nice. In the evening, a drink and some *sak sak* for aperitif on the terrace. It wasn’t warm, there was a lot of wind, and a storm was brewing. Off to bed quickly to start the next day’s visits.

After buying some lychees—we hadn’t seen many this year, and these were fresh from the field, picked in Ampefy—we headed to the Lily Falls. Well signposted, with a paved road in great condition, we stopped at the kiosk for the entrance fee and parking (1 euro for one *vahiny* and 10 cents for one Malagasy). We set off down the path and quickly reached the first waterfall, then continued for maybe 1 km on a well-marked trail to the second. A guide led us to the third, which is harder to spot and isn’t actually on the Lily itself. Beautiful countryside scenery: fishermen straight out of *Tom Sawyer*, straw hats on their heads, lying down with one foot hooked to a fragile bamboo rod, their line dipping into the calm river. Men preparing rice paddies with their *angady*, women transplanting rice, bent over the water. At some points, we walked along the dikes between paddies almost ready for harvest. It’s peaceful and beautiful when you’re strolling or fishing, but working the paddies is grueling, especially under that beating sun. A really nice walk—2 hours and a bit, going at a leisurely pace. A guide isn’t mandatory; only the entrance fee is. We took one because it provides a bit of work and puts money in the hands of locals, giving them more incentive to protect the site. But you can easily skip it, like most people do. Lots of visitors since it was the weekend—Tananarivians with family or groups of young people, scout groups organized under their chaperones’ direction. Very few foreign tourists, though—that’s a general observation. It’s great to see this growth in domestic tourism, giving Malagasy people the chance to discover their own country and allowing those in the sector to rely less on foreign visitors, who’ve been scarce for years.

Next, we headed to the "geysers" (which aren’t actually geysers, but whatever). We had to go back to the RN1, head toward Tsiroanomandidy, and a few kilometers later, a well-marked sign and a newly paved track led us to a pretty site. Again, lots of people, another kiosk, more fees to pay, and guides available. This time, we skipped the guide. A downpour caught us in front of the "geysers," so we took shelter under a little shop, grabbing an ice cream and some drinks. We didn’t stay long—we weren’t interested in a massage or a dip in the thermal water. The countryside and barren mountain landscapes were stunning on the way back to the hotel. We noticed you could go paragliding right in front of the bungalow, so we booked a session for the next morning. After eating at the *Auberge* in the town center (it was good), we headed back to the hotel to turn in early. Once again, a storm rolled in during the afternoon, and the temperature dropped significantly.

The next morning, around 8 a.m., we walked to the takeoff zone near the hotel. Towed by a small boat, we took off for a flight over the lake and the volcanic domes before landing back at the same spot. Two companies handle this. I’m no expert, but it seemed safe and well-organized.

To be continued...